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THRONES  AND  PALACES 


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BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH 


FROM  SEA  TO  SEA 


A   THOUSAND  MILES  ON  HORSEBACK 


"Look  ye  !  inasU'i-  traveller,  unless  ye  note  something  worth  the  seeing,  and  come 
home  wiser  than  ye  went,  I  would  not  give  a  stag's  horn  for  all  your  travels." 

Old  riatj. 

Bv  JOHN   P.  NEWMAN   D.D.   "^ 

MEMBEK   OF   THE    LONDON   SOCIETY   OF   BIBLICAL   ARCHEOLOGY 


N  E  W    Y  O  \\  K 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS 

FRANKLIN      SQUARE 

1S76 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  IST;"),  by 

Harper    &    Brothkus, 

In  the  OflBce  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Wasliington. 


inscription. 


TO  HEK  WHO  WAS  THE  CHOICE  OF  MY  YOUTH,  WHO  IS  THE  JOY  OF  MY 
MANHOOD,  WHO  ACCOMPANIED  ME   IN   MY   TOUE   AROUND   THE 
WORLD,  WHOSE  LOVE  OF  THE  BEAUTIFUL,  APPRECIATION 
OF  THE  ANTIQUE,  AND  ENTHUSIASM  IN  EXPLO- 
RATION WERE  TO   ME  A  PERPETUAL 
INSPIRATION,  THIS  VOLUME 
IS  AFFECTIONATELY 
INSCRIBED. 

JOHN  P.  NEWMAN. 

Washington,  D.  C,  October  5,  1875. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Up  the  Persian  Gulf.— Brilliant  Anticipations.— Memorable  Historic  Lands. 
— Preparations  for  the  Journey. —  Our  Party. —  Steamer  Burmah. — En- 
glish Travelers. — Pilgrims  to  the  Shrine  of  Dwaka. — Kurrachee. — Its 
History  and  Commerce. —  Civilizations  Compared. — Worshiping  Alliga- 
tors.—  Oriental  Gamblers.— Looking  for  a  Harbor.— Guadur.— Appear- 
ance and  History  of  Muscat.— Its  King  and  his  Kingdom.— Delicious 
Dates.— Ornamented  Women.— Reign  and  Forts  of  the  Portuguese.— 
Terrible  Massacre.  — Sunset  at  Sea.  — Arabian  and  Persian  Mountains. 
—Persian  Gulf  Described.— Bunder  Abbas.— Portuguese  and  Ormuz.— 
Fire -worshipers. — Islands  in  the  Persian  Gulf — Kishra  and  Larrack. 
— Lingah. — Pearl-divers  of  Bahrein.— Pearl-fisheries.— Costly  Pearls.— 
A  Sea  of  Blood.— Bushire.— Tragic  Scenes.- England's  Lion  Share.- 
Ancient  and  Modern  Persia. —  Brilliant  Phosphorescent  Display.— Slow- 
ness of  the  Orientals.— Dreadful  Storm.— Farewell  to  the  Persian  Gulf 
— Great  Shaat-el-Arab. — Beautiful  River  Scenery. —  Sheikh  of  Mahome- 
rah. — First  Stage  of  our  Journey  Ended. —  Commerce  of  Busrah. — En- 
chanting Rivulet.  —  Busrah.  —  Home  of  Sindbad  the  Sailor.  —  Ancient 
Ruins. — Garden  of  Eden : Page  17 

CHAPTER   II. 

Historic  Lands. — Anticipations  and  Emotions. — Steamer  Citij  of  London. — 
The  Three  Great  Rivers. — Confluence  of  the  Tigris  and  of  the  Euphrates. 
— Steaming  up  tlie  Shaat-el-Arab. — Tlie  Floods  Prevail. — Shepherds  and 
their  Flocks. — The  Garden  of  Eden. — Its  Appearance.  —Inhabitants  and 
History. — Sail  up  the  Tigris. — Wild  Boars  of  the  Forest. — Daring  and 
Successful  Lion-hunt. — Tomb  of  the  Prophet  Ezra. — Scenes  on  the  Banks 
of  the  Tigris. — Grand  Mountains. — Arab  Villages. — Ruins  of  Ancient  Se- 
leucia  and  Ctesiphon. — First  View  of  Bagdad. — Guests  of  Captain  Hol- 
land.— Wonders  of  Bagdad. — The  People,  Bazaars,  Mosques,  Churches, 
Tombs,  Baths,  Jews,  and  Christians  of  the  City  of  "The  Thousand  and 
One  Nights." — Turkish  Raih-oads. — Commerce  with  tlie  United  States. — 
American  Petroleum  the  Light  of  the  World G3 


1 2  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  III. 

Five  Days  among  the  Ruins  of  Ancient  Babylon.— Preparations  for  the 
Journey. — Early  Start. — Bridge  of  Boats. — Crowd  of  People. — Celebrated 
Tombs. — Raising  Water. — Luncheon  by  the  Way-side. — First  View  of  the 
Ancient  Ruins. — The  Pilgrim's  Khan. — First  Night  among  the  Ruins. — 
Again  in  the  Saddle. — Ancient  Walls. — Arab  Villages. — Telegrai^h  Poles. 
— The  Old  Canals. — Remains  of  Belshazzar's  Palace. — The  Famous  Hang- 
ing Gardens. — Daniel's  Lion's  Den. — Harps  on  the  Willows. — Rivers  of 
Babylon. — The  Euphrates. — Immense  Palm-groves. — Bridge  of  Boats.— 
Modem  Hillah. — Our  Khan. — American  Petroleum.— Telegraph  Station. 
— Call  upon  the  Pasha. — Playing  with  a  Lion. — Sail  on  the  Euphrates. — 
A  Night  in  Hillah. — Start  for  the  Tower  of  Babel. — Dangers  in  tiie  Way. 
— Wonderful  Ruins. — Ascend  the  Tower  of  Babel. — The  Fiery  Furnace.^ 
The  Glory  of  Babylon. — Progress  of  its  Decline. — Prophecy  Fulfilled. — 
The  Warriors  of  the  Desert. — Return  to  Bagdad Page  122 

CHAPTER   IV. 

Sail  on  the  Tigris. — Perilous  Situation. — Sliriues  of  Kathimain. — Modes  of 
Traveling. — Making  a  Bargain. — Departure  from  Bagdad. — First  Night's 
Experience. — Half-way  House. — Delli  Abbass. — Adam's  Fleas. — Den  of 
Robbei-s. — Hills  of  Hamreen. — Beautiful  Flowers. — Karateppeh. — Storks, 
and  their  Habits. — Jebarah  Portrayed. — War  of  Words. — Walking  Qual- 
ities of  the  Arab. — Town  of  Kifri. — Turkish  Soldiers. — Day  of  Rest. — 
Storm  on  the  Desert. — Crossing  the  Dreaded  Dooz. — Dooz  Khurmuttee. 
— Changeless  East. — Conscripts. — Dandy  Officer. — Village  of  Tavok. — 
Singing  Dervish. — Robbers. — American  Songs. — -City  of  Kerkook. — Trav- 
eling with  the  Pasha's  Wives. — Excitement  in  the  Hills. — Altoon  Kupri. 
— Remarkable  Bridge. — Ancient  Arbela. — Battle  between  Darius  and  Al- 
exander the  Great. — Greater  Zab. — A  Night  with  the  Shepherds. — Hab- 
its and  Customs  of  the  Bedouins. — Eleventh  Day  Out. — Domes  of  Mosul, 
and  Gates  of  Nineveh. — Crossing  the  River. — Mine  Host. — Mr.  Rassam. — 
Splendid  Residence. — City  of  Mosul. — Mosques,  Churches,  and  Bazaars. — 
Easter-Sunday. — Elegant  Ladies 185 

CHAPTER  V. 

Among  the  Ruins  of  Ancient  Nineveh. — Historical  and  Scriptural  Allusions. 
— Nimrod,  the  Mighty  Hunter. — Asshur  and  his  Colony. — Extent  and  Du- 
ration of  the  Assyrian  Empire. — Extent  and  Glory  of  Nineveh. — Its  Walls, 
Gates,  and  Palaces. — Identity  of  its  Ruins. — Jonah's  Visit  to  Nineveh. — 
His  Mission  and, his  Tomb. — Sail  down  the  Euphrates. — Beautiful  Scen- 
ery.— Selamiyah. — Donkey-ride. — Birthplace  of  Saladin. — Great  Image  of 
Nebuchadnezzar. — Exploring  the  Ruins. — Tower  of  Nimroud. — Ancient 


CONTENTS.  13 

Temples.— Wonderful  Sculptures.— Palace  of  Asshurizir-pal.— Splendid 
Remains.  —  Palaces  of  Shalmaneser  II.,  and  of  Tiglath-pileser  II.  —  The 
Marble  Obelisk.  — Palace  of  Esar-haddon.  —  God  Nebo.  —  Horrid  Niglit 
with  the  Arabs. — Return  to  Mosul. — Grand  Palace  of  Sennacherib,  and 
its  Magnificent  Sculpture. — Annals  and  Will  of  Sennacherib. — Palace  of 
Sardanapalus,  and  its  Splendid  Bass-reliefs. — Assyrian  Wars. — Fall  of 
Nineveh. — The  Last  Battle. — Prophecy  Fulfilled Page  253 

CHAPTER   VI. 

Discovery  of  the  Royal  Library  of  Asshur-bani-pal. — Rawlinson  on  the  Nat- 
ure and  Style  of  Assyrian  Writing. — Eminent  Cuneiform  Scholars.  — Lay- 
ard's  History  of  the  Process  of  Deciphering  the  Cuneiform  Characters. 
— Triumphant  Success. — Specimens  of  the  Translated  Taljlets. — Prom- 
issory Note. — Bill  for  the  Sale  of  Slaves. — Deed  of  Conveyance. — Relig- 
ious Views  of  the  Assyrians. — Forms  of  Prayer. — Death  of  a  Righteous 
Man. — Harmony  between  the  Bible  and  the  Assyrian  Records. — Daniel 
in  the  Lion's  Den,  and  his  Companions  in  the  Fiery  Furnace. — Modes  of 
Punishment. — Chaldean  Account  of  the  Creation  and  of  the  Deluge  by 
Berosus. — Original  Account  of  the  Flood  by  the  Assyrians,  Discovered 
by  Mr.  Smith,  and  his  more  recent  Translation  of  the  Same. — Cojjy  of  the 
Record. — Its  Agreement  and  Disagreement  with  the  Bible. — Probable 
Future  Discoveries,  and  their  Bearing  on  Biblical  Interpretation. — What 
the  United  States  should  do  in  the  Work  of  Exploration 321 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Christianity  in  the  East. — Origin  of  the  Nestorians. — Their  Great  Learning. 
— Their  Vast  Missions. — Letter  from  Mr.  Hormuzd  Rassam  on  the  Eastern 
Churches. — Syrian  Jacobites. — Syrian  Catholics. — Chaldean  Nestorians. — 
Their  Chaldean  Origin.  —  Opinions  of  Ancient  and  Modern  Authors. — 
Language  of  the  Chaldeans. — History  and  Creed  of  the  Nestorians. — 
Their  Present  and  Their  Future 362 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

Departure  from  Mosul. ^Horseback  Ride  of  Six  Hundred  Miles.  —  Last 
View  of  Nineveh. — First  Day's  Ride. — A  Night  with  the  Devil-worship- 
ers.— Hills  of  Kurdistan. — The  Kurds. — Stuck  in  the  Mud. — Xenophon's 
Retreat.  —  Sabbath  of  Feshapoor.  — Crossing  the  Tigris.  —  Traveling  in 
Mesopotamia. — Girls  of  Uznaoor. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Nisibeen  and  the 
Nestorians. — Roman  Ruins  at  Dara. — The  True  Ararat. — Heights  of  Mar- 
deen. — American  Mission. — Jacoljite  Christians. — Missionary  Meeting. — 
Dance  of  tlie  Devil-worshipers. — Attacked  by  Robbers. — Great  Caravan. 
—No  Water. — Beautiful  Orfah.— Abraham's  Fishes  and  Birthplace. — Ur 


14  CONTENTS. 

of  the  Chaldees.  —  Armenian  Christians  and  their  Creed.  —  A  Letter  to 
Christ.  —  American  Church.  —  Roman  Roads  and  Reservoirs. — Miliiing 
Sheep. — Picturesque  Town  of  Birijilv. — Crossing  the  Euphrates.— Travel- 
ing iu  Syria. — American  Petroleum. — Three  Hundred  Camels,  and  their 
Habits. — Aleppo  and  its  People. — A  Funeral.  —  Commerce. — American 
Mission. — A  Beautiful  Lady. — Charming  Scenery. — Tlie  Flood. — Roman 
Roads.— Wild  Pass  of  Beylan.  —  First  View  of  the  Sea.  —  End  of  the 
Journey Page  393 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Pagr 

THE  GARDEN  OP  EDEN Frontispiece. 

MAP  OP   ROUTE   FROM   BOMBAY  TO   THE   MEDITERRANEAN   SEA To  face  17 

IDOL   TEMPLE   AT  DWAKA 22 

FEEDING   THE   SACRED    CROCODILES 28 

CITY  OP   MUSCAT 33 

THE  PEARL-FISHER 46 

WILD   BOAR   OF   THE  TIGRIS 73 

A  LION   HUNT 76 

TOMB  OF   EZRA 79 

ANCIENT  CTESIPHON 90 

CAPTAIN  Holland's  house 97 

MARKET-PLACE   OF   BAGDAD 105 

native  christian  women 115 

THE    KHAN 126 

ancient   BABYLONIAN   CANALS 132 

belshazzar's  palace 135 

hanging  gardens 139 

Daniel's  lions'  den 142 

the  charm-bowl 143 

TOMB    op   EZEKIEL 150 

tower   OF    BABEL 153 

brick  from  the  tower  op  babel 154 

plan  of  ancient  babylon 163 

fighting  pilgrims 181 

bridge  op  boats  at  bagdad 187 

tombs  op  kathimain 190 

tomb  of  zobeida 191 

a  khajawah 196 

interior  op  a  khan 201 

town  of  kipri 210 

raft  on  the  tigris 233 

shepherd's  tent ;.  235 

arab  man  and  woman 239 


1 Q  ILL  US  TEA  TIONS. 

Page 

city  op  mosul 241 

landing  at  mosul 244 

interior  of  a  house  at  mosul 245 

joseph  ado 250 

entrance  to  a  temple 266 

tunnel  in  the  tower  of  nimroud 267 

entrance  to  a  temple 269 

statue  of  a  king 271 

entrance  to  the  great  hall  of  the  north-west  palace 273 

excavations 275 

tiglath-pileser  in  his  chariot 279 

the  god  nebo 283 

the  mounds  of  kuyunjik 287 

a  winged  bull 290 

tomb  of  the  prophet  jonah,  and  the  river  khausser 292 

palace  op  sennacherib  restored 294 

bass-reliefs 296 

sculptures  in  relief 298 

removal  of  a  colossal  lion 301 

sennacherib  on  his  throne 304 

placing  a  human-headed  bull  in  position 305 

inscribed  tablets 308 

inscriptions  on  the  winged  bulls 309 

jewish  captives 313 

torturing  the  captives 316 

specimen  op  a  cuneiform  inscription 339 

the  deluge  tablets 349 

chamber  where  the  tablets  were  found 351 

hormuzd  rassam 366 

a  tukhteravan 393 

valley  op  sheikh  adi 398 

chief  of  the  devil-worshipers ..'. 400 

dance  op  the  devil-worshipers 401 

high-priest  of  the  devil- worshipers 403 

yezidi  women 404 

kurdish  women 405 

christian  girls  op  uznaoor 414 

greek  and  roman  remains  at  nisibeen 417 

city  of  mardeen 421 

city  op  orfah. 429 

Abraham's  mosque  and  pool. 433 

town  of  birijik 439 

THE  dromedary 446 

ARAB  CAMELS 447 

HALT  OF  A  CARAVAN 449 


THRONES  AND  PALACES 


OF 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Up  the  Persian  Gulf. — Brilliant  Anticipations. — Memorable  Historic  Lands. 
— Preparations  for  the  Journey. — Our  Party. — Steamer  Burniah. — En- 
glish Travelers. — Pilgrims  to  the  Shrine  of  Dwaka.— Kurrachee. — Its 
History  and  Commerce. — Civilizations  Compared. — Worshiping  Alliga- 
tors.— Oriental  Gamblers. — Looking  for  a  Harbor. — Guadur. — Appear- 
ance and  History  of  Muscat. — Its  King  and  his  Kingdom. — Delicious 
Dates. — Ornamented  Women. — Reign  and  Forts  of  the  Portuguese. — 
Terrible  Massacre.  —  Sunset  at  Sea.  —  Arabian  and  Persian  Mountains. 
— Persian  Gulf  described. — Bunder  Abbas. — Portuguese  and  Ormuz. — 
Fire -worshipers. — Islands  in  the  Persian  Gulf — Kislim  and  Larrack. 
— ^Lingah. — Pearl-divers  of  Bahrein. — Pearl-fisheries. — Costly  Pearls. — 
A  Sea  of  Blood. — Bushire. — Tragic  Scenes. — England's  Lion  Share. — 
Ancient  and  Modern  Persia. — Brilliant  Phosphorescent  Display. — Slow- 
ness of  the  Orientals. — Dreadful  Storm. — Farewell  to  the  Persian  Gulf 
— Great  Shaat-el-Arab. — Beautiful  River  Scenery. — Sheikh  of  Mahome- 
rah. — First  Stage  of  our  Journey  Ended. — Commerce  of  Busrah. — En- 
chanting Rivulet.  —  Busrah.  —  Home  of  Sindbad  the  Sailor. — Ancient 
Ruins. — Garden  of  Eden. 

The  lights  along  the  lengthened  bund*  burned  dimly 
as  we  steamed  out  of  the  spacious  harbor  of  Bombay. 
The  evening  star  shone  over  the  Caves  of  Elephanta. 
The  elegant  villas  and  woodland  slopes  of  Malabar  Hill 
were  on  our  right  when  we  made  our  exit  to  the  sea. 
We  were  en  route  to  the  most  ancient  and  renowned 

*  Wharf  in  India. 

2 


18  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

lands  known  to  history,  whose  monumental  ruins  be- 
speak a  civilization  earlier  than  that  of  Greece  and 
Rome,  and  whose  exhumed  annals  contain  the  record  of 
events  coeval  with  our  race.  The  dreams  of  other  years 
were  soon  to  be  realized,  and  long-maturing  plans  were 
at  the  point  of  consummation.  Guided  by  the  studies 
of  former  days,  the  imagination  dwelt  with  delight  upon 
the  pleasures  that  awaited  us.  We  were  to  enjoy  the 
delicious  excitement  of 

"Moonlight  over  Oman's  sea;" 

scent  afar  the  s];)icy  breezes  of  "Araby  the  blest;"  linger  in 
the  date-groves  of  Muscat ;  gather  pearls  from  the  shores 
of  Bahrein ;  behold  "  Kishm's  fair  isle ;"  roam  through  the 
Garden  of  Eden ;  sail  up  the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates ; 
stand  on  the  Tower  of  Babel,  and  explore  the  ruins  of 
ancient  Babylon ;  stroll  through  the  bazaars  of  Bagdad, 
the  city  of  "The  Thousand  and  One  Nights;"  examine 
the  remains  of  Nineveh,  and  wander  through  the  palace 
of  Sennacherib ;  traverse  the  whole  length  of  Mesopota- 
mia, where  Job  lived,  where  Abraham  was  born,  where 
Jacob  wooed  his  beautiful  Rachel ;  pass  over  the  battle- 
fields of  Cyrus,  of  Alexander,  and  Trajan  ;  follow  the  "  Re- 
treat of  Xenophon  and  the  Ten  Thousand  ;"  visit  Nisibis 
of  the  Nestorians,  Mount  Masius  of  the  Romans,  and  An- 
tioch,  where  "  the  disciples  were  first  called  Christians." 

Such  was  the  fiiscinating  vision  that  floated  before  our 
imagination,  and  allured  us  by  its  entrancing  hopes.  It 
was  not  easy,  however,  to  obtain  accurate  and  reliable 
information  necessary  to  make  the  tour.  The  route  is 
not  frequented  by  ordinary  travelers,  and  only  a  few 
have  made  the  journey  for  research  and  exploration. 
Nine-tenths  of  the  persons  of  whom  we  made  inquiries 
discouraged  the  attempt.     We  were   told  that  terrific 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  19 

storms  frequent  the  Persian  Gulf;  that  robbers  infest 
those  countries ;  that  competent  guides  could  not  be  ob- 
tained ;  that  there  were  no  places  of  entertainment  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  traveler ;  that  numberless  streams, 
swollen  by  the  melted  snows  from  the  Hamreen  and 
Taurus  Mountains,  would  prove  impassable ;  and  that  a 
journey  of  a  thousand  miles  on  horseback  must  be  per- 
formed. Stories  were  related  of  personal  hardship,  of 
robberies  and  murders,  and  confirmed  by  Buckingham, 
by  Ainsworth,  by  Layard.  But  occasionally  we  had  met 
some  brave,  hopeful,  intelligent  person,  whose  encour- 
aging words  were  an  inspiration.  And,  fortunately,  we 
were  favored  with  letters  of  commendation  from  the 
high  officials  of  British  India  to  the  English  consul  at 
Bushire,  at  Busrah,  and  at  Bagdad. 

Happily  our  party  was  small.  If  great  hardships  were 
to  be  endured,  there  were  but  few  to  suifer.  If  lives 
were  to  be  sacrificed,  thei'e  were  only  three  to  die.  One 
of  our  companions  was  a  lady  whom  we  had  known  for 
eighteen  beautiful  years,  and  could  rely  upon  her  cour- 
age in  danger,  her  endurance  in  fatigue,  her  enthusiasm 
in  exploration.  The  other  compagnon  de  voyage  was  a 
gentleman  who  had  seen  the  beauty  of  sixty  summers, 
who  was  quiet,  intelligent,  and  brave.* 

Our  steamer  was  the  Burmah,  of  the  British  India 
Steamship  Navigation  Company,  and  was  bound  for 
Busrah,  on  the  Shaat-el-Arab,  the  end  of  the  first  stage 
of  our  journey.  Of  a  thousand  tons,  the  Burmali  proved 
an  admirable  steamer.  Her  saloon  was  large,  tastefully 
ornamented,  and  furnished  with  mirrors,  sofas,  and  a  li- 
brary. The  state-rooms  were  not  inferior  in  size  and 
convenience  to  those  on  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  steamers. 

*  Mr.  C.  B.  Collins,  of  New  York. 


20  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

The  bill  of  fare  was  good,  the  attendance  excellent,  and 
the  officers  were  competent  and  gentlemanly.  Our  cap- 
tain was  a  thorough  seaman,  and  a  thorough  English- 
man. He  was  a  sailor  among  his  crew,  a  gentleman 
among  his  passengers.  His  vigilance  knew  no  cessa- 
tion ;  and  although  the  first  officer  was  one  of  the  most 
efficient  seamen  I  have  ever  met,  yet  the  captain  re- 
mained on  deck  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  In  conversation 
he  was  genial  and  entertaining.  He  was  familiar  with 
the  ancient  and  modern  history  of  the  Persian  Gulf,  and 
seemed  happiest  when  reciting  some  legend  of  the  sea. 
Although  small  of  stature,  he  was  every  whit  a  man. 
Gifted  with  a  merry  laugh,  he  drove  dull  care  away. 
Born  to  command,  his  stentorian  voice  rose  above  the 
storm.  He  had  the  habit  of  omitting  the  li  where  he 
should  have  put  it,  and  of  putting  it  where  it  did  not 
belong.  One  day  when  sailing  along  the  Persian  coast, 
I  inquired :  "  Captain,  what  peaks  are  those  ?"  "  Those 
hare  the  Hass's  Hears,  sir,"  was  his  aspirated  response. 

On  board  the  Burmah  was  an  English  party  bound 
for  Bagdad,  and  consisted  of  the  Hon.  E.  H.  Ellis,  his 
mother,  Lady  Howard  de  Walden,  and  his  sister,  the 
Hon.  Miss  Ellis.  He  was  a  young  gentleman  of  fortune, 
and  traveled  for  pleasure.  His  previous  voyage  over 
the  same  route  had  made  him  familiar  with  every  island, 
peak,  and  river,  and  his  genial  manners  rendered  him  a 
delightful  companion.  He  was  an  amateur  j^hotogra- 
pher,  and  his  proficiency  in  the  art  is  best  evinced  by 
some  of  the  pictures  that  illustrate  this  volume.  His 
mother  and  sister  kept  a  pictorial  journal  of  their  tour, 
and  sketched  in  colors  each  town  and  temple  and  ruined 
tower,  each  quiet  bay  and  beetling  crag,  each  emerald 
isle  and  palm-date  grove,  wnth  a  rapidity  and  accuracy 
that  excited  our  admiration.     Stately  in  her  bearing  as 


IDOL    TEMPLE    AT    DWAKA. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  23 

a  queen,  the  mother  was  a  lady  of  much  culture,  and  of 
extensive  reading.  The  daughter  displayed  less  reserve 
of  manner,  and  gave  expressions  to  her  wit,  which  was 
as  brilliant  as  it  was  caustic. 

The  first  night  at  sea  had  passed,  and  the  morning 
found  us  on  the  Indian  Ocean,  whose  waters  lave  the  dis- 
tant shores  of  Arabia,  and  form  the  western  boundary 
of  British  India,  a  prize  coveted  oft  by  earth's  greatest 
conquerors.  The  wdnd  blew  hard,  and  the  weaves  ran 
high ;  but  as  the  day  declined  and  we  neared  the  land, 
the  sea  became  calm : 

"All  hush'd,  there's  not  a  breeze  in  motion, 
The  shore  is  silent  as  the  ocean. 
If  zephyrs  come,  so  light  they  come, 
Nor  leaf  is  stirr'd,  nor  wave  is  driven." 

At  nine  o'clock  on  Sunday  morning  we  dropped  anch- 
or in  the  harbor  of  Dwaka,  three  hundred  miles  from 
Bombay-  The  small  village  of  Dwaka  is  on  a  white 
sandy  beach,  and  is  the  site  of  one  of  the  richest  idol- 
temples  in  India.  We  had  stopped  to  land  two  hundred 
and  fifty  Hindoo  pilgrims,  who  had  come  to  offer  their 
devotions  at  this  most  sacred  shrine.  The  occasion  was 
a  mela,  which  occurs  once  in  twenty-five  years,  and  thith- 
er these  devotees  had  journeyed  to  worship  and  to  pay. 
On  leaving  port,  they  had  expressed  their  superstition 
by  throwing  cocoa-nuts  into  the  sea  to  insure  a  pleasant 
voyage ;  but  the  gods  of  the  deep  had  been  indifferent  to 
their  offerings,  and  the  sea  continued  rough.  The  wom- 
en were  extravagantly  ornamented  with  ivory  anklets, 
wdth  gold  ear-rings,  and  wdth  silver  rings  in  their  noses; 
but  they  were  thinly  clad,  and  suffered  much  in  the  keen 
winds  of  February.  According  to  report,  these  Hindoos 
save  the  earnings  of  a  quarter  of  a  century,  to  present 
them  at  this  famous  shrine ;  and  such  is  the  accumulated 


24  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

wealth  of  the  temple,  that  the  eyes  of  the  gods  are  dia- 
monds, and  the  priests  live  in  princely  magniiicence. 
Dwaka  is  a  walled  city,  and  within  the  walls  is  a  spa- 
cious arcaded  court,  adorned  with  miniature  temples. 
In  the  centre  of  the  court  stands  the  great  temple,  a  clus- 
ter of  buildings,  crowned  with  a  dome  of  white  marble, 
above  which  is  a  pinnacle  of  the  same  material,  magnif 
icently  gilded.  In  the  sea-front  of  the  tower  are  a  series 
of  ornamental  balconies,  and  from  its  peak  floated  a  ban- 
ner bearing  a  curious  device.  To  witness  their  devo- 
tions, we  joined  the  vast  procession  of  pilgrims,  who 
pressed,  with  boisterous  excitement,  toward  the  idol- 
shrine.  All  the  streets,  all  parts  of  the  court,  the  temple 
itself,  and  the  tower  thereof,  were  filled  with  worship- 
ers, whose  offerings  to  the  idol  amounted  to  millions  of 
rupees.  From  the  temple  the  idolaters,  old  and  young, 
male  and  female,  priest  and  layman,  hastened  to  the  sa- 
cred tank,  and  to  the  streams  that  issued  therefrom,  and 
plunged  tumultuously  therein,  believing  that  the  waters 
were  efficacious  to  wash  away  their  sins.  The  enthusi- 
asm of  the  devotees  rose  to  madness ;  and,  to  prevent 
injurious  results  to  life  and  limb,  the  soldiers  on  guard 
interfered,  but  with  more  violence  than  discretion. 

In  the  gray  of  the  next  morning  we  sighted  the  red 
bluffs  of  Kurrachee,  and  soon  thereafter  saw  the  long,  low, 
sandy  beach,  with  irregularly  formed  hills  beyond,  and 
vast,  gloomy  mountains  extending  far  away  to  the  north- 
east. At  noon  we  approached  Manora  Point,  whereon  is 
a  light-house  one  hundred  and  nineteen  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  seen  on  a  clear  night  a  distance  of 
seventeen  miles.  From  the  highest  bluff  floated  the  En- 
glish flag,  and  within  the  bay  were  steamers,  men-of  war, 
and  native  boats,  quietly  at  anchor.  As  the  bar  across 
the  mouth  of  the  harbor  is  ever  shifting,  dredging-ma- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  25 

chines  were  employed  to  keep  the  channel  open.  From 
Manora  Point  there  has  been  constructed  a  stone  break- 
water a  thousand  feet  long,  and  on  its  extreme  point  is 
an  iron  lantern,  wherein  a  fire  is  placed  at  night.  The 
view  from  the  deck  of  our  steamer  was  exceedingly  pict- 
uresque. On  our  left  were  the  Government  buildings, 
and  near  them  was  a  pretty  Gothic  church ;  on  our  right 
was  beautiful  Clifton ;  to  the  north-east  was  Kiamari ;  and 
near  us  were  rocks  carved  by  the  waves  into  fantastic 
forms.  The  most  conspicuous  object  was  Trinity  Church, 
whose  square  tower  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high, 
erected  by  a  seaman  to  guide  the  inward-bound  mariner. 
Situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  ancient  Indus,  Kur- 
rachee  has  a  historical  and  commercial  interest  of  more 
than  ordinary  significance.  It  was  here  that  Alexander 
the  Great,  returning  from  his  expedition  into  India,  em- 
barked to  join  his  fleet  on  the  Persian  Gulf,  under  the 
command  of  Nearchus ;  and  for  a  thousand  years  there- 
after Kurrachee  was  the  seat  of  an  extensive  trade. 
Prior  to  the  eighth  and  ninth  centuries  of  our  era,  the 
Red  Sea  was  the  chief  channel  of  trade  between  India 
and  Europe ;  but  after  the  Mohammedans  had  seized 
Egypt,  the  merchants  of  the  East  sought  a  new  channel 
of  commerce  through  the  Persian  Gulf  and  the  valley  of 
the  Euphrates.  Since  the  decay  of  the  Mohammedan 
power,  trade  has  returned  to  the  Red  Sea,  but  not  to  the 
disadvantage  of  Kurrachee.  Under  British  rule,  it  is  the 
sea-port  of  the  rich  province  of  Sinde,  and  of  the  whole 
valley  of  the  Indus,  from  Cashmere  to  the  Indian  Ocean. 
It  is  the  most  north-westerly  port  of  British  India,  and 
the  coming  rival  of  Bombay  for  the  trade  of  the  great 
North-west.  A  railroad  is  now  in  process  of  construction 
along  the  banks  of  the  Indus,  extending  from  Ivuri'achee 
to  Moultan,  to  Lahore  and  Peshawar,  and,  when  com- 


26  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

pleted,  will  not  only  connect  Kurracliee  with  all  parts 
of  Northern  and  Central  India,  but  will  bring  to  its  har- 
bor the  products  of  the  Sinde,  of  the  Punjab,  of  Afghan- 
istan, and  of  Cashmere.  At  present,  large  quantities  of 
cotton,  wool,  wheat,  indigo,  hides,  and  horns  are  brought 
here  for  shipment.  In  1873,  the  imports  were  valued  at 
nearly  $5,000,000,  and  the  exports  exceeded  that  amount. 
During  our  late  war,  Kurrachee  was  the  principal  port 
for  the  shipment  of  Indian  cotton,  which  was  raised  in 
the  valley  of  the  Indus,  and  which  gave  considerable  im- 
portance to  the  place ;  but  since  the  return  of  peace  and 
the  re-appearance  of  American  cotton  in  European  mar- 
kets, the  city  has  declined,  and  real  estate  is  now  sold 
for  a  song.  The  present  embarrassment,  however,  is  only 
temporary,  and  results  from  wild  financial  speculations 
rather  than  from  permanent  causes.  Under  the  new  im- 
pulse from  railroads,  trade  will  rapidly  revive.  Sooner 
or  later,  the  Euphrates  valley  railroad  will  be  an  accom- 
plished fact ;  and  when  that  great  work  is  done,  Kurra- 
chee will  be  the  second  commercial  emporium  in  British 
India,  and  trade  ^vill  be  restored  to  one  of  the  most  an- 
cient channels  of  commerce  known  to  history. 

Here,  as  in  other  parts  of  India,  the  effete  civilization 
of  the  East  is  gradually  succumbing  to  the  better  civili- 
zation of  the  West.  By  the  liberality  of  the  European 
residents,  a  library  of  six  thousand  well- selected  vol- 
umes has  been  opened  to  the  public.  Adjoining  the  li- 
brary is  a  museum,  wherein  are  specimens  of  native  min- 
erals and  petrified  wood ;  a  variety  of  cereals,  of  fishes, 
of  red  and  white  corals;  a  large  number  of  stuffed  birds, 
of  deer  and  wild  goats,  and  a  quantity  of  Sinde  pottery, 
rich  and  rare.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  museum  are 
two  pillars,  each  one  resting  on  the  back  of  an  elephant, 
and  each  composed  of  a  series  of  carved  men  and  women 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  27 

in  the  grotesque  costumes  of  India.  Those  pillars  are 
the  spoils  of  war.  When  the  English  captured  the  city 
of  Beyt,  they  blew  up  a  famous  idol  temple  therein,  and 
from  the  debris  thereof  carried  away  the  pillars  as  the 
trophies  of  victory. 

Here,  as  elsewhere  in  India,  the  light  of  a  purer  faith 
is  sensibly  dissipating  the  darkness  of  pagan  superstition 
and  ignorance.  Houses  of  mercy,  schools  of  learning, 
temples  of  piety,  open  their  portals  to  the  30,000  idola- 
ters of  insular  Kiamari,  and  the  results  are  as  beneficent 
as  they  are  gratifying.  But  the  darkness  that  remains 
is  palpable.  In  the  small  adjacent  village  of  Mugga- 
poor  are  performed  idolatrous  rites  debasing  to  all  that 
is  noble  in  man.  Thither  the  people  go  to  worship  al- 
ligators, regarded  as  sacred  animals,  and  daily  fed  by 
the  idol  priests.  Near  a  temple,  and  within  a  large  tank, 
are  twenty  of  those  hideous  creatures,  which  are  treated 
with  more  than  human  kindness.  Pilgrims  come  from 
afar  to  offer  sheep  and  goats  to  these  horrid  monsters. 
On  the  neighboring  plains,  the  priestly  shepherds  keep 
large  flocks  to  supply  the  pious  market  at  a  cost  of  two 
rupees  per  head.  As  an  act  of  devotion,  the  pilgrim 
throw^s  the  purchased  sheep  to  the  alligators,  ^vhich  fight 
over  the  offering  in  a  most  ungodlike  manner.  But 
feeding  them  with  sheep  is  a  great  improvement  com- 
pared with  the  horrid  custom  of  the  past,  when  mothers 
threw  their  infants  to  the  monsters  that  sported  in  the 
Indus  and  the  Ganges. 

At  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  Burmali  started 
for  Guadur,  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  Kur- 
rachee,  and  nearly  eight  hundred  miles  from  Bombay. 
The  air  was  hazy,  filled  with  a  fine  sand  blown  from  the 
distant  shore  of  Beloochistan.  On  our  rio-ht  was  Has 
Malan,  where  recently  a  whale  had  become  entangled 


28 


THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 


FEEDING   THE    SACRED   CROCODILES. 


with  the  submarine  cable,  and,  failing  to  extricate  him- 
self, had  been  completely  devoured  by  the  sharks.  The 
number  of  our  passengers  had  been  increased  by  an  ad- 
dition of  many  Turks,  Arabs,  Persians,  Jews,  Parsees,  and 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  09 

Armenians.  Whatever  their  wealth  and  their  style  of 
living  at  home,  these  Orientals  never  travel  as  first-class 
passengers.  Their  resj^ect  for  caste,  their  religious  super- 
stition, their  mode  of  cooking  and  eating,  their  pastime 
amusements,  and  their  national  self-conceit,  render  them 
exclusive.  They  prefer  to  sleep  on  the  deck  rather  than 
in  a  vi^ell-furnished  state-room,  and  to  eat  on  their  mat 
rather  than  sit  with  Christians  in  an  elegant  saloon.  As 
they  constitute  the  majority  of  travelers  on  all  the  steam- 
ers in  the  Far  East,  their  wishes  are  respected,  and  the 
whole  deck  is  accorded  to  them.  They  prefer  midships, 
and  the  hatchway  is  their  favorite  resort.  Once  in  pos- 
session of  this,  they  will  fight  for  it  to  the  death.  Rows 
frequently  occurred,  and  blood  was  shed  in  the  struggle 
for  this  preferable  spot.  Our  hatchway  amidships  was 
held  by  five  Arabs — four  men  and  a  boy.  They  were 
of  the  better  class  of  their  race,  and  their  costume  was 
of  the  gayest  colors.  Each  one  was  a  walking  armory, 
and  was  armed  with  a  Damascus  blade,  a  nicely  curved 
cimeter,  a  brace  of  silver  -  mounted  pistols,  and  a  rifle 
ornamented  with  mother-of-pearl.  A  Persian  rug  cov- 
ered the  spot  they  occupied,  on  which  they  ate  and 
slept,  prayed  and  gambled.  At  sunrise,  at  noon,  at  sun- 
set, they  made  long  prayers,  offered  with  many  genuflec- 
tions. At  sunset — fit  emblem  of  man's  dying  hour — 
they  seemed  most  devout.  The  coming  twilight,  the  si- 
lence of  all  nature  sinking  to  rest,  added  to  the  solemnity 
of  the  scene.  Nothing  diverted  their  attention.  They 
appeared  unconscious  of  the  eyes  that  gazed  upon  them. 
How  reverential  was  each  act !  how  measured  each  sen- 
tence of  prayer !  how  exact  each  prostration  before  the 
Lord  and  his  prophet,  Mohammed !  Yet  their  religion 
allowed  them  to  shed  blood  in  defense  of  trivial  and  fan- 
cied rights.     They  retained  possession  of  the  hatchway 


30  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

even  to  blows,  and  threatened  death  to  all  intruders. 
Theirs  is  the  religion  of  the  sword.  "  Blood  for  blood  " 
is  a  maxim  of  every-day  life.  The  hours  intervening  be- 
tween their  acts  of  solemn  worship  were  s]3ent  in  gam- 
bling. They  gambled  for  gold,  for  the  swords  they  car- 
ried, for  the  jewels  they  wore.  Occasionally,  the  game 
was  suspended  long  enough  for  prayer,  and  then  resumed 
with  renewed  zest.  Their  love  for  a  game  of  chance 
was  not  peculiar  to  them,  for  it  is  a  ruling  passion  in  the 
East.  Gambling  is  universal  in  Japan  and  China,  in 
Persia  and  India,  in  the  islands  on  the  equator,  in  Egypt 
and  Palestine,  in  the  cities  of  Asia  Minor,  in  the  palaces 
of  Constantinoj^le,  in  the  Turkish  empire  from  the  Per- 
sian Gulf  to  the  banks  of  the  Danube.  Those  who  cast 
lots  on  Mount  Calvary  for  the  seamless  garment  have 
more  followers  than  the  prophet  Mohammed. 

We  should  have  been  at  Guadur  at  5  p.m.  on  the  sec- 
ond day  from  Kurrachee ;  but  the  fog  was  dense,  the  har- 
bor difficult  to  enter,  the  officers  indifferent  to  the  lapse 
of  time,  and  fearful  to  make  a  bold  venture.  As  night 
came  on  we  slowed,  and  moved  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  an 
hour  till  morning.  The  fog  and  the  darkness  passed 
simultaneously  away.  The  sun  rose  clear  and  bright, 
but  no  one  knew  where  we  were.  For  twenty  hours 
we  steamed  up  and  down  the  coast,  looking  for  the  har- 
bor. Each  man  had  his  opinion,  charts  were  consulted, 
landmarks  were  scanned,  and  each  mountain  and  inlet 
was  carefully  viewed  through  the  glass.  It  was  appar- 
ent to  every  one  that  we  were  all  at  sea.  For  three 
hours  we  ran  along  the  bold  white  bluffs  of  Ras  Noo. 
All  agreed  that  we  were  near  the  place.  At  length  ^ve 
sighted  the  low  white  sandy  beach  extending  from  Ras 
Noo  to  Castle  Hill,  a  bluff  five  hundred  feet  high,  com- 
posed of  white   rock,  whose   summit  the  elements  had 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  31 

wrouo-lit  into  the  semblance  of  a  castle,  which  had  given 
name  to  the  place.  Fancy  could  discern  columns  and 
t>-alleries  and  pinnacles,  and,  when  viewed  in  the  moon- 
Ho-ht,  seemed  weird,  like  the  haunted  ruin  of  some  for- 
saken  palace. 

It  was  high  noon  when  we  anchored  in  the  harbor, 
which,  thoug^h  difficult  to  find,  is  one  of  the  best  on  the 
coast.  As  Kurrachee  is  the  most  north-westerly  port  of 
British  India,  so  Guadur  is  the  extreme  north-western 
limit  of  Beloochistan.  It  is  an  insignificant  place,  but 
has  long  been  the  disputed  ground  between  Beloochistan 
and  Persia,  and  the  battle-field  of  many  a  struggle  for 
possession.  It  has  a  population  of  four  Euroj^eans  and 
three  hundred  natives,  whose  rags  their  poverty  pro- 
claimed. Near  it  is  a  larger  town,  wherein  is  a  tele- 
graph station,  the  only  sign  of  a  better  civilization. 

Once  more  afloat,  we  were  now  bound  for  Muscat, 
Arabia,  one  thousand  and  twenty-five  miles  from  Bom- 
bay, and  located  on  the  Gulf  of  Oman,  wdiich  is  interme- 
diate between  the  Persian  Gulf  and  the  Indian  Ocean. 
The  bold  bluffs  of  Castle  Hill  and  Ras  Noo 

"O'er  the  deep  their  shadows  flung," 

as  in  the  evening  twilight  we  turned  our  prow  toward 
the  Arabian  shore.  All  that  night,  all  the  next  day,  all 
the  ensuing  night,  we  steamed  over  a  placid  sea,  not 
faster  than  seven  knots  per  hour.  It  was  a  run  of  two 
hundred  and  forty-five  miles,  and  occupied  more  than 
thirty  hours  to  accomplish.  While  yet  the  stars  w^ere 
bright,  we  anchored  in  the  outer  harbor,  and  waited  for 
the  dawn.  And  when  the  sun  rose,  the  cove,  the  forts, 
the  city  of  Muscat,  lay  before  us.  On  our  right  and  on 
our  left  were  rock  islands,  the  dreary  home  of  fishermen 
and  pirates.     From  out  the  sea  appeared  rocks,  six  hun- 


32  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

dred  feet  high,  and  bej^ond  them,  and  far  inland,  could  be 
seen  the  mountains  of  Northern  Arabia.  The  increasing 
light  revealed  the  deep  caves  along  the  shore,  that  echoed 
the  roar  of  the  waves ;  and  far  up  the  rugged  rocks  ap- 
peared Arabs  in  white,  climbing  the  narrow,  winding 
paths.  On  the  boldest  peaks  were  the  old  forts  of  the 
Portuofuese,  now  the  watch-towers  of  the  Arabians.  Con- 
spicuous  among  the  buildings  of  the  town,  were  the 
king's  palace,  the  English  residency,  and  the  custom- 
house. The  scene  in  the  harbor  was  no  less  pleasing  to 
contemplate.  The  beautiful  cove  is  a  semicircle,  and 
therein  fifty  vessels  can  safely  anchor  at  the  same  time. 
A  mile  long  and  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  it  is  safe 
and  well  sheltered.  When  we  arrived,  an  English  gun- 
boat, a  Turkish  man-of-war,  and  many  coasting  boats, 
were  at  anchor  in  the  quiet  waters  o'l  the  bay. 

Commercially  and  politically,  Muscat  has  had  an  event- 
ful history.  Three  centuries  ago,  Alphonso  d' Albuquer- 
que, of  Portugal,  conquered  all  the  islands  of  the  Persian 
Grulf,  and  the  Portuguese  held  them  till  1707,  when  the 
Muscat  Arabs  gained  the  ascendency.  On  all  the  high- 
er rocks  commanding  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  the 
Portuguese  constructed  strong  forts,  that  for  two  centu- 
ries bade  defiance  to  Turk,  to  Arab,  and  Persian.  Dur- 
ing all  those  years  of  possession  and  prosperity  the  mer- 
chants of  Portugal  controlled  the  commerce  of  the  gulf, 
and  amassed  immense  fortunes.  Under  their  prosperous 
reign  Muscat  became  a  city  of  wealth  and  luxury,  and 
the  genius  and  beauty  of  Euro2)e  adorned  society ;  and 
under  those  Catholic  conquerors,  churches  and  monas- 
teries were  built,  and  priest  and  monk  held  undisputed 
sway.  In  the  rocks  by  the  sea  are  the  cells  of  the  an- 
chorites, while  here  and  there  may  be  seen  the  prostrate 
column  of  some  grand  cathedral.    But  all  now  is  changed. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


33 


The  Portuguese  were  expelled  by  the  Arabs,  The  ca- 
thedral became  a  mosque,  the  monastery  became  a  ha- 
rem, and  from  the  summit  of  the  rocks  the  monk  and 
the  nun  were  cast  into  the  sea.  Ten  thousand  Chris- 
tians were  massacred.  The  recluse  was  burned  to  death 
in  his  cell ;  the  priest  was  sabred  at  the  holy  altar ;  and 
the  Sister  of  Mercy,  with  her  helpless  orphans,  were  hurled 
from  the  precipice,  and  dashed  against  the  rocks  below. 


«n    ^Mk\  ,'^''^  .^tj.  ^r^^.^<m 


CITY   OP   MUSCAT. 


Originally,  the  kingdom  of  Oman  embraced  the  south- 
eastern section  of  Arabia,  from  Ras-ool-Hud,  on  the 
south,  to  Zobara,  on  the  north-eastern  coast.  It  consisted 
of  two  principalities ;  the  capital  of  one  was  Rastag,  and 
the  capital  of  the  other  was  Julfar.  The  male  portion 
of  the  population  was  then  estimated  at  eight  hundred 
thousand,  and  furnished  an  army  of  brave  warriors.  But 
since  the  expulsion  of  the  Portuguese,  frequent  quarrels 
have  occurred  between  the  Arabs  and  the  Persians,  re- 
sulting now  in  Persian  conquest  and  anon  in  Arab  as- 

3 


34  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

cendency.  At  present,  Muscat  is  the  capital  of  all  tbat 
portion  of  the  former  kingdom  bounded  by  the  Gulf  of 
Oman,  and  contains  a  population  tbat  fluctuates  from  ten 
to  thirty  thousand.  Still  retaining  somewhat  of  its  for- 
mer commercial  importance,  the  Banians  are  the  brokers, 
the  Arabs  are  the  merchants,  and  the  kino;  is  the  chief 
trader.  The  present  imaum,  as  he  is  sacredly  called,  is 
an  independent  sultan,  whose  will  is  absolute,  and  whose 
authority  is  maintained  by  the  force  of  arms. 

On  going  ashore,  we  called  upon  his  majesty,  who  is 
now  in  his  forty-fifth  year,  but  in  feeble  health.  On  the 
left  of  the  royal  entrance  is  a  lion's  den,  wherein  ^v^as 
a  young  lion,  the  plaything  of  the  king's  domestics. 
Adjoining  the  palace  is  the  sultan's  harem,  filled  with 
young  and  beautiful  Arabian  women.  Opposite  the 
residence  are  the  royal  stables,  well  supplied  with  the 
best  native  horses,  that  were  cleaner  and  fatter  than  the 
men  who  had  them  in  charge.  Near  the  palace  is  the 
custom-house,  which  presented  a  busy  scene.  Extend- 
ing along  the  bund  for  hundreds  of  yards  were  stacks  of 
wheat,  wool,  and  dates  in  sacks,  ready  for  shipment  to 
foreign  parts.  The  chief  article  of  export  is  the  Muscat 
date,  considered  the  finest  in  the  world.  From  four  to 
six  American  vessels  arrive  here  annually,  and  load  with 
dates  for  the  United  States.  Those  sent  to  America  are 
packed  in  bamboo  sacks  when  fully  I'ipe,  by  which  proc- 
ess the  rich  juice  is  preserved,  and  hence  they  are  called 
"  wet  dates ;"  but  they  are  much  inferior  in  flavor  to 
the  "  dried  date,"  sold  here  in  the  bazaars,  and  which 
constitute  the  princi23al  article  of  food  of  the  natives 
when  on  a  journey.  Were  these  dried  dates  shipped  to 
America,  they  would  be  esteemed  a  luxury,  and  would 
find  a  ready  market.  In  1833,  a  commercial  treaty  was 
concluded  between  the  United  States  and  the  Sultan  of 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  .  35 

Muscat  that  secured  to  us  the  advantages  of  an  enlarged 
trade ;  but,  owing  to  our  limited  merchant  marine,  En- 
gland controls  the  trade  of  this  port.  But  England  has 
no  other  relations  with  the  sultan  than  such  as  are  stip 
ulated  by  treaty,  which,  however,  secures  to  her  the  su- 
perior advantage  of  the  right  to  keej)  at  all  times  one 
gun-boat  in  the  harbor,  and  by  which  she  has  a  commer- 
cial advantage  over  all  other  nations. 

From  the  custom  -  house  we  wandered  throu2;h  the 
town,  whose  streets  are  crooked  lanes,  whose  buildings 
are  hovels,  whose  bazaars  are  gloomy  and  filthy.  The 
bazaars  were  well  supplied  with  English  goods,  with 
wet  and  dried  dates,  and  with  native  wares.  Each 
merchant  had  his  gun  by  his  side  and  a  sabre  in  his 
girdle,  not  only  in  accordance  with  universal  custom,  but 
to  protect  his  life  and  property,  as  neither  is  secure  un- 
der the  weak  and  miserable  rule  of  the  Mohammedan 
sultan.  The  Arabs,  who  had  come  from  their  farm  and 
their  fold  to  trade,  were  armed  for  battle  and  ready  for 
the  fray.  The  Arab  sleeps,  eats,  drinks,  trades,  works, 
travels,  marries,  prays,  and  dies  with  his  sabre,  match- 
lock, and  pistols  on,  ready  for  use  at  a  moment's  warning. 
In  the  bazaars,  women  were  winnowing  grain,  and  men 
selling  their  merchandise.  .Beauty  is  not  an  attribute 
of  the  women  of  Muscat.  They  had  rings  in  their  ears, 
rings  on  their  toes,  and  rings  in  their  noses,  but  beauty 
nowhere.  A  single  robe  of  blue  cotton  cloth  covered 
their  person,  and  the  tattered  condition  of  that  indicated 
the  poverty  to  which  they  are  reduced  by  a  false  relig- 
ion and  a  despotic  government. 

From  the  market-place  we  ascended  the  rocks  on  the 
right  of  the  town,  and  entered  the  old  Portuguese  fort. 
Over  the  entrance  is  the  date  "1588."  Within  the 
walls  are  rusty  English,  Dutch,  and  Portuguese  guns  of 


36  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

large  calibre;  and  on  one  is  tlie  date "1625."  From  the 
parapet  of  the  fort,  six  hundred  feet  high,  the  view  of  sea 
and  laud  was  extensive  and  enchanting.  Inland  could 
be  seen  the  town,  with  its  white  buildings  and  the  green 
valleys  beyond;  seaward,  the  prospect  w^as  grand  and 
boundless.  Around  us  lay  the  ruins  of  former  greatness; 
and  directly  opposite  was  Fort  Jilla  Forsah,  from  whose 
frowning  parapet,  and  down  whose  rugged  sides,  monks 
and  nuns  were  hurled  by  their  Mohammedan  conquerors. 
Amidst  the  golden  splendor  of  an  Arabian  sunset,  we 
left  Muscat  for  Bunder  Abbas,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  to  the  north-east,  on  the  Persian  shore.  The  peaks 
of  Oman  were  the  last  to  cherish  the  fading  light  of  de- 
parting day.  A  brief  twilight,  and  the  greater  and  lesser 
stars  came  forth  one  by  one  to  attend  the  crescent  moon. 
There  was  a  calm  in  the  sky;  there  was  a  calm  on  the 
sea.  On  the  Burmah,  quiet  had  succeeded  the  excite- 
ment of  the  day.  The  thunder-tones  of  the  little  captain 
had  given  place  to  notes  of  softness.  Pilgrim,  traveler, 
and  sailor  felt  the  rejDose  of  the  evening  hour. 

"'Twas  the  voice  of  nature  calling 

Earth's  weary  children  to  repose ; 
While,  round  the  couch  of  nature  falling, 

Gently  the  night's  soft  curtains  close. 
Soon  o'er  a  world  in  sleep  reclining, 

Numberless  stars  throughout  yond  dark 
Shall  look,  like  eyes  of  cherubs  shining 

From  out  the  veil  that  hides  the  Ark." 

That  was  the  last  night  of  the  week.  The  Christian 
Sabbath  dawned  upon  a  land  where  its  sanctity  is  unob- 
served, and  where  its  benedictions  are  unknown.  Our 
Mohammedan  passengers  prayed  and  gambled ;  the  Per- 
sians ate  and  slept ;  the  Jews  counted  their  money ;  the 
Parsees  examined  their  accounts ;  the  Armenians  read 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  37 

and  sung;  and  six  Protestants  assembled  in  the  saloon 
for  Divine  worship. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  sighted  land — Arabia  on  the 
west,  Persia  on  the  east.  On  either  shore  the  mount- 
ains were  lofty  and  imposing.  On  the  Persian  coast  was 
Ras  Jashk,  1720  feet  high  ;  beyond  was  Mount  Danghir, 
whose  summit  is  3133  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea; 
and  rising  above  them  all  in  glory  was  Mount  Biss,  the 
height  of  whose  highest  peak  is  4600  feet.  On  the 
Arabian  shore,  the  mountains  were  higher  and  bolder. 
Mount  Kewa  rises  5800  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
Gulf;  further  on  was  Fire  Peak,  whose  altitude  is  4470 
feet ;  and  higher  and  grander  than  all  his  fellows,  was 
Sham  Peak,  whose  lofty  brow  is  6700  feet  above  the 
surrounding  plain.  The  summits  of  all  the  higher 
mountains  were  covered  with  snow,  reflecting  the  rosy 
tints  of  the  setting  sun.  When  the  day  had  ended,  the 
last  zephyr  ceased  to  breathe.  The  sea  became  as  a 
plate  of  glass,  and  the  wake  of  our  steamer  through  the 
phosphorescent  light  shone  like  a  path  of  silver.  As 
each  wave  rolled  on  with  unbroken  crest,  it  resembled 
a  silver  scroll  thricely  polished. 

During  the  night,  we  had  passed  the  imaginary  bound- 
ary of  the  Sea  of  Oman ;  and  when  the  morning  came,  we 
were  on  the  Persian  Gulf,  which  is  six  hundred  miles 
long,  from  forty  to  two  hundred  miles  wide,  and  has  an 
area  of  eighty  thousand  square  miles.  In  outline  it  de- 
scribes a  curve,  and  properly  it  is  an  arm  of  the  Indian 
Ocean.  Its  entrance  is  through  the  Arabian  Sea,  the 
Gulf  of  Oman,  and  the  Straits  of  Ormuz.  The  latter  are 
less  than  thirty  miles  wide.  It  receives  the  waters  of 
the  Euphrates,  of  the  Tigris,  and  of  other  less  celebrated 
rivers.  It  is  frequented  by  terrific .  storms,  destructive 
alike  to  shij^ping  and  the  towns  along  the  coast.     It  is 


38  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

a  classic  sea,  and  rich  in  historic  associations.  In  one  of 
its  harbors  Alexander  the  Great  rejoined  his  fleet,  com- 
manded by  Nearchus ;  and  over  its  waters  the  great  Mac- 
edonian general  returned  to  Babylon,  to  revel  in  luxury 
and  to  die  in  shame.  During  eventful  wars,  Greek  and 
Roman,  Persian  and  Parthian,  Portuguese  and  Briton, 
have  fought  thereon  for  power  and  glory.  On  the  bot- 
tom of  this  little  inland  sea  are  strewed  the  wrecks  of  the 
mighty  navies  of  Europe  and  Asia,  and  amidst  its  corals 
are  the  bones  of  the  gallant  dead.  For  two  centuries  its 
shores  were  the  seat  of  European  commerce  and  luxury. 
One  of  its  cities  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the  legends  in 
"  The  Thousand  and  One  Nights."  On  one  of  its  islands 
lived  the  Fire-worshipers,  described  in  Moore's  famous 
"  Lalla  Rookh."  For  many  years  it  has  been  the  resort  of 
ph-ates,  whose  bloody  deeds  are  the  bloodiest  in  piratical 
annals.  The  Joassamee  pirates  have  long  bidden  defiance 
to  Persia,  to  Turkey,  and  to  England,  and  plundered  the 
merchantman  thereon,  cargoed  with  the  "  wealth  of  Or- 
muz  and  of  Ind."  Nor  is  their  occupation  gone.  Not 
a  month  before  our  arrival,  they  boarded  a  companion 
steamer  of  the  Burma\  wounded  the  officers,  and  stole 
the  immense  treasure  on  board.  And  we  were  in  like 
danger ;  but,  happily,  we  were  fully  prepared  to  meet  the 
pirates. 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  dropped  anchor  in 
the  harbor  of  Bunder  Abbas.  We  were  now  in  Persia, 
whose  warrior-kings  fill  so  large  a  space  in  ancient  and 
modern  history.  Situated  on  a  sandy  plain  of  crescent 
shape.  Bunder  Abbas  is  at  the  base  of  a  lofty  range  of 
mountains.  So  shallow  is  the  water  along  the  rocky 
coast,  that  even  small  boats  can  not  land.  When  with- 
in a  hundred  feet  of  the  shore,  we  were  carried  to  dry 
land  on  the  backs  of  the  boatmen.     Hundreds  of  Per- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  39 

sians  and  Arabs  crowded  to  see  us,  and  followed  us  in 
our  wanderings  through  the  town.  Homely  and  un- 
tidy as  were  the  women,  they  ran  at  the  approach  of 
the  strangers.  They  were  veiled,  but  not  to  hide  their 
beauty,  for  with  this  they  were  not  embarrassed.  The 
dwellings  are  of  mud,  without  form  or  comeliness.  The 
custom-house  has  some  pretensions  to  shape,  and  near  it 
is  a  round  tower,  but  a  poor  defense.  The  village  con- 
tains a  post-office  and  an  English  residency.  In  the  ba- 
zaars were  luscious  oranges,  a  hundred  for  a  dollar ;  and 
Persian  rugs,  the  best,  twenty  dollars  each.  South  of 
the  town  are  extensive  gardens,  where  the  palm  grows  in 
its  beauty.  In  summer  the  air  is  as  the  blast  of  a  fur- 
nace, and  mortal  vapors  are  exhaled  from  the  earth :  the 
fields  are  then  dry  and  black  as  if  scorched  with  fire, 
and  the  people  fly  to  the  mountains  to  escape  the  con- 
suming sirocco.  Those  mountains  are  high  and  grand. 
To  the  south  w^as  Shemil,  whose  altitude  is  8500  feet ; 
to  the  east  was  Ginnoch,  7690  feet  above  the  sea;  and 
far  away  could  be  seen  Mount  Bukiin,  11^000  feet  above 
the  adjacent  plain. 

We  were  now  at  the  centre  of  the  commercial  wealth 
and  luxury  of  the  Portuguese  in  the  sixteenth  and  in  the 
seventeenth  century.  On  our  right  was  "Kishm's  fair 
isle ;"  before  us  was  Larrack ;  on  our  left  was  Ormuz.  Less 
than  twelve  miles  to  the  south-west  of  Bunder  Abbas 
the  celebrated  island  of  Ormuz  is  thirty  miles  in  circum- 
ference. Its  barren  rocks  are  seven  hundred  feet  high, 
and  the  peaks  thereof  are  covered  with  a  transparent 
ice-like  incrustation  of  salt.  Some  of  the  soil  is  yellow 
with  sulphur,  some  gray  with  coj)per,  some  red  with  the 
oxide  of  iron.  Toward  the  south,  the  rocks  rise  from  the 
shore  like  a  vast  cyclopeau  wall.  Ormuz  is  an  island  of 
salt.     In  former  days,  the  article  was  placed  between  the 


40  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

planks  of  ships  to  preserve  them  from  the  dry-rot ;  and, 
in  later  times,  large  quantities  thereof  were  exported  to 
Arabia,  and  to  ports  on  the  Persian  coast.  It  is  the  dri- 
est island  on  the  globe.  It  contains  no  water,  save  what 
is  gathered  from  the  clouds  into  immense  reservoirs,  some 
of  which  are  centuries  old.  Its  present  inhabitants  num- 
ber four  hundred,  who  fish  by  day  and  steal  by  night, 
and  are  among  the  strictest  followers  of  Mohammed. 

But  how  changed  the  face  of  this  once  fair  island ! 
Here  lived  in  wealth  and  splendor  forty  thousand  people. 
The  merchants  of  Portugal  made  it  the  emporium  of 
trade  between  Europe  and  India.  Here  were  sold  the 
jewels  of  Bokhara,  the  blades  of  Damascus,  the  carpets 
of  Persia,  the  shawls  of  Cashmere,  the  spices  of  Ceylon, 
and  the  fabrics  of  Europe.  It  was  the  most  splendid 
city  in  the  East,  the  centre  of  fashion,  and  the  seat  of 
learning.  From  all  parts  of  the  globe,  merchants  were 
allured  hither  by  the  gains  of  trade,  the  splendor  of  the 
entertainments,  and  the  polish  of  its  citizens.  The  streets 
were  covered  with  carpets ;  linen  awnings  were  suspend- 
ed from  the  tops  of  the  houses,  to  afford  shade  and  cool- 
ness ;  the  dwellings  were  adorned  with  gilded  vases  filled 
with  flowering  shrubs  and  aromatic  plants;  wines  from 
Persia,  perfumes,  and  richest  delicacies,  tempted  the  ap- 
petite and  intoxicated  the  senses ;  the  citizens  ate  from 
plates  of  gold ;  they  were  banqueted  with  the  music  of 
the  East,  then  in  its  highest  perfection ;  and  beauty  and 
genius  combined  their  charms  to  complete  the  circle  of 
deliechts.  Camels  laden  with  water  were  stationed  in 
the  public  squares  for  the  use  of  the  citizens  and  the  ac- 
commodation of  the  traveler.  In  a  word,  extensive  com- 
merce, universal  opulence,  refined  luxury,  politeness  in 
women,  and  gallantry  in  men,  united  to  make  the  city 
the  seat  of  pleasure. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  41 

Near  the  sea  stood  the  j^alace  of  the  captain -general, 
whose  extraordinary  splendor  was  the  burden  of  many  a 
song.  From  out  the  waters  rose  the  castle,  defended  by 
the  bravest  troops,  and  contiguous  thereto  was  the  lofty 
column  whose  light,  seen  from  afar,  guided  mariner  and 
merchant  to  this  metropolis  of  wealth  and  luxury.  It 
was  of  this  renowned  city,  in  its  palmy  days,  Milton  sings : 

"High  on  a  throne  of  royal  state,  which  fiir 
Outshone  the  wealth  of  Ormuz  and  of  Ind, 
Or  where  the  gorgeous  East  with  richest  hand 
Showers  on  her  kings  barbaric  pearl  and  gold, 
Satan  exalted  sat." 

The  last  line  is  more  than  poetry — it  is  descriptive  of 
a  historic  fact,  confirmed  by  the  dissipations  of  the  peo- 
ple, and  tlie  terrible  wars  which  occurred. 

Unable  to  conquer  the  Portuguese  without  the  assist- 
ance of  a  foreign  ally,  the  Persians  formed  an  alliance 
with  the  English,  and  the  island  was  taken  by  storm  in 
1622.  Nothinsr  now  remains  of  the  former  mag-nificence 
of  Ormuz  but  a  fra2:ment  of  the  old  fort  risins;  out  of  the 
sea,  a  portion  of  the  conspicuous  light-house  that  stood 
between  the  fort  and  the  higher  rocks,  and  a  few  of  the 
large  reservoirs  designed  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
public.  It  was  not  destined,  however,  to  pass  into  ob- 
livion, but  rather  to  have  other  and  better  claims  on  the 
attention  of  mankind.  It  has  been  the  asylum  of  the 
oppressed,  and  a  city  of  refuge  for  the  persecuted.  When 
the  disciples  of  Zoroaster,  resident  in  Persia,  were  perse- 
cuted beyond  measure  by  their  Mohammedan  masters, 
they  fled  to  the  caves  of  Ormuz  for  refuge,  and,  watching 
their  opportunity,  they  migrated  to  Bombay,  where  their 
descendants  are  now  known  as  the  Parsees,  who  are  dis- 
tinguished no  less  for  their  wealth  than  for  their  intelli- 
gence. 


42  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

At  noon  the  next  clay  we  started  for  Lingab.  one  Inin- 
drecl  and  five  miles  up  the  Persian  coast.  We  came  in 
between  Ormuz  and  Larrack,  and  went  out  between  Lar- 
rack  and  Kishm.  Larrack  is  the  Icarus  of  Arrian,  once 
famous  for  its  j)earl-fisheries.  Its  rocks  are  five  hundred 
feet  high,  and  are  picturesque  when  viewed  from  the  sea. 
Its  ruined  churches  and  warehouses  proclaim  its  for- 
mer prosperity  ;  for  it  was  here,  in  1748,  that  the  Dutch 
established  themselves,  and  founded  a  flourishing  com- 
mercial city,  but  from  which  they  were  driven,  in  1765, 
by  the  Arabs,  led  on  by  the  brutal  corsair  Miramhana. 

To  the  north-east  was  Kishm,  the  largest  island  in  the 
Persian  Gulf.  Fifty-four  miles  long  and  twenty  miles 
wide,  its  form  has  some  resemblance  to  that  of  a  fish. 
Between  it  and  the  main,  the  channel  is  from  three  to 
thirteen  miles  wide,  and  is  studded  with  pretty  islets. 
On  the  plains  are  table-hills  from  two  feet  to  four  hun- 
dred feet  high.  Circular  in  form,  they  are  broader  at  the 
top  than  at  the  base.  Having  been  exposed  to  the  ac- 
tion of  the  elements  through  countless  ages,  their  sides 
have  crumbled  away,  leaving  many  grotesque  figures, 
which,  when  seen  by  moonlight,  appeared  to  pleasing 
effect,  and  recalled  a  canto  in  ''  The  Lady  of  the  Lake :" 

"The5r  rocky  summits,  split  and  rent, 
Form'd  turret,  dome,  and  battlement, 
Or  seem'd  fantastically  set 
With  cupola  and  minaret; 
Wild  crests  as  ever  pagod  deck'd. 
Or  mosque  of  Eastern  architect." 

In  the  centre  of  the  island  is  a  barren  rock,  three  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  steep  on  every  side.  Its  summit  is 
reached  from  within,  through  an  aperture  like  a  chimney, 
and  is  crowned  with  unknown  ruins. 

In  the  happier  days  of  commercial  prosperity,  the  ish 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  43 

and  was  inhabited  by  twenty  thousand  people,  and  on 
it  were  seventy  towns.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  were 
weavers,  who  produced  a  tapestry  that  equaled  that  of 
Persia.  The  chief  cities  were  Kishm,  Luft,  and  Bassa- 
dore.  The  latter  has  a  good  harbor,  a  small  bazaar,  and 
a  limited  population.  It  is  now  a  coaling  station  for  the 
English  navy ;  and  one  of  her  majesty's  gun-boats  was  in 
port  for  coal  when  we  passed  the  place.  The  prosperity 
of  this  beautiful  island  continued  under  the  Portu2;uese 
down  to  the  incursions  of  the  Joassamees  pirates,  who 
laid  waste  the  fields,  destroyed  the  villages,  and  mur- 
dered the  citizens,  without  regard  to  sex  or  age.  The 
ruins  that  remain  bespeak  the  folly  and  the  crime  of  the 
Mohammedan  outlaws. 

Our  progress  among  these  islands  was  slow,  as  our  lit- 
tle captain  obeyed  instructions  to  place  a  higher  value 
on  coal  than  on  time ;  but  this  rate  of  speed  was  better 
adapted  to  careful  observation.  During  our  cruise,  we 
ran  close  to  the  Great  Tomb,  an  islet  three  miles  long  by 
two  and  a  half  miles  wide,  and  on  it  were  a  few  young 
trees.  Near  it  is  the  Little  Tomb,  barren  and  without 
an  occupant. 

In  the  early  dawn,  we  anchored  in  the  fine  harbor  of 
Lingah,  which,  seen  from  the  deck  of  our  steamer,  pre- 
sented a  pleasant  appearance.  The  white-colored  build- 
ings stood  amidst  palm-groves;  and  from  the  residence 
of  the  sheikh  floated  the  Persian  flag.  We  landed  near 
a  new  caravansary,  erected  for  the  accommodation  of  pil- 
grims and  travelers,  and  sat  down  in  the  shade  of  the 
palms  to  enjoy  the  delicious  dates.  Each  tree  was  vig- 
orous, and  annually  yielded  fruit  to  the  value  of  five  dol- 
lars. The  population  is  estimated  at  ten  thousand,  com- 
posed of  Arabs,  Kurds,  Persians,  Jews,  and  Armenians, 
whose  costumes  bespoke  their  nationality,  and  for  the 


44  THBONES  AND  FALACES  OF 

support  of  his  creed  each  was  ready  to  fight.  The  ba- 
zaars are  inferior,  but  contained  a  supply  of  Manchester 
goods.  In  the  rear  of  the  town  are  mountains  high  and 
ruofsed.  Not  far  from  the  shore  is  Mount  Bustaneh, 
whose  height  is  estimated  at  two  thousand  feet.  East- 
ward is  West  Peak,  two  thousand  feet  higher.  Beyond 
is  Grubbs  Notch,  three  thousand  feet  above  the  plain ; 
and  further  on  is  Lingah  Peak,  a  thousand  feet  above 
the  Notch. 

Within  a  few  years  past,  Lingah  has  had  an  extensive 
trade  in  pearls  found  along  the  coast,  and  which  have 
commanded  a  high  price.  But  the  principal  pearl-fish- 
eries in  these  Persian  waters  are  around  the  island  of 
Bahrein,  three  hundred  miles  diagonally  across  the  Gulf, 
and  on  the  Arabian  side.  Thirty  miles  long  and  ten 
miles  wide,  Bahrein  is  ninety  miles  in  circumference. 
One  fourth  of  its  area  is  exceedingly  rich,  and  abounds 
in  date  and  orange  groves.  Everywhere  are  visible  the 
ruins  of  the  forts,  the  aqueducts,  the  reservoirs  and  pal- 
aces of  the  Persians,  who  formerly  possessed  this  favored 
island,  and  under  whose  prosperous  sway  three  hundred 
and  sixty  towns  were  built.  It  was  known  to  the  an- 
cients as  Tylos^  and  is  mentioned  by  Arrian.  It  has  had 
a  checkered  and  bloody  history.  The  Arabs  were  driv- 
en out  by  the  Persians,  the  Persians  by  the  Portuguese, 
the  Portuguese  by  the  Persians,  and  the  Persians  by  the 
Arabs,  who  now  possess  it.  Under  the  miserable  rule 
of  the  latter,  decay  has  gained  the  mastery.  Of  the' 
three  hundred-  and  sixty  populous  villages,  a  few  only  re- 
main. Bahrein  is  the  principal  town,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  fifty  thousand,  composed  of  many  nationalities. 
As  there  is  no  sweet  water  on  the  island,  the  people  are 
compelled  to  resort  to  a  remarkable  spring  in  the  sea. 
Divers  attach  a  bottle  to  their  girdle,  descend  to  within  a 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  45 

few  feet  of  the  bottom,  fill  and  cork  the  vessel,  pull  a  sig- 
nal cord,  and  are  raised  by  their  companions  to  the  surface 
again.  About  nine  miles  in  the  direction  of  Katiff  is 
another  and  larger  spring,  where  the  sea  is  three  fathoms 
deep.  A  dip-pump  is  inserted  in  the  bottom  of  a  tub, 
the  tub  is  placed  over  the  spring,  and  held  in  its  place 
by  weights.  To  the  pump  is  connected  a  hose,  through 
which  the  sweet  water  is  conducted  to  the  surface,  where 
boats  are  prepared  to  receive  it. 

But  the  chief  interest  attached  to  Bahrein  is  the  pearl 
trade,  which  is  so  extensive  that  ten  thousand  persons 
are  engaged  therein.  Some  of  the  methods  adopted  to 
obtain  the  pearls  were  practiced  by  the  Romans;  but 
the  details  of  these  methods  differ  with  different  divers. 
The  pearl-oyster  is  found  in  beds  like  the  common  oyster, 
and  often  in  great  quantities  in  certain  localities.  The 
most  valuable  pearls  are  found  in  water  from  six  to  eight 
fathoms  deep.  The  diving  season  usually  lasts  from 
June  to  October.  The  beds  are  surveyed,  and  divided 
into  four  parts,  and  only  one  part  is  worked  in  any  one 
year.  This  method  insures  a  rest  of  three  years  after 
each  fishing  season,  and  has  been  discovered  necessary  to 
the  full  growth  and  development  of  the  animal. 

When  the  fishing -time  has  come,  a  boat  is  anchored 
over  a  chosen  spot,  and  in  it  are  ten  men — five  divers 
and  five  pullers.  The  latter  remain  in  the  boat,  to  haul 
up  the  divers  and  receive  the  oysters ;  the  former  strip 
naked,  and  dive  to  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  The  ears  of 
the  divers  are  stuffed  with  bees-wax,  and  their  nostrils 
are  compressed  with  a  piece  of  elastic  horn;  to  their 
waist  is  fastened  a  small  basket  to  contain  the  oysters. 
When  all  is  ready,  they  place  their  foot  upon  a  stone  at- 
tached to  a  rope,  inhale  a  long  breath,  raise  their  right 
arm  as  a  signal  to  ^ay  out  the  rope,  and  descend  with 


46  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

the  stone,  holdiug  fast  to  the  rope  witli  the  left  hand. 
Having  collected  as  many  oysters  as  he  can,  the  diver 
pulls  the  signal  cord,  and  his  comrades  haul  him'  to  the 
surface  again.  Some  hardy  divers  can  remain  under  wa- 
ter eighty  seconds,  and  one  could  remain  six  minutes; 
but  ordinarily  the  time  is  from  forty  to  fifty  seconds. 
They  make  from  tw^elve  to  fifteen  descents  a  day,  and 
bring  up  a  hundred  oysters  each  time.  Where  the  wa- 
ter is  less  deep,  a  pole  is  driven  into  the  bottom  of  the 
sea,  and  the  divers  descend  head-first  along   the  pole. 


1^  k^^t^ 


TUE    1- KARL-FISHER. 


Having  previously  filled  their  mouth  with  oil,  they  spirt 
out  the  oil  as  soon  as  they  reach  the  bottom,  which  clar- 
ifies the  shallow  water,  and  enables  them  to  see  the  oys- 
ters. Loaded  with  the  treasures  of  the  sea,  they  re-ap- 
pear on  its  surface.  But  so  exhausting  are  their  labors, 
that  divers  are  short-lived.  They  rarely  attain  the  prime 
of  life,  and  in  appearance  are  thin  and  languid.  They 
are  frequently  compelled  to  defend  themselves  against 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  47 

the  monsters  of  the  deep.  They  seem  not  to  fear  the 
shark,  but  they  dread  the  saw-fish,  which  has  been  known 
to  cut  a  diver  completely  in  two.  Although  their  labors 
are  so  exhausting,  and  at  times  so  perilous,  yet  they  are 
poorly  paid.  The  proportions  of  the  gains  are  two  to 
the  diver  and  four  to  the  master ;  but  the  needy  fisher- 
man is  forced  in  winter  to  borrow  from  his  banker,  and 
pay  thirty  per  cent,  on  the  loan ;  so  that  at  the  end  of  the 
fishing  season  he  is  as  poor  as  he  was  at  the  beginning. 
But  be  he  ever  so  poor,  he  is  in  possession  of  one  pearl 
with  which  he  will  not  part.  It  is  an  old  and  universal 
custom  in  the  family  of  the  pearl-divers  of  Lingali  and 
Bahrein,  to  bore  a  pearl  on  their  wedding-day,  and  to 
this  they  cling  as  to  a  sacred  charm. 

From  immemorial  time,  the  pearl  has  been  ranked 
among  the  precious  gems,  and  highly  esteemed  as  one 
of  woman's  chief  ornaments.  It  is  the  inspired  simile  of 
Divine  truth.  It  is  the  chosen  emblem  of  good  fortune 
by  poets  and  romancers.  It  is  numbered  among  the  jew- 
els of  royalty.  Yet  Linnseus  has  shown  that  the  beau- 
tiful pearl  is  but  a  slimy  excretion  developed  for  the 
purpose  of  covering  a  grain  of  sand  or  some  other  for- 
eign substance  which  has  accidentally  entered  between 
the  delicate  mantle  and  the  shell,  and,  if  not  thus  covered, 
would  cause  irritation  to  the  former.  He  proved  by  ex- 
periment that,  by  perforating  a  living  pearl-oyster  and 
introducing  a  grain  of  sand,  a  nucleus  is  formed  for  the 
development  of  a  pearl ;  or,  in  other  words,  the  natural 
accretion  of  the  substance  of  pearls  is  always  due  to  some 
injury  the  animal  has  sustained ;  and  for  demonstrating 
this  fact,  Linnseus  was  knio;hted.  The  Chinese  are  known 
to  cause  the  formation  of  pearls  by  skillfully  introducing 
into  the  shells  small  beads  of  mother-of-pearl,  which 
soon  collect  an  incrustation  of  calcareous  matter;    and 


48  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

the  monks  in  China  have  imposed  on  the  credulity  of 
the  people  by  securing  by  this  process  pearl-coated  im- 
ages of  saints  and  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  exhibiting 
them  as  a  miracle  to  confirm  their  religion.  The  same 
animal  that  yields  the  precious  pearl  also  produces  the 
mother-of-pearl  shells,  which  are  so  beautifully  carved  by 
the  monks  of  Bethlehem  and  Jerusalem,  illustrative  of 
the  holy  places. 

There  are  two  methods  by  which  the  pearl  is  extract- 
ed. In  one  case  the  oysters  are  strewed  on  the  beach,  and 
exposed  to  the  rays  of  the  sun  until  the  animal  is  dead, 
and  the  shells  open  by  relaxation.  In  the  other  case  an 
iron  instrument  is  inserted,  and  the  shell  of  the  bivalve 
is  forced  open,  the  gem  extracted,  and  the  animal,  robbed 
of  its  jewel,  is  thrown  into  the  sea.  Many  of  the  oysters 
brought  up  by  the  divers  contain  no  pearls;  but  frequent- 
ly in  a  single  shell  are  found  from  eight  to  twelve,  and 
sometimes  twenty  pearls.  Not  a  few  of  them  are  small, 
and  such  are  called  "  seed-pearls ;"  but  occasionally  one 
is  found  so  lara^e  that  it  is  a  fortune  in  itself  The  two 
famous  pearls  that  Cleopatra  proposed  to  dissolve  in 
vinegar  in  honor  of  Mark  Antony,  at  the  luxurious  ban- 
quet to  which  she  had  invited  him,  were  valued  at 
$390,000.  Napoleon  III.  possessed  an  enormous  pear- 
shaped  pearl,  which  he  exhibited  at  the  Paris  Exposi- 
tion in  1855.  What  is  known  in  England  as  the  "  Hope 
pearl"  weighs  three  ounces,  and  measures  four  and  a 
half  inches  in  circumference.  And  while  in  Kussia,  I 
saw  among  the  crown  jewels  and  on  the  imperial  crown 
thirty-eight  vast  and  perfect  pearls,  each  one  a  fortune 
to  its  possessor. 

The  annual  yield  of  the  pearl-fisheries  of  Lingah  and 
Bahrein  is  estimated  in  value  at  $2,000,000.  And  al- 
though these  Persian  pearls  are  not  so  white  as  those  of 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  49 

Ceylon  and  Japan,  yet  they  are  larger  than  those  of  the 
former,  and  more  regular  in  shape  than  those  of  the  lat- 
■ter.  They  are  of  a  yellowish  hue,  and  long  retain  their 
golden  color;  whereas  the  whiter  pearls  lose  much  of 
their  lustre  by  lapse  of  time.  The  uneven  specimens  are 
sent  to  Constantinople  for  embroidering  and  head-orna- 
ments ;  but  the  perfect  and  magnificent  pearls  are  sent  to 
India,  to  Europe,  and  to  America,  where  they  add  a  fan- 
cied grace  to  the  natural  charms  of  woman. 

It  was  midday,  and  we  were  again  afloat.  We  were 
bound  for  Bushire,  on  the  Persian  coast,  three  hundred 
and  fifteen  miles  to  the  north-east.  All  that  afternoon, 
and  till  late  in  the  evening,  the  sea  ran  wdth  blood.  The 
surface  of  the  deep  was  of  a  scarlet  color  for  many  miles 
around  us.  It  was  a  strange  phenomenon,  and  filled  the 
soul  with  a  sense  of  horror.  "What  can  it  be  V  was  the 
spontaneous  question  of  each  beholder.  Had  the  fish, 
small  and  great,  been  slain  by  some  unknown  power,  and 
their  blood  come  to  the  surfiice  of  the  gulf?  It  seemed 
the  realization  of  the  vision  John  saw^ :  "And  the  sea 
shall  be  turned  into  blood."  Viewed  in  the  moonlio^ht, 
and  when  the  phosphorescent  waters  were  disturbed, 
the  spectacle  was  even  more  ghastly.  Hour  after  hour 
we  steamed  through  those  reddened  waters,  and  contem- 
plated this  wonder  of  the  deep.  Some  suggested  that  it 
was  the  spawn  on  which  whales  feed.  Others  thought 
it  a  mass  of  young  dead  fish.  But  it  proved  to  be  a 
vast  quantity  of  luminous  blubber,  the  mollusca  of  the 
medusa  species.  Its  color  was  intense,  and  at  night  it 
moved  in  waves  of  reddened  light.  It  is  evidently  a 
characteristic  of  these  waters,  as  the  same  had  been  ob- 
served by  former  travelers. 

During  the  night  we  passed  the  large  island  of  Frur, 
barren  and  unoccupied.     All  the  next  day  we  ran  along 

4 


50  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

the  Persian  coast,  with  the  high  mountains  of  Persia  full 
in  view.  Conspicuous  among  them  were  Bluff  Hill,  three 
thousand  six  hundred  feet  high ;  Barn  Hill,  a  thousand 
feet  higher;  and  Astuh  Notch,  the  highest  of  the  range. 
Farther  on  Avas  the  Fall,  so  called  from  a  sudden  depres- 
sion between  two  prominent  peaks.  The  pleasure  of  the 
prospect  was  heightened  by  the  many-colored  rocks,  and 
the  shadows  of  the  clouds  on  land  and  sea. 

Another  night  on  the  gulf  had  passed.  The  sun  had 
risen  on  the  towei's  of  Bushire.  It  was  the  morning  of 
the  third  day  from  Lingah.  We  were  now  in  the  chief 
sea-port  of  Persia,  in  N.  Jat.  29°,  and  in  E.  long.  50°  51^ 
An  English  steamer  and  a  few  native  boats  w^ere  at  anch- 
or in  the  bay.  As  the  water  in  the  harbor  is  shallow, 
we  dropped  anchor  two  miles  from  the  shore.  The  city 
of  Bushire  is  well  located.  The  mountains  around  it  are 
picturesque.  Bu  Reyyal,  or  the  Asses'  Ears,  is  two  thou- 
sand five  hundred  feet  high.  The  height  of  Kuh  Khormuj 
is  six  thousand  five  hundi'ed  feet.  The  summit  of  Round- 
top  Mountain  is  ten  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  The  buildings  of  the  town  are  con- 
structed of  mud  and  stone,  and  most  of  them  have  three 
stories.  On  the  roof  of  each  is  a  tower  so  arranged  as 
to  catch  each  passing  breeze  to  which  there  is  an  allusion 
in  "  Lalla  Rookh  :" 

"  The  wind-tower  on  the  Emir's  dome. 
Can  hardly  win  a  breath  from  heaven." 

The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and  nnclean.  Thirty 
thousand  Persians,  Arabs,  and  Armenians  reside  within 
the  contracted  limits  of  the  place.  Neither  language  can 
describe,  nor  can  pencil  portray,  the  uncleanliness  of  the 
Persian.  He  is  despised  by  the  Arab,  wdio  is  a  cleaner 
and  a  nobler  animal.     When  in  Peking,  I  thought  it  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  51 

most  foul  city  I  had  seen,  but  Busliire  is  fouler.  At  the 
custom-house  sat  the  Persian  officials,  who  wore  high  fur 
hats,  carried  long  swords,  and  smoked  longer  pipes. 

We  were  the  guests  of  Mr.  Demetrius,  an  Armenian 
merchant,  engaged  in  the  opium  trade.  In  going  to  his 
residence,  we  found  the  streets  filled  with  women  robed 
in  black,  and  weeping  bitterly.  Our  landing  had  oc- 
curred on  the  anniversary  of  the  murder  of  Hassan  and 
Hassein,  sons  of  Ali,  and  whose  memories  are  held  in 
veneration  next  to  that  of  Mohammed.  The  Persians 
are  their  adherents,  and  are  called  Sheeahs,  and  differ  from 
the  Arabs,  who  are  designated  as  Sunnis.  The  differ- 
ence between  them  relates  to  the  question  of  succession 
to  the  rank  and  authority  of  Mohammed  the  prophet. 
The  Arabs  recognize  Aboobeker,  Omar,  and  Ottoman  as 
the  first  three  and  true  successors  of  the  Prophet  of 
Mecca;  but  the  Persians  reject  these  as  usurpers,  and 
claim  that  Ali  Hassein  and  his  two  sons  are  the  legiti- 
mate successors  of  Mohammed.  It  was  in  defense  of 
their  asserted  rights  to  the  succession  that  Ali  and  his 
sons  were  slain,  and  the  strife  is  maintained  by  their  re- 
spective followers,  and  often  culminates  in  violence  and 
death.  The  anniversary  of  that  sad  day  is  solemnly  ob- 
served by  the  Persians.  All  business  is  suspended.  The 
mosques  are  thronged  fi'om  morning  till  night.  The 
Mollahs  recite  the  dreadful  story  of  the  murder,  and 
\vith  such  pathos  as  to  excite  the  faitliful  to  madness. 
On  that  day,  and  in  memory  of  the  martyrs,  the  wom'en 
clothe  themselves  in  black,  and  the  "  mourners  go  about 
the  streets."  They  gather  around  their  mosques,  sit 
upon  the  ground,  smite  their  breast,  and  weepingly  ex- 
claim, "  Why  did  they  die  ?"  From  the  mosques  the 
faithful  march  in  procession  through  the  streets,  with 
every  demonstration  of  grief      In   the   afternoon   they 


52  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

dramatize  the  murder  scene,  and  witli  such  effect  that 
the  representation  seems  to  them  a  reality.  In  a  moment 
of  frenzy,  they  rush  upon  the  men  who  personate  Yezid 
and  Moawziah,  the  assassins,  and  beat  them  in  a  shock- 
ins^  manner.  At  such  times  the  fanaticism  of  the  Sheeahs 
is  limited  by  no  restraint,  and  it  is  dangerous  for  SiCnnis 
and  foreigners  to  appear  in  the  streets. 

As  the  sea-port  town  of  Persia,  Bushire  has  an  exten- 
sive trade  in  wool,  wheat,  ojDium,  and  Manchester  goods. 
The  articles  of  export  are  brought  from  the  interior  on 
the  backs  of  camels,  and  the  imports  are  conveyed  by 
these  beasts  of  burden,  on  their  return  journey,  to  the  in- 
land towns  and  to  the  imperial  city  of  the  empire.  The 
largest  and  most  elegant  dwelling  in  the  city  is  occupied 
by  the  English  resident,  who  is  clothed  with  almost  em- 
bassadorial  power,  and  is  attended  by  a  numerous  staff 
of  subordinate  officers.  A  gun -boat  awaits  his  com- 
mands, not  merely  for  personal  protection,  but  to  enforce 
the  commercial  claims  of  England. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Shah  Ab- 
bas, the  Persian  emperor,  sought  an  alliance  with  Great 
Britain,  to  expel  from  the  gulf  the  Europeans  then  en- 
joying a  lucrative  trade  at  the  several  ports.  As  an  in- 
ducement, he  promised  to  give  the  English  free  trade  on 
these  waters,  and  a  moiety  of  the  customs  collected.  The 
alliance  was  formed,  the  other  European  powers  were 
expelled,  and  lucky  England  obtained  the  lion's  share. 
Her  gun-boats  are  in  every  port ;  her  consuls  exercise  a 
controlling  influence  on  Persian  commerce  and  politics; 
and  her  manufactured  goods  are  for  sale  in  every  inland 
village. 

By  degrees,  Persia  has  lost  her  supremacy,  and  her 
glory  has  departed.  She  was  once  the  seat  of  civiliza- 
tion and  political  power  in  the  East.     For  two  centuries 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  53 

she  was  the  leading  j^ower  in  the  world.  Her  area  was 
more  than  four  millions  of  square  miles.  Her  population 
numbered  hundreds  of  millions.  Her  victorious  arms 
had  carried  her  mighty  sceptre  into  Media,  Babylonia, 
Assyria,  Mesopotamia,  Syria,  Palestine,  Egypt,  Northern 
Africa,  and  from  the  banks  of  the  Indus  to  the  palaces 
of  imperial  Delhi.  Turning  to  Europe,  she  measured 
arms  with  the  Greeks  on  the  plains  of  Marathon  and  on 
the  waters  of  Salamis.  But  the  mighty  have  fallen.  The 
modern  Persians  can  boast  the  possession  of  the  tomb  of 
Cyrus  the  Great,  but,  like  that  tomb,  their  empire  is  the 
sepulchre  of  buried  greatness.  The  fate  of  Persia  was 
decided  on  the  plains  of  Naharand  in  a.d.  641,  when  one 
hundred  thousand  were  slain  in  battle;  and  when  the 
Arabs  compelled  the  Persians  to  accept  the  Moslem  faith 
at  the  point  of  the  sword,  Zoroaster  was  exchanged  for 
Mohammed,  and  a  great  people  were  forced  to  abandon 
a  pure  and  simple  religion,  and  embrace  an  imposture 
that  has  cursed  with  fanaticism,  w^ith  bribery,  and  polit- 
ical decay  every  nation  subject  to  its  power. 

With  Russia  on  the  north,  with  Afghanistan  and  Bel- 
oochistan  on  the  east,  with  Turkey  on  the  west,  and 
bounded  on  the  south  and  south-west  by  the  gulf,  the 
once  vast  empire  is  now  but  a  thousand  miles  long,  six 
hundred  miles  wide,  and  has  an  area  of  less  than  five 
hundred  thousand  square  miles,  and  a  population  of  less 
than  ten  millions.  Ruins,  degradation,  and  misery  every- 
where abound.  The  natural  resources  of  Persia  are  con- 
siderable, but,  neglected  by  an  ignorant,  superstitious,  and 
despotic  government,  her  commerce  is  insignificant.  A 
majority  of  her  inhabitants  are  wandering  tribes,  a  little 
removed  from  the  condition  of  Mexican  Indians.  The 
arts  are  neglected,  the  standard  of  education  is  low,  and 
the  great  improvements  of  modern  civilization  are  treated 


54  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

with  contempt.  Bribery  is  prevalent,  and  povei'ty  is  uni- 
versal. Justice  is  unknown  in  the  courts,  and  judicial 
decisions  are  purchased  by  the  highest  bidder.  The  Mol- 
lahs,  or  Moslem  priests,  who  administer  the  local  laws, 
are  notoriously  corrupt,  and  to  "  cheat  like  a  Mollah "  is 
a  proverb  among  the  people.  Such  is  Persia  of  to-day. 
The  only  bright  spot  in  all  her  dominions  is  where  the 
American  missionary  is  the  teacher  of  childhood  and  the 
preacher  of  a  divine  religion. 

That  night  the  bay  of  Bushire  was  brilliant  with 
phosphorescent  light.  A  thick  substance  floated  on  the 
water,  and,  when  disturbed,  emitted  an  emerald  light  of 
great  brilliancy.  An  orange  thrown  into  the  bay  pro- 
duced a  series  of  the  most  beautiful  illuminated  circles. 
When  fish  leaped  above  the  surface,  they  shone  resplen- 
dent. When  eels  darted  by  us,  the  effect  was  magical. 
We  dipped  up  the  water,  and  the  light  remained.  For 
a  rupee  the  sailors  launched  a  boat,  and  when  it  touched 
the  surface  of  the  bay,  its  sides  resembled  polished  sil- 
ver. Each  lifted  oar  dripped  with  glory.  The  spray 
that  covered  the  boatmen  transformed  them  into  angels 
of  light ;  and  the  wake  of  the  boat  was  a  succession  of 
resplendent  undulations. 

Three  days  were  sufficient  for  our  observations  at  Bu- 
shire. Indeed,  the  captain  and  his  passengers  desired  to 
leave  a  day  earlier  than  we  did ;  and,  had  we  done  so, 
we  should  have  escaped  the  most  terrific  storm  we  have 
ever  experienced.  But  time  is  of  the  least  possible  value 
in  the  estimation  of  an  Oriental.  A  day  and  a  thousand 
years  are  the  same  to  him.  No  entreaties  can  quicken 
his  speed.  Money  is  the  only  incentive  that  can  induce 
him  to  increase  his  locomotion,  and  even  this  is  transient 
in  its  effects.  The  traveler  from  the  West,  where  energy 
characterizes  every  movement,  and  where  time  is  mone}^, 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH.  55 

is  often  sorely  vexed  by  the  slowness  of  the  people  of  the 
East ;  but  he  soon  leai'ns  to  suppress  his  temper,  hold  his 
tongue,  and  permit  the  Oriental  snail  to  move  on  apace. 
The  Bushire  merchants,  both  Persians  and  Europeans, 
had  been  preparing  their  mail,  and  had  been  indifferent 
to  our  wishes  to  depart. 

It  was  four  o'clock  p.m.  when  the  mail-boat  came 
alongside,  and  in  a  few  minutes  thereafter  the  Burmah 
steamed  out  of  port.  Nature  had  displayed  all  her 
storm-signals.  The  very  air  felt  tempestuous.  The  wind 
blew  hard,  the  sea  was  rough,  and  at  midnight  the  storm 
burst  upon  us  in  all  its  fury.  Winds  howled  ;  rain  fell 
in  torrents;  lightning  flashed  and  darted  through  the 
darkened  air;  thunder  answered  thunder;  weaves  broke 
in  madness  over  us ;  the  Burmah  rolled  feaifully ;  every 
thing  that  had  not  been  made  fast  dashed  with  violence 
against  the  sides  of  the  steamer;  the  gloom  increased, 
and  the  darkness  became  palpable.  It  was  an  awful 
moment.  We  were  at  the  mercy  of  the  elements.  Our 
helplessness  was  apparent.  God  only  could  save  us. 
The  hours  passed  w^earily.  It  was  now  past  midnight, 
and  the  storm  rasfed  with  unabated  force.  The  dumb 
animals  gave  signs  of  fear.  The  poor  pilgrims  were 
thoroughly  drenched.  Every  officer  was  at  his  post. 
All  hands  were  called  on  deck.  The  stern  voice  of 
command  resounded  through  the  ship.  Our  little  cap- 
tain, in  his  helmet-cap  and  long  coat,  was  on  the  bridge 
thundering  out  his  orders,  and  enforcing  the  same  by  the 
application  of  his  boot.  He  was  equal  to  the  emergency. 
The  wind  came  in  squalls,  sure  sign  that  it  had  spent 
its  strength.  The  rain  ceased  ;  the  thunder  died  away ; 
the  clouds  broke ;  the  stars  came  out :  the  storm  had 
passed,  and  we  were  safe. 

The  scenes  of  the  night  were  the  subject  of  conversa- 


56  THRONES  AXI)  PALACES   OF 

tion  the  next  day.  All  denied  having  experienced  a  sen- 
sation of  fear.  Some  claimed  to  have  slept  through  all 
that  dreadful  storm, 

"Rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep," 

lulled  by  the  howling  winds,  and  soothed  by  the  deafen- 
ing thunder.  Happy  sleepers!  Yet  their  questions  as 
to  what  had  occurred  proved  that  they  had  been  dream- 
ing  about  a  storm.  We  are  ashamed  of  our  fears  when 
the  danger  is  over;  we  are  bold  wheu  courage  has  ceased 
to  be  a  virtue. 

But  farewell  to  the  Persian  Gulf!  Early  the  next 
morning  we  were  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shaat-el-Arab, 
which,  in  breadth,  depth,  current,  and  color,  is  not  unlike 
the  Mississippi.  Its  chief  tributaries  are  the  Euphrates 
and  the  Tigris,  that  have  their  confluence  at  Kurnah,  the 
traditional  Garden  of  Eden.  At  the  head  of  the  Persian 
Gulf  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shaat-el-Arab  is  Fao,  a 
telegraph  station,  and  whereat  is  located  a  post-ofiice  for 
the  accommodation  of  the.  few  European  and  Arabian 
inhabitants.  The  first  indication  of  our  near  approach 
was  the  yellow  color  of  the  water  on  our  starboard  side. 
It  was  so  thick  with  alluvial  matter,  and  so  distinct  from 
the  light-green  color  of  the  gulf,  that,  viewed  at  a  distance, 
it  resembled  a  j)eninsula  of  yellow  sand.  Nor  was  the 
illusion  dissipated  till  within  a  mile  of  the  confluence  of 
the  gulf  and  the  river.  Our  difficulty  now  "was  to  find 
the  channel.  The  i-ecent  storm  had  swept  away  the 
"Mark" — an  immense  buoy  that  had  been  anchored 
near  the  spot.  After  a  fruitless  search  of  four  hours,  we 
ventured  to  enter,  and,  fortunately,  found  the  channel. 
Leaving  the  mail  at  Fao,  we  entered  the  mouth  of  the 
Shaat-el-Arab,  and  steamed  against  the  eight -knot  cur- 
rent.    At  the  point  of  entrance  the  river  is  five  miles 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  57 

wide,  and  on  either  side  are  low,  narrow,  alluvial  banks, 
dotted  with  clumps  of  bushes.  As  we  ascended,  we  had 
Arabia  on  the  west  and  Persia  on  the  east,  not  five  miles 
apart.  On  the  Arabian  side  were  tombs  and  temples; 
on  the  Persian  shore  were  beautiful  palm-groves.  Be- 
cause the  current  was  so  strong  we  anchored  at  6  p.m., 
and  had  moonlight  on  the  Shaat-el-Arab. 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning  we  resumed  our 
voyage  up  the  noble  river.  The  sun  shone  with  un- 
clouded sj)lendor.  The  landscape  presented  a  scene  of 
unsurpassed  loveliness.  On  the  Persian  side  were  fields 
of  rice  and  wheat  and  extensive  date-palm  groves.  From 
boat  and  hut  the  smoke  from  the  fire  that  cooked  the 
morning  meal  was  floating  gently  away.  On  our  left 
and  in  mid-river  was  the  large  island  of  Mayabieh,  in 
whose  groves  the  birds  were  singing  sweetly.  On  the 
Arabian  side  the  palms  were  more  numerous,  and  in  the 
shade  of  those  noble  trees  w^ere  many  arcaded  buildings. 
Along  the  high  banks,  the  people  wandered,  clad  in  robes 
of  many  colors.  In  rapid  succession  we  passed  village 
after  village,  whose  happy  children  shouted  us  a  welcome. 
Near  the  margin  of  a  Persian  liver  stood  a  large  to^vn 
where  native  boats  were  at  anchor,  and  beyond  it  was 
a  smaller  handet,  around  which  was  a  cemetery  wherein 
the  white  tombstones  marked  the  resting-place  of  prince 
and  peasant. 

Eighty  miles  from  Fao  is  Mahomerah,  containing  eight 
hundred  houses,  the  homes  of  six  thousand  people.  Far 
from  the  interior  flows  the  River  Kariin,  and  near  it  is 
the  Dorak  Canal.  The  Kariin  separates  Turkey  from 
Persia.  The  sheikh  of  Mahomerah  is  a  Turk  to-day  and 
a  Persian  to-morrow.  When  the  Turkish  tax-collector 
comes,  the  sheikh  crosses  the  river,  and  claims  to  be  a 
Persian;  when  the  Persian  tax-gatherer  arrives,  the  wily 


58  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

sheikh  returns  to  the  other  side  of  the  stream,  and  de- 
clares himself  a  Turk.  He  maintains  an  indej3endent 
sovereignty.  His  flag  is  red  and  white.  In  front  of  the 
palace  was  his  gun-boat,  which  fired  a  salute  when  we 
dipped  our  colors,  and  again  when  we  hoisted  them. 
His  palace  is  ornamented  with  a  pretty  colonnade,  and 
surrounded  with  forts.  Adjoining  the  palace  is  his  ha- 
rem, wherein  is  a  French  lady  of  much  culture,  and  once 
of  regal  beauty.  She  saw  him  and  loved  him;  and, 
dreaming  of  the  splendor  and  pleasures  portrayed  in  "  The 
Arabian  Nights,"  she  entered  his  harem.  Through  the 
latticed  windo\v  of  her  cell,  she  watched  us  as  we  passed. 

Not  fiir  from  Mahomerah  is  the  island  of  Mahasif,  and 
beyond  is  the  crescent-shaped  isle  of  Salihiyah,  covered 
with  palms.  Boats  filled  with  veiled  women  glided 
down  the  current.  Hour  after  hour  we  ran  along  green 
banks,  where  the  peach,  the  almond,  and  the  apricot  were 
in  blossom.  Within  the  beautiful  grove  stood  an  Arab 
robed  in  white,  and  on  his  brow  was  a  turban  of  brilliant 
colors.  Here  and  there,  native  boats  were  loaded  with 
dates  for  a  foreign  market. 

Soon  the  minarets  of  Busrah  were  in  sight.  We  had 
come  a  hundred  miles  from  Fao,  and  nineteen  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  Bombay.  The  first  stage  of  our  jour- 
ney was  ended.  Busrah  is  the  head  of  navigation  foi- 
ocean  steamers.  Four  Turkish  gun -boats,  a  transport 
filled  with  troops,  two  or  three  merchantmen,  and  many 
bughalows  were  at  anchor  in  the  harbor.  Our  coming 
had  been  announced  by  telegraph,  and  the  boatmen,  in 
their  small  bellems  and  larger  bughalows,  clamored  for 
our  baggage  and  for  the  steamer's  freight.  They  made 
fast  to  the  Biirmah^  but  the  powerful  current  swept  them 
away  amidst  their  loud  cursings  and  bitter  complaints. 

On  going  ashore  we  were  welcomed  by  Dr.  Dillion,  an 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  59 

English  gentleman  of  ripe  scliolarsliip,  and  now  acting  as 
quarantine  physician  under  the  Turkish  Government.  In 
his  yard  was  a  wild  boar  of  the  forest,  which  was  a  pet 
even  with  the  Moslems.  The  only  buildings  of  note  at 
the  landing  are  the  custom-house,  the  English  residency, 
and  the  quarters  of  Dr.  Dillion,  all  located  near  the  jetty 
for  the  convenience  of  commerce.  Busrah  is  the  chief 
distributing  port  for  all  the  cities,  towns,  and  Arab  en- 
campments on  the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates,  and  for  a 
thousand  miles  inland.  To  this  port  are  brought,  for 
transshipment  to  foreign  markets,  the  grain,  the  wool, 
and  dates  raised  in  the  interior;  and  here  the  cargoes  of 
the  ocean  steamers  and  sailing-vessels  are  transferred  to 
native  boats  engaged  in  the  inland  trade.  For  many 
years  the  English  had  the  monopoly  of  this  vast  trade, 
but  now  the  French  and  Germans  are  competing  for  com- 
mercial supremacy.  American  vessels  occasionally  come 
to  Busrah,  and  load  with  dates  for  the  United  States. 
Dates  are  the  principal  article  of  export,  and  it  is  esti- 
mated that  not  less  than  ten  thousand  tons  are  export- 
ed annually.  This  statement  was  not  difficult  to  credit 
after  having  seen  the  thriving  groves  of  the  date-palm, 
that  extend  for  a  hundred  miles  on  either  side  of  the 
Shaat-el-Arab. 

Entering  a  bellem,  we  were  rowed  up  a  beautifully 
embowered  stream  to  the  city  of  Busrah  proper.  The 
distance  is  less  than  three  miles,  and  the  scenery  is  most 
enchanting.  Along  the  banks  were  groves  of  palms  that 
cast  their  cooling  shadow  upon  the  smooth  waters  of  the 
rivulet.  The  air  was  perfumed  with  the  blossom  of  the 
orange,  the  lemon,  the  peach,  and  the  apricot.  So  dense 
was  the  foliage  in  places,  as  completely  to  intercept  the 
sun's  intense  rays.  As  we  ascended,  some  new  object 
claimed  our  attention,  and  only  to  please.     On  our  left 


60  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

was  a  garden  inclosed,  and  in  the  secluded  angle  of  the 
high  walls  thereof  stood  a  young  man  in  prayer.  Be- 
yond was  a  tomb  shaded  by  the  pomegranate  in  blos- 
som. Further  on,  a  bughalow  was  being  loaded  with 
henna,  wherewith  the  women  of  the  East  color  their  fin- 
ger-nails. Down  the  stream  came  an  ornamented  bel- 
lem  of  some  opulent  Turk.  It  was  pulled  by  twelve 
Zanzibar  slaves,  who  sung  merrily  as  they  rowed  swift- 
ly. Next  came  a  boat  filled  with  beautiful  Armenian 
ladies,  richly  attired  and  thinly  veiled. 

Soon  the  high  walls  of  the  city  "vvere  in  sight,  which 
are  eight  miles  in  circumference.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
irregular,  and  by  no  means  pleasant  to  the  smell.  The 
more  pretentious  buildings  are  constructed  of  brick,  and 
the  humbler  ones  of  mud.  The  bazaars  j^resented  a  busy 
scene ;  horses,  camels,  donkeys,  men,  and  women  jostled 
each  other  in  the  crowded  thoroughfares.  By  the  way- 
side sat  a  letter-writer,  ready  to  pen  a  billet-doux  for  a 
maiden  or  a  business  document  for  a  merchant.  Candies, 
sweetmeats,  perfumes,  and  drugs  were  displayed  for  sale. 
Piece  goods  from  England,  silks  from  France,  muslins 
from  Germany,  were  in  the  market.  Crossing  a  bridge, 
we  stopped  at  a  Turkish  coffee-house.  Around  the  walls 
were  benches  of  brick-work,  three  feet  high,  and  covered 
with  matting.  On  a  table  were  the  polished  brass  coffee- 
pots and  thimble-like  cups,  together  with  pipes  of  every 
description.  On  the  mats  lounged  the  Arab,  the  Turk, 
and  the  Persian,  sipping  the  delicious  Mocha  and  whifi:"- 
ing  the  bubl)le-bubble.  In  our  stroll  through  the  town 
we  passed  the  post-office,  where  the  Arabs  clamored  for 
their  mail  with  the  haste  and  noise  characteristic  of  more 
civilized  people.  Further  on  is  the  residence  of  the  gov- 
ernor, who,  for  a  Turk,  is  a  person  of  more  than  ordinary 
force  of  character.     Over  the  imposing  portal  was  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  61 

crescent  and  star,  and  at  the  entrance  stood  the  military 
guard  to  defend  the  palace  and  the  harem.  Near  the 
residence  of  his  excellency  is  the  office  of  the  British  In- 
dia Steamship  Navigation  Company.  Here  we  feasted 
on  dates  of  the  most  delicious  flavor;  and  here  we  saw  a 
cheetah/^  which  has  the  skin  of  a  leopard,  the  paws  of  a 
dos:,  and  the  mouth  of  a  tio;er.  It  is  trained  to  hunt  the 
deer,  whose  jugular  vein  it  cuts  with  its  razor-like  teeth, 
and  sucks  its  victim's  blood.  The  owner  had  it  for  a 
plaything,  but  its  playfulness  is  that  of  the  tiger-kitten ; 
for,  having  teased  it  above  measure,  it  sprung  upon  him 
with  glaring  eyes,  and  displayed  its  terrible  teeth. 

The  population  of  Busrah  is  composed  of  twenty 
Europeans,  and  twelve  thousand  Arabs,  Turks,  and  Per- 
sians. Those  from  Europe  are  chiefly  young  men,  whose 
love  of  adventure  or  prospects  of  a  speedy  fortune  in- 
duced them  to  leave  Christian  homes,  and  reside  in  a  com- 
munity destitute  of  the  refinements  and  happier  associa- 
tions of  the  West.  They  are  a  community  within  a  com- 
munity. They  have  nothing  in  common  with  the  Arabs, 
Their  pastime  sports,  their  literature,  their  religion,  are 
European.  As  to  morals,  the  odds  are  against  them,  and 
to  practice  the  better  teachings  of  childhood  is  a  difficult 
task. 

The  natives  of  Busrah  are  Moslems,  with  a  small  body 
of  Armenians.  Whatever  may  be  the  standard  of  morals 
among  the  latter,  they  tenaciously  adhere  to  the  doctrines 
of  their  creed  and  to  the  ceremonies  of  their  reliirion. 
They  are  a  light-hearted  people,  and  their  weddings  are 
celebrated  with  much  pomp  and  sumptuous  entertain- 
ments. 

But  modern  Busrah  is  far  inferior  in  size  and  elegance 

*  Felis  ji.data,  the  hunting  leopard. 


62  TRBONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

compared  ^vith  the  ancient  city.  The  latter  was  located 
about  eio;ht  miles  inland,  where  are  extensive  ruins  and 
the  remains  of  once  splendid  buildings.  The  prostrate 
column,  the  broken  arch,  the  ruined  colonnade,  are  the 
memorials  of  a  superior  architecture.  It  is  the  oj^inion 
of  some  that  those  remains  mark  the  site  of  the  residence 
of  the  wealthy  Barmecides  mentioned  in  the  "Arabian 
Nights,"  and  the  home  of  Sindbad  the  Sailor.  There  is 
still  standing  a  handsome  arch  with  a  lengthened  inscrip- 
tion thereon,  designating,  as  some  suppose,  the  tomb  of 
All  Barmecide.  Not  far  from  it  is  the  mausoleum  of  Zo- 
beir,  an  Arab  chief,  one  of  the  earliest  followers  of  Moham- 
med, and  who  was  slain  at  the  "  Battle  of  the  Camel,"  in 
A.D.  655,  which  was  fought  by  the  Mohammedans  for  the 
attainment  of  civil  power.  It  is  a  sacred  shrine  to  the 
Moslems,  "who  revere  the  memory  of  the  martyr  with  un- 
diminished admiration.  There  are,  however,  other  the- 
ories touching  the  antiquity  and  historic  significance  of 
these  ruins.  They  are  supposed  by  not  a  few  to  be  the 
I'emains  of  a  city  occupied  by  Chaldean  astronomers  and 
mathematicians  of  great  repute.  And  there  are  others 
who  maintain  that  there  was  located  tlie  ancient  Bus- 
sorah,  founded  by  the  Emperor  Trajan,  and  rebuilt  by 
the  Caliph  Omar  in  the  fourteenth  year  of  the  Hegira. 

Returning  to  our  bellem,  we  glided  down  the  embow- 
ered rivulet,  and,  waving  an  adieu  to  the  captain  and  of 
ficers  of  the  Burmali,  we  took  passage  on  the  City  of 
London  for  the  Garden  of  Eden. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEFEH.  63 


CHAPTER  11. 

Historic  Lands. — Anticipations  and  Emotions. — Steamer  City  of  London. — 
The  Three  Great  Rivers. — Confluence  of  the  Tigris  and  of  the  Euphrates. 
— Steaming  up  the  Sliaat-el-Arab. — The  Floods  Prevail. — Shepherds  and 
their  Flocks. — The  Garden  of  Eden. — Its  Appearance. — Inhabitants  ajid 
History.— Sail  up  the  Tigris. — Wild  Boars  of  the  Forest. — Daring  and 
Successful  Lion-hunt. — Tomb  of  the  Prophet  Ezra. — Scenes  on  the  Banks 
of  the  Tigris. — Grand  Mountains. — Arab  Villages. — Ruins  of  Ancient  Se- 
leucia  and  Ctesiphon. — First  View  of  Bagdad. — Guests  of  Captain  Hol- 
land.— Wonders  of  Bagdad. — The  People,  Bazaars,  Mosques,  Churches. 
Tombs,  Baths,  Jews,  and  Cliristians  of  the  City  of  "  The  Thousand  and 
One  Nights." — Turkish  Railroads. — Commerce  with  the  United  States. — 
American  Petroleum  the  Light  of  the  World. 

Standing  upon  the  threshold  of  the  most  ancient  and 
celebrated  lands  known  to  mankind,  it  was  with  no  ordi- 
nary interest  we  commenced  the  second  j)art  of  our  mem- 
orable journey.  We  were  within  fifty  miles  of  the  Gar- 
den of  Eden,  whose  bowers  of  delight  invited  our  pres- 
ence ;  whose  very  name  recalled  the  grandest,  saddest 
memories  of  our  race.  Near  us  flowed  the  histoi-ic  Ti- 
gris and  Euphrates,  "whose  banks  are  empires."  On  our 
left  were  the  vast  ruins  of  Babylon,  the  "  Golden  City," 
wherein  have  lived  in  glory,  wherein  have  died  in  shame, 
the  greatest  of  kings  and  warriors.  On  our  right  were 
the  Tomb  of  Ezra,  the  Prophet  of  the  Highest ;  the  re- 
mains of  Seleucia  and  Ctesiphon,  of  Greek  and  Parthian 
memory  ;  the  City  of  the  Caliphs,  the  "Abode  of  Peace," 
the  scene  of  the  fascinating  legends  in  "  The  Thousand 
and  One  Nig-hts." 

With  memories  and  emotions  awakened  by  such  a 
prospect,  we  left  Busrah  amidst  the  unrivaled  splendor 
of  an  Arabian  sunset.     The  full-orbed  moon  rose  as  the 


04  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

sun  declined,  and  the  stars  shone  with  unwonted  brill- 
iancy. The  evening  breeze  came  softly  through  the  feath- 
ery palms,  perfumed  with  the  breath  of  flowery  spring. 
All  nature  seemed  in  accord  with  the  sublimity  of  the 
thoughts  that  came  trooping  through  our  minds,  and  of 
the  emotions  that  animated  our  souls. 

We  were  passengers  on  board  the  City  of  London^  a 
large  name  for  a  small  steamer ;  but  the  Turks,  like  the 
French,  are  pleased  with  high-sounding  titles.  A  hun- 
dred and  ninety  feet  long,  twenty -six  feet  wide,  our 
steamer  drew  less  than  four  feet  of  water.  Her  register- 
ed tonnage  was  ninety  and  the  capacity  of  her  engine  was 
seventy-five  horse-power.  The  main  saloon  was  aft,  and 
therein  we  ate,  and  whiled  away  the  hours  in  useful  read- 
ing and  pleasant  conversation.  Our  state-room  was  on 
the  port-side,  and  measured  eight  by  eight.  The  furni- 
ture was  neither  abundant  nor  luxuriant.  On  two  sides 
were  wooden  bunks.  In  one  corner  was  a  very  plain  wash- 
stand,  and  over  it  a  small  looking-glass.  The  balance  of 
the  furniture  consisted  of  a  rickety  table  and  two  well- 
worn  mattresses.  According  to  Oriental  custom,  we 
were  required  to  provide  ourselves  with  pillows  and 
blankets ;  for  a  native  of  the  East  never  travels  without 
his  bedding,  and  each  morning  "  takes  up  his  bed  and 
walks."  It  was  such  a  rarity  to  have  seven  cabin-pas- 
sengers on  the  Gity  of  London^  and  three  of  them  ladies, 
that  there  was  a  mutual  agreement  between  passengers 
and  ofiicers  to  accept  the  situation,  and  be  agreeable  un- 
der difficulties.  And  never  was  agreement  more  agree- 
ably kept:  the  ladies  smiled  at  inconveniences  that  could 
not  be  avoided,  and  the  gentlemen  illustrated  by  their 
moderation  that "  man  needs  but  little,  and  not  that  lit- 
tle long."  Fortunately  for  our  comfort.  Captain  Cowley 
proved  himself  a  gentleman  whose  kindness  and  polite- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  65 

ness  knew  no  cessation;  whose  intelligent  conversation 
on  the  history  and  legends  of  the  Tigris  contributed  to 
our  entertainment.  He  had  happily  married  the  charm- 
ing daughter  of  Captain  Holland,  who  for  forty  years 
had  sailed  between  Busrah  and  Bagdad,  and  who  is 
called  "  The  Wise  Man  of  the  Tio^ris."  In  addition  to  the 
seven  foreigners  on  board,  there  were  hundreds  of  Ori- 
entals, who  occupied  every  available  space  on  the  upper 
deck,  where  they  spread  their  beds,  cooked  and  ate,  sung 
and  swore,  prayed  and  gambled.  Some  were  merchants 
from  India,  some  were  Banian  bankers  from  Muscat,  some 
were  Persian  pilgrims  from  Bushire ;  and  conspicuous 
among  them  all  was  a  venerable  Jew,  bound  for  the  tomb 
of  Ezra  the  Prophet. 

Our  progress  during  the  night  had  been  slow,  as  the 
current  is  strong  and  rapid.  The  morning  light  revealed 
a  picturesque  but  sorry  sight.  The  warm  spring  rains 
had  melted  the  snow  on  the  mountains  to  the  east  and 
north,  causing  the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates  to  overflow 
their  banks,  and  the  Shaat-el-Arab  to  flood  the  country. 
The  scene  recalled  tliose  plaintive  words  of  the  inspired 
bard :  "  The  floods  have  lifted  up,  O  Lord,  the  floods 
have  lifted  up  their  voice ;  the  floods  lift  up  their  waves." 
On  either  side,  the  palm-groves  were  dense,  and  in  their 
branches  the  doves  had  taken  refuge.  On  the  summit 
of  a  mound  above  the  water  stood  a  solitary  Arab,  and 
near  him  sat  the  serious  pelican.  The  shepherds  had 
been  driven  from  their  folds,  and  had  led  their  flocks  to 
the  higher  ground.  On  our  left  was  a  submerged  tomb, 
shaded  by  three  young  trees,  and  near  it  a  deserted  vil- 
lage, whose  inhabitants  had  fled  to  the  distant  hills. 
The  accumulated  waters  rushed  by  with  accelerated 
speed,  and  against  the  united  force  of  three  rivers  we 
ascended  slowly  to  man's  primeval  abode. 

5 


Q(j  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

It  was  eii>:bt  o'clock  in  the  mornino;  when  we  saw  for 
the  first  time  the  Garden  of  Eden.  Flowing  toward  us 
on  our  left  was  the  Euphrates,  clear  and  rapid ;  flowing 
toward  us  on  our  right  was  the  Tigris,  muddy  and  swift. 
Directly  in  front  of  us  was  the  peninsula  of  Chaldea,  at 
the  terminus  of  which  is  the  confluence  of  these  two  his- 
toric rivers.  On  the  extreme  point  of  this  tongue  of 
land  is  the  Turkish  town  of  Kurnah,  with  mosque  and 
minaret,  with  arcaded  buildings  and  huts  of  the  poor, 
with  tall  flag-staft'  and  the  white  tents  of  the  soldiers  of 
the  sultan.  As  we  approached,  the  Eu^^hrates  opened 
wide  to  our  view,  while  yet  the  Tigris  remained  hidden ; 
but  in  a  few  minutes  the  latter  was  as  fully  seen.  It 
was,  indeed,  a  grand  and  never-to-be-forgotten  view. 
The  sun  shone  clear  and  warm  as  we  neared  the  Tigris 
side.  Turkish  soldiei's  in  blue,  and  in  red  fez  caps,  lined 
the  margin  of  the  river;  Arab  men  in  white  and  Arab 
women  in  black  gave  variety  to  the  scene,  and  welcomed 
our  approach. 

We  landed  in  Eden,  and  stood  upon  its  sacred  soil. 
Walking  to  the  utmost  point  of  the  peninsula,  so  nar- 
row and  dry,  I  stretched  my  right  hand  over  the  Eu- 
phrates and  my  left  hand  over  the  Tigris,  while  at  my 
feet  flowed  the  Shaat-el-Arab,  whose  course  is  to  the  sea. 
Returning,  we  wandered  through  the  palm-groves,  crossed 
the  brooklets  that  flow  through  the  garden,  watched  the 
doves  as  they  flew  from  tree  to  tree,  listened  to  the  birds 
of  paradise  carol  the  melody  of  their  song,  read  the  sec- 
ond chaj^ter  of  Genesis,  and  sung  the  old  doxology  in  the 
palmy  groves  of  Eden.  Ascending  to  the  balcony  of  an 
ancient  minaret  fifty  feet  high,  we  looked  out  on  fields 
o-reen  with  grass  and  beautiful  with  flowers,  over  an  area 
of  many  miles  whereon  are  the  date-palm  and  feathery 
bamboo,  and  on  the  four  great  rivers — the  Euphrates, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  67 

the  Tigris,  the  Jaab,  and  the  Shaat-el-Arab.  Oh,  what 
a  spot  is  this  for  paradise,  at  the  junction  of  these  mighty 
rivers,  in  this  delightful  climate,  in  this  centre  of  empire  ! 

It  is  a  place  of  unsurpassed  loveliness,  where  our  first 
parents  dwelt  in  the  innocency  of  their  new  creation. 
Its  identity  has  been  preserved  through  the  lapse  of  the 
centuries,  and  is  the  only  spot  on  earth  that  bears  the 
name  of  Eden  ;  other  places  have  been  designated,  but 
without  corresponding  j^roof  Men  have  sought  for  the 
Garden  of  Eden  from  China  to  the  Canary  Isles,  from  the 
Mountains  of  the  Moon  to  the  snows  of  Northern  Rus- 
sia. Origen  and  Ambrosius  placed  it  in  the  third  heav- 
ens ;  Moses  Bar  Cepha,  in  midair  between  earth  and  sky, 
Reland  and  Rosenmiiller,  in  Armenia,  near  the  sources 
of  the  Euphrates  and  the  Tigris.  Some  have  placed  it 
within  the  orbit  of  the  moon,  others  in  th.e  moon  itself; 
some  on  the  earth,  others  under  the  earth,  and  others 
within  the  earth ;  some  have  fixed  it  at  the  North  Pole, 
others  at  the  South  Pole ;  some  in  Tartary,  some  in  China, 
some  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  some  in  the  island  of 
Ceylon ;  some  in  Mesopotamia,  others  in  Persia,  Babylo- 
nia, Assyria,  Palestine,  and  in  Arabia ;  some  in  Syria, 
others  in  Africa,  under  the  equator;  some  in  Scandinavia, 
others  on  the  shores  of  the  Baltic."^  Some,  to  be  doubly 
sure,  have  assumed  that  the  whole  earth  was  an  Eden, 
and  "  eastward  was  the  Garden,  forty  miles  in  circumfer- 
'ence."  Not  a  few  have  denied  it  a  terrestrial  existence, 
and  asserted  that  the  Biblical  account  is  not  historical, 
but  spiritual.  Moses,  however,  is  too  definite  and  cir- 
cumstantial to  be  understood  as  dealing  in  allegory. 

But,  by  common  consent,  all  the  theories  are  reduced 
to  two;  and  the  advocates  of  both  a<rree  that  the  Gar- 

*  Clark. 


68  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

den  of  Eden  was  somewhere  in  the  valley  of  the  Euphra- 
tes, either  at  the  source  or  at  the  mouth  of  that  historic 
river.  The  distance  between  the  two  points  is  less  than 
two  thousand  miles.  All  are  in  accord  that  this  great 
valley  was  the  cradle  of  humanity.  Somewhere  within 
its  boundaries  the  primeval  man  rose  at  the  divine  com- 
mand. Herein  was  the  abode  of  Noah  and  his  sons,  an- 
tecedent and  subsequent  to  the  Deluge.  Herein  were 
the  huntino;.o;rounds  of  Nimrod,  whose  name  is  a  house- 
hold  word  throughout  this  memorable  valley.  Herein 
lived  Job  and  Terah  and  Abraham,  and  thence  their  de- 
scendants spread  out  over  all  the  earth.  All  the  more 
recent  excavations  at  Babylon  and  Nineveh  confirm  this 
fact.  All  the  cuneifoi-m  inscriptions  thus  far  deciphered 
establish  this  general  belief  All  the  local  traditions  of 
the  people,  whether  Jew,  Moslem,  or  Christian,  are  in  ac- 
cord with  this  conclusion. 

Those  who  suppose  that  Eden  was  near  the  sources  of 
the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates  hold  that  the  ancient  Pison 
is  the  modern  Phasis,  a  river  of  Colchis,  which  empties 
into  the  Euxine  Sea,  and  that  the  Gihon  is  the  Araxes, 
which  flows  into  the  Caspian  Sea.  Those  who  maintain 
that  Eden  was  at  the  mouth  of  the  Euphrates  have  the 
advanta2:e  of  a  "local  habitation  and  a  name,"  and  the 
greater  advantage  in  the  certainty  that  the  ancient  Hid- 
dekel  is  the  modern  Tigris,  and  that  the  Euphrates  of 
the  Bible  is  the  Phrat  of  the  Arabs.  And  some  have 
gone  so  far  as  to  claim  that  the  River  Jaab,  which  emp- 
ties into  the  Tigris  near  Kurnah,  is  the  Pison  of  Script- 
ure, and  that  the  Shaat-el-Arab  is  the  Gihon  mentioned 
by  Moses.  And  with  the  lights  w^e  now  have,  it  does 
no  violence  to  the  sacred  text  to  suppose  that  Eden  is 
descriptive  of  a  vast  section  of  country;  that  eastward 
within  that  section  was  planted  the  Garden  of  Delights, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  69 

and  that  through  that  section  flowed  a  river  which  parted 
in  its  course  and  formed  four  rivers. 

At  present  the  evidence  ^preponderates  in  favor  of  the 
southern  location.  Discoveries  made  within  the  last  dec- 
ade tend  to  confirm  the  supposition  that  the  primeval 
abode  of  man  was  near  the  confluence  of  the  Euphrates 
and  the  Tigris ;  and  it  is  not  too  much  to  anticipate  the 
exhuming  of  inscribed  tablets  which  will  fully  establish 
this  belief.  And,  although  after  the  \^)^q  of  so  many 
centuries,  exact  correspondence  in  topography  is  not  to 
be  expected,  yet,  guided  by  the  general  features  of  the 
scene  rather  than  by  the  minuter  ones,  the  present  tradi- 
tional Garden  of  Eden  may  be  accepted  until  another 
has  been  discovered,  and  its  identity  more  clearly  proved. 
Fully  believing  in  this,  I  left  Eden,  singing  in  mournful 
numbers,  with  Mother  Eve, 

"  Must  I  leave  thee,  paradise  ?   thus  leave 
Thee,  native  soil — these  happy  walks  and  shades. 
Fit  haunt  of  gods  ?   where  I  had  hoped  to  spend, 
Quiet  though  sad,  the  respite  of  that  day, 
That  must  be  mortal  to  us  both.     O  flow'rs, 
That  never  will  in  other  climate  grow. 
My  early  visitation,  and  my  last 
At  ev'n,  which  I  bred  up  with  tender  hand. 
From  the  first  op'ning  bud,  and  gave  ye  names, 
Who  now  shall  rear  ye  to  the  sun,  or  rank 
Your  tribes,  and  water  from  th'  ambrosial  fount  ? 
Thee  lastly,  nuptial  bow'r,  by  me  adorn'd 
With  what  to  sight  or  smell  was  sweet;  from  thee 
How  shall  I  part,  and  whither  wander  down 
Into  a  lower  world,  to  this  obscure 
And  wild  ?  how  shall  we  breathe  in  other  air 
Less  pure,  accustom'd  to  immortal  fruits  ?"* 

A  spot  SO  delightfid  as  this,  a  site  so  fjxvorable  for  a 
city,  did  not  fail  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  royal  con- 

*  "  Paradise  Lost,"  book  ix. 


70  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

qiierors  of  earlier  days  and  allure  tliem  to  its  bowers. 
On  this  beautiful  peninsula,  laved  by  two  majestic  livers, 
Seleucus  Nicator,  successor  to  Alexander  the  Great,  built 
a  city  in  honor  of  his  queen,  and  in  the  ancient  annals 
the  city  is  called  Asjpamea.  And  from  the  days  of  the 
Macedonian  queen,  the  place  has  never  been  uninhab- 
ited. It  is  now  called  Kurnah,  and  is  not  only  a  large 
military  station  held  by  the  Turks,  but  is  the  home  of 
two  thousand  people  who  represent  many  nations.  And, 
as  a  link  connecting  the  present  with  the  past,  the  tele- 
graph-wires are  here  stretched  across  the  Euphi'ates;  and 
from  the  Garden  of  Eden  I  could  send  a  telegram  to 
any  part  of  Christendom. 

At  no  other  point  in  their  long  and  winding  course 
can  the  two  great  rivers  that  meet  here  be  viewed  to 
better  advantao-e.  Havins;  their  source  in  the  same 
mountainous  region,  they  flow  southward  through  a  val- 
ley densely  populated,  rich  in  natural  jiroductions,  and 
grand  in  historic  associations.  With  its  source  in  the 
mountains  of  Armenia  near  Ezroom,  and  not  far  from  the 
shores  of  the  Euxine,  the  Euphrates  unites  three  impor- 
tant seas,  which,  without  it,  would  have  no  water  com- 
munication. Seventeen  hundred  and  eighty  miles  long, 
its  breadth  varies  from  ninety  to  four  hundred  yards. 
In  some  places  it  spreads  out  into  a  noble  lake,  but  in 
the  Lemliin  marshes  it  is  not  eighty  yards  wide.  Ordi- 
narily the  current  is  three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour,  but 
in  the  flood  the  velocity  is  increased  to  six.  It  abounds 
in  fish,  and  is  so  pleasant  to  the  taste  that  the  people 
fondly  call  it  "The  Water  of  Desire."  Boats  have  as- 
cended ten  hundred  and  thirty  miles  above  its  mouth. 
It  is  now  navigable  to  Baulus,  and  the  Turks  have  found 
it  profitable  to  place  thereon  a  line  of  steamers.  Were 
it  the  possession  of  a  Christian  nation,  it  would  soon  be- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  71 

come  the  channel  of  an  immense  trade.  Its  banks  are 
dotted  with  towns,  among  the  most  important  of  which 
is  Hillah,  in  the  south,  and  Birijik,  in  the  north. 

The  two  principal  sources  of  the  Tigris  are  in  the 
southern  slopes  of  the  Anti-Taurus  range  in  Northern 
Armenia.  Eleven  hundred  and  forty-six  miles  in  length, 
its  average  breadth  is  six  hundred  feet,  and  its  aver- 
age velocity  is  four  and  a  half  miles  per  hour.  It  is 
sometimes  navisfable  for  rafts  from  Diarbekir  to  Mo- 
sul,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  ninety-six  miles,  and 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year  from  Mosul  to  the  sea.  In  the 
flood- time  the  distance  is  made  in  four  days,  and  the 
people  have  christened  it  "The  Cheap  Camelier."  Ves- 
sels drawing  from  three  to  four  feet  of  water  can  ascend 
as  far  as  Tekrit,  and  boats  properly  constructed  might 
reach  Mosul,  opposite  ancient  Nineveh.  Two  lines  of 
steamers  are  now  running  from  Busrah  to  Bagdad,  a  dis- 
tance of  five  hundred  miles,  and  connect  at  the  former 
place  with  steamers  from  British  India.  Chief  among 
its  many  tributaries  are  the  Jaab,  below  Kurnah  ;  the 
Adhuen,  above  Bagdad ;  and  the  Great  and  Little  Zab, 
near  Mosul,  all  of  which  are  the  channels  of  a  large  in- 
land trade.  The  Turkish  Government,  which  neglects 
every  thing  but  the  collection  of  taxes,  has  so  far  neg- 
lected to  keep  the  banks  in  repair  that  the  river  has  be- 
gun to  desert  its  bed,  and  is  now  forming  vast  swamps 
over  the  low"  country,  which  was  formerly  rescued  by 
the  Babylonians  by  the  construction  of  immense  lakes. 

Resuming  our  voyage,  we  were  now  on  the  Tigris,  and 
had  the  current  of  one  river  less  against  Avhich  to  con- 
tend. We  were  bound  for  Bagdad,  the  "City  of  the 
Caliphs,"  five  hundred  miles  to  the  north-east.  For  two 
miles  we  had  still  in  view  the  otovcs  and  tents  of  Kur- 
nah;  but  at  the  end  of  that  distance  there  is  a  canal  sep- 


72  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

arating  Eden  from  the  rest  of  the  peninsula,  and  uniting 
the  waters  of  the  Tigris  with  those  of  the  Euphrates. 
The  land  north  of  the  canal  is  a  trackless  desert  of  many 
miles  in  extent,  alluded  to  by  the  Prophet  Joel:  "The 
land  is  as  the  Garden  of  Eden  before  them,  and  behind 
them  a  desolate  wilderness."* 

During  the  morning  we  passed  vast  sections  of  land 
covered  with  water,  wherein  the  cattle  stood  knee-deep, 
and  from  which  the  shepherds  had  taken  refuge  to  some 
high,  green  knolls.  Beyond  and  on  our  right  were  vil- 
lages surrounded  with  rice -fields,  and  rich  pastures  in 
which  the  herds  were  browsing.  On  our  left  was  the 
mud  tomb  of  Abu  Khalkhal,  shaded  by  a  few  palms,  and 
which  is  a  shrine  to  which  the  Moslems  make  an  annual 
pilgrimage.  At  noon  we  steamed  along  a  dreary  region, 
dotted  with  sand-hills,  with  here  and  there  clumps  of 
thick  bushes.  Hundreds  of  jackals  were  running  in 
every  direction,  frightened  by  the  whistle  of  our  steamer. 
Their  color  is  that  of  the  fox ;  their  form  is  that  of  the 
dog.  Over  and  around  us  flew  flocks  of  crows,  with 
white  bodies  and  black  wings.  Wild  boars  were  now 
seen  in  large  numbers — five,  six,  and  ten  in  a  herd — run- 
ning pell-mell  to  all  points  of  the  compass.  Their  move- 
ment was  exceedingly  violent,  and  their  motion  a  tumult- 
uous leap.  Armed  with  rifles,  we  shot  two  of  one  herd 
— one  was  shot  through  the  hind-quarters,  and  sunk  down 
at  once ;  the  other  was  shot  through  the  shoulder,  and 
turned  a  somersault.  The  latter  rose  and  ran  for  a  pond 
of  water,  on  the  margin  of  which  he  defiantly  stood  for 
a  few  seconds,  and  then  gradually  sunk  down.  A  boat 
was  sent  ashore  to  secure  the  game ;  but  as  our  men  ap- 
proached  the   latter,  he   rose  and   offered  battle,  for  a 

*  Joel  ii.,  3. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  73 

wounded  boar  is  a  desperate  antagonist,  and  will  fight 
to  the  deatb.  But  another  shot  ended  his  career,  and 
both  were  brought  on  board  the.  steamer.  They  w^ere 
enormous  creatures ;  in  form  like  our  swine,  but  larger, 
stronger,  and  with  coarser  bristles  of  an  iron  gray.  The 
head  of  each  was  elongated,  the  snout  was  pointed,  the 
tusks  were  large,  and  were  a  deadly  weapon  :  "  The  boar 
out  of  the  wood  doth  waste  it.""'^"     That  night  we  had 


( ,1,/ 


'  '\  \  -  J  III  / 


WILD   BOAR   OF   THE   TIGRIS. 


boar  flesh  for  dinner,  and  the  roasted  spare-ribs  were 
excellent,  though  the  odor  was  a  little  strong.  As  my 
share  of  the  spoils  of  the  hunt,  I  claimed  the  jaws  with 
their  enormous  tusks,  to  illustrate  the  above  Psalm,  and 
to  adorn  my  cabinet  of  Oriental  curiosities. 

As  we  advanced,  there  w^as  on  either  side  a  boundless 
view  over  rich  prairie-lands,  whereon  were  numberless 

*  Psalm  Ixxxviii.,  13. 


74  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

flocks  of  sheep,  and  goats,  and  black  buftaloes,  and  many 
reed  tents,  the  dwelling-place  of  the  shepherds.  This  is 
one  of  the  richest  sections  of  all  the  East,  abounding  in 
wild  and  domestic  animals,  and  in  a  variety  of  birds. 
Swans,  ducks,  geese,  snipes,  pigeons,  bitterns,  and  birds 
of  the  ortolan  species,  were  seen  in  abundance,  while 
a  sight  of  the  flying-fox,  of  gazelles,  of  boars,  tigers,  and 
lions,  was  a  common  occurrence. 

Not  far  from  the  Tomb  of  Ezra  occurred  one  of  the 
most  darino"  and  successful  lion -hunts  that  have  ever 
taken  place  on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris.  In  the  dim  twi- 
light of  the  morning,  three  full-grown  lions  were  discov- 
ered on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  and  about  a  mile 
ahead  of  the  steamer.  The  alarm  was  given,  and  in  a  mo- 
ment intense  excitement  prevailed  on  board.  The  captain 
was  notified,  the  speed  of  the  steamer  was  lessened,  guns 
and  rifles  were  instantly  loaded  for  the  coming  encounter. 
Attracted  by  the  approach  of  the  steamer,  the  lions  had 
stoj^ped,  and  one,  more  daring  than  the  others,  with  a 
bound  leaped  into  the  river,  and  attempted  to  reach 
the  vessel.  The  sight  paralyzed  with  fear  many  of  the 
natives  on  board,  but  a  rifle-shot,  fired  by  the  super- 
cargo, proved  mortal  to  the  courageous  beast,  and  the 
launch  was  immediately  sent  to  secure  the  carcass. 
Frightened  by  the  report  of  the  rifle,  the  other  lions 
turned  and  ran  along  the  margin  of  the  river.  Under 
a  full  head  of  steam,  the  City  of  London  soon  came  up 
abreast  with  the  fugitives,  who  halted,  and  boldly  stood 
their  ground,  ready  to  receive  their  pursuers.  But  a  shot 
fired  by  the  captain  killed  one  instantly,  and  a  second 
shot  wounded  the  other  in  the  leg.  With  a  thundering 
roar  that  shook  the  earth,  the  wounded  beast  sprung 
over  the  dead  body  of  her  companion,  and,  with  open 
mouth,  turned  her  head  toward  the  boat,  and  challenged 


A   LION   HUNT. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  77 

another  onset;  but  a  well-directed  shot  discharged  by 
the  siij)e]"cargo  proved  fatal  to  the  proud  and  defiant 
creature,  who  fell  near  her  dead  companion.  The  steam- 
er now  ran  along  the  bank,  and  the  prey  was  brought 
on  board.  They  were  three  lionesses,  and  in  one  Avere 
found  four  cubs.  But  the  excitement  was  not  to  end  so 
suddenly.  All  agreed  that  the  male  lion  must  be  near. 
Every  eye  was  on  the  watch.  Each  inlet  and  islet  was 
carefully  scanned.  The  glass  was  brought  to  bear  on 
each  moving  object.  Nor  was  the  search  in  vain,  for 
within  a  mile  from  the  scene  of  the  first  encounter,  an 
enormous  male  lion  was  seen  a  thousand  yards  ahead 
and  two  hundred  yards  inland.  He  was  on  a  small 
island,  crouching  among  the  bushes.  At  first  he  was 
taken  to  Vje  a  dog,  as  an  Arab  encampment  was  near  the 
spot ;  but  the  glass  revealed  the  fact  that  he  was  an  im- 
mense male  lion,  whose  three  companions  had  been  slain 
in  his  absence.  His  mane  was  long  and  thick,  and,  when 
discovered,  he  was  leisurely  wagging  his  bushy  tail.  A 
shot  aroused  him ;  a  second  ball,  falling  near  him,  made 
him  furious ;  and,  with  a  thundering  roar  and  a  mighty 
bound,  he  charged  at  the  ship,  and  proudly  stood  at  the 
edge  of  the  islet,  as  if  defying  any  one  to  land.  His  ap- 
pearance was  frightful  to  behold.  A  ball  struck  him 
on  the  fore-leg,  which  caused  him  to  retreat ;  but  on  be- 
ing hit  on  the  hind-quarter  by  a  second  shot,  he  instantly 
returned  to  the  edge  of  the  bank,  and  presented  an  aspect 
of  the  utmost  rage.  There  was  something  grand  and  ter- 
rible in  his  attitude.  He  was  the  impersonation  of  fury. 
His  eyes  glared  like  balls  of  fire.  He  shook  his  mane 
in  terror,  and  with  his  tail  he  lashed  his  sides  in  anger. 
Frantic  from  pain,  his  roar  was  terrible,  and  sent  a  sense 
of  horror  to  the  soul.  Though  severely  wounded,  he  re- 
mained undaunted,  and  seemed  to  challenge  his  pursuers 


78  TMBONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

to  a  closer  combat.  Had  not  the  water  intervened  be- 
tween liini  and  them,  some  one  of  their  number  would 
have  fallen  a  victim  to  his  infuriated  power.  As  he 
stood  there,  he  presented  a  grand  sight ;  but  one  soon 
to  end.  A  third  ball  penetrated  his  back.  It  was  his 
death -wound.  For  a  few  seconds  he  maintained  his 
proud  and  defiant  position,  as  if  thinking  whether  to 
yield  in  the  unequal  contest,  or  longer  resist  his  foes. 
But  death  soon  relieved  him  of  pain,  and  his  pursuers  of 
a  gallant  foe.  Sinking  slowly  to  the  ground,  he  uttered 
one  more  groan,  deep  and  muffled,  and  the  lion-king  of 
the  Tigris  was  dead. 

The  captain  and  his  men  landed,  but,  half  suspicious 
that  he  was  not  dead,  they  cautiously  appi'oached  to  as- 
certain the  effect  of  their  well-directed  shots.  It  re- 
quired five  stalwart  men  to  drag  the  dead  lion  down  to 
the  margin  of  the  river.  He  weighed  four  hundred  and 
twenty  pounds.  His  height  was  three  feet  and  ten 
inches,  and  he  measured  six  feet  and  seven  inches  in 
length.  His  mane  was  five  inches  long,  and  the  length 
of  his  tail  was  nearly  three  feet.  He  and  his  compan- 
ions resembled  in  color  the  African  lion,  and  their  ap- 
pearance on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris  is  not  easy  to  ex- 
plain. It  is  supposed,  however,  that  their  lair  had  been 
reached  by  the  floods,  and  having  been  driven  therefrom 
by  the  water,  they  had  sought  refuge  on  the  higher 
ground.  Had  they  not  been  discovered  and  killed  by 
Captain  Cowley  and  his  men,  they  would  have  swum  the 
river  under  cover  of  the  night,  and  attacked  the  neigh- 
boring shepherds  and  their  flocks. 

Having  passed  a  large  town  of  reed  huts,  where  the 
natives  were  repairing  the  levee  to  prevent  an  incursion 
of  the  Avaters,  we  came  to  the  Tomb  of  Ezra,  the  Pi'ophet 
of  the  Hio-hest.     This  time-honored  mausoleum  is  an  im- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


79 


mense  structure,  crowned  with  a  beautiful  dome,  which 
is  incased  with  green  porcelain  tiles,  and  surmounted 
with  a  gilded  circle  representing  the  sun.  It  is  con- 
structed of  yellow  bricks,  and  ornamented  Avith  arched 
entrances  and  balconies,  from  which  the  Hebre\7  chil- 
dren greeted  us  as  we  landed.  Five  noble  palms  shade 
the  final  resting-place  of  the  learned  scribe.  Over  the 
door-way  are  two  tablets  of  black  marble,  whereon  are 
inscriptions  in  Hebrew.  Within  and  beneath  the  dome 
is  a  carved  cenotaph,  covered  with  rich  green  cloth 
fringed  with  gold.     On  it  are  white  and  green  banners ; 


TOMB   OF   EZRA. 


at  each  corner  is  a  carved  urn,  emblem  of  the  dead;  and 
near  it  is  a  lamp  that  ever  burns.  Beneath  the  ceno- 
taph is  the  tomb  containing  the  ashes  of  the  holy 
prophet,  and  on  it  are  slips  of  white  paper,  whereon  are 
written  the  prayers  of  Jewish  pilgrims.  The  floor  of 
the  mausoleum  is  paved  with  blocks  of  white,  black,  and 
green  marble.  The  walls  are  inlaid  with  porcelain  of 
many  colors,  arranged  in  the  form  of  stars.  On  the  edge 
of  the  panels  are  stars  embossed,  composed  of  small  mir- 
rors, and  high  up  in  the  centre  of  the  dome  is  an  im- 
mense star  similarly  made.  Here  and  there  on  the  in- 
terior walls  are  quotations  fi'om  the  Hebrew  Scriptures. 


80  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

In  tlie  wall  and  facins;  the  east  is  a  closet  wlierein  is 
kept  a  copy  of  the  Law,  and  over  this  Holy  of  Holies  is 
a  representation  of  the  seven-branched  gold  candlestick 
of  the  sanctuary. 

It  was  with  no  ordinary  interest  that  I  stood  by  the 
dust  of  one  so  deservedly  renowned  in  sacred  history. 
Next  to  Moses,  Ezra  is  held  in  the  highest  esteem  by 
the  Hebrew  people.  In  learning  he  was  the  equal  of 
the  great  Jewish  Lawgiver,  and  second  only  to  him  in 
his  influence  over  the  relig^ious  thouo-ht  of  their  nation. 
To  him  is  ascribed  the  authorship  of  the  books  of  the 
Chronicles,  of  Ezra,  of  Nehemiah,  and  of  Esther.  He  was 
"a  ready  scribe  of  the  law  of  Moses,"  and  rewrote  the 
Old  Testament  from  memory.  He  restored,  corrected, 
arranged,  and  settled  the  canon  of  the  Old  Testament 
Scriptures,  and  edited  the  sacred  volume,  and  then  wrote 
the  whole  in  the  Chaldaic  character,  for  the  use  of  those 
of  his  brethren  who  refused  to  I'eturn  with  him  from 
Babylon  to  Jerusalem.  To  him  belongs  the  honor  of 
establishing  synagogue  worship  in  every  town  in  Jewry, 
and  of  introducing  the  practice  of  reading  therein  the 
Law  and  the  Prophets.  And  such  was  his  influence 
with  King  Artaxerxes  Longimauus,  that  he  was  per- 
mitted to  go  to  Jerusalem  with  great  wealth  and  power 
to  restore  the  worship  of  the  true  God,  and  to  prepare 
for  the  return  of  his  captive  countrymen.  His  first  jour- 
ney occupied  four  months,  and  he  was  everywhere  re- 
ceived with  the  distinction  due  a  royal  messenger.  After 
his  return  to  Babylon,  he  received  permission  to  make  a 
second  journey  to  his  beloved  Jerusalem,  and  it  was  on 
his  return  from  this  second  tour  that  he  died  at  Zamzu- 
rau,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Tigris,  where  his  tomb  now 
is.  The  flict  of  his  burial  here  is  confirmed  by  the  Tal- 
mud, and  by  Rabbi  Benjamin  of  Tudela,  who  visited  his 
sepulchre  in  a.d.  1173. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  81 

Tlie  custodians  of  the  mausoleum  are  Jews,  the  de- 
scendants of  those  carried  captive  into  Babylon.  In 
dress  and  thrift  they  appeared  superior  to  their  Arab 
neighbors.  The  Hebrew  women  are  extremely  beauti- 
ful. There  was  one  whose  features  were  worthy  the 
pencil  of  Raphael  the  divine.  Hers  was  a  Jewish  face, 
exquisite  in  outline,  lovely  in  expression,  and  beaming 
with  intelligence.  Hither  the  Jews  make  an  annual  pil- 
grimage to  offer  their  prayers,  and  fondly  kiss  the  tomb 
that  contains  the  dust  of  him  whom  they  revere.  A 
venerable  Jew  of  three-score  years  and  ten  had  come 
with  us  from  Bombay,  and  approached  the  shrine  with 
uncovered  head  and  tenderly  kissed  the  cenotaph.  Ad- 
joining the  tomb  is  a  large  caravansary  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  Hebrew  pilgrims  who  come  from  afar. 
To  the  north  of  the  mausoleum  is  a  Turkish  fort,  and 
the  governor  in  command  extorts  large  sums  from  the 
pilgrims  who  come  to  worship  at  the  sepulchre  of  their 
prophet. 

The  air  grew  chilly  as  the  night  approached.  The 
Arabs  had  kindled  blazing  fires  in  their  encampments, 
around  which  they  stood -in  groups.  They  are  nomads, 
who  wander  from  place  to  place  in  quest  of  pasture. 
They  are  poor,  and  lead  a  miserable  life ;  yet  here  their 
fathers  roamed  in  the  centuries  by-gone,  and  here  they 
themselves  dwell  in  the  shepherd's  rude  tent.  Their 
tents  are  constructed  of  a  large  coarse  reed,  mixed  with 
the  tenacious  clay  of  the  valley,  and  covered  with  the 
black  hides  of  their  native  buffalo,  or  a  coarse  brown 
cloth  made  of  camel's  hair.  Their  flocks  of  sheep,  goats, 
and  buffaloes  are  kept  for  the  milk  they  yield,  and  out 
of  it  large  quantities  of  butter  and  cheese  are  produced. 
They  exchange  the  produce  of  their  flocks  for  cloth  and 
other  necessary  articles,  which  are  brought  to  their  en- 

6 


82  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

campraents  by  nativ^e  merchants  who  trade  along  the 
coast. 

A  cold  rain  began  to  fall,  and  a  stiff  north-west  wind 
commenced  to  blow  as  the  light  of  day  faded  from  our 
view.  As  neither  moon  nor  stars  were  visible,  which  are 
necessary  guides  to  safe  navigation  on  the  tortuous  Ti- 
gris, we  were  compelled  to  anchor  for  the  night.  Our 
anchorage  was  at  the  "  Devil's  Elbow,"  the  most  difficult 
and  dangerous  curve  in  the  river.  All  felt  the  chilly  air, 
and  the  native  women  and  children  on  the  upper  deck 
suffered  much  during  the  dreary  night.  The  cold  rain 
continued  the  next  day,  and  the  vast  treeless  prairies 
looked  desolate  enouo:h.  Throusfhout  the  mornins;  we 
passed  a  succession  of  Bedouin  encampments,  where  were 
immense  herds  of  horses  and  yellow  cattle,  and  groups 
of  naked  children,  who  shouted  their  glee  at  our  ap- 
proach. At  noon  we  were  driven  ashore  by  a  powerful 
current,  and  so  damaged  our  starboard  wheel  as  to  delay 
us  for  an  hour  to  make  repairs.  As  we  ascended,  the 
Tigris  became  more  tortuous.  There  were  points  where 
we  turned  at  right  angles  to  our  course,  and  at  times  the 
curvature  was  even  greater  than  that.  As  the  crow  flies, 
the  distance  between  Kurnah  and  Bagdad  is  less  than 
thi'ee  hundred  miles,  but  by  the  sinuous  Tigris  the  dis~ 
tance  is  nearly  doubled.  We  stopped  for  an  hour  at 
Abu  Sijreh,  where  is  a  cottage  in  the  midst  of  a  large 
palm-grove,  and  where  the  boys  hailed  us  with  merry 
shouts  of  laughter.  The  men  of  the  place  were  armed 
with  long  spears,  to  defend  themselves  and  their  flocks 
against  the  wild  beasts  of  the  jungle.  Later  in  the  day, 
the  Tigris  was  even  with  its  green  banks,  while  beyond, 
and  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  appeared  one  vast, 
dreary,  watery  waste. 

Toward  evening  we  anchored  opposite  the  town  of 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  83 

Hucl,  which  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Hud  and  the  Ti- 
gris.  The  scene  was  exceedingly  novel.  Naked  chil- 
dren rushed  to  the  shore  and  shouted  their  merriment. 
Native  women  came  to  the  maro-in  of  the  river,  and  sat 
motionless  as  statues.  Native  men,  poorly  clad,  but 
armed  to  the  teeth,  watched  us  as  they  would  an  ap- 
proaching foe.  Not  far  from  the  river  were  large  date- 
groves  inclosed  within  high  mud-walls.  The  buildings 
of  the  village  are  composed  of  mud  and  stone,  and  are 
the  homes  of  two  thousand  people.  The  palace  of  the 
sheikh  is  high  and  imposing.  The  minaret  of  the  old 
mosque  is  inlaid  with  green,  black,  and  white  tiles.  The 
Hud  is  a  large  military  station,  and  a  place  of  consid- 
erable trade.  Along  the  shore  were  many  burghalows, 
and  two  European  dredging  -  machines.  The  latter, 
however,  are  fast  going  to  ruin  for  lack  of  knowledge  to 
use  them  properly.  When  it  became  known  that  the 
steamer  had  arrived,  a  noisy  scene  followed.  Soldiers 
and  civilians  lined  the  shore.  Veiled  women  stood  upon 
the  balconies,  and  others  peered  through  the  latticed 
windows.  Some  were  in  black,  some  in  green,  some  in 
white.  All  manifested  their  curiosity  to  see  the  ladies 
of  our  party. 

Experience  had  taught  the  captain  to  anchor  far  out 
in  the  stream,  and  not  make  fast  to  the  shore,  as  the  vil- 
la2:ers  were  accustomed  to  rush  on  board  in  such  num- 
bers  as  to  ground  his  steamer.  They  would  come  osten- 
sibly for  letters,  but  rather  to  pillage.  For  two  hours 
there  were  a  constant  coming  and  going  of  boats  filled 
with  people.  These  little  boats  are  more  novel  than  a 
Yankee  notion.  They  are  constructed  of  a  coarse  reed, 
and  smeared  with  naphtha  within  and  without.  They 
resemble  in  form  an  acorn-cup,  and  are  called  hooffalis. 
Some  of  them  hold  a  dozen  persons.     Their  motion  in 


84  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

the  water  is  that  of  a  spinning -top,  and  they  are  pro- 
pelled by  a  single  paddle,  with  alternate  strokes,  first  on 
one  side  and  then  on  the  other;  and  thus  propelled,  they 
go  whirling  through  the  water.  Many  of  our  native  pas- 
sengers went  on  shore  to  purchase  food,  and  their  return 
was  the  signal  of  intense  excitement.  Boats  collided, 
women  screamed,  men  grew  pale,  and  boatmen  swore. 
And  such  profanity !  They  swore  by  their  mother ;  by 
the  wife  and  sister  of  the  one  they  cursed.  They  called 
each  other  the  "  devil's  friend." 

We  were  glad  when  the  signal -whistle  sounded  our 
departure.  Amidst  a  shout  from  the  shore  and  a  shout 
from  our  steamer,  we  left  the  Hud,  and  resumed  our  voy- 
age. On  either  side  were  rich  pasture -fields  adorned 
with  yellow  daisies.  Here  and  there  were  the  pine,  the 
palm,  and  the  bamboo.  Far  away,  grand  and  gloomy, 
were  the  Luristan  Mountains.  The  ao-ricultural  wealth 
of  this  valley  is  beyond  computation.  Forty  years  ago, 
when  Captain  Holland  first  came  up  the  Tigris,  all  these 
river  lands  were  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation  ;  but  the 
excessive  taxes  collected  by  the  Turks  discouraged  the 
farmers,  who  abandoned  their  fields  to  the  wandering 
Bedouin.  The  Turk  is  a  consumer,  and  has  never  been 
a  producer. 

Such  was  the  darkness  of  the  night,  that  we  were  com- 
pelled to  anchor  at  seven  o'clock.  In  three  hours  and 
a  half  we  started  again,  but  in  less  than  an  hour  we 
were  forced  to  stop  for  the  night.  The  morning  dawned 
with  brighter  prospects.  As  we  advanced,  vegetation 
increased.  The  grass  was  thicker  and  more  abundant. 
Men,  in  companies  of  six  and  twelve,  were  at  work  re- 
pairing the  levees  to  prevent  an  overflow.  They  seemed 
happy  in  their  work,  and  shouted  to  their  friends  on  the 
steamer.     Horsemen  appeared  along  the  bank,  with  sad- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  85 

die-bags  filled  with  produce,  and  women  were  seen  car- 
rying on  their  heads  baskets  of  food. 

In  the  afternoon  we  saw  the  old  and  now  abandoned 
fort  of  Kullah  Sultan,  which  is  three  hundred  feet  square, 
and  has  a  round  tower  at  each  angle.  Beyond  the  fort, 
the  west  bank  is  high  and  bold,  and  inland  is  a  young 
forest.  The  day  declined,  and  the  night  air  was  intense- 
ly cold.  The  extreme  cold  was  doubtless  due,  in  part, 
to  the  snow-water  that  came  down  from  the  mountains. 
The  next  day  the  Tigris  appeared  like  thin,  yellow  mud, 
through  which  we  slowly  steamed  hour  after  hour.  The 
quantity  of  alluvial  soil  thus  carried  southward  is  im- 
mense. It  is  deposited  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shaat-el- 
Arab,  where  islands  are  formed,  and  whereon  cities  will 
be  built.  We  were  now^  in  the  broadest  portion  of  the 
Tigris,  where  the  river  resembles  a  lake,  and  where  the 
current  is  eight  knots  an  hour. 

Happily  for  our  comfort,  the  morning  was  glorious. 
The  heavens  were  clear,  and  the  sun  was  bright.  The 
air  was  balmy,  and  the  natural  scenery  was  grand.  For- 
ty miles  to  the  east  were  the  Luristan  Mountains,  whose 
summits  are  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  higher  range  was  one  immense  bank  of  snow,  and 
one  head-land  peak,  boldest  of  the  group,  reflected  the 
glories  of  the  rising  sun.  From  the  river  to  the  base  of 
the  hills,  the  meadows  w^ere  clothed  with  grass  and  en- 
ameled with  white  daisies.  On  either  side,  the  banks 
were  high  and  the  soil  was  rich — a  remnant  of  the  bet- 
ter past.  It  is  Pliny  who  described  this  section  of  the 
valley  as  the  richest  portion  of  the  East ;  and,  even  now, 
no  one  could  desire  a  richer  empire  than  the  great  penin- 
sula between  the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates,  and  extend- 
ing from  Bagdad  to  the  Garden  of  Eden. 

The  pleasures  of  the   day  were   heightened  by  the 


86  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

mountain  scenery,  ever  in  view,  yet  ever  changing.  The 
lower  range  was  barren  and  brown ;  the  higher  joeaks 
were  white  with  snow.  How  grand  the  view  !  How 
pure  and  calm  the  vision !  At  sunset  our  enjoyment 
was  intensified.  The  snow-peaks  reflected  the  rosy  tints 
of  the  declining  sun ;  and  when  the  orb  of  day  had  sunk 
beneath  the  horizon,  the  snowy  range  was  colored  with 
a  deep,  rich  blue,  that  gradually  ftided  into  intense  black- 
ness. But  as  the  stars  came  forth,  the  beautiful  snow 
was  visible  again.  The  pointers  of  Ursa  Major,  the  clus- 
tered Pleiades,  and  the  Sword  of  Orion  shone  in  glory 
above,  and  were  reflected  in  the  waters  beneath. 

At  seven  o'clock  that  night  we  were  at  El-Henna,  the 
"Half-way  House,"  between  Busrah  and  Bagdad;  and 
in  six  hours  thereafter  we  reached  Kiit-el-Amarah,  a 
Turkish  garrison  of  fifty  men.  At  this  point  the  river 
Hye  cuts  the  peninsula,  and  flows  into  the  Euphrates 
through  six  lesser  channels.  Amarah  is  the  chief  coal- 
ing station  on  the  Tigris,  to  which  the  coal  is  brought 
in  native  boats  from  Busrah,  for  the  supply  of  the  river 
steamers. 

In  the  early  light  of  the  next  morning,  we  saw  two 
wolves  near  the  shore.  They  were  large,  and  nearly 
white.  A  well-meant  shot  failed  to  reach  them,  and 
with  a  bound  they  were  out  of  sight.  An  hour  later 
we  passed  the  Turkish  steamer  Mosul,  loaded  with 
troops  and  produce  for  Busrah.  Flags  were  hoisted  in 
friendly  salutation  as  we  passed  each  other. 

At  dawn  the  next  day  we  were  at  the  ruins  of  Huma- 
niah,  and  opposite  is  an  old  canal  cut  to  avoid  a  long 
curve  in  the  river.  We  could  see  the  river  at  the  other 
end  of  the  ditch,  but  there  was  not  water  enough  therein 
to  float  our  steamer.  The  canal  is  not  more  than  a  mile 
in  length,  but  we  were  three  hours  in  passing  around 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  87 

from  one  end  to  the  other.  Having  doubled  the  cape, 
we  were  opposite  ancient  Babylon,  not  forty  miles  to  the 
westward.  Beyond,  we  passed  the  military  station  Az- 
zaziah,  where  there  is  a  Avell-constructed  fort,  Avith  cen- 
tral gate- way  and  four  strong  bastions.  All  day  long 
the  river  continued  to  be  a  broad  lake,  and  its  raj^id 
current  bore  southward  many  native  boats  loaded  with 
produce.  We  had  left  the  low  country  and  were  now 
passing  through  a  section  of  the  valley  where  the  river- 
banks  are  sixty  feet  high.  The  inland  plains  were  cov- 
ered with  grass  and  bushes.  Splendid  Arab  horses  were 
feeding  in  the  rich  pastures.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we 
came  to  Baghdadieh,  whereat  is  a  fort,  and  near  which 
was  a  large  encampment.  The  half- naked  Arabs  ran 
after  us  and  begged  for  coffee.  It  was  a  cruel  decep- 
tion, but  one  of  our  native  passengers  filled  a  bottle 
with  ashes,  and  threw  it  into  the  river.  Quick  as 
thought,  an  Arab  threw  off  his  aba,  plunged  into  the 
cold  stream,  clutched  the  coveted  prize,  that  was  to  him 
an  Apple  of  Sodom. 

The  seventh  and  last  day  of  our  voyage  had  dawned. 
Around  us  were  the  mighty  ruins  of  the  power  and 
glory  of  Greek  and  Roman,  of  Persian  and  Parthian. 
Before  us  lay  the  battle-field  whereon  the  Roman  Seve- 
rus,  the  apostate  Julian,  the  Persian  Chosroes,  and  Omar 
the  Saracen  had  fought  for  empire.  Here  the  Macedo- 
nians had  lived  in  republican  freedom;  here  the  Persians 
had  reveled  in  Oriental  splendor ;  here  the  Parthian 
kings  had  pitched  their  royal  tents,  and  dwelt  therein 
in  pastoral  simplicity.  On  our  left  were  the  remains 
of  Seleucia ;  on  our  right  were  the  ruins  of  Ctesiphon, 
around  which  cluster  the  memories  of  t^vo  millenniums. 

Seleucia  was  a  republic  in  the  heart  of  Assyria.  Its 
founder  was  Seleucus  Nicator,  the  immediate  successor 


88  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

of  Alexander  tlie  Great  in  the  East.  To  preserve  his 
memory  from  oblivion,  he  called  it  Seleucia.  While  he 
survived,  it  was  the  imperial  city  of  the  Macedonian  em- 
pire in  Upper  Asia ;  and  after  his  death,  and  long  after 
his  empire  had  ceased  to  exist,  it  remained  a  Grecian  col- 
ony. Its  founder  had  bestowed  upon  it  the  rights  and 
privileges  of  an  indejoendeut  government.  It  had  a  sen- 
ate of  three  hundred  nobles,  a  population  of  six  hundred 
thousand  citizens,  and  a  free  constitution.  It  was  re- 
nowned for  its  arts,  its  military  power,  its  love  of  free- 
dom. Its  prosperity  continued  through  centuries,  and 
the  fame  of  its  wealth  excited  the  cupidity  of  the  most 
renowned  conquerors  of  the  Christian  era.  Being  less 
than  fifty  miles  to  the  north-east,  its  contiguity  and  fame 
had  th^  effect  to  depopulate  ancient  Babylon,  which  ver- 
ified the  predictions  of  the  prophets.  When  in  its  glory, 
the  walls  of  the  city  resembled  an  eagle  spreading  his 
wings,  to  illustrate  the  freedom  of  its  citizens ;  and  such 
was  the  strength  of  its  defensive  works  as  to  resist  an 
assault  of  the  most  powerful  enginery  of  ancient  warfare. 
The  city,  however,  was  surrendered  to  the  Romans  under 
the  Emperor  Trajan,  in  the  year  a.d.  116;  but  after  his 
departure,  the  citizens  revolted  and  re-asserted  their  in- 
dependence. For  half  a  century,  Seleucia  w\as  free,  and 
was  the  noblest  city  on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris.  But 
its  wealth  and  luxury  allured  the  Emperor  Severus  to 
its  gates,  who  sacked  and  burned  the  beautiful  metrop- 
olis, and  massacred  three  hundred  thousand  of  its  best 
citizens.  From  that  day  its  decline  was  rapid  and  cer- 
tain. In  its  fall  was  illustrated  the  saying,  "  Measure  for 
measure,"  for  in  subsequent  years  Seleucia  suffered  from 
the  Parthian  kings  the  same  fate  she  had  inflicted  on 
Babylon,  as  the  seat  of  empire  was  transferred  to  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  Ctesiphon  became  the 


\ 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  89 

imperial  city;  and  all  that  now  remains  of  the  Greek 
colony  are  fragments  of  porcelain,  pieces  of  pottery,  and 
immense  shapeless  mounds  of  broken  bricks.  Out  of  the 
ruins  the  Arabs  have  built  a  square  fort,  with  a  round 
tower  at  each  angle.  Near  the  fortress  were  a  few  tents, 
and  along  the  shore  a  few  native  boats  were  at  anchor. 

On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Tigris  are  the  more  definite 
and  more  imposing  remains  of  Ctesiphon,  whose  history 
is  written  in  blood.  At  first  the  capital  of  the  kings  of 
Parthia,  it  became-  the  winter  residence  of  the  Pei'sian 
mouarchs,  who,  having  enjoyed  the  cool  breezes  of  the 
mountains  of  Media  at  Ecbatana  durino;  the  summer 
months,  came  hither  in  winter  to  enjoy  the  milder  cli- 
mate of  Ctesiphon.  In  subsequent  centuries,  it  contained 
the  "  white  palace  of  Chosroes,''  the  most  wonderful  and 
magnificent  structure  in  the  valley  of  the  Euphrates. 
Around  its  walls  were  fought  the  most  bloody  battles 
known  to  history.  In  thirty-three  years  after  its  capture 
by  Trajan,  it  had  recovered  its  former  greatness ;  but,  in 
the  middle  of  the  second  century,  it  was  captured  by  the 
Emperor  Severus,  whose  soldiers  carried  away  immense 
treasures  of  gold  and  silver,  and  who  led  forth  a  hun- 
dred thousand  captives  to  grace  the  conqueror's  triumph. 
Yet  it  survived  the  plunder  of  its  palaces,  and  the  cap- 
tivity of  so  many  of  its  noblest  citizens,  and  for  two  hun- 
dred years  was  the  seat  of  Persian  royalty.  It  was  in 
the  year  a.d.  363  that  Julian  the  Apostate,  with  sixty 
thousand  Koman  soldiers,  demanded  its  unconditional 
surrender.  He  had  marched  down  the  peninsula,  and 
fixed  his  camp  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Tigris  amidst  the 
ruins  of  Seleucia.  To  bring  his  fleet  of  twelve  hundred 
boats  from  the  Euphrates  to  the  Tigris,  he  re-opened  the 
old  canal  that  Trajan  had  made,  and  which  now  remains 
a  little  to  the  north.     Crossino^  the  Tio-ris  at  dead  of 


00 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


night,  Julian  opened  the  battle  at  early  dawn,  and  which 
lasted  for  twelve  consecutive  hours.  The  Komans  were 
victorious  on  the  plains,  but  the  Persians  were  victorious 
in  the  city.  The  proud  walls  of  Ctesiphon  bade  defi- 
ance to  the  assaults  of  the  Roman  leo-ions.  Unable  to 
take  the  city,  Julian  burned  eleven  hundred  of  his  boats, 
the  brilliant  confla2:ration  of  which  transformed  nio^ht 
into  day ;  and,  marching  northward  and  inland  east  of 


ANCIENT   CTESIPHON. 


the  river,  he  was  overtaken  b}^  the  Persians ;  and  in  the 
battle  of  Samara,  not  far  from  Bagdad,  Julian  was  slain 
by  a  javelin  that  penetrated  his  liver. 

Ctesiphon  remained  the  seat  of  Persian  luxury  and 
power  down  to  the  seventh  century,  when  it  was  sacked 
and  destroyed  by  the  Saracens.  And  when  the  victors 
entered  the  gates  and  beheld  the  palace,  they  shouted, 
"  This  is  the  white  palace  of  Chosroes ;  this  is  the  prom- 
ise of  the  apostle  of  God."     The  spoils  of  the  victors 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  91 

were  immense.  It  required  a  mule  to  cany  away  the 
tiara  and  cuirass,  the  belt  and  bracelets,  of  Chosroes, 
This  gorgeous  trophy  was  presented  to  Omar,  the  com- 
mander of  the  faithful ;  and  the  gravest  of  his  compan- 
ions condescended  to  smile  when  they  beheld  the  white 
beard,  the  hairy  arms,  and  uncouth  figure  of  the  veteran 
who  api^eared  before  them  wearing  the  royal  ornaments 
of  the  great  king.  But  of  all  the  trophies,  the  most  mag- 
nificent was  a  carpet  of  silk,  ninety  feet  in  length  and  as 
many  in  breadth,  which  decorated  one  of  the  apartments 
of  the  palace.  It  was  a  piece  of  tapestry  of  the  most  ex- 
traordinary workmanship.  A  paradise,  or  garden,  was 
depictured  on  the  ground ;  the  flowers,  fruits,  and  shrubs 
were  imitated  by  the  figures  of  the  gold  embroidery  and 
the  colors  of  the  precious  stones ;  and  the  ample  square 
was  encircled  by  a  variegated  and  verdant  border.  The 
Arabian  general  persuaded  the  soldiers  to  relinquish 
their  claim,  in  the  reasonable  hope  that  the  eye  of  the 
caliph  would  be  delighted  with  the  splendid  workman- 
ship of  native  industry.  But,  regardless  of  the  merit  of 
art  and  the  pomp  of  royalty,  the  rigid  Omar  divided  the 
prize  among  his  brethren  of  Medina.  The  picture  was 
destroyed;  but  such  was  the  intrinsic  value  of  the  ma- 
terials, that  the  share  of  Ali  alone  was  sold  for  twenty 
thousand  drachmas.'''* 

The  sack  of  Ctesiphon  by  the  Saracens  was  followed 
by  its  gradual  decay  and  final  desertion.  Covering  an 
area  of  many  miles  are  mounds  of  moderate  height,  of  a 
light  color,  and  strewed  with  fragments  of  pottery  and 
porcelain.  They  extend  eastward  in  a  semicircular  range, 
and  their  continued  line  and  form  indicate  the  circuit  of 
the  city  walls.     But  the  most  conspicuous  and  interest- 

*  Gibbou. 


92  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

ing  object  is  tlie  ruin  of  the  "  white  palace  of  Chosroes." 
We  had  seen  it  from  earliest  dawn,  and  by  the  higher 
refracting  atmosphere  of  the  East  it  towered  in  all  its 
grand  proj^ortions.  When  viewed  from  our  steamer,  it 
reminded  me  of  Westminster  Abbey.  It  is  less  than 
half  a  mile  from  the  margin  of  the  river.  It  is  composed 
of  two  wings,  and  a  central  hall  that  extends  the  whole 
length  of  the  palace.  It  is  constructed  of  fine  burned 
bricks,  each  twelve  inches  square  and  three  inches  thick, 
covered  with  a  superior  cement.  Its  eastern  front  is 
three  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  in  the  centre  is  a  noble 
arch,  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet  high,  and  with 
a  span  of  ninety  feet.  The  walls  are  sixteen  feet  thick. 
The  face  of  the  front  is  ornamented  with  four  rows  of 
arched  recesses,  each  one  the  miniature  of  the  great  arch, 
and  all  of  the  most  delicate  and  exquisite  workmanshijj. 
The  wings  have  their  front  divided  into  two  stories,  the 
lower  one  of  which  has  large  arched  niches  and  an  arched 
door-way,  each  separated  from  the  other  b}^  convex  j)i- 
lasters,  going  u]3  half  way  the  height  of  the  building. 
In  the  second  story  there  is  a  succession  of  concave 
arched  recesses,  divided  from  each  other  by  semi -col- 
umns, and  diminishing  in  proportion  to  the  top  of  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  front  wall.  In  its  ruins  the 
great  structure  is  grand  to  contemj)late,  but  w^hen  per- 
fect its  appearance  must  have  been  superb.  The  mag- 
nificent banqueting- hall  extends  a  hundred  and  sixty 
feet  east  and  west.  At  the  eastern  end  is  a  wall  where- 
in is  a  door-way  twelve  feet  wide  and  twenty-four  feet 
high.  The  imagination  can  scarcely  realize  the  grandeur 
of  this  apartment,  resplendent  with  Oriental  ornamenta- 
tion, and  brilliant  witli  the  gorgeous  display  of  Persian 
royalty. 

Near  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Tigris,  and  opposite  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  93 

two  cities,  are  the  remains  of  a  brick  bridge  that  once 
spanned  the  river.  The  portion  that  we  saw  just  above 
the  water  is  seventeen  feet  wide  and  sixty  feet  long; 
and  the  height  of  the  most  perfect  remaining  pier  is 
eisrht  feet. 

Not  far  from  the  palace  is  the  tomb  of  Suliman  the 
Pure,  who  was  Mohammed's  barber,  and  who  became  a 
convert  under  the  persuasive  eloquence  of  the  prophet 
himself  Hither  the  barbers  of  Bao-dad  come  in  annual 
procession,  in  the  month  of  April,  to  do  homage  to  the 
memory  of  a  fellow-craftsman.  The  tomb  consists  of  a 
domed  sanctuary,  a  vaulted  piazza,  and  to  it  is  attached 
a  caravansary  for  the  accommodation  of  the  pilgrim  bar- 
bers. Over  the  sepulchre  are  three  tall  palms,  and  hence 
it  is  sometimes  called  the  "Tomb  of  the  Three  Palms." 
Near  it  are  the  urned  ashes  of  another  of  even  greater 
distinction.  They  are  the  dust  of  Hadhaifah,  who  was 
secretary  to  the  prophet.  And  in  a  third  tomb  are  the 
remains  of  the  Caliph  Mpostasem  Billah,  who  was  slain 
by  Heslakoo,  grandson  of  the  famous  Genghis  Khan,  the 
founder  of  the  Mogul  dynasty  in  Persia. 

Once  more  afloat,  we  soon  came  to  the  river  Dialah, 
which  runs  inland  many  miles,  and  which  is  the  chan- 
nel of  an  extensive  trade  with  the  encampments  and  vil- 
lages that  line  its  banks.  A  solitary  tree  marks  the 
spot  where  it  pours  its  clear,  sweet  waters  into  the  Ti- 
gris. It  is  half  the  breadth  of  the  latter  stream,  and  its 
current  does  not  exceed  two  miles  an  hour.  On  the 
northern  bank  were  a  few  grass  huts,  whose  occupants 
earn  a  living  by  transporting  travelers  across  the  stream, 
and  near  them  were  a  few  tents  of  Arab  shepherds. 
This  Dialah  is  mentioned  by  Xenophon,  and  somewhere 
on  its  banks,  and  near  the  Tigris,  stood  the  populous 
and  flourishing  city  of  Sitace ;  and  not  far  from  it  was  a 


94  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

bridge  of  thirty-seven  boats.  But  town  and  bridge  have 
long  since  ceased  to  exist,  and  there  is  to-day  no  trace  of 
their  existence.  The  river  is  now  famous  for  an  enor- 
mous fish,  so  large  as  to  form  a  good  load  for  a  don- 
key. These  large  fish  are  taken  to  Bagdad,  where  they 
are  sold  at  a  moderate  price  to  the  poorer  classes. 

It  was  midday  when  we  had  our  first  view  of  Bagdad, 
the  renowned  "  City  of  the  Caliphs."  So  sudden  was  the 
view,  and  so  brief  withal,  that  it  seemed  like  an  en- 
chanted vision.  Dome  and  minaret,  tower  and  mauso- 
leum, rose  above  the  dense  groves  of  the  royal  palm. 
Away  to  the  north-west  were  the  golden  pinnacles  of 
Kathimain  and  the  unique  monument  to  the  beautiful 
Zobeida;  while  on  our  right  were  the  green -tiled  and 
swelling  domes,  the  graceful  minarets,  towering  above 
the  pine  and  cypress,  and  the  massive  walls  of  the  "  City 
of  Peace."  But  the  gorgeous  vision  lasted  only  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  then  disappeared  for  an  hour,  while  we  fol- 
lowed the  sinuous  channel  of  the  Tio-ris.  All  around  us 
"were  the  unmistakable  signs  that  we  were  near  a  great 
city.  Village  succeeded  village ;  plantation  touched 
plantation ;  men  in  white,  women  closely  veiled,  and 
children  innocent  of  a  rag,  were  chatting,  laughing,  and 
wondering  how  we  could  steam  against  ^vind  and  cur- 
rent. 

Soon  the  vision  re-appeared,  enlarged,  diversified,  and 
rendered  more  beautiful  by  a  thousand  new  objects, 
thrilling  us  with  delight,  dimpling  w^ith  smiles  the 
cheeks  of  our  fair  ones,  and  provoking  heartier  laughter 
from  those  made  of  sterner  stuff. 

A  voyage  of  twenty-five  hundred  miles  is  ended.  All 
is  well.  We  now  pass  the  English  residency,  with  its 
high  walls,  and  orange -groves,  and  lofty  flag-staft',  bear- 
ing on  high  Briton's  proud  banner.     Saluting  the  En- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  95 

glish  gun-boat  Cornet  as  we  pass,  we  dropped  anchor  in 
front  of  the  Turkish  custom-house,  whose  officials  rushed 
on  board  to  examine  baggage  and  passj)orts.  Soon  the 
river  was  covered  with  kooffahs,  those  acorn  -  shaped 
boats,  whose  owners  screamed  and  clamored  in  frantic 
tones  to  induce  us  to  employ  them.  The  excitement 
was  no  less  intense  on  shore,  for  the  ariival  of  the  City 
of  London  was  a  great  event  to  the  people  of  Bagdad. 
Merchants  expected  their  goods  from  Manchester  and 
Bombay;  bankers  were  anxious  to  receive  remittances, 
while  all  anticipated  the  coming  of  the  mail  from  Eu- 
rope, from  India,  from  the  shores  of  Persia  and  Arabia. 

Colonel  C.  Herbert,  her  Britannic  majesty's  political 
resident  and  consul-general,  sent  his  boat,  with  a  polite 
invitation  for  us  to  be  his  guests ;  but  Captain  Cowley's 
invitation  had  been  accepted,  and  we  were  to  be  the 
guests  of  Captain  Holland,  whose  amiable  daughter  Mr. 
Cowley  had  married.  It  required  some  skill  and  no  lit- 
tle care  to  jump  into  a  kooffah,  for,  like  a  wooden  bowl 
on  the  water,  it  bobbed  and  dipped  where  the  weight 
happened  to  be  greatest ;  and  the  only  position  of  safety 
was  to  sit  down  like  a  Turk  on  the  bottom  of  the  boat. 
All  in,  seven  in  number,  and  away  we  went  twirling 
through  the  water  like  a  boy's  top,  laughing  at  our  fears, 
and  more  at  our  novel  navigation.  We  landed  in  the 
mud,  but  were  soon  on  the  high  terrace,  and,  passing 
through  a  vaulted  passage-way,  we  entered  a  spacious 
court,  where  we  were  received  with  generous  hospitality. 

We  had  to  regret  the  absence  of  Captain  Holland, 
whom  we  left  at  Busrah.  Forty  years  ago,  he  made  an 
expedition  up  the  Tigris,  and  since  then  he  has  been  a 
resident  of  Bagdad.  In  all  respects  a  worthy  represent- 
ative of  Great  Britain,  he  is  esteemed  for  his  intelli- 
gence, his  moral  worth,  and  his  high   social  character. 


96  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

He  loved  and  married  a  native  Christian  lady,  who  is 
the  mother  of  his  thirteen  children,  and  yvh.o  is  still  in 
the  freshness  of  her  womanhood.  Queenly  in  her  ap- 
pearance, womanly  in  her  address,  generous  in  her  hos- 
pitality, entertaining  in  conversation,  she  is  gifted  with 
a  mind  quick  to  perceive,  nice  to  discriminate,  impartial 
to  judge,  and  candid  to  decide.  Her  home  is  the  abode 
of  peace.  Love  reigns  in  the  household.  Her  children 
and  children's  children  are  happiest  when  in  each  oth- 
er's society.  Her  daughters  are  amiable  and  engaging; 
her  son,  educated  in  England,  is  a  noble  specimen  of  ma- 
turino;  manhood. 

The  Holland  mansion  is  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  built 
of  brick,  two  stories  high,  and  within  is  a  large  court- 
yard, wherein  palms  are  growing.  On  the  ground-floor 
are  the  cool  apartments  occupied  by  the  family  in  the 
day-time,  during  the  intense  heat  of  midsummer ;  while 
on  the  house-toj)  are  the  spacious  platforms  whereon  the 
family  sleep  in  the  hot  nights  of  summer.  The  apart- 
ments assigned  us  were  all  that  we  could  wish  for  com- 
fort and  for  pleasure.  The  sumptuous  Oriental  dinners, 
the  well-stored  library,  the  drawing-room  entertainments, 
the  evening  devotions,  united  to  complete  the  circle  of 
our  daily  delights.  For  more  than  a  week  we  were  the 
welcome  guests  of  this  happy  family,  whose  kindness  an- 
ticipated every  want,  whose  pleasure  was  supreme  when 
their  guests  were  happiest.  To  them  were  we  indebt- 
ed for  practical  suggestions  as  to  traveling  in  the  East. 
They  thought  it  no  annoyance  to  aid  ns  to  employ  serv- 
ants, to  make  contracts,  to  purchase  our  necessary  outfit 
for  our  long  inland  journey.  And  when  the  "  elect  lady  " 
of  our  party  was  ill,  each  one  was  a  ministering  angel 
unto  her.  All  this  was  the  realization  of  our  dream  of 
Oriental  hospitality.     It  was  more ;  for  the  boasted  hos- 


-ilplpilll'iiliti 


'''i  1 


iiiiiiiiiiii: 


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i.;u.i;ii!iiiiii'ii:ii:{i  i 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  99 

pitality  of  the  Turk  is  a  hospitality  of  equivalents.  The 
guest  is  expected  to  return  in  kind  equal  to  what  he  has 
received.  It  is  gift  for  gift ;  dollar  for  dollar.  To  be 
well  thought  of  among  the  Turks,  the  traveler's  dona- 
tions should  be  princely.  They  estimate  him  not  by 
what  he  is,  but  by  what  he  gives.  But  not  so  at  Cap- 
tain Holland's.  That  queenly  wife  and  mother  would 
not  allow  child  or  domestic  to  receive  the  gifts  in  gold 
which  we  felt  it  a  privilege  to  oifer ;  and  even  the  serv- 
ants who  had  received  presents  were  required  by  their 
mistress  to  return  the  same.  She  thought  such  gifts  de- 
moralizing to  those  who  received  them.  She  would  have 
her  children  unselfish  in  their  entertainment  of  strangers, 
and  her  servants  unselfish  in  their  attention  to  her  guests. 
Such  hospitality  is  so  rare  in  the  East,  especially  outside 
of  Christian  society,  that  I  mention  it  here  with  no  ordi- 
nary pleasure. 

The  enchanting  stories  of  "  The  Thousand  and  One 
Nights"  had  excited  our  expectation  as  to  the  Oriental 
magnificence  of  Bagdad,  but  the  reality  was  not  a  real- 
ization of  our  fondly  cherished  dreams.  The  changes 
wrought  by  time,  and  by  the  rise  and  fall  of  dynasties, 
are  more  apparent  in  the  "  City  of  the  Caliphs  "  than  in 
Cairo  or  Damascus.  But  the  past  is  not  to  be  inferred 
from  the  present.  Six  centuries  ago,  Bagdad  was  the 
proud  capital  of  the  caliphs,  whose  empire  extended  from 
the  Pillars  of  Hercules  to  the  Wall  of  China,  and  from 
the  Indian  Ocean  to  the  Frozen  Sea.  It  was  then  an 
emporium  of  wealth  and  magnificence.  It  was  the  royal 
abode  of  the  Abbassides,  chief  of  the  fjimily  of  the  proph- 
et, and  was  held  in  veneration  by  all  the  kings  of  the 
desert  Arabs  as  the  seat  of  power  and  glory.  The  great 
palace  was  three  miles  iu  circumference,  and  embowered 
in  a  forest  of  fruit-trees.     Within  the  inclosure  was  a 


100  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

lake,  formed  by  the  waters  of  the  Tigris ;  and  within  the 
spacious  park  were  kept  a  multitude  of  birds  and  ani- 
mals, so  that  hunting  and  fishing  could  be  enjoyed  as 
constant  diversions.  The  space  inclosed  was  equal  in 
extent  to  that  occupied  by  the  castellated  palace  and 
hanging  gardens  of  ancient  Babylon."^^  The  founder  of 
the  city  was  Al  Mansour,  second  caliph  of  the  Abbasside 
dynasty,  who  called  it  the  "Abode  of  Peace,"  a  title  still 
used  in  official  documents  from  the  Sublime  Porte.  Its 
history  dates  from  the  year  762  of  our  era.  With  the 
resources  of  a  vast  and  rich  empire  at  his  command,  its 
founder  lavished  his  wealth  and  disi:)layed  his  taste  to 
make  it  a  city  of  extraordinary  magnificence.  And  such 
was  his  wealth  at  the  time  of  his  death,  that  he  left  to 
his  successor  $150,000,000  in  gold.  His  son  Al  Mamoun 
excelled  his  father  in  the  splendor  and  luxury  of  his 
reign.  On  his  bridal-day,  he  showered  on  the  head  of 
hi^  beautiful  bride  a  thousand  pearls  of  the  largest  size 
and  of  the  most  exquisite  hue.  His  palace  was  adorned 
with  thirty -eight  thousand  pieces  of  tapestry,  twelve 
thousand  of  which  were  of  silk  embroidered  with  gold. 
In  the  royal  gardens  were  gold  and  silver  trees,  each 
with  eighteen  branches,  and  in  them  were  birds  of  gold, 
who  warbled  their  melody  by  the  action  of  ingenious 
machinery.  In  his  hunting-grounds,  a  hundred  lions 
were  kept  for  his  sport.  Superb  barges,  elegant  as  the 
gondolas  of  Venice,  floated  on  the  Tigris.  The  high  offi- 
cers of  his  court,  and  the  eunuchs  who  held  the  keys  of 
his  harem,  were  gorgeously  attired ;  their  buttons  were 
of  gold  and  costly  gems.  Nor  was  he  unmindful  of  learn- 
ing and  culture.  The  college  of  Bagdad  cost  two  hun- 
dred thousand  pieces  of  gold,  and  could  boast  of  more 

*  Benjamin  of  Tudela. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  101 

than  six  thousand  disciples.  A  hundred  thousand  man- 
uscripts, beautifully  translated  and  elegantly  bound, 
adorned  the  library.  It  was  the  seat  of  Arabian  learn- 
ing. Astronomy  was  studied  with  assiduity  and  success. 
The  first  arc  of  the  meridian  was  measured  iu  the  "  Col- 
leo-e  of  the  Learned,"  and  water-clocks  were  there  sue- 
cessfully  invented.  Such  was  the  extent  of  a  physician's 
library,  that  he  informed  the  Sultan  of  Bokhara  that 
it  would  require  four  hundred  camels  to  transport  his 
books.  Some  idea  of  the  vastness  of  the  population  may 
be  formed  from  the  statements  of  historians,  that  eighty 
thousand  men,  sixty  thousand  women,  and  twenty  thou- 
sand slaves  formed  the  funeral  procession  of  Ibn  Han- 
bal,  a  distino-uished  Moslem  sag-e.* 

Bagdad  attained  the  height  of  its  power  in  a.d.  786, 
under  the  reign  of  Haroun-al-Raschid,  and  his  charming 
Scheherzade  of  "  The  Thousand  and  One  Nights."  He 
carried  his  victorious  banners  to  the  gates  of  Byzantium 
when  Irene  was  on  the  throne,  with  the  infant  Constan- 
tine  in  her  arms ;  and,  returning  to  the  "Abode  of  Peace," 
he  ruled  his  empire  with  prudence,  and  treated  his  ene- 
mies with  contempt.  In  the  height  of  his  glory,  he  in- 
scribed a  letter  to  the  Emperor  Nicephorus,  calling  him 
a  "  Koman  dosf." 

His  name  recalls  those  charming  entertainments  so 
vividly  depicted  in  "The  Arabian  Nights,"  and  of  which 
his  capital  was  so  largely  the  scene  of  the  stories  therein 
told.  Whoever  was  their  author,  those  stories  have  an 
immortality.  The  time  and  place  of  their  composition, 
and  whether  the  characters  therein  delineated  are  real 
or  fancied,  are  disputed  points;  yet  their  influence  is 
world-wide,  and  the  pleasure  they  afford  is  immense. 

*  Gibbon. 


102  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

The  best  of  the  "  Entertainments  "  may  have  come  from 
India,  the  cradle  of  story  and  fable;  the  most  tender 
and  sentimental  love-tales  may  be  of  Persian  inspiration, 
but  the  life-like  pictures  and  witty  anecdotes  are  purely 
Arabian.  The  passion  for  adventure,  for  love  and  re- 
venge; the  craft  and  successful  plots  of  womankind;  the 
hypocrisy  of  priests;  the  corruptibility  of  judges;  the 
gilded  palaces,  the  charming  women,  the  lovely  gardens, 
the  exquisite  repasts,  are  no  less  true  now  of  town-life  in 
the  Mohammedan  East  than  centuries  ago.  These  same 
stories,  which  captivate  and  transport  even  Christian 
minds  by  the  sj^lendor  of  their  pageantry,  the  variety 
and  boldness  of  incident,  and  the  fervid  expression  of 
natural  desires,  are  the  familiar  stories  nightly  related  in 
the  coffee-houses  and  harems  of  Bagdad.  The  story  of 
Zobeida  and  her  two  Sisters,  and  the  petrified  city  of  the 
Indes,  of  Sindbad  the  Sailor,  of  The  Three  Calenders,  Sons 
of  Sultans,  and  the  Five  Ladies  of  Bagdad,  are  now  the 
entertaining  tales  of  every-day  life.  And  whether  from 
the  educational  effect  of  these  "  Entertainments  "  on  the 
common  mind  of  the  East,  or  from  a  natural  genius  in- 
herited, the  love  of  story-telling  is  universal  in  the  Ori- 
ent, and  a  master  in  the  art  is  a  favorite  with  all. 

A  city  like  Bagdad,  so  celebrated  for  its  wealth  and 
splendor,  was  a  tempting  prize  to  ambitious  conquerors. 
The  Tartar  hordes  sought  its  treasures  in  a.d.  1251 ;  and 
their  leader,  Hulaku  Khan,  put  to  a  cruel  death  Mosta- 
zem,  the  last  of  the  caliphs,  and  massacred  three  hun- 
dred thousand  of  its  citizens.  One  hundred  and  fifty 
years  thereafter,  it  was  besieged  and  captured  by  Tamer- 
lane, the  Mogul ;  and  the  place  is  pointed  out  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  Tio:ris  \Yhere  he  caused  to  be 
erected  two  pyramids,  composed  of  ninety  thousand 
skulls  of  the   most  influential  citizens,  whom    he   had 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  103 

cruelly  slain.  Since  then  the  city  has  gradually  de- 
creased in  wealth,  power,  and  population.  The  Turks 
came  in  a.d.  1638,  who  are  now  masters  of  the  situation. 
Since  their  advent,  it  has  been  a  place  of  contention  be- 
tween them  and  the  Persians.  Within  the  last  half  cen- 
tury, its  population  has  been  reduced  from  one  hundred 
and  ten  thousand  to  less  than  seventy  thousand.  The 
great  empire  of  the  caliphs  has  been  divided  and  subdi- 
vided, to  augment  the  revenues  demanded  by  the  Sub- 
lime Porte.  Thirty-five  years  ago,  the  pashalic  of  Bag- 
dad was  one  of  the  most  important  and  wealthy  in  the 
Turkish  empire,  and  was  the  first  in  rank.  Its  jurisdic- 
tion then  extended  from  the  shores  of  the  Persian  Gulf 
up  the  Euphrates  to  Anah,  where  the  Aleppo  District 
commenced ;  thence  across  Mesopotamia  to  the  Hamreen 
Hills  and  the  great  plains  of  Kerkha ;  and  thence  to  the 
junction  of  the  Shaat-el-Arab  and  the  Mahomerah,  with 
Kurdistan  on  the  north ;  but  to-day  the  authority  of  its 
pasha  is  limited  to  the  disti'icts  surrounding  the  city,  in- 
clusive of  the  Arab  tribes  that  encamp  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, while  Busrah  and  Diarbekir  are  placed  under  inde- 
pendent pashas. 

Yet  Bagdad  is  still  beautiful  for  situation,  though  not 
the  joy  of  the  whole  earth.  It  is  divided  by  the  Tigris 
into  two  parts,  the  smaller  quarter  being  a  suburb  on 
the  western  bank.  The  two  portions  are  connected  by 
a  bridge  of  boats  a  thousand  feet  long,  but  such  a  bridge 
as  only  Turks  would  suffer  to  remain  a  day.  Its  pres- 
ent condition  indicates  their  disregard  for  the  safety  of 
human  life,  and  is  one  of  the  many  proofs  that  they  have 
the  least  public  spirit  of  any  people  on  the  globe.  Situ- 
ated on  a  plain,  the  principal  part  of  the  city  is  on  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  Tigris,  and  the  buildings  along  the 
river  abut  the  water's  edge.      The  high  walls  of  the 


104  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

town  are  both  old  and  new,  constructed  of  bricks  of 
different  kinds,  chiefly  gathered  from  the  once  stately 
structures  of  ancient  Babylon.  The  older  sections  of  the 
wall  indicate  superior  workmanship,  while  the  modern 
portions  are  in  keeping  with  the  dilapidated  condition 
of  the  Turkish  empire.  At  the  principal  angles  of  the 
wall  are  large  round  towers,  on  which  are  mounted  bat- 
teries to  salute  the  pasha  and  frighten  the  Arabs.  Two 
of  the  larger  and  older  towers  are  grand  and  gloomy. 
They  were  constructed  by  the  caliph  Nasr,  in  a.d.  1221, 
as  announced  by  an  inscription  thereon,  executed  in  the 
best  style  of  the  old  Arabic  sculpture.  The  three  gates 
of  the  city  are  massive  and  imposing.  They  are  the 
gathering- places  of  merchants  who  trade  in  cotton;  of 
venders  of  things  new  and  old;  of  magicians  perform- 
ing magic  tricks ;  of  story-tellers  convulsing  with  laugh- 
ter the  listening  crowd  ;  of  Jewish  money-changers,  ever 
willing  to  turn  an  honest  penny  ;  of  mule-owners,  always 
anxious  to  transport  the  traveler;  of  soldiers  strutting 
in  their  little  brief  authority ;  of  beggars,  whose  persist- 
ent importunities,  if  directed  to  the  right  place,  would 
open  the  pearly  gates  of  paradise. 

Nearly  half  the  space  included  within  the  walls  is 
covered  with  the  ruins  of  better  days;  and  in  the  other 
half  are  gardens,  wherein  are  the  orange,  the  fig,  the  pom- 
egranate, the  apricot,  and  the  palm.  The  streets  are  nar- 
row, crooked,  unpaved,  and,  on  rainy  days,  impassable  for 
pedestrians.  No  people  in  the  world  bathe  half  so  often 
as  the  Turks,  yet  no  people  are  half  so  indifferent  to  of 
fensive  odors.  Whatever  is  within,  the  outside  of  the 
platter  is  never  clean.  They  are  passionately  fond  of 
perfumes,  and  ai'e  partial  to  the  oil  of  roses ;  yet  there 
is  not  a  street  in  Bagdad  that  is  not  a  sink  of  deadly 
vapors. 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH.  107 

The  gloom  of  the  principal  thoroughfares  is  increased 
by  the  construction  and  the  materials  of  the  buildings. 
Most  of  the  houses  are  composed  of  a  pale-yellow  brick, 
and  on  either  side  of  the  street  are  blank  walls,  pene- 
trated by  a  low,  narrow  door-way,  with  here  and  there 
a  small  latticed  window.  The  entrance  is  secured  by  a 
heavy  door  of  planks,  fastened  by  strong  iron  clamps, 
and,  when  closed,  is  an  eifectual  barrier  to  all  intruders. 
This  low  jDortal  leads  to  a  spacious  court- yard,  opening 
into  which  are  ranges  of  apartments  furnished  and  orna- 
mented according  to  the  wealth  and  taste  of  the  occu- 
pants. Connected  with  all  the  better  class  of  private 
residences  in  Bagdad  are  subterranean  rooms,  called  ser- 
dauhSj  which  are  a  cool  retreat  in  the  day-time  from  the 
intense  heat  of  summer.  The  flat  roofs  of  the  dwellings 
are  so  many  unroofed  chambers,  wherein  the  family  take 
the  evening  meal  and  sleep  during  the  heated  season. 
And,  as  may  be  readily  imagined,  the  early  dawn  pre- 
sents to  the  traveler  a  novel  sight,  when,  on  a  thousand 
housetojDS,  the  sleej^ers  awake  from  their  dreams  and  be- 
gin to  shake  dull  slumber  from  their  souls. 

The  public  buildings  of  Bagdad  have  the  enchantment 
that  distance  lends  to  the  view.  The  palace  of  the  pasha 
is  more  noticeable  for  its  extent  than  for  its  mao;nificence. 
Viewed  from  an  eminence,  the  swelling  domes  and  lofty 
minarets  of  a  hundred  mosques,  rising  above  the  palm 
and  orange  groves,  present  to  the  eye  of  the  beholder  a 
pleasing  landscape.  Some  of  the  mosques  are  old  and 
grand.  That  of  the  vizier,  which  abuts  the  Tigris,  and 
is  near  the  bridge,  has  a  noble  dome  and  a  graceful  mina- 
ret, but  is  less  attractive  than  the  one  near  the  Maidan, 
whose  rich  arabesque  -  work,  imposing  entrance,  lofty 
pointed  arch,  sculptured  bands,  and  beautifully  wrought 
inscription,  are  not  altogether  unworthy  the  "  City  of  the 


108  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Caliphs."  The  mosque  of  the  pasha  is  distinguished  by 
the  lamps  on  its  exterior  gallery  that  burn  throughout 
the  night,  but  is  not  so  large  and  grand  as  that  of  Abbas- 
el-Kaddr.  Most  of  these  mosques  are  surmounted  with 
Persian  domes,  whose  height  is  greater  than  their  diam- 
eter. The  exterior  of  the  dome  and  minaret  is  incased 
with  glazed  tiles  of  green  and  white,  and  the  body  of  the 
mosque  is  streaked  with  vermilion. 

On  a  sunny  day,  the  streets  of  Bagdad  presented  a 
picturesque  and  lively  scene.  Richly  caparisoned  horses, 
and  wdiite  asses  fantastically  marked  with  henna,  each 
led  by  a  turbaned  groom  on  foot,  bore  some  "  prince  of 
the  blood  "  or  high  official  from  palace  to  palace ;  Turks 
in  flowing  robes  and  broad  white  turbans ;  Persians  in 
high  black  caps  and  closely -fitting  tunics;  the  Bokhara 
pilgrim  in  white  head-dress  and  wayworn  garments ;  the 
Bedouin  chief  in  his  tasseled  keffieh  and  striped  aba; 
Bagdad  ladies  in  white  and  scarlet  draperies,  fretted  with 
threads  of  gold,  and  black  horse -hair  veils  concealing 
wanton  eyes;  Persian  women  wrapped  in  shapeless  gar- 
ments, and  Arab  girls  wearing  a  single  blue  skirt,  min- 
gled in  one  motley  throng  in  the  merry  bazaars. 

The  creed,  the  nationality,  the  trade,  the  station  in  life, 
are  indicated  by  the  dress  worn  in  the  street.  The  Jew 
and  Christian  are  known  by  their  dark  robes  and  tur- 
bans, formed  of  blue  muslin  or  Cashmere  shawls.  The 
Persian  is  recognized  by  his  tight  tunic  and  rimless  hat. 
The  desert  Arab  is  distinguished  by  his  silk  head-dress, 
his  woolen  cloak,  and  curved  dagger.  The  Moslem  pro- 
claims his  faith  by  his  clean  white  turban,  and  the  Mo- 
hammedan mollah  by  his  turban  of  green.  And  tlie 
Government  official,  whether  civil  or  military,  is  known 
by  his  European  costume  and  red  fez. 

Such  is  the  cosmopolitan  character  of  the  population 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  109 

of  this  city,  that  St.  Peter  could  have  an  audience  rep- 
resenting all  nations  to  hear  another  pentecostal  sermon. 
Khoords,  Persians,  and  Arabs,  Turks,  Hindoos,  and  Afri- 
cans, French,  Germans,  and  English,  Spaniards  and  Ital- 
ians, Jews  and  Christians,  dwell  within  the  city  walls. 
Of  the  sixty- eight  thousand  inhabitants,  fifty -five  thou- 
sand are  Moslems,  ten  thousand  are  Jews,  two  thousand 
are  native  Christians,  and  the  balance  are  from  all  na- 
tions under  heaven,  except  America. 

The  Jews  are  by  far  the  most  interesting  portion  of 
the  population.  They  claim  to  be  the  descendants  of  the 
captives  carried  into  Babylon.  Some  boast  of  a  pedigree 
from  King  David,  and  recite  the  melodies  once  sung  in 
the  Temple  at  Jerusalem.  Among  the  most  distinguished 
of  their  number  was  Eliezer  Ben  Isamah,  known  as  the 
President  of  the  Fifth  Class,  who  traced  his  descent  from 
the  prophet  Samuel,  and  w^ho  pei'formed  on  the  harp  in 
the  exact  manner  that  was  in  use  in  the  days  of  the  roy- 
al David.  But  one  greater  than  he  was  called  Daniel, 
the  son  of  Hasdai,  and  "  Conductor  of  the  Captivity,"  who 
had  preserved  a  book  of  his  genealogy  in  direct  descent 
from  David.  His  brethren  recognized  him  as  their  lead- 
er, nor  was  the  caliph  slow  to  accord  to  him  the  honor. 
By  order  of  the  Government,  all  classes  of  the  citizens 
were  commanded  to  show  him  due  respect.  When  he 
went  on  a  visit  to  the  caliph,  he  was  attended  by  horse- 
men, and  preceded  by  a  crier,  who  proclaimed,  "  Prepare 
ye  the  way  of  the  Lord  ;  make  his  paths  straight."  He 
was  another  Daniel  in  the  realm.  He  was  attired  in 
robes  of  silk  ornamented  with  Phrygian  embroidery. 
He  wore  a  splendid  tiara,  encircled  with  a  white  veil, 
held  in  its  place  l)y  a  chain  of  gold,  and  he  rode  in  the 
second  chariot  of  the  kingdom."* 

*  Benjamin  of  Tudela. 


110  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Bagdad  is  now  the  head-quarters  of  the  Hebrews  for 
all  parts  of  the  valley  of  the  Euphrates,  from  Hillah  to 
Mosul.  The  ancestors  of  some  of  them  settled  here  two 
hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  having  come  from  Anah,  on 
the  Euphrates,  where  the  captives  were  colonized  after 
the  destruction  of  Jerusalem.  At  present  the  Jews  have 
fourteen  synagogues,  and  ten  schools  for  the  education 
of  their  children.  Here  the  Hebrews  assemble  annual- 
ly from  all  the  neighboring  cities,  to  keep  the  Passover. 
Hither  all  letters  are  directed  and  thence  remailed  to 
their  owners.  As  a  class,  the  Hebrews  are  rich  and  in- 
telligent. Some  are  bankers,  some  are  merchants,  some 
are  goldsmiths.  The  latter  are  the  jewelers  of  Bagdad, 
and  their  bazaar  is  the  most  interesting  portion  of  the 
city.  True  to  their  religious  faith,  they  intermarry,  and 
are  a  nation  within  a  nation.  The  chief  rabbi  is  in  the 
prime  of  life,  and  of  rare  attainments.  I  sought  an  inter- 
view, and  he  complied  with  my  request.  He  expects  the 
restoration  of  his  people  to  the  Promised  Land,  and  is 
living  in  daily  expectation  of  the  Messiah's  advent. 

On  the  Jewish  Sabbath  I  visited  five  of  their  syna- 
gogues. All  are  inferior  structures.  The  largest  and 
best  is  a  court  fifty  feet  square ;  and  on  each  side  are  al- 
coves, wherein  are  seats  covered  with  Persian  carpets. 
In  the  east  side  is  the  Holy  of  Holies.  In  the  centre  is 
a  square  canopy  supported  by  twelve  pillars,  and  from 
the  roof  lamps  depend.  On  the  platform  beneath  the 
canopy  stood  the  ofiiciating  priests,  who  chanted  the 
Psalms  of  David  and  selections  from  the  Law  and  the 
Prophets.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  court  is  a  minia- 
ture temple,  whereon  is  an  inscription  in  Hebrew,  which 
the  people  fondly  kissed  as  they  departed  from  the  sa- 
cred place.  Above  the  lateral  alcoves  are  the  latticed 
apartments  for  the  women.     Some  of  the  Hebrew  ladies 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  HI 

were  extremely  beautiful,  and  their  appearance  indicated 
that  they  loved  their  ornaments  as  did  their  mothers  in 
the  days  of  Isaiah.  All  were  well  and  some  were  rich- 
ly attired,  indicating  their  thrift  and  worldly  prosperity. 
While  I  was  in  the  city  the  whole  Jewish  community 
was  greatly  excited.  One  of  their  merchants  had  sworn 
on  the  Holy  Book  that  he  was  worth  less  than  his  assets 
justified,  and  this  he  had  done  to  avoid  a  financial  obli- 
gation. A  new  disease  had  broken  out  among  the  Jews, 
and  seemed  incurable.  The  priests  regarded  it  as  a  judg- 
ment from  the  Lord  to  punish  this  act  of  perjury ;  and, 
to  appease  the  Almighty's  wrath  and  check  the  disease, 
they  declared  that  the  peijurer  must  confess,  or  be  ex- 
communicated. 

On  a  beautiful  Sabbath  morning  I  visited  the  several 
Christian  churches  of  the  city,  and  witnessed  their  form 
of  worship.  The  Christian  community,  of  tw^o  thousand 
souls,  is  composed  of  five  distinct  sects.  In  accordance 
with  an  old  usage  and  mutual  consent,  the  members  of 
four  of  these  denominations  intermarry.  In  the  mar- 
riage-contract it  is  stipulated  that  the  wife  may  choose 
her  own  church,  but  the  children  must  be  baptized  in 
the  church  of  the  father.  The  Monophysite  Armenians, 
however,  are  averse  to  this  arrangement,  and  decline  to 
marry  those  not  of  their  communion. 

The  Christians  of  Bagdad  are  natives,  and  form  part 
of  the  great  Eastern  Church,  as  distinguished  from  the 
Church  of  the  West.  The  Armenians  are  divided  into 
two  branches,  the  Papists  and  the  Monophysites.  The 
church  of  the  Papal  Armenians  is  a  small  and  inferior 
building.  On  the  high  altar  is  the  picture  of  the  As- 
sumption of  the  Virgin,  and  before  it  the  native  priest 
was  celebrating  mass,  for  the  benefit  of  the  few  females 
who  compose  his  flock.     The  church  of  the  Monophysitic 


112  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Armenians  is  a  low,  plain  edifice.  A  robed  priest  and 
two  deacons  were  officiating  at  the  high  altar.  The 
services  consisted  in  intoning  selections  from  the  Psalms 
and  the  GosjJels,  and  a  sermon  on  repentance,  which  was 
more  brief  than  pointed.  A  silk  curtain  extends  across 
the  chancel,  behind  which  the  venerable  priest  retired, 
as  into  the  Holy  of  Holies,  and  responded  to  the  chant 
by  the  deacons.  At  the  close  of  the  service,  bread  was 
blessed,  and  all  the  people  partook.  During  the  cere- 
mony, one  of  the  deacons  incensed  each  worshiper,  except 
the  women.  According  to  custom,  the  men  sat  on  the 
floor,  and  in  front ;  while  the  women  sat  in  the  I'ear,  and 
behind  a  latticed  frame.  As  each  worshiper  entered  the 
sacred  edifice,  and  also  when  he  retired,  he  made  the 
sign  of  the  cross  thrice,  and  thrice  he  bowed  his  head 
to  the  floor.  While  the  Armenian  ladies  adhere  to  the 
Eastern  style  of  dress,  the  gentlemen  have  donned  the 
costume  of  the  West,  except  the  hat,  in  place  of  which 
they  wear  the  red  fez. 

From  the  Armenian  I  wended  my  way  through 
crooked  lanes  to  the  Syrian  church,  which  is  a  more 
pretentious  structure.  The  Syrian  Christians  are  papal 
in  creed  and  in  ritual,  but  not  subject  to  the  jurisdiction 
of  the  pope.  On  the  walls  of  their  church  are  some  ex- 
cellent pictures  illustrative  of  Scriptural  scenes  and  of 
pious  legends.  Clad  in  elegant  robes,  the  bishop  offi- 
ciated;  and,  at  the  conclusion  of  the  mass,  he  blessed  a 
crucifix,  which  he  presented  to  be  touched  by  the  lay- 
man nearest  the  altar.  Having  touched  the  sacred  em- 
])lem,  he  extended  his  hand  to  the  person  sitting  next  to 
him,  and  thus  the  blessing  was  communicated  to  all  the 
people.  An  old  man  insisted  on  giving  me  the  bless- 
ing, but  I  thought  it  had  become  too  diluted  to  possess 
any  virtue.     I  subsequently  had  an  interview  with  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  113 

bishop  in  his  episcoj^al  residence.  He  was  I'obed  in  pur- 
ple, and  from  a  heavy  gold  chain  dei)ended  a  jeweled 
crucifix.  In  the  course  of  our  conversation,  he  expressed 
the  opinion  that  it  w^ould  be  difficult  to  convert  the 
Moslems  to  the  Christian  faith.  He  recognized  the  pope 
as  head  of  the  Church,  but  declared  himself  independent 
of  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Holy  See.  The  interview  was 
interrupted  by  the  incoming  of  the  bishop's  sister,  who 
seemed  more  interested  in  showino;  me  the  elecjant  robes 
she  had  embroidered  for  the  priests  than  in  conversing 
on  the  state  of  the  Church. 

The  Chaldean  Catholics  have  a  larger  community. 
The  walls  of  their  spacious  church  are  adorned  with  pict- 
ures, and  over  the  altar  is  one  representing  the  Trinity. 
Not  less  than  two  hundred  persons  were  present  at  the 
service.  Having  left  their  shoes  at  the  door,  the  men 
sat  on  the  carpeted  floor  in  front,  and  the  women  sat 
behind  a  screen  in  the  rear.  Two  priests  were  confess- 
ing those  who  approached  them  for  that  purpose. 

The  French  Eoman  Catholic  church  is  a  new  and 
handsome  structure.  The  altar-piece  is  a  noble  picture 
representing  Mary  standing  beneath  the  Cross.  A  hun- 
dred persons  were  present  at  mass,  and  among  the  num- 
ber were  several  Europeans.  Here  the  ^voraen  were  in 
front,  sitting  on  Persian  rugs,  and  the  men  sat  on  benches 
in  the  rear  of  the  spacious  auditorium. 

Although  these  several  churches  differ  in  creed  and 
polit}^,  yet  in  their  ritual  they  are  not  unlike.  Robed 
priests  celebrated  mass ;  clouds  of  incense  perfumed  the 
air;  the  confessional  was  conspicuous  in  each;  and  Mary 
was  prominent  in  all.  Priests  and  people  are  the  repre- 
sentatives of  a  perverted  Christianity. 

In  my  wanderings  among  the  churches  I  had  the  op- 
portunity to  see  the  Christians  of  Bagdad,  observe  their 

8 


114  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

manners,  and  note  their  style  of  dress.  As  in  more  civ- 
ilized countries,  the  ladies  appear  at  church  attired  in 
their  richest  and  most  showy  apparel.  Only  a  few  of 
the  Christian  women  wear  the  veil ;  but,  as  a  custom  and 
an  ornament,  they  envelop  themselves  in  the  elegant  silk 
iza)\  which  is  held  together  at  the  chin  by  the  thumb 
and  forefinger  of  the  right  hand,  so  as  quite  to  cover  the 
face.  Their  fondness  for  jewelry  is  displayed  in  the  ex- 
cess of  their  ornaments,  which  ai'e  numerous  and  showy. 
But  in  nothing  more  are  the  Christian  women  distin- 
guished from  their  sisters  of  the  Moslem  faith  than  in 
their  dress  and  ornaments.  The  street  attire  of  Mos- 
lem women  is  extremely  plain,  and  never  attractive. 
The  veil  is  universal  with  them,  and  constantly  worn 
when  in  public.  Those  of  the  poorer  class  wear  the  yas- 
mak^  made  of  stiff  black  hoi'se-hair,  w^hich  imparts  an 
air  of  poverty  and  gloom.  And  so  completely  are  the 
rich  and  the  poor  disguised  by  the  veil,  that  a  husband 
can  not  recognize  his  w4fe  on  the  street.  Those  who  are 
allied  to  the  Arab  race,  whether  by  blood  or  habits  of 
long  intercourse,  have  a  passion  for  adorning  their  per- 
sons wdtli  blue  stains,  that  are  not  only  indelible,  but 
most  forbidding  in  appearance.  They  stain  their  lower 
lip  with  the  deadly  hue,  their  ankles  with  anklets,  their 
wrists  with  bracelets,  their  breasts  with  wreaths  of  flow- 
ers, and  their  necks  with  a  zone,  in  imitation  of  some 
beautiful  necklace.  And  this  work  of  decorating  the 
female  form  in  the  latest  approved  style  is  performed  by 
professional  artists  in  Bagdad. 

But  there  is  one  ornament  worn  by  both  men  and 
w^omen  of  which  none  are  proud.  It  is  to  them  what  the 
"Aleppo  button  "  and  the  "  Delhi  boil "  are  to  the  people 
of  those  more  distant  cities.  It  is  a  frightful  ulcer  that 
appears  on  the  lip,  on  the  nose,  on  the  chin,  or  on  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  117 

forehead,  and  the  scar  left  is  carried  through  life.  I  did 
not  see  a  native  man  or  woman  of  Basfdad  who  had  not 
this  ornamental  mark.  It  appears  on  every  child  born 
in  the  city  some  time  between  the  sixth  and  twelfth 
month  after  birth,  and  lasts  for  one  year.  It  is  general- 
ly superficial,  but  sometimes  it  sloughs  to  the  bone.  The 
natives  divide  it  into  the  "  male,"  which  is  superficial, 
and  into  the  "female,"  which  is  the  sloughing  ulcer. 
There  is  no  known  remedy,  either  to  prevent  or  to  cure. 
The  Jews  tried  inoculation,  but  without  success.  For- 
eigners and  strangers  are  suVjject  to  it,  and  have  it  on 
the  ankle,  the  wrist,  or  the  nose ;  and  it  has  made  its  ap- 
pearance on  them  long  after  they  have  left  the  city.  Nor 
is  the  brute  exempt  from  the  malady,  as  it  attacks  dogs, 
and  terminates  frequently  in  their  death.  Dr.  Colville, 
the  learned  and  distinguished  English  surgeon  and  phy- 
sician of  the  city,  has  given  the  subject  long  and  careful 
study,  and  to  him  I  am  indebted  for  the  above  facts. 

During  my  sojourn  of  ten  days  in  Bagdad,  I  frequent- 
ly strolled  through  the  bazaars,  which  never  failed  to 
excite  my  curiosity  and  aiford  me  the  pleasure  of  nov- 
elty. Some  of  these  bazaars  are  long,  straight,  and  wide, 
vaulted  with  brick,  with  circular  openings  in  the  ceiling 
for  air  and  light ;  while  others  are  covered  with  a  roof 
of  reed-mats,  supported  by  a  wooden  frame-work.  The 
shops  are  stalls  arranged  on  either  side,  and  therein  are 
displayed  for  sale  the  luscious  fruits  of  the  East,  rich 
confectioneries,  the  clothing  worn  by  all  classes  and  both 
sexes,  the  swords,  daggers,  guns,  and  pistols  carried  by 
the  Bedouins,  the  gay  trappings  for  the  Arab  horse,  the 
tapestry  from  Persia,  silks  from  Aleppo,  pearls  from 
Bahrein,  merchandise  from  England,  and  petroleum  from 
America. 

Commercially  and  politically,  Bagdad  is  the  most  im- 


118  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

portant  city  in  the  Turkish  empii'e  east  of  the  Euphra- 
tes. The  pasha  is  usually  a  high  dignitary,  and  his  pow- 
er is  correspondingly  great.  It  is  a  large  military  sta- 
tion, and  in  connection  therewith  are  extensive  and  well- 
constructed  barracks  and  a  flourishing  military  school. 
It  is  the  residence  of  an  English,  French,  German,  and 
Russian  consul,  who  vie  with  each  other  in  their  vigi- 
lance in  behalf  of  their  respective  governments.  The 
English  political  resident  and  consul-general  has  a  juris- 
diction to  Mosul,  three  hundred  miles  to  the  north-west, 
and  is  supported  in  a  princely  manner.  A  gun -boat  is 
at  anchor  before  his  residence,  and  awaits  his  commands. 
The  present  incumbent  is  a  gentleman  of  culture  and  re- 
finement. In  the  absence  of  a  clergyman  of  the  English 
Church,  Colonel  Herbei't  performs  the  ritualistic  service 
in  the  residency  on  each  Sabbath  morning,  for  the  relig- 
ious benefit  of  his  family  and  those  of  the  European  pop- 
ulation who  wish  to  attend.  But,  unlike  his  most  gra- 
cious sovereign.  Queen  Victoria,  who  esteems  it  a  priv- 
ilege to  commune  in  a  Dissenters'  chapel ;  unlike  the 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  who  sends  his  dean  to  the 
meeting  of  the  Evangelical  Alliance,  largely  composed 
of  Dissenters  ;  unlike  Dean  Stanley,  whose  Christian  lib- 
erality prompted  him  to  invite  a  Dissenting  clergyman 
to  preach  in  Westminster  Abbey,  Colonel  Herbert  could 
not  so  far  overcome  his  sectarian  prejudice  as  to  invite 
to  ofiSciate  in  the  residency  a  Dissenting  minister  who 
might  by  chance  spend  a  Sabbath  in  Bagdad. 

The  banking  capital  of  Bagdad  is  in  the  hands  of  the 
Jews ;  the  foreign  trade  of  the  city  is  controlled  by  Eu- 
ropeans. The  custom-house  is  the  most  extensive  build- 
ing of  the  kind  north-east  of  Bombay.  But  the  extent 
and  value  of  the  trade  can  not  be  easily  ascertained.  All 
parties  regard  secrecy  as  essential  to  success.     The  cus- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  \l\) 

tom-hoiise  officials  decline  to  furnish  the  consuls  with 
trade  statistics;  and  the  agents  of  the  steamship  com- 
panies refuse  to  communicate  the  value  of  the  exports 
and  imports  carried  in  their  vessels,  lest  such  informa- 
tion might  lead  to  the  organization  of  rival  companies. 
But  the  large  number  of  revenue  officials  employed  by 
the  Government,  the  number  of  steam  and  sailinir  vessels 
that  are  entered  and  cleared  at  the  port,  and  the  wealth 
of  the  steamship  companies  engaged  in  the  trade,  sug- 
gest an  approximate  estimate  of  the  business  done.  In 
1873,  ten  thousand  tons  of  wheat  were  shipped  from  this 
port  to  India,  and  the  present  trade  of  the  city  is  ten 
times  larger  than  it  was  five  years  ago.  Caravans  are 
daily  arriving  from  Persia,  from  Damascus,  and  from  the 
Mediterranean, '^^V/  Aleppo  and  Mosul,  loaded  with  goods 
for  the  Bagdad  market ;  and,  on  their  return,  are  loaded 
with  goods  brought  from  India  and  the  Persian  Gulf,  to 
be  distributed  in  all  the  intermediate  inland  towns. 

And  Bagdad  is  rapidly  becoming  a  railroad  centre. 
A  road  is  now  in  operation  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Ti- 
gris, extending  from  the  city  to  Kathimain,  a  distance  of 
six  miles,  and  the  dividends  of  which  are  ten  per  cent, 
per  annum.  At  present  there  is  but  a  single  track,  but 
with  frequent  cut-offs.  The  cars  are  of  Euglish  manufact- 
ure, constructed  with  seats  within  and  on  the  top,  and 
are  now  drawn  by  horse-power.  Three  cars  leave  simul- 
taneously from  each  end  of  the  road,  at  regular  intervals 
of  fifteen  minutes,  and  meet  midway,  where  there  is  a 
long  cut-off.  There  is  a  conductor  on  each  car,  and  the 
fare  is  six  cents.  The  road  was  built  by  the  Turkish 
Government ;  but  the  officials  stole  so  much  that  it  w^as 
sold  to  a  company  of  natives  and  foreigners,  and  now 
pays  ten  per  cent.  There  are  three  brick  depots  for  the 
accommodation  of  passengers  who  travel  on  business,  for 


120  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

pleasure,  or  to  woi'sliip  at  the  sacred  shrines  of  Kathi- 
maiu.  And  a  route  is  now  being  surveyed  for  a  road  to 
extend  from  Kermanshah,  on  the  Persian  frontier,  through 
Bagdad  to  Kerbulle,  near  Khan-el-Haswa,  within  a  day's 
ride  of  the  Tower  of  Babel.  And  the  day  is  in  the  near 
future  when  the  Euphrates  Valley  Bailroad  will  be  an 
accomplished  fact,  connecting,  as  it  will,  the  Mediteri'a- 
nean  ^vith  the  Persian  Gulf;  and  the  child  is  now  in 
its  cradle  who  will  hear  the  conductor  shout, "  Change 
cars  for  Babylon !"    "All  aboard  for  the  Garden  of  Edenl" 

The  only  article  imported  from  the  United  States  and 
sold  in  the  bazaars  of  Bagdad  is  American  petroleum. 
It  is  entered  at  the  port  of  Alexandretta,  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  transported  a  thousand  miles  on  the  back  of 
camels.  It  is  one  of  the  marvels  of  this  marvelous  age, 
that  our  petroleum  is  everywhere  to  be  found  in  the  Le- 
vant and  the  Orient.  It  lights  the  dwellings,  the  tem- 
ples, and  mosques  amidst  the  ruins  of  ancient  Babylon 
and  Nineveh.  It  is  the  light  of  Bagdad,  the  City  of  the 
Thousand  and  One  Nights ;  of  Orfah,  the  birthplace  of 
Abraham  ;  of  Mardeen,  the  Mackis  of  the  Romans ;  and 
of  Damascus,  the  "  Gem  of  the  Orient."  It  burns  in  the 
Grotto  of  the  Nativity  at  Bethlehem,  in  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  in  Jerusalem,  amidst  the  pyramids 
of  Egypt,  on  the  Acropolis  of  Athens,  on  the  Plains  of 
Troy,  and  in  cottage  and  palace  on  the  banks  of  the  Bos- 
phorus  and  the  Golden  Horn. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  good  judges  that  a  lucrative  trade 
might  be  established  between  the  United  States  and  the 
port  of  Bagdad  via  the  Persian  Gulf  Were  the  price 
lessened  by  a  cheaper  transportation,  American  petrole- 
um w^ould  find  a  ready  market  in  the  towns  on  the  Per- 
•  sian  frontier,  and  would  be  thence  carried  to  the  villacres 
and  cities  in  the  interior  of  the  empire ;  it  would  be  in 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  121 

general  demand  in  the  towns  on  the  Tigris  and  Euphra- 
tes ;  and  the  quantity  consumed  in  Bagdad  and  the  ad- 
jacent country  would  be  incalculably  increased.  And, 
were  the  proper  measures  adopted,  American  agricultur- 
al implements  might  be  introduced  to  supersede  the  rude 
implements  that  have  been  in  use  since  the  days  of  Adam. 
The  valleys  of  the  Euphrates  and  of  the  Tigris  are  among 
the  richest  and  most  magnificent  grain  and  pasture  lands 
in  the  world,  and  the  produce  thereof  might  be  indefi- 
nitely increased  by  the  introduction  of  improved  imj^le- 
ments  of  tillage.  Other  products  of  the  creative  genius 
of  our  country  have  found  a  market  in  the  East. 

The  American  sewing-machine  is  used  by  the  natives 
in  Beirut,  in  Damascus,  in  Jerusalem,  and  would  com- 
mand a  high  price  in  the  valley  of  the  Euphrates  ;  and 
the  I'eturn  trade  in  dates,  in  wool,  in  Persian  carpets,  in 
Aleppo  silks,  would  be  correspondingly  large.  The  rich- 
est dates  grow  here.  The  largest  flocks  of  sheep  and 
o-oats  are  to  be  found  in  this  section  of  Turkey,  and  the 
quantity  of  wool  produced  is  immense.  A  better  qual- 
ity, and  at  lower  prices,  can  be  obtained  here  than  that 
which  is  now  shipped  to  the  United  States  from  ports 
on  the  Mediterranean.  The  Persian  carpets  would  not 
only  be  an  ornament,  but  a  serviceable  article,  and 
would  be  in  demand  were  they  largely  introduced  into 
the  American  market ;  and  the  native  silks,  especially 
those  embroidered  with  gold  and  silver  thread,  and 
made  up  into  divan-covers,  opera-cloaks,  sacks,  and  jack- 
ets, would  be  exceedingly  pleasing  to  our  American 
ladies. 


122  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


CHAPTER  III. 

Five  Days  among  the  Ruins  of  Ancient  Babylon. — Preparations  for  the 
Journey. — Early  Start. — Bridge  of  Boats.— Crowd  of  Peojjle. — Celebrated 
Tombs. — Raising  Water. — Luncheon  by  the  Way-side. — First  View  of  the 
Ancient  Ruins. — The  Pilgrim's  Khan. — First  Night  among  the  Ruins. — 
Again  in  the  Saddle. — Ancient  Walls. — Arab  Villages. — Telegraph  Poles. 
— The  Old  Canals. — Remains  of  Belshazzar's  Palace. — The  Famous  Hang- 
ing Gardens. — Daniel's  Lion's  Den. — Harps  on  the  Willows.^ — Rivers  of 
Babylon. — The  Euphrates. — Immense  Palm-groves. — Bridge  of  Boats. — 
Modern  Hillah. — Our  Khan. — American  Petroleum. — Telegraph  Station. 
— Call  upon  the  Pasha. — Playing  with  a  Lion. — Sail  on  the  Euphrates. — 
A  Night  in  Hillah. — Start  for  the  Tower  of  Babel. — Dangers  in  the  Way. 
— Wonderful  Ruins. — Ascend  the  Tower  of  Babel. — The  Fiery  Furnace. — 
The  Glory  of  Babylon. — Progress  of  its  Decline. — Proj)hecy  Fulfilled. — 
The  Warriors  of  the  Desert. — Return  to  Bagdad. 

The  centra]  ruins  of  ancient  Babj^lon  are  sixty  miles 
to  the  south-west  from  Bagdad.  The  renowned  city  oc- 
cupied a  portion  of  the  peninsula  formed  by  the  Tigris 
and  the  Euphrates.  The  length  of  that  peninsula  from 
Bagdad  to  the  Garden  of  Eden  is  three  hundred  miles, 
and  its  average  breadth  is  less  than  thirt}j  miles.  It 
is  narrowest  opposite  Seleucia  and  Ctesiphon,  and  broad- 
est south  of  Babylon,  between  Al-Khuidr  and  El-Shib. 
Upon  this  "  narrow  neck  of  land  "  are  those  mighty  ruins 
which  we  were  now  to  explore,  and  thereon  occurred 
those  great  events  that  have  made  the  name  of  Baby- 
lon imperishable  in  the  annals  of  time,  and  the  scene  of 
which  we  were  now  to  visit. 

The  road  thither  was  rough,  the  fatigue  was  excessive, 
and  the  dangers  were  great,  but  the  com2:)ensation  out- 
weighed them  all.  The  mode  of  traveling  is  by  horse, 
or  camel,  or  mule,  or  Icliajawali^  or  tnhhteravan,  or  on 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  123 

foot,  as  wealtli  may  permit  or  taste  incline.  We  chose 
horses,  which  are  kept  for  hire  at  Bagdad  for  something 
more  than  a  dollar  per  day.  Through  the  kindness  of 
Captain  Cowley,  we  had  secured  a  servant  who  could 
speak  enough  English  to  be  a  medium  of  communica- 
tion, but  who  had  such  extravagant  notions  of  an  Amer- 
ican's wealth  as  to  demand  three  dollars  a  day.  The 
British  consul  -  creneral  had  commissioned  his  cawass, 
Ashur,  to  accompany  us  as  guide  and  for  military  pro- 
tection. To  him  was  intrusted  an  order  from  the  Pasha 
of  Bagdad  to  the  Governor  of  Hillah,  informing  the  lat- 
ter that  we  were  American  travelers  to  the  ruins  of  Bab- 
ylon ;  that  we  were  peaceable  and  honorable  persons ; 
and  that  he  should  receive  us  with  all  j^roper  attention, 
and  protect  us  to  the  extent  of  his  power.  We  were 
to  mount  horses  that  were  small,  tough,  and  swift.  We 
were  to  lodge  in  khans,  more  remarkable  for  their  size 
than  they  are  for  their  cleanness ;  and  we  were  to  eat 
the  food  of  the  Arabs,  more  luscious  to  the  taste  than 
pleasing  to  the  sight. 

At  seven  in  the  morning,  all  were  ready.  Mounting 
our  horses,  we  rode  slowly  through  the  narrow  streets 
of  the  city  to  the  great  gate  that  opens  to  the  bridge  of 
boats  which  spans  the  Tigris.  The  roar  of  the  current, 
the  dilapidated  condition  of  the  bridge,  the  multitude 
of  persons  and  animals  thereon,  caused  our  horses  to  shy 
and  caper,  no  little  to  our  annoyance.  Only  Turks 
would  tolerate  such  a  bridge,  and  collect  toll  for  the 
danger  of  crossing  thereon.  Safely  over,  we  entered  the 
bazaars  on  the  western  bank,  filled  with  people  j)urchas- 
ing  food  for  the  morning  meal.  Ashur  led  the  caravan, 
and  the  people  opened  ranks  sufiiciently  to  allow  us  to 
pass  single  file.  Our  "  elect  lady  "  was  the  absorbing 
object  of  attraction  to  men   and  women,  who  laughed 


124:  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

and  chatted  as  she  passed  in  review  before  them ;  and, 
had  she  been  a  visitant  fi'om  the  moon,  she  eonld  not 
have  excited  greater  wonder.  After  passing  through 
noble  j)ahn-groves,  we  were  on  a  vast  plain  dotted  with 
tombs,  huts,  and  statelier  structures.  Near  us  and  on 
our  right  was  the  tomb  of  the  beautiful  Zobeida,  the 
favorite  wife  of  Haroun-al-Raschid,  celebrated  in  "The 
Arabian  Nights;"  and  beyond  were  the  golden  domes 
and  lofty  minarets  of  Kathimain,  where  sleep  in  death 
the  descendants  of  the  ill-fated  Hosien-Ali.  As  we  ad- 
vanced, we  passed  caravans  of  camels,  trains  of  don- 
keys, and  processions  of  pilgrims  to  some  Mohammedan 
shrine.  In  one  hour  we  reached  the  Tigris,  which  bends 
to  the  westward  in  a  long  and  sweeping  curve,  where 
many  native  boats  were  at  anchor  awaiting  a  favorable 
wind  to  waft  them  against  the  powerful  current.  Near 
the  curve  were  a  few  Arab  huts,  where  fruit  and  other 
refreshments  were  for  sale.  Around  the  village  were 
pretty  gardens  and  fields  of  grain,  which  men  were  irri- 
o-atins:  in  the  followino;  novel  manner.  A  semicircular 
recess  twenty  feet  in  diameter  had  been  made  in  the 
bank  of  the  river;  over  this  a  frame-work  had  been 
erected,  composed  of  the  trunks  of  the  date-tree,  and  con- 
sisting of  two  upright  posts  and  a  transverse  bar.  On 
the  transverse  bar  were  rollers,  and  over  the  rollers  trav- 
ersed a  rope.  To  one  end  of  the  rope  was  attached  a 
large  leather  bucket,  which  descended  to  the  river  by  its 
own  weight  and  soon  filled ;  the  other  end  of  the  rope 
was  listened  to  an  ox,  which  was  driven  over  a  steep  ar- 
tificial slope  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees,  and,  thus 
uniting  its  weight  with  its  strength,  raised  the  heavy 
bucket.  The  water  was  then  poured  into  a  small  con- 
duit, and  conveyed  to  the  gardens  and  fields  through  lit- 
tle canals  that  ran  in  every  direction.     It  was  altogether 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  125 

a  primitive  and  clumsy  method  of  irrigation,  and  indi- 
cated the  absence  of  mechanical  skill  amono;  the  Arab 
farmers. 

We  were  now  on  the  great  plain  of  Chaldea,  bleak  and 
barren  as  a  desert.  The  mirage  was  frequent  and  illu- 
sive as  ever.  Out  of  the  apparent  water  rose  the  tall 
palm-trees,  too  tempting  to  weary  travelers.  In  two 
hours  we  were  at  Khan  Cheqwah,  where  were  mounds 
of  buried  ruins.  The  great  plain  was  covered  with  a 
perfect  net-work  of  ancient  canals  and  water-courses;  but 
a  "  drought  is  upon  her  waters,  and  they  shall  be  dried 
up."*  Their  lofty  embankments,  stretching  far  away  in 
long  lines  till  lost  in  the  hazy  distance,  or  magnified  by 
the  mirage  into  mountains,  still  defy  the  hand  of  time, 
and  seem  rather  the  work  of  nature  than  of  man.  For 
two  hours  we  rode  through  a  scene  of  solitude  and  deso- 
lation to  Khan  Azaad,  where  we  w^ere  only  too  glad  to 
dismount  from  our  hard  Arab  saddle,  and  refresh  our- 
selves with  lehhen,  or  sour  milk,  and  eat  the  coarse  bread 
of  the  desert.  Hei'e  the  Arab  men  and  women  gathered 
around  us  in  wild  wonderment,  examined  our  cloths,  and 
made  remarks  which  we  were  fortunate  enough  not  to 
understand.  The  Arab's  sense  of  the  ludicrous  is  quick 
and  keen,  and  what  to  us  is  the  most  fashionable  is  to 
him  the  most  ridiculous.  He  can  be  as  grave  as  a  grave- 
stone, and  as  merry  as  a  clown.  Their  criticisms  on  our 
dress,  on  our  mode  of  eating,  on  our  intonations,  excited 
roars  of  lauojhter  amons:  the  admirino-  crowd. 

Again  in  the  saddle,  we  passed  Khan  Mahmoodieh  in 
two  houi's,  and  an  hour  later  we  were  opposite  the  unoc- 
cupied Khan-el-Beer,  We  all  felt  the  fatigue  of  the  ride, 
but  there  was  no  help  for  us.     No  traveler  accustomed 

*  Jeremiuli  1.,  38. 


120 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


to  the  roomy,  elegant  saddle  of  the  West  should  attempt 
to  use  the  narrow  saddle  of  the  Arab ;  if  he  does,  he  will 
pay  a  penalty  of  indescribable  pain.  Onward  we  rode 
for  two  and  a  half  hours,  which  seemed  as  many  days. 
Owing  to  the  illusive  atmosphere  of  Chaldea,  the  great 
Khan-el-Haswah  seemed  "  near,  yet  so  for."  It  was  now 
five  o'clock.  We  had  come  just  half-way,  or  a  distance 
of  twenty-seven  miles.  The  sun  was  declining ;  the  air 
was  growing  chilly,  and  safety  required  us  to  halt  for 
the  night.  Reining  our  jaded  horses  up  to  the  great 
khan,  we  gladly  dismounted,  and  prepared  for  a  night's 
lodgings  with  the  "  beasts  of  the  stall." 


"^ 


THE   KHAN. 


But  what  a  place  to  sleep  in,  especially  for  a  lady ! 
As  the  pencil  is  more  effective  than  the  pen  in  conveying 
an  idea  of  a  khan,  the  accompanying  sketch,  from  a  pho- 
tograph taken  on  the  spot,  will  enable  you  to  conceive 
the  more  readily  the  appearance  of  a  hotel  on  the  desert 
plains  of  Chaldea.  The  Khan-el-Haswah  is  an  immense 
inclosure,  with  a  wall  eighty  feet  square  and  twenty  feet 
high,  and  built  of  ancient  bricks  dug  up  from  the  ruins 
of  nobler  structures.  Its  corners  are  truncated.  The  en- 
trance is  a  high,  semi-cupola;  along  the  front  wall  is  a 
brick  terrace  four  feet  high  and  as  many  wide,  for  trav- 
elers to  rest  on  during  the  day.     Within  the  entrance  is 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  127 

an  alcove  at  each  of  the  four  corners,  with  a  brick  plat- 
form four  feet  high,  and  sufficiently  sj^acious  for  three 
persons  to  sleep  thereon.  From  these  alcoves  there  ex- 
tends a  covered  arched  passage-way  around  the  four  sides 
of  the  building,  with  recesses  on  the  inner  side  ten  feet 
high,  with  a  platform  three  feet  from  the  ground,  and  six 
by  six  in  area.  On  the  outside  of  this  covered  passage, 
and  fronting  the  interior  court,  are  similar  chambers,  open 
to  the  air,  yet  sufficiently  sheltered  from  the  sun  in  all 
his  points  of  bearing  during  all  the  hours  of  the  day. 
There  are  twelve  of  these  recesses  on  each  side  of  the 
square ;  and  in  the  centre  of  the  interior  court  are  raised 
platforms  of  brick- work,  for  travelers  to  sleep  on  during 
the  summer,  when  the  heat  is  so  intense.  Towering  high 
above  the  wall  is  the  minaret,  from  w^hose  balcony  the 
Moslem  traveler  is  called  to  prayers.  These  great  khans 
are  about  six  miles  apart,  extending  the  whole  distance 
between  Bagdad  and  Babylon.  They  were  built  by 
Persian  kings,  or  wealthy  and  pious  men  of  the  same 
nation,  for  the  accommodation  of  pilgrims  to  the  sacred 
shrines.  But  they  are  more  generally  used  as  a  place  of 
safety  from  the  midnight  depredations  of  thieving  Arabs, 
who  roam  over  these  Chaldean  plains  in  quest  of  plun- 
der, and  from  the  wild  beasts  of  the  desert,  who  seek  theii* 
prey  under  cover  of  the  night.  Pilgrim  and  traveler  so 
time  their  journey  as  to  reach  one  of  these  caravansaries 
ere  the  sun  sets,  and  hither  the  shepherd  leads  his  flock 
of  sheep  and  goats  for  shelter  and  protection.  When  all 
are  in,  and  while  yet  the  twilight  lingers,  the  great  doors 
are  shut  and  bolted,  nor  are  they  opened  again  till  the 
morning  light  appears.  These  caravansaries  are  free  to 
all,  without  money  and  without  price,  and  are  the  cheap- 
est and  filthiest  hotels  known  to  mankind.  We  occupied 
a  series  of  alcoves  north  of  the  main  entrance.    The  floor 


128  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

was  covered  with  fine  straw,  dust,  and  fleas.  In  all  the 
adjoining  recesses  were  Arabs — some  smoking,  some  eat- 
ing, some  sleeping.  From  the  women  of  the  village  we 
bought  eggs,  milk,  bread,  and  pomegranates,  and,  after 
our  frugal  repast,  we  spread  our  rugs  and  blankets  on 
the  brick  platform,  and  lay  down  to  pleasant  slumber. 
But  sleep  was  impossible ;  for  at  our  feet  horses  neighed, 
sheep  bleated,  donkeys  brayed ;  and  to  these  harmonies 
the  Moslem  added  his  humdrum  chant,  and  the  shepherd 
the  rude  music  of  his  cracked  flute.  It  was  a  free  con- 
cert. And  when  beast  and  shej^herd  grew  weary  of 
their  own  familiar  tones,  then  we  were  assailed  front  and 
rear,  right  and  left,  feet  and  head,  by  the  '■'■  jleaing  artil- 
lery," whose  thirst  for  blood  was  insatiable.  And  so 
passed  our  first  night  among  the  ruins  of  Babylon. 

At  five  the  next  morning  the  great  doors  of  Khan-el- 
Haswah  w^ere  opened,  and  we  gladly  resumed  our  jour- 
ney. Weary  of  my  Arab  saddle,  I  joined  a  procession 
of  pilgrims,  and  walked  two  miles.  But  the  constant 
danger  of  being  surprised  by  marauding  Bedouins  com- 
pelled me  to  mount.  On  our  right,  and  near  the  Eu- 
phrates, was  the  great  khan  of  Hadjee  Suliman,  where 
the  pilgrims  stop  en  route  for  the  tomb  of  the  Prophet 
Ezekiel,  which  is  beyond  the  river.  We  soon  came  to 
an  extensive  circular  ridge,  that  may  be  part  of  an  old 
wall,  or  the  embankment  of  an  ancient  canal,  against  the 
sides  of  which  the  sands  of  the  desert  had  been  driven 
by  the  winds.  Over  all  that  plain,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  are  ancient  mounds,  remains  of  old  canals, 
fragments  of  furnace -baked  bricks,  of  fine  red  pottery 
glazed  in  red  and  green  and  blue  colors,  and  heaps  of 
the  ruins  of  once  proud  structures.  In  four  hours  we 
reached  the  Khan  Mohaweel,  where  we  lunched  on  eggs, 
ciibiB^  lehhen^  dates,  oranges,  and  wheat-cakes  a  foot  in  di- 


•      *  BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  129 

ameter.  These  refreshments  were  bought  from  the  wom- 
en of  the  desert,  whose  lower  lips  w^ere  colored  with  a 
blue  stain,  whose  faces  were  otherwise  tattooed  with  blue 
and  red  colors,  the  palms  of  w^hose  hands  were  stained 
with  the  yellow  henna,  who  had  rings  on  their  toes,  and 
huG:e  rino-s  in  their  noses.  Around  the  khan  are  a  few 
mud-huts,  constructed  in  the  form  of  a  bee -hive,  in  the 
top  of  which  is  an  aperture  for  the  smoke  to  go  out  and 
for  the  light  to  enter.  A  few  paces  to  the  south  of  the 
village  is  the  largest  canal  we  had  yet  seen,  and  filled 
with  water  from  the  Euphrates.  On  measuring  it,  I 
found  it  to  be  forty  feet  from  bank  to  bank,  and  fifteen 
feet  from  the  top  of  the  bridge  to  the  surface  of  the  wa- 
ter. The  bridge  is  sixty  feet  long,  constructed  of  ancient 
bricks,  and  at  its  south  end  are  two  rough  conical  brick 
pillars.  The  water  is  four  feet  deep,  and  men  were  at 
work  dipping  it  up  and  pouring  it  into  small  canals  for 
irrigation.  Women  and  girls  descended  the  steep  bank 
of  the  main  canal,  filled  their  large  earthen  jars  with  the 
water  for  household  uses,  and,  like  the  Jewish  maidens, 
placed  the  jar  upon  the  shoulder,  and  gracefully  bore  it 
to  their  homes.  The  women  are  the  water-carriers  in 
the  East,  and  in  every  village  and  encampment  I  visited 
I  saw  them  at  the  spring  or  well  or  river  filling  their 
pitchers,  as  of  old.  Not  far  from  the  bridge  was  a  grain- 
field  of  twenty  acres,  and  on  it  was  a  cluster  of  date- 
palms,  which  looked  beautiful  in  contrast  with  the  arid 
desert  around  me.  This  oasis  owed  its  life  and  beauty 
to  the  neighboring  canal,  whose  waters  came  from  the 
Euphrates,  which  was  ten  miles  to  the  eastward.  In- 
deed, water  is  the  chief  requisite  to  make  the  "dfesert 
rejoice,  and  blossom  as  the  rose."*     The  fertility  of  the 

*  Isaiah  xxxv.,  1. 

9 


130  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

plains  of  Chaldea  would  be  restored  ^vere  its  numerous 
canals  once  more  in  existence.  There  is  now  on  these 
great  plains  what  the  Arab  calls  a  "jungle,"  consisting 
of  a  bush  afoot  high,  and  hither  the  shepherds  lead  their 
flocks  during  the  day,  but  return  with  them  to  the  khan 
at  night,  to  escape  the  robbers  and  the  beasts  of  prey. 
The  flocks  were  in  good  condition  ;  the  fleece  was  long 
and  thick.  As  we  advanced,  we  saw  herds  of  camels 
feeding  in  the  jungle,  and  by  them  stood  their  keepers, 
armed  to  the  teeth,  and  prepared  to  protect  their  herds 
from  the  clutch  of  the  thief  or  the  jaws  of  the  wild 
beast. 

All  around  us  were  mounds  of  ruins,  the  sad  remains 
of  Babylon's  departed  greatness.  I  wandered  on  pur- 
pose from  the  party,  and  sought  solitude.  Thoughts  of 
the  mighty  past  filled  my  mind.  I  dismounted,  and 
walked  over  the  great  plains  of  Chaldea,  and  recalled 
the  historic  past,  when  Nabopolassar  and  Nebuchadnez- 
zar, Belshazzar  and  Cyrus,  Darius  and  Xerxes,  Alexander 
and  his  generals,  were  the  mighty  actors  on  this  great 
stage  of  the  world's  history ;  when  Daniel  and  his  breth- 
ren were  captives  by  its  classic  waters ;  when  Greek  met 
Assyrian,  and  Roman  met  Persian  in  the  battle  array,  to 
fight  for  empire  and  renown  ;  when  palace  and  castle, 
tower  and  temple,  massive  walls  and  brazen  gates,  stood 
in  their  glory,  where  now  their  remains  are  strewed  ;  when 
gardens  bloomed,  and  fountains  played,  and  millions  of 
people  lived  in  pride  and  luxury.  But,  alas  !  how  un- 
like the  past  is  the  present !  The  Lord  of  hosts  hath 
spoken  :  "And  Babylon  shall  become  heaps,  a  dwelling- 
placfe  for  dragons,  an  astonishment,  and  a  hissing."'^  The 
renowned  king  and  mighty  warrior  are  no  more  ;  the 

*  Jeremiah  li.,  37- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  131 

great  empire  has  ceased  to  be;  palaces  and  towers  are 
heaps  of  ruins. 

But  the  sadness  of  such  reflections  was  relieved  by  a 
sublime  fact.  The  telegraph  extends  from  Bagdad  to 
Babylon,  and  all  along  our  weary  path  it  had  been  to 
me  the  promise  of  a  better  future.  The  poles  are  of  iron, 
to  prevent  injury  from  beast  or  Bedouin,  and  are  con- 
structed, like  a  telescope,  for  easy  transportation.  There 
are  two  wires,  and  the  sighing  of  the  winds  thereon  was 
like  the  mournful  music  of  the  winds  on  the  Hebrew 
harps  that  hung  upon  the  willows.  As  I  wandered  over 
the  dreary  plains,  I  placed  my  right  hand  on  one  of  the 
poles,  and  felt  that  I  grasped  one  of  the  pillars  of  our 
modern  civilization. 

Not  far  from  the  large  canal  of  Mohaweel  was  a  long 
line  of  earthen  ramparts,  which  doubtless  were  a  part 
of  the  great  wall  of  Babylon,  and  which  now  mark  the 
northern  remains  of  the  ancient  city.  Ascending  their 
summit,  we  obtained  a  view  of  the  boundless  plain, 
through  which,  and  on  our  right,  flowed  the  Euphrates, 
with  its  dark  belt  of  evergreen  palms.  Around  us  were 
low  mounds,  covered  in  part  by  the  drifted  sands,  and 
beneath  which  are  the  walls  and  foundations  of  former 
buildings.  As  we  rode  onward,  it  was  not  diflftcult  to 
trace  the  lines  of  the  ancient  streets,  and  the  once  beauti- 
ful squares  of  the  city.  On  every  hand  were  the  proofs 
that  the  Babylonians  did  not  neglect  the  advantages  be- 
stowed upon  them  by  nature.  By  a  system  of  naviga- 
ble canals,  that  may  well  excite  the  admiration  of  even 
the  modern  engineer,  they  connected  the  Tigris  and  the 
Euphrates,  those  great  arteries  of  commerce.  With  a 
skill  showing  no  conunon  knowledge  of  the  art  of  sur- 
veying, and  of  the  principles  of  hydraulics,  they  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  different  levels  in  the  plains,  and  of  the 


132 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


periodical  overflow  of  the  two  rivers,  to  complete  the 
water  communication  between  all  parts  of  the  province, 
and  to  fertilize,  by  artificial  irrigation,  the  otherwise  bar- 
ren and  unproductive  soil.  So  thoroughly  impressed 
was  Alexander  the  Great  with  the  importance  of  these 
works,  that  he  ordered  the  canals  cleansed  and  repaired, 
and  superintended  the  work  in  person,  steering  his  boat 


with  his  own  hand  through  the  channels.* 


During  our 


ANCIENT  BABYLONIAN  CANALS. 


morning  ride  we  crossed  five  of  the  larger  of  these  ca- 
nals, two  of  which  were  dry.  At  one  place  the  natives 
were  at  work  digging  a  canal  to  irrigate  their  gardens 
and  grain-fields.  But  it  was  apparent  that  they  worked 
on  a  different  plan  from  that  adopted  by  the  Babylo- 
nians.    The  bottom  of  the  ancient  canals  was  on  a  level 


*  Layard. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  133 

with  the  ground,  and  the  material  for  the  embankments 
was  brought  to  the  sj^ot ;  but  the  modern  canal  is  dug, 
and  its  banks  consist  of  the  dirt  thrown  up. 

At  eleven  o'clock  we  gained  our  first  view  of  Mnjelibe, 
where  stood  the  magnificent  palace  of  Nebuchadnezzar. 
The  sight  w^as  an  inspiration,  and  onward  we  rode.  In 
a  direct  line  it  seemed  not  far,  but  between  us  and  it 
there  was  a  deep  canal  hidden  from  our  view.  So  ex- 
citing was  the  prospect  that  I  rode  directly  for  the  great 
mound,  but  found  the  canal  impassable.  It  required  an 
hour  to  reach  the  bridge,  on  whose  southern  end  were 
two  conical  brick  columns.  When  on  the  bridge,  w^e 
were  to  the  south  of  the  mound.  But,  turning  abruptly, 
and  following  the  south  bank  of  the  canal,  we  were  soon 
on  the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  Babylon's  great  king. 

Called  by  the  Arabs  Mujelibe — "the  overturned" — 
and  identified  by  Rich,  by  Buckingham,  by  Layard,  as 
the  remains  of  the  great  palace  of  Nebuchadnezzai*,  the 
mound  is  an  oblong  square,  whose  sides  face  the  four  car- 
dinal points,  whose  circumference  is  twenty-one  hundred 
and  eleven  feet,  and  whose  highest  point  is  one  hundred 
and  forty  feet  above  the  surrounding  plain.  The  western 
face  presents  the  appearance  of  a  building,  and  near  the 
summit  are  the  remains  of  a  low  wall,  composed  of  un- 
burned  bricks,  cemented  with  clay-mortar  of  great  thick- 
ness. On  the  south-west  corner  of  the  summit  are  the 
ruins  of  one  of  the  four  towers  which  ornamented  the 
once  grand  structure.  Over  all  its  sides  and  summit 
were  fragments  of  pottery,  vitrified  bricks,  glass  vessels 
and  ornaments  of  mother-of  pearl.  In  the  northern  side 
I  entered  a  recess,  high  enough  to  stand  in,  and  on  two 
sides  are  brick  walls  of  superior  construction,  and  from 
the  recess  ran  a  passage  to  the  right,  entering  the  very 
heart  of  the  mound.     Near  this  passage-way  a  quantity 


134  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

of  marble  liad  been  discovered,  and,  subsequently,  a  cof- 
fin of  mulbeny-wood,  containing  a  human  body,  inclosed 
in  a  liglit  wrapper,  and  partially  covered  with  bitumen, 
which  crumbled  into  dust  when  exposed  to  tlie  air.  And 
in  another  naiTow  passage  nearly  ten  feet  high,  and  orig- 
inally lined  with  finely  burned  brick,  on  which  were  in- 
scriptions, a  second  wooden  cofiSn  was  found,  containing 
a  skeleton  in  a  good  state  of  j)reservation.  Under  the 
head  of  the  cofiin  was  a  round  stone,  and  attached  to  the 
outside  of  the  cofi&n  was  a  brass  bird,  and  inside  w^as  an 
ornament  of  the  same  material,  which  had  been  suspended 
to  some  part  of  the  skeleton.  Near  this  was  also  found 
the  skeleton  of  a  child.  The  brass  ornaments  indicated 
a  high  antiquity,  but  whose  are  the  remains  it  was  im2:)0S- 
sible  to  tell.  These  excavated  recesses  are  now  the  dens 
of  wild  beasts,  as  in  them  are  the  bones  of  sheep  and  of 
other  animals,  together  with  a  lai'ge  quantity  of  porcu- 
pine quills,  and  from  them  came  a  smell  like  that  of  a 
lion.  In  all  those  cavities  are  owls  and  bats,  foretold  by 
Isaiah  :  "  Wild  beasts  of  the  desert  shall  be  there ;  their 
houses  shall  be  full  of  doleful  creatures ;  and  owls  shall 
dwell  there,  and  satyrs  shall  dance  there."'"^' 

As  we  w^andered  over  this  great  mound,  penetrating 
its  recesses,  threading  its  narrow,  winding  ravines,  clam- 
bering its  steep,  rugged  sides,  we  were  convinced  that  it  is 
composed  of  the  remains  of  many  different  edifices,  such 
as  belonged  to  a  great  palace.  Not  a  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  from  its  base,  on  the  northern  and  western  sides,  are 
low  mounds,  the  traces  of  the  triple  walls  which  once  in- 
closed the  royal  palace  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  king  of  Baby- 
lon. The  view  from  the  summit  of  the  mound  was  ex- 
ceedingly impressive,  and  filled  the  mind  with  thoughts 


Rich. 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH. 


135 


of  the  miglity  past.  On  our  right,  and  not  far  away,  the 
Euphrates  flowed  majestically  through  verdant  banks, 
until  lost  to  sight  amidst  the  palm -groves  of  Hillah, 
whose  mosques  and  minarets  were  seen  five  miles  to  the 
southward  ;  while  six  miles  beyond  appeared  the  Tower 
of  Babel,  now  a  fragment  of  one  of  the  greatest  struct- 
ures reared  by  the  hand  of  man.  A  mile  to  the  south 
of  us  were  the  remains  of  the  once  beautiful  Hanging 
Gardens,  constructed  to  please  the  Median  queen,  and 


BELSHAZZAR  S   PALACB. 


justly  considered  one  of  the  Seven  Wonders  of  the 
World.  Before  us,  stretching  far  aw^ay  to  the  northward 
and  to  the  southward,  were  lofty  banks  of  ancient  ca- 
nals that  fret  the  country  like  natural  ridges ;  and  here, 
there,  and  everywhere  were  shapeless  mounds,  covered 
with  fragments  of  glass,  marble,  pottery,  and  inscribed 
bricks,  mingled  with  a  white  nitrous  soil,  whose  blanched 
appearance  completed  the  picture  of  desolation. 

We  were  standing  on  the  platform,  on  which   stood 
the  superb  palace  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  the  magnificence  of 


136  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

which  excited  the  admiration  of  all  who  beheld  it.  At 
once  a  castle  and  a  palace,  it  was  surrounded  by  a  triple 
wall,  whose  inner  gates  were  made  of  the  brass  taken 
from  Jerusalem,  and  once  composed  the  sacred  vessels  in 
the  Temple  of  Solomon.*  The  outer  wall  was  high  and 
stately,  six  miles  in  circumference,  and  constructed  of 
well -burned  bricks.  Within  the  third  was  the  second 
wall,  four  miles  in  circuit,  upon  which  were  portrayed 
all  kinds  of  living  animals,  and  wrought  in  curious  col- 
ors. Within  the  second,  and  immediately  surrounding 
the  palace,  was  the  first  wall,  whose  circuit  was  over 
three  miles,  whose  height  and  thickness  were  greater 
than  either  of  the  others,  and  on  whose  interior  face  were 
delineations  of  hunting- scenes,  representing  the  queen 
on  horseback  striking  a  leopard  through  with  a  dart; 
and  near  her  the  king,  in  close  fight  with  a  lion,  pier- 
cing him  with  a  lance.  Within  the  triple  inclosure,  and 
on  this  platform,  rose  the  palace,  which  far  excelled  in 
magnificence  any  other  in  the  empire,  and  wherein  the 
walls  were  varnished;  the  wood -work  was  gilded  and 
silvered,  and  the  saloons  and  halls  and  chambers  were 
ornamented  with  representations  of  the  sun,  moon,  and 
stars,  of  birds  and  beasts,  of  kings  aud  queens  in  the  re- 
splendent robes  of  royalty,  the  work  of  artists  who  un- 
derstood the  use  of  color,  and  who  displayed  such  a  taste 
in  its  combination  in  ornamental  designs  as  to  greatly 
excite  the  admiration  of  the  strangers  who  came  to  Bab- 
ylon.f  The  walls  of  the  banqueting -hall  were  coated 
with  mortar  and  plaster  of  the  finest  quality,  and  uj)on 
the  plaster  of  the  wall  of  the  king's  palace  the  fingers  of 
a  man's  hand  came  forth  and  wrote,  "  Mene,  meiste,  tekel 
upiiARSTisr." J    Here  Belshazzar  gave  that  memorable  feast 

*  3  Kings  XXV.,  13.  t  Layard.  \  Daniel  v.,  25. 


BABYLOX  AND  NINEVEH.  137 

to  a  thousand  of  his  lords,  whereat  he  and  his  princes,  his 
wives  and  his  concubines,  drank  wine  from  the  golden 
and  silver  vessels  wdiich  Nebuchadnezzar  had  taken  out 
of  the  temple  at  Jerusalem,  and  which  feast  was  termi- 
nated so  abruptly  by  a  ghastly  apparition,  and  so  dis- 
astrously, by  the  murder  of  the  king  and  royal  guard. 
Here  Daniel,  an  eye-witness  to  both,  reproved  kings,  de- 
fended his  captive  brethren,  and  displayed  a  devotion 
to  his  God  which  power  could  not  intimidate,  nor  royal 
favors  corrupt. 

Descending  from  the  summit  of  the  mound,  and  re- 
mounting our  horses,  we  rode  for  a  mile  across  a  valley 
covered  with  rank  grass,  and  crossed  by  a  line  of  low 
ridges  composed  of  brick  and  mortar.  We  were  now  on 
the  margin  of  the  river,  and  found  it  delightfid  to  wan- 
der along  its  palm-grove  banks,  and  perhaps  near  where 
the  Hebrew  captives  hung  their  harps  upon  the  willows 
and  wept  when  they  remembered  Zion.  A  little  to  the 
south,  and  near  the  river,  were  what  seemed  to  be  the  re- 
mains of  an  embankment,  which  was  about  twenty-two 
hundred  feet  long,  nine  hundred  feet  broad  at  its  base, 
and  forty  feet  perpendicular  in  its  greatest  elevation. 
This,  doubtless,  was  in  part  the  ruins  of  the  quay  which 
the  king  built  to  prevent  the  overflowing  of  the  river, 
and  which  was  eighty  feet  thick  and  fifteen  miles  long, 
the  distance  from  the  north  to  the  south  wall  of  the  city. 
From  this  embankment  steps  descended  to  the  edge  of 
the  water,  and  at  the  bottom  of  each  flight  of  steps  Avere 
brass  gates,  which  were  opened  during  the  day  and 
closed  at  night.  On  the  bottom  of  the  river,  near  the 
spot  where  we  stood,  are  a  quantity  of  bricks,  that  are, 
no  doubt,  the  remains  of  the  beautiful  quays,  from  which 
extended  a  bridge  that  here  spanned  the  Euj)hrates,  and 
which  connected  the  two  parts  of  the  city.     The  bridge 


138  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

was  constructed  by  mucli  labor  and  at  a  prodigious  ex- 
pense. To  accomplish  this,  it  was  necessary  to  divert  the 
river  from  its  accustomed  channel.  To  effect  this,  a  reser- 
voir was  dug  on  the  western  bank,  thirty  feet  deep,  and 
one  hundred  'and  forty  miles  in  circumference,  into  which 
the  waters  of  the  Euphrates  were  conducted  through 
large  canals.  Stone  piers  were  then  built  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  river,  and  planks  of  wood  were  extended  from 
pier  to  jpier,  which  formed  a  pathway.  When  all  was 
finished,  the  waters  were  restored  to  their  ancient  chan- 
nel, but  the  great  lake  remained  full  for  the  use  of  the 
western  section  of  the  city.  Some  of  the  old  writers  re- 
fer to  a  tunnel,  constructed  of  brick,  which  was  twelve 
feet  high  from  the  springing  of  the  arch,  and  five  hun- 
dred feet  long,  and  at  either  end  of  which  was  a  gate  of 
brass.  Through  that  tunnel  the  queen  was  wont  to  pass 
from  her  palace  on  the  east  bank  to  the  one  which  stood 
on  the  west.  And  they  also  mention  an  obelisk  five  feet 
square  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high,  cut 
in  the  mountains  of  Armenia,  and  erected  here  to  com- 
memorate the  completion  of  the  tunnel  and  the  bridge. 
But  all  these  monuments  of  the  past  have  been  swept 
away,  and  not  a  vestige  remains  to  honor  the  king  or  im- 
mortalize the  builder. 

Our  presence  had  attracted  the  Arabs,  who  had  left 
their  miserable  huts  to  watch  our  movements,  to  gratif}' 
their  curiosity  in  looking  at  the  strangers,  and  to  obtain, 
if  possible,  a  backsheesh,  which  their  modesty  will  never 
allow  them  to  decline.  Yet  their  comino;  was  an  advan- 
tage  rather  than  an  annoyance.  From  cliildhood  they 
had  been  familiar  with  these  ancient  mounds,  and  knew 
every  spot  of  special  interest.  Taking  the  most  intelli- 
gent one  as  a  guide,  we  crossed  the  lower  slopes  of  the 
embankment,  and  were  soon  among  the  ruins  of  the  fa- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVER. 


139 


HAJsGING   GARDENS. 


mous  Hanging  Gardens.  These  gardens  covered  three 
and  a  half  acres,  and  were  the  work  of  Nebuchadnezzar, 
to  delight  his  queen,  Amytis,  a  native  of  Ecbatana,  in 
the  mountain  regions  of  Persia,  and  who,  weary  of  the 
monotonous  plains  of  Babylonia,  longed  for  the  mount- 
ain scenery  of  her  native  land.  To  realize  her  wishes, 
he  caused  to  be  built  a  structure  of  brick -work  four 
hundred  feet  high,  which,  when  finished,  resembled  a 
mountain  covered  with  trees  and  adorned  with  flowers. 
The  whole  consisted  of  a  series  of  terraces,  rising  in 
graceful  gradations  from  the  margin  of  the  river  to  the 
summit  of  the  artificial  mountain.     The  outer  wall  was 


140  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

twenty-two  feet  thick,  aud  a  thousand  feet  long  on  each 
of  its  four  sides.     Each  ten-ace  was  supported  by  arches, 
and  the  ascent  from  terrace  to  terrace  was  by  marble 
steps  ten  feet  wide.     On  the  top  of  the  arches  were  laid 
large  flat  stones,  sixteen  feet  long  and  four  feet  broad  ; 
over  these  were  layers  of  reeds,  covered  with  bitumen, 
upon  which  were  two  rows  of  bricks  cemented  together 
with  i^laster ;  on  the  plaster  were  placed  thick  sheets  of 
lead  to  prevent  the  moisture  from  injuring  the  founda- 
tions.     Upon   all  this    extensive   floorage   of  lead  was 
strewed   the  rich  mold  sufficiently   deep  to  allow  the 
plants  and  trees  to  take  root  therein.      To  furnish   a 
greater  depth  of  soil  for  the  roots  of  the  largest  trees, 
vast  hollow  piers  of  brick  were  constructed  at  agreeable 
points  and  filled  with  earth.     The  soil  of  the  whole  gar- 
den was  kept  moist  by  means  of  a  machine,  placed  on 
the  highest  terrace,  which  dreAv  up  the  water  from  the 
Euphrates,  aud  distributed  it  by  means  of  small  con- 
duits to  all   parts  of  each  successive  terrace.     In  the 
spaces    between    the    several    arches   were    magnificent 
apartments,    whose    walls    were    encased   with    glazed 
bricks,  colored  with  a  brilliant  blue,  red,  and  yellow,  and 
wherein  the  queen  and  her  maidens  were  wont  to  re- 
cline in  the  heat  of  the  day.     Around  the  walls  of  the 
highest  terrace  were  battlements,  and  at  the  angles  were 
lofty  towers  commanding  a  view  of  Babylon,  then  in  all 
its  magnificence. 

With  an  Aral)  for  a  guide,  we  wandered  over  the  im- 
mense ruins  of  this  stupendous  structure,  justly  consid- 
ered one  of  the  "  Seven  Wonders  of  the  World,"  whose 
massiveness  and  beauty  excited  the  admiration  of  all  be- 
holders, whose  memory  has  been  cherished  through  all 
the  centuries  of  subsequent  time.  As  it  was  the  joy  of 
the  queen,  and  the  pride  of  the  king,  its  immense  height 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  141 

and  vast  proportions  justified  the  bold  symbolic  lan- 
guage of  the  prophet :  "  Behold,  I  am  against  thee,  O  de- 
stroying mountain,  saith  the  Lord :  and  I  will  stretch 
out  mine  hand  upon  thee,  and  roll  thee  down  from  the 
rocks,  and  will  make  thee  a  burnt  mountain."'^'  This 
vast  ruin  is  over  two  thousand  feet  in  length  and 
breadth,  and  more  than  forty  feet  high.  It  consists  of 
walls  eight  feet  thick,  ornamented  with  niches,  supported 
by  pilasters  and  buttresses,  built  of  the  finest  brick,  still 
clean  and  sharp,  laid  in  cement  still  bright  and  tena- 
cious. Upon  nearly  every  brick  are  clearly  and  deeply 
stamped  the  name  and  titles  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  and,  as 
a  peculiarity,  the  inscribed  face  of  the  brick  is  always 
placed  downward,  as  if  the  better  to  preserve  the  name 
of  the  great  king.  High  upon  one  of  the  terraces  is  a 
solitary  tree,  called  by  the  natives  "Athelo,"  and  who 
maintain  that  it  flourished  in  ancient  Babylon.  Only 
one  side  of  its  trunk  remains,  yet  the  branches  at  the 
top  are  still  green,  and,  gently  waving  in  the  wind,  pro- 
duced a  melancholy  rustling  sound.  It  is  an  evergreen, 
and  of  a  species  not  common  in  this  section  of  the  East. 
Its  trunk  is  large ;  its  height  is  fifteen  feet ;  its  great  age 
is  beyond  question.  Standing  as  it  does  on  the  very 
summit  of  the  mound,  it  was  not  planted  there,  amidst  a 
heap  of  ruins,  by  any  subsequent  hand,  and  is,  therefore, 
esteemed  the  last  of  the  beautiful  trees  which  once 
adorned  the  Hancrino;  Gardens. 

But  our  Arab  guide  knew  of  a  greater  wonder  than 
that  solitary  tree.  His  excited  manner  indicated  an  ob- 
ject of  greater  interest.  Agile  as  a  gazelle,  he  leaped 
from  mound  to  mound,  and  bade  lis  follow  him.  In  a 
depression  four  feet  deep,  we  found  a  lion,  of  dark-gray 

*  Jeremiah  li.,  25. 


142 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


DANIEL  S   LIONb    DEN. 


granite,  ten  feet  long  and  as  many  high,  standing  over  a 
man  with  outstretched  arms.  The  discovery  was  won- 
derful. Our  party  felt  the  ex- 
citement of  the  moment.  Here, 
no  doubt,  was  the  lion's  den  into 
which  Daniel  was  thrown ;  and 
this  sculptured  lion,  with  a  man 
beneath  him  unharmed,  was  to 
commemorate  the  miraculous  de- 
liverance of  the  prophet,  who 
from  the  den  of  lions  replied  to  the  king:  "My  God  hath 
sent  his  angel,  and  hath  shut  the  lions'  mouths,  that  they 
have  not  hurt  me."* 

Ascending  the  highest  mound,  the  eye  swept  over  a 
scene  of  utter  desolation.  A  little  to  the  south  were 
ruins  of  even  greater  extent  than  any  we  had  yet  exam- 
ined. They  are  called  by  the  Arabs  Amrau  Ben  Ali,  as 
they  are  crowned  by  the  tomb  of  a  Moslem  saint,  known 
as  the  son  of  Ali ;  and  near  the  tomb  is  the  small  village 
of  Jumjuma,  which  means  Calvary — the  place  of  a  skull. 
This  great  mass,  the  remains  of  some  grand  palace,  is  over 
three  thousand  feet  in  length,  more  than  two  thousand 
feet  in  its  greatest  breadth,  sixty  feet  high  above  the 
level  of  the  plain,  and  resembles  in  form  a  quadrangle. 
Whether  this  is  the  ruin  of  a  royal  palace  which  stood 
near  the  Hanging  Gardens,  or  was  the  residence  of  some 
prince  of  the  blood,  is  now  unknown.  That  it  was  a 
vast  and  magnificent  structure,  is  evident  from  tlie  extent 
and  superior  character  of  the  remains.  It  may  have  been 
the  abode  of  Daniel  when  president  of  the  Imperial 
Council  under  Darius,  and  where  "  he  went  into  his  house; 
and,  his  windows  being  open  in  his  chamber  toward  Je- 


Dimiel  vi.,  22. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


143 


rusalem,  lie  kneeled  upon  his  knees  three  times  a  day,  and 
prayed,  and  gave  thanks  before  his  God,  as  he  did  afore- 
time."* For  it  is  a  curious  confirmation  of  this  suppo- 
sition, that  Layard  here  discovered  several  terra -cotta 
bowls,  covered  on  the  inner  surface  with  Hebrew  letters 
written  in  ink,  which  may  have  belonged  to  the  Jewish 
servants  of  Daniel's  household.    The  inscription  has  been 


THE   CHARM-BOWL. 


translated  by  Mr.  Ellis,  of  the  British  Museum,  who  con- 
firms the  opinion  that  the  writers  were  Jews.  As  the 
Hebrew  captives  were  corrupted  to  believe  in  the  divi- 
nation practiced  by  the  Chaldeans,  inscriptions  were  writ- 


*  Daniel  vi.,  10. 


144  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

ten  ill  ink  on  the  inner  surfoce  of  bowls;  the  writing  wa« 
then  dissolved  in  water,  to  be  drank  as  a  cure  against  dis- 
ease, or  as  a  precaution  against  the  arts  of  witchcraft  and 
mao-ic.  But  as  the  Avritincr  on  these  bowls  remains  fresh 
and  distinct  to  this  day,  it  is  evident  that  they  had  been 
prepared  and  laid  aside  against  the  coming  of  the  evil 
day.  The  inscription  on  one  of  the  bowls,  wdiich  I  sub- 
sequently examined  in  the  British  Museum,  purports  to 
be  a  letter  of  dismissal  or  of  divorce  to  Satan  and  oth- 
er evil  spirits.  It  runs  thus:  "This  is  a  bill  of  divorce 
to  the  Devil,  to  Satan,  to  Nerig,  to  Zachiah,  and  to  Abi- 
tur  of  the  mountain,  and  to  the  night- monsters,  com- 
manding them  to  cease  from  Beheran  in  Batnaiun,  and 
from  the  country  of  the  North,  and  from  all  who  are  tor- 
mented by  them  therein.  Behold,  I  make  the  counsels 
of  these  devils  of  no  effect,  and  annul  the  power  of  the 
ruler  of  the  night-monsters.  I  conjure  you  all,  monsters, 
both  male  and  female,  to  go  forth;  I  conjure  you  by  the 
sceptre  of  the  powerful  One,  who  has  power  over  the 
devils,  and  over  the  night-monsters,  to  quit  these  habita- 
tions. Behold,  I  now  make  you  cease  from  troubling 
them,  and  make  the  influence  of  your  presence  cease  in 
Beheran  of  Batnaiun,  and  in  their  fields.  In  the  same 
manner  as  the  devils  write  bills  of  divorce  and  give  them 
to  their  wives,  and  return  not  unto  them  again,  receive 
ye  your  bill  of  divorce,  and  take  this  written  authority, 
and  go  forth,  leave  quickly,  flee,  and  depart  from  Behe- 
ran in  Batnaiun,  in  the  name  of  the  living,  by  the  seal  of 
the  powerful  One,  and  by  the  signet  of  authority.  Then 
will  there  flow  rivers  of  water  in  that  land,  and  there 
the  parched  ground  will  be  watered.  Amen.  Amen. 
Amen.     Selah." 

As  intimated  in  this  curious  inscription,  the  ancient 
Jews  believed  that  evil  spirits  married,  that  they  quar- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  145 

reled  with  tlieir  wives,  and  that  they  divorced  them. 
And  they  also  believed  iu  the  existence  of  night-mon- 
sters, who  appeared  in  the  form  of  a  beautiful  female, 
who  surrounded  human  habitations,  where  they  lay  in 
wait  for  children  in  the  darkness  of  the  night. 

The  day  was  fast  declining,  and  we  had  five  miles  yet 
to  ride  to  a  place  of  safety  for  the  night.  We  tried  in 
vain  to  hire  a  boat  to  convey  us  down  the  Euphrates, 
to  the  town  of  Hillah ;  but  the  Arabs  in  charge  of  our 
horses  feared  that  the  sum  paid  for  the  boat  would  be 
deducted  from  the  amount  due  them,  and  to  all  our  in- 
quiries we  were  answered,  "  No  boat  can  get ;"  or, "  Boat 
have  bad  leak ;"  or,  "  River  go  too  fast  for  little  boat." 
So,  resigning  ourselves  to  the  fate  of  an  Arab  saddle,  we 
turned  to  the  south-east,  keeping  our  eye  steadily  on  an 
immense  palm-grove  in  that  direction.  We  were  soon 
on  the  caravan  road,  which  runs  from  Bagdad  to  Hillah, 
and  which  crosses  old  canals  and  low  ridges,  once  the  in- 
closure  of  stately  buildings.  Trains  of  donkeys,  caravans 
of  camels,  soldiers  on  horseback,  men  and  women  on  foot, 
were  hastenins:  to  Hillah  to  find  a  safe  refuo^e  for  the 
night.  Within  an  hour  we  reached  the  northern  edge 
of  the  great  date  palm-groves,  inclosed  within  low  mud- 
walls,  and  which  cover  many  acres  of  land  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  Euphrates.  As  the  crow  flies,  the  distance 
yet  to  be  made  could  not  have  been  more  than  two  miles; 
but  we  were  compelled  to  follow  the  road,  which  turned 
to  every  point  of  the  compass,  winding  around  the  mud- 
walls  that  inclosed  a  small  plantation  of  palms  here,  and 
a  larger  one  there,  so  that  hour  after  hour  passed  ere  we 
reached  the  bridge  of  boats  over  the  Euphrates.  Yet 
the  weary  hours  were  somewhat  relieved  by  the  sight 
and  shade  of  the  beautiful  palm,  chosen  emblem  of  peace 
and  plenty.     As  we  approached  the  town,  the  school- 

10 


14G  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

boys  were  engaged  in  mimic  warfiire,  armed  with  bam- 
boo poles,  with  which  they  fenced  in  a  furious  manner. 
Our  coming  was  the  signal  for  a  truce,  and  the  combat- 
ants surveyed  our  party  with  curious  delight.  Many 
of  them  had  never  before  seen  an  American  lady,  and  she 
was  to  them  the  greatest  of  curiosities.  Passing  through 
a  narrow  gloomy  street,  we  soon  reached  the  bridge  of 
boats,  which  was  thronged  with  people,  horses,  asses,  and 
camels,  going  and  coming,  and  crowding  against  each 
other  with  such  force  as  to  threaten  some  with  a  bath, 
if  not  a  grave,  in  the  Euphrates.  Our  Bagdad  horses 
behaved  badly  in  the  confusion,  and  had  to  be  led  by 
our  attendants.  Crowds  of  natives  lined  the  op23osite 
bank  of  the  river,  dressed  in  robes  of  many  colors,  and 
gathered  around  us  in  wild  excitement,  wondering  at  our 
advent  in  their  midst,  and  clamoring  to  know  where  we 
were  going,  and  what  the  object  of  our  coming.  Find- 
ing it  impossible  to  pass,  we  ordered  Ashur  to  clear  the 
way,  who,  with  drawn  sword  and  prancing  steed,  opened 
a  path  for  us  to  escape,  without  harm  to  ourselves  or 
those  who  pressed  against  us.  Passing  slowly  through 
the  thronged  bazaars,  and  turning  southward,  we  stop- 
ped at  the  pasha's  khan,  and  requested  entertainment 
during  our  stay  in  Hillah.  The  proprietor  was  a  tall, 
well-dressed  Arab,  who  received  us  with  Oriental  saluta- 
tions. His  khan  is  large  and  clean  for  an  Arab  abode. 
It  was  a  two-storied  brick  structure,  with  open  alcoves 
below,  fronting  a  spacious  court,  and  arched  rooms  above, 
opening  on  a  broad  wooden  balcony.  Our  room  was 
twelve  by  twenty,  and  ten  feet  high,  ornamented  with 
two  arches,  black  with  the  smoke  of  former  pilgrims,  ven- 
tilated by  a  hole  in  the  rear  wall,  and  the  only  means  by 
which  daylight  could  enter  the  apartment.  The  door 
was  huge,  roughly  made,  hung  on  wooden  hinges,  and  so 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  147 

broken  at  the  bottom  as  to  allow  the  ni2;lit-monsters  of 
Old  Babylon  to  enter  and  take  us  unawares.  On  the 
broken  brick  floor  we  spread  our  mats  and  made  our 
beds.  Our  keen  appetites  were  soon  satisfied  with  a 
dinner  of  boiled  chicken,  fresh  bread,  eggs  and  milk,  with 
plenty  of  dates,  oranges,  and  pomegranates  bought  in  the 
well-supplied  bazaars.  The  sun  had  gone  down,  the  moon 
and  stars  shone  brightly  in  a  clear  Eastern  sky ;  the  air 
was  chilly,  and  the  voice  of  nature  called  us  to  repose. 
But  sleep  came  not.  Jackals  barked,  cats  crept  beneath 
the  door,  and  leaped  through  the  hole  in  the  wall ;  rats 
fed  on  our  eggs ;  fleas  assailed  us ;  a  drunken  Moslem 
pilgrim  in  an  adjoining  room  chanted  his  Koran  in  hum- 
drum tones  half  the  night ;  and  from  a  near  minaret  an 
old  muezzin  called  the  faithful  to  prayers,  chanting  that 
"  prayer  is  better  than  sleej)." 

Hillah  is  a  Moslem  town  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants, 
who  are  Arabs,  Jews,  and  Christians.  The  Euphrates 
flows  through  the  village,  and  is  here  something  less  than 
five  hundred  feet  wide,  about  fifteen  feet  deep,  and  has  a 
current  of  two  and  a  half  knots  an  hour  when  the  water 
is  low,  and  flows  a  knot  faster  when  the  water  is  high. 
The  two  parts  of  the  town  are  connected  by  a  bridge  of 
boats  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long.  Nine-tenths  of 
the  population  live  on  the  western  side.  The  old  mud- 
wall,  which  incloses  the  place  on  three  sides,  is  scarcely 
sufficient  to  resist  an  assault  by  Bedouins,  armed  with 
swords  and  lances.  The  brick  towers  are  more  orna- 
mental than  useful.  The  three  gates  are  more  noticeable 
for  their  dimensions  than  for  their  strength.  According 
to  an  Eastern  custom,  they  are  named  after  the  princi- 
pal place  to  which  they  lead.  The  one  on  the  north  is 
called  Hussein;  the  one  in  the  centre,  Tahmasia;  and 
the  one  on  the  south,  Iman  Ali.     Only  one  of  the  two 


148  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

mosques  is  within  tlie  inclosnre.  The  one  which  stands 
beyond  the  walls  is  the  larger.  It  is  called  Mesjid-el- 
Shems,  and  is  said  to  contain  the  tomb  of  Joshua  !  The 
dome  is  supported  by  Gothic  arches,  which  rest  on  brick 
pillars  three  feet  in  diameter.  The  dome  is  like  a  pine- 
apple in  form  and  appearance.  On  the  top  of  a  pole, 
which  is  higher  than  the  dome,  is  a  liberty-cap  of  mud, 
and  is  said  to  turn  with  the  sun,  in  honor  of  Joshua. 
Within  the  town,  and  far  beyond  the  walls,  are  exten- 
sive gardens  and  palm-groves.  The  bazaars  are  on  the 
main  street  which  leads  to  the  bridge,  and  were  well 
supplied  with  dates,  rice,  Manchester  goods,  and  Ameri- 
can petroleum. 

Hillah  is  said  to  have  been  built  in  the  year  1102  of 
our  era,  by  Bene  Mozeid,  and  the  materials  for  its  build- 
ing were  taken  from  the  ruins  of  Babylon.  The  present 
governor  is  subject  to  the  Pasha  of  Bagdad,  and  has  a 
jurisdiction  from  the  canal  Husseinia,  on  the  north,  to 
the  village  of  Hasca,  on  the  south.  After  wandering 
through  the  bazaars,  we  called  upon  his  Excellency,  who 
subsequently  sent  us  an  invitation  to  dinner,  but  which 
pleasure  we  were  compelled  to  forego  for  lack  of  time. 
While  we  chatted  with  the  gentlemen  of  the  court,  our 
"elect  lady"  was  escorted  into  the  harem,  and  was  there 
received  with  much  attention  by  the  several  wives  of 
Shibli  Pasha.  The  youngest  and  most  beautiful  of  the 
wives  was  the  mother  of  a  son  only  a  few  days  old.  All 
the  ladies  of  the  harem  were  richly  attired,  and  shone  re- 
splendent in  their  costly  gems.  Coffee,  preserves,  and 
the  fragrant  narguileh  were  passed  to  the  visitor;  and 
she  added  to  their  pleasure  by  allowing  the  ladies  to  ex- 
amine minutely  all  parts  of  her  costume. 

In  the  pasha's  yard  was  a  young  lion  chained,  but  so 
tame  that  a  child  played  with  it.     This  was  the  realiza- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  149 

tion  of  the  promised  millennium :  "The  wolf  also  shall 
dwell  with  the  lamb,  and  the  leopard  shall  lie  down 
with  the  kid ;  and  the  calf  and  the  young  lion  and  the 
fatlinoj  toofether;  and  a  little  child  shall  lead  them."* 
Lions  are  common  in  Hillah,  and  have  been  allowed  to 
roam  through  the  streets  unmolested.  One  was  a  daily 
customer  to  the  stalls  of  the  butchers,  who,  on  his  ap- 
proach, made  a  hasty  retreat,  leaving  him  in  undisputed 
possession.  Having  satisfied  his  hunger,  the  lion  would 
depart  to  some  pleasant  spot,  stretch  himself  in  the  sun, 
and  allow  the  Arab  boys  to  take  such  liberties  with  him 
as  their  mischief  mis^ht  suo-sfest. 

The  attention  w^e  had  received  from  the  pasha  was 
soon  noised  abroad,  and  our  presence  in  the  streets  ex- 
cited the  populace.  Crowds  followed  us  wherever  we 
went,  wondering  at  the  strangers  wdio  had  come  so  far. 
To  escape  the  annoyance,  we  took  a  boat  and  glided  gen- 
tly down  the  classic  Euphrates.  On  leaving  the  boat, 
we  wandered  along  the  embowered  shores.  It  was  the 
evening  hour.  Memories  of  the  mighty  past  came  troop- 
ing through  the  mind.  From  the  one  hundred  and  thir- 
ty-seventh Psalm  we  read  those  melancholy  lines:  "By 
the  rivers  of  Babylon,  there  we  sat  down,  yea,  we  wept, 
when  w^e  remembered  Zion.  We  hanged  our  harps  upon 
the  willows  in  the  midst  thereof  For  there  they  that 
carried  us  away  captive  required  of  us  a  song  ;  and  they 
that  w^asted  us  required  of  us  mirth,  saying.  Sing  us  one 
of  the  songs  of  Zion.  How  shall  we  sing  the  Lord's 
song  in  a  strange  land  ?  If  I  forget  thee,  O  Jerusalem, 
let  my  right  hand  forget  her  cunning.  If  I  do  not  re- 
member thee,  let  my  tongue  cleave  to  the  roof  of  my 
mouth  ;  if  I  prefer  not  Jerusalem  above  my  chief  joy." 

*  Isaiah  xi.,  6. 


150  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

The  descendants  of  some  of  these  captives  reside  in  Hil- 
lah.  They  have  a  synagogue,  and  strictly  observe  their 
Sabbath.  They  have  preserved  their  pedigrees,  and 
trace  .their  lineage  to  the  princes  and  prophets  of  Ju- 
dah.  Many  of  them  came  to  our  khan,  and  in  appear- 
ance were  the  finest-looking  men  in  Hillah.  They  are 
merchants  and  bankers,  who  control  the  principal  trade 
and  money  transactions  of  the  place.  They  believe  that 
the  ashes  of  their  prophet  Ezekiel  are  entombed  in  Kifil, 
twelve  miles  to  the  south-west  over  the  desert.  Hither 
the  Hebrew  pilgrims  annually  go  in  thousands,  from  Hil- 
lah and  Bagdad  and  other  Chaldean  cities ;  and  thither 


TOMB   OP   EZEKIEL. 


they  have  gone  from  a  very  early  period.  So  large  is 
their  assembly  to  this  shrine,  that  their  temporary  abodes 
cover  twenty  miles  of  open  ground.  The  mausoleum  of 
the  prophet  is  worthy  the  greatness  of  his  name.  The 
fagade  of  the  imposing  structure  consists  of  sixty  towers ; 
the  space  between  every  other  tower  is  a  place  of  prayer. 
Within  a  spacious  court  is  a  model  of  the  Ark  of  the 
Covenant,  and  behind  the  ark  is  the  sepulchre  of  Ezeki- 
el, the  son  of  Buzi.  Surmounting  the  edifice  is  a  noble 
dome,  seen  from  afar  to  guide  the  pilgrim  to  the  holy 
shrine.  According  to  the  Rabbi  Benjamin  of  Tudela, 
the  mausoleum  was  erected  by  Jeconiah,  king  of  Judah, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  151 

and  thirty-five  tliousand  Jews,  who  were  released  from 
captivity  by  Evil-merodach,  kiug  of  Babylon;  and,  to 
commemorate  their  appreciation  of  the  character  and  serv- 
ices of  the  eminent  prophet,  the  names  of  the  founders 
of  the  monument  were  inscribed  on  the  walls  of  the  sep- 
ulchre. At  the  head  of  the  long  list  was  the  name  of 
the  king,  Jeconiah,  and  at  the  foot  was  the  name  of  Eze- 
kiel.  On  the  Day  of  Atonement,  the  lesson  is  read  from 
a  very  large  manuscript  Pentateuch  transcribed  by  the 
prophet  himself  A  lamp  burns  night  and  day  over  the 
tomb  of  the  holy  seer.  In  an  adjoining  house  is  a  large 
collection  of  books,  some  of  them  as  old  as  the  second, 
some  coeval  with  the  first.  Temple.  And  it  is  customary, 
even  at  the  present  day,  for  the  Jews  w^ho  die  childless 
to  bequeath  their  books  and  manuscripts  to  this  library. 
Of  the  ten  thousand  inhabitants  of  Kifil,  not  a  few  of 
them  are  Jews,  the  descendants  of  the  captives  who  built 
the  sepulchre  of  the  prophet,  and  who  now  cling  to  it 
with  melancholy  afl:ection.  Whether  his  sacred  dust  is 
therein  enshrined  or  not,  his  residence  in  Babylon  with 
the  other  captives  is  a  fact  recorded  by  himself,  in  these 
modest  words:  "In  the  fifth  day  of  the  month,  which 
was  the  fifth  year  of  King  Jehoiachin's  captivity,  the 
word  of  the  Lord  came  expressly  unto  Ezekiel  the  priest, 
the  son  of  Buzi,  in  the  land  of  the  Chaldeans  by  the 
river  Chebar ;  and  the  hand  of  the  Lord  was  there  upon 
him."* 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning,  with  a  Turkish 
soldier  for  guide  and  escort,  furnished  by  the  governor 
of  Hillah,  we  started  for  Birs  Nimroud,  the  Tower  of 
Babel.  The  site  of  this  renowned  tow^er  is  six  miles  to 
the  south-west  from  Hillah,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Eu- 

*  Ezekiel  i.,  3,  3. 


152  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

phrates,  and  six  miles  from  the  river.  Passing  out  of  the 
Iman  Ali  gate,  where  soldiers  were  receiving  th-^ir  ra- 
tions for  the  day,  we  crossed  the  ditch  which  surrounds 
the  walls  of  the  city,  and  rode  for  half  an  hour  through 
pahn-groves  and  beside  fields  of  rice  and  corn.  We  were 
now  on  the  plain  of  Shinar,  vast  and  barren,  dotted  with 
patches  of  jungle,  and  white  with  a  nitrous  soil.  Our 
guide  seemed  nervous,  and  we  were  ordered  to  keep  close 
together.  His  practiced  eye  discerned  dangers  of  which 
we  were  ignorant.  It  was  no  less  bold  than  hazardous 
for  us  to  attempt  the  tour,  especially  with  a  lady,  whose 
charms  might  tempt  the  chieftains  of  the  desert,  or  who 
might  at  least  demand  a  large  ransom  for  her  safe  return. 
We  could  observe  horsemen  in  the  distance,  and  smoke 
ascending  from  behind  a  mound,  where  the  lawless  Bed- 
ouins of  the  desert  had  made  their  camp.  For  some 
reason,  which  was  never  explained  to  us,  our  guide  made 
a  most  fatiguing  detour  to  the  eastward.  We  had  been 
riding  along  the  direct  road  to  the  tower,  w^ith  every 
prospect  of  reaching  it  in  a  little  more  than  an  hour,  but 
a  remark  from  an  old  man,  whom  v/e  chanced  to  pass  on 
the  road,  induced  the  guide  to  turn  eastward  through  a 
section  of  the  desert  soft  and  rough  like  a  newly  plowed 
field.  His  excuse  was  that  there  were  marshes  to  the 
west  of  us ;  but  something  more  than  marshes  were  the 
motive  for  the  detour,  as,  on  our  return  to  Hillah,  he  fol- 
lowed the  path  which  he  now  declined  to  pursue.  But 
our  anxiety  was  allayed,  and  our  fears  forgotten,  by  the 
prospect  before  us.  Like  the  api^roach  to  the  pyramids 
of  Egypt,  the  approach  to  the  Tower  of  Babel  is  intense- 
ly exciting.  Rising  suddenly  out  of  the  desert  plain,  a 
riven,  fragmentary,  blasted  pile,  and  standing  out  against 
the  sky,  without  another  prominent  object  near  to  re- 
lieve the  view,  its  solitary  appearance  was  strangely  ira- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  153 

pressive.  Nor  did  distance  lend  enchantment  to  the  view. 
The  nearer  the  approach,  the  more  impressive  the  sight. 
Such  was  the  enchanting  power  of  the  vision,  that  the 
eye  was  transfixed,  and  the  spell  of  history  was  upon 
the  soul.  Before  us  was  the  oldest  historic  monument 
known  to  man.  Its  form  assumed  a  new  outline  with 
each  curve  in  our  devious  path.  Now  it  resembled  a  fall- 
en pyramid  with  a  portion  of  a  tower  remaining  on  the 
summit ;  now  it  appeared  like  a  truncated  cone,  abrupt- 
ly broken  by  some  Titan's  power  ;   anon,  it  loomed  uj)  a 


TOWER   OP   BABEL. 


vast  mass  of  shapeless  ruins,  as  when,  by  some  mighty 
convulsion  of  nature,  temples  are  thrown  on  temples,  and 
towers  are  piled  on  towers.  We  had  seen  nothing  like 
it  on  all  the  plains  of  Babylon. 

In  two  hours  we  had  reached  its  base,  and  immediate- 
ly ascended  to  its  summit.  Its  sides  are  rent,  and  its 
crest  is  broken.  Two  thousand  three  hundred  feet  in 
circumference,  the  great  mound  is  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  hio;h.*     Its  summit  is  covered  with  immense  fras;. 

*  In  the  "  Remains  of  Lost  Empires,"  and  in  the  "  Assyrian  Discoveries," 
it  is  given  as  150  feet.    But  Rich,  Layard,  and  Buckingham  make  it  250  feet. 


154 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


ments  of  brick-work,  and  solid,  vitrified  masses  of  brick 
and  mortar.  Some  of  these  masses  resemble  hiinje  black 
rocks,  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  thrown  together  in  the 
utmost  confusion  ;  but,  upon  a  closer  inspection,  they  ap- 
peared to  be,  what  they  really  are,  portions  of  great  walls, 
in  which  the  brick  and  mortar  are  still  visible,  but  bear- 
ing the  marks  of  the  action  of  the  fiercest  fire,  as  if  blown 
up  by  gunj^owder,  or  scathed  with  the  lightning  of  the 
heavens.  On  the  western  side  of  the  summit  is  a  sol- 
id pile  of  brick,  fifty  feet  high  by  twenty -eight  feet  in 
breadth,  diminishing  in  thickness  to  the  top,  which  is 


BRICK   FROM   THE   TOWER   OF   BABEL. 


broken  and  irregular,  and  rent  by  a  large  fissure  run- 
ning through  a  third  of  its  height.  Extending  through  it 
from  side  to  side  are  holes  nine  inclies  square,  designed, 
no  doubt,  for  ventilation.  It  is  comjoosed  of  the  finest 
burned  bricks,  with  inscriptions  on  them.  The  admira- 
ble cement  by  which  the  layers  are  held  together  is  al- 
most invisible,  yet  so  tenacious  that  it  is  nearly  impossi- 
ble to  separate  one  brick  from  another.  On  the  north- 
east side  is  a  wall  of  small  bricks  of  the  finest  quality, 
and  is  as  firm  to-day  as  when  laid  by  the  hand  of  the 
master-builder  thousands  of  years  ago.    The  weather  has 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  155 

channeled  deep  ravines  in  the  sides  of  the  monnd,  reveal- 
ing here  and  there  a  mass  of  yellow  bricks  laid  in  white 
mortar,  and  which  are  evidently  sun-dried,  and  not  kiln- 
burned.  They  are  not  less  than  twelve  inches  square, 
and  four  inches  thick.  They  all  bear  the  name  and  titles 
of  King  Nebuchadnezzar.  The  translation  of  the  inscrip- 
tion on  the  one  I  brought  away,  to  be  placed  in  my  cab- 
inet of  curiosities,  is  as  follows:  "Nebuchadnezzar,  King 
of  Babylon  ;  preserver  of  Bit-Saggal  and  Bit-Sidda  ;  eld- 
est sou  of  Nabopolassar,  King  of  Babylon." 

The  most  eminent  antiquarians  in  Babylonian  re- 
searches regard  this  ruin  as  the  remains  of  the  Tower 
of  Babel.  For  the  history  and  description  of  that  cele- 
brated tower  we  are  indebted  to  Moses,  to  Herodotus, 
to  Diodorus,  to  Strabo,  to  Bliny  and  Quintus  Curtius, 
whose  account  has  been  confirmed,  in  later  times,  by 
Rabbi  Benjamin  of  Tudela,  and  b}'  Bich,  Buckingham, 
and  Layard,  the  most  distinguished  explorers  of  our  own 
day.  The  statement  by  Moses  is  brief  and  definite: 
"And  it  came  to  pass,  as  they  journeyed  from  the  east, 
that  they  found  a  plain  in  the  land  of  Shinar ;  and  they 
dwelt  there.  And  they  said  one  to  another.  Go  to,  let 
us  make  brick,  and  burn  them  thoroughly.  And  they 
had  brick  for  stone,  and  slime  had  they  for  mortar. 
And  they  said,  Go  to,  let  us  build  us  a  city,  and  a  tower, 
whose  top  may  reach  unto  heaven ;  and  let  us  make  us 
a  name,  lest  we  be  scattered  abroad  upon  the  face  of 
the  whole  earth."*  These  additional  facts  are  elsewhere 
given  by  the  inspired  historian :  "  Nimrod  was  a  mighty 
hunter  before  the  Lord.  And  the  beo-innino;  of  his  kin^r- 
dom  was  Babel."  "  So  the  Lord  scattered  them  abroad 
from  thence  upon  the  face  of  all  the  earth:  and  they  left 

*  Genesis  xi.,  3-4. 


156  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

off  to  build  the  city.     Therefore  is  the  name  of  it  called 
Babel." 

These  brief  but  comprehensive  allusions  seem  well 
sustained  by  a  number  of  very  important  facts.  It  is  an 
opinion  now  generally  received  that  the  ^\fxm  of  Shinar 
is  all  that  section  of  country  between  the  Tigris  and  the 
Euphrates  extending  southward  to  the  confluence  of 
those  two  rivers.  It  is  also  curious  to  observe  that, 
while  there  are  no  stone-quarries  in  this  section  of  the 
peninsula,  yet  the  soil  around  Babylon  is  of  a  fine  clay 
mixed  with  sand,  and,  when  dried  in  the  sun,  becomes 
hard  and  solid,  and  forms  the  finest  material  for  beautiful 
bricks,  which,  when  exposed  to  the  siin  for  half  an  hour, 
become  hard  as  stone.  But,  whether  baked  in  the  sun 
or  burned  in  a  kiln,  the  bricks  which  compose  the  tower 
are  exceedingly  hard,  and  illustrate  the  projDosition  of 
the  builders — "Let  us  make  brick,  and  burn  them  thor- 
ouglilyy  And  it  is  no  less  interesting  to  observe  that, 
while  they  had  "brick  for  stone,"  so  they  also  had  "  slime 
for  mortar,"  which  was  bitumen  collected  from  the  im- 
mediate neighborhood,  that  furnished  them  an  excellent 
cement,  and  so  tenacious  that  it  requires  a  greater  force 
to  separate  two  bricks  thus  cemented  than  to  break  the 
brick  itself  Nor  should  it  escape  our  attention  that 
"Nimrod"  and  "Babel"  are  terms  which  have  always 
been,  and  are  to-day,  as  familiar  to  the  natives  .of  this 
great  peninsula  as  household  words.  "  Nimrod,  the 
mighty  hunter  before  the  Lord,"  is  a  great  personage 
with  them,  and  to  him  they  ascribe  whatever  is  wonder- 
ful and  mighty.  They  apply  the  term  "  Babel  "  to  any 
remarkable  mound  of  ruins,  as  significant  of  historic 
greatness.  It  is  now  generally  conceded  that  Nimrod 
and  his  contemporaries  commenced  to  build  this  tower, 
confirming  the  sacred  text:  "And  the  beginning  of  his 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  157 

kingdom  was  Babel ;"  and  historians  and  explorers  also 
agree, "  that  they  left  off  to  build  the  city." 

With  these  historic  facts  apj^arently  so  clearly  con- 
firmed, it  was  with  no  ordinary  interest  that  I  sat  down 
amidst  the  ruins  on  the  summit  of  this  mound,  and  read 
the  inspired  words  of  Moses.  What  memories  they  re- 
called !  The  wanderings  of  the  descendants  of  Noah ; 
the  ambition  and  kingshij^  of  Nimrod  ;  the  high  resolve 
to  build  a  tower  Avhich  no  flood  could  submerge;  the 
displeasure  of  the  Lord ;  the  confusion  of  tongues ;  the 
dispersion  of  the  people ;  the  lapse  of  the  ages  which 
followed ;  the  completion  of  the  tower  by  Nebuchadnez- 
zar ;  its  vast  proportions  and  unrivaled  magnificence ;  its 
destruction  by  Xerxes ;  the  desire  of  Alexander  to  re- 
store it  to  its  former  glory ;  its  subsequent  desolation 
for  two  thousand  years,  a  lair  for  the  lion  and  a  den  for 
the  leopard;  and  its  present  imposing  aspect,  seen  by 
the  traveler  of  to-day,  as  seen  by  Alexander  and  Xerxes 
three  hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era. 

And  whoever  was  its  builder,  at  whatever  time  it  was 
constructed,  and  for  whatever  purpose  it  was  reared,  two 
facts  are  significant :  There  is  no  other  such  ruin  in  the 
land  of  Shinar;  and,  if  this  is  not  the  Tower  of  Babel, 
it  is  a  ruin  without  a  name!  At  its  base,  along  its  sides, 
on  its  summit,  are  the  indications  of  an  immense  struct- 
ure. On  the  north  and  west,  a  part  of  a  quadrangular 
inclosure  can  be  readily  traced.  At  its  base,  the  first 
step  of  the  ascent  can  be  distinctly  observed.  At  the 
north-east  angle,  the  second  stage  of  the  great  structure 
is  apparent ;  above  it  is  the  third,  which  recedes  within 
the  second ;  and  on  the  third  is  the  fourth,  a  solid  wall, 
fifty  feet  high,  twenty-eight  feet  broad,  and  fifteen  feet 
thick,  pierced  longitudinally  and  transversely  with  small 
channels  for  the  free  circulation  of  air,  and  being  less  in 


158  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

dimensions  at  the  top  than  at  its  base.     Upon  this  were 
other  sections,  whose  total  height  was  six  hnnclred  feet. 

How  grand  must  have  been  that  tower,  when  seen  in 
the  vastness  of  its  proportions  and  the  fullness  of  its  glo- 
ry. Commenced  by  Nimrod,  continued  by  Semiramis, 
completed  by  Nebuchadnezzar — it  was  at  once  a  sanctu- 
ary, a  mausoleum,  and  an  observatory.  It  was  inclosed 
by  a  wall  four  thousand  feet  in  circumference,  a  fragment 
of  which  remains.  The  base  of  the  tower  was  a  square, 
five  hundred  feet  on  each  side,  or  two  thousand  feet  in 
all.  Its  form  was  that  of  a  pyramid,  composed  of  eight 
separate  stories,  rising  in  symmetrical  23roportions,  and 
receding  within  each  other  to  the  enormous  height  of 
five  hundred  feet,  and  crowned  with  a  statue  of  Belus, 
forty  feet  high,  and  placed  in  an  upright  2:)osture.  The ' 
ascent  was  on  the  exterior,  and  consisted  of  broad  flights 
of  steps,  extending  from  terrace  to  terrace.  Midway  the 
ascent  was  a  resting-place,  furnished  with  easy-chairs  for 
the  repose  of  those  "who  made  the  ascent.  The  upper- 
most story  was  the  sanctuary,  beautifully  adorned,  and 
in  it  was  a  golden  table. 

Near  the  tower,  and  within  the  sacred  inclosure,  was  a 
smaller  structure,  wherein  was  a  golden  statue  of  Belus 
in  a  sitting  posture,  around  which  were  large  tables  and 
chairs  of  gold.  Without  the  temple  was  a  golden  altar 
whereon  were  offered  sucklings,  while  near  it  was  a 
larger  altar  for  the  sacrifice  of  full-grown  animals;  and 
adjoining  this  temple  were  the  apartments  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  i^riests  and  their  attendants.  The  site 
of  this  temj^le  was  probably  the  mound,  three  hundred 
feet  to  the  west,  fifty-five  feet  high,  and  fourteen  hundred 
feet  wide,  now  crowned  with  the  tomb  of  Makam  Ibrahim 
Khalil,  and  said  to  have  been  the  spot  where  the  three 
Hebrew  worthies  were  thrown  into  the  fiery  furnace. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  159 

What  memories  cluster  around  this  ruin  !  Of  its  iden- 
tity with  the  Tower  of  Babel  there  is  scarcely  ground 
for  a  reasonable  doubt.  The  present  dimensions  and 
structural  appearance  of  the  mound  so  nearly  cori-espond 
with  the  descriptions  of  the  tower  by  Herodotus,  Strabo, 
and  Pliny,  as  to  justify  this  opinion.  Its  location  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Euphrates  is  not  at  variance  with  the 
positive  statement  to  the  contrary  of  any  of  the  ancient 
writers.  The  Arabs  call  it  "El  Birs,"  and  "Birs  Nim- 
roud ;"  the  former  by  way  of  brevity,  and  the  latter  in 
honor  of  the  "mighty  hunter  before  the  Lord."  "Birs" 
may  be  a  corruption  of  JBerus,  and  Berus  of  Belus,  which 
would  not  be  considered  remarkable  changes  in  any  of 
the  Semitic  lano;ua2;es. 

If  the  original  purpose  of  the  tower  was  to  be  a  place 
of  refuge  and  safety  in  case  another  flood  came  upon  the 
earth,  it  subsequently  served  the  threefold  purpose  of 
mausoleum,  where  kings  were  enshrined;  of  temple,  where 
Belus  was  worshiped;  and  of  observatory,  where  the  Chal- 
dean astronomers  observed  the  risins:  and  the  settino-  of 
the  stars.  In  two  of  these  objects  it  corresponds  w^ith 
the  pyramids  of  Egypt,  where  royalty  was  entombed,  and 
astronomical  observations  were  made.  As  the  temple  of 
the  god  Belus,  it  was  the  place  where  were  deposited 
the  "  gold  and  silver  vessels  which  Nebuchadnezzar  had 
taken  out  of  the  temple  which  w^as  in  Jerusalem.""'  On 
its  summit  were  probably  made,  at  least  in  part,  those 
astronomical  records,  dating  back  nineteen  hundred  years 
before  our  era,  and  which  Calisthenes  found  in  Babylon 
when  Alexander  the  Great  captured  the  city,  and  which 
Calisthenes  transcribed,  and  sent  a  copy  thereof  to  Aris- 
totle.    And  the  Jews  have  a  tradition  that  here  was 

*  Daniel  v.,  2. 


160  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

imprisoned  their  king,  Zedekiah,  of  whom  it  is  written : 
''And  they  slew  the  sons  of  Zedekiah  before  his  eyes, 
and  put  out  the  eyes  of  Zedekiah,  and  bound  him  with 
fetters  of  brass,  and  carried  him  to  Babylon."*  And, 
also,  that  here  Nebuchadnezzar  was  confined  within  the 
si3acious  grounds  of  the  temple  when  bereft  of  his  reason, 
and  when  he  "  did  eat  grass  as  oxen,  and  his  body  was 
wet  with  the  dew  of  heaven,  till  his  haii-s  were  grown 
like  eagles'  feathers,  and  his  nails  like  birds'  claws."f 

Some  are  disposed  to  condemn  the  description  of  this 
renowned  tower  by  Herodotus  and  others,  as  extrava- 
gant, but  a  few  comi3arisons  with  well-known  structures 
will  sufiice  to  show  their  probable  accuracy.  The  base 
of  the  tower  was  2000  feet  in  circumference,  and  its  height 
was  500  feet.  Its  form  was  that  of  a  pyramid,  and  con- 
sisted of  eight  stories,  each  succeeding  section  being  less 
in  dimension  than  the  preceding  one,  and  on  the  top  of 
the  highest  was  a  statue  of  Belus  40  feet  high ;  so  that 
the  whole  was  but  a  little  less  than  600  feet  in  its  ex- 
treme height.  The  great  Pyramid  of  Cheops  is  480  feet 
high,  and  the  circumference  of  its  base  is  2292  feet. 

The  Coliseum  of  Vespasian  covers  six  acres ;  its  height 
is  157  feet;  and  its  larger  diameter,  including  thickness 
of  walls,  is  584  feet. 

The  length  of  St.  Peter's,  in  Rome,  is  613^  feet ;  its 
height,  from  the  pavement  to  the  top  of  the  cross,  is  448 
feet ;  and  the  diameter  of  its  great  dome  is  195|  feet. 

The  circumference  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  in  London,  is 
2292  feet,  or  within  343  feet  of  half  a  mile.  From  east 
to  west  it  measures  510  feet,  and  282  feet  from  north  to 
south ;  and  the  elevation  of  the  cross  from  the  founda- 
tion of  the  church  is  404  feet. 

*  2  Kings  XXV.,  7.  t  Dauiel  iv.,  33. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  161 

The  raaornificent  tower  of  the  Strasburs;  Cathedral  is 
461  feet  in  height,  13  feet  higher  than  the  cross  on  the 
dome  of  St.  Peter's,  in  Home. 

The  celebrated  pillar  near  Delhi,  India,  called  the 
Kootub  Minai%  is  now  242  feet  high,  with  a  base  diam- 
eter of  less  than  50  feet ;  but  in  its  completeness,  its 
height  was  300  feet,  and  consisted  of  seven  stories,  most 
of  which  remain. 

The  Capitol  at  Washington,  unrivaled  in  all  the 
earth  for  grandeur,  covers  three  and  a  half  acres,  has  a 
length  of  752  feet,  a  depth  of  342  feet,  and  a  height  of 
350  feet. 

In  the  light  of  these  well-ascertained  facts,  we  can  very 
readily  believe  the  statements  of  the  ancient  writers  as 
to  the  grand  proportions  of  the  Tower  of  Babel ;  and 
its  subsequent  history  seems  to  confirm  what  we  have 
I'ead  as  to  its  immense  treasures  and  costly  furniture. 
Darius  Hystaspes  would  fain  have  taken  away  the  mas- 
sive statue  of  gold,  but  could  not  execute  his  wishes ; 
but  his  son,  Xerxes,  not  only  stripped  the  tower  of  all 
its  treasures,  statues,  and  ornaments,  but  plundered  the 
Tomb  of  Belus,  put  the  priests  of  the  temple  to  death, 
and  then  reduced  the  splendid  tower  and  its  adjacent 
buildings  to  their  present  condition.  And  we  have  Stra- 
bo  and  Arrian  for  our  authority,  that  when  the  city  was 
surrendered  to  Alexander,  he  commanded  ten  thousand 
men  to  remove  the  rubbish,  preparatory  to  the  rebuild- 
ing of  the  tower ;  but  after  working  tw^o  months,  they 
were  ordered  to  desist,  as  the  workmen  made  less  prog- 
ress than  their  general  had  anticipated. 

There  is  an  apparent  extravagance  of  language  on  the 
part  of  the  Bible  writers  in  their  descriptions  of  the  great- 
ness and  glory  of  Babylon.  Their  words  seem  more  pict- 
uresque than  true.     They  speak  of  it  as  "  the  glory  of 

11 


162  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

kingdoms,  the  beauty  of  the  Chaldees'  excellency  ;"*  "  the 
golden  city  ;"t  "the  lady  of  kingdoms ;"  J  "abundant 
in  treasures  ;"§  "the  praise  of  the  whole  earth  ;''||  and 
"  great  Babylon  that  I  have  built."T  But  these  praises, 
uttered  in  prophetic  vision,  are  fully  sustained  by  his- 
toric facts  ;  and  these  words  of  eulogy  are  more  true  than 
picturesque,  if  we  may  rely  on  the  testimony  of  profane 
writers.  Herodotus,  who  was  an  extensive  traveler,  who 
had  seen  all  the  great  monuments  of  the  age  in  which  he 
lived,  has  said  of  Babylon  :  "  Its  extent,  its  beauty,  and  its 
magnificence  surpass  all  that  has  come  within  my  knowl- 
edo;e."  And  no  less  euloi^-istic  is  the  lano:uao;e  of  Dio- 
dorus  Siculus,  of  Quintus  Curtius,  of  Strabo,  and  of  Pliny, 
who  describe  it  as  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world,  and 
the  admiration  of  mankind.  It  had  a  glory  of  walls,  of 
palaces,  of  temples,  of  hanging  gardens,  of  canals,  of  quays, 
of  tunnels,  of  bridges,  of  commerce,  of  treasures,  of  armies, 
and  of  dominion.  The  great  empire  of  which  Babylon 
was  the  imperial  city  included  an  area  of  a  1000  miles 
in  length,  250  miles  in  breadth,  and  a  superficial  area 
of  250,000  square  miles.  Within  this  was  Babylonia 
proper^  which  was  320  miles  long,  and  from  20  to  100 
miles  wide  on  the  east  of  the  Euphrates,  and  west  of  the 
river  its  length  was  350  miles,  and  its  breadth  was  from 
25  to  30  miles.  In  the  eastern  section  there  were  18,000 
square  miles,  and  in  the  section  west  of  the  Euphrates 
there  were  9000  square  miles,  making  a  total  of  27,000 
square  miles.  Six  hundred  years  befoi-e  our  era,  and  dur- 
ing the  reign  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  the  kingdom  was  in  the 
fullness  of  its  power,  wealth,  and  glory.  That  greatest 
of  all  the  Babylonian  kings  built  or  enlarged  the  cities  of 


*  Isaiali  xiii.,  19.  t  Isaiah  xiv.,4.  X  Isaiah  xlvii.,  5. 

§  Jeremiah  li.,  13.  ||  Jeremiah  li.,  41.  H  Daniel  iv.,  30. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


163 


Sippara,  Barsippa,  Cutlia,  Chilmad,  and  Teredon.  AVith 
the  resources  of  an  empire  subject  to  his  command,  he 
constructed  a  canal  500  miles  long,  extending  from  Hit 
to  the  Bubian  creek,  on  the  Persian  Gulf,  through  which 
the  commerce  of  India  was  brouo-ht  to  his  dominions. 
But  his  ambition  was  to  make  Babylon  the  grandest  city 
in  the  world. 


PLAN  OF   ANCIENT   BABYLON. 


And  how  magnificent  must  have  been  the  "  golden 
city,"  the  "  beauty  of  the  Chaldees'  excellency,"  when 
complete  in  all  its  vast  proportions !     Sixty  miles  in  cir- 


164  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

cuit,  the  great  city  was  in  the  form  of  a  square,  each 
of  its  four  sides  fifteen  miles  long,  and  surrounded  with 
a  trench,  deep  and  wide,  and  filled  with  water.  From 
the  margin '  of  the  moat  rose  the  great  wall,  containing 
200,000,000  yards  of  solid  masonry,  or  nearly  twice  the 
cubic  contents  of  the  great  wall  of  China,  composed  of 
the  earth  thrown  up  from  the  trench,  and  faced  with  sun- 
dried  brick,  each  stamped  with  the  name  of  the  ]iroud 
king.  The  great  wall  was  eighty-seven  feet  thick,  so  wide 
as  to  allow  four  chariots  to  mov^e  abreast  thereon,  and, 
from  the  bottom  of  the  moat  to  the  top  of  the  parapet, 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  Two  hundred  and 
fifty  towers,  each  ten  feet  high,  rose  above  the  parapet. 
One  hundred  gates  of  brass  opened  to  as  many  noble 
avenues;  and  between  every  two  gates  were  four  of 
the  towers,  with  other  towers  at  the  angles  of  the  wall. 
Each  of  the  fifty  streets  was  fifteen  miles  long  and  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  broad,  which  crossed  each  other 
at  rio;ht  ano-les.  Then  there  were  half  streets,  with 
houses  on  one  side  and  the  wall  of  the  city  on  the  other, 
each  two  hundred  feet  broad.  These  avenues,  crossing 
each  other  as  they  did,  divided  the  city  into  six  hun- 
dred and  seventy-six  squares,  each  square  two  and  a  half 
miles  in  circuit.  Around  these  squares,  and  facing  the 
streets,  were  the  buildings,  three  and  four  stories  high, 
while  the  centre  of  each  square  was  a  beautiful  garden, 
irrigated  from  the  numberless  canals  which  conveyed 
the  waters  of  the  Euphrates  to  the  palace  of  the  king 
and  the  cottage  of  the  peasant.  Spanning  the  river,  and" 
connecting  the  two  parts  of  the  city,  was  a  bridge  five 
hundred  feet  long  and  thirty  feet  wide.  Down  the 
brick  embankment,  broad  steps  led  to  the  water's  edge. 
Above  the  bridge  and  embankment  rose  an  obelisk  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high,  to  commemorate  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  165 

completion  of  works  so  great.  Along  the  banks  of  the 
river  were  the  Hanging  Gardens,  blooming  with  fragrant 
flowers,  shaded  by  a  thousand  trees,  cooled  by  fountains 
whose  jeweled  waters  sparkled  in  the  sunlight.  Sur- 
rounded by  a  triple  wall,  and  guarded  by  gates  of  brass, 
rose  the  royal  palace,  whose  walls  were  adorned  with 
pictures  of  the  chase,  of  martial  processions,  and  festive 
scenes;  whose  apartments  were  furnished  with  the  car- 
pets of  Persia,  the  silks  of  Damascus,  the  jewels  of  Bo- 
khara; whose  imperial  occupant  was  at  once  the  dread 
and  the  admiration  of  all  nations.  I^ising  above  all  the 
other  structures  was  the  Tower  of  Babel,  six  hundred 
feet  high,  crowned  with  a  statue  of  Belus,  made  of  the 
finest  gold,  which  shone  resplendent  in  the  morning  and 
evening  sunlight.  Into  the  city  flowed  the  wealth  of  all 
nations.  Merchants  came  fi'om  afar.  Caravans  came 
from  Egypt,  Idumea,  Syria,  Sardis,  and  Susa.  The  high- 
ways across  the  desert,  from  the  plains  of  Palestine  and 
the  hills  of  Arabia,  were  protected  by  fortified  stations ; 
walled  cities  served  as  resting-places  and  store- houses; 
and  wells,  at  regular  intervals,  gave  an  abundant  supply 
of  water  during  the  hottest  season  of  the  year.  Other 
causeways  led  from  Mesopotamia  and  Persia  and  Me- 
dia, on  which  were  caravansaries  for  the  accommodation 
of  man  and  beast.  Up  the  Persian  Gulf  came  vessels 
freighted  with  frankincense,  precious  stones,  ivory,  ebony, 
dyes,  spices,  and  silks  from  Ceylon  and  India;  down 
the  Tigris  and  the  Euphrates  came  rafts  of  inflated 
skins,  loaded  with  good's  from  Armenia  and  Kurdistan ; 
while  in  the  marts  of  commerce  in  the  city  were  of 
fered  to  the  foreign  merchant  Babylonian  carpets,  silks, 
woolen  fabrics,  embroidered  with  figures  of  mystic  ani- 
•mals  and  with  exquisite  designs,  which  were  not  less 
famous  for  the  beauty  of  their  texture  and  workman- 


166  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

ship  than  for  the  richness  and  variety  of  their  colors/'^^ 
Around  each  palace  and  temple,  in  the  great  castle,  at 
the  hundred  gates  of  brass,  in  the  two  hundred  and  fifty 
towers  on  the  walls,  were  stationed  tlrat  army  of  war- 
riors who  had  plundered  Egypt,  who  had  sacked  Jerusa- 
lem, and  subdued  Mesoi^otamia.  And  by  the  "  rivers  of 
Babylon  "  sat  king,  priest,  and  prophet,  captives  from  the 
Holy  Land ;  while  from  conquered  province  and  king- 
dom was  brought  the  annual  tribute  of  gold  and  silver, 
of  horses  and  camels,  of  young  men  for  the  army  and 
maidens  for  the  palace,  the  spoils  of  war.  Great,  in- 
deed, was  Babylon  !  Great  in  all  that  men  considered 
greatness.  Proud  of  his  magnificent  city,  vain  of  his  suc- 
cess, forgetful  of  One  higher  than  he,  "  The  king  spake, 
and  said,  Is  not  this  great  Babylon,  that  I  have  built  for 
the  house  of  the  kingdom  by  the  might  of  my  power, 
and  for  the  honor  of  my  majesty  ?"f 

But  how  a  city  so  pojDulous,  so  wealthy,  so  magnifi- 
cent, could  become  a  desolation,  is  a  fact  as  interesting 
as  it  is  true.  The  period  of  its  might  and  glory  was  less 
than  a  hundred  years.  Prior  to  the  sixth  century  be- 
fore the  Christian  era.  Babylonia  was  a  province  of  the 
Assyrian  empire,  and  its  vassal  king  was  Nabopolassar, 
father  of  Nebuchadnezzar.  But  when,  about  six  hun- 
di'ed  and  twenty-five  years  before  our  era,  the  empire  of 
Assyria  gave  signs  of  decay,  Nabopolassar  joined  the 
allied  armies  of  Media  and  Persia  under  Cyaxares,  to 
throw  off  the  Assyrian  yoke,  and,  being  successful,  re- 
ceived, as  his  share  of  the  spoils  of  war,  Nineveh  and 
the.  whole  valley  of  the  Euphrates.  His  reign  was  long 
and  prosperous,  and,  at  his  death,  was  succeeded  to  the 
throne  of  the  great  empire  by  his  son  Nebuchadnezzar, 

• 

*  Layard.  t  Daniel  iv.,  30. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  167 

who  reigned  forty-four  years,  and  died  at  the  advanced 
age  of  eighty,  justly  renowned  the  greatest  monarch  of 
the  Eastern  world.  At  the  death  of  Nebuchadnezzar, 
his  son,  Evil-merodach,  came  to  the  throne,  whose  brief 
and  quiet  reign  did  not  exceed  two  years.  Conspiracies 
followed.  Usurpers  sought  the  crown  and  sceptre  of 
Babylon.  But  the  right  of  succession  prevailed,  and 
Belshazzar  ascended  the  throne  of  his  fathers.  Unfort- 
unately for  him  and  his  kingdom,  he  incurred  the  dis- 
pleasure of  Cyrus,  who  marched  his  victorious  armies 
against  the  imperial  city,  and,  having  caj)tured  it  by 
stratagem,  reduced  Babylonia  to  a  province  of  Persia. 
And  thus,  after  an  existence  of  eighty-eight  years,  from 
625  to  538  B.C.,  the  great  empire  of  Babylon  was  num- 
bered with  the  things  of  the  past. 

So  long  accustomed  to  their  freedom,  to  a  life  of  luxu- 
ry, and  the  splendors  of  a  j^roud  and  powerful  court,  the 
Babylonians  revolted,  and  struggled  hard  to  regain  their 
ancient  independence.  They  maintained  themselves  in 
a  siege  of  twenty  months  against  Darius,  the  son  of  Hys- 
taspes,  whom  Cyrus  had  commissioned  to  retake  the  city  ; 
but^their  long  endurance  was  unavailing,  for  Darius  was 
triumphant,  and,  to  prevent  another  revolt,  ordered  his 
soldiers  to  demolish  the  great  wall,  which  had  been  the 
pride  of  Babylon,  and  the  admiration  of  the  world.  This 
memorable  event  occurred  in  the  year  510  b.c,  and  was 
but  the  fulfillment  of  a  prophetic  denunciation  uttered 
two  centuries  before.  A  greater  calamity,  however, 
awaited  the  "  golden  city."  Just  twenty  -  nine  years 
thereafter,  Xerxes  returned  from  his  disastrous  campaign 
against  the  Greeks,  and,  to  replenish  his  exhausted  means, 
plundered  the  city,  demolished  the  Temple  of  Belus,  and 
carried  off  the  gods  of  gold  and  the  rich  ornaments  be- 
longing to  that  noble  structure.    Conqueror  succeeded  con- 


168  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

qiieroi*.  There  was  no  power  that  could  avert  tlie  final 
ruin  of"  Babylon,  the  glory  of  kingdoms."  After  the  de- 
feat of  Darius,  and  the  overthrow  of  the  Persian  suprem- 
acy, Alexander  the  Great  gave  it  the  final  blow,  in  325 
B.C.  Three  years  thereaftei",  his  successor,  Seleucus  Nica- 
tor,  laid  the  foundations  of  Seleucia,  less  than  fifty  miles 
to  the  north-east,  on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris,  and  thither 
he  compelled  the  inhabitants  of  Babylon  to  go  in  large 
numbers,  to  augment  the  population  of  his  new  imperial 
city.  Nor  was  this  the  last  vial  of  wrath  to  be  poured 
upon  the  devoted  city.  The  end  was  not  yet.  One  woe 
had  passed;  another  was  yet  to  come.  The  Parthians 
had  succeeded  the  Macedonians,  and  the  kings  of  Parthia 
caused,  in  the  year  127  b.c,  another  emigration.  Some 
had  ventured  to  return  to  their  miserable  homes,  and 
were  clinging  with  fondness  to  the  ruins  of  happier  days, 
when  the  plague  sent  many  to  their  graves.  As  evils 
never  come  solitary,  but  rather  in  rapid  succession,  so, 
about  this  time,  the  embankments  which  had  prevented 
an  overflow  of  the  river,  but  which  had  been  so  long  neg- 
lected, gave  way,  and  the  waters  of  the  Euphrates  flooded 
the  city. 

The  destruction  of  a  great  city  is  not  easy  to  accom- 
plish. It  is  not  the  work  of  a  day.  Its  final  abandon- 
ment and  utter  desolation  require  the  vicissitudes  of  cen- 
turies. A  thousand  years  elapsed  from  the  death  of  Bel- 
shazzar,  the  last  king  of  Babylon,  to  the  time  when  the 
city  became  a  "  desolation,  a  dry  land,  and  a  wilderness." 
Neither  plague,  nor  flood,  nor  deportation,  could  exhaust 
completely  the  population.  The  Christian  era  was  ush- 
ered in  by  the  birth  of  a  Saviour,  and  a  remnant  of  Jews 
and  Chaldeans  still  clung  to  the  seat  of  departed  great- 
ness. And  Babylon  might  have  lingered  in  her  reduced 
condition,  had  not  religious  intolerance  pi'ovoked  a  civil 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  1(39 

war,  the  cause  of  which  was  the  devoteduess  of  the  Jews 
to  their  religion,  a  hxi'ge  number  of  whom  perished  in  the 
persecution ;  and  those  who  escaped  the  sword  iled  for 
refuge  to  Seleucia.  To  punish  the  remnant  of  the  inhab- 
itants for  a  revolt,  w^hich  occurred  in  the  early  part  of 
the  second  centur}^  of  our  era,  the  Parthian  king,  Eveme- 
rus,  deported  numerous  families  into  Media,  wdiere  they 
were  sold  as  slaves,  and  burned  many  beautiful  edifices, 
which  had  escaped  the  torch  of  preceding  conquerors. 
But  the  work  of  utter  destruction  was  not  completed,  for, 
at  a  later  j^eriod,  the  Emperor  Trajan  visited  the  house 
in  Babylon  in  which  Alexander  the  Great  had  died,  and 
performed  religious  ceremonies  to  the  memory  of  that 
great  \varrioi'.  But  the  beginning  of  the  end  had  come. 
Lucian  of  Samosata,  a  town  not  far  from  the  Euphrates, 
who  wrote  durino;  the  reis^n  of  Marcus  Aurelius,  refers 
to  Babylon  as  a  "  city  that  had  been  remarkable  for  its 
numerous  towers  and  vast  circumference,  but  which  would 
soon  disappear,  as  Nineveh  had  done."  This  was  the  con- 
dition of  the  "  beauty  of  the  Chaldees'  excellency  "  at  the 
close  of  the  second  century  of  the  Christian  era.  In  two 
hundred  years  thereafter,  the  canals  which  led  from  the 
Euphrates  became  obstructed  by  the  alluvial  deposits, 
and  Babylon  was  converted  into  a  vast  marsh ;  and  fifty 
years  later,  the  river  changed  its  course,  leaving  only  a 
small  channel  to  mark  its  ancient  bed.  And  from  the 
fifth  century  to  the  present  time,  all  writers,  whether  sec- 
ular or  ecclesiastical,  who  refer  to  the  subject,  describe 
Babylon  as  destroyed,  forsaken,  and  a  desolation. 

It  was  with  no  ordinary  interest  that  I  sat  amidst 
these  ancient  ruins,  and  read  from  the  Bible  those  pro- 
phetic denunciations  against  the  "  golden  city,"  which  had 
been  uttered  prior  to  and  while  yet  Babylon  was  in  hei' 
strength  and  glory,  and  the  exact  fulfillment  of  which  it 


170  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

was  my  privilege  to  witness.  The  past  returned  with 
the  reality  of  the  present.  Twenty-five  centuries  passed 
in  review  before  me.  The  voice  of  Isaiah  was  heard  in 
sublime  apostrophe :  "  Come  down,  and  sit  in  the  dust, 
O  virgin  daughter  of  Babylon,  sit  on  the  ground :  there 
is  no  throne,  O  daughter  of  the  Chaldeans :  for  thou  shalt 
no  more  be  called  tender  and  delicate.  Sit  thou  silent, 
and  get  thee  into  darkness,  O  daughter  of  the  Chaldeans: 
for  thou  shalt  no  more  be  called  The  lady  of  kingdoms."* 
On  my  right  were  the  plains  and  mountains  of  those  con- 
quering hosts  whom  the  prophet  summoned  to  battle: 
"  Go  up,  O  Elam  :  besiege,  O  Media."f  "  Make  bright 
the  arrows ;  gather  the  shields :  the  Lord  hath  raised  up 
the  spirit  of  the  kings  of  the  Medes:  for  his  device  is 
against  Babylon,  to  destroy  it." J  "  Thus  saith  the  Lord 
to  his  anointed,  to  Cyrus,  whose  right  hand  I  have  hold- 
en,  to  subdue  nations  before  him ;  and  I  will  loose  the 
loins  of  kings,  to  open  before  him  the  two-leaved  gates, 
and  the  gates  shall  not  be  shut."§  Around  me  lay  the 
ruins  of  that  proud  city  whose  terrified  inhabitants  re- 
fused to  fight,  and  whose  king  Cyrus  challenged  to  a 
duel :  "  The  mighty  men  of  Babylon  have  forborne  to 
fight,  they  have  remained  in  their  holds:  their  might 
hath  failed."!  Before  me  flowed  the  ancient  Euphrates, 
whose  waters  Cyrus  diverted  on  the  night  he  took  the 
city  :  "  That  saith  to  the  deep,  Be  dry,  and  I  will  dry  up 
thy  rivers."T  On  its  margin  lay  the  remains  of  the  great 
embankment,  down  whose  side  broad  steps  were  laid  to 
the  water's  edge,  where  were  the  "  two -leaved  gates," 
which  a  drunken  guard  had  left  open :  "And  the  gates 
shall  not  be  shut."**     Through  those  twenty -five  un- 

*  Isaiah  xlvii.,  1,  5.  t  Isaiah  xxi.,  2.  J  Jeremiah  li.,  11. 

§  Isaiah  xlv.,  1.  I  Jeremiah  li.,  30.  IT  Isaiah  xliv.,  27, 

**  Isaiah  xlv,,  1. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  171 

guarded  gates,  which  opened  to  as  many  avenues  in  the 
city,  Mede  and  Persian  passed  at  dead  of  night,  to  sur- 
prise a  city  abandoned  to  feasting  and  I'evehy  :  "  In  their 
heat  I  will  make  their  feasts,  and  I  will  make  them 
drunken."*^  "  Prepare  the  table,  watch  in  the  watch-tow- 
er, eat,  drink  :  arise,  ye  princes,  and  anoint  the  shield."f 
"  I  have  laid  a  snare  for  thee,  and  thou  art  also  taken,  O 
Babylon,  and  thou  wast  not  aware :  thou  art  found,  and 
also  caught,  because  thou  hast  striven  against  the  Lord."J 
In  the  confusion  that  prevailed,  herald  met  herald,  bear- 
ing dispatches  to  the  king :  "  One  post  shall  run  to  meet 
another,  and  one  messenger  to  meet  another,  to  show  the 
king  of  Babylon  that  his  city  is  taken  at  one  end."§ 
"  The  king  of  Babylon  hath  heard  the  report  of  them, 
and  his  hands  waxed  feeble."  11     Not  far  from  that  hi^h 

II  O 

embankment  lay  the  ruins  of  Belshazzar's  palace,  where- 
in, on  that  dreadful  night,  the  king  had  made  a  great 
feast  to  a  thousand  of  his  lords,  and  at  his  command  were 
brought  the  gold  and  silver  vessels  that  were  taken  out 
of  the  house  of  God,  which  was  at  Jerusalem,  from  which 
he,  his  princes,  wives,  and  concubines  drank  wine,  and 
praised  the  gods  of  gold,  of  silver,  of  brass,  of  iron,  of 
wood  and  stone ;  when  suddenly,  amidst  the  scene  of  rev- 
elry and  blasphemy,  came  forth  lingers  of  a  man's  hand 
and  wrote  on  the  plaster  of  the  wall, "  Thy  kingdom  is 
divided,  and  given  to  the  Medes  and  Persians."  "In  that 
night  was  Belshazzar,  the  king  of  the  Chaldeans,  slain  ;" 
and,  by  appointment  by  Cyrus,  "  Darius  the  Median  took 
the  kingdom."^  From  palace  and  castle,  from  gate  and 
tower,  through  the  broad  avenues,  along  the  by-ways,  a 
surprised  and  terrified  people  fled,  but  only  to  be  over- 


*  Jeremiah  li.,  39.  t  Isaiah  xxi.,  5.  J  Jeremiah  1.,  24. 

§  Jeremiah  li.,  31.  |  Jeremiah  1.,  43.  IT  Dauiel  v.,  1-81. 


172  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

taken  and  slain  by  tlieir  cruel  pursuers:  "Every  one  that 
is  found  shall  be  thrust  through ;  and  every  one  that  is 
joined  unto  them  shall  fall  by  the  sword."'"^'  "  Therefore 
shall  her  young  men  tall  in  the  streets,  and  all  her  men 
of  war  shall  be  cut  off  in  that  day,  saith  the  Lord.^f  To 
this  indiscriminate  slaughter  of  the  inhabitants  Xenophon 
testifies ;  and,  to  restrain  his  soldiers  therein,  Cyrus  com- 
manded his  cavalry  to  massacre  only  those  found  in  the 
streets ;  while  to  the  people  he  issued  an  order  to  remain 
within  their  houses. 

On  the  mound  where  I  sat,  and  on  the  plain  below, 
were  the  scattered  vitrified  remains  of  that  proud  tem- 
ple wherein  Bel  was  worshiped  and  Nebo  received  Di- 
vine honors,  but  which  Xerxes  destroyed,  and  plundered 
of  its  gods  and  treasures :  "  Bel  boweth  down,  Nebo 
stoopeth;  their  idols  were  upon  the  beasts,  and  upon 
the  cattle." J  "  Declare  ye  among  the  nations,  and  pub- 
lish, and  set  up  a  standard ;  publish,  and  conceal  not : 
say  Babylon  is  taken,  Bel  is  confounded,  Merodach  is 
broken  in  pieces;  her  idols  are  confounded,  her  images 
are  broken  in  pieces."§  Nowhere  on  the  vast,  dreary 
plain  around  me,  within  a  circuit  of  sixty  miles  square 
(the  assigned  limits  of  "  Great  Babylon  ")  could  be  seen 
in  its  ancient  glor}^  the  great  wall  of  the  city,  with  its 
gates  and  equidistant  towers,  all  of  stupendous  height 
and  thickness,  which  once  existed :  "  Shout  against  her 

round  about : her  foundations  are  fallen,  her  walls 

are  thrown  down."||  "Thus  saitli  the  Lord  of  hosts; 
The  broad  walls  pf  Babylon  shall  be  utterly  broken,  and 
her  high  gates  shall  be  burned  with  fire."^  The  de- 
struction  of  such   vast  fortifications  is  no  less  a   won- 


*  Isaiah  xiii.,  15.  t  Jeremiah  1.,  30.  J  Isaiah  xlvi.,  1. 

§  Jeremiah  1.,  3.  ||  Jeremiah  1.,  15.  IF  Jeremiah  li.,  58. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  173 

der  than  were  their  enormous  dimensions.  Cyrus  com- 
manded the  destruction,  and  Darius  Hystaspes  executed 
the  order  in  part.  Subsequent  conquei'ors  demolished 
what  Darius  had  left,  aided  by  the  winds  and  rains  of 
the  ages ;  so  that  to-day  can  be  seen,  and  only  here  and 
there,  low,  shapeless,  detached  mounds,  where  once  the 
proud  walls  stood.  From  the  summit  of  Babel,  I  looked 
out  upon  a  vast  sheet  of  water,  the  overflow  of  the 
Euphrates,  whose  embankments,  utterly  neglected,  had 
broken  away,  and  "  The  sea  is  come  up  upon  Babylon : 
she  is  covered  with  the  multitude  of  the  waves  thereof"'^' 
How  strangely,  grandly  true  seemed  these  prophetic 
utterances,  as  I  read  them  amidst  the  scene  of  their  ful- 
fillment !  They  were  predictions  by  Isaiah  and  Jeremiah, 
and  the  facts  therein  announced  are  confirmed  by  Herod- 
otus and  Xenophon,  by  Diodorus  and  Strabo,  by  Ar- 
rian  and  Quintus  Curtius,  by  Benjamin  of  Tudela  and 
Beauchamp,  by  Rich  and  Layard.  Isaiah  lived  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  years  before  Herodotus,  and  three  hun- 
dred years  before  Xenophon.  He  prophesied  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  years  before  Nebuchadnezzar  came  to  the 
throne,  and  over  two  hundred  years  before  Cyrus  took 
the  city.  Jeremiah  lived  one  hundred  and  fifty  years 
before  Herodotus,  and  two  hundred  years  before  Xeno- 
phon, and  prophesied  nearly  one  hundred  years  before* 
the  city  was  taken  by  the  Medes  and  Persians.  Proph- 
ecy is  history  foretold ;  history  is  jorophecy  fulfilled. 
Isaiah  and  Jeremiah  were  the  prophets;  Herodotus  and 
Xenophon  were  the  historians.  The  correspondence  be- 
tween the  predictions  and  the  historic  facts  is  no  less 
marvelous  than  true.  It  is  scarcely  probable  that  the 
historians  were  aware  of  the  prophecies  of  the  Hebrew 

*  Jeremiah  li.,  43. 


174  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

seers,  and,  had  they  been,  we  have  no  reason  to  suppose 
that  they  had  any  interest  in  making  good  the  predic- 
tions. There  are,  however,  some  proj^hecies  which  re- 
quired a  thousand  years  for  their  fulfilhnent,  and  of 
which  the  traveler  of  to-day  is  the  living  witness.  Sub- 
lime in  language,  definite  in  statement,  minute  in  de- 
scription, Isaiah  foretold  the  utter  desolation  of  the  once 
proud  city:  "And  Babylon,  the  glory  of  kingdoms,  the 
beauty  of  the  Chaldees'  excellency,  shall  be  as  when  God 
overthrew  Sodom  and  Gomorrah.  It  shall  never  be  in- 
habited, neither  shall  it  be  dwelt  in  from  generation  to 
generation  :  neither  shall  the  Arabian  pitch  tent  there ; 
neither  shall  the  shepherds  make  their  fold  there.  But 
wild  beasts  of  the  desert  shall  lie  there ;  and  their 
houses  shall  be  full  of  doleful  creatures ;  and  owls  shall 
dwell  there,  and  satyrs  shall  dance  there.  And  the  wild 
beasts  of  the  islands  shall  cry  in  their  desolate  houses, 
and  dragons  in  their  pleasant  palaces.""^'  It  was,  indeed, 
bold  in  the  prophet  to  predict  that  a  city  so  vast  and 
grand  as  Babylon  "  shall  never  be  inhabited."  It  stood 
on  a  peninsular  plain  between  two  noble  rivers,  and, 
by  irrigation,  the  soil  was  rich  and  2:)roductive,  while  by 
means  of  those  rivers  an  extensive  commerce  was  carried 
on  with  Mesopotamia,  Arabia,  Persia,  and  India.  But 
all  attempts  to  perpetuate  the  existence  of  the  city  have 
signally  failed.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  Alexander 
the  Great  determined  to  make  Babylon  the  seat  of  his 
empire.  He  commanded  the  people  to  rebuild  the  por- 
tions which  had  been  destroyed.  He  ordered  ten  thou- 
sand of  his  soldiers  to  clear  away  the  rubbish,  that  the 
Temple  of  Belus  might  be  restored  to  its  former  splen- 
dor.    He  hastened  his  return  from  India,  that  he  might 

*  Isaiah  xiii.,  19-33. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  175 

accelerate  the  work  of  restoration ;  but  lie  returned  to 
Babylon,  not  to  reign,  but  to  die.  His  indomitable  will, 
his  vast  resources,  his  pride  and  ambition  to  be  sover- 
^eign  monarch  of  the  East,  his  delight  in  the  noble  city 
whose  gates  had  been  opened  to  receive  him,  whose 
priests  and  chief  men  had  greeted  him  with  royal  gifts, 
all  seemed  to  conspire  to  prove  the  oracles  of  God  a  fail- 
ure. But  no  device  against  the  Lord  shall  prosper. 
Man  proposes ;  God  disposes.  In  his  thirty-second  year, 
Alexander  is  smitten  with  fever,  and  dies  on  the  very 
scene  of  his  triumph.  His  great  empire  is  divided  by 
his  generals;  and  Seleucus  Nicator  Ijuilds  Seleucia,  to 
be  the  new  capital  of  the  East,  and  thither  departed  the 
citizens  of  Babylon.^'  At  a  subsequent  period,  the  Par- 
thian kings  made  Babylon  a  hunting -park  for  royal 
sports,  which  promised  to  last  long;  but  the  Divine  de- 
cree had  gone  forth,  and  another  human  purpose  failed. 
Ao-ain  and  ao-ain.  both  Chaldeans  and  Jews  returned, 
and  fondly  clung  to  the  seat  of  ancient  empire ;  but  fire 
and  sword,  plague  and  the  floods,  drove  them  thence.f 
Out  of  the  ruins  of  the  "  golden  city,"  the  materials  were 
taken  wherewith  to  build  Seleucia  and  Ctesiphon,  Bag- 
dad and  Hillah,  and  other  cities  of  less  renown.  In  no 
sense  is  the  Moslem  town  of  Hillah,  with,  its  ten  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  the  restoration  of  the  ancient  city. 
The  walls,  the  temples,  the  palaces,  the  dwellings  of  Bab- 
ylon, have  not  been  rebuilt.  The  once  proud  city  is  a 
desolation  without  an  inhabitant. 

"  Neither  shall  the  Arabian  pitch  his  tent  there,"  is  as 
true  to-day  as  ever  in  the  past.  On  the  plains  of  Ara- 
bia, in  the  valleys  of  Syria,  from  Bagdad  to  Mosul,  the 
Arab  spreads  his  tent  wherever  night   overtakes  him, 

*  Arrian.  t  Jerome. 


170  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

and  lies  down  therein  confident  of  safety ;  but  when 
traveling  between  Bagdad  and  Ilillah,  he  times  bis  jour- 
ney to  be  at  a  khan  at  the  close  of  each  day.  And  when 
the  daring  European  traveler  j^resumes  to  encamp  amidst 
the  ruins  of  Babylon,  he  does  so  under  the  protection  of 
a  strong  military  force,  who  stand  guard  the  live -long 
night;  and  even  he  does  so  at  his  peril  from  Bedouin 
robbers  and  wild  beasts  of  the  desert.  And  the  shep- 
herd is  no  less  fearful  of  danger  than  the  Arabian.  At 
sunrise,  the  shepherds  lead  their  flocks  of  sheep  and 
goats  to  feed  during  the  day  in  the  jungle,  but  return 
therewith  to  the  fortified  khan  ere  the  sun  goes  down. 
They  never  fold  their  flocks  in  the  jungle  or  on  the 
plain,  so  that  Isaiah's  prophetic  words  are  still  true : 
"  Neither  shall  the  shej^herds  make  their  fold  there." 

Isaiah's  menao;erie  offers  more  difficulties  to  the  inter- 
preter  of  his  prophecies,  and  the  beasts  and  birds  he  spec- 
ifies may  not  V)e  identified  with  certainty.  But  that  the 
ruins  of  Babylon  have  been  and  are  now,  together  with 
all  that  section  of  the  peninsula,  the  resort  of  wild  beasts, 
of  poisonous  reptiles,  and  "  doleful  creatures,"  is  a  fact 
mentioned  by  the  most  intelligent  and  reliable  travelers. 
The  Parthian  kings  were  not  aware  that  they  were  fulfill- 
ing an  ancient  prophecy  when  they  converted  a  portion 
of  tlie  space  within  the  walls  into  a  hunting  park,  in 
which  they  kept  many  wild  animals  for  their  I'oyal  sport. 
Rauwolff,  a  German  traveler,  who  visited  the  ruined  cit}' 
in  the  sixteenth  century,  says  of  the  Temple  of  Belus : 
"This  tower  is  so  full  of  venomous  animals  that  it  can 
only  be  approached  during  two  months  in  the  winter, 
when  they  do  not  leave  their  holes."  In  the  year  1657, 
a  Carmelite  monk  passed  up  the  Euphrates  en  route  for 
Bagdad,  and,  when  near  Hillah,  he  "heard  the  roaring  of 
the  lions,  who  from  time  to  time  answered  one  another 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  177 

from  the  opposite  shores  of  the  river,  to  our  no  small  ter- 
ror." Ill  December,  1811,  Mr.  Claudius  James  Kich,  then 
English  consul  at  Bagdad,  made  excavations  among  the 
ruins  of  Belshazzar's  palace,  and  says :  "  There  are  many 
dens  of  wild  beasts  in  various  parts,  in  one  of  which  I 
found  the  bones  of  sheep  and  other  animals,  and  perceived 
a  strong  smell,  like  that  of  a  lion.  I  also  found  quanti- 
ties of  porcupine  quills ;  and  in  most  of  the  cavities  are 
numbers  of  bats  and  owls.  It  is  a  curious  coincidence 
that  I  here  first  heard  the  Oriental  account  of  satyrs.  I 
had  always  imagined  the  belief  of  their  existence  confined 
to  the  mythology  of  the  West;  but  a  native,  who  was 
with  me  when  I  examined  the  ruins,  mentioned  by  acci- 
dent that  in  this  desert  an  animal  is  found  resemblino;  a 
man  from  the  head  to  the  waist,  but  havino-  the  this^hs 
and  legs  of  a  sheep  or  goat ;  that  the  Arabs  hunt  it  with 
dogs,  and  eat  the  lower  parts,  abstaining  from  the  upper 
on  account  of  their  resemblance  to  those  of  the  human 
species."  Of  the  ruins  of  the  Hanging  Gardens,  he  ob- 
serves :  "All  the  people  of  the  country  assert  that  it  is 
extremely  dangerous  to  approach  this  mound  after  night- 
fall, on  account  of  the  multitude  of  evil  spirits  by  which 
it  is  haunted."  In  speaking  of  the  neighboring  section 
of  country,  inhabited  by  the  Afaij  Arabs,  Layard  notes 
the  fact:  "In  the  jungles  are  found  leopards,  lynxes,  wild 
cats,  wolves,  hyenas,  jackals,  deer, porcupines,  boars  in  vast 
numbers,  and  other  animals."  Lions  walk  about  the 
streets  of  Hillah,  and  in  the  governor\s  yard  I  saw  one 
chained,  and  with  it  men  and  boys  were  playing.  A 
large  lion  was  in  the  habit  of  coming  regularl}^  every 
evening  from  the  Euphrates  to  a  canal,  which  I  crossed 
on  my  way  to  Babylon,  and  which  repeated  his  visits  in 
search  of  prey  till  shot  by  one  of  the  Arabs.  Captain 
Co^vley,  of  the  steamer  on  ^vhich  I  came  up  the  Tigris, 

12 


178  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

shot  three  lions,  which  had  their  lair  on  an  island  nearly 
opposite  the  ruined  city ;  while  on  almost  every  day  of 
the  voyage  we  saw  wolves,  wild  boars,  and  other  danger- 
ous animals. 

Such  is  the  remarkable  fulfillment  of  the  extraordinary 
predictions  of  the  Hebrew  prophets.  What  they  fore- 
told has  become  historic.  The  prophet  of  the  future  is 
now  the  historian  of  the  past.  And  the  coming  ages  are 
to  testify  to  the  inspiration  of  the  Sacred  Record.  "  It 
shall  never  be  inhabited,"  is  a  prediction  for  all  future 
time.  What  the  future  may  bring  forth  is  known  only 
to  the  Omniscient.  Great  changes  are  impending  in  the 
East.  A  railroad  will  yet  traverse  the  whole  valley  of 
the  Euphrates.  In  the  application  of  projected  improve- 
ments, the  Euphrates  and  Tigris  will  be  navigable  for 
hundreds  of  miles  inland.  Commercial  communication 
by  steamer  and  locomotive  will  be  established  between 
the  Mediterranean  and  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  great 
peninsula  of  Babylonia  is  too  important  in  location  and 
resources  not  to  be  affected  by  the  coming  changes.  Yet 
the  purpose  of  God  shall  stand,  and  his  word  shall  not 
fail.  "The  Lord  hath  opened  his  armory,  and  hath 
brought  forth  the  weapons  of  his  indignation :  for  this 
is  the  work  of  the  Lord  God  of  hosts  in  the  land  of  the 
Chaldeans."*  His  armory  is  full  of  all  wea2:)ons  neces- 
sary for  the  defense  of  his  word.  Beneath  the  ruins  of 
Babylon  are  inscribed  tablets  which  will  be  brought  to 
light  when  needed  to  vindicate  the  prediction  of  the  seer 
and  the  record  of  the  historian.  Thus  far  the  excavations 
at  Babylon  have  been  limited,  and  the  discoveries  have 
been  few ;  but  the  discoveries  thus  far  made  have  sus- 
tained the  Bible  writers  in  the  most  extraordinary  man- 

*  Jeremiah  1.,  25. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  179 

ner.  Daniel's  account  of  the  insanity  of  Nebuchadnez- 
zar has  been  called  in  question ;  but  medical  science  has 
designated  the  king's  mental  malady  as  lycantliroj)}/,  dur- 
ing which  the  patient  imagines  himself  to  be  an  animal, 
and  for  the  time  assumes  the  habits  of  the  animal  he  fan- 
cies himself  to  be.  Nebuchadnezzar  imagined  himself  to 
be  an  ox,  and  like  an  ox  he  ate  grass ;  and  the  fact  is  no 
less  curious  than  interesting,  that  in  the  valley  of  the  Eu- 
phrates there  is  a  grass  which  is  succulent,  has  a  mild 
peppery  taste,  is  eaten  by  the  natives,  and  is  called  "  Neb- 
uchadnezzar's grass."  And  recently  a  large  tablet  was 
discovered,  on  which  were  inscribed  the  reio-n.  the  mad- 
ness,  and  death  of  Nebuchadnezzar.  For  a  long  time,  the 
opinion  prevailed  that  Daniel  had  made  a  mistake  in 
naming  Belshazzar  as  one  of  the  kings  of  Babylon.  It 
was  stated  that  no  such  king  had  existed,  as  his  name 
could  not  be  found  in  the  annals  of  the  kino-dom ;  but 
in  due  time  a  tablet  was  exhumed  bearino^  tlie  name  of 
"  Belshazzar,.  King  of  Babylon."  Such  illustrations  are 
sufficient  to  show  how  hazardous  it  is  to  assail  the  truth- 
fulness of  the  Divine  Record,  for  the  evidences  thereof 
lie  buried  in  the  earth. 

Descendino;  from  the  summit  of  Babel,  and  crossino- 
the  intervening  valley,  we  ascended  the  companion  mound 
on  which  tradition  locates  the  "fiery  furnace  of  Shad- 
rach,  Meshach,  and  Abed-nego."  Around  us  were  heaps 
of  brick  and  mortar  which  had  undergone  the  action  of 
fire.  The  tomb  of  a  Moslem  saint  now  crowns  the  sum- 
mit, and  adjoining  it  is  a  small  mosque,  wherein  we  might 
have  remained  all  night,  had  not  our  soldier-guide  pro- 
tested, and  warned  us  of  the  danger  from  wild  beasts 
and  Bedouin  robbers. 

In  less  than  three  hours  we  were  again  at  Hillah, 
and  at  sunrise  the  next  morning  w^e  started  on  our  re- 


180  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

turn  journey  to  Bagdad.  The  day  was  deliglitful ;  tlie 
skies  were  bright,  the  air  was  balmy,  and  the  vernal 
sun  shone  genially  upon  us.  Crossing  the  boat-bridge 
over  the  Euphrates,  and  wending  our  way  through  the 
palm-groves  ou  the  opposite  bank,  we  soon  passed  the 
"lions'  den,"  looked  for  the  last  time  on  the  Hanging 
Gardens,  waved  an  adieu  to  Belshazzar's  palace,  and  then 
rode  rapidly  to  Khan  Mohaweel,  where  we  rested  for 
two  hours.  At  4  p.m.  that  day,  we  reached  the  misera- 
ble Khan-el-Has\va,  where  personal  safety  compelled  us 
to  remain  for  the  night.  But  sleep  was  impossible.  At 
two  the  next  morning  I  called  the  party,  and  within  an 
hour  thereafter  we  were  on  our  way.  A  ti'ain  of  pack- 
donkeys  had  preceded  us,  but  we  soon  i:)assed  them  on 
the  road.  The  darkness  was  sensible,  and  it  was  not 
easy  to  keep  the  narrow  paths,  and  we  were  as  "  those 
that  watch  for  the  mornino;."  A  chillv  wind  was  blow- 
ing  from  the  south-east.  In  two  and  a  half  hours  we 
passed  Khan-el-Beer.  The  light  now  began  to  appear. 
The  stars  melted.  Jupiter  held  his  own  to  the  last. 
The  crescent  of  the  old  moon  rose  first ;  an  hour  later, 
the  sun  came  up.  The  only  cheering  object  around  us 
was  the  telegraph,  that  reminded  us  of  home,  and  of  the 
sublime  fact  that  I  could  send  a  telegram  from  old  Bab- 
ylon to  any  part  of  Christendom.  I  was,  however,  re- 
called from  the  pleasing  contemplation  by  the  indica- 
tions of  approaching  danger.  Our  soldiers  halted  ;  they 
shouted,  "  Keep  together  !"  In  a  moment,  as  if  they  had 
sprung  from  the  ground,  sixty  armed  Arabs  issued  from 
the  khan.  As  they  approached  us,  they  began  their  war- 
dance  to  the  music  of  a  wild  song.  Now  they  fenced  in 
mimic  warfxre;  now  they  marched  at  quick- step;  now 
they  clapped  their  hands,  and  yelled  like  demons.  They 
were  ready  for  mischief,  but  were  deterred  by  the  com- 


'■'''"lilii 


iw%  (^^  mil  'III rfl////i/'//"  /  dill' 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  183 

ing  daylight  and  the  brave  words  of  our  soldiers.  They 
proved  to  be  a  company  of  pilgrims  on  their  way  to  some 
distant  Moslem  shrine,  and  who  defray  the  expenses  of 
their  pilgrimage  by  plundering  caravans  and  unprotected 
travelers.  They  are  the  descendants  of  Ishmael,  "  whose 
hand  is  against  every  man,  and  every  man's  hand  against 
him."  They  are  the  freemen  of  the  desert  who  have 
never  been  enslaved.  They  were  the  neighbors  of  the 
Assyrians  and  Egyptians,  but  never  their  subjects.  Nei- 
ther Cyrus  nor  the  Parthians  reduced  them,  as  a  body,  to 
subjection.  Phoenicia,  Palestine,  and  Syria  were  taxed  by 
their  conquerors,  but  those  same  conquerors  did  not  tax 
the  Arabs.  Alexander  the  Great  overran  Asia,  but  the 
Arabs  took  no  notice  of  his  authority.  He  was  pro- 
voked, but  could  not  subdue  them.  Antigonus  made 
two  attempts  to  compel  them  to  submit  to  his  dictation, 
but  signally  failed  in  both.  Always  acting  like  a  free 
people,  they  were  friends  to-day,  and  enemies  to-morrow. 
The  Romans  desired,  but  never  succeeded,  to  make  Ara- 
bia a  Roman  province.  Pompey  and  Augustus  entered 
their  country  and  left  it  again.  Nor  did  Trajan  and  Se- 
verus  do  more.  But  under  their  prophet,  as  Saracens, 
they  were  the  masters  for  three  centuries  of  the  most 
important  portions  of  the  earth.  They  have  defied  Tar- 
tar, Mameluke,  and  Turk,  and  are  still  the  freemen  of 
the  desert* 

At  eight  o'clock  we  were  halfway.  The  hours  seemed 
long.  Many  were  on  the  road  coming  and  going.  We 
met  two  funeral  processions  on  the  desert.  The  body 
of  the  dead  was  resting  on  a  wooden  frame  placed  cross- 
wise on  a  mule:'  the  female  mourners  were  mounted  on 
donkeys;  the  men  followed  on  foot.     One  was  the  fu- 

*  Newton. 


134  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

neral  of  a  poor  peasant ;  tlie  other,  the  funeral  of  a  rich 
man,  whom  we  had  passed  when  on  our  way  to  IliDah. 
He  was  then  in  a  tahhteravan,  on  his  way  to  Bagdad  for 
his  health ;  he  was  now  on  his  way  to  the  grave. 

At  leuerth  the  domes  and  minarets  of  Bag-dad  were  in 
view.  Never  were  weary  travelers  happier  than  we. 
Wearily  we  crossed  the  long  bridge  of  boats  and  en- 
tered the  "Abode  of  Peace,"  where  a  cordial  reception 
awaited  us  in  the  hosj^itable  home  of  our  host,  and  where 
we  gave  expression  to  the  gratitude  of  our  hearts  to  Him 
whose  goodness  had  been  over  us  during  the  most  in- 
teresting and  perilous  journey  of  our  life. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  185 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Sail  on  the  Tigris. — Perilous  Situation. — Shrines  of  Kathimain. — Modes  of 
Traveling. — Making  a  Bargain. — Departure  from  Bagdad. — First  Night's 
Experience. — Half-way  House. — Belli  Abbass. — Adam's  Fleas. — Den  of 
Robbers. — Hills  of  Hamreen. — Beautiful  Flowers. — Karateppeh. — Storks, 
and  their  Habits. — Jebarah  Portrayed. — War  of  Words. — Walking  Qual- 
ities of  the  Arab. — Town  of  Kifri. — Turkish  Soldiers. — Day  of  Rest. — 
Storm  on  the  Desert. — Crossing  the  Dreaded  Dooz. — Dooz  Khurmuttee. 
— Changeless  East. — Conscripts. — Dandy  Officer. — Village  of  Tavok. — 
Singing  Dervish. — Robbers. — American  Songs. — City  of  Kerkook. — Trav- 
eling with  the  Pasha's  Wives. — -Excitement  in  the  Hills.^Altoon  Kupri. 
— Remarkable  Bridge. — Ancient  Arbela. — Battle  between  Darius  and  Al- 
exander the  Great. — Greater  Zab. — A  Night  with  the  Shepherds. — Hab- 
its and  Customs  of  the  Bedouins. — Eleventh  Day  Out. — Domes  of  Mosul, 
and  Gates  of  Nineveh. — Crossing  the  River. — Mine  Host. — Mr.  Rassam. — 
Splendid  Residence. — City  of  Mosul. — Mosques,  Churches,  and  Bazaars. — 
Easter-Sunday. — Elegant  Ladies. 

After  tiffin,  on  a  sunny  day  in  March,  we  made  an 
excursion  to  the  shrines  of  Kathimain  and  the  tomb  of 
Zobeida.  The  captain  of  the  English  gun-boat  Comet 
offered  one  of  his  large  boats  to  conv^ey  us  up  the  Tigris 
to  the  railway -station.  In  our  party  were  five  ladies, 
two  gentlemen,  three  children,  and  one  servant.  The 
boat  was  manned  with  four  oarsmen  and  a  coxswain. 
The  river  was  high,  the  current  strong,  and  the  boat 
heavily  loaded.  By  keeping  along  the  eastern  shore,  we 
escaped  the  full  force  of  the  powerful  current.  But  we 
had  to  pass  under  the  bridge,  through  a  narrow  passage, 
through  which  the  river  rushed  with  unwonted  force.  I 
had  watched  our  approach  to  the  point  of  entrance  with 
no  little  anxiety,  but  hoped  for  the  best.  Our  boatmen 
were  no  less  anxious.     It  required  all  their  strength  to 


186  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

pull  up  to  the  point,  but  the  counter  force  of  the  cur- 
rent was  too  much  for  them,  and,  dropping  their  oars, 
they  caught  hold  of  the  under  beams  of  the  bridge  and 
pulled  us  through.  But,  before  they  could  get  their 
oars  in  the  water  again,  the  tremendous  current  swept 
us  sidewise  as^ainst  one  of  the  boats  that  floated  the 
bridge,  and  we  were  at  the  mercy  of  the  maddened,  tu- 
multuous, rushing  river.  Apparently  there  was  no  hope 
for  us.  Some  of  the  ladies  screamed,  and  the  children 
cried  aloud.  A  watery  grave  opened  its  portals  to 
receive  us.  Our  boatmen  lost  their  presence  of  mind ; 
our  coxswain  trembled  with  fear;  our  end  had  come. 
The  people  crowded  the  bridge,  and  shouted  all  man- 
ner of  advice  to  our  terrified  seamen;  while  the  more 
thoughtful  got  into  their  small  boats  to  pick  us  up  after 
we  had  capsized.  It  was  an  awful  moment.  The  memo- 
ries of  a  life  came  rushing  through  the  mind.  God  only 
could  save  us.  Inspired  with  superhuman  strength,  our 
servant,  two  of  the  boatmen,  and  one  of  the  gentlemen 
seized  the  bridge,  and  held  fast  till  the  oars  were  placed 
in  the  water.  Then  came  the  struggle.  After  a  most 
determined  effort,  we  succeeded  in  gaining  on  the  cur- 
rent, and.  pulled  toward  the  shore.  How  the  seamen 
struggled,  sweat,  panted  for  breath  !  Had  one  failed,  we 
were  all  gone.  But  there  was  one  in  the  boat  whose 
presence  of  mind  did  not  forsake  her  for  a  moment. 
When  the  danger  was  most  imminent,  Mrs.  Holland  kept 
the  other  ladies  from  any  sudden  movement,  and  spoke 
"  brave  words "  to  the  coxswain,  who  shook  like  an  as- 
pen-leaf The  captain  of  the  Comet  had  been  watching 
us  through  his  glass,  and,  blaming  his  men  for  their  stu- 
pidity, he  punished  them  on  their  return.  By  a  bold 
dash  they  should  have  shot  through  the  narrow,  danger- 
ous passage-way  beneath  the  bridge;  and  this  he  com- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  189 

pelled  them  to  do,  by  way  of  discipline  for  the  future. 
While  I  thought  them  to  blame,  yet  they  had  worked 
so  hard,  and  I  was  so  grateful  to  the  kind  Providence 
that  had  saved  us,  that  I  interceded  for  their  pardon. 

At  the  landing,  we  chartered  the  inside  of  a  horse-rail- 
way car  for  Kathimain,  which  was  six  miles  to  the  north- 
west. The  top  of  the  car  was  crowded  with  natives,  who 
smoked,  chanted,  and  chatted,  to  their  amusement  and  to 
our  annoyance.  The  usual  fare  is  sixpence,  but  we  paid 
double  that,  for  the  privilege  of  having  the  inside  of  the 
car  to  ourselves.  This  is  the  first  railroad  built  in  South- 
ern Babylonia,  and  has  thus  far  proved  a  financial  suc- 
cess. The  contrast  between  traveling  by  rail  and  by 
camel,  horse,  or  donkey,  is  fully  appreciated  by  the  na- 
tives. The  cars  are  like  those  used  in  New  York,  with 
additional  seats  on  the  top.  The  track  is  laid  along  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  the  view  of  the  Tigris  and  its  green 
islands  was  exceedingly  picturesque.  The  town  of  Kath- 
imain is  small  and  filthy,  and  the  people  are  fanatical  to 
violence;  but  it  contains  a  shrine  most  sacred  to  the 
Sheeahs  of  the  Moslem  faith.  Here  is  the  tomb  of  Imaum 
Musa-el-Kathem,  the  great-great-grandson  of  the  ill-fated 
Husseyan,  the  second  son  of  Ali,  who  was  son-in-law  to 
Mohammed ;  and  beneath  the  same  mosque  is  the  tomb 
of  his  grandson,  Mohammed  Taki.  Both  fill  a  martyr's 
grave.  The  former  was  poisoned  by  Haroun-al-Raschid, 
and  the  latter  by  the  relatives  of  the  Caliph  Mamun. 
Over  their  tomb  is  a  grand  mosque,  surmounted  with 
two  domes  completely  covered  with  beaten  gold,  the  gift 
of  the  great  Nadir  Shah.  The  four  tall  and  graceful  min- 
arets, ornamented  with  colored  tiles  inlaid  on  their  sur- 
face, form,  with  the  golden  domes,  a  group  of  imposing 
splendor.  Tlie  exterior  of  the  w\alls  of  the  mosque  is 
covered  with  sayings  fi'om  the  Koran,  inlaid  in  mosaic 


190 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


work.  From  tbe  entrance  to  the  spacious  court  to  tlie 
grand  portal  of  the  mosque  is  a  tesselatecl  pavement ; 
and  around  this  court  a  bazaar  was  held,  furnished  with 
chaplets,  rosaries,  and  other  trinkets,  to  aid  the  faithful 
in  their  devotions.  The  narrow  streets  leading  to  the 
mosque  were  thronged  with  pilgrims  from  Thibet,  Cash- 
mere, Afghanistan,  and  Persia,  who  were  soldier-saints, 
and  as  ready  to  draw  their  splendid  swords  to  spread  their 


TOMBS   OP   KATHIMAIN. 


faith  as  were  their  fathers.  They  watched  our  movements 
with  a  hateful  eye,  and  made  remarks  calculated  to  pro- 
voke a  quarrel.  Theirs  is  a  militant,  but  not  a  triumph- 
ant, faith.  Their  weapons  are  carnal,  but  not  mighty. 
To  kill  a  Christian  is  the  most  acceptable  act  of  worsliip 
they  can  perform.  They  are  most  fanatical  and  violent 
when  on  a  religious  pilgrimage,  or  near  a  sacred  shrine. 
As  there  were  unmistakable  signs  of  an  outburst  of  their 
fanaticism,  we  deemed  it  the  better  2')art  of  valor  to  visit 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


191 


the  bazaars,  where  the  love  of  money  is  mightier  than 
the  love  of  religion,  and  where  a  Christian  feels  himself 
comparatively  safe,  even  among  fanatical  Moslems,  while 
he  has  money  to  spend. 

On  our  return,  we  passed  the  tomb  of  Zobeida,  the  fa- 
vorite wife  of  the  Caliph  Haroun-el-Raschid,  whose  name 


TOMB   OF   ZOBEIDA. 

recalls  the  tales  of  "The  Thousand  and  One  Nights."  This 
charming  woman  died  in  the  year  831  of  our  era,  and  was 
here  buried  with  every  demonstration  of  grief  character- 
istic of  the  Orient.  The  tomb  has  an  octao'onal  base, 
whereon  is  a  pointed  dome  seventy  feet  high,  the  inner 
surface  of  which  is  covered  Avith  small  concave  niches, 
which  form  the  Arabic  frieze.     Beneath  the  dome  lies 


102  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

the  beautiful  Zobeida,  and  near  her  is  the  body  of  Aje- 
shah,  wife  of  Hassan  Pasha,  who  died  at  a  subsequent 
period.  And  just  beyond  the  tomb,  we  passed  the  spot 
where  the  cruel  Tamerlane  erected  his  pyramids  of  hu- 
man skulls. 

Once  more  in  Bagdad,  it  required  nearly  a  week  to 
complete  the  needful  preparations  for  our  overland  jour- 
ney of  a  thousand  miles,  from  the  "City  of  the  Caliphs," 
via  Nineveh,  through  MesojDotamia,  across  Syria,  to  Is- 
kenderoon,  on  the  Mediterranean.  There  is  a  shorter 
route  to  the  sea,  which  is  aci'oss  the  desert,  and  by  way 
of  Damascus ;  and  there  is  a  longer  route,  which  includes 
Armenia,  and  terminates  at  Samsoon,  on  the  Black  Sea, 
Whichever  route  is  selected,  the  journey  is  performed  ei- 
ther by  caravan  or  by  post-horses,  and  the  dilference  be- 
tween the  two  consists  in  the  time  required  and  the  mon- 
ey demanded.  I  had  intended  to  take  the  desert  route 
to  Damascus,  a  distance  of  six  hundred  miles,  but  was 
dissuaded  therefrom  by  the  certainty  of  being  plundered 
by  the  Bedouins.  An  English  courier  leaves  Bagdad 
once  each  week  with  official  dispatches  and  the  ordinary 
mail,  which  he  delivers  at  Damascus,  to  be  for^varded  by 
diligence  to  Beirut,  and  thence  by  steamer  to  England, 
He  is  mounted  on  a  swift  dromedary,  travels  from  forty 
to  sixty  miles  a  day,  and  performs  the  journey  in  ten 
days.  In  taking  this  route,  the  traveler  must  reduce  his 
luggage  to  the  smallest  possible  compass,  and  must  be 
content  with  such  fare  as  he  can  carry  with  him,  as  noth- 
ing in  the  shape  of  food  can  be  procured  after  he  leaves 
Hit,  on  the  Euphrates ;  nor  will  he  find  shelter,  save  by 
chance,  under  the  hair-tent  of  some  Bedouin.  As  he  is 
constantly  liable  to  be  plundered,  he  must  take  with  him 
no  valuables  whatever.  There  is  no  fear  of  bodily  harm 
from  the  Arabs  when  no  resistance  is  offered.    The  most 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  193 

favorable  season  on  the  desert  is  spring  or  autumn.  Dur- 
ing the  winter,  when  pools  of  w^ater  are  frequent,  the 
stages  of  rest  may  be  multiplied ;  but  from  June  to  No- 
vember, a  supply  of  water  must  be  carried  for  two  inter- 
mediate stages.  If  the  traveler  has  no  luggage,  and  is 
unattended  by  guide  or  servant,  he  pays  fifty  dollars  in 
gold  for  the  use  of  a  dromedary,  and  flies  over  the  plains 
with  the  mail -courier  at  the  rate  of  sixty  miles  a  day. 
For  each  additional  dromedary,  for  guide,  servant,  or  lug- 
srag-e,  the  amount  will  be  about  fortv  dollars. 

The  other  routes  are  through  thickly  settled  sections 
of  Mesopotamia,  and  are  as  old  as  the  commerce  of  the 
world.  They  are  the  old  post- roads  of  the  east,  over 
which  the  couriers  fly  as  on  the  wings  of  the  wind.  If 
the  traveler  is  so  inclined,  and  is  at  home  in  the  saddle, 
he  can  travel  with  the  mail-carriers,  who  urge  on  their 
horses  to  the  toj)  of  their  speed,  and  who  have  frequent 
relays ;  or  he  may  proceed  only  one  stage  a  day,  and  oc- 
cupy as  many  days  as  it  suits  his  convenience.  Distance 
in  the  East  is  measured  by  the  hours,  and  not  by  the 
miles.  It  is  one  hundred  hours  from  Bagdad  to  Nine- 
veh ;  and  from  there  to  the  sea,  at  Iskenderoon,  it  is  two 
hundred  and  six  hours,  or  three  hundred  and  six  hours 
in  all.  From  Nineveh  to  Samsoon,  on  the  Black  Sea,  it 
is  two  hundred  and  thirty-four  hours ;  or  to  Scutari,  on 
the  Bosphorus,  it  is  three  hundred  and  seventy-six  hours. 
The  hour  is  generally  considered  the  equivalent  of  three 
miles.  But  this  is  a  rule  with  a  sliding  scale.  Where 
the  road  is  smooth  and  level,  the  hour  is  equal  to  from 
four  to  five  miles ;  where  rough  and  mountainous,  from 
two  to  two  and  a  half  miles.  For  the  camel,  the  donkey, 
and  the  man,  it  rarely  exceeds  two  miles  and  a  half;  but 
for  the  horse,  it  is  equivalent  to  an  additional  mile. 

The  post -routes  are  merely  tracks,  impracticable  for 

13 


194  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

wheels,  and  so  difficult  a,t  the  mountain-passes  as  to  ne- 
cessitate a  slow  walking  pace.  The  Turkish  post-stations, 
or  rest-houses,  are  hovels,  gloomy  and  filthy,  and  occasion- 
ally the  stable  is  the  only  shelter  for  the  traveler.  The 
tourist  must  not  expect  to  find  on  any  part  of  the  jour- 
ney a  first-class  hotel,  or  a  second-class  inn,  or  a  third-class 
tavern.  Nor  will  he  find  a  lunch-room,  or  restaurant,  or 
saloon  of  any  description  known  to  civilized  man.  The 
Turkish  cofi:ee-houses  are  not  for  the  entertainment  of 
travelers,  but  are  resorts  frequented  by  smokers,  gam- 
blers, and  idlers.  At  each  stopping-place  there  is  a  cara- 
vansary for  the  accommodation  of  man  and  beast;  and 
for  the  privilege  of  resting  therein  all  night  a  small  sum 
is  given  to  the  custodian.  At  nearly  all  these  caravan- 
saries there  are  hucksters,  who  sell  eggs  and  milk,  fruit 
and  fowls,  and  a  coarse  bread,  made  of  unbolted  floui', 
and  formed  in  thin  cakes,  two  feet  in  diameter. 

Traveling  with  the  post  is  the  cheaper.  The  hire  of  a 
post-horse  is  about  three  and  a  half  piastres  per  hour,  or 
soraethins;  less  than  fifteen  cents.  But  whether  the  num- 
ber  of  horses  eno-ao-ed  be  one  or  more,  the  traveler  must 
be  accompanied  by  a  driver^  for  whose  services,  beyond 
the  hire  of  his  horse,  there  is  no  charge,  save  in  the  form 
of  the  customary  baksheesh  of  from  twelve  to  twenty- 
four  cents  per  stage.  When  the  country  is  disturbed, 
horsemen,  stationed  along  the  line,  escort  the  post  or  trav- 
elers. Their  services  are  gratuitous ;  but  their  attend- 
ance necessitates  a  slower  speed,  and  a  small  gratuity  is 
expected  and  generally  given. 

In  traveling  by  caravan,  the  saddle-horses  and  bag- 
gage-mules are  engaged  for  the  whole  journey,  and  at  a 
price  on  wdiich  their  owner  and  the  traveler  can  mutual- 
ly agree.  As  in  the  East  every  thing  is  done  by  proxy, 
so,  in  ari'anging  for  a  tour,  the  preliminary  bargain  is 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  195 

made  throuo;h  "  a  ffo-between,"  who  demands  a  commis- 
sioii  from  the  party  employed,  and  expects  a  present  from 
the  party  who  employs.  When  it  was  known  in  Bag- 
dad that  we  intended  to  make  an  overland  tour  to  the 
sea  by  caravan,  a  large,  well-dressed  Oriental,  with  an  ear- 
nest, business-like  air,  called  to  infoi-m  us  that  he  knew 
just  what  we  needed  for  the  journey,  and  could  recom- 
mend good  horses,  mules,  and  attendants.  As  we  had 
had  a  very  sore  experience  in  the  Arab  saddle  to  Bab- 
ylon and  return,  we  had  determined  to  get  a  tuMtera- 
van  for  our  "  elect  lady,"  and  Miajaivalis  for  ourselves, 
toojether  with  two  saddle-horses  for  a  chano;e.  The  tuhli- 
teravan  is  not  unlike  a  palanquin,  high  enough  for  a  per- 
son to  sit  in,  long  enough  for  a  person  to  lie  down  in, 
with  glass  windows,  and  wooden  shades  at  the  ends  and 
sides,  with  a  double  door  on  either  side,  and  with  shafts 
in  front  and  shafts  behind.  It  is  borne  by  two  mules 
or  horses,  and  is  the  most  pleasant  mode  of  conveyance 
in  the  East.  It  has  its  drawbacks,  as  when  the  mules 
stumble,  or  shake  themselves,  or  when,  in  crossing  a 
ditch,  the  front  mule  leaps  and  the  hind  mule  does  not 
leap,  causing  a  very  serious  drawback  to  the  occupant. 
But  on  a  smooth  and  level  road  the  motion  is  agreeable ; 
and  in  a  well-made  titkhteravan  the  traveler  is  protected 
from  the  rain  and  the  sun.  It  is  the  aristocratic  mode 
of  traveling  among  the  Orientals,  and  is  a  luxury  in- 
dulged in  only  by  the  rich  and  the  ladies  of  a  pasha's 
harem. 

The  Miajaivalh  is  far  more  democratic,  less  expensive, 
and  less  comfortable.  A  pair  of  hhajawahs  resemble  a 
pair  of  pannier-baskets  carried  on  the  back  of  a  horse  or 
a  mule.  The  cheaper  kind  are  simply  a  pair  of  strong 
wooden  boxes,  each  large  enough  to  accommodate  an 
adult  person  ;  but  the  better  kind  are  covered  with  an 


196 


THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 


A   KHAJAWAH. 


awning  of  oil-cloth,  supported  by  a^ light  frame-work  of 
wood,  with  curtains  of  cotton  cloth  on  the  back  and  sides, 
and  in  appearance  resemble  a  large -sized  dog -kennel. 
They  are  united  by  a  strong  band  of  leather,  and  so 
placed  on  the  mule  as  to  balance  each  other.  A  girdle 
is  then  passed  under  the  animal,  which  is  drawn  suffi- 
ciently tight  to  hold  the  Jcliajawalis  in  their  place.  When 
all  is  ready,  you  mount  by  means  of  a  ladder,  and  sit  on 
a  matting  of  straw.  You  are  required  to  sit  on  the  side 
next  the  animal,  to  keep  your  legs  well  u}),  or  sit  a  la 
tunjiie.  The  motion  is  not  pleasant,  yet  the  fatigue  is 
less  than  on  horseback.  But  you  are  constantly  liable 
to  mishaps,  as  when,  in  a  moment  of  forgetful ness,  your 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  197 

companion  leaps  out  of  the  other  side,  or  the  mule  stum- 
bles, or,  in  coming  to  a  ditch,  the  mule  leaps,  and  leaves 
you  and  the  Miajavxihs  on  this  side  of  Jordan.  Occa- 
sionally, tuMiteravans  and  hhajatvahs  can  be  hired  for  a 
journey,  but  we  are  compelled  to  purchase.  Our  Ori- 
ental "  go-between"  informed  us  that  a  tulchteravan  would 
cost  fifty  dollars  in  gold,  would  require  two  mules,  three 
attendants,  and  would  accommodate  but  one  person ; 
while  a  pair  of  hhajawahs  would  cost  twenty- five  dol- 
lars, would  require  but  one  mule,  and  would  accommo- 
date two  persons.  Khajawahs  were,  therefore,  oi'dered. 
He  then  brought  to  our  lodgings  Hadji  Jebarah,  the 
owner  of  a  hundred  mules,  valued  at  twenty  thousand 
dollars,  which  constituted  him  a' rich  man  in  the  estima- 
tion of  his  neighbors.  A  single  glance  at  his  strongly 
marked  features  convinced  me  that  Jebarah  was  a  char- 
acter, and  so  he  proved  himself  to  be.  He  was  elegant- 
ly attired,  and  as  affixble  as  a  Chesterfield.  He  swore  by 
his  right  eye,  by  his  beard,  by  the  crown  of  his  head,  that 
he  would  deal  justly  by  us,  and  would  prove  true  to  the 
last.  When  pronouncing  such  solemn  asseverations,  he 
would  close  his  eyes,  clasp  his  hands,  and  sigh  gently  as 
a  saint  in  prayer.  He  agreed  to  furnish  three  mules  and 
two  saddle-horses,  and  take  us  to  Aleppo  for  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  dollars  in  gold.  He  was  to  accompany 
us,  and  be  attended  by  a  servant.  The  contract  was 
drawn  in  the  English  consulate ;  and  by  its  terms  we 
were  to  advance  seventy -five  dollars,  and  pay  the  bal- 
ance at  the  end  of  the  journey.  In  our  verbal  agree- 
ment, Jebarah  was  to  furnish  three  mules  and  two  horses, 
but  in  the  contract  it  was  specified  that  we  were  to  pa}' 
for  double  the  number.  This  seemed  like  sharp  practice, 
and  we  denuirred.  It  was,  however,  an  Eastern  custom, 
and  there  was  no  alternative.     The  object  of  the  custom 


198  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

is  to  secure  the  owner  of  the  animals  against  loss  if  a 
mule  or  horse  dies,  and  is  a  modest  way  to  get  a  double 
price  for  the  services  rendered. 

Having  completed  our  contract  with  Jebarah  and 
advanced  him  fifteen  pounds,  we  had  to  employ  two 
drivers,  a  dragoman,  and  purchase  the  necessary  outfit 
for  the  journey.  Our  "  go-between  "  Oi'iental  brought  us 
two  Arabs  of  Bagdad,  athletic,  familiar  with  the  road, 
and  to  whom  we  became  very  much  attached.  One  was 
Hadji  Flash,  and  the  other  was  Hadji  Merridj.  They 
were  to  lead  the  mules  which  carried  the  Ichajawahs, 
and  each  was  to  receive  forty-five  dollars  in  gold  for  the 
tour.  It  was  not,  however,  so  easy  to  secure  a  good  drag- 
oman, and  we  were  obliged  to  take  Fatoheh,  a  Chaldean 
Christian,  a  native  of  Bagdad,  who  spoke  bad  English, 
who  had  high  notions  of  an  American's  wealth,  who  de- 
manded three  dollars  per  day,  a  horse  to  ride,  and  all  in- 
cidental expenses  paid,  but  who  was  neither  remarkable 
as  a  cook  nor  tidy  as  a  servant.  But  he  knew  the  road, 
was  a  man  of  courage,  and  did  us  good  service.  To  him 
was  intrusted  the  purchase  of  our'  outfit,  such  as  cooking- 
utensils,  table- service,  bedding,  and  the  provisions  not 
procurable  on  the  road.  But  we  failed  to  procure  tents, 
which  proved  a  serious  drawback  to  the  comfort  and 
pleasure  of  our  tour.  At  our  request,  the  English  con- 
sul-general commanded  his  cawas,  Ashur,  to  accompany 
us,  whose  business  it  was  to  call  upon  the  governor  or 
military  commander  of  each  town,  present  our  passports, 
and  secure  whatever  military  escort  might  be  required. 
We  were  to  furnish  him  with  a  saddle-horse,  defray  his 
incidental  expenses,  and  make  him  the  customary  present. 

Monday,  March  23d,  dawned  cold  and  cloud3^  At  6 
A.M.  all  was  ready.  With  sincere  regrets  we  took  leave 
of  our  generous  and  hospitable  friends.     Mrs.  Newman 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  199 

and  Mr.  Collins  occupied  one  pair  of  hhajaioaJis,  and  pre- 
sented a  picture  worthy  a  Nast.  Fatoheh  and  Asliur 
were  mounted;  the  baggage  mules  were  loaded;  the  sig- 
nal was  given,  and  slowly  we  passed  through  the  nar- 
row streets  of  Bagdad,  followed  by  a  crowd  curious  to 
see  us  start.  When  we  had  passed  the  guard  at  the 
north-east  gate,  we  halted,  and  a  novel  scene  occurred. 
The  hour  had  come  for  the  distribution  of  presents  to 
propitiate  the  Lord  for  a  prosperous  journey.  Our  "  go- 
between  "  Oriental  was  there  in  smiling  expectation  ;  the 
cawas  of  the  British  consulate,  who  desired  to  accom- 
pany us,  but  was  not  permitted,  was  there,  bland  and  at- 
tentive, assured  that  his  desire  would  be  rewarded ;  those 
from  whom  we  had  made  our  purchases  were  there,  feel- 
ing sure  that  they  deserved  a  parting  present ;  and  even 
those  of  whom  we  had  asked  a  question  as  to  the  road 
or  the  prospect  of  the  weather  expected  a  backsheesh. 
Most  of  them  received  a  token  of  our  regard ;  and  then 
came  the  parting  scene  between  those  who  were  going 
with  us  and  the  friends  tliey  left  behind.  The  men 
embraced  each  other ;  they  fell  upon  each  other's  neck ; 
they  kissed  one  another  and  wept  aloud,  sorrowing  most 
of  all  that  they  should  see  each  other  no  more. 

It  was  seven  o'clock  when  we  left  the  old  brick  gate- 
way of  Bagdad  for  an  overland  journey  of  a  thousand 
miles.  The  attempt  was  bold,  and  not  without  its  per- 
ils. For  at  least  twelve  days,  our  only  companions  were 
to  be  the  Arabs  of  our  caravan,  not  one  of  whom  we  had 
ever  seen  or  known  before,  and  whose  only  attachment 
to  us  must  spring  from  the  hope  of  future  reward.  We 
were  to  sleep  where  we  could  find  shelter,  and  eat  what 
we  could  buy  of  the  natives.  Yet  there  is  a  sublime 
reality  in  the  faith  that  binds  man  to  man,  and  strangers 
are  made  friends  })y  a  common  cause.     The  men  whom 


200  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

we  had  employed  gained  a  living  by  the  transportation 
of  travelers,  and  the  selfishness  of  business  would  prompt 
them  to  be  true  to  us.  For  personal  safety,  for  kind  at- 
tentions, for  a  prosperous  journey,  we  felt  we  must  trust 
in  the  goodness  of  Plim  who  is  high  over  all,  and  to  the 
display  of  discretion,  courage,  and  kindness,  which  never 
fail  to  control  and  attract  others.  It  required  a  higher 
faith,  a  loftier  moral  nature,  an  intenser  enthusiasm  for  a 
lady  to  essay  the  tour,  especially  so  as  Mrs.  Newman 
was  the  first  American  lady  who  had  attempted  the  jour- 
ney. But  she  dared  to  do  whatever  became  a  woman, 
and  was  rewarded  with  the  honor  of  being  the  pioneer 
tourist  of  her  sex  through  the  localities  which  were  the 
earliest  abodes  of  civilization,  and  which  are  consecrated 
by  the  most  sacred  associations. 

For  an  hour  and  a  half,  the  two  gilded  domes  and 
four  stately  minarets  of  Kathimain  were  seen  amidst  the 
palm -groves  west  of  the  Tigris,  while  on  our  right  the 
green  fields  of  grain  and  pastui'e  stretched  far  away  to 
the  east.  Soldiers  on  horseback,  merchants  on  camels, 
pilgrims  on  mules,  peasants  on  foot,  were  on  their  way  to 
the  city,  and  our  presence  on  the  road  was  so  novel  as  to 
prompt  them  to  inquire  whither  we  were  going.  Most 
of  them  bade  us  godspeed,  while  others  passed  on  in  si- 
lence. No  one  in  our  party  felt  inclined  to  converse. 
Each  one  was  thousfhtful  of  the  morrow.  We  had  sev- 
ered  the  last  link  that  connected  us  with  civilization. 
We  wei'e  strangers  in  a  strange  land.  The  leaden  skies 
imparted  seriousness  to  the  mind,  and  the  chilly  air  cool- 
ed the  ardor  of  our  emotions.  Our  mode  of  conveyance 
was  altogether  new.  It  requires  time  to  become  accus- 
tomed to  the  Miajawah,  and  the  longer  you  ride  the  less 
accustomed  you  become.  The  hours  passed  drearily. 
At  noon  we   stopped  near   a   small   mud  village,  and 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


201 


lunched.  A  horse  auction  was  being  lield  near  the 
place,  and  Jebarah,  with  an  eye  to  business,  wished  to 
i-emain  all  night ;  but  a  sharp  refusal  was  sufficient  to 
impress  him  that  he  was  subject  to  authority.  To  avoid 
the  marshes  and  swollen  streams  along  tlie  Tigris,  we 
were  compelled  to  make  a  detour  eastward ;  and  during 
the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  river  Shirnun,  deep  and 


INTEHIOR    OF    A    KHAN. 


rapid,  with  banks  steep  and  high.  And  that  niglit,  after 
a  ride  of  nine  hours,  we  slept  in  the  khan  Bar  Goobbah, 
two  miles  from  the  village  of  Yengejee.  We  had  thus 
compressed  two  days  into  one.  The  first  stage  is  put 
down  in  the  itineraries  as  seven  hours  to  Jedideh,  and 
the  second  as  five  hours  to  Yengejee;  but  we  had  made 
the  distance  in  less  than  ten  hours.     We  were  quartered 


202  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

for  the  niglit  in  a  gloomy  alcove  of  an  old  khan,  but  ac- 
cepted it  as  part  of  the  journey,  and  did  not  complain. 
The  two  soldiers  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Bagdad 
were  here  dismissed,  with  a  present  of  ten  piastres,  and, 
on  leaving  the  khan,  stole  Fatoheh's  saddle-bags,  which 
contained  his  clothes  and  our  candles.  It  was  a  loss  to 
him  and  an  inconvenience  to  us.  But  Turkish  soldiers 
are  neither  honest  nor  honorable.  They  are  forced  into 
the  service.  Their  pay  is  nothing.  They  believe  in 
blood  and  booty.  They  are  quartered  on  the  people, 
and  appropriate  to  themselves  whatever  comes  within 
their  reach. 

The  morning  skies  Avere  brighter,  and  the  air  warmer 
than  on  the  previous  day.  At  6  a.m.  we  were  en  route  for 
Delli  Abbass,  ten  hours,  or  thirty  miles,  distant.  About 
nine  o'clock,  we  met  six  mounted  soldiers,  in  charsre  of 
robbers  to  be  taken  to  Bagdad  for  trial  and  punishment. 
The  thieves  had  plundered  a  caravan,  but  had  been 
caught  with  their  booty.  Each  robber  was  fastened  to 
a  horseman  by  a  long,  strong  cord,  and,  with  pinioned 
hands,  was  compelled  to  walk  to  his  doom. 

Beyond,  we  met  shepherds  leading  their  ilocks  to  past- 
ure, and  trains  of  donkeys  loaded  with  the  oranges  and 
dates  of  Ba2:dad  for  the  northern  and  inland  towns.  An 
hour  later,  we  came  to  a  small  village  with  a  large  khan, 
which  our  muleteer  called  the  "half-way  house;"  but  it 
was  like  the  Irishman's  wall,  which  was  two  feet  high 
and  four  feet  wide,  and  when  he  turned  it  over  it  was 
two  feet  higher  than  before.  We  came  the  first  half  in 
four  hours,  but  it  required  seven  hours  of  hard  riding  to 
reach  the  end  of  the  second  half  The  "  half-way  house" 
had  excited  our  expectation  of  an  early  arrival  at  the 
end  of  our  day's  journey,  but  when  we  found  the  second 
half  was  twice  as  long  as  the  first  half,  the  hours  wore 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  203 

wearily  away.  It  was  not  till  5  p.m.  that  we  passed 
l)eneath  the  old,  smoked  arched  portal  of  the  khan  at 
Delli  Abbass,  and  w^ere  quartered  for  the  night  in  an 
arched  vault  with  a  wooden  door  and  no  windo^v.  A 
warm  dinner  of  chicken -soup,  roast  mutton,  boiled  rice, 
sweet  milk,  nuts,  and  fruits,  with  Albert  crackers  and 
Arab  bread,  gave  good  cheer  to  the  festive  board,  and 
caused  us  to  forget  for  the  while  that  we  were  to  sleep 
with  the  beasts  of  the  stall.  Other  caravans  arrived  later, 
and  the  braying  of  the  unloaded  ass,  and  the  guttural 
clatter  of  the  driver,  made  harsh  music  on  the  dull  ear  of 
night.  But  provender  for  the  ass  and  tobacco  for  the 
Arab  lulled  the  discordant  sounds,  and  man  and  beast 
were  soon  silent  in  sleep.  But  "  sleep  that  knits  up  the 
ravel'd  sleeve  of  care  "  came  not  to  us.  So  painful  was 
the  biting  of  the  fleas  that  I  left  the  doleful  place,  and 
sought  relief  in  the  chilly  air  of  night.  They,  however, 
awaited  my  return,  and  covered  me  as  soon  as  I  had 
stretched  myself  on  the  stone  floor.  They  are  the  pest 
of  the  East,  and  fill  the  land.  The  inhabitants  are  so 
accustomed  to  them  that  the  insects  do  not  bite  them,  or 
they  are  so  inured  to  their  attacks  that  the  bites  are  not 
felt.  But  not  so  with  travelers  from  the  West,  who  suf- 
fer from  their  attacks  the  greatest  pain  and  annoyance. 
When  all  hope  of  relief  was  gone,  I  devoted  the  sleepless 
hours  to  a  soliloquy  on  the  benevolence  and  malevolence 
of  creation.  On  this  occasion  I  had  abundant  proof  of 
the  latter;  and  as  I  had  just  come  from  the  Garden  of 
Eden,  I  wondered  if  Adam  had  been  troubled  with  fleas 
in  paradise.  It  may  be  fair  to  suppose  that  they  had  oth- 
er food  than  human.  As  creation  is  from  the  beo:in- 
ning,  w^ithout  additions  or  deductions,  it  is  reasonable  to 
suppose  their  existence  in  the  time  of  Adam,  as  the  paws, 
jaws,  and  appetite  of  the  lion,  tiger,  and  hyena  were  the 


204  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

same  then  as  they  are  now.  It  was,  therefore,  some  re- 
lief to  conclude  that  the  ileas  of  Delli  Abbass  were  not  a 
recent  creation  for  our  torment,  but  could  boast  of  a  ven- 
erable ancestry,  more  ancient  than  Father  Adam,  And 
I  was  almost  consoled  to  sleep  by  Urquhart's  suggestion, 
"  that  these  creatures  act  as  a  wholesome  irritant  to  the 
skin,  and  that  the  last  two  mouthfuls  of  every  meal  are 
for  the  Vjenefit  of  the  fleas." 

The  rosy  light  of  a  new  day  was  never  more  welcome. 
Near  the  khan  flo^ved  the  river,  whose  banks  we  followed 
yesterday.  It  is  called  by  Layard,  Shirnun,  and  is  prob- 
ably the  Tornadotum  of  Pliny,  the  Physcus  of  Xenophon, 
and  the  Gyndes  of  Herodotus.  If  the  latter,  it  is  the 
same  river  whose  mouth  Cyrus  divided  into  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty  channels,  to  avenge  himself  for  the  death 
of  one  of  the  sacred  horses,  which  was  carried  away  by 
the  stream,  in  the  attempt  to  cross  it,  when  Cyrus  was 
marching  against  Babylon.  Around  the  khan  and  on 
the  margin  of  the  river  were  the  homes  of  the  villagers, 
whose  complexion,  features,  language,  and  manners  indi- 
cated that  they  w^ere  of  the  purest  Bedouin  blood,  rather 
than  that  of  the  Fellah,  or  cultivating,  class.  Their  flocks 
were  large  and  in  good  condition,  and  from  them  we  ob- 
tained supplies  for  the  day  before  us. 

We  had  started  at  5  a.m.,  and  for  an  hour  we  were  in 
the  marshes,  wading  through  water  knee-deep,  and  through 
a  tall  thick  grass,  which  rendered  locomotion  difiicult. 
But  once  out  of  the  marshes,  we  were  thrilled  with  de- 
light by  the  glorious  landscape  around  ns.  The  vast 
pasture -fields  were  covered  with  flocks  and  herds,  and 
the  shepherds  were  chanting  some  pastoral  lay.  The 
long,  low  hills  of  Hamreen  stretched  far  away  to  the 
north-east,  while  l)eyond  were  the  Luristan  Mountains, 
covered  with  snow  for  many  miles,  and  their  higher  peaks 


BABYLON  AND  is^NEVEH.  205 

touching  the  clouds.  On  a  beautiful  mound,  carpeted 
with  grass  and  perfumed  with  flowers,  we  rested  for  the 
morning  meal,  and  sung  with  the  birds,  and  laughed  with 
joy  awakened  by  beautiful  nature. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  khan  where  we  had  breakfasted, 
we  entered  the  hills  of  Hamreen,  composed  of  sand,  grav- 
el, and  stone.  They  cross  the  road  at  right  angles,  and 
extend  widely  over  the  plain.  They  are  shapeless,  and 
without  a  "  head."  They  describe  a  vast  irregular  circu- 
lar area.  Deep  paths  have  been  worn  by  the  constant 
passage  of  animals,  and  are  dangerous  except  to  sure- 
footed beasts.  They  are  infested  with  robbers,  and  dur- 
ing the  day  we  passed  the  spot  where,  yesterday,  a  cara- 
van of  donkeys,  loaded  Avith  dates,  had  been  plundered ; 
and  we  found  the  soldiers  in  pursuit  of  the  thieves.  We 
reached  the  summit  in  two  hours,  and  before  us  lay  a  no- 
ble pasture  plain  dotted  with  the  black  tents  of  Bedouin 
shepherds.  Our  guides  would  not  allow  us  to  remain  to 
enjoy  the  view,  lest  from  behind  some  rugged  hill  might 
come  forth  the  dreaded  robbers.  Our  descent  was  rapid 
to  the  plains  below,  covered  with  white,  pink,  and  yellow 
flowers,  some  of  which  resembled  the  hyacinth.  I  was 
only  too  glad  to  escape  from  my  cramped  position  in  the 
Miajaivali,  to  enjoy  an  hour's  walk  among  the  "flowers 
of  the  field."  Later  in  the  afternoon,  w^e  crossed  a  brick 
bridge  spanning  the  river  Narreen,  which  had  cut  a  deep 
channel  in  the  soft  soil,  and  left  on  either  side  high,  per- 
pendicular banks.  On  our  right  was  an  old  khan,  sur- 
rounded by  a  fe\v  huts,  and  near  them  peasant-women 
Avere  gathering  brush-wood,  who  gazed  with  rapt  won- 
der on  our"  elect  lady."  Onward  we  rode  through  fields 
of  grain  and  grass,  and  at  half-past  3  p.m.,  after  ten  and  a 
half  hours  on  the  road,  we  entered  the  villao-e  of  Kara- 
teppeh.     There  we  found  a  new,  clean  khan,  and  near  it 


206  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

a  native  cafe,  in  wliicli  were  large  wooden  settees,  wliicli 
we  hired  for  the  niglit  to  sleep  on.  Immediately  after 
onr  arrival,  a  blind  man  was  led  in,  who  requested  a 
prescription  for  his  eyes.  He  had  heard  of  our  coming, 
and  had  fondly  hoped  that  we  could  restore  his  lost  vis- 
ion. The  Arabs  believe  that  the  people  of  the  West 
have  a  cure  for  every  disease,  and  they  pay  Divine  hon- 
ors to  the  "  medicine-man."  We  dismissed  the  poor  fel- 
low with  a  present,  which  was  some  com^^ensation  for 
his  sad  disajipointment. 

After  a  frugal  repast,  w^e  strolled  through  the  small 
village  of  a  hundred  huts,  and  were  watched  with  evi- 
dent curiosity  by  groups  of  women  and  children  who 
had  coni2:reo;ated  to  see  the  strano:ers.  On  the  corners 
of  the  flat-roofed  houses  the  storks  had  mated,  and  had 
built  their  nests.  They  are  regarded  with  affection  and 
superstition  by  the  natives.  Their  return  is  always  wel- 
comed as  a  sign  of  continued  good  fortune;  and,  notwith- 
standing the  great  distances  over  which  they  pass,  and 
the  many  lands  in  which  they  sojourn,  yet  they  regular- 
ly return  to  their  nest  when  the  breeding  season  comes 
round.  And  when  one  of  a  pair  dies,  the  survivor  finds 
another  mate,  and  the  same  home  is  kept  up  by  succes- 
sive generations  of  storks,  much  as  among  men  the  same 
ancestral  mansion  is  inhabited  by  a  series  of  members  of 
the  same  family.  The  Arabs  regard  them  with  affection, 
as  the  storks  devour  reptiles,  worms,  grubs,  and  annoying 
insects.  When  they  settle  upon  a  tract  of  ground,  the 
storks  divide  it  among  themselves  in  a  very  systematic 
manner,  spread  themselves  over  it  with  wonderful  regu- 
larity, and  each  bird  appears  to  take  possession  of  a  defi- 
nite amount  of  ground,  and  seems  to  be  under  contract 
to  keep  it  clear  of  all  sorts  of  vermin.  They  build  their 
nests  on  high  rocks,  in  craggy  trees,  among  old  ruins,  on 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  207 

the  top  of  a  chimney,  on  the  dome  of  a  mosque,  on  the 
corners  of  a  human  habitation,  but  generally  on  a  firm 
foundation,  and  the  more  elevated  the  better.  Their 
nests  are  very  large  and  heavy,  and  are  constructed  of 
reeds,  sticks,  and  the  smaller  branches  of  trees,  arranged 
in  a  circle,  with  a  depression  in  the  centre,  wherein  the 
eggs  are  laid.  We  passed  near  one  nest  in  which  the  fe- 
male bird  was  brooding,  and  near  it  the  male  bird,  stand- 
ing on  one  leg,  was  keeping  guard,  and  resented  our  ap- 
proach. Opposite  where  we  were  w^as  a  mosque,  and  on 
its  dome  two  storks  had  built  their  nest  of  brush-wood. 
During  their  absence  for  food,  the  mollah  of  the  mosque 
destroyed  the  nest.  On  their  return,  the  birds  seemed 
surprised, but  immediately  regathered  the  scattered  wood, 
and  commenced  to  rebuild  their  nest.  The  mollah  thought 
the  place  too  holy  for  such  a  purpose,  and  again  scattered 
the  frao-ments  to  the  winds ;  but  the  birds  thouo;ht  the 
spot  none  too  good  to  lay  their  eggs  and  rear  their  brood. 
Once  more  they  commenced  to  construct  their  nest.  Each 
vied  with  the  other,  and  with  skill  and  taste  they  placed 
the  pieces,  first  this  way,  and  then  that ;  but,  while  ab- 
sent for  more  material,  the  strong  wind  had  blown  away 
the  pieces  that  had  been  laid.  This  was  a  new  enemy 
with  which  to  contend,  and  for  a  while  the  birds  appeared 
in  deep  thought.  In  a  moment,  however,  they  seemed  to 
have  decided  how  to  prevent  the  destructive  effects  of 
the  wind.  Both  descended  to  the  ground,  and  soon  re- 
turned with  their  building  materials,  which  were  careful- 
ly laid  on  the  highest  part  of  the  dome,  and  then  one  of 
the  birds  remained,  and  placed  its  broad  feet  upon  what 
had  been  placed  in  order,  while  the  other  Ijird  continued 
to  bring  more  material  until  the  nest  was  completed. 
Having  observed  these  interesting  characteristics,  I  was 
prepared  to  believe  what  some  naturalists  say,  "that  the 


208  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

storks  are  remarkable  for  their  filial  piety ;  that,  iu  turn, 
they  support  their  parents  io  old  age ;  that  they  allow 
them  to  rest  their  necks  on  their  bodies  durinij:  mifrra- 
tion ;  and  that,  when  their  parents  are  tired,  the  young 
ones  carry  them  on  their  backs." 

On  our  return  to  the  khan,  we  had  another  instance 
of  the  avarice  of  the  Arab.  We  had  paid  Jebarah  sev- 
enty-five dollars  in  advance,  and  were  to  pay  him  the 
balance  at  the  end  of  the  journey.  He  had  left  at  home 
what  we  had  given  him,  where  it  was  doubtless  drawing 
good  interest,  and  trusted  to  our  good -nature  to  make 
him  further  advances  to  buy  provender  for  his  animals 
and  food  for  himself  He  now  asked  ten  dollars  of  the 
forty -five  due  him  when  his  work  was  done.  He  evi- 
dently was  embarrassed  by  the  stern  manner  with  which 
we  received  his  request,  and  began  to  realize  that  we  re- 
garded contracts  as  sacred  and  binding.  But  this  inci- 
dent was  in  keeping  with  his  character.  He  had  agreed 
to  furnish"  us  with  three  mules  and  two  horses;  but, 
when  the  morning  to  start  came,  he  brought  one  horse 
and  four  mules.  He  had  promised  to  provide  two  men 
to  attend  us,  but  came  himself,  and  brought  his  son,  a 
boy  ten  years  old.  He  assured  us  of  speed,  but,  when 
on  the  road,  requested  the  muleteers  to  go  slowly.  To 
us  he  was  bland  as  a  saint,  but  to  the  men  he  was  pas- 
sionate as  a  savage.  He  was  a  Moslem  of  the  strictest 
sect,  and  chose  the  most  public  and  conspicuous  places 
to  offer  his  prayers,  until  two  almost  murderous  quarrels 
with  members  of  our  caravan,  when  he  seemed  ashamed 
of  his  conduct,  and  ceased  his  prayers.  Although  Aral) 
was  he,  yet  Hadji  Jebarah  had  some  good  qualities.  He 
was  polite,  attentive,  and  obliging  to  his  superiors,  and 
liis  courage  was  greatest  wlien  the  danger  was  most  im- 
minent. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  209 

A  kind  Providence  had  given  us  another  delightful 
day.  We  were  up  at  4  a.m.,  and  in  less  than  an  hour 
thereafter  we  were  on  our  way  to  Kifri,  twenty-one  miles 
to  the  north.  We  wandered  over  the  hills  and  through 
rich  fields,  blooming  with  beautiful  flowers.  On  either 
hand  were  the  black  tents  of  the  Bedouin  shepherds, 
surrounded  with  their  herds  and  flocks.  We  had  over- 
taken a  train  of  donkeys  loaded  with  Bagdad  dates, 
which  the  shepherds  halted,  and  seemed  ready  to  buy  or 
steal,  as  opportunity  favored.  We  sto]3ped  for  breakfast 
on  a  hill-side,  where  the  grass  was  luxuriant,  and  the  wa- 
ter cool  and  sweet.  But  the  quiet  of  the  scene  was  dis- 
turbed by  a  war  of  words  between  Jebarah  and  Hadji 
Merridj.  The  latter  had  driven  his  mule  too  fast,  and 
was  requested  to  go  more  slowly.  But  Hadji  Merridj 
thought  that  the  mule  could  walk  as  fast  as  he  could, 
and  he  therefore  resented  the  rebuke.  He  was  a  spirited 
fellow,  and  could  not  brook  an  insult.  Our  caravan  was 
delayed  till  the  quarrel  was  over.  It  lasted  many  min- 
utes, and  impressed  me  with  the  fact  that  the  Arabs  can 
fight  with  their  tongue  as  no  other  peoj^le  on  earth. 
Some  peasants  joined  in  the  melee.  One  attempted  to 
be  a  peace-maker ;  but  in  arranging  the  articles  of  agree- 
ment he  quarreled  louder  than  all  the  others  put  togeth- 
er. When  the  storm  of  human  passion  had  ceased,  I  in- 
formed the  parties  that  nothing  of  the  kind  must  occur 
again;  and  they  obeyed  my  instructions  till  the  next 
quarrel,  which  was  longer  and  louder  than  the  first. 
But  this  war  of  words  resulted  to  our  advantage,  for 
Hadji  Merridj  walked  faster  by  two  miles  to  the  hour. 
I  pitied  both  man  and  beast,  but  admired  the  walking 
abilities  of  the  Arab.  The  two  men  who  led  the  Jcliaja- 
wall  mules  walked  thirty  miles  a  day  for  ten  consecutive 
days,  with  only  an  hour's  rest  at  noon,  and  were  as  vig- 

14 


^10 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


oi'ous  and  fresh  at  the  end  of  the  journey  as  at  its  com- 
mencement. Their  food  was  rice,  coarse  bread,  cucum- 
bers, and  sour  milk,  without  meat  or  strong  drink.  They 
forded  rivers;  they  waded  through  marshes;  they  trav- 
eled through  mud  knee-deep,  without  a  chill  to  shake 
them  or  a  fever  to  burn  them. 


TOWN   OP   KIFKI. 


At  10  A.M.  we  crossed  a  dilapidated  brick  bridge  over  a 
large  stream,  and  soon  the  hills  and  domes  of  Kifri  were 
in  sight.  At  noon  we  entered  the  gates  of  the  city,  and 
found,  to  our  comfort,  a  two-storied  coffee-house,  of  the 
upper  story  of  which  we  took  possession.  It  was  the 
laro-est  and  best  constructed  town  we  had  seen  thus  far 
on  our  journey.  Pleasantly  located  at  the  base  of  pict- 
uresque hills,  it  is  inclosed  by  a  mud-wall,  which  is  sur- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  211 

mounted  with  a  higli  parapet,  pierced  with  loop-holes  for 
musketry.  A  stream  of  clean  water  runs  through  the 
village,  which  is  distributed  by  small  canals  through  the 
central  parts  of  the  town,  contributing  to  the  cleanliness 
of  the  place  and  the  comfort  of  the  inhabitants.  Within 
the  walls  were  palm-groves  and  orchards  of  the  sweet- 
lemon.  The  principal  bazaar  was  in  a  brick  arcade, 
wherein  oranges,  lemons,  dates,  apricots,  pomegranates, 
and  Manchester  goods  were  for  sale.  On  the  banks  of 
the  stream  were  the  coffee-houses,  wdiere  idlers  and  trav- 
elers lounged,  took  their  coffee,  and  smoked  their  pipes. 
Near  our  quarters  was  a  small  mosque,  from  whose  min- 
aret the  muezzin  called  the  faithful  to  prayers.  The  in- 
habitants numbered  from  three  to  five  thousand,  whose 
language,  features,  and  manners  indicated  that  they  were 
of  Turkish  extraction;  which  fact  is  suggestive  of  the 
origin  of  the  place,  that  originally  it  was  a  post-station 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  couriers  between  Constan- 
tinople and  Bagdad.  And  this  is  the  probable  origin  of 
most  of  these  villages  between  Bagdad  and  Mosul,  which 
will  sufficiently  account  for  their  being  placed  at  equal 
distances  from  each  other,  while  the  rest  of  the  country 
between  them  is  desert  and  unpeopled.  In  process  of 
time,  a  population  was  gathered  around  these  halting- 
places,  some  of  which  are  now  flourishing  villages.  To 
the  east  of  the  town  is  a  range  of  picturesque  hills,  streak- 
ed with  red  and  white  strata,  and  in  which  is  found  a 
clouded  marble  that  might  be  utilized  for  building  pur- 
poses. At  the  base  of  the  hills  was  a  large  cemetery, 
wherein  were  many  monuments  of  open  domes. 

While  we  were  dining,  a  regiment  of  Turkish  soldiers 
entered  town,  with  banners  flying  and  bugles  blowing. 
The  line  of  march  was  through  the  bazaar,  across  the 
stream  to  the  coftee- house  where  we  were  quartered. 


212  THBONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

First  came  the  small  guns,  mounted  on  horses ;  then  came 
the  smiths,  with  their  tools  on  mules ;  then  came  the  col- 
onel, a  fine-looking  old  man,  dressed  like  a  European  ex- 
cept the  fez,  mounted  on  a  sj^lendid  gray,  and  followed 
by  the  rank  and  file,  with  full  band  of  music.  It  was  a 
merry  episode  to  us,  but  not  so  to  the  bazaar-men,  who 
immediately  closed  their  shops,  or  they  would  have  been 
emptied  of  their  contents  by  the  soldiers,  without  asking 
and  without  paying.  These  troops  had  come  to  relieve 
another  regiment  which  had  been  stationed  here,  and,  ac- 
cording to  the  oppressive  system  of  the  Turks,  were  bil- 
leted on  the  people.  They  were  seen  in  every  house,  and 
for  the  time  being  were  the  acknowledged  masters  of  the 
homes  where  they  were  quartered.  They  strolled  through 
the  streets;  they  lounged  about  the  coftee-houses ;  they 
made  the  night  hideous  with  their  drunken  songs  and 
shouts  of  revelry. 

At  midnight,  the  long-gathering  storm  broke  in  fury 
upon  the  town  of  Kifri,  causing  the  stream  to  overflow 
its  banks  and  flood  the  streets.  All  the  next  day  the 
rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  we  were  only  too  hapj^y  that 
necessity  was  laid  upon  us  to  rest  from  the  fatigue  of  the 
journey.  But  at  five  o'clock  the  succeeding  morning  we 
were  asjain  in  motion.  It  was  a  relief  when  once  out  of 
the  narrow,  crooked,  filthy  streets  of  Kifri,  wherein  the 
mud  was  two  feet  deep.  Our  path  lay  over  a  rich  prai- 
rie, bounded  on  the  east  by  hills  of  many  colors.  The 
bright  skies  of  the  early  dawn  were  now  black  with  the 
pent-up  storm,  which  too  soon  burst  upon  our  unshelter- 
ed heads.  The  wind  had  changed  to  the  north-east,  and 
hastened  the  storm,  which  had  seemed  to  linger  in  mercy 
till  we  could  reach  some  friendly  tent.  Wind,  rain,  and 
hail  combined  their  energies  to  make  that  desert  storm 
a  discomfort  never  to  be  forgotten.     But  He  who  is 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  213 

greater  than  nature  charged  the  winds  to  harm  us  not, 
and  commanded  the  rains  to  cease,  and  they  obeyed  his 
voice.  In  less  than  an  hour  the  storm-capped  cloud  had 
passed  to  the  south-west,  and  the  sun  shone  resplendently 
on  plain  and  mountain. 

At  noon  we  reached  the  dreaded  Dooz,  of  which  our 
guides  had  foretold  us,  and  whose  alarming  stories  had 
excited  our  fears.  Nor  were  their  representations  un- 
founded. The  recent  rains  and  melted  snows  had  swollen 
the  stream  to  the  width  of  half  a  mile.  It  is  a  mountain 
stream  that  flows  down  a  narrow  ravine  in  the  red  and 
white  hills  of  Dooz.  In  summer  the  passing  ox  might 
exhaust  it ;  but  now  it  was  deep,  broad,  and  rapid.  It 
flowed  in  three  channels,  each  of  which  we  had  to  ford, 
and  the  current  in  each  was  not  less  than  six  miles  an 
hour.  As  the  passage  was  near  the  foot  of  the  steep 
hills,  the  tumultuous  waters  rushed,  leaped,  foamed  in 
their  descent  to  the  Tigris.  We  paused  on  the  gravel 
shore  for  consultation.  The  passing  seemed  forbidding. 
Horse  and  rider  might  be  swept  away.  One  of  our  sol- 
diers refused  to  cross,  and,  to  prove  his  cowardice,  left 
without  his  pay.  But  Ashur  and  the  other  soldier  were 
willing  and  brave  enough  to  test  the  possibility.  Into 
the  foaming  torrent  they  plunged  up  to  their  horses'  bri- 
dles. Now  to  the  right,  now  to  the  left,  they  turned ; 
now  they  advanced,  now  they  returned ;  again  they 
moved  forward,  to  And  sure  footing  and  the  least  water. 
An  hour  had  passed,  and  they  were  safe  on  the  other 
shore.  The  villagers  had  noticed  our  arrival,  and  had 
hastened  to  the  river.  Familiar  with  the  "  paths  of  the 
sea,"  and  certain  of  a  reward  if  they  conducted  us  across 
in  safety,  a  dozen  natives  offered  themselves  as  guides. 
They  waded  across  in  water  up  to  their  armpits,  two  of 
them  leading  the  horses  ridden  by  Ashur  and  the  sol- 


314  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

dier.  We  were  compelled  to  abandon  our  Icliajawahs 
and  cross  on  horseback.  Three  of  the  strongest  of  the 
natives  took  Mrs.  Newman  in  charge,  and  led  the  way. 
Then  followed  Mr.  Collins  on  a  mule,  led  by  two  Arabs. 
I  was  on  horseback,  and  started  with  the  baggage  mules 
and  Tchajaioahs,  but  midway  the  rapid  current  we  came 
in  collision,  and  for  a  moment  our  peril  was  imminent. 
My  horse,  however,  sustained  the  shock  without  injury ; 
but,  in  the  confusion  that  followed,  I  was  left  alone  in 
that  unknown  stream,  mounted  on  a  young  and  fractious 
horse,  to  i-each  the  other  shore  as  best  I  might.  So  rap- 
id was  the  current  that  the  horse  seemed  to  go  sidewise, 
and,  to  all  appearance,  I  was  borne  down  the  stream.  A 
moment's  reflection,  however,  convinced  me  that  neither 
was  true,  for  my  horse,  although  moving  very  slowly, 
still  touched  bottom,  and  a  sidewise  motion,  like  a  crab, 
was  impossible  for  a  horse.  By  this  time,  Mrs.  New- 
man and  Mr.  Collins  had  landed  safely,  which  relieved 
me  of  anxiety  for  them,  but  allowed  me  to  think  only  of 
my  perilous  situation.  I  had  yet  the  third  branch  of 
the  stream  to  cross.  Neither  soldier,  servant,  nor  native 
thought  it  necessary  to  come  to  my  aid.  Once  or  twice 
the  horse  stumbled  over  the  huge  stones  in  the  bed  of 
the  river,  and  once  the  water  was  so  deep  that  he  began 
to  float.  Self-possession  was  indispensable.  Fixing  the 
eye  on  the  distant  shore,  and  holding  a  taught  rein,  I 
kept  steadily  on,  and,  after  a  desperate  struggle  up  the 
opposite  bank,  I  joined  the  others  in  a  doxology  of  praise 
to  Him  whose  voice  the  floods  obey.  Overcome  with 
grateful  emotions,  our  "elect  lady"  rewarded  the  Arabs 
who  had  guided  her  over,  and  who  mingled  with  their 
thankful  expressions  the  wish  that  the  floods  might  con- 
tinue the  year  round,  and  American  ladies  might  be  com- 
pelled to  cross  every  day. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  215 

In  half  an  Lour  we  were  in  the  small  and  filthy  town 
of  Dooz  Kliiirmuttee,  whose  only  beauty  is  a  date-palm 
grove.  The  mud  was  not  less  than  a  foot  deep,  through 
which  we  proudly  rode,  watched  by  veiled  maidens,  by 
gray-bearded,  solemn-looking  men,  and  followed  by  rol- 
licsome  boys,  as  if  a  circus  had  come  to  town.  On  reach- 
ing the  khan,  Fatoheh  pointed  me  to  a  dark  and  vile 
hole  in  which  to  lodge ;  but  that  was  too  much  for  hu- 
man nature  to  endure,  and,  at  an  expense  of  forty  pi- 
astres for  the  night,  we  rented  the  whole  of  a  coffee- 
house. The  place  was  an  open  arcade,  with  six  piers  and 
six  flattened  domes,  and  had  the  virtue  of  having  been 
recently  whitewashed.  Therein  we  spent  the  afternoon, 
and  passed'  the  night  with  measurable  comfort.  Four 
watchmen  stood  guard  all  night,  and  two  soldiers  were 
sent  by  the  officer  in  command  to  patrol  the  streets. 
These  proved  necessary  precautions,  as,  soon  after  we 
had  fallen  asleep,  a  row  occurred.  A  drunken  Arab  had 
entered  a  house  near-by  and  abused  the  family.  All 
rushed  to  the  coffee-house  to  settle  the  dispute.  As 
usual,  there  was  a  war  of  words,  and  a  peaceful  separa- 
tion. 

A  frugal  breakfast  of  eggs,  milk,  rice,  and  Arab  bread, 
and  we  were  on  our  way  to  Tavok,  seven  hours  through 
a  rich  and  grand  valley,  with  hills  on  the  east  and 
mountains  on  the  west.  The  day  was  the  sunniest  of 
all  our  journey.  As  we  passed  the  black  tents  of  the 
Bedouins,  surrounded  with  glorious  flocks,  they  recalled 
the  patriarchs  of  old  w^ho  dwelt  in  similar  tents,  and 
whose  flocks  and  herds  w^ere  led  forth  to  pasture  by 
Joseph  and  his  brethren.  On  the  same  road,  a  family 
was  journeying  to  the  North.  The  wife  and  mother  was 
mounted  on  a  mule,  and  held  in  her  arms  a  little  child. 
So  traveled  Joseph  and  Mary  with  the  infant  Saviour. 


216  '  THRONES  AND  FALACES  OF 

The  East  is  changeless,  and  the  pictures  of  such  scenes 
are  true  to  life. 

At  11  A.M.  we  saw  a  great  company  of  men  approach- 
ing, some  on  foot,  some  on  horseback.  We  had  heard 
much  of  robbers,  and,  to  all  appearance,  we  were  now  in 
their  power.  But  a  nearer  view  disclosed  the  fact  that 
they  were  a  hundred  conscripts,  all  young  men  who  had 
been  taken  from  their  homes  by  force  to  recruit  the 
Turkish  army.  Their  hands  were  secured  in  large 
wooden  frames,  which  answered  the  purpose  of  hand- 
cuffs, and  were  conducted  by  mounted  soldiers  en  route 
for  Bagdad.  They  were  treated  as  so  many  convicts, 
and  illustrated  how  weak  and  mean  must  be  a  govern- 
ment compelled  to  reinforce  its  army  in  such  a  way.  An 
hour  later,  we  were  joined  by  a  dandy  Turkish  officer. 
He  was  young  and  handsome.  His  uniform  was  richly 
ornamented,  and  over  it  was  thrown  a  white  military 
cloak.  He  rode  a  beautiful  white  horse,  and  was  armed 
with  cimeter  and  silver -mounted  pistols.  He  declined 
conversation  with  our  men,  and  contented  himself  with 
stroking  his  silken  mustache. 

It  was  noon  when  we  reached  the  Tavok  River,  which 
was  much  swollen,  and  divided  into  six  streams,  all  of 
which  we  crossed  safely  by  aid  of  the  natives.  On  the 
banks  of  the  river  were  large  encampments  of  nomads, 
and  near-by  were  their  cultivated  fields.  Hundreds  of 
travelers,  who  had  forded  the  river,  were  drying  them- 
selves and  their  goods  in  the  glorious  sunlight  on  the 
green  hills  of  Tavok.  The  village  of  Tavok  can  boast  a 
mosque,  a  coffee-house,  and  a  post-office.  The  old  khan 
is  comfortable  for  neither  man  nor  beast.  It  required 
time,  patience,  and  money  to  rent  the  coffee-house  for  a 
nio;ht.  The  idlers  and  o-amblers  were  unwillins;  to  va- 
cate,  and  the  proprietor  hesitated  between  our  offer  and 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  '  217 

the  favor  of  Lis  old  patrons.  But  thirty  piastres  were  a 
prize  too  great  to  lose ;  and,  in  consenting  to  our  wishes, 
he  stipulated  that  he  should  be  permitted  to  boil  coffee 
and  light  pipes  for  the  use  of  his  customers. 

Here  we  met  another  dandy  Turkish  officer,  who  dis- 
played his  silver  watch  in  a  most  conspicuous  manner, 
and  was  anxious  that  I  should  show  him  mine,  which 
would  have  been  a  very*  indiscreet  thing  to  do  in  such 
a  company  as  that.  The  afternoon  was  enlivened  by  a 
singing  dervish,  who  sung  for  money  and  for  bread.  He 
was  a  young  man,  robed  in  white,  whose  hair  was  black, 
and  combed  smoothly  behind  his  ears.  He  sung  in  Per- 
sian, and  had  a  good  bass  voice.  He  was  a  religious  en- 
thusiast, like  the  fakir  in  India,  or  the  barefooted  friar  in 
Italy.  The  people  venerated  him  as  a  holy  person,  and 
crowds  gathered  to  hear  him  sing,  and  loaded  him  with 
bread.  But  our  dandy  soldier  treated  him  with  less  re- 
spect. Throwing  him  a  piece  of  coin,  he  requested  him 
to  leave.  His  request  and  money  were  received  with 
equal  contempt.  The  dervish  threw  back  the  coin  with 
the  plucky  remark :  "  I  won't  have  your  money,  and  I 
will  sing  as  long  as  I  please."  The  villagers  dared  not 
offend  the  soldier  by  applauding  the  independence  of 
the  saint;  but  they  increased  the  number  of  barley 
loaves  to  such  an  extent  that  the  fakir  had  bread  enough 
and  to  spare.  The  dandy  officer  retired,  the  song  of  the 
dervish  ceased,  the  sun  declined, the  night  came  on  apace, 
idler  and  gambler  had  gone  to  their  homes,  and  four 
watchmen  were  employed  to  guard  us  while  we  slept. 

The  dawn  was  beautiful,  and  we  were  up  to  welcome 
the  first  rays  of  a  cloudless  sun.  At  4  a.m.  all  were 
ready  for  the  journey  of  another  day;  but  reports  of 
robberies  and  murders  on  the  road  came  in  so  fast,  that 
we  determined  to  take  a  larger  military  escort.     It  was 


218  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

after  five  o'clock  when  the  tardy  soldiers  came,  and  our 
joy  was  boundless  to  be  once  more  on  the  sweet,  clean 
prairies  of  God's  own  creation.  For  two  hours  our  path 
lay  over  a  rolling  plain  covered  with  grass  and  flowers. 
At  7  A.M.  we  pa-ssed  a  caravan  of  four  hundred  mules 
loaded  with  wheat  for  the  Bagdad  market.  During  the 
morning  we  crossed  several  dried  water-courses  of  black 
sand,  and  large  stones  which  the  floods  had  washed 
down  from  the  mountains.  In  the  richer  fields,  men  and 
women  were  at  work,  digging  for  trufiles,  a  favorite  veg- 
etable with  the  natives.  We  were  now  approaching  the 
most  dangerous  portion  of  the  road.  The  caravans  that 
had  preceded  us  had  halted  for  reinforcements,  and  we 
gladly  joined  them  for  mutual  protection.  Our  united 
strength  consisted  of  thirty  men  and  women,  and  fifty 
donkeys,  mules,  and  horses.  We  now  entered  the  hills, 
and  were  soon  in  a  deep,  narrow  ravine,  where  yester- 
day a  caravan  had  been  robbed  and  four  men  murdered. 
All  was  excitement.  The  Arabs  dismounted  and  care- 
fully examined  their  weapons  of  defense.  Some  had 
guns;  some  carried  swords;  others  were  armed  with 
lonfr  sheathed  knives.  A  woman  led  the  van.  Whether 
from  the  excitement  of  fear  or  the  better  attribute  of 
heroism,  she  outran  the  men,  and,  with  the  agility  of  the 
gazelle,  she  was  first  to  mount  the  highest  hill  from 
which  to  reconnoitre  the  field  of  danger.  All  was  hurry, 
yet  all  were  silent  as  the  grave.  The  point  of  expect- 
ed attack  was  approached  and  watched  wnth  breathless 
anxiety.  It  was  a  relief  to  get  through  the  dreaded  ra- 
vine; and  then  came  an  Arab  chatter  mingled  with  ev- 
ery demonstration  of  joy,  the  reaction  of  fear  incident  to 
anticipated  danger. 

An  hour  beyond  the  "  Robber's  Pass,"  we  crossed  a 
large   stream,  wherein    pretty    maidens    were    washing 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH.  219 

clothes,  which  they  spread  on  the  green  hills  beyond.  It 
is  a  beautiful  site  for  the  large  town  of  Tashemuttee,  where 
the  hills  are  so  green  and  graceful,  the  meadows  so  vast 
and  rich,  the  streams  so  clear  and  abundant.  Within 
high  walls,  surmounted  with  higher  watch-towers,  were 
peach  and  apple  orchards;  and  adjacent  thereto  were 
fields  of  wheat  and  corn.  Beyond  the  town,  we  met  a 
caravan  of  fifty  camels,  the  first  we  had  seen  since  we  left 
Bagdad,  The  hours  passed  merrily.  The  day  was  de- 
lightful ;  the  scenery  was  beautiful ;  a  gleesome  spirit 
animated  our  souls.  Although  the  Arabs  know  little 
of  music  beyond  simple  melody  expressed  in  monotone 
chants,  yet  "  Yankee  Doodle,"  "  Hail  Columbia,"  and  the 
"  Star-spangled  Banner  "  never  failed  to  set  our  muleteers 
dancing  on  the  road,  and  often  excited  them  to  the  most 
grotesque  antics.  Nor  were  they  insensible  to  the  holi- 
er, sweeter  songs  of  Zion,  which  charmed  their  untutored 
minds.  Jebarah's  son  was  specially  fond  of  that  delight- 
ful hymn : 

"I  want  to  be  an  angel,  and  with  tlie  angels  stand," 

and  which  I  succeeded  in  teaching  him  ere  we  parted. 

At  2  P.M.  we  had  come  twenty -one  miles,  and,  after 
fording  a  deep  and  rapid  stream,  we  entered  the  city  of 
Kerkook,  which  contains  thirty  thousand  inhabitants. 
An  hour  thereafter,  we  were  comfortably  quartered  in 
the  second  story  of  a  large,  clean  khan,  wherein  we  re- 
mained until  the  next  clay.  The  well-supplied  bazaars 
furnished  us  with  poultry,  cracked  wheat,  fresh  eggs  and 
milk,  and  the  fruits  and  preserves  peculiar  to  the  East. 
Taking  Hadji  Flash  for  a  guide,  we  strolled  through  the 
town,  to  observe  and  note  whatever  of  interest  might  be 
presented  to  our  view.  The  large  bazaars  were  thronged 
with  people,  and  gayly-dressed  maidens  were  everywhere 


220  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

seen  returning  from  the  river  with  well-filled  pitchers, 
which  they  gracefully  poised  upon  head  and  shoulder. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  Kerkook  was  once  a  mili- 
tary station  of  the  Romans  during  the  existence  of  their 
power  in  the  East.  At  present,  the  city  is  divided  into 
three  parts,  each  of  considerable  size.  On  a  high  and  ex- 
tensive mound,  artificially  shaped  into  an  inclined  slope, 
is  the  fortified  portion  of  the  town,  within  whose  walls 
are  the  dwellings  of  privileged  Moslems,  and  three 
mosques  whose  minarets  are  seen  from  afar.  The  second 
portion  is  spread  out  on  the  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  cita- 
del, and  in  it  are  the  j^rincipal  khans,  coflfee-houses,  and 
bazaars,  and  a  mixed  population  of  Moslems,  Nestorians, 
and  Syrian  Christians.  Half  a  mile  from  the  citadel,  and 
beyond  the  river,  is  the  third  and  smaller  portion,  where- 
in are  walled  gardens,  with  date  and  orange  groves,  with 
extensive  graperies  and  olive  orchards.  Adjacent  to  this 
section  is  the  city  of  the  dead,  containing  a  larger  popu- 
lation than  the  city  of  the  living.  As  we  passed,  we  saw- 
six  women  weeping  at  a  new-made  grave,  the  last  resting- 
place  of  some  dear  departed  one.  This  is  a  melancholy 
custom  in  the  East,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  for  the  mourn- 
ers to  spend  days  at  the  tomb  of  buried  afl^ection  in 
recalling  the  virtues  of  those  who  have  gone  never  to 
return. 

Ashur  had  applied  to  the  Pasha  of  Kerkook  for  a  mil- 
itary escort  of  two  soldiers,  but  was  informed  that  not 
more  than  ten  soldiers  remained  in  the  barracks,  and  the 
request  was,  therefore,  not  granted.  This  was  an  unfore- 
seen embarrassment.  All  agreed  that  it  would  not  be 
safe  to  proceed  without  military  protection,  as  the  country 
was  in  a  disturbed  state,  and  infested  with  Kurdish  rob- 
bers, whose  recent  depredations  had  alarmed  the  people. 
The  governor,  however,  was  gracious  enough  to  send  me 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  221 

word  that  the  family  of  the  Pasha  of  Mosul  would  pro- 
ceed North  at  an  early  hour,  and  invited  us  to  join  that 
caravan.  We  were  to  rendezvous  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river,  and  thence  proceed  with  the  grand  caval- 
cade. After  waiting  an  hour,  an  officer  rode  over  to  in- 
form us  that  the  caravan  was  about  to  start.  First  came 
twenty  soldiers  on  foot ;  then  came  twenty  mules  loaded 
with  tents,  trunks,  and  household  furniture ;  then  came 
twenty  horsemen  armed  with  lances,  swords,  and  rifles ; 
and  finally  came  the  tukliteravan  in  which  sat  the  pasha's 
two  wives,  followed  by  four  IcJiajawahs  containing  Cir- 
cassian and  Nubian  female  slaves.  The  son  of  the  pasha, 
a  young  man  of  one-and-twenty,  rode  a  white  mule,  by 
way  of  distinction.  It  was  a  large  and  well-fed  beast, 
and,  according  to  custom  in  the  East,  the  tail  and  ears 
were  dyed  with  henna  a  bright  red,  and  the  body  was 
spotted  with  the  same  color,  resembling  a  heraldic  tal- 
bot.  Only  persons  of  eminence  in  religion  or  in  the  gov- 
ernment are  permitted  to  ride  such  an  animal,  which  is  a 
custom  as  old  as  the  Judges  of  Israel.^'  Near  him,  and 
mounted  on  a  small  donkey,  was  a  Nubian  slave,  pur- 
chased by  the  pasha  at  Medina  for  the  sum  of  sixty  dol- 
lars in  gold.  He  was  not  yet  eight  years  old,  but  ex- 
ceedingly bright,  and  the  pet  of  all  the  company.  He 
will  yet  be  chief  eunuch  of  his  master's  harem. 

The  place  of  rendezvous  was  where  two  roads  met. 
One  led  over  the  plains,  and  was  the  longer  b}^  several 
miles.  The  other  crossed  a  range  of  white  limestone 
hills,  and,  although  shorter,  was  to  be  dreaded  as  run- 
ning; through  the  stronsfhold  of  the  Kurdish  robbers. 
A  consultation  was  held  as  to  which  road  should  be 
taken.     The  council  of  war  was  evidently  divided,  as 

*  Judges  v.,  10. 


222  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

some  of  the  foot-soldiers  had  started  over  the  plains  as 
the  safer  of  the  two  routes ;  and  with  them  had  depart- 
ed a  number  of  small  caravans  of  merchants.  But  the 
braver  of  the  soldiers  preferred  the  shorter,  though  more 
dangerous,  road,  and  displayed  their  superior  courage  by 
proudly  galloping  over  the  plain,  some  brandishing  the 
glittering  sword,  others  poising  the  long  lance,  and  giv- 
ing it  that  tremulous  motion  which  betokens  military 
skill,  and  others  discharging  rifle  and  revolver,  indicative 
of  their  preparation  to  meet  the  foe.  It  was  a  momenta- 
ry contest  between  courageous  prudence  and  courageous 
imprudence.  It  was  not  strange  that  the  latter  prevailed. 
The  command  passed  down  through  the  long  caravan, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  in  motion  for  the  hills. 
We  followed  the  telegraph-poles,  which  indicated  that 
we  had  chosen  the  shorter  route.  In  less  than  two  hours 
we  reached  the  naphtha  springs,  which  are  very  exten- 
sive, and  are  w^orked  by  the  natives  with  considerable 
success.  The  steam  issued  from  the  deep  pits,  and  the 
boiling  liquid  was  conveyed  through  small  canals  to  a 
large  reservoir  prepared  to  receive  it.  The  native  work- 
men were  besmeared  with  the  black  naphtha,  and  were 
hideous  to  behold. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  dreaded  spot.  "  Keep 
together"  was  the  order  from  the  commander  of  the 
troop.  Soldiers  on  foot  advanced  to  the  front,  and  stood 
in  the  mouth  of  each  ravine,  while  the  horsemen  galloped 
in  the  wildest  manner  over  the  hills,  and  commanded  the 
summit  of  each  bold  and  rugged  peak.  Every  eye  was 
on  the  watch;  all  marched  with  bated  breath;  not  a 
word  was  spoken.  The  report  of  a  rifle  sent  a  tremor 
through  horse  and  rider,  through  tukliteravan  and  hliaja- 
wali;  but  it  proved  to  be  only  the  signal  that  all  was 
well,  which  caused  veiled  women  to  laugh,  and  armed 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  223 

men  to  shout  for  joy.  We  soon  reached  the  summit  of 
the  highest  ridge,  where  we  smiled  at  our  fears,  and  re- 
joiced over  the  noble  panorama  presented  to  our  view. 
Rich  meadows,  flowing  streams,  vast  valleys,  beautiful 
hills  —  smooth,  conical,  and  green,  with  the  immense 
snowy  range  of  Media  far  away — its  loftier  peaks  touch- 
ing the  clouds — composed  a  landscape  never  to  be  for- 
gotten. 

The  descent  was  rapid  and  joyous.  All  prepared  for 
luncheon.  Arabs  to  the  east ;  Americans  to  the  west. 
The  wives  of  the  pasha  sat  in  a  charmed  circle,  which 
none  Avere  permitted  to  a23proach  but  the  master  of  the 
harem  and  the  black  eunuchs.  They  were  guarded  with 
jealous  care.  Their  freedom  was  restrained.  They  were 
not  allowed  to  wander  over  the  fields  and  gather  the 
wild  flowers  of  spring.  They  conversed  in  an  under- 
tone. Neither  the  merry  song  nor  the  gleeful  laugh 
came  from  that  forbidden  circle.  They  were  the  prison- 
ers of  a  suspicious  love. 

After  an  hour's  rest,  the  journey  was  resumed.  Our 
path  lay  through  a  vast,  beautiful  valley,  bounded  by  a 
circlet  of  hills.  In  the  fields  were  men  plowing  with  oxen, 
who  made  furrows  deep,  broad,  and  straight.  Along  the 
way-side  were  reservoirs  ten  feet  in  diameter  and  as  many 
deep.  A  hundred  feet  apart,  they  extended  for  miles  on 
either  side  of  the  road.  In  the  rainy  season,  when  the 
nearer  streams  are  full,  the  water  is  conveyed  to  these 
wells,  to  be  used  for  irrigation  in  the  rainless  months  of 
summer. 

The  minarets  of  Altoon  Kupri  were  now  in  view. 
The  rushing  waters  of  the  Lesser  Zab  could  be  heard  in 
the  distance.  The  whole  caravan  moved  forward  with 
quickened  pace.  Ashur  and  Fatoheh  had  preceded  us, 
and  taken  the  two  best  rooms  in  the  miserable  khan ; 


224  THBONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

but,  while  absent  to  escort  us  to  our  quarters,  a  dozen 
soldiers  of  the  pasha's  caravan  had  taken  possession  of 
one  of  the  rooms  and  refused  to  vacate.  There  was  no 
help  for  the  Americans.  Submission  was  a  necessary 
virtue.  But  close  jjroximity  to  such  men  was  neither 
safe  nor  pleasant.  So,  crossing  the  court,  filled  with 
horses,  mules,  and  soldiers,  we  ascended  to  the  upper 
terrace,  and  occuj)ied  an  open  space  between  two  rooms, 
wherein  were  stored  hides  of  sheep  and  goats,  whose 
odor  was  more  abundant  than  fragrant. 

Attended  by  Ashur,  who  marched  in  advance  with 
drawn  sword,  to  show  his  importance  and  convince  the 
Arabs  and  the  dogs  of  my  dignity,  I  sauntered  through 
the  well-supplied  bazaars,  and  passed  large  coffee-houses, 
wherein  merchant  and  muleteer,  soldier  and  pilgrim,  had 
congregated  to  smoke  and  gossip.  On  our  way,  we 
passed  the  gardens  of  the  governor,  whose  residence  was 
spacious  and  inviting  to  one  who,  in  happier  days,  had 
seen  the  grand  hotels  in  the  civilized  West.  The  town 
is  divided  into  two  unequal  parts  by  the  Altoon  Sour, 
or  Golden  Water.  The  inhabitants  can  not  number  less 
than  twenty  thousand,  the  major  portion  of  whom  live 
on  the  island  formed  by  the  two  branches  of  the  Golden 
Water.  There  was  nothing  either  in  the  form  or  come- 
liness of  the  buildings  to  j)lease  the  artist  or  delight  the 
traveler.  The  chief  attraction  of  the  place  is  the  classic 
river,  which  is  here  spanned  by  a  remarkable  bridge. 
This  stream  is,  no  doubt,  the  Zabatus  Minor  of  Xeno- 
phon,  and  the  Caprus  of  Ptolemy.  It  is  known  to  the 
natives  as  the  Lesser  Zab,  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
Greater  Zab,  which  is  north  of  Arbela,  and  which  we  are 
to  cross  to-morrow.  Its  source  is  in  the  mountains  to 
the  east,  and  its  volume  is  increased  by  lesser  streams, 
which  intercept  it  in  its  course  to  the  Tigris.     Its  waters 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  225 

ai'e  sweet  and  have  a  golden  tinge,  whicli  suggested  the 
Arab  name  of  the  stream.  Always  considerable,  its  vol- 
ume is  immensely  increased  by  the  melting  of  the  Me- 
dian snows.  It  is  then  a  tremendous  torrent,  whose 
waters  rush  by  with  unwonted  violence.  At  such  times 
the  water  rises  twenty  feet  above  the  summer  level,  sub- 
merging the  adjacent  plains.  To  obviate  this  extraordi- 
nary rise  in  the  spring-time,  the  Turks  have  constructed 
a  remarkable  bridge.  This  bridge  is  fourteen  feet  wide, 
one  hundred  feet  long,  and  fifty  feet  high.  It  consists  of 
five  circular  arches,  the  central  and  largest  of  which  is 
eighty  feet  in  diameter.  The  materials  are  brick  and 
stone,  and  the  structure  is  grand  and  substantial.  It 
was  sublime  to  hear  the  thunder  of  the  tumultuous 
waters  as  they  rushed  through  those  vast  arches,  and 
formed  as  many  foaming  streams  on  the  opposite  side, 
where  they  once  more  united  in  their  course  to  the  Ti- 
gris. While  taking  the  measurements  of  the  bridge,  I 
was  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  natives,  who  asked  a 
thousand  curious  questions,  and  wondered  how  a  line 
one  hundred  feet  lono-  could  be  reeled  in  a  box  so  small. 
They  were  Turks  and  Arabs,  dressed  in  gay-colored  shal- 
loons and  muslins,  some  of  which  were  fantastic  from 
their  great  variety.  As  it  was  the  evening  hour,  the 
bridge  was  thronged  with  camels,  mules,  and  donkeys, 
and  shepherds  returning  with  their  flocks.  The  steep- 
ness of  the  bridge  added  to  the  difficulty  of  the  passage. 
As  it  is  one  hundred  feet  long  and  fifty  feet  high,  the 
ascent  was  steep  and  difficult.  Few  of  the  beasts  of 
burden  could  carry  their  load  to  the  top  of  the  curva- 
ture, and  this  compelled  the  drivers  to  unload  before 
attempting  to  cross,  which  caused  much  noise  and  con- 
fusion. 

The  first  rays  of  the  morning  were  liailed  with  delight. 

15 


226  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

It  was  a  relief  to  eacli  and  all  of  our  five  senses,  when 
we  issued  out  of  the  old  khan.  Crossing  the  northern 
bridge,  we  were  soon  among  the  beautiful  hills,  where 
we  watched  the  morning  light  chase  the  shades  of  night 
away,  and  beheld  the  snowy  peaks  of  Media  invite  the 
sun's  earliest  beams.  Here  and  there  were  cultivated 
fields,  with  tents  and  herds  and  orchards.  It  was  pleas- 
ant to  follow  the  mountain  stream,  with  its  foaniing  rap- 
ids and  sparkling  cascades.  At  10  a.m.,  we  halted  for 
breakfast  on  a  flowery  meadow  near  a  murmurino^  brook, 
and  where  we  would  have  gladly  spent  the  live-long  day. 
An  hour's  rest,  and  our  caravan  was  again  in  motion. 
We  were  approaching  a  memorably  historic  site,  where- 
on an  empire  was  lost  and  won  between  the  rising  and 
the  setting  sun.  In  three  hours  thereafter,  we  saw  on 
ipur  right  the  ancient  Arbela,  the  Arbeel  of  the  modern 
Turks.  How  grandly  its  old  citadel  stood  out  against 
the  clear  sky !  An  hour  latei",  and  we  were  on  the  bat- 
tle-field where  a  million  and  a  half  of  combatants  fouo;ht 
for  the  empire  of  Asia ;  where  Alexander  the  Great,  with 
fifty  thousand  horse  and  foot,  put  to  flight  a  million  of 
soldiers,  commanded  in  person  by  Darius  of  Ecbatana. 
That  great  battle  was  fought  in  the  month  of  October,  in 
the  year  330  before  the  Christian  era.  Alexander  had 
come  from  Egypt,  through  Palestine  and  Syria.  He  had 
triumphed  at  Gi-anicus  and  conquered  at  Issus.  He 
had  been  received  with  regal  lionors  at  the  gates  of  Je- 
rusalem. Intent  on  the  mastery  of  the  world,  he  had 
traversed  the  Syrian  desert,  and  crossed  the  Tigris  not 
forty  miles  above  ancient  Nineveh.  His  victorious  army 
of  forty  thousand  foot  and  seven  thousand  horse  he  com- 
manded in  person,  aided  by  Parmenio,  the  most  distin- 
guished of  all  his  lieutenants.  His  march  was  south- 
ward, with  the  Tigris  on  his  right  and  the  Kurdistan 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  227 

mountains  on  his  left.  He  had  less  than  one  hundred 
miles  to  march  to  meet  tlie  enemy. 

Darius  had  come  from  his  palace  at  Ecbatana  to  expel 
an  invading  foe.  His  mighty  army,  a  million  strong,  Avas 
composed  of  Scythians,  Bactrians,  Armenians,  Cap2:)ado- 
cians,  Babylonians,  Persians,  Mardian  archers,  Greek  mer- 
cenaries, and  Indians,  mounted  on  their  war  elephants, 
which  had  come  from  parts  beyond  the  Indus.  Sole 
master  of  the  territoi"}',  he  had  caused  the  inequalities  in 
the  surface  of  the  earth  to  be  leveled,  for  the  free  move- 
ment of  his  two  hundred  chariots  armed  with  scythes. 
His  stores  and  treasures  were  deposited  in  the  citadel  of 
Arbela.  From  his  base,  he  marched  to  the  north-west, 
crossed  the  Greater  Zab,  and  at  the  small  village  of  Gau- 
gamela,  on  the  banks  of  the  Bumadus,  awaited  the  com- 
ing of  the  enemy. 

Nor  was  he  long  in  waiting.  Just  nine  days  from  the 
time  Alexander  had  crossed  the  Ti2:ris,  the  2:reat  battle 
was  fought  in  the  beautiful  weather  of  an  Assyrian  Oc- 
tober; and  ere  the  sun  of  that  day  had  declined,  Darius 
had  lost  his  emj^ire.  Three  hundred  thousand  dead  lay 
upon  the  field.  The  kings  met  in  single-handed  combat. 
The  spear  of  Alexander  transfixed  the  charioteer  of  Da- 
rius. In  the  confusion  which  ensued,  Darius  escaped. 
He  fled  toward  Arbela,  which  he  reached  at  midnight, 
but  left  it  at  dawn  the  next  day  for  his  palace  and  for- 
tress at  Ecbatana,  in  the  mountains  of  Media.  To  rescue 
Parmenio,  Alexander  had  ceased  his  pursuit  of  Darius. 
But  at  noon  the  next  day,  the  conqueror  entered  Arbela, 
where  he  found  treasure  in  gold  estimated  at  five  million 
dollars,  where  he  ofi'ered  sacrifices  to  the  gods,  and  where 
he  distributed  rewards  among  those  who  had  distin- 
guished themselves  on  the  field  of  battle ;  and  thus  per- 
ished in  a  day  the  fifth  and  last  of  the  five  Eastern  mon- 


228  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

arcbies.  Some  suppose  that  the  "  he-goat "  was  Alexan- 
der, and  the  "ram"  was  Darius,  as  prophetically  por- 
trayed by  the  jirophet  Daniel :  "And  as  I  was  consider- 
ing, behold,  a  he-goat  came  from  the  west  on  the  face  of 
the  whole  earth,  and  touched  not  the  ground :  and  the 
goat  had  a  notable  horn  between  his  eyes.  And  he 
came  to  the  ram  that  had  two  horns,  which  I  had  seen 
standing  before  the  river,  and  ran  unto  him  in  the  fury 
of  his  power.  And  I  saw  him  come  close  unto  the  ram, 
and  he  was  moved  with  choler  asfainst  him,  and  smote 
the  ram,  and  brake  his  two  horns :  and  there  was  no 
power  in  the  ram  to  stand  before  him,  but  he  cast  him 
down  to  the  ground,  and  stamped  upon  him :  and  there 
was  none  that  could  deliver  the  ram  out  of  his  hand. 
Therefore  the  he-goat  waxed  very  great:  and  when  he 
was  strong,  the  great  horn  was  broken ;  and  for  it  came 
up  four  notable  ones  toward  the  four  winds  of  heaven.* 
It  was  with  no  ordinary  interest  that  we  entered  a 
city  around  which  cluster  so  many  historic  associations. 
It  stands  on  the  banks  of  a  small  stream  in  the  midst  of 
a  noble  plain.  The  principal  feature  of  the  place  is  the 
great  castle,  built  on  an  eminence  in  the  centre  of  the 
town.  The  vast  mound  is  half  a  mile  fi'om  east  to  west, 
and  two  hundred  feet  hio-h.  Its  summit  is  surrounded 
with  a  wall  whose  height  is  not  less  than  thirty  feet. 
From  the  plain  there  is  an  inclined  slope — a  broad,  paved 
causeway,  which  leads  up  to  an  immense  arched  entrance, 
ancient  and  gloomy.  Passing  through  this  vast,  dark 
portal,  we  joined  the  throng  of  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, and,  having  obtained  permission,  we  ascended  to 
the  summit,  whereon  are  the  residence  of  the  governor 
and  the  head-quarters  of  the  commander  of  the  troops. 

*  Daniel  viii.,  5-8. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  229 

His  excellency  was  sitting  on  the  terrace  smoking  his 
eleo:aut  naimleh,  and  conversino;  with  his  officials.  He 
courteously  granted  our  request  for  a  military  escort  for 
the  moiTOw's  journey,  and  permitted  us  to  ascend  to  a 
higher  terrace  to  enjoy  the  commanding  view.  Around 
us,  and  within  the  old  walls  of  the  citadel,  were  mosques 
and  minarets,  small  and  great  dwelling-houses,  and  the 
military  bari'acks  filled  with  Turkish  soldiers.  Beyond 
the  walls  and  down  on  the  plains  was  a  scene  of  greater 
variety.  There  were  streets  shaded  by  awnings  of  leaves 
and  branches  supported  by  poles;  stores  and  dwellings 
constructed  of  sun-dried  bricks,  and  on  whose  roofs  grass 
and  flowers  were  growing ;  pretty  gardens  and  sparkling 
fountains;  long  bazaars  filled  with  well-dressed  people; 
khans  crowded  with  caravans  just  arrived ;  the  river 
gliding  gently  by ;  and  the  city  of  the  dead,  monument- 
ed  with  white  domes  over  the  buried  ashes  of  past  gen- 
erations. Beyond  the  city  of  the  plain  were  green  fields, 
and  beyond  the  fields  of  wheat  and  corn  were  snow-cap- 
ped mountains,  rosy  in  the  reflected  beauty  of  the  setting 
sun. 

We  were  quartered  that  night  in  a  room  on  the  ground- 
floor  of  the  khan,  but  too  near  a  pond  of  fetid  water  for 
health  and  pleasure.  Our  men  were  in  gleeful  spirits. 
There  was  but  another  day's  journey  to  Mosul.  The 
moon  -was  full  and  the  air  balmy.  Arab  merchants,  Per- 
sian pilgrims,  muleteers  of  all  ages,  gathered  around  the 
fires  of  our  cook,  and  watched  him  prepare  the  evening 
meal  for  the  Americans.  They  told  stories,  they  cracked 
jokes,  they  chanted  some  humdrum  melody.  Recent 
murders  and  robberies  were  related  with  tragic  eftect. 
The  keeper  of  the  khan  was  a  Solon  among  them.  He 
was  an  intelligent  old  Arab,  and  from  him  I  ascertained 
that  from  ten  to  twenty  thousand  people  lived  in  Arbeel, 


230  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

who  are  Moslems,  Jews,  and  Christians;  but  only  Moslems 
are  permitted  to  reside  within  the  walls  of  the  citadel. 

As  we  hoped,  by  a  forced  march  of  sixteen  hours,  to 
reach  Mosul  at  the  close  of  the  next  day,  we  gave  orders 
for  an  early  start.  At  4  a.m.  we  were  again  in  motion. 
The  full  moon  was  still  high  in  the  heavens.  The  dawn 
came  on  apace.  How  beautiful  to  watch  the  sunlight 
reveal  in  slow  succession  the  mountain  peaks;  observe 
how  the  clouds  darkened  the  lower  hills,  while  the  morn- 
ing light  made  manifest  the  higher  snowy  summits  far 
away!  In  four  hours  we  passed  the  halfway  khan.  On 
either  side  of  the  road,  the  meadows  were  adorned  witli 
flowers  in  richest  profusion — red,  white,  and  blue,  violet, 
pearl  -  colored,  scarlet,  and  pink.  Here,  one  bloomed  in 
solitary  glory ;  yonder,  thousands  blended  their  beauty 
in  harmony  with  the  rich  grass  of  the  fields.  During 
the  morning  we  rode  along  plains  well  plowed  and 
ready  for  the  seed.  At  times  the  landscape  was  surpass- 
ingly lovely.  At  10  a.m.  we  caught  our  first  view  of  the 
River  Zab,  and  could  trace  its  tortuous  course  for  many 
miles  as  it  flowed  among  the  hills  and  over  the  meadow 
lands.  It  is,  no  doubt,  the  Zabatus  of  Xenophon,  the 
Lycus  of  Ptolemy,  and  the  Zerbis  of  Pliny.  Because  it 
is  deep  and  rapid,  it  is  called  by  the  Persians  the  "furi- 
ous water."  Its  source  is  near  the  frontier  of  Persia, 
and  it  is  the  great  confluent  of  the  Tigris.  Its  banks 
are  dotted  with  villages,  groves,  and  cultivated  fields. 
Its  volume  is  increased  by  the  melted  snows  on  the 
mountains  of  Kurdistan,  and  then  it  is  difficult  and  dan- 
gerous to  cross.  Over  its  classic  waters  Xenophon  re- 
treated with  his  "ten  thousand,"  and  at  a  subsequent 
period  it  was  crossed  and  recrossed  by  Alexander  and 
Darius  on  the  day  when  their  contending  hosts  fought 
for  empire. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  231 

Our  course  was  to  the  north-west,  and  our  objective 
point  was  the  raft  ferry  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  small 
town  of  Abou  Sheeta.  The  first  sight  of  the  river  had 
cheered  us,  but  the  crossing  was  not  near.  Hope  de- 
ferred begets  impatience.  The  hours  wore  on  wearily. 
We  were  doomed  to  disappointment.  Mosul  could  not 
be  reached  by  sundown.  The  distance  from  the  Zab 
ferry  to  Mosul  is  twenty-seven  miles.  It  was  now  high 
noon,  and  none  could  tell  the  exact  distance  to  the  ferry. 
We  had  been  on  the  road  eight  hours.  All  felt  the 
need  of  rest  and  refreshments.  There  was  no  help  for  us 
but  to  ride  on.  Our  path  lay  across  a  rolling  prairie  of 
apparently  interminable  hills.  We  now  passed  a  small 
Arab  village,  where  the  women  were  winnowing  grain 
and  the  children  were  playing  in  the  flowery  fields.  Be- 
yond was  a  second  village,  where  the  telegraph  wires 
were  stretched  across  the  Zab.  This  gave  us  heart.  In 
less  than  an  hour  the  huts  of  Abou  Sheeta  were  seen  on 
our  left.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  at  the  ferry.  And 
now  came  the  crossing.  Dispatch  was  indispensable. 
The  pasha's  caravan  was  not  fjir  behind  us.  It  would 
require  all  the  afternoon  to  ferry  so  large  a  company 
over.  They  would  claim  precedence,  and  enforce  it  by 
cimeter  and  rifle.  We  must  improve  our  advantage  of 
being  in  advance.  Our  Arabs  understood  this  fact. 
Hence  all  was  hurry  and  confusion,  IChajawahs,  sad- 
dles, and  luggage  were  removed  and  placed  in  a  boat, 
which  seemed  to  have  been  cut  through  the  centre,  and 
the  stern  end  left  open  for  entrance.  Into  this  native 
craft  our  "  elect  lady,"  a  native  woman,  and  sixteen  men 
entered.  Two  horses  and  four  mules  were  tied  to  the 
side  of  the  boat,  and  left  to  do  their  best  to  swim  the 
rapid  stream.  The  Zab  flowed  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles 
an  hour,  and  the  distance  between  the  two  landings  was 


232  THRONES  AND  FALACES   OF 

a  full  mile.  The  signal  was  given,  aud  we  were  swept 
by  tlie  tremendous  current  the  fourth  of  a  mile  down 
the  river.  The  horses  and  mules  struggled  desperately, 
and  we  were  in  danger  of  being  submerged.  Thi'ee 
other  mules  were  driven  into  the  water  without  the  aid 
of  the  boat  to  guide  them ;  but  after  a  trial  they  re- 
turned to  the  shore.  They  were  again  driven  in,  and 
stoned  till  they  found  resistance  useless.  This  time 
they  swam  with  the  current ;  but,  hearing  their  master's 
voice,  they  gradually  turned  toward  the  opposite  shore, 
and  landed  a  mile  below  the  point  of  starting.  It  was 
expensive  crossing  the  Zab  ferry.  The  Arabs  of  the  ad- 
jacent villages  own  the  boat  and  do  the  work;  but  an 
officer  of  the  Turkish  Government  was  stationed  there, 
to  collect  a  heavy  toll  for  each  person  in  the  boat  and 
each  animal  that  swam  the  stream ;  and  had  we  swum 
the  river,  we  would  have  had  to  pay  for  the  privi- 
lege. 

Safely  over,  we  lunched  on  the  green  banks,  where 
flowers  bloomed  to  please  the  eye  and  delight  us  with 
their  odor.  The  pleasure  of  the  hour  was  disturbed  by 
a  war  of  words.  We  desired  to  go  on  as  far  as  possible ; 
but  Jebarah  interposed  all  sorts  of  objections,  notwith- 
standing he  had  promised  to  do  his  best  to  reach  Mosul 
that  night.  It  was  finally  agreed  that  we  should  go  to 
the  next  village,  four  hours  distant.  Our  path  lay  up  a 
narrow  defile  covered  with  loose  white  stones,  which  re- 
flected the  sun  with  terrific  force.  As  we  advanced,  the 
heat  increased  to  almost  melting  power.  Man  and  beast 
sufi^ered  intensely.  But  God  was  merciful.  A  cloud  ap- 
peared in  the  west,  in  the  form  of  an  angel  with  wings 
outspread,  and  spread  one  of  its  great  wings  over  the 
face  of  the  burning  sun.  It  was  the  realization  of  the 
promise :  "  He  shall  cover  thee  with  his  feathers,  and 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  233 

under  his  wings  shalt  thou  trust."*  We  were  in  a 
wild,  hilly  region,  w^here  shepherds  w^andered  with  their 
flocks,  and  the  herdsmen  watched  their  dj'oves  of  cattle 
and  camels. 

At  4  P.M.  we  reached  the  Bumadus,  on  whose  banks 
Darius  encamped  on  the  night  previous  to  the  fatal  bat- 
tle of  Gaugamela ;  and  on  our  right,  and  stretching  far 
away,  were  the  plains  whereon  a  million  and  a  half  of 
men  had  struggled  for  victory.  The  river  is  now  called 
the  Harsar,  and  is  deep,  broad,  and  clear.  The  crossing 
occupied  nearly  an  hour,  and  the  charge  of  the  ferry-mas- 
ter was  twenty  piastres,  only  five  piastres  less  than  we 
had  to  pay  to  cross  the  Zab.  Instead  of  a  boat,  we  now 
had  a  raft  of  ancient  and  novel  construction.    Forty  skins 


EAFT   ON  THE   TIGRIS. 


of  full-grown  sheep  and  goats  had  been  inflated  by  the 
lungs,  through  an  aperture  which  had  been  carefully  tied 
up  with  a  string.  The  skins  had  been  arranged  in  eight 
rows,  and  upon  them  had  been  placed  a  frame-work  of 
the  branches  of  the  poplar  and  oleander,  and  made  fast 
by  twigs  of  the  osier,  and  then  covered  with  green  leaves, 
which  completed  the  construction.     The  raftsmen  guide 

*  Psalm  xci.,  4. 


234    '         THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

these  rude  vessels  by  means  of  long  poles  and  with  per- 
fect safety.  The  idea  is  as  old  as  Nineveh,  for  I  after- 
ward saw  the  raft  of  inflated  skins  among  the  bass-relief 
sculptures  on  the  walls  of  the  ancient  palaces.  Accord- 
ing to  Xenophon,  these  hilleJcs,  or  rafts,  were  used  in  the 
time  of  the  younger  Cyrus  to  navigate  the  Euphrates, 
and  on  such  a  conveyance  a  certain  Rhodian  proposed 
to  transport  the  "  ten  thousand  "  over  the  Tigris.  They 
were  also  used  by  Alexander  the  Great  in  crossing  riv- 
ers while  on  his  victorious  march  throus-h  Asia.  En- 
couraged  by  such  illustrious  examples,  we  stepped  on 
board  the  raft,  and  were  soon  gliding  down  the  Harsar. 
As  we  approached  the  opposite  shore,  a  dozen  naked 
Arabs  swam  to  meet  us,  and  guide  the  raft  from  the 
rapid  current  to  the  sandy  beach. 

It  was  now  five  o'clock.  We  had  been  thirteen  hours 
on  the  road.  All  were  exhausted.  On  the  neighboring 
hills  were  the  black  tents  of  Arab  shepherds,  and  thith- 
er we  prepared  to  go  and  spend  the  night.  But  the 
soldiers  interposed,  followed  by  another  war  of  words. 
They  insisted  that  their  orders  were  to  take  us  to  the 
next  village,  and  not  to  an  encampment  of  shepherds,  and 
they  must  obey.  We  insisted  on  stopping.  They  as- 
sured us  that  the  Bedouins  would  rob  and  murder  us : 
but  our  men  drew  their  long  knives,  and  swore  by  their 
prophet  to  defend  us  and  themselves.  The  scene  was 
tragical.  A  fight  seemed  inevitable.  Night  was  ap- 
proaching. We  were  without  shelter  and  food.  Oui' 
"elect  lady"  required  the  best  of  both,  yet  she  was  the 
most  patient,  gentle,  brave  of  the  company.  Our  men 
carried  the  day.  We  were  again  in  motion.  For  two 
dreary  hours,  and  in  the  dusk  of  the  evening,  we  wan- 
dered over  those  strange  hills  in  search  of  the  shepherds' 
tents.     At  last  their  camp-fires  were  seen  on  the  distant 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


235 


SHEPHERD  S   TENT. 


hills.  As  we  approached,  dogs  l)arked,  children  scream- 
ed, women  ran,  and  men  grasped  their  guns  to  drive  back 
the  intruders.  The  situation  was  not  flattering.  But 
gentle  lips  whispered,  "And  there  were  in  the  same  coun- 
try shepherds  abiding  in  the  field,  keeping  watch  over 
their  flock  by  night.  And,  lo,  the  angel  of  the  Lord 
came  upon  them,  and  the  glory  of  the  Lord  shone  round 
about  them ;  and  they  were  sore  afraid.  And  the  angel 
said  unto  them.  Fear  not :  for,  behold,  I  bring  you  good 
tidings  of  great  joy,  which  shall  be  to  all  people.""^' 


Luke  ii., -8-10. 


236  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

Fatohcli  and   Asliur  rode   in   advance.      Our  wishes 
were  made  known.     The  Arabs  consented.     A  tent  of 
black  cloth  was  vacated  for  our  recej^tion,  wherein  our 
beds  were  spread.    Dinner  was  soon  ready.     Fresh  eggs, 
sweet  milk,  cracked  wheat,  boiled  in  the  rich  milk  of  the 
camel,  composed  the  bill  of  fare.    And  then  w^e  sat  around 
our  camp-fire,  wondering  what  would  be  the  events  of 
the  night  in  that  strange  place.     Observing  a  group  of 
twenty  Arabs  engaged  in  a  low  conversation,  I  approach- 
ed, and,  to  my  surprise  and  delight,  I  found  them  to  be 
Chaldean  Christians!     They  told  me,  "To-morrow  will 
be  Good-Friday,  and  next  Sunday  wnll  be  holy  Easter." 
How  erroundless  had  been  our  fears !    How  beautiful  are 
the  surprises  in  human  life  !    It  was  the  solution  of  Sam- 
son's riddle :  "  Out  of  the  eater  came  forth  meat,  and  out 
of  the  stronnj  came  forth  sweetness."*     The  full  moon 
shone  in  unclouded  beauty  on  the  encampment.      The 
shepherds  arranged  for  a  native  dance.      One  of  their 
number  played  on  a  flute  of  bamboo,  while  the  others 
danced  and  sung  and  clapped  their  hands.     The  dance 
over,  the  chief  shepherd  took  me  by  the  arm  in  a  most 
affectionate  manner,  and  led  me  to  see  by  moonlight  the 
herds  and  flocks  folded  for  the  night.     During  the  day 
all  the  sheep  of  the  large  encampment  feed  together  on 
the  hills  and  in  the  valleys,  whither  they  are  led  by  their 
shepherds;  but  when  they  are  led  home  at  night,  they 
separate  and  gather  in  front  of  their  owners'  tents.     Be- 
fore one  tent  were  ten;  before  another  were  twenty; 
around  a  third  were  fifty.     Just  within  the  open  tent  lay 
the  shepherd,  with  his  gun  resting  on  his  arm,  and  his 
faithful  dog  lying  by  his  side.     He  is  a  soldier-shepherd 
to  protect  liis  flock  from  the  thief  and  from  wild  beasts. 

Judges  xiv.,  14. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  237 

His  sheep  look  to  him  for  care  and  protection,  as  a  child 
looks  to  the  parent.  He  can  distinguish  one  sheep  from 
another,  and  to  each  he  had  given  a  name.  Just  as  a 
child  answers  when  called,  so  his  sheep  came  at  the  sound 
of  his  voice :  "  My  sheej)  know  my  voice ;"  and  "  he  call- 
eth  his  own  sheep  by  name."  To  the  north  of  the  en- 
campment were  folded  some  splendid  white  camels,  and 
by  the  side  of  each  was  a  baby  camel ;  and  beyond  was 
the  sire,  of  immense  size  and  of  great  value. 

During  our  moonlight  stroll,  I  noted  the  construction 
of  the  Arab  tent,  and  the  order  of  the  encampment. 
Each  tent  was  made  of  black  goat -hair  canvas,  sup- 
ported by  poles  down  the  centre  and  on  either  side,  and 
held  in  their  place  by  strong  cords.  The  tents  were  ar- 
ranged in  parallel  lines  close  together,  with  the  sheikh's 
occupying  the  foremost  place,  facing  the  side  from  which 
the  guest,  as  well  as  the  enemy,  is  expected,  that  he  may 
be  the  first  to  exercise  hospitality,  and  the  first  to  meet 
the  foe.  This  position,  however,  is  changed  in  winter, 
when  the  tent  is  closed  completely  on  one  side,  accord- 
ing to  the  prevailing  wind  ;  so  that  when  the  wind 
changes,  the  whole  camp  suddenly,  as  it  were,  turns 
round,  the  last  tent  becoming  the  foremost.  During  the 
warm  weather  the  whole  canvas  is  raised  on  poles,  to 
allow  the  air  to  circulate  freely,  a  curtain  being  nsed  in 
the  morning  and  evening  to  ward  off  the  rays  of  the 
sun.  Rude  as  these  Arab  shepherds  are  in  many  things, 
yet  they  have  their  rules  of  politeness.  It  is  thonght 
indecorous  to  approach  by  the  back  of  a  tent,  or  step 
over  the  tent-ropes,  or  ride.tow^ard  the  woman's  compart- 
ment, which  is  always  on  the  right.  And  the  owner 
has  a  right  to  claim  as  his  guest  any  one  who  passes 
in  front  of  his  tent,  and  would  consider  it  an  insult  to 
pass  by  without  stopping  to  eat  his  bread. 


238  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Returning  to  our  camp-fires,  we  sat  down,  and  con- 
versed about  tlie  habits  and  customs  of  tlie  Bedouins 
who  dwell  in  tents.  They  are  creatures  of  necessity, 
and  their  nomadic  life  is  comj^ulsory,  as  the  existence  of 
their  flocks  and  herds  depends  upon  the  pasturage  they 
can  find.  With  each  change  of  the  season,  they  change 
their  locality  according  to  the  wants  of  their  flocks. 
Ever  subject  to  change,  their  wants  must  be  few,  and 
their  household  fuiiiiture  must  always  be  at  the  min- 
imum, and  such  as  can  be  easily  transported.  Their 
food  is  simple  and  their  raiment  coarse.  When  free 
from  care,  they  are  witty,  cheerful,  and  of  gentle  temper. 
They  are  the  most  incessant  talkers  in  the  world.  Their 
((uickness  of  percej^tion  enables  them  to  appreciate  a 
good  story,  and  they  give  themselves  up  to  immoderate 
laughter.  When  excited  they  gesticulate  in  a  violent 
manner,  and  vociferate  in  explosive  tones.  They  are 
passionate,  and  quick  to  resent  an  insult.  Their  love  of 
money  passes  all  knowledge ;  it  is  an  insatiable  greedi- 
ness; a  ruling  passion  that  knows  no  bounds.  They  are 
generous,  but  theirs  is  a  generosity  inspired  by  the  hope 
of  an  equivalent  in  return.  They  are  a  nation  within  a 
nation.  At  the  head  of  each  tribe  is  a  sheikh  whose 
word  is  law,  and  who  administers  a  rude  justice  among 
his  people.  The  most  common  source  of  litigation  is 
stolen  property ;  the  penalty  is  in  money  or  in  kind,  and 
he  who  gains  the  suit  has  to  pay  the  fee.  They  not  un- 
frequently  test  a  man's  innocence  by  compelling  him  to 
lick  a  red-h®t  iron,  and  if  his  tongue  is  burned  there  is 
no  doubt  of  his  guilt.  One  of  the  most  ancient  laws 
among  them  is  the  law  of  blood,  called  the  Thar,  which 
prescribes  the  degrees  of  consanguinity  within  which  it 
is  lawful  to  revenge  a  homicide.  According  to  this  law, 
any  one  related  to  the  murderer  within  the  fifth  degree 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


239 


is  held  responsible,  and,  altboiigli  this  seems  like  mani- 
fest injustice,  yet  it  tends  to  the  prevention  of  blood- 
shed among  the  wild  tribes  of  the  desert ;  and,  were  it 
not  for  the  operation  of  this  law,  the  warlike  tribes 
would  have  extei'minated  one  another  centuries  ag^o. 
When  a  murder  is  committed,  an  effort  is  made  to 
prevail  on  the  family  of  the  victim  to  accept  a  compen- 
sation for  the  blood  in  money  or  in  kind ;  but  if  the 
"  blood-money  "  is  refused,  then  any  relative  within  the 
fifth    degree    of   consanguinity   may   be   legally   killed. 


ARAB   MAN   AND    WOMAN. 


This  law  has  a  remarkable  effect  upon  the  manners  of 
the  Arabs.  They  are  cautious  in  disclosing  to  a  stran- 
ger their  name,  or  that  of  their  father,  or  their  dwelling- 
place,  lest  they  may  fall  victims  to  the  blood -revenge. 
They  have  another  law  which  is  as  universal,  and  even 
more  salutary.  It  defines  the  relations  between  the  pro- 
tector and  the  protected,  and  a  breach  of  which  is  re- 
garded as  a  lasting  disgrace.  If  a  man  can  touch  the 
canvas  of  a  tent,  or  throw  his  mace  toward  it,  or  touch 


240  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

with  his  teetli  any  article  belonging  to  another,  he  has  a 
right  to  protection ;  especially  if  he  eats  a  man's  salt  or 
bread,  he  is  under  his  protection.  A  woman  can  protect 
any  number  of  j^jersons,  or  even  of  tents,  under  the  oper- 
ation of  this  law. 

Within  the  encampment  were  many  girls  of  a  mar- 
riageable age,  which  naturally  suggested  the  usages  re- 
latins;  to  marriaire.  While  anions^  the  Arabs  of  the 
towns  daughters  are  literally  sold  to  their  husbands,  yet 
a  Bedouin  of  the  desert  will  never  ask  money  for  his 
daughter.  He  may  consult  her  wishes,  but  she  is  at 
liberty  to  accept  or  reject  a  suitor,  provided  he  is  not 
her  cousin.  But  if  the  damsel  accepts  a  present  from 
her  lover,  whether  a  jewel  or  a  donkey,  she  is  bound  to 
have  him. 

At  two  o'clock  the  next  morninsf  we  were  ao;ain  on  the 
road.  The  clouds  separated,  and  the  moon  lighted  up  our 
way  over  the  pasture-fields  of  Karagoosh.  We  soon  re- 
gained the  highway,  and  passed  a  ruined  village.  The 
light  was  sufficient  to  reveal  the  well -cultivated  fields 
on  either  side,  where  the  wheat  was  growing  rich  and 
in  abundance.  But  there  was  a  shade  of  loneliness  in 
a  start  so  early,  and  all  naturally  wished  for  the  morn- 
ing. Hour  after  hour  wore  slowly  away.  At  length  the 
day  dawned;  the  stars  faded;  the  moon  grew 'pale;  the 
sun  rose.  It  was  Good-Friday  in  ancient  Assyria.  We 
were  amidst  the  ruins  of  buried  empires.  On  either 
hand  were  great  mounds  wherein  are  the  remains  of 
former  sjreatness.  The  domes  and  minarets  of  Mosul 
now  appeared  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Tigris.  All  felt 
the  excitement  of  the  moment.  It  was  the  eleventh  day 
since  we  left  Baghdad.  We  had  come  three  hundred  miles. 
Before  us  flowed  the  I'iver  whose  banks  we  hoped  soon 
to  reach ;  but  the  floods  compelled  us  to  make  a  long 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  243 

dntoiir,  aud  defer  the  consummation  of  our  wishes.  Pa- 
tience was  never  more  difficult  to  practice,  and  an  even 
temper  recpiired  au  effort.  We  rode  through  deep  ra- 
vines, crossed  bridges  that  trembled  with  our  weight, 
passed  villages  bereft  of  beauty,  and  encountered  cara- 
vans of  merchants  bound  for  Bagdad.  But  the  goal  was 
not  far.  Au  hour  later,  and  we  were  at  the  gates  of 
ancient  Nineveh.  On  our  right  was  the  palace  of  Sen- 
nacherib ;  on  our  left  was  the  tomb  of  Jonah.  A  mile 
beyond  was  the  landing  w^here  we  waited  for  the  boat. 
Swollen  by  the  vernal  rains  and.  the  melted  snows  on 
northern  mountains,  the  Tigris  rushed  by  with  unwonted 
force.  In  the  bed  of  the  river  are  several  islands,  which 
were  now  nearly  submerged.  From  the  main-land  on 
the  east  to  the  edge  of  the  largest  of  the  sevej'al  chan- 
nels of  the  river,  and  where  the  current  is  strongest  and 
the  stream  deepest,  there  is  a  brick  bridge  supported  by 
forty  arches,  and  constructed  some  two  hundred  years 
ago.  Owing  to  the  rapidity  of  the  current  and  the  ac- 
cumulated waters,  the  main  channel  is  sj^anned  by  a 
bridge  of  boats,  extending  from  the  end  of  the  brick 
bridge  to  the  western  bank  of  the  Tigris.  These  boats 
are  held  together  by  iron  chains,  and  covered  with  planks, 
on  which  earth  is  spread.  When  the  river  is  high,  the 
boats  are  removed,  and  a  ferry  is  established.  And  such 
was  the  case  when  we  reached  the  Tio-ris.  It  was  a  sore 
disappointment,  as  we  had  had  enough  of  Turkish  ferries 
for  all  practical  purposes.  But  it  was  the  harvest-time 
for  the  boatmen,  who  clamored  for  our  patronage  with 
loud  vociferations  and  violent  gestures.  Had  we  been 
Arabs,  we  could  have  crossed  for  one-half  less  than  was 
demanded,  but  we  cheerfully  paid  double  the  amount  for 
the  privilege  of  being  Americans.  The  boat  was  similar 
in  construction  and  form  to  the  one  in  which  we  had 


244 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


crossed  the  Greater  Zal),  but  of  larger  dimensions.  It 
was  a  moment  of  intense  excitement  when  we  entered 
the  swift  current,  with  an  island  on  our  right  and  a  pier 
of  the  brick  bridge  on  our  left,  with  imminent  danger  of 
being  dashed  against  the  latter.  At  such  a  time  minutes 
are  magnified  into  hours.  How  wishfully  we  watched  the 
opposite  shore  !  Never  was  relief  more  sweet  than  when 
the  rude  boat  thumped  against  the  river -bank.  Nor 
was  the  landing-place  inviting — high,  stee]^  banks,  down 


"^(-W:. 


LANDING   AT   MOSUL. 


which  flowed  the  blood  of  slaughtered  sheep,  and  the 
colored  waters  from  the  tanners'  yards  which  lined  the 
bluffs.  It  required  the  aid  of  many  Arabs  to  assist  us 
up  the  slippery  paths ;  and  not  a  few  men  and  boys  prof- 
fered their  aid,  certain  of  a  reward  of  a  few  piasters. 

A  letter  of  introduction  secured  us  a  temporary  home 
in  the  house  of  Abboo  Jizrawee,  dragoman  to  the  Fi'ench 
consulate.  Mr.  Jizrawee  was  a  large,  fine-looking,  richly 
dressed,  genial  Mosulian.      He  was  jovial,  volatile,  talk- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


245 


ative,  of  unbounded  hospitality,  and  popular  with  his 
townsmen.  His  great  fat  face  beamed  with  smiles,  and 
his  laughter  was  uproarious.  His  long  connection  with 
the  consulate  had  made  him  familiar  with  the  manners 
of  foreigners,  and  he  considered  himself  honored  to  be 
the  host  of  three  American  trav^elers.  His  residence  was 
large  and  comfortable,  and  the  guest-chamber  was  the 
best  of  all  his  apartments.  His  wife  was  beautiful,  and 
was  unwearied  in  her  attendance  to  our  "  elect  lady.'"' 


IKTElUOll   OF    A   noUSE   AT  MOSUL. 


Our  apartments  were  furnished  in  Oriental  style.  There 
were  divans  for  bedsteads,  rugs  for  carpets,  elegant  ci me- 
ters and  richly  ornamented  rifles  for  decorations  on  the 
walls. 

It  was  soon  known  in  Mosul  that  Americans  had  ar- 
rived. A  letter  of  introduction  to  Khowaja  Meekha 
brought  that  worthy  Christian  to  our  abode.  He  was 
the  elder  in  the  American  Presbyterian  Mission  Church, 
and  universally  esteemed  for  his  intelligence  and  piety. 
His  generosity  prompted   him   to  invite  Mr.  Collins  to 


246  THBONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

be  his  guest.     He  spoke  English  fluently,  and  was  well 
posted  as  to  the  religious  condition  of  the  city. 

But  a  greater  pleasure  awaited  us.  Mr.  Hormuzd 
Rassam  was  in  Mosul,  and  hastened  to  honor  us  with  a 
call.  A  native  of  Mosul,  he  is  an  accomplished  Oriental 
scholar.  His  preferences  led  him  to  marry  an  English 
lady,  and  he  is  now  a  British  subject.  He  was  associ- 
ated with  Layard  and  Rawlinson  in  Assyrian  excava- 
tions, and  is  mentioned  by  them  in  terms  of  highest  com- 
pliment. He  has  the  honor  of  having  discovered  the 
palace  of  Asshur-bani-pal,  which  contained  the  stone  li- 
brary of  that  king,  which  is  now  in  the  British  Muse- 
um. He  had  returned  to  Mosul  to  settle  the  estate  of 
his  deceased  brother,  who  for  many  years  was  the  English 
vice-consul  in  this  city.  With  a  generosity  we  can  never 
forget,  Mr.  Rassam  invited  us  to  be  his  guests,  in  the  ele- 
gant residence  of  his  departed  brother.  Neither  wealth 
nor  painstaking  had  been  spared  to  make  this  the  abode 
of  comfort.  The  structure  was  in  the  form  of  a  square, 
with  a  court-yard  in  the  centre,  wherein  was  a  beautiful 
garden.  On  the  ground-floor,  and  opening  into  the  court, 
were  the  dining-hall,  reception-room,  and  a  drawing-room 
of  superb  adornments.  The  oval  ceiling  of  the  latter 
was  beautifully  painted  in  blue,  and  ornamented  with 
gilt  vines,  flowers,  and  stars.  Three  lofty  arches  also 
opened  into  the  court,  whose  concave  domes  represented 
the  stardit  heavens.  In  the  second  story,  and  surround- 
ing the  court,  were  marble-paved  balconies,  and  adjoin- 
ing them  were  elegant  sleeping -apartments.  As  a  re- 
treat from  the  intense  heat  of  an  Assyrian  summer,  an 
under-ground  residence  had  been  constructed  of  Mosul 
marble,  and  consisted  of  broad  arches  supported  by 
sculptured  piers.  Within  this  palatial  abode  we  re- 
mained for  a  week,  enjoying  a  hospitality  as  elegant  as 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  247 

it  was  abundant.  Never  did  host  anticipate  the  pleas- 
ure of  his  guests  with  greater  success.  Each  day  some 
new  dish  peculiar  to  the  East  was  served  up  to  tempt 
our  never-indolent  appetites;  and  chief  among  these  fa- 
vorite dishes  was  haimmdk — the  cream  of  the  buffalo's 
milk,  eaten  with  the  white,  hard  Syrian  honey. 

Mosul  occupies  a  portion  of  the  suburbs  of  ancient 
Nineveh,'  but  its  primeval  history  is  unknown.  Xen- 
ophon  mentions  a  castle  as  standing  here,  and  now 
known  as  the  ruins  of  Yarumjah,  and  designates  the  site 
of  Nineveh  as  Mes-pylse,  the  middle  gate  or  pass,  Avhicli 
this  point  of  the  river  has  ever  been ;  but  he  does  not 
allude  to  the  existence  of  a  town.  Although  the  city  is 
scarcely  noticed  in  history  during  the  time  of  the  ca- 
liphs, yet  when  the  Turks  came  into  power,  Mosul  be- 
came the  seat  of  a  race  of  independent  princes,  and  to 
their  times  belong  the  old  Saracenic  structures  which 
still  remain."^'*  During  the  reign  of  Selim  I.  it  became 
part  of  the  Turkish  empire.  In  1554,  Suleiman  the 
Great  made  a  treaty  of  peace  with  the  King  of  Persia, 
by  which  the  city  became  a  boundary  of  his  dominions. 
Since  then  it  has  been  ruled  by  a  class  of  pashas  who 
have  been  despotic  and  rapacious.  Its  present  popula- 
tion of  fifty  thousand  is  composed  of  Chaldeans,  Syrians, 
Arabs,  Turks,  Kurds,  and  elews.  Its  walls  are  less  than 
three  miles  in  circuit,  within  which  are  large  gardens 
and  many  ruins.  The  buildings  are  of  stone,  with 
arched  roofs,  and  with  court -yards  faced  with  slabs  of 
sculptured  alabaster.  Its  streets  are  narrow,  crooked, 
and  never  clean.  Few  cities  have  suffered  greater  vicis- 
situdes. In  1825,  a  famine  prevailed  for  three  years, 
followed  by  the  plague,  which  lasted  nine  months,  and 

*  Ainswortl). 


248  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

during  the  prevalence  of  which  eighteen  thousand  per- 
sons died;  and  in  the  year  1832,  the  whole  city  was 
flooded  for  months,  causing  extraordinary  suffering.  In 
earlier  years,  the  commerce  of  Mosul  was  extensive  and 
lucrative  ;  but  under  the  oppressive  rule  of  the  Turks,  it 
has  dwindled  to  nothing.  The  bazaars  are  well  supplied 
with  grapes,  melons,  pomegranates,  aj)ricots,  cucumbers, 
and  truffles  for  home  consumption,  and  with  gall  -  nuts 
from  the  valonia-oaks  in  Kurdistan,  which  are  exported. 
The  once  famous  Mosul  cloths,  or  muslins,  have  given 
place  to  a  blue  cotton  cloth  of  an  inferior  cjuality.  But 
Mosul  excels  in  the  manufacture  of  red,  yellow,  and 
green  leather  for  the  showy  boots  and  shoes  worn  by 
the  natives. 

Were  a  stranger  to  infer  the  religious  condition  of  a 
town  from  the  number  of  places  of  worship  therein,  he 
would  naturally  conclude  the  Mosulians  to  be  a  de- 
vout people.  According  to  universal  custom  among  the 
Turks,  the  census  is  based  on  the  number  of  fomilies,  and 
not  on  the  number  of  individuals,  and  they  are  classified 
by  their  religious  fixith  rather  than  by  their  nationality. 
Of  the  three  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty  families 
in  Mosul,  two  hundred  are  Jews,  one  thousand  one  hun- 
dred are  Christians,  and  two  thousand  and  fifty  are  Mo- 
hammedans. The  Moslems  have  twenty  large  mosques, 
and  two  hundred  and  fifty  places  for  prayer.  Near  the 
old  I'uined  mosque  of  Noor-el-Deen  is  a  grand  minaret, 
ninety  feet  high,  whose  projecting  and  receding  courses 
of  bricks  represent  a  fancy  work  of  arabesque ;  and, 
whether  by  intention  or  accident, it  leans^WkQ  the  Tower 
of  Pisa. 

The  Christians  are  not  so  numerous  as  their  Moham- 
medan neighbors,  but  superior  to  them  in  thrift  and 
intelligence.      Their  sectarianism  is   j^atent  to  all,  and 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  249 

supported  by  a  zeal  worthy  a  better  cause.  They  are 
known  as  Nestorians,  Jacobites,  Papists,  and  Presbyte- 
rians. Their  numerous  churches  are  largely  attended. 
The  French  Poman  Catholic  church  is  an  imposing 
structure.  It  is  constructed  of  Mosul  marble,  crowned 
with  two  domes,  which  are  supported  by  marble  col- 
umns. The  interior  is  adorned  with  pictures,  and  on 
the  high  altar  is  a  life-size  statue  of  Mary.  I  was  pres- 
ent at  the  eight -o'clock  mass  on  Easter-Sunday.  Two 
French  monks  officiated  on  the  occasion.  Seven  French 
nuns,  in  charge  of  a  large  company  of  native  orphans, 
sat  on  the  rio;ht  of  the  chancel.  The  conojreo-ation  was 
large.  The  men  sat  in  front,  on  the  carpeted  floor,  and 
the  women  sat  in  the  rear.  On  the  preceding  Good- 
Friday,  the  monks  dramatized  the  scene  of  the  Crucifix- 
ion ;  and  on  the  Easter  anniversary  they  presented  to 
the  gaze  of  the  devout  the  empty  tomb  perfumed  with 
flowers,  and  brilliantly  illuminated.  From  Rome  I  went 
to  Chaldea,  and  ^vitnessed  the  worshij)  of  the  Nesto- 
rians,  who  are  by  birth  Chaldeans.  Their  ceremonies  are 
not  unlike  those  of  the  Papists,  but  toward  each  other 
they  cherish  the  most  cordial  antagonism.  The  bitter- 
ness of  their  enmity  springs  from  their  similarity.  They 
are  too  near  alike  to  live  in  peace.  It  was  my  jirivilege 
to  meet  Joseph  Ado,  Patriarch  of  Babylon,  and  Primate 
of  the  Chaldean  Christian  community,  whose  official  resi- 
dence was  formerly  in  Mosul;  but  the  Romish  monks 
intrigued  to  get  him  away,  on  the  principle  that  two  of 
a  trade  could  not  agree.  Ilis  appearance  is  most  vener- 
able, and  he  is  held  in  high  repute  by  the  peoj^le.  He 
is  now  the  Chaldean  Ijishop  of  Malabar,  which  is  more 
nominal  than  real.  He  had  returned  to  his  old  resi- 
dence as  more  congenial  to  his  tastes,  and  spends  his 
time  in  praying,  reading,  and  smoking. 


250 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


It  was  more  in  accord  with  my  sentiments  and  feelings 
to  attend  the  eleven-o'clock  services  in  the  small  church 
wherein  worship  the  members  of  the  American  Presby- 
terian Mission.  Notwithstanding  the  storm,  forty  men 
and  ten  women  were  present,  to  whom  the  native  pastor 
preached  with  commendable  zeal.  The  members  of  this 
little  community  are  among  the  most  intelligent  and  en- 
terprising citizens  of  Mosul.      They  are  a  light  shining 


JOSEPH   ADO. 


in  a  dark  place.  Their  greatest  need  is  the  presence  of 
a  foreign  missionary  to  instruct;  encourage,  and  defend. 
But  this  boon  is  denied  them,  from  an  impression  that 
an  American  missionary  can  not  survive  in  Mosul ;  and 
the  impression  has  been  strengthened  by  the  remaikable 
mortality  which  has  attended  those  who  have  made  the 
attempt.  In  1833,  Eev.  Messrs.  Hinsdale  and  Mitchell, 
witli  their  wives,  were  appointed  to  this  mission ;   but 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  251 

Rev.  Mr.  Mitchell  died  on  the  way,  and  his  wife  died 
within  ten  days  thereafter ;  and  Mr.  Hinsdale  died  after 
a  residence  of  one  year.  Their  place  was  supplied  by 
the  coming  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Lowry,  whose  wife  died  with- 
in a  year  from  the  date  of  his  arrival.  Then  followed 
the  death  of  Dr.  Grant ;  and  at  a  subsequent  period,  the 
death  of  Rev.  Messrs.  Marsh  and  Williams  and  their 
wives ;  and,  still  later,  the  death  of  Rev.  Messrs.  Lobdell 
and  Haskell.  But  old  Elder  Khowaja  Meekha  thinks 
that  these  good  servants  of  the  Lord  would  have  died 
had  they  lived  in  Jerusalem  or  Mardeeu  or  Beirut,  and 
is  strong  in  the  opinion  that  the  little  community  should 
not  be  neglected  because  so  many  missionaries  found 
Mosul  to  be  the  srate  of  heaven  to  their  ascendino;  souls. 
The  Monday  and  Tuesday  succeeding  Easter-Sunday 
are  holidays  with  the  Christians  of  Mosul,  and  are  de- 
voted to  exchang-ing;  calls,  not  unlike  our  calls  on  New- 
year's-day.  They  are  festive  days,  and  in  each  house  a 
feast  of  fat  thing's  awaits  the  callers.  Mr.  Rassam  had 
provided  for  his  many  guests  with  that  good  taste  and 
elegance  so  characteristic  of  himself.  It  was  a  favorable 
opportunity  for  us  to  observe  the  social  customs  preva- 
lent in  this  far-off  Assyrian  city,  and  especially  the  rich 
costumes  of  the  Chaldean  ladies.  The  weather  was 
charming,  and  the  ladies  appeared  in  all  the  gorgeous- 
ness  peculiar  to  the  East.  The  display  was  reserved  en- 
tirely for  the  house.  They  appeared  at  the  portal  of  the 
court  wrapped  in  a  huge  checkered  blue  sheet,  and  with 
the  face  hidden  beneath  a  square  horse -hair  veil;  but 
these  were  removed  as  they  entered  the  court,  and  then 
was  displayed  the  splendor  of  their  attire.  The  high 
head-dress  was  resplendent  with  gold  and  pearls ;  the 
necklaces  were  elaborately  wrought ;  the  frontlets,  ank- 
lets, and  bracelets  sparkled  with  the  richest  gems;  the 


252  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

bust  aiul  arms  were  covered  with  the  finest  lace  in- 
wrought with  gold,  and  their  ample  robes  of  silk  were 
embroidered  with  gold  and  silver  thread  in  many  a  cu- 
rious device.  The  youthful  wife  of  Mr.  Rassam's  eldest 
brother  was  adorned  like  the  daughter  of  a  king.  But 
these  outward  adoi'nments  were  the  least  of  their  many 
charms.  Nature  had  left  the  impress  of  beauty  on  each 
lovely  face,  and  bequeathed  to  each  a  grace  of  carriage 
worthy  of  an  Esther.  Nor  had  the  mind  and  heart  been 
neglected.  Their  conversation  evinced  an  appreciation 
of  the  beautiful  and  the  true ;  their  graceful  deportment 
was  proof  of  the  careful  culture  of  the  refined  amenities 
of  social  life ;  and  the  joyousness  of  their  smile  bespoke 
a  soul  conversant  with  the  higher  and  better  sentiments 
of  our  humanity. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  253 


CHAPTER  V. 

Among  the  Ruins  of  Ancient  Nineveh. — Historical  and  Scriptural  Allusions. 
— Nimrod,  the  Mighty  Hunter. — Asshur  and  his  Colony. — Extent  and  Du- 
ration of  the  Assyrian  Empire. — Extent  and  Glory  of  Nineveh.^ — Its  "Walls, 
Gates,  and  Palaces. — Identity  of  its  Ruins. — Jonah's  Visit  to  Nineveh. — 
His  Mission  and  his  Tomb. — Sail  down  the  Euphrates. — Beautiful  Scen- 
ery.— Selamiyah. — Donkey-ride. — Birthi)lace  of  Saladin. — Great  Image  of 
Nebuchadnezzar. — Exploring  the  Ruins. — Tower  of  Nimroud. — Ancient 
Temples. — Wonderful  Sculptures. — Palacte  of  Asshurizir-pal. — Splendid 
Remains.  —  Palaces  of  Shalmaneser  II.,  and  of  Tiglath-pileser  II.  —  The 
Marble  Obelisk. — Palace  of  Esarhaddon.  —  God  Nebo. — Horrid  Night 
with  the  Arabs. — Return  to  Mosul. — Grand  Palace  of  Sennacherib,  and 
its  Magnificent  Sculpture. — Annals  and  Will  of  Sennacherib. — Palace  of 
Sardanapalus,  and  its  Splendid  Bass-reliefs. — Assyrian  Wars. — Fall  of 
Nineveh.— The  Last  Battle.— Prophecy  Fulfilled. 

Seven  days  among  the  ruins  of  ancient  Nineveh  gave 
me  the  rare  opportunity  to  trace  its  walls,  to  stand  with- 
in its  monumental  gates,  to  wander  through  its  excavated 
palaces  and  examine  their  sculptured  halls,  to  recall  the 
mighty  past,  to  read  prophecy  in  the  light  of  modern 
discoveries,  and  compare  Herodotus  with  Isaiah,  Ctesias 
^vith  Nahum,  and  Diodorus  with  Jonah.  The  three 
sources  of  information  as  to  the  origin,  extent,  and  fall 
of  the  Assyrian  empire  are,  the  Bible,  the  Greek  histo- 
rians, and  the  cuneiform  inscriptions.  These  authorities 
synchronize  in  the  main,  and  supplement  each  other. 
The  earliest  record  of  the  empire  of  Assyria,  in  authen- 
tic history,  is  by  Moses,  in  the  tenth  chapter  of  Genesis. 
The  allusion  thereto  is  brief,  but  definite  :  "  Out  of  that 
land  went  forth  Asshur,  and  builded  Nineveh,  and  the 
city  Rehoboth,  and  Calah,  and  Resen  between  Nineveh 


254  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

aud  Calali :  the  same  is  a  great  city."*  It  is  apparent, 
from  this  concise  statement,  that  Asshur  was  a  colonist, 
and  the  founder  of  Nineveh.  "Out  of  that  land  went 
forth  Asshur,"  is  an  expression  that  clearly  indicates  the 
existence  of  an  antecedent  kingdom.  That  kingdom  was 
founded  by  Ninirod  in  the  land  of  Shinar,  the  lower 
section  of  the  great  valley  between  the  Tigris  and  the 
Euphrates,  and  near  the  confluence  of  those  two  historic 
rivers.  The  sacred  historian  is  no  less  concise  than  def 
inite  in  his  allusion  to  that  fact :  "And  Cush  begat  Nim- 
rod:he  began  to  be  a  mighty  one  in  the  earth.  And 
the  beo-innins:  of  his  king;dom  was  Babel,  and  Erech,  and 
Accad,  and  Calneh,  in  the  land  of  Shinar."f  That  was 
the  first  kingdom  established  subsequent  to  the  Flood, 
and  probably  about  two  thousand  four  hundred  years 
befoi'e  tlie  Christian  era.  The  Tower  of  Babel  is  the 
only  remaining  monument  of  the  oldest  empire  known 
to  mankind,  and  of  the  identity  of  that  tower  there  is 
but  little  doubt.  From  a  point  so  advantageous  in  lo- 
cation, the  "  mighty  hunter "  rapidly  spread  his  domin- 
ion inland  and  northward ;  and  other  cities  than  Bab- 
ylon were  founded  by  him,  who  is  among  the  foremost 
men  of  the  Old  World,  and  whose  memory  will  last 
while  time  endures.  Even  now  his  name  is  mentioned 
with  reverence  by  the  people  of  Chaldea,  and  wherever 
a  mound  of  ashes  or  an  extraordinary  ruin  is  to  be  seen 
in  Babylonia  or  the  adjoining  regions,  the  local  traditions 
attach  to  it  the  name  of  Nimrod.  J 

From  the  dominions  of  the  "  mighty  huntei',"  Asshur 
went  forth  and  laid  the  foundations  of  a  rival  empire, 
whose  remains  are  now  exciting  the  attention  of  the  civ- 
ilized world.     Whether  his  emigration  was  voluntary  or 

*  Genesis  x.,  11, 12.  t  Genesis  x.,  8, 10.  X  Rawlinson. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  255 

compulsory,  or  in  obedience  to  a  royal  decree  of  Nimrod, 
are  facts  not  known  to  history ;  but  that  the  Assyrians 
and  Babylonians  were  of  a  common  origin,  and  that  the 
former  were  colonists  from  the  land  of  the  latter,  is  evi- 
dent from  the  similarity  of  religion,  of  language,  and  of 
architecture.  And  whether  this  colonization  took  place 
two  thousand  two  hundred  years  before  our  era,  or  one 
thousand  four  hundred  years,  is  a  point  on  which  the 
Assyrian  archaeologists  do  not  agree.  At  present  the 
weis^ht  of  the  evidence  favors  the  earlier  of  the  two 
dates;  and,  accordingly,  the  empire  of  Assyria  continued 
during  fifteen  centuries,  or  from  b.c.  2182  to  B.C.  606. 
The  grandeur  of  such  a  duration  has  scarcely  a  parallel 
in  history.  Rome,  whether  kingdom,  commonwealth,  or 
empire,  lasted  but  twelve  centuries.  The  Chaldean 
monarchy  endured  but  a  thousand  years,  from  Nimrod 
to  Tiglathi-Nin.  The  first  Persian  empire  continued  less 
than  two  and  a  half  centuries.  The  kingdom  of  Baby- 
lon, founded  by  the  father  of  Nebuchadnezzar,  did  not 
survive  a  century.  The  continuity  of  Egypt  was  inter- 
rupted by  foreign  domination ;  and  the  same  is  true  of 
China.  It  is  thought  that  there  are  sufiicient  grounds 
for  the  conjecture  that  there  w^ere  two  distinct  Assyrian 
dynasties — the  first  commencing  with  Asshur,  and  end- 
ing with  Sardanapalus;  and  the  second,  including  the 
kings  mentioned  in  the  Scrijitures,  and  ending  with  Sar- 
acus,  in  whose  reign  Nineveh  was  finally  destroyed  by 
the  combined  armies  of  Persia  and  Babylon.'"' 

But  of  the  extent  and  magnificence  of  the  empire  of 
the  Assyrians  there  is  greater  certainty.  While  the  true 
heart  of  Assyria  was  on  the  banks  of  the  Tigris,  and 
within  the  limits  of  the  four  great  cities,  marked  by  the 

*  Layard. 


256  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

mounds  at  Knyuujik,  Nimroud,  Khorsabad,  and  Karamles ; 
yet  from  tins  inipe.rial  centre  the  empire  extended 
eastward  to  the  Kurdistan  Mountains,  southward  to  the 
Greater  Zab,  westward  to  the  Euphrates,  and  northward 
to  Mount  Masius.  The  probable  area  was  not  less  than 
seventy-five  thousand  square  miles,  the  length  of  which 
area  from  north  to  south  was  less  than  three  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  and  the  breadth  from  east  to  west  not 
more  than  three  hundred  miles.  But  this  was  only,  as 
it  were,  the  base  from  which  her  kings  went  forth  to 
subdue  other  realms,  and  extended  their  dominion  from 
the  Persian  Gulf  to  the  Caspian  Sea,  and  from  the  west- 
ern provinces  of  Persia  to  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean. There  was  a  time  when  the  Assyrian  kings 
held  in  vassalage,  and  received  tribute  from,  Susiana, 
Chaldea,  Babylonia,  Media,  Mesopotamia,  Armenia,  Cap- 
padocia,  Cilicia,  Syria,  Phoenicia,  Palestine,  Idumea,  Ara- 
bia, nearly  all  of  Egypt,  a  portion  of  Ethiopia,  and  the 
rich  island  of  Cyprus.  The  records  of  these  conquests 
are  sculptured  in  alabaster  on  the  walls  of  the  royal  pal- 
aces in  Nineveh,  and  thereon,  in  bass-relief,  may  be  seen 
the  king  in  his  triumphal  chariot,  the  conquering  army 
returning  laden  with  the  spoils  of  victory,  the  long  line 
of  captives,  and  the  bearers  of  the  tribute  from  the  con- 
quered nations. 

It  was  with  no  ordinaiy  zest  that  I  wandered  through 
the  ruined  palaces  of  an  empire  whose  dominion  was  so 
vast,  and  whose  power  had  been  felt  in  regions  so  re- 
mote. The  identity  of  these  ruins,  as  marking  the  re- 
mains of  Nineveh,  is  no  longer  called  in  question  ;  but 
the  extent  of  the  imperial  city  is  still  a  matter  of  dis- 
pute. The  historian  Kawlinson  is  disposed  to  limit  the 
city  to  the  mounds  opposite  Mosul,  and  to  regard  the  ad- 
jacent mounds  as  marking  so  many  distinct  royal  cities ; 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  257 

but  Mr.  Layard  regards  them  as  parts  of  one  grand  me- 
tropolis, "  called  by  different  names,  but  included  within 
the  area  of  that  great  city  known  to  the  Jews  and  to  the 
Greeks  as  Nineveh."  In  the  days  of  its  glory,  when  it 
was  "an  exceeding  great  city,"  Nineveh  described  an  ob- 
long square,  eighteen  miles  long  and  twelve  miles  broad. 
The  circuit  of  the  vast  quadrangle  was  sixty  miles,  and 
the  inclosed  area  two  hundred  and  sixteen  square  miles, 
about  ten  times  that  of  London.  The  four  corners  of  the 
square  were  marked  by  the  magnificent  palaces  of  Ku- 
yunjik,  Nimroud,  Khorsabad,  and  Kai'amles,  whose  abid- 
ing ruins  bespeak  their  pristine  grandeur.  Nimroud  is 
supposed  to  represent  the  original  site  of  the  city,  and 
from  that  point  the  city  was  gradually  extended  as  the 
population  increased  and  the  demands  of  the  empire 
multiplied.  It  "\vas  an  ancient  custom  that  when  a  king 
founded  a  new  dynasty,  or  was  ambitious  to  perpetuate 
his  name,  he  signalized  the  former,  and  sought  the  latter, 
by  the  erection  of  a  new  and  grander  palace.  So  with 
the  Assyrian  kings.  To  the  first  palace  the  son  of  its 
founder  added  a  second,  and  therein  recorded  his  name. 
Subsequent  monarchs  followed  the  same  rule ;  which  ac- 
counts for  the  number  and  magnificence  of  the  palaces 
whose  remains  have  been  exhumed  at  the  four  corners  of 
the  Assyrian  capital.^  Although  Nineveh  is  said  to  have 
contained  an  area  ten  times  that  of  London,  yet  it  is  not 
probable  that  the  whole  space  inclosed  was  occupied 
with  dwellings.  To  the  many  palaces  were  attached 
parks,  wherein  game  was  kept  for  the  diversion  of  the 
king.  Within  the  larger  inclosure  were  extensive  gar- 
dens and  much  arable  land.  This  w^as  true  of  Babylon, 
within  whose  precincts  was  space  sufficient  for  the  culti- 
vation of  corn  enough  to  supply  the  whole  population 
in  case  of  siege.      Nineveh  was  a  walled  city  of  gar- 

17 


258  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

dens,  parks,  orchards,  and  farms.  The  smaller  and  larger 
dwellings  of  the  people  were  arranged  in  villages,  which 
formed  so  many  garden  districts.  The  dimensions  of  an 
Eastern  city  do  not  bear  the  same  proportion  to  its  pop- 
ulation as  those  of  an  American  or  European  city.  Nin- 
eveh might  have  been  larger  than  London,  Paris,  or  New 
York  now  is,  yet  the  population  might  have  been  much 
less.  The  rural  character  of  the  Assyrian  capital  is  more 
than  intimated  by  the  concluding  words  of  the  book  of 
Jonah,  that  within  the  city  were  "  much  cattle." 

Around  the  city  were  walls  of  extraordinary  dimen- 
sions, and  at  certain  distances  were  immense  gates,  flank- 
ed by  towers,  and  adorned  with  human -headed  bulls 
and  lions.  According  to  Herodotus  and  Diodorus  Sicu- 
lus,  the  walls  were  a  hundred  feet  high,  and  sufficiently 
broad  for  three  chariots  to  be  driven  abreast  thereon. 
There  w^ere  fifteen  hundred  towers,  each  two  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  in  them  troops  were  stationed  for  the 
defense  of  the  capital.  The  walls  were  probably  con- 
structed of  bricks  of  clay  dried  in  the  sun ;  or  they  may 
have  been  earthen  ramparts  cased  with  stone  slabs  at  the 
base,  and  with  bricks  from  the  stone  casings  to  the  top. 
Although  the  relative  positions  of  the  mounds  of  Ku- 
yunjik,  Nimroud,  Karamles,  and  KhorsaVjad  form  very 
nearly  a  perfect  parallelogram,  yet  the  walls  which  once 
inclosed  the  same  can  not  now  be  traced  in  their  en- 
tirety. There  are,  however,  consecutive  mounds  whose 
present  breadth  of  base  proves  their  former  magnitude. 
They  can  be  traced  for  many  miles  in  extent ;  they  have 
an  average  height  of  fifty  feet,  and  are  now  sufficiently 
broad  on  the  top  for  the  free  movement  of  three  chariots 
abreast. 

We  have  the  testimony  of  two  prophets  touching  the 
strength  and  size  of  Nineveh.      Nahum  alludes  to  its 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  259 

"  strongholds  "  and  "  barred  gates,"  whicli  doubtless  re- 
fers to  its  fortified  palaces,  and  its  immense  gate -ways, 
flanked  by  towers  capable  of  holding  many  troops,  and 
deemed  imi3regnable.^''  But  the  more  extended  account 
is  recorded  in  the  book  of  Jonah.  In  his  mild  rebuke 
to  the  offended  prophet,  the  Lord  inquires :  "  Should  not 
I  spare  Nineveh,  that  great  city,  wherein  are  more  than 
sixscore  thousand  persons  that  can  not  discern  between 
their  right  hand  and  their  left  hand,  and  also  much  cat- 
tle !"f  If  the  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  persons 
herein  described  were  children,  then  the  total  population 
was  not  less  than  six  hundred  thousand,  which  would 
have  constituted  Nineveh  "an  exceeding  great  city." 
But  if  the  phrase  is  to  be  understood  as  descriptive  of 
moral  ignorance,  then  a  city  containing  a  population  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  adults  who  could  not 
"  discern  between  their  right  hand  and  their  left  hand," 
would  be  no  less  worthy  of  the  title  "  great,"  as  it  is  rea- 
sonable to  suppose  that  the  children  were  not  included 
in  the  number ;  and  it  is  equally  reasonable  to  conclude 
that  there  were  many  thousands  of  adults  who  could  dis- 
cern between  good  and  evil.  It  is,  therefore,  fair  to  infer 
that  such  a  population  could  not  be  accommodated  with- 
in the  ascertained  limits  of  any  one  of  the  four  great  sec- 
tions of  the  ancient  city. 

In  another  place  it  is  said,  "  Now  Nineveh  was  an 
exceeding  great  city  of  three  days'  journey ,"J  which  is 
an  intended  description  of  a  cit}^  of  unusual  size.  The 
passage  may  imply  that  it  required  three  days  to  trav- 
erse the  city  from  end  to  end,  or  to  traverse  its  circum- 
ference, or  to  visit  its  four  principal  centres.  Of  the 
commencement  of  his  Divine  mission  it  is  said :  "And 

*  Nahum  iii.,  13,  14.  f  Jonah  iv.,  11.  X  Jonah  iii.,  3. 


260  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

Jonah  began  to  enter  into  the  city  a  day's  journey,  and 
he  cried,  and  said.  Yet  forty  days,  and  Nineveh  shall 
be  overthrown."*  Coming  on  his  solemn  errand,  it  is 
probable  that  the  prophet  entered  the  city  at  Kuyun- 
jik,  through  whose  lengthened  streets  he  went  a  "  day's 
journey,"  impressively  proclaiming  the  coming  doom. 
Having  delivered  his  solemn  warning  in  Kuyunjik,  the 
prophet  passed  southward  eighteen  miles,  to  Nimroud ; 
thence  to  the  north-east  twelve  miles, to  Karamles;  thence 
to  the  north  eighteen  miles,  to  Khorsabad ;  and  thence  to 
the  west  twelve  miles,  to  Kuyunjik,  which  completed  the 
circuit  of  the  city  of  sixty  miles ;  and,  as  twenty  miles 
is  a  day's  journey  in  the  East,  we  have  here  "  the  three 
days'  journey "  of  the  prophet,  which  is  a  remarkable 
coincidence  with  the  well -ascertained  measurements  of 
the  city. 

And  there  is  another  interpretation  of  this  passage, 
as  simple  as  it  is  rational.  Having  entered  Nineveh  at 
Kuyunjik,  the  prophet  may  have  gone  in  silence  "a  day's 
journey"  to  Nimroud,  and  from  that  point  commenced 
the  circuit  of  the  city,  proclaiming  as  he  went  the  terri- 
ble message  of  Heaven.  Whether  he  accomplished  his 
mission  in  three  days  or  three  weeks  is  a  fact  not  stated 
in  the  text;  nor  would  the  time  he  occupied  aflect  the 
statement  that  "  Nineveh  was  a  great  city  of  three  days' 
journey."  But,  as  his  solemn  business  required  dis- 
patch— the  "  forty  days  "  to  date  from  the  last  utter- 
ances which  fell  upon  the  ear  of  an  astonished  people 
from  his  inspired  lips  —  it  is  highly  probable  that  he 
uttered  his  last  note  of  warning  on  the  evening  of  the 
third  day. 

In   whose  reign  these  words  of  awful  import  were 

*  Jonah  iii.,  4. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  261 

uttered  by  the  prophet,  we  have  no  certain  knowledge. 
His  visit  to  the  Ninevites  may  have  been  in  the  year 
840  B.C.,  during  the  flourishing  reign  of  Shahnaneser  II., 
or  a  hundred  years  later,  when  Sardanapalus  was  on  the 
throne,  livino;  in  inorlorions  ease  and  vicious  indulo:ences. 
careless  of  his  cro^vn,  and  indifterent  to  the  welfare  of 
his  people  and  his  obligations  to  his  God.  In  either 
case,  it  was  at  a  time  when  the  magnificence  of  Nineveh 
excited  the  admiration  of  the  world ;  when  her  massive 
walls  and  lofty  towers  inspired  a  sense  of  security ; 
when  her  royal  palaces  were  adorned  with  those  ex- 
traordinary sculptures  and  inscriptions  which  have  since 
been  exhumed ;  when  her  temples  were  resplendent 
with  all  that  art  could  create  and  wealth  procure ; 
when  her  vast  gardens  were  laden  with  the  fruits,  and 
bloomed  with  the  flowers  of  the  East ;  when  her  mer- 
chants were  princes,  and  her  citizens  proud  of  their 
wealth ;  when  her  inclosed  parks  were  filled  with  game 
for  the  diversion  of  the  king  and  his  nobles ;  when  the 
voice  of  revelry  resounded  through  her  streets,  and  each 
returning  night  was  spent  in  scenes  of  merriment;  when 
captives  from  all  nations  were  the  slaves  of  their  con- 
querors, and  the  spoils  of  victory  had  rendered  a  great 
people  vain  and  luxurious.  It  was  doubtless  at  such  a 
time  when  the  pale,  haggard,  travel-stained  seer  of  Ju- 
dea  appeared  in  their  midst,  like  a  visitant  from  another 
world.  Twenty-seven  centuries  have  since  passed  away. 
Nineveh  is  now  a  mass  of  ruins;  the  memory  of  her 
mighty  kings  is  perpetuated  by  no  recognized  mauso- 
leum ;  but  the  name  of  the  Hebrew  prophet  has  out- 
lived the  lapse  of  time  and  the  fall  of  empires.  .Oppo- 
site Mosul  is  the  traditional  Tomb  of  Jonah.  On  one 
of  the  mounds  of  Kuyunjik  is  a  mosque,  and  within  the 
mosque  is  the  tomb  of  the  prophet.     The  square  sar- 


262  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

cophagus  is  covered  with  a  green  cloth,  embroidered 
with  sentences  from  the  Koran,  and  around  it  are  the 
emblems  of  affection  and  respect.  From  that  monnd 
have  been  exhumed  colossal  human-headed  bulls,  figures 
of  the  Assyrian  Hercules  slaying  a  lion,  and  inscriptions 
containing  the  name  and  titles  of  the  great  Esar-haddon. 
And  thus  npon  one  of  the  buried  palaces  of  Assyria  is 
the  supposed  tomb  of  the  immortal  seer  of  Judea. 

From  a  review  of  these  important  historic  facts,  we 
turned  to  explore  the  remains  of  the  ancient  city.  Send- 
ing our  horses  across  the  Tigris,  in  charge  of  Bene-Jeb- 
arah,  with  instructions  to  meet  us  at  Nimroud,  we  char- 
tered a  native  boat,  and  were  borne  southward  by  the 
rapid  current.  Our  crew  consisted  of  six  men  and  a 
boy,  and  the  cost  was  two  hundred  and  twelve  piasters. 
We  w^ere  attended  by  Khowaja  Meekha  and  his  son, 
who  were  our  interpreters,  and  an  Arab  who  had  exca- 
vated under  Messrs.  Layard  and  Rassam.  Our  depart- 
ure had  been  delayed  by  the  inevitable  discussion  and 
boisterous  talking  of  the  boatmen.  What  talkers  the 
Arabs  are  !  They  are  bound  to  discuss  a  subject  down 
to  the  least  point  before  they  decide  a  question,  and 
each  man  present,  whether  boatman,  soldier,  or  tanner, 
must  "speak  his  little  piece."  To  our  relief,  the  last 
man  had  spoken  the  last  word,  and  we  swung  out  into 
the  swift  current,  and  were  soon  di'ifting  at  the  rate  of 
eight  miles  an  hour.  Just  south  of  Mosul,  and  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Tigris,  are  the  Turkish  barracks,  where 
the  soldiers  were  preparing  for  the  morning  drill.  Far 
out  in  the  centre  of  the  current  was  a  man  floating 
on  an  inflated  goat  -  skin,  using  his  lower  limbs  for  a 
rudder.  He  was  a  farmer  going  to  his  farm,  which  was 
some  miles  below,  on  the  eastern  shore.  He  held  the 
inflated  skin  under  his  arms,  and  across  his  breast.     He 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  263 

conversed  and  laiio^hed  with  our  boatmen,  with  as  much 
composure  and  sense  of  safety  as  one  sailing  on  the 
Great  Eastern.  It  is  customary  for  both  men  and 
women  to  carry  about  them  a  goat -skin,  and,  when 
they  wish  to  cross  a  stream  or  descend  a  river,  they  in- 
flate the  skin,  and  sail  away.  And  this  is  a  very  ancient 
custom,  as  I  have  seen  the  same  portrayed  in  the  bass- 
reliefs  on  the  walls  at  Kuyunjik. 

Far  away  among  the  western  hills,  we  observed  a  car- 
avan of  camels  en  route  for  Mosul.  An  hour  later,  we 
landed  at  Tel-Sabbat  (the  Hill  of  the  Sabbath),  and  pro- 
ceeded to  visit  the  Sulphur  Springs.  At  the  base  of  the 
beautiful,  conical  hill,  fifty  feet  high,  and  covered  with 
grass  and  flowers,  is  a  small  village,  and  near  the  shore 
are  the  Hot  Springs.  The  water  is  black  as  ink,  and  of 
a  high  temperature.  Over  the  springs  is  a  stone  build- 
incr,  crowned  with  a  series  of  small  domes.  The  water  is 
contained  in  a  circular  room  twenty  feet  in  diameter, 
whose  roof  is  a  dome.  There  was  a  strong  smell  of  sul- 
phur as  we  entered  the  inclosure.  The  water  is  regarded 
as  efficacious  to  cure  cutaneous  diseases.  Six  lepers  were 
there  testing  its  efficacy,  and  who  implored  our  charity. 
Having  resumed  our  voyage,  the  boat  was  driven  against 
an  island  by  the  force  of  the  current.  Our  boatmen 
leaped  into  the  water,  and,  after  a  hard  and  long  strug- 
gle, succeeded  in  getting  it  afloat  again. 

As  we  descended  the  river,  the  scenery  increased  in  in- 
terest. On  our  left  was  Assyria ;  on  our  right  was  Mes- 
opotamia. The  landscape  was  variegated  by  green  hills, 
rich  valleys,  winding  streams,  small  hamlets,  and  culti- 
vated fields.  At  noon  we  landed  at  the  small  village 
of  Selamiyah,  supposed  to  mark  the  site  of  "  Resin  "  of 
Scripture,  and  once  important  as  a  commercial  centre. 
It  is  now  a  miserable  Arab  town,  but  surrounded  with 


264  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

mounds  which  indicate  the  antiquity  of  the  site.  As 
our  horses  had  not  arrived,  we  called  on  the  Sheikh  of 
Selamiyah,  and  offered  a  good  price  for  mules  to  carry 
us  to  Nimroud,  three  miles  distant ;  but  his  demand  be- 
ing exorbitant,  we  started  on  foot.  On  the  way  we 
were  overtaken  by  a  peasant  with  four  donkeys,  who 
gladly  accepted  five  piastres  for  a  ride  to  the  ruins. 
Within  an  hour  thereafter,  I  stood  upon  the  pyramid 
which  Xenophon  saw,  and  which  he  describes.  The  view 
was  extensive,  and  the  prospect  pleasing.  The  vast  and 
fertile  plains  of  Assyria  stretched  away  for  miles,  rich  in 
meadow  lands  and  fields  of  grain,  dotted  w^ith  villages 
and  diversified  with  ancient  mounds.  The  Tigris  flowed 
rapidly  within  a  mile  to  the  west,  and  the  snow-capped 
mountains  of  Media  appeared  in  the  distant  east.  West 
of  the  river,  and  forty  miles  to  the  south,  were  the  mounds 
of  Kalah  Sherghat,  supposed  to  mark  the  most  ancient 
of  all  the  Assyrian  cities,  and  founded  by  Asshur  him- 
self On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  ten  miles 
beyond,  was  Tekrit,  the  birthplace  of  the  great  Saladin, 
the  son  of  a  Kurdish  chief,  and  the  conqueror  of  the  Cru- 
saders at  the  battle  of  Kurun  Hattin,  and  which  is  the 
supposed  site  where  "Nebuchadnezzar  the  king  made 
an  image  of  gold,  whose  height  was  three-score  cubits, 
and  the  breadth  thereof  six  cubits :  he  set  it  up  in  the 
plain  of  Dura,  in  the  province  of  Babylon,"  and  com- 
manded that  "  whoso  falleth  not  down  and  worshipeth 
shall  the  same  hour  be  cast  into  the  midst  of  a  burning 
fiery  furnace."* 

From  the  summit  of  the  pyramid,  I  could  best  survey 
the  remains  of  Nimroud,  considered  the  most  ancient  of 
the  four  great  sections  of  Nineveh,  and  founded  by  Shal- 

*  Daniel  iii.,  1,  6. 


rj'i  i  '  i-'Ff  >'^  I 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


2G' 


maneser  I.,  about  one  thousand  three  hundred  years  be- 
fore our  era.  The  ruins  now  cover  an  area  equal  to  one 
thousand  acres,  and  in  their  general  outline  describe  an 
irregular  quadrangle,  whose  sides  face  the  four  cardinal 
points.  On  the  north  and  east  could  be  traced  the  old 
rampart,  once  flanked  with  towers,  and  pierced  with 
gates.     The  royal  quarter  of  the  city,  occupied  by  the 


TUNNEL  IN  THE  TOWER  OF  NIMKOUD. 

palaces  of  the  kings,  was  on  the  west,  bounded  by  the 
Tigris,  which,  no  doubt,  once  flowed  close  to  the  city 
walls.  On  a  raised  platform,  forty  feet  high,  and  cover- 
ing an  area  of  sixty  acres,  constructed  of  sun-dried  bricks, 
and  incased  with  solid  stone  masonry,  were  erected  the 
palaces  of  successive  monarchs,  and  two  temples  dedi- 


268  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

cated  to  the  gods  of  Assyria.  At  its  north-west  angle  is 
the  Tower  of  Nimroiid,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high, 
and  the  fourth  of  a  mile  in  circumference.  Descending 
from  its  summit,  we  entered  its  deep,  long  trenches,  made 
for  purposes  of  exploration.  Its  foundations  are  con- 
structed of  large,  square  blocks  of  stone,  laid  upon  each 
other  without  mortar.  At  the  north-west  corner  is  a 
circular  projection  or  bastion ;  and  in  the  interior  of  the 
tower  is  a  gallery,  six  feet  broad,  twelve  feet  high,  and 
one  hundred  feet  long,  which  some  suppose  leads  to  the 
tomb  of  the  king,  but  that  has  not  yet  been  discovered. 
Adjoining  this  tower  are  the  remains  of  two  temples, 
whose  portals  were  guarded  by  colossal  lions,  and  whose 
walls  were  ornamented  with  sacred  figures  and  sculp- 
tured inscriptions.  The  sculptured  lions  measured  six- 
teen and  a  half  feet  high  and  fifteen  feet  long,  and  were 
flanked  by  winged  figures,  and  between  them  was  an 
inscribed  pavement  slab  of  alabaster.  At  a  second  en- 
trance was  a  group  designed  to  represent  the  expulsion 
of  the  evil  spirit  by  the  good  deity.  The  rej^resentation 
of  the  bad  spirit  is  hideous  in  the  extreme.  The  mon- 
ster's head  is  as  frightful  as  it  is  fanciful.  The  ears  are 
long  and  pointed ;  the  jaws  are  distended,  and  armed 
with  huge  teeth.  The  body  is  covered  with  feathers; 
the  forefeet  are  those  of  a  lion ;  the  hind  legs  terminate 
with  the  talons  of  an  eagle  ;  it  has  spreading  wings, 
and  the  tail  of  a  bird.  It  is  pursued  by  a  winged  man 
dressed  in  fur,  and  bearing  in  each  hand  a  three-forked 
thunder-bolt,  which  he  is  represented  as  hurling  against 
the  monster,  who  had  turned  tow\ard  him  with  an  ex- 
pression of  the  utmost  fury.  Near  the  temple  stood  a 
solid  block  of  limestone,  representing  the  king  in  high- 
relief.  It  is,  perhaps,  the  best  specimen  of  Assyrian  art 
yet  discovered.     The  monarch  is  clad  in  sacrificial  robes, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


271 


STATUE   OF  A  KING. 


and  in  his  right  hand  is.  the  sacred  mace.  From  his 
neck  dejiend  the  four  sacred  signs — the  sun,  the  crescent, 
the  trident,  and  the  cross.  To  his  girdle  are  attached 
three  daggers,  and  above  his  head  are  the  winged  globe, 
the  sun,  the  crescent,  the  trident,  and  the  horned  cap. 
At  his  feet  is  a  triangular  altar,  not  unlike  the  tripod  of 


272  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

the  Greeks,  and  whereon  were  placed  the  offerings  to  the 
deified  king,  who  had  been  decreed  divine  honors. 

From  the  site  of  the  temples  we  passed  to  examine 
the  remains  of  the  once  magnificent  palace  of  King  As- 
shur-izir-pal,  who  reigned  in  the  ninth  century  before  our 
era.  His  is  regarded  as  the  most  prosperous  period  in 
Assyrian  history,  and  the  one  in  which  art  was  carried 
to  its  highest  degree  of  perfection  among  the  Assyrians. 
He  was  no  less  renowned  as  a  w^arrior  than  famous  as  a 
hunter.  Ten  of  his  great  campaigns  are  recorded  in  cu- 
neiform inscriptions.  His  ninth  was  against  Syria,  during 
which  he  compelled  Tyre  and  Sidon,  Byblus  and  Ara- 
dus,  to  pay  him  tribute.  On  his  return  from  the  shores 
of  the  Mediterranean,  he  crossed  the  Lebanons,  and 
brou2:ht  therefrom  beams  of  cedar  wherewith  to  adorn 
his  palace.  Next  to  Nimrod,  he  is  the  most  noted 
hunter  in  history.  He  loved  the  chase,  and  is  said  to 
have  killed  three  hundred  and  sixty  large  lions.  Near 
his  palace  he  had  a  menagerie  park,  wherein  he  kept 
lions,  leopards,  elephants,  and  other  animals,  for  his  royal 
sport. 

His  grand  palace  was  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
long  and  three  hundred  feet  broad,  and  consisted  of 
eight  large  halls  and  smaller  chambers,  arranged  around 
a  central  court,  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  length 
and  one  hundred  feet  in  breadth.  The  largest  hall  was 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long  and  thirty- three  feet 
wide.  Built  upon  a  high  platform,  it  had  two  splen- 
did facades.  The  gate-ways  thereto  were  flanked  w^ith 
sphinxes  or  winged  lions,  sculptured  to  represent  the  hu- 
man form  down  to  the  waist.  The  grand  portal  to  the 
king's  audience -chamber  was  ornamented  with  winged 
human -headed  bulls,  of  yellow  limestone.  The  pave- 
ment of  the  palace  was  of  slabs  of  alabaster,  w^hereon 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


273 


were  inscribed  the  titles,  the  genealogy,  the  achieve- 
ments of  the  king.  The  ceiling  was  frescoed,  repre- 
senting flowers  and  animals,  and  inlaid  with  ivory  and 
plates  of  gold.  On  the  walls  were  the  sculptured  rec- 
ords of  the  empire,  so  that  he  who  entered  might  read ; 
and  thereon  were  traced  in  bass-relief,  and  with  great 
spirit  and  freedom,  battle  scenes,  triumphal  processions, 
exploits  of  the  chase,  ceremonies  of  religion,  and  grand 


ENTRANCE   TO   THE   GREAT   HALL   OP   THE   NORTH-WEST   PALACE. 

state  occasions,  when  raonarchs  received  embassadors 
from  foreign  lands.  Within  the  palace  stood  the  statue 
of  King  Asshur-izir-pal,  which  is  now  in  the  British  Mu- 
seum. 

Through  this  forsaken  palace  I  wandered  from  room 
to  room  and  from  hall  to  hall,  where,  thirty  centuries 
ago,  kings  had  been  banqueted  with  all  the  luxuries  an 
empire  could  afford,  and  where  the  crowned  and  scep- 
tred had  received  the  homage  of  conquered  provinces. 
How  inadequate  is  language  to  express  the  emotions 

18 


274  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

thereby  awakened  in  the  soul,  and  to  voice  the  thoughts 
which  come  trooping  through  the  mind !  The  past  re- 
turned with  the  reality  of  the  present,  and  the  imagina- 
tion reproduced  the  royal  structure  in  its  completeness 
and  splendor.  "Art  is  long,"  said  a  great  poet,  whose 
words  were  here  verified  in  a  remarkable  manner.  The 
king  is  dead,  and  the  master-builder  is  unknown;  but 
the  creations  of  the  latter,  which  w^ere  the  pride  of  the 
former,  abide,  and  excite  the  admiration  of  the  modern 
traveler.  Many  of  the  grander  specimens  of  Assyrian 
art  have  been  removed  to  adorn  the  capitals  of  Euroj)e, 
but  enouo-h  remains  to  interest  and  instruct.  Some  of 
the  bass-reliefs  are  as  perfect  to-day  as  when  they  re- 
ceived their  finishing  touch  centuries  ago,  while  others 
have  suffered  from  exposure  to  the  elements  and  the 
vandalism  of  the  thoughtless  Arab.  In  some  of  the 
rooms  the  alabaster  slabs  which  face  the  walls  remain  in 
their  original  position,  and  measure  from  six  to  ten  feet 
square.  In  each  corner  is  a  triangular  block,  deftly  cut, 
and  in  ornamentation  is  the  "chief  corner-stone."  On 
the  walls  in  one  room  are  sculptured  in  relief,  and  in  a 
beautiful  manner,  elaborate  tracery,  fruitful  vines,  and 
the  honeysuckle — the  "  sacred  tree  "  of  the  Assyrians ; 
and  on  the  same  are  inscriptions  in  the  cuneiform  char- 
acter. Beyond,  we  came  to  a  room  whose  walls  are  cov- 
ered with  historic  records.  It  is  a  library  in  stone,  whose 
volumes  are  ever  open  to  him  w^ho  enters  therein.  On 
the  sides  of  an  adjoining  apartment  are  representations 
of  winged  bulls,  with  knotted  girdles  and  inscribed  rec- 
ords. On  those  of  another  room,  perhaps  a  votive  hall, 
is  the  image  of  a  man  with  wings,  whose  beard  and  hair 
are  massive,  and  in  whose  hand  is  an  offering  to  the 
gods.  At  the  entrance  of  a  hall,  and  on  either  side,  is 
a  human-headed  lion,  with  five  legs,  two  seen  from  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  277 

front  view  and  four  seen  from  the  side  view,  the  object 
being  to  supply  thereby  what  was  then  an  imperfection 
in  art.  From  the  hall  we  passed  through  a  series  of 
apartments  on  whose  walls  are  described  soldiers  with 
round  shields  and  drawn  daggers,  beasts  and  birds, 
beautiful  flowers,  and  gai'lands  elegantly  wrought,  horses 
and  chariots,  with  archers  therein  drawing  the  bow  at 
a  venture,  and  a  priest  whose  hands  are  raised  in  prayer. 

Turning  from  these  marvelous  works  of  ancient  art, 
which  seemed  to  echo  back  the  mighty  past,  we  traversed 
the  intervening  mounds  and  ravines,  to  examine  the  cen- 
tral palace,  wherein  had  lived  in  regal  splendor  two  As- 
syrian kings,  whose  military  expeditions  into  Syria  and 
Palestine  are  recorded  in  the  Bible.  The  earliest  of  the 
two  was  Shalmaneser  II.,  the  son  of  Asshur-izir-pal,  who 
ascended  the  throne  about  860  b.c,  and  whose  reisru  con- 
tinned  for  thirty-five  years.  His  power  was  felt  from 
Media  to  the  Mediterranean,  from  the  Persian  Gulf  to 
the  mountains  of  Armenia.  Three  of  his  twenty -seven 
campaigns  were  against  Syria,  when  Ben-hadad  and  Ha- 
zael  were  upon  the  throne  of  Damascus,  and  during  the 
successive  reigns  of  Ahab  and  Jehu,  the  kings  of  Israel. 
Against  their  confederated  strength,  he  marched  with  an 
army,  "  in  multitudes  that  were  not  to  be  counted,"  and 
returned  to  his  capital  crowned  with  victory. 

To  commemorate  his  reign,  he  built  for  himself  a  mag- 
nificent residence  less  than  five  hundred  feet  from  the 
splendid  palace  of  his  father ;  and,  although  subsequent- 
ly despoiled  of  its  rarer  sj)ecimens  of  art,  to  adorn  the 
palace  of  Esar-haddon,  yet  enough  remains  to  illustrate 
its  proportions  and  beauty.  Among  its  ruins  were  dis- 
covered two  gigantic  winged  bulls,  covered  with  inscrip- 
tions, and  an  obelisk  of  black  marble,  now  in  the  British 
Museum.     On  the  four  sides  of  the  obelisk  are  twenty 


278  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

compartments  of  bass-reliefs ;  and  in  the  space  above,  be- 
tween and  below  the  fignres,  is  cnneiform  writing  of  two 
hundred  and  ten  lines,  sharply  cut  and  well  preserved. 
It  is  seven  feet  high,  and  twenty-two  inches  wide  on  the 
broad  face.  The  material  and  the  workmanship  are  su- 
perior. It  is  a  record  in  marble  of  the  military  annals 
of  Shalmaneser  II.,  for  thirty-one  years,  commencing  about 
860  B.C.  The  bass-reliefs  represent  the  king  on  two  sev- 
eral occasions,  attended  with  his  chief  officers  of  state,  re- 
ceiving the  tribute  of  conquered  nations,  whose  envoys 
prostrate  themselves  before  the  great  king,  and  at  his 
feet  lay  their  offerings  of  gold,  silver,  copper  in  bars  and 
cubes,  goblets,  shawls,  and  the  tusks  of  elephants.  In  ad- 
dition to  such  offerings  as  could  be  carried  in  the  hand, 
there  are  also  presented  animals,  such  as  the  two-hump- 
ed camels  from  Bactria,  together  with  monkeys  and  bab- 
oons, lions  and  antelopes,  the  elephant  and  the  rhinoceros, 
emblematic  of  different  countries.  Among  the  nations 
thereon  portrayed  are  the  Jews,  whose  peculiar  feat- 
ures are  unmistakable.  And  among  the  tributary  kings 
whose  names  are  inscribed  on  the  obelisk  is  the  name 
of  "Jehu,  the  son  of  Omri,"  and  Hazael,  whom  Elijah 
anointed  king  of  Syria ;  which  furnish  an  interesting  in- 
stance of  corroborative  evidence  of  the  fidelity  of  the 
Bible  historians. 

And  other  historic  facts  cluster  around  these  ruins ; 
for  on  the  spot  where  the  marble  obelisk  was  found  a 
subsequent  king  had  his  royal  abode.  It  was  Tiglath- 
pileser  II.,  the  supposed  Pul  of  the  Scriptures,  who  re- 
paired and  adorned  the  palace  of  Shalmaneser  II.,  and  on 
its  walls  had  caused  to  be  sculptured  in  relief,  but  in 
colossal  proportions,  winged  figures  struggling  ^vith  mys- 
tic animals ;  and,  to  delight  his  higli  martial  spirit,  he  had 
also  scenes  of  war  portrayed,  such  as  sieges,  with  mounds 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


279 


and  battering-rams,  archers  masked  by  loop-holed  screens, 
and  captives  impaled  alive. 

Having  ascended  the  throne  in  745  B.C.,  Tiglath-pile- 
ser  II.  sought  to  restore  the  kingdom  to  its  ancient  glory 
and  ascendency.  His  wars  were  many,  long,  and  bloody. 
By  his  energy  and  imwearied  activity  he  subdued  a  re- 


280  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

volt  in  Soiitlierii  Mesopotamia,  and  thereupon  assumed 
the  title  of  "King  of  Babylon."  From  the  south,  he  led 
his  victorious  legions  to  the  west,  and,  after  a  struggle 
which  lasted  eight  years,  he  conquered  Keziu,  King  of 
Damascus ;  Menahem,  King  of  Samaria ;  Hiram,  King  of 
Tyre ;  and  Queen  Khabila,  whose  dominions  were  on  the 
borders  of  Egypt.  And  having  subdued  these,  he  de- 
feated Azariah,  King  of  Judah  ;  but  the  victory  was  dear- 
ly bought,  and  the  Assyrian  king  retired  to  his  own  do- 
minions. Resolved  upon  the  unconditional  surrender 
of  all  those  provinces  which  had  revolted,  he  returned, 
after  the  lapse  of  ten  years,  and  commenced  an  attack  on 
Samaria,  when  Pekah  was  the  king.  This  campaign  is 
thus  recorded  in  2  Kings :  "  In  the  days  of  Pekah  king 
of  Israel  came  Tiglath-pileser  king  of  Assyria,  and  took 
Ijon,  and  Abel-beth-maachah,  and  Janoah,  and  Kedesh, 
and  Hazor,  and  Gilead,  and  Galilee,  all  the  land  of  Naj^h- 
tali,  and  carried  them  captive  to  Assyria."'"'  And  this  in- 
spired account  is  corroborated  by  the  inscriptions  found 
in  the  palace  of  this  Assyrian  monarch. 

A  year  later,  Tiglath-pileser  was  again  in  Syria.  He 
had  been  summoned  by  Ahaz,  King  of  Jerusalem.  A 
powerful  confederation  had  been  formed  by  Pekah,  of 
Samaria,  and  Rezin,  of  Damascus,  who  sought  to  compel 
Ahaz  to  join  the  alliance  against  Assyria.  To  accomplish 
their  object,  they  had  "  come  up  to  Jerusalem  to  war,  and 
besieged  Ahaz,  but  could  not  overcome  him."  In  his  ex- 
tremity, "Ahaz  sent  messengers  to  Tiglath-pileser  king  of 
Assyria,  saying,  I  am  thy  servant  and  thy  son :  come  up, 
and  save  me  out  of  the  hand  of  the  king  of  Syria,  and 
out  of  the  hand  of  the  king  of  Israel,  which  rise  up 
against,  me.     And  Ahaz  took  the  silver  and  gold  that 

2  Kings  XV.,  29. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  281 

was  found  in  the  house  of  the  Lord,  and  in  the  treasures 
of  the  king's  house,  and  sent  it  for  a  present  to  the  king 
of  Assyria.  And  the  king  of  Assyria  hearkened  unto 
him :  for  the  king  of  Assyria  went  up  against  Damascus, 
and  took  it,  and  carried  the  people  of  it  captive  to  Kir, 
and  slew  Kezin."*  All  these  Bible  facts  are  recorded  in 
the  Assyrian  inscriptions  which  have  been  exhumed  in 
our  own  day.  There  is  a  notice  of  the  defeat  and  death 
of  Rezin  in  a  mutilated  cuneiform  inscription,  now  in  the 
British  Museum,  and  also  the  reception  of  the  tribute 
from  Ahaz,  king  of  Judah. 

Crossing  what  seemed  to  be  a  deep  ravine,  we  soon 
stood  within  the  j^alace  of  Esar-haddon,  who  succeeded 
his  father,  Sennacherib,  some  time  in  the  year  680  e.g. 
He  is  justly  renowned  for  his  military  success  and  the 
monuments  he  caused  to  be  erected.  Phoenicia,  Cilicia, 
Egypt,  Idumea,  Chaldea,  and  Palestine  surrendered  to 
his  conquering  sword,  and  were  compelled  to  pay  the 
tribute  exacted  by  his  father.  He  was  at  once  and  at 
the  same  time  "  King  of  Assyria  and  King  of  Babylon ;" 
and  to  these  titles  he  proudly  added, "  King  of  the  kings 
of  Egypt,  and  Conqueror  of  Ethiopia."  ■  It  was  during 
his  reign  that  Manasseh,  King  of  Judah,  revolted,  and  re- 
fused to  pay  the  annual  tribute :  "  Wherefore  the  Lord 
brought  upon  them  the  captains  of  the  host  of  the  king 
of  Assyria,  which  took  Manasseh  among  the  thorns,  and 
bound  him  with  fetters,  and  carried  him  to  Babylon."f 
From  a  cylinder  inscription  in  duplicate,  and  now  in  the 
British  Museum,  it  appears  that  this  Assyrian  monarch 
caused  to  be  erected  four  palaces  and  thirty  temples. 
Of  his  great  palaces,  one  was  at  Kuyunjik,  one  at  Nim- 
roud,  and  one  at  Babylon,  which  he  occupied  as  taste 

*  3  Kings  xvi.,  5-9.  t  3  Chronicles  xxxiii.,  11. 


282        '  THBONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

might  incline  or  state  policy  demand.  The  one  at  Nim- 
roud  was  spacious  and  grand,  and  was  probably  mod- 
eled after  the  Temple  of  Solomon  in  Jerusalem.  Its 
great  hall  was  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long  by 
one  hundred  feet  in  breadth.  On  its  northern  front  was 
a  noble  terrace,  which  commanded  an  extensive  view. 
At  one  end  of  this  hall  were  winged  bulls,  and  at  the 
opposite  end,  which  had  a  triple  portal,  were  placed 
three  pairs  of  colossal  sphinxes,  which  overlooked  the 
Tigris  winding  through  the  plain.  Judging  from  the 
excavated  portions,  the  interior  of  the  palace  had  been 
designed  on  a  scale  more  magnificent  than  that  of  any 
other  Assyrian  palace  yet  discovered.  Its  chief  room 
measured  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  feet  long  by  sixty- 
two  feet  wide,  and  must  have  contained  an  area  of  not 
less  than  ten  thousand  square  feet.  The  ornamentations 
of  the  interior  were  on  a  scale  of  corresponding  grand- 
eur; and  it  is  thought  that  the  curious  mythical  and 
grotesque  figures  portrayed  on  the  walls  suggested  to 
the  prophet  Ezekiel  his  vision  of  the  four  living  creat- 
ures. But  "the  grand  palace  of  Esar-haddon  was  never 
completed ;  or,  if  finished,  it  was  destroyed  by  fire.  Both 
may  be  true.  When  the  ruin  was  excavated,  piles  of 
sculptured  slabs  were  discovered  ready  for  use ;  and  the 
quantity  of  charcoal  found  within  the  mound  indicated 
the  action  of  the  fire. 

Leaving  the  blackened  remains  of  this  once  gorgeous 
palace,  we  crossed  a  field  of  young  spring  wheat,  and,  fol- 
lowing our  Arab  guide,  descended  a  deep,  circular  exca- 
vation, wherein  stood  the  statue  of  the  god  Nebo.  He 
was  in  the  East  what  Mercury  was  in  the  West,  and  his 
special  function  was  to  preside  over  knowledge  and  learn- 
ing ;  and  hence  he  was  called  by  the  Assyrians  "  the  god 
who  knows,  and  who  hears  from  afar."     The  great  statue 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


283 


is  twelve  feet  higli,  and  of  harmonious  proportions ;  it  is 
richly  ornamented  with  elegant  robes  and  garlands  of 
flowers.  The  hands  are  folded  in  repose,  and  the  face  is 
calm,  and  expressive  of 
w^isdom.  From  the  waist 
down  to  the  knees  is  a 
lengthened  inscription  in 
the  cuneiform  characters. 
But  the  surroundings  of 
the  deserted  god  were 
melancholy  in  the  ex- 
treme. The  accumulated 
earth  of  as-es  had  been 
removed,  and  Nebo  stood 
in  a  deep,  dark  hole,  with- 
out a  follower  to  do  him 
reverence.  Poor  fellow, 
he  had  seen  better  days ! 
From  this  deserted 
shrine,  we  crossed  the 
intervening  mounds  and 
ravines,  on  our  return  to 
Selamiyah ;  but,  when 
opposite  the  "  Castle  of 
Nimroud,"  we  were  over- 
taken by  a  storm  which 
lasted  four  consecutive 
hours. ^  ^   The     lightning  l,, J.;j,l|i|i^,,c^^ 

was  vivid  ;    the   thunder  te&l:^i!^!i ^ 

was  deep-toned ;  the  rain 
was  gradual  and  incessant.  We  took  shelter  in  one 
of  the  subterranean  trenches  around  the  foundations  of 
the  castle,  where  we  remained  during  two  hours.  In 
addition  to  our  own  party,  a  large  company  of  Arabs 


:  r^ 


THE  GOD  NEBO. 


284  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

were  there,  wlio  had  been  attracted  thither  by  the  hope 
of  gain.  Amoug  the  number  was  the  sheikh  of  the  tribe 
who  Jiad  aided  Layard  in  his  excavations.  He  invited 
us  to  an  entertainment  in  his  encampment,  distant  half 
an  hour's  ride;  but  when  he  saw  we  hesitated  to  accept, 
he  relieved  our  embarrassment  by  informing  us  that  we 
could  formally  accept  his  invitation,  and,  instead  of  go- 
ing, we  could  make  him  a  present.  This  was  Arab  eti- 
quette. The  proffered  entertainment  placed  us  under 
an  obligation  to  reciprocate;  and  the  formal  acceptance 
of  the  invitation  demanded  that  we  should  go,  or  make 
him  a  present.  Feeling  sure  that  he  was  more  anxious  for 
our  money  than  for  our  company,  we  gave  him  five  pias- 
tres, which  were  as  the  oil  of  gladness  to  his  countenance. 
But  the  love  of  money  was  not  peculiar  to  the  sheikh. 
Six  of  his  tribe  now  advanced,  and  claimed  a  revenue  as 
the  guardians  of  Nimroud,  and  insisted  that  all  who  look 
upon  the  ruins  must  pay  for  the  privilege  thereof  This 
impudence  could  hardly  be  excelled  in  a  better  civilized 
land.  We  disputed  their  right  to  tax  us;  and  they, 
waiving  their  right,  appealed  to  our  benevolence,  which 
we  expressed  to  the  extent  of  one  piastre  for  each  man. 

It  was  now  4  p.m.,  and  there  was  no  prospect  that  the 
storm  would  soon  abate.  Mine  was  the  only  horse  at 
the  mound,  which  I  gladly  offered  to  Mr.  Collins  for  the 
return  journey  to  Selamiyah,  some  three  miles  distant  to 
the  north-west.  Old  Mr.  Meekha  was  mounted  on  a 
mule  hired  for  the  occasion.  The  rest  of  the  party  started 
on  foot  over  the  hills,  through  plowed  fields  and  across 
meadows  whereon  the  water  was  a  foot  deep.  Our  dis- 
comfort was  increased  by  snow  and  hail  that  fell  with 
the  rain,  and  made  the  ground  slippery.  At  length  the 
western  sky  grew  bright,  and  a  rainbow  appeared  in  the 
east — a  bow  of  promise  to  some,  but  not  to  us.     A  rain- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  285 

cloud  followed  us  to  the  last,  pouring  upon  us  its  drench- 
ing floods.  All  this  would  have  been  endurable  had  we 
had  in  prospect  a  change  of  clothing  and  a  comfortable 
house.  We  w^ere  to  lodge  that  night  with  the  Sheikh  of 
Selamiyah,  the  entrance  to  whose  wretched  hovel  was  al- 
most inaccessible  by  the  depth  of  the  mud  around  it. 
On  the  earthen  floor  of  the  hut  was  a  fire  that  filled  the 
place  with  smoke.  Sixteen  Arabs — men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, and,  in  addition  thereto,  dogs,  cats,  goats,  and  don- 
keys— were  to  be  our  companions  for  the  night.  Our  fru- 
gal repast  consisted  of  a  few  cakes  that  we  had  brought 
from  Mosul,  and  some  eggs  and  milk  purchased  from  the 
sheikh's  homely  wife.  Each  person  measured  his  length 
upon  the  fioor  for  a  night's  rest ;  and,  as  the  feet  of  all 
were  placed  toward  the  little  fire,  our  bodies  were  as  so 
many  spokes  in  a  wheel  resting  on  its  hub.  But  there 
were  too  many  animals  in  that  hovel  for  an  American  to 
sleep  without  the  annoyance  of  warlike  dreams ;  and, 
after  hours  of  fruitless  resistance,  I  said,  with  David, 
"Make  me  to  know  mine  end,  and  the  measure  of  my 
days,  what  it  is ;  that  I  may  know  how  frail  I  am." 

At  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  roused  my  compan- 
ions to  start  for  Mosul.  In  a  moment  every  Arab  in  the 
hut  was  awake,  and  ready  for  a  present.  Hassin  and 
his  wife,  Meriam,  were  the  proj^er  occui^ants  of  the  place, 
and  the  others  were  neighbors,  who  had  come  to  sj^end 
the  night  with  their  distinguished  guests.  A  large,  mus- 
cular Arab,  who  boasted  the  proud  name  of  "  Sultan," 
w^ho  was  a  walking  armory  of  old  swords  and  pistols, 
w^ho  had  volunteered  to  accompany  us  to  Nimroud,  and 
for  whose  voluntary  services  I  had  ofi'ered  five  piastres, 
refused  the  profi'ered  sum,  and  left  the  house  in  a  rage ; 
but  this  was  only  a  feint,  for,  on  finding  he  could  get  no 
more,  he  returned,  and  took  what  had  been  offered. 


286  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

By  the  light  of  the  moon,  we  started  on  horseback  for 
Mosul.  The  distance  was  not  more  than  fifteen  miles, 
which  we  should  have  gone  in  four  hours;  but  it  soon 
traus2:)ired  that  our  horses  had  not  been  fed,  and  we 
strufrsrled  on  at  the  rate  of  two  miles  an  hour.  Yet  the 
mind  found  relief  in  the  recollections  of  history.  We 
were  passing  over  the  same  ground  trodden  by  the  feet 
of  Jonah,  when  he  startled  the  peoj^le  with  the  cry, 
"  Forty  days,  and  Nineveh  shall  be  overthrown,"  These 
hills  heard  that  voice,  which  a  repentant  people  rever- 
ently heeded.  For  many  miles  we  could  trace  the  walls 
of  the  ancient  city,  once  the  causeway  for  the  war-chari- 
ots of  Nineveh ;  and  here  and  there  were  mounds  mark- 
ing the  site  of  the  garden-houses  of  the  populace,  and 
around  which  the  soil  is  now  as  rich  and  fertile  as  in 
the  days  of  yore.  Slowly  the  day  dawned ;  the  sun 
rose  above  the  dense  fog;  and,  after  a  ride  of  seven  hours, 
we  reached  the  great  mounds  of  Kuyunjik. 

Around  us  were  the  ruins  of  the  grand  palaces  of  Sen- 
nacherib and  of  Sardanapalus,  whose  names  are  recorded 
in  the  sacred  annals,  and  whose  deeds  fill  so  large  a 
space  in  the  history  of  the  Eastern  world.  We  were  on 
a  fertile  plain,  dotted  with  the  gardens  and  cottages  of 
the  poor,  and  traversed  by  the  great  caravan  road  lead- 
ing to  Kurdistan  on  the  north-east,  and  to  Aleppo  and 
the  sea  on  the  north-west.  Two  immense  mounds  of 
ruins  are  less  than  a  mile  from  the  Tigris,  and  directly 
opposite  Mosul.  Between  them  flows  the  river  Khaus- 
ser,  which  issues  from  the  hills  of  Makloub  and  empties 
into  the  Tigris.  In  the  dry  season  it  is  small  and  slug- 
gish, but  at  other  times  it  is  an  impetuous  torrent,  and 
has  worn  for  itself  a  deep  and  broad  bed.  It  is  now 
spanned  by  a  modern  brick  bridge,  beneath  which  the 
swollen  stream  rushed  with  unwonted  force.     It  is  an 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  289 

ancient  river,  and  occupies  the  channel  through  which  it 
flowed  when  Sennacherib  was  king  of  all  Assyria.  But 
it  is  evident,  both  from  historic  records  and  the  rich 
alluvium  deposited  on  the  plain,  that  the  Tigris  has 
gradually  retreated  to  its  present  bed.  Once  it  flowed 
along  the  city  wall  on  the  west,  and  was  a  section,  with 
the  Khausser  and  two  artificial  canals,  of  the  deep  moat 
that  encompassed  this  portion  of  Nineveh.  To  the  east 
of  the  great  mounds  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  wall, 
and  in  it  is  a  deep  cut  for  the  modern  caravan  road, 
and  through  which  the  telegraph  extends  to  Mosul,  and 
thence  to  Constantinople.  It  is  estimated  that  the  cir- 
cuit of  the  walls  was  eight  miles,  and  the  area  inclosed 
w^as  about  two  thousand  acres.  Of  the  grand  gate-ways 
only  one  remains  to  reflect  its  original  grandeur.  It  is 
the  north-west  gate  of  the  city,  through  which  Sennach- 
erib and  his  hosts  had  often  gone  forth  to  battle,  and 
returned  crowned  with  victory,  laden  with  spoil,  and 
leading  in  triumph  captives  from  the  Holy  Land.  When 
complete,  it  must  have  been  exceedingly  imposing.  The 
noble  entrance  was  fifteen  feet  wide,  paved  with  lime- 
stone slabs,  that  still  bear  the  marks  of  chariot-wheels. 
The  roof  was  arched,  and  surmounted  with  a  lofty  tower 
one  hundred  feet  high.  It  was  a  triple  gate-w^ay,  and 
within  were  two  chambers,  each  seventy  feet  in  length 
and  twenty- three  feet  in  breadth,  wherein  troops  were 
stationed.  The  triple  portal  was  flanked  by  majestic 
human- headed  bulls,  each  fourteen  feet  long,  a  pair  of 
which  remain,  exciting  the  wonder  and  admiration  of 
the  modern  traveler.  The  mound  in  which  they  have 
been  buried  for  more  than  t^venty-five  centuries  is  fifty 
feet  high,  through  -which  the  explorers  have  tunneled  to 
the  chambers  and  to  the  outer  entrance,  where  the  gi- 
gantic sculptures  now  are  seen.     How  impressive  the 

19 


290 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


sight  of  these  half-human,  halfanimal,  mysterious  creat- 
ures, the  creation  of  the  genius  of  the  past,  and  the  em- 
bodiment of  a  faith  of  which  so  little  is  now  known ! 
The  workmanshij)  is  extraordinary,  and  not  altogether 
unworthy  of  Greece.  The  sentiment  impressed  on  the 
marble  is  grand :  the  human  head  represents  intelli- 
gence ;  the   body  of  the  bull  illustrates  strength ;  the 


A   WINGED   BULL. 


wings  of  the  eagle  symbolize  ubiquity;  and  thus  we 
have  here  three  attributes  of  Deity — omniscience,  om- 
nipotence, and  omnipresence.  The  lofty  head-dress,  the 
richly  ornamented  rosettes,  the  wide- spreading  wings 
which  rise  above  their  backs,  and  the  curled  hair  which 
profusely  adorns  their  bodies,  indicate  a  taste  and  finish 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  291 

not  elsewhere  seen.  Behind  them  are  colossal  winged 
ligures  of  the  same  height,  each  bearing  the  traditional 
'pine-cone  and  basket.  Their  human  faces  are  in  full, 
and  the  relief  is  high  and  bold.  On  all  these  figures, 
and  on  the  great  slabs  near  them,  are  the  cuneiform  in- 
scriptions cleanly  cut,  and  still  distinct.  Was  it  not  of 
these  grand  portals  Nahum  said,  "  The  gates  of  thy  land 
shall  be  set  wide  open  unto  thine  enemies  ?"'^  And 
what  the  enemies  spared,  time  is  gradually  destroying. 
The  motley  marble  of  Mosul,  out  of  which  they  are 
sculptured,  is  yielding  to  the  elements,  after  a  burial  of 
so  many  centuries.  The  face  of  the  great  image  on  the 
right  remains  quite  perfect,  and  is  remarkable  for  its 
fullness  of  expression ;  but  the  body  is  broken  through 
the  centre,  and  will  soon  fall  to  pieces.  Its  companion 
figure  is  much  more  injured ;  except  the  massive  beard, 
the  head  is  gone ;  and  there  are  large  cracks  in  its  mar- 
ble sides.  It  has  been  suggested  that  this  splendid  gate- 
way was  in  process  of  completion  when  Sennacherib 
was  murdei'ed  by  his  sons,  which  may  account  in  part 
for  the  apparent  fact  that  the  great  work  was  left  by 
the  sculptor  incomplete. 

Of  the  two  principal  mounds  within  the  ancient  in- 
closure,  that  which  is  known  as  Nebbi-Yunus  is  the 
smaller  and  less  explored.  Loftier  and  steeper  than  its 
companion,  it  is  a  triangular  area  of  forty  acres.  If  an 
artificial  mound,  it  is  estimated  that  it  required  the  labor 
of  ten  thousand  men  during  five  years  to  complete  it.  It 
has  a  deep  depression  in  the  middle,  on  one  side  of  which 
is  a  Moslem  cemetery,  and  on  the  other  side  is  a  small  vil- 
lage of  Kurds  and  Turcomans,  to  whom  the  hill  belongs. 
The  most  conspicuous  object  on  the  mound  is  the  mosque, 

*  Nahuin  iii.,  13. 


292 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


beneath  which  is  the  traditional  tomb  of  the  prophet 
Jonah.  Although  the  fanaticism  of  the  Moslems  is  a  bar 
to  thorough  explorations,  yet  suiBcient  antiquities  have' 
been  discovered  to  confirm  the  opinion  that  the  mound 
is  the  site  of  more  than  one  Assyrian  palace  yet  to  be 
exhumed  when  the  power  of  the  Turk  is  broken,  and 
the  people  are  ruled  by  an  intelligent  and  liberal  gov- 
ernment.    Among  the  relics  found  there  were  inscribed 


TOMB  OF   THE   PROPHET   JONAH,  AND    THE   RIVER   KHAITSSER. 

tablets,  a  pair  of  colossal  human-headed  bulls,  two  fig- 
ures of  the  Assyrian  Hercules  slaying  the  lion,  and  the 
walls  of  an  antique  chamber.  These,  however,  are  but 
the  promise  of  richer  results,  which  the  impatient  ex- 
plorer is  now  anticipating  with  confidence  and  delight. 

Half  a  mile  to  the  north-west  is  the  larger  of  the  two 
mounds  of  Kuyunjik.  The  river  Khausser  flows  near  its 
south-eastern  base.  It  is  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  ninety-five  feet  high  at  its  south-east 
corner.     The  area  is  equal  to  a  hundred  acres,  and  ap- 


^^v  ^ 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  295 

pears  to  be  a  mass  of  transported  earth.  If  artificial,  it 
occuj^ied  twenty  thousand  men  six  years  to  complete  the 
platform.  Its  flat  summit  is  annually  plowed,  which  is 
the  fulfillment  of  prophecy.  The  rains  of  the  centuries 
have  cut  deep  ravines  down  its  sides,  which  are  now 
channels  for  the  torrents  in  the  rainy  season.  On  the 
northern  end  is  a  ruined  village;  near  it  is  the  white 
tomb  of  some  Moslem  saint;  and  between  the  village 
and  the  tomb  is  the  broad,  steep  road  that  leads  to  the 
summit. 

Ascending  the  beaten  path  in  company  with  Mr.  Hor- 
muzd  Eassam,  the  distinguished  explorer,  we  were  soon 
within  the  excavated  palace  of  the  renowned  Sennach- 
erib. The  great  structure  had  been  uncovered  by  Mr. 
Layard,  so  that  we  could  now  traverse  its  spacious  courts, 
its  lengthened  halls,  its  many  rooms,  and  examine  with 
admiration  its  beautiful  bass-reliefs,  and  contemplate  its 
grand  fagades.  It  stood  on  an  artificial  platform  ninety 
feet  high,  which  was  covered  with  a  pavement  of  bricks. 
The  public  and  private  apartments  were  connected  by  a 
noble  corridor  two  hundred  and  eighteen  feet  long  and 
twenty-five  feet  wide,  from  which  passage-ways  led  into 
the  public  courts,  and  from  the  latter  other  passage-ways 
Jed  into  the  king's  seraglio.  From  the  two  chief  en- 
trances extended  immense  halls,  whose  length  was  not 
less  than  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  and  whose  width 
measured  forty  feet.  From  these  halls  were  the  entrances 
into  the  twenty  large  rooms  and  into  the  fifty  smaller 
onesj  all  of  which  were  elegantly  adorned  with  sculptures 
in  relief.  When  complete,  with  all  its  terraces,  fagades, 
courts,  halls,  and  rooms,  the  grand  palace  covered  an  area 
equal  to  eight  acres  of  ground.  Lofty  flights  of  marble 
steps  led  up  to  the  three  fiigades — one  on  the  north-east, 
one  on  the  south-east,  and  the  third  on  the  south-west ; 


296 


THEONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


and  each  of  these  mao^nificent  entrances  was  ornamented 
by  five  i:)airs  of  human-headed  bulls  and  lions  and  other 
c'olossal  figures.  It  is  supposed  that  the  western  face  of 
the  palace  overlooked  the  Tigris,  which  once  washed  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  099 

base  of  the  great  platform,  and  which  was  reached  by  an 
inclined  way,  or  steps,  leading  down  to  the  water's  edge. 
But  the  principal  approach  to  the  royal  abode  was  on 
the  eastern  side,  where  the  great  bulls  were  found  bear- 
ing the  inscribed  annals  of  Sennacherib. 

From  this  eastern  entrance  we  passed  through  the 
halls  and  larger  rooms  of  the  deserted  palace,  and  expe- 
rienced an  enthusiasm  which  language  is  inadequate  to 
express.  Many  of  the  bass-reliets  remain  in  their  orig- 
inal positions,  and  evince  a  degree  of  perfection  in  sculpt- 
ure not  excelled  in  later  times.  There  is  more  of  the 
picturesque  in  these  than  in  those  at  Nimroud,  and  a 
greater  fullness  of  detail.  The  sculptor  sought  to  trans- 
fer to  the  marble  the  landscape  where  occurred  the  his- 
toric events  he  aimed  to  portray.  The  high  mountain, 
the  extended  plain,  the  flowing  river,  the  spreading  palm, 
the  rugged  rocks,  the  embattled  city,  the  contending  ar- 
mies, are  traced  with  marvelous  reality.  On  the  walls 
of  one  hall  is  sculptured  a  lofty  mountain  covered  with 
trees,  and  at  its  base  a  broad  and  flowing  river,  filled 
with  fish,  whose  motion  in  the  water  is  almost  percepti- 
ble. On  the  walls  of  other  apartments  through  which 
we  passed  are  portrayed  battle- scenes ;  triumphal  pro- 
cessions ;  captives  taken  in  war ;  superb  horses  led  by 
grooms ;  the  Tigris,  wherein  fish  are  swimming ;  a  gar- 
den, wherein  are  fruitful  trees  and  blooming  flowers ;  a 
palm  with  six  branches;  and  gigantic  human- headed 
lions,  whose  sides  are  covered  with  the  arrow-headed 
characters. 

When  in  its  glory,  this  palace  was  an  art-gallery,  on 
whose  walls  were  sculptured  in  relief  the  national  and 
domestic  life  of  the  Ninevites ;  their  religious  ceremonies ; 
their  hunting-scenes ;  their  mechanical  arts ;  the  natural 
history  of  their  country ;  their  methods  of  warfare ;  the 


300  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

chief  iucidents  in  their  famous  battles;  the  treatment  of 
captives  taken  in  war;  their  military  equipments;  their 
domestic  and  public  architecture ;  their  modes  of  naviga- 
tion; their  ornaments  in  glass, ivory,  metals, and  pottery; 
their  household  furniture ;  their  musical  instruments,  such 
as  the  harp  and  the  lyre ;  the  variety  of  their  food  and 
style  of  cooking  ;  their  implements  of  agriculture ;  their 
festal  scenes;  the  ornaments  worn  by  the  ladies;  the  pri- 
vate life  of  the  king,  and  the  royal  honors  paid  him  at 
court  and  on  his  return  from  victorious  war.  So  numer- 
ous were  the  bass-reliefs  in  this  magnificent  palace,  that, 
were  they  arranged  in  order,  their  aggregated  length 
would  not  be  less  than  two  miles;  and  to  these  should 
be  added  the  colossal  winged  lions,  bulls,  and  sphinxes 
which  adorned  the  twenty-seven  portals  that  have  been 
discovered.  By  a  careful  study  of  these  sculptures,  it 
was  easy  to  learn  what  were  the  birds,  the  beasts,  the 
fishes,  the  plants  and  flowers,  the  minerals  and  metals, 
the  topography  and  landscape  scenery  of  Assyria;  the 
size  and  features  of  the  peoi3le ;  the  style  of  the  costumes 
worn  ;  and  the  peculiar  features  of  the  government  of  the 
Ninevites. 

On  the  northern  wall  of  the  great  hall  of  the  palace 
were  a  series  of  reliefs,  which  convey  to  the  mind  the 
skill  of  the  artist  and  the  state  of  mechanical  science 
which  then  obtained.  They  represent  the  process  of 
transporting  the  great  human -headed  lions  from  the 
quarry  whence  the  marble  was  taken  to  the  place  for 
which  it  was  designed.  There  is  the  low,  flat-bottomed 
boat  floating  on  the  river  which  conveyed  the  huge  mass 
to  a  point  opposite  the  city ;  there  are  the  strong  cables 
by  which  it  is  held  in  its  place,  and  to  which  are  at- 
tached smaller  ropes  held  by  a  large  body  of  men,  who 
are  tracking  the  boat  to  its  destination ;  there  are  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  303 

task -masters,  armed  witli  swords,  who  are  placed  over 
the  captives;  and  seated  astride  the  stone  is  the  over- 
seer, whose  outstretched  hands  indicate  that  he  is  issu- 
ing his  commands ;  there  is  the  sledge  on  the  river-bank 
on  which  the  sculptured  block  is  placed,  to  be  hauled  to 
its  place  in  the  palace.  The  sledge  is  impelled  by  le- 
vers, and  dragged  by  men,  over  whose  shoulders  the  ropes 
are  passed.  Beneath  the  sledge  are  placed  rollers,  to  fa- 
cilitate the  motion ;  and  there  is  depicted  the  whole  proc- 
ess by  which  the  great  image  is  elevated  to  its  pedestal, 
by  means  of  props,  the  wedge,  the  lever,  and  the  pulley, 
with  which  the  Assyrians  were  acquainted. 

In  another  hall  was  portrayed,  with  equal  spirit  and 
greater  detail,  the  siege  of  Lachish  by  Sennacherib  and 
his  mighty  army.  The  scene  is  in  the  land  of  the  fig 
and  the  vine.  The  besieged  city  is  defended  by  double 
walls,  with  embattled  towers  and  strong  outworks.  The 
warriors  are  drawn  up  before  the  beleaguered  town : 
some  are  archers,  some  spearmen,  some  slingers.  From 
the  castellated  towers,  the  besieged  are  hurling  javelins, 
stones,  fire-brands,  and  discharging  arrows  on  their  ene- 
mies. Undaunted,  the  Assyrians  seek  to  scale  the  walls 
by  means  of  ladders ;  and,  to  intimidate  their  enemies, 
they  are  impaling  those  who  have  fallen  into  their 
hands.  At  length  the  city  capitulates,  and  in  long  pro- 
cessions the  captives  are  marched  out,  and  brought  be- 
fore the  king,  who  is  seated  on  a  gorgeous  throne. 

It  was  while  the  occupant  of  this  stupendous  and 
gorgeous  palace  that  Sennacherib  was  murdered  by  his 
sons,  Sharezer  and  Adrammelech.  The  great  king  was 
worshiping  in  the  temple  of  his  patron  deity,  when  the 
parricides  dispatched  their  father,  impatient  to  wear  his 
crown.  And  thus  perished  in  an  evil  hour  the  most  cel- 
ebrated of  all  the  Assyrian  kings.     Pi'oud  and  haughty, 


304 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


self-confident  and  fearless,  he  displayed  a, strength  of 
will  and  a  fertility  of  genius  beyond  all  his  predeces- 
sors. Ascending  the  throne  in  b.c.  705,  his  prosperous 
reign  lasted  through  a  quarter  of  a  century.  By  his 
military  prowess,  he  excited  a  sense  of  dread  in  the 
minds  of  his  most  formidable  enemies;  he  enlarged  the 

limits  of  his  dominions,  and 
created  for  himself  an  imperish- 
able name.  Egypt  and  Ethio- 
pia, Susiana  and  Babylon,  Syria 
and  Palestine,  felt  the  power  of 
his  arms.  He  is  best  known  to 
the  general  reader  by  his  expe- 
dition against  Hezekiah,  King 
of  Judah.  Crossing  the  Tigris 
and  the  Euphrates  with  an  im- 
mense army,  he  descended  from 
the  Lebanons  to  the  Mediterra- 
nean, and  seized  Phoenicia.  By 
the  dread  his  arms  inspired,  all 
the  petty  monarchs  of  the  coast 
hastened  to  pay  the  tributes 
which  they  had  dared  to  with- 
hold. Tyre  and  Sidon,  Sarepta 
and  Joj^pa,  Ashdod  and  Asca- 
lon,  Hazor  and  Beth-dagon,  were 
taken  by  the  conqueror.  But 
the  King  of  Ekron  had  presumed  to  defy  the  coming  of 
the  Assyrians.  He  had  for  his  allies  the  Egyptians  and 
Ethiopians,  whose  combined  forces  were  posted  at  the 
city  of  Eltekeh,  mentioned  by  Joshua  as  a  city  of  the 
Levites.'^-    The  battle  was  long  and  bloody,  and  resulted 


SENNACHERIB  ON  HIS  THRONE. 


Joshua  xix.,  44. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  307 

in  an  overwhelming  defeat  of  the  confederated  kings. 
The  spoils  of  the  victors  were  vast  and  rich.  Thousands 
of  captives  were  sold  as  slaves.  The  princes  ca2:)tured 
were  slain,  and  their  bodies  exposed  on  stakes  around 
the  whole  circuit  of  the  walls  of  the  city ;  and  the  im- 
perial city  of  Ekron  opened  its  gates  to  the  victor. 

Flushed  with  success,  determined  and  revengeful,  in- 
tent on  the  punishment  of  all  who  had  opposed  his  au- 
thority, Sennacherib  prepared  to  measure  arms  with 
King  Hezekiah.  It  appears  from  history  that  the  citi- 
zens of  Ekron  had  deposed  King  Padi,  who  had  been 
loyal  to  Assyria,  and  had  sent  him  in  chains  to  Heze- 
kiah for  safe -keeping.  Having  accepted  the  charge  of 
the  deposed  king,  Hezekiah  had  thereby  become  party 
to  the  rebellion  of  the  Ekronites  against  their  Assyrian 
master.  To  punish  the  King  of  Judah  for  this  com- 
plicity, and  to  compel  him  to  surrender  the  person  of 
Padi,  was  the  double  object  of  Sennacherib  in  invading 
Judea. 

From  the  gates  of  Ekron  the  King  of  Assyria  marched 
to  attack  Jerusalem.  On  his  way  he  captured  many 
smaller  cities,  and  took  not  less  than  two  hundred  thou- 
sand captives.  Having  reached  the  Hoi}'-  City,  he  be- 
sieged it  with  a  determination  which  alarmed  Hezekiah 
and  all  his  men  of  war.  Fearing  a  disastrous  issue  of 
a  persistent  resistance,  Hezekiah  concluded  to  surrender 
conditionally,  and  his  proposal  was  at  once  accepted  by 
Sennacherib.  He  consented  to  surrender  Padi,  and  to 
pay  an  enormous  tribute  in  gold  and  silver  and  the 
chief  treasures  of  his  palace. 

The  terms  of  the  capitulation  are  recorded  in  the 
Bible  and  in  the  Assyrian  annals,  w^hich  records  ao-ree 
in  a  most  remarkable  manner.  In  the  Second  Book  of 
Kings  it  is  said :  "  Now  in  the  fourteenth  year  of  king 


308 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


Hezekiah  did  Seimacherib  king  of  Assyria  come  up 
against  all  the  fenced  cities  of  Judab,  and  took  them. 
And  Hezekiali  king  of  Judah  sent  to  the  king  of  As- 
syria to  Lachish,  saying,  I  have  offended ;  return  from 
me:  that  which  thou  puttest  on  me  will  I  bear.  And 
the  king  of  Assyria  appointed  unto  Hezekiah  king  of 
Judah  three  hundred  talents  of  silver  and  thirty  talents 
of  gold.  And  Hezekiah  gave  him  all  the  silver  that 
was  found  in  the  house  of  the  Lord,  and  in  the  treasures 
of  the  king's  house.  At  that  time  did  Hezekiah  cut  ojff 
the  gold  from  the  doors  of  the  temple  of  the  Lord,  and 
from  the  pillars  which  Hezekiah  king  of  Judah  had 
overlaid,  and  gave  it  to  the  king  of  Assyria. 


5U- 


INSCKIBEU   TABLETS. 


Among  the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  Sennacherib  were 
found  the  inscribed  annals  of  his  reign.  They  cover  a 
period   in  all  of  sixty -six   years,  and  consist  of  three 


*  2  Kings  xviii.,  13-16. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


309 


separate  records.  The  first  consists  of  inscriptions  on 
the  winged  bulls  which  ornamented  one  of  the  grand 
fcigades,  and  extend  over  a  period  of  six  years ;  the  sec- 
ond is  inscribed  on  a  large  barrel-shaped  terra-cotta  cyl- 
inder, embracing  two  years;  and  the  third  is  engraved 
on  a  hexagonal  cylinder  of  the  same  material,  and  in- 
cludes eight  years  in  all.  These  several  records  have 
been  deciphered  by  those  thoroughly  versed  in  the  trans- 
lation of  the  cuneiform  characters,  and  their  translations 
are  accepted  as  correct. 


l^stKIl'IION^   0\    lUt.    WINGED   BULLS, 

The  account  of  his  campaign  against  Hezekiah  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  written  by  Sennacherib  himself,  and 
is  as  follows :  "  Because  Hezekiah,  king  of  Judah,  would 
not  submit  to  my  yoke,  I  came  up  against  him,  and  by 
force  of  arms  and  by  the  might  of  my  power  I  took  forty- 
six  of  his  strong  fenced  cities ;  and  of  the  smaller  towns 
which  were  scattered  about  I  took  and  plundered  a  count- 
less number.  And  from  these  places  I  captured  and  car- 
ried off  as  spoil  two  hundred  thousand  one  hundred  and 


310  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

fifty  people,  old  and  young,  male  and  female,  together 
with  horses  and  mares,  asses  and  camels,  oxen  and  sheep, 
a  countless  multitude.  And  Hezekiah  himself  I  shut  in 
Jerusalem,  his  capital  city,  like  a  bird  in  a  cage,  building 
towers  round  the  city  to  hem  him  in,  and  raising  banks 

of  earth  against  the  gates,  so  as  to  prevent  escape 

Then  upon  this  Hezekiah  there  fell  the  fear  of  my  ai-ms, 
and  he  sent  out  to  me  the  chiefs  and  the  elders  of  Jeru- 
salem with  thirty  talents  of  gold  and  eight  hundred  tal- 
ents of  silver,  and  divers  treasures,  a  rich  and  immense 
booty All  these  things  were  brought  to  me  at  Nin- 
eveh, the  seat  of  my  government,  Hezekiah  having  sent 
them  by  way  of  tribute,  and  as  a  token  of  his  submission 
to  my  power."* 

The  agreement  between  these  two  independent  ac- 
counts is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  coincidences  of 
historic  testimony  on  record,  and  mutually  prove  the  gen- 
eral accuracy  of  the  translations  of  the  Biblical  and  As- 
syrian records.  The  principal  discrepancy  relates  to  the 
amount  of  treasure  demanded  and  given.  Both  state- 
ments correspond  as  to  the  amount  of  gold,  but  there  is 
a  difference  of  five  hundred  talents  in  the  amount  of  sil- 
ver, which  may  be  accounted  for  on  one  of  two  supposi- 
tions: Sennacherib  gives  the  sum  demanded;  the  Bible 
gives  the  sum  paid ;  or,  the  Bible  account  includes  the 
actual  amount  of  money  to  have  been  three  hundred  tal- 
ents of  silver,  while  the  Assyrian  records  comprise  all  the 
precious  metal  received. 

In  less  than  two  years  after  his  return  in  triumph, 
Sennacherib  was  again  in  Palestine.  His  frontier  on  the 
south-west  was  threatened  by  Egypt,  which  claimed  do- 
minion to  Lachish  on   the   extreme  verge   of  the  Holy 

*  Translation  by  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  311 

Land.  He  therefore  besieged  Lacliish  "  with  all  his  pow- 
er," and  determined  to  crush,  if  possible,  an  enemy  which 
had  disputed  his  right  to  hold  in  vassalage  the  kingdoms 
that  bordered  on  the  Mediterranean.  The  example  of 
Egypt  had  revived  the  hopes  of  Hezekiah,  who  had 
thrown  off  his  allegiance  to  Sennacherib,  and  had  en- 
tered into  an  alliance  with  the  Egyptians.  Sennacheiib 
had,  therefore,  a  twofold  object  to  accomplish  in  his  sec- 
ond expedition  to  Palestine.  To  have  his  authority  re- 
spected, he  must  reduce  Hezekiah  to  a  state  of  helpless 
submission,  and  must  crush  with  a  blow  the  daring 
Sethos,  a  powerful  prince  who  ruled  in  Lower  Egypt. 
While  engaged  in  the  siege  of  Lachish,  he  dispatched 
Rab-shakeh,  his  chief  cup-bearer,  and  Rabsaris,  his  chief 
eunuch,  to  summon  Hezekiah  to  an  unconditional  sur- 
render. These  two  high  officers  of  his  court  were  sup- 
ported by  a  strong  body  of  troops,  under  the  command 
of  Tartan.  Their  coming  alarmed  the  king,  and  sent  con- 
sternation to  the  hearts  of  the  people  of  the  Holy  City. 
Standing  "  by  the  conduit  of  the  upper  pool,  which  is  in 
the  highway  of  the  fuller's  field,"  Rab-shakeh  addressed 
the  king's  messengers  in  most  uncourtly  terms,  and  then 
sought  to  excite  the  popular  fears  and  hopes  by  a  direct 
appeal  to  the  people.  "  But  the  people  held  their  peace, 
and  answered  him  not  a  word."  Unable  to  take  the  city 
by  the  force  under  Tartan,  and  disappointed  in  the  effect 
of  his  eloquent  blasphemy,  Rab-shakeh  and  his  colleagues 
returned  to  report  their  ill-success  to  their  royal  master. 
Sennacherib,  however,  resolved  to  make  another  effort  to 
overcome  the  obstinacy  of  Hezekiah,  and  accordingly  sent 
him  an  autograph  letter,  in  which  he  warned  him  not  to 
trust  in  God,  who  could  not  save  him.  "And  Hezekiah 
received  the  letter  of  the  hand  of  the  messengers,  and 
read  it :   and  Hezekiah  M^ent  up  into  the  house  of  the 


312  THRONES  AND   PALACES   OF 

Lord,  and  spread  it  before  the  Lord,"  and  prayed :  "  Lord, 
bow  down  thine  ear,  and  hear :  open.  Lord,  thine  eyes, 
and  see :  and  hear  the  words  of  Sennacherib,  which  hath 
sent  him  to  reproach  the  living  God."  The  king's  prayer 
prevailed.  Isaiah  was  commissioned  to  allay  the  fears 
of  the  good  Hezekiah,  and  to  assure  him :  "  I  will  defend 
this  city,  to  save  it,  for  mine  own  sake,  and  for  my  serv- 
ant David's  sake,"  and  "  I  will  put  my  hook  into  the  nose 
of  Sennacherib  and  my  bridle  into  his  lips,  and  I  will 
turn  him  back  by  the  way  he  came."  "  He  shall  not  come 
into  this  city,  nor  shoot  an  arrow  there,  nor  come  before 
it  with  shield,  nor  cast  a  bank  against  it.  By  the  way 
that  he  came,  by  the  same  shall  he  return,  and  shall  not 
come  into  this  city,  saith  the  Lord."* 

These  prophetic  words  received  a  fulfillment  beyond 
their  seeming  scope.  From  Lachish  and  Libnah,  Sen- 
nacherib advanced  to  Pelusium,  where  Sethos  was  en- 
camped with  his  Egyptian  host.  The  time  was  proba- 
bly coincident  with  the  prayer  of  Hezekiah  in  the  house 
of  the  Lord.  The  day  had  declined,  and  the  shadows  of 
ni^ht  were  fallins^  on  the  embattled  hosts.  The  mor- 
row  was  to  be  the  day  of  battle.  To  the  coming  of  that 
morn  the  Egyptians  looked  forward  with  anxious  fears ; 
the  Assyrians,  with  confidence  as  to  the  issues  of  the 
combat.  But  no  morrow  was  to  come  to  the  hosts  sleep- 
ing peacefully  in  the  tents  of  Assyria.  "And  it  came  to 
pass  that  night,  that  the  angel  of  the  Lord  went  out,  and 
smote  in  the  camp  of  the  Assyrians  a  hundred  fourscore 
and  five  thousand:  and  when  they  arose  early  in  the 
morning,  behold,  they  were  all  dead  corpses."t 

From  that  unfought  battle  Sennacherib  returned  to 
Nineveh  shorn  of  his  glory,  and  leaving,  as  the  ghastly 


*  2  Kinffs  xix.  t  3  Kings  xix.,  35. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


313 


JEWISH    CAPTIVES. 


monument  of  his  defeat,  one  hundred  and  eighty -five 
thousand  Assyrian  corpses,  to  be  swept  by  the  simoom 
and  devoured  by  the  vulture  and  hyena.  It  is  not 
strange  that  he  has  left  no  record  of  that  terrible  reverse 
to  his  military  success.  His  annals  thereon  are  silent 
as  the  voiceless  dead  he  had  abandoned  unburied.  He 
would  not  perpetuate  the  memory  of  his  own  overthrow. 
Jerusalem  and  Pelusium  were  cities  to  be  forgotten. 
Hezekiah  and  Sethos  were  names  to  be  consigned  to 
oblivion.  In  all  time  to  come,  the  West  was  to  be 
avoided  as  the  land  of  ill-fortune.  He  was  content  to 
hand  down  to  coming  generations  that  he  had  compelled 
Hezekiah  to  pay  him  tribute,  and  to  have  sculptured  on 
the  walls  of  his  palace  the  forms  of  the  Jewish  captives 
taken  in  a  previous  campaign.  His  subsequent  years 
were  spent  in  wars  against  Babylon,  Susiana,  and  Cili- 
cia;  and  his  obituary  is  thus  written  by  the  inspired 
penman:  "And  it  came  to  pass,  as  Sennacherib  was  wor- 
shiping in  the  house  of  Nisroch  his  god,  that  Adramme- 
lech  and  Sharezer  his  sous  smote  him  with  the  sword."* 


*  2  Kings  xix.,  37, 


314  THBONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

Among  the  ruins  of  his  pahace  was  found  his  will, 
which  is  considered  the  earliest  copy  of  a  will  extant. 
The  translation  is  as  follows:  "Sennacherib,  king  of  mul- 
titudes. King  of  Assyria,  has  given  chains  of  gold,  stores 
of  ivory,  a  cup  of  gold,  crowns  and  chains  besides,  all  the 
riches,  of  which  there  are  heaps,  crystal  and  another  pre- 
cious stone  and  bird's  stone :  one  and  a  half  manehs, 
two  and  a  half  cibi,  according  to  their  weight :  to  Esar- 
haddon  my  son,  who  was  afterward  named  Asshur-ebil- 
mucin-pal,  according  to  my  wish ;  the  treasure  of  the 
Temple  of  Amuk  and  Nebo-irik-erba,  the  harpists  of 
Nebo."* 

From  the  j^alace  of  Sennacherib,  we  passed  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  to  the  north-west,  and  entered  the  long,  deep 
trenches  which  had  been  made  to  uncover  the  once  mag- 
nificent palace  of  Asshur-bani-pal,  the  grandson  of  Sen- 
nacherib, and  the  Sardanapalus  of  the  Greeks  and  Ro. 
mans.  The  honor  of  discovering  the  site  of  this  cele- 
brated structure  belongs  to  Mr.  Hormuzd  Kassam,  who 
was  our  mentor  on  this  interesting  occasion.  The  royal 
structure  resembled  in  general  outline  a  gigantic  cross, 
and  it  is  supposed  that  in  the  western  arm  thereof  were 
the  private  apartments  of  the  monarch.  Here  was  a 
grand  hall,  one  hundred  and  forty -five  feet  long  and 
thirty  feet  wide,  which  opened  into  a  large  court  paved 
with  slabs,  on  which  were  traced  designs  of  exquisite 
beauty.  From  this  court  there  were  openings  into 
smaller  rooms,  and  on  the  south  and  south-west  of  these 
was  a  second  spacious  court.  In  the  eastern  arm  of  the 
cross  was  a  grand  hall,  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  in 
length  and  twenty-four  feet  in  breadth,  in  the  centre  of 
which  was  a  door-way  that  opened  into  a  square  ante- 

*  "  Records  of  the  Past,"  vol.  i.,  p.  136. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  315 

Chamber,  and  into  another  apartment  eighty  feet  long. 
The  central  portion  of  the  building  was  reached  by  a 
long,  ascending  gallery  adorned  with  sculptures,  and  at 
the  entrance  of  which  was  a  gate- way  of  extraordinary 
beaut}^  No  other  Assyrian  palace  was  comparable  to 
this  in  the  elaborate  character  and  elegant  finish  of  its 
ornamentation.  The  flowery  pavement  of  the  courts,  the 
rosetted  ceilings  of  the  arched  door-ways,  the  minute  and 
delicate  reliefs  on  alabaster  slabs  that  lined  the  walls  of 
hall  and  court  and  chamber,  imparted  to  the  whole  an 
elegance  nowhere  else  api3arent  in  Nineveh. 

And  the  sculptures  in  relief  expressed  the  tastes  of 
the  king.  He  loved  flowers  and  trees  and  birds ;  he 
was  fond  of  the  chase ;  he  delighted  in  aquatic  sports, 
and  had  them  portrayed  on  the  marble.  As  a  hunter, 
he  excelled  all  his  royal  predecessors.  He  hunted  the 
stag,  the  gazelle,  the  wild  ass,  and  the  lion.  He  is  repre- 
sented as  hunting  in  the  j)arks  attached  to  his  palace, 
wherein  lions  were  kept  in  cages,  and  turned  loose  for 
him  to  kill.  Now  he  hunts  from  his  chariot ;  anon,  on 
horseback;  again,  on  foot.  Now  he  is  attended  by  armed 
warriors  and  protected  by  a  shield,  and  dead  and  dying 
lions  lie  scattered  around  him,  transfixed  with  his  ar- 
rows. In  moments  of  greater  daring,  he  is  on  foot  in 
single-handed  combat  with  the  lion,  who  is  speared  by 
the  kingly  hunter.  The  return  from  the  hunt  is  cele- 
brated by  music,  and  by  the  king  pouring  a  libation  on 
the  body  of  a  dead  lion.  Although  living  in  a  coun- 
try where  the  seclusion  of  woman  is  a  proverb,  yet  he  so 
far  disregarded  the  conventional  customs  of  society  as 
to  have  his  queen  represented  as  being  present  at  some 
royal  banquet.  Nor  did  he  fail  to  perpetuate  the  sad- 
der, grander  details  of  war.  The  assault  and  the  defense, 
the  flight  and  the  pursuit,  the  gathering  of  the  spoils, 


316 


THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


the  capture  and  cruel 
treatment  of  tlie  prison- 
ers, are  delineated  with 
a  master's  hand. 

Coming  to  the  throne 
in  the  year  668  b.c,  he 
was  ambitious  to  en- 
laro;e  his  dominions  and 
subdue  all  his  enemies. 
He  pursued  the  fugitive 
Tirhakah  from  Mem- 
phis to  Thebes,  and 
compelled  Urdamane  to 
fly  in  the  same  direc- 
tion. Having  marched 
in  triumph  along  the 
Syrian  coast,  he  crossed 
the  Taurus  range,  and 
penetrated  Asia  Minor 
to  a  point  never  before 
visited  by  an  Assyrian 
monarch.  Elam,  Chal- 
dea,  and  Arabia  felt  the 
power  of  his  arms,  and 
yielded  to  a  warrior 
whom  it  was  madness 
to  oppose.  But  his  fa- 
miliarity with  blood  in 
war  and  in  the  chase 
made  him  cruel  and 
vindictive.  He  prac- 
ticed tortures,  mutila- 
tions, and  executions  on 
the  prisoners   he  took 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  317 

in  battle,  and  perpetuated  his  modes  of  extreme  pun- 
ishment in  the  bass-reliefs  on  his  palace  walls.  There- 
on may  be  seen  the  helpless  captive  thrust  through 
with  a  spear,  and  his  tongue  torn  from  his  mouth ;  a 
conquered  king  beheaded  on  the  field  of  battle ;  a  pris- 
oner led  to  execution  with  the  head  of  a  friend  sus- 
pended about  his  neck;  a  captive  flayed  alive;  and  the 
victors  returning  home,  each  one  holding  by  its  hair  the 
head  of  some  less  fortunate  combatant.  No  marvel  the 
prophet  called  Nineveh  "  a  bloody  city." 

It  is  a  venerable  saying,  and  confirmed  by  all  history, 
that  "  with  what  measure  ye  mete,  it  shall  be  measured 
to  you  again."  The  sword  of  conquest  was  to  pass  into 
other  hands.  The  day  of  retribution  had  come.  Asshur- 
bani-pal  was  to  witness  the  decline  of  a  monarchy  which 
he  had  crowned  with  glory.  The  end  of  his  great  em- 
pire was  at  hand,  not  from  inherent  weakness  or  prema- 
ture decay,  but  from  a  combination  of  circumstances, 
which  he  was  powerless  to  resist.  Coming  from  the  fro- 
zen regions  of  the  North,  the. brave,  the  cruel,  the  count- 
less Scythians  overran  the  richest  portions  of  Assyria,  be- 
sieged and  plundered  many  of  the  oldest  cities,  rich  in 
the  accumulated  stores  of  ages,  and  wantonly  burned  the 
noblest  palace  of  the  empire.  They  found  it  a  garden ; 
they  left  it  a  wilderness.  In  their  barbarous  cruelty, 
they  flayed  their  enemies  alive ;  they  drank  their  blood ; 
they  stripped  the  scalp  from  the  skull,  to  be  a  trophy  on 
their  horse's  bridle,  and  of  the  skull  they  made  a  drink- 
ing-cup.  Against  such  a  foe,  Asshur-bani-pal  could  not 
successfully  contend.  But  he  was  permitted  to  see  the 
departure  of  an  invader  he  had  failed  to  conquer.  Al- 
though aged,  he  might  have  restored  his  empire  to  some- 
what of  its  former  greatness  ;  but,  after  a  reign  of  forty- 
two  years,  he  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Saracus, 


318  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

destined  to  be  the  last  kins;  of  ancient  and  renowned 
Assyria. 

The  enemies  of  the  father  were  the  enemies  of  the  son. 
The  Medes  were  prepared  to  renew  their  effort  for  the 
conquest  of  the  Assyrian  empire.  Tlieir  leader  was  the 
skillful  and  daring  Cyaxares,  who  had  for  his  allies  the 
Susianians,  so  often  defeated  by  the  kings  of  Assyria. 
To  provide  against  the  impending  danger,  Saracus  re- 
solved to  command  in  person  the  defenses  of  his  capital, 
and  to  dispatch  his  general,  Nabopolassar,  to  Babylon,  to 
defend  the  provinces  of  the  South.  But  the  young  king 
had  not  provided  against  a  foe  in  the  person  of  his  chosen 
o-eneral.  Takins;  advantasfe  of  the  difficulties  that  sur- 
rounded  his  monarch,  Nabopolassar  joined  the  allies,  and 
received  as  a  reward  for  his  treacheiy  the  daughter  of 
the  Median  king,  to  be  the  wife  of  his  eldest  son,  the  cel- 
ebrated Nebuchadnezzar.  The  forces  of  the  allies,  un- 
der the  joint  command  of  Cyaxares  and  Nabopolassar, 
marched  against  Nineveh,  and  besieged  the  imperial  city. 
Never  was  a  beleaguered  town  more  bravely  defended. 
If  we  may  credit  Diodorus,  the  allied  army  numbered 
more  than  four  hundred  thousand.  The  siesre  lasted 
during  three  years.  In  the  third  year,  the  floods  accom- 
plished what  the  enemy  had  failed  to  effect.  Supersti- 
tion hastened  a  result  which  embattled  hosts  could  not 
attain.  The  king  gave  heed  to  an  oracle  which  had 
told  him  to  fear  nothing  till  the  river  became  his  enemy. 
The  swollen  and  overflowing  Tigris  had  destroyed  two 
miles  of  the  city  wall.  The  oracle  was  revered  as  di- 
vine. Bereft  of  faith,  conscious  that  all  the  means  of  re- 
sistance were  exhausted,  and  inspired  by  despair,  Sara- 
cus resolved  to  burn  his  palace,  and  perish  in  the  flames 
thereof.  Amidst  the  smoke  and  flame  of  the  royal  abode, 
the  allied  forces  entered  the  city  on  the  side  which  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  319 

floods  had  breached,  and,  having  plundered   it   of  its 
wealth,  left  it  a  desolation. 

Two  Hebrew  prophets  had  foretold  the  fall  of  the  em- 
pire, the  destruction  of  the  capital,  and  the  present  deso- 
late appearance  of  the  site  thereof.  In  a  strain  of  invec- 
tive, astonishing  for  its  richness,  variety,  and  energy,  the 
seer  of  Elkosh  had  denounced  the  Assja'ians,  and  de- 
scribed the  capture  and  destruction  of  Nineveh.  His 
prophecy  is  "  The  Burden  of  Nineveh  ;"  wherein  he  says, 
"I  will  make  thy  grave,  for  thou  art  vile;"  and,  "Woe 
to  the  bloody  city  !  it  is  all  full  of  lies  and  robbery."  Its 
hunting- parks  and  royal  menageries,  wherein  the  kings 
indulged  in  the  pleasures  of  the  chase,  are  referred  to  in 
designation  of  the  place :  "  Where  is  the  dwelling  of  the 
lions,  and  the  feeding-place  of  the  young  lions,  where  the 
lion,  even  the  .old  lion,  walked,  and  the  lion's  whelp,  and 
none  made  them  afraid  ?"  As  if  he  himself  were  there, 
he  repeats  the  orders  to  prepare  to  resist  the  approaching 
foe :  "  Draw  thee  waters  for  the  siege,  fortify  thy  strong- 
holds ;  go  into  clay,  and  tread  the  mortar,  make  strong 
the  brickkiln."  So  vivid  is  his  description  of  the  strug- 
gle that  ensued,  that  one  can  almost  see  and  hear  what 
then  transpired :  "  The  shield  of  his  mighty  men  is  made 
red,  the  valiant  men  are  in  scarlet :  the  chariots  shall  be 
with  flaming  torches  in  the  day  of  his  preparation,  and 
the  fir-trees  shall  be  terribly  shaken.  The  chariots  shall 
rage  in  the  streets,  they  shall  justle  one  against  another 
in  the  broad  ways :  they  shall  seem  like  torches,  they 
shall  run  like  the  lightnings.  He  shall  recount  his 
worthies :  they  shall  stumble  in  their  walk ;  they  shall 
make  haste  to  the  wall  thereof,  and  the  defense  shall  be 
prepared."  Bridging  over,  as  it  were,  the  intervening 
centuiy,  the  prophet  is  an  eye-witjiess  to  the  taking  of 
the  city,  and  chronicles  aforehand  what  subsequently  oc- 


320  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

curred.  Did  the  floods  destroy  tlie  river  wall  of  the 
city  ?  "  The  gates  of  the  rivers  shall  be  opened,  and  the 
palace  shall  be  dissolved."  "  The  gates  of  thy  land  shall 
be  set  wide  open  unto  thine  enemies."  Did  Saracus  burn 
his  palace?  "There  shall  the  fire  devour  thee."  "The 
fire  shall  devour  thy  bars."  "  The  joalace  shall  be  dis- 
solved." Was  there  a  panic  in  the  captured  city  ?  "  Stand, 
stand,  shall  they  cry  ;  but  none  shall  look  back."  Were 
the  victors  enriched  by  the  booty  taken  ?  "  Take  ye  the 
spoil  of  silver,  take  the  spoil  of  gold :  for  there  is  none 
end  of  the  store  and  glory  out  of  all  the  pleasant  furni- 
ture." And  the  prophetic  vision  is  projected  far  beyond 
the  time  of  the  siege,  and  the  traveler  of  to-day  is  the 
witness  to  the  fulfillment  thereof  in  the  desolation  he  be- 
holds. "Nineveh  is  laid  Avaste."  "Thy  people  is  scat- 
tered upon  the  mountains,  and  no  man  gathereth  them." 
Where  once  the  proud  city  stood,  a  marsh  is  created  by 
the  overflow  of  the  Tig-ris  and  the  Khausser.  "  But  Nin- 
eveh  of  old  is  like  a  pool  of  water.""*  Where  formerly 
were  the  garden -homes  of  the  Ninevites,  between  Ku- 
yunjik  and  Nimroud,  are  now  pasture-fields  whereon  the 
Arab  shepherd  feeds  his  sheep  and  goats.  "And  flocks 
shall  lie  down  in  the  midst  of  her."  And  at  the  great 
centres,  where  were  the  magnificent  palaces  of  the  kings, 
where  the  "  rejoicing  city  dwelt  carelessly,  and  said  in 
her  heart,  I  am,  and  there  is  none  beside  me,"  there  "  is 
she  become  a  desolation,  a  place  for  beasts  to  lie  down 
in  !  every  one  that  passeth  by  her  shall  hiss,  and  wag  his 
hand."f 

*  Book  of  Nahum.  t  Zeplianiah  ii.,  14, 15. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  321 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Discovery  of  the  Royal  Library  of  Asshur-bani-pal. — Rawliuson  on  the  Na- 
ture and  Style  of  Assyrian  Writing. — Eminent  Cuneiform  Scholars. —Lay- 
ard's  History  of  the  Process  of  Deciphering  the  Cuneiform  Characters. 
— Triumphant  Success. — Specimens  of  the  Translated  Tal)lets. — Prom- 
issory Note.— Bill  for  the  Sale  of  Slaves. — Deed  of  Conveyance. — Relig- 
ious Views  of  the  Assyrians. — Forms  of  Prayer. — Death  of  a  Righteous 
Man. — Harmony  between  the  Bible  and  the  Assyrian  Records. — Daniel 
in  the  Lion's  Den,  and  his  Companions  in  the  Fiery  Furnace. — Modes  of 
Punishment. — Chaldean  Account  of  the  Creation  and  of  the  Deluge  by 
Berosus. — Original  Account  of  the  Flood  by  the  Assyrians,  Discovered 
by  Mr.  Smith,  and  his  more  recent  Translation  of  the  Same. — Copy  of  the 
Record. — Its  Agreement  and  Disagreement  with  the  Bible. — Probable 
Future  Discoveries,  and  their  Bearing  on  Biblical  Interpretation. — What 
the  United  States  should  do  in  the  Work  of  Exploration. 

Twenty-five  hundred  years  after  the  destruction  of 
the  palace  of  Asshur-bani-pal,  there  was  exhumed  from 
the  ruins  thereof  his  "  Royal  Library."  Consisting  of 
more  than  twenty  thousand  inscribed  terra-cotta  tablets 
and  fragments  of  tablets,  it  contains  the  records  of  the 
past,  and  evinces  the  literary  taste  of  a  king  who  excelled 
all  his  kingly  predecessors  in  his  love  of  learning,  and  in 
the  advancement  of  the  same.  In  the  adjoining  palace 
of  his  grandfather,  Sennacherib,  there  had  also  been  dis- 
covered a  chamber,  whose  floor  was  covered  with  similar 
tablets  to  the  height  of  a  foot,  and  which  room  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  the  depository  for  such  earthen  doc- 
uments. Some  are  broken,  but  many  are  entire ;  and  the 
inscriptions  thereon  are  as  distinct  to-day  as  when  the 
impression  was  made  upon  the  plastic  clay.  Some  are 
slightly  convex,  and  an  inch  in  length ;  others  are  flat, 

21 


322  THRONES  AND  FALACES   OF 

and  measure  nine  inches  in  length  and  six  inches  in 
breadth.  They  contain  comparative  vocabularies,  lists  of 
deities  and  their  epithets,  chronological  tables  of  kings, 
records  of  astronomical  observations,  grammars,  histo- 
ries, scientific  works  of  various  kinds,  and  royal  decrees. 
Others  contain  the  names  of  the  months,  a  list  of  weights 
and  measures,  the  Assyrian  calendar,  a  code  of  laws,  a 
table  of  square  roots,  private  business  contracts,  prayers 
for  protection  against  the  Evil  Spirit,  omens,  hymns,  the 
relio^ious  belief  of  the  Assyrians,  the  movements  of  the 
planet  Venus,  the  eclipses  of  the  moon,  the  vernal  equi- 
nox, royal-birth  portents,  the  names  of  tributary  cities, 
the  annals  of  Sennacherib's  invasion  of  Judea,  and  the 
Assyrian  account  of  the  Deluge. 

Many  of  the  fragments  have  been  put  together  by  pa- 
tient and  laborious  scholars,  and,  having  arranged  the 
broken  parts,  they  have  successfully  translated  the  in- 
scriptions thereon.  From  these  deciphered  records,  we 
are  permitted  to  form  a  general  idea  of  tlie  manners  and 
customs,  of  the  arts  and  literature,  of  the  religion  and 
history,  of  a  people  of  whose  remarkable  civilization 
we  have  hitherto  known  but  little.  And,  inferring  the 
future  from  the  past,  we  may  confidently  look  for  addi- 
tional information  as  the  work  of  cuneiform  translation 
is  successfully  advanced. 

"  We  may  now  proceed  to  consider  the  style  and  nat- 
ure of  the  Assyrian  writing.  Derived  evidently  from 
the  Chaldean,  it  is  far  less  archaic  in  type,  presenting  no 
pictorial  representations  of  objects,  and  Init  a  few  cliar- 
acters  where  the  pictorial  representation  can  be  traced. 
It  is  in  no  case  wholly  rectilinear ;  and  indeed  preserves 
the  straight  line  only  in  a  very  few  characters,  as  in 
1^^  for  'house,'  iT^^  for  'gate,'  g[  for  'temple,  al- 
tar,' and  ^>-»  for '  fish,'  all  which  are  in  the  latter  inscrip- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  323 

tioDS  superseded  by  simpler  forms.  The  wedge  may 
thus  be  said  to  be  almost  the  sole  element  of  the  writ- 
ing— the  wedge,  however,  under  a  great  variety  of  forms 

— sometimes  greatly  elongated,  as  thus  * ,  sometimes 

contracted  to  a  triangle  >,  sometimes  broadened  out  y, 
sometimes  doubled  in  such  a  way  as  to  form  an  arrow- 
head ^,  and  placed  in  every  direction — horizontal,  per- 
pendicular, and  diagonal. 

"The  number  of  characters  is  very  great.  Sir  H. 
Rawlinson,  in  the  year  1851,  published  a  list  of  two  hun- 
dred and  forty-six,  or,  including  variants,  three  hundred 
and  sixty-six  characters,  as  occurring  in  the  inscriptions 
known  to  him.  M.  Oppert,  in  1858,  gave  three  hundred 
and  eighteen  forms  as  those  '  most  in  use.'  Of  course  it 
is  at  once  evident  that  this  alphabet  can  not  represent 
elementary  sounds.  The  Assyrian  charactei's  do,  in  fact, 
correspond,  not  to  letters,  according  to  our  notion  of  let- 
ters, but  to  syllaV)les.  These  syllables  are  either  mere 
vowel  sounds,  such  as  we  represent  by  our  vowels  and 
diphthongs,  or  such  sounds  accompanied  by  one  or  two 
consonants.  The  vowels  are  not  very  numerous.  The 
Assyrians  recognize  three  only  as  fundamental — a,  i, 
and  u.  Besides  these  they  have  the  diphthongs  ai,  near- 
ly equivalent  to  e ,'  and  an,  nearly  equivalent  to  o.  The 
vowels  i  and  u  have  also  the  powers,  respectively,  of  // 
and  V. 

"The  consonant  sounds  recoojnized  in  the  lano-uao-e 
are  sixteen  in  number.  They  are  the  labial,  guttural, 
and  dental  te?ives,2:),h,t;  the  labial,  guttural,  and  dental 
medice,  h,  <j,  d ;  the  guttural  and  dental  aspirates,  M 
(=  Heb.  n)  and  tli  (=  Greek  0);  the  liquids  l,m,n,r' 
and  the  sibilants  -s,  sli  (=  Heb.  -d),  fs  (=  Heb.  2),  and  z. 
The  system  here  is  nearly  that  of  the  Hebrew,  from 
which  it  differs  only  by  the  absence  of  the  simple  as23i- 


324  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

rate  n,  of  the  guttural  7,  and  of  the  aspirated  s  (^ph).  It 
has  no  sound  which  the  Hebrew  has  not. 

"  From  these  sounds,  combined  with  the  simple  vow- 
els, comes  the  Assyrian  syllabarium,  to  which,  and  not  to 
the  consonants  themselves,  the  characters  were  assigned. 
In  the  first  place,  each  consonant  being  capable  of  two 
combinations  with  each  simple  vowel,  could  give  birth 
naturally  to  six  simple  syllables,  each  of  which  would  be 
in  the  Assyrian  system  represented  by  a  character.  Six 
characters,  for  instance,  entirely  different  from  one  anoth- 
er, represented  ^;«,  ^^,  p>ih  <^Pi  W^  W  /  ^^^  others,  ht^  h',  kii, 
ah,  ik,  lik ;  six  others,  again,  ta,  ti,  tu^  at,  it,  iit.  If  this 
rule  were  carried  out  in  every  case,  the  sixteen  consonant 
sounds  would,  it  is  evident,  produce  ninety-six  characters. 
The  actual  number,  however,  found  in  this  way  is  only 
seventy-five,  since  there  are  seven  of  the  consonants  which 
only  combine  with  the  vowels  in  one  way.  Thus  we 
have  ha,  hi,  hu,  but  not  ah,  ih,  uh  ;  ga,  gi,  gu,  but  not  ag, 
ig,  ug  ;  and  so  on.  The  sounds  regarded  as  capable  of 
only  one  combination  are  the  medice,  h,  g,  d ;  the  aspirates 
hli,  tli;  the  sibilants  ts  and  z. 

"  Such  is  the  first  and  simplest  syllabarium :  but  the 
Assyrian  system  does  not  stop  here.  It  proceeds  to  com- 
bine with  each  simple  vowel  sounds  two  consonants,  one 
preceding  the  vowel,  and  the  other  following  it.  If  this 
plan  were  followed  out  to  the  utmost  possible  extent, 
the  result  would  be  an  addition  to  the  syllabarium  of 
seven  hundred  and  sixty -eight  sounds,  each  having  its 
proper  character,  which  would  raise  the  number  of  char- 
acters to  between  eight  and  nine  hundred  !  Fortunately 
for  the  student,  phonetic  laws  and  other  causes  have  in- 
tervened to  ch^ck  this  extreme  luxuriance ;  and  the  com- 
binations of  this  kind  which  are  known  to  exist,  instead 
of  amounting  to  the  full  limit  of  seven  hundred  and  six- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  325 

ty-eight,  are  under  one  hundred  and  fifty.  The  known 
Assyrian  alphabet  is,  however,  in  this  way  raised  from 
eighty,  or,  including  variants,  one  hundred,  to  between 
two  hundred  and  forty  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  char- 
acters. 

"  Further,  there  is  another  kind  of  character,  quite 
different  from  these,  which  Orientalists  have  called  '  de- 
terminatives.' Certain  classes  of  words  have  a  sign 
prefixed  or  suffixed  to  them,  most  commonly  the  former, 
by  which  their  general  character  is  indicated.  The 
names  of  godsf  of  men,  of  cities,  of  tribes,  of  wild  an- 
imals, of  domestic  animals,  of  metals,  of  months,  of  the 
points  of  the  compass,  and  of  dignities,  are  thus  accom- 
panied. The  sign  prefixed  or  suffixed  may  have  origi- 
nally represented  a  word  ;  but  when  used  in  the  way  here 
spoken  of,  it  is  believed  that  it  was  not  sounded,  but 
served  simply  to  indicate  to  the  reader  the  sort  of  word 
which  was  placed  before  him.  Thus,  a  single  perpendic- 
ular wedge,  f ,  indicates  that  the  next  word  will  be  the 
name  of  a  man  ;  such  a  wedge,  preceded  by  two  horizon- 
tal ones,  *J",  tells  us  to  expect  the  appellative  of  a  god; 
while  other  more  comj)licated  combinations  are  used  in 
the  remaining  instances.  There  are  about  ten  or  twelve 
characters  of  this  description. 

"  Finally,  there  a  certain  number  of  characters  which 
have  been  called  '  ideographs,'  or  '  monograms.'  Most  of 
the  gods,  and  various  cities  and  countries,  are  represented 
by  a  group  of  wedges,  which  is  thought  not  to  have  a 
real  phonetic  force,  but  to  be  a  conventional  sign  for  an 
idea,  much  as  the  Arabic  numerals,  1,  2,  3,  etc.,  are  non- 
phonetic  signs  representing  the  ideas,  one,  two,  three,  etc. 
The  known  characters  of  this  description  are  between 
twenty  and  thirty. 

"The  known  Assyrian  characters  are  thus  brought  up 


326  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

nearly  to  three  hundred !  There  still  remain  a  consider- 
able number  which  are  either  wholly  unknown,  or  of 
which  the  meaning  is  known,  while  the  j)honetic  value 
can  not  at  present  be  determined.  M.  Oppert's  Cata- 
logue contains  fourteen  of  the  former  and  iifty-nine  of 
the  latter  class. 

"  It  has  been  already  observed  that  the  monumental 
evidence  accords  with  the  traditional  belief  in  re^-ard  to 
the  character  of  the  Assyrian  language,  which  is  unmis- 
takably Semitic.  Not  only  does  the  vocabulary  present 
constant  analogies  to  other  Semitic  dialects,  but  the  pho- 
netic laws  and  the  grammatical  forms  are  equally  of  this 
type.  At  the  same  time,  the  language  has  peculiarities 
of  its  own,  which  separate  it  from  its  kindred  tongues, 
and  constitute  it  a  distinct  form  of  Semitic  speech,  not  a 
mere  variety  of  any  known  form.  It  is  neither  Hel)rew, 
nor  Arabic,  nor  Phcenician,  nor  Chaldee,  nor  Syriac,  but 
a  sister-tongue  to  these,  having  some  analogies  with  all 
of  them,  and  others,  more  or  fewer,  with  each.  On  the 
whole,  its  closest  relationship  seems  to  be  with  the  He- 
brew, and  its  greatest  divergence  from  the  Aramaic  or 
Syriac,  with  which  it  was  yet,  locally,  in  immediate  con- 
nection."* 

But  the  decipherment  of  the  cuneiform  inscriptions 
on  the  tablets,  the  cylinders,  the  obelisks,  the  bulls, 
and  walls  discovered  at  Nineveh,  required  much  patient 
and  persistent  labor.  There  were,  however,  eminent 
scholars  equal  to  the  task ;  and  all  honor  to  Grotefend, 
Dr.  Hinks,  M.  Oppert,  Mr.  Norris,  Fox  Talbot,  Sir  Hen- 
ry Rawlinson,  G.  Smith,  and  Mr.  Layard,  who  have  not 
only  overcome  the  chief  difficulties  which  beset  the  sub- 
ject, but  have  had  the  satisftiction  to  know  that  their 

*  Rawlinson's  "Ancient  Monarchies,"  vol.  i.,  pp.  268-373. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  327 

translations  have  been  accepted  as  reliable.  At  first  all 
was  conjecture;  then  the  process  of  investigation  was 
purely  tentative  ;  but  conjecture  was  superseded  by  cer- 
tainty, and  the  tentative  by  the  demonstrative.  Step 
by  step  these  patient  toilers  advanced,  till  results  as- 
sured them  of  success.  To  verify  what  had  been  done, 
translations  of  the  same  inscription,  but  made  by  differ- 
ent persons,  were  carefully  compared,  one  with  the  oth- 
er, and  then  compared  with  the  well-ascertained  facts  of 
contemporaneous  history.  By  this  thorough  and  hon- 
orable method  were  the  translations  of  the  Annals  of 
Sennacherib  tested,  and  which  were  found  substantially 
correct  when  compared  with  the  Bible  account  of  his 
wars  against  the  Jews.  And  it  is  no  mean  compliment 
to  the  translators  that  the  French  Academy,  justly  con- 
sidered the  first  literary  and  scientific  body  in  the  world, 
has  recognized  the  progress  made,  the  correctness  of  the 
principles  upon  which  the  decipherment  of  the  cuneiform 
inscriptions  are  based,  and  the  importance  of  the  results 
already  obtained,  by  recommending  one  of  the  foremost 
of  the  translators.  Dr.  Oppert,  as  entitled  to  receive  the 
great  prize  of  twenty  thousand  francs,  conferred  period- 
ically upon  the  author  who  has  rendered  the  greatest 
service  to  literature  or  science.  It  is  to  Mr.  Layard  that 
we  are  indebted  for  the  follow^ing  lucid  account  of  the 
process  and  progress  in  the  difiicult  task  of  deciphering' 
the  Assyrian  inscriptions : 

"Although  our  knowledge  is  far  from  complete,  yet 
the  sculptures  and  inscriptions  have  enabled  us  to  put 
together  a  part  of  the  skeleton  of  Assyrian  history,  and 
to  illustrate  to  a  certain  extent  the  manners,  arts,  sci- 
ences, and  literature  of  the  Assyrian  people.  So  much 
unreasonable  incredulity  still  exists  as  to  the  extent  to 
which  this  has  been  effected  through  the  interDretation 


328  THBOXES  AND  PALACES  OF 

of  tlie  cuneiform  inscriptions,  and  the  evidence  upon 
wliicli  that  interpretation  rests  has  been  so  summarily 
rejected  by  English  writers  of  great  and  deserved  au- 
thority, that  a  short  account  of  the  history  of  cuneiform 
decipherment  may  be  interesting  to  some  of  my  readers, 
and  may  tend  to  remove  those  erroneous  impressions 
which  exist  on  the  subject. 

"The  investigation  of  the  arrow-headed  character  is 
by  no  means  a  new  study.  It  was  first  seriously  at- 
tempted in  the  year  1802  by  Grotefend,  a  learned  Ger- 
man scholar.  "At  that  time  the  only  materials  accessible 
for  this  purpose,  with  the  excej^tion  of  the  well-known 
inscribed  bricks  from  the  ruins  of  Babylon,  were  the  in- 
scriptions carved  on  rocks,  and  on  the  remains  of  edifices 
at  Persepolis  and  Hamadan  (Ecbatana),  and  near  other 
ancient  sites  in  Persia.  Copies  of  these  inscriptions,  more 
or  less  accurate,  had  been  brought  to  Europe  by  various 
travelers  from  the  time  of  Tavernier  and  Chardin.  For- 
tunately, although  short,  they  aftbrded  the  most  impor- 
tant materials  for  breaking  ground  and  taking  the  first 
step  in  the  interpretation  of  the  cuneiform  character. 
They  are  trilingual,  that  is  to  say,  that  the  same  inscrip- 
tion is  I'epeated  three  times  in  a  different  language  and 
in  a  different  character;  but,  unfortunately,  unlike  the 
trilingual  inscription  on  the  celebrated  Rosetta  stone, 
which  furnishes  a  key  for  the  decipherment  of  the  Egyp- 
tian hieroglyphics,  neither  the  languages  nor  the  charac- 
ters were  previously  known  to  us.  The  trilingual  in- 
scriptions of  Persia  are  generally  divided  into  three  par- 
allel columns,  or  arranged  in  three  distinct  tablets,  each 
containing  the  same  inscriptions  expressed  in  a  different 
language,  and  in  a  different  modification  of  the  cunei- 
form character — the  letters  and  signs  in  each  column  be- 
ing formed  by  the  same  elementary  wedges  arranged  in 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  329 

different  combinations  or  groups.  That  the  inscriptions 
are  the  same  is  evident  from  the  fact  of  the  recurrence 
of  the  same  groups  of  letters  or  words  in  each  column  or 
tablet,  at  the  same  regular  intervals.  I  give  a  copy 
herewith  of  one  of  these  trilingual  tablets  from  Per- 
sepolis,  in  order  that  my  readers  may  understand  their 
nature,  and  the  j^rocess  by  which  they  are  decij^hered. 

"It  will  be  perceived  that  the 
lU  i^  ^  combination   of  wedges  forming  a 

'  *A~  nJ^  si^  ^  letter  or  sign  differs  in  each  col- 
*^  *I~  1^  ^^  umn.  The  most  simple  combina- 
i-^  ^  J ^  A>^  tion,  and  that  which  usually  takes 
^  *  A>^  i^  l\^Q  place  of  honor  in  the  first  col- 
I  ^  ^  AA  umn  of  these  tablets,  is  only  found 
on  monuments  of  the  Persian  pe- 
riod ;    and  the  language  of  the  in- 


^  *—  n;^  ^ 

i=^  1^  ^  *A^ 

^  i^  i^  i^ 


^  ^   "^   i^  \     ^^        ^  ^   ^ 

>^    A»—  AAfc=  11       U      5—     ^  ,      ^^rv 


N^ 


}^  ,^     ^  m 


A^  i^  ^;  i^  A^  ^  X  ^i^  i  ft  ^^-  ^ 

si^  ,_  "^  ^  ^Ik  i^  --  ^^  J_  ^  ^  -5 

i^   ^    .^  AAA      .       AAA    *^  ^ 

^=                    »—  ^     AAAi   ^  ^  J_ 

^iLKisr:  ,^*rT"r  ^Jul>^,^ 


First  Column.  Second  Columu.  Third  Column. 

SPECIMEN    OP   A   CUNEIFORM   INSCRIPTION. 


330  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

scriptions  is  allied  to  the  ancient  Sanscrit.  This  is  called 
the  Persian  cuneiforn:^  character.  The  characters  in  the 
second  or  centre  column  are  commonly  called  the  Me- 
dian, or,  more  correctly,  the  Touranian  or  Scythic,  because 
they  are  believed  to  express  a  Touranian  or  Tartar  lan- 
guage, one  of  the  then  families  of  languages  spoken  by 
the  subjects  of  the  ancient  Persian  kings.  The  inscrip- 
tions of  the  third  column  are  in  a  character  and  laufi:ua2:e 
nearly  identical  with  those  of  the  monuments  of  Nineveh 
and  Babylon.  They  have  been,  consequently,  termed  the 
Assyrian  and  the  Babylonian,  or  sometimes  the  Assyro- 
Babylonian. 

"  It  will  be  further  observed  that  in  the  first,  or  Per- 
sian, column  a  single  oblique  arrow-head  or  wedge  con- 
stantly recurs.  It  first  occurred  to  the  German  scholars, 
Tychsen  and  Mtinter,  that  this  sign  might  mark  the  di- 
vision of  words.  This  conjecture  was  confirmed  by  the 
recurrence  of  the  same  group  of  letters  forming  a  word, 
sometimes  with  terminal  variations  which  might  indi- 
cate case-endings,  marked  off,  as  it  were,  by  these  single 
oblique  wedges.  Instances  of  this  will  be  perceived  in 
the  first  and  second  lines  of  the  inscription  which  I  have 
given.  A  comparison  of  a  number  of  inscriptions  led 
to  the  further  discovery  that,  while  the  greater  number 
of  words  or  groups  of  signs  in  each  were  generally  the 
same,  certain  groups  had  disappeared,  and  other  groups, 
which  had  before  appeared  in  another  part  of  the  in- 
scription, had  taken  their  place.  These,  again,  were  suc- 
ceeded by  a  new  group.  This  circumstance  led  Grote- 
fend  to  conjecture  that  these  signs  so  changing  position 
represented  proper  names  of  persons  in  the  relation  of 
father  and  son,  and  that  when  a  new  king  had  ascended 
the  throne  his  name  appeared  in  the  place  of  his  prede- 
cessor.    The  name  of  the  grandfather  would  then  disap- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  331 

pear  altogether,  and  be  replaced  by  tbat  of  the  father. 
For  instance,  if  in  one  inscription  Darius  was  called  the 
sou  of  Hystaspes,  in  a  second,  carved  after  his  death, 
Xerxes  would  be  called  son  of  Darius,  the  name  of  Da- 
rius taking  the  place  of  that  of  Hystaspes,  which  would 
no  longer  be  found  in  the  inscription. 

"  This  ingenious  conjecture  led  to  the  discovery  of  the 
clue  to  the  decipherment  of  the  inscriptions,  and  Grote- 
fend  assumed  that  these  groups  of  letters  or  signs  were 
the  names  of  these  very  Persian  kings.  Supposing  such 
to  be  the  case,  and  admitting  that  the  ancient  Persian 
forms  of  these  names  varied  considerably  from  those 
handed  down  to  us  by  the  Greeks,  yet  he  felt  convinced 
that  the  value  of  certain  letters  in  them  must  be  the 
same.  By  various  tentative  processes  he  satisfied  him- 
self that  he  had  hit  upon  the  right  names,  and  that  he 
had  determined  the  proper  value  of  some,  if  not  all,  the 
letters  composing  them.  This  enabled  him  to  verify  the 
conjecture,  based  upon  historical  evidence,  that  the  lan- 
guage of  the  inscription  was  in  Indo-Germanic  dialect, 
spoken  in  Pei'sia  at  the  time  of  the  Macedonian  con- 
quest, and  allied  to  the  Zend  or  Sanscrit,  and  conse- 
quently, in  a  certain  degree,  to  the  modern  Persian. 

"  Proceeding  always  in  the  same  tentative  way,  Grote- 
fend  next  attempted  a  translation  of  some  of  the  in- 
scriptions, and  the  results  of  his  investigations  and  an 
analysis  of  his  method  of  interpretation  were  given  in 
an  appendix  to  Heeren's  work  on  the  principal  nations 
of  antiquity,  which  was  published  in  1815. 

"  Lassen, Ilask,Burnouf,  and  other  eminent  Sanscrit  and 
Oriental  scholars,  applied  themselves  to  the  examination 
of  Grotefend's  system  and  his  interpretations,  bringing 
to  bear  upon  the  inquiry  a  profoundei'  knowledge  of  the 
ancient  Indo-Germanic  tongues  than  he  claimed  to  pos- 


332  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

sess,  though  scarcely  more  skill  and  ingenuity  as  deci- 
pherers. Through  their  labors,  what  had  been  at  first 
the  result  of  hap])\  conjecture  was  reduced  to  a  certainty. 
It  was  proved  that  Grotefend  had  been  mistaken  in  the 
value  he  had  assigned  to  several  letters,  but  that  he  had 
been  right  in  his  method  of  interpretation,  and  in  his 
conjectures  of  the  names  of  the  kings  contained  in  the 
inscriptions  which  he  had  examined. 

"The  short  trilingual  inscription  which  I  have  given 
contains  the  name  of  Xerxes,  and  may  be  translated  thus : 

khshiyArsha.khshayathiya.wazar- 

Xerxes  the  king  great 

-KA.KHSHAYATHIYA.KHSHAYATHIYl- 
Tbe  king  of  kings ; 

-NAM.DARYAVHAUSH.KHSHlYATH- 
Of  Darius  the  king. 

-lYAHYl.PUTRA.HAK.HAMANISHIYA. 
the  son  the  Achsemeuid. 

"  Hitherto  the  materials  for  the  investigation  of  the 
cuneiform  character  had  been  comparatively  limited.  The 
inscriptions  copied  by  travelers  in  Persia  were  short, 
rarely  consisting  of  more  than  ten  or  twelve  lines,  and 
they  were  for  the  most  of  nearly  the  same  import.  A 
trilingual  inscription  of  great  length  was  known  to  ex- 
ist on  the  rock  of  Behistuu,  near  Kermanshah,  on  the 
western  frontiers  of  Persia ;  but  it  was  in  a  position  in- 
accessible to  the  ordinary  traveler,  and  too  high  to  ad- 
mit of  its  being  copied  from  below.  Sir  Henry  Eawlin- 
son  was  the  first  to  obtain  an  imperfect  transcript  of  it 
by  the  aid  of  a  powerful  telescope  in  the  year  1835  ;  but 
it  was  not  until  1844  that,  assisted  by  Captain  Jones, 
and  other  gentlemen  attached  to  the  mission  at  Bagdad, 
he  was  able  to  reach  the  tablets,  and  to  make  copies  and 
paper  casts  of  the  inscriptions.  Like  those  of  Persepolis 
and  Hamadan,  they  consist  of  the  same  record,  repeated 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  333 

three  times  in  the  three  languages  spoken  by  the  three 
great  races  under  the  dominion  of  the  Persian  kings,  and 
written  in  different  modifications  of  the  cuneiform  charac- 
ter. The  Persian  column  contains  no  less  than  four  hun- 
dred and  six  lines.  The  application  of  this  great  inscrip- 
tion of  the  key  furnished  by  the  short  records  previous- 
ly deciphered  by  Grotefend  and  other  investigators,  com- 
pletely corroborated  the  soundness  of  their  system  of  in- 
terpretation. The  Behistun  tablets  were  found  to  con- 
tain a  narrative  of  the  princij^al  events  of  the  reign  of 
Darius,  the  son  of  Hystaspes,  which,  in  many  respects, 
coincide  with  those  recorded  by  the  Greek  historians. 
The  effigy  of  the  king  himself  is  sculptured  on  the  rock. 
Behind  him  stand  his  attendants,  and  in  front  are  nine 
captive  kings  or  chiefs,  one  of  whom  lies  prostrate  at  his 
feet.  Above  each  figure  are  short  trilingual  inscriptions, 
recording  the  name  of  the  person  represented. 

"  By  the  aid  of  the  Behistun  inscription,  which  has  fur- 
nished the  most  ample  and  reliable  materials  we  yet  pos- 
sess for  the  investigation  of  the  cuneiform  characters.  Sir 
Henry  Rawlinson  has  been  able  to  add  largely  to  the 
results  obtained  by  Grotefend,  Lassen,  Burnouf,  and  oth- 
ers, from  the  scanty  records  in  their  possession.  He  pub- 
lished the  text  of  the  Persian  column,  with  a  complete 
translation  of  it,  in  the  '  Journal '  of  the  Royal  Asiatic 
Society  for  1846.  This  translation  has  been  subjected  to 
the  most  rigorous  examination  and  criticism  by  Sanscrit 
scholars ;  and  those  who  have  taken  the  trouble  to  ac- 
quaint themselves  with  the  subject,  and  are  competent 
to  form  an  opinion  upon  it,  do  not  hesitate  to  admit  that 
the  interpretation  of  the  Persian  cuneiform  is  placed  be- 
yond a  doubt. 

"  The  Persian  column  of  the  trilingual  inscription  hav- 
ing thus  been  deciphered,  a  key  was  afforded  to  the  in- 


334  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

terj^retation  of  the  two  other  inscriptions,  supposing  al- 
ways that  their  contents  were  the  same,  and  that  the  lan- 
o-uasfe  was  one  which  either  still  existed  or  was  allied  to 
one  still  spoken  or  written.  That  the  contents  of  the  three 
inscriptions  were  the  same  was  evident  from  the  corre- 
sponding recurrence  of  certain  groups  in  each  column. 
But  Assyro- Babylonian  inscriptions  offered  far  greater 
difficulties  than  the  Persian.  The  letters  or  signs  used 
in  the  Persian  were  limited  in  number,  not  exceeding 
thirty-six ;  and,  as  we  have  seen,  each  woi'd  was  sepa- 
rated, and  marked  by  an  oblique  wedge.  In  the  Assyri- 
an inscription  there  was  no  division  between  the  words; 
the  letters  and  signs  seemed  not  only  to  be  unlimited  in 
number,  but  to  be  used  in  the  most  arbitrary  manner. 
As,  however,  the  inscriptions  contained  names  of  persons, 
countries,  cities,  etc.,  many  of  which  could  be  identified 
wdth  those  preserved  in  classical  or  Biblical  literature, 
the  value  of  many  letters  could  be  determined  with  suf 
ficient  confidence ;  and  thus  a  clue  was  afforded  to  a  few 
words  of  constant  recurrence,  and  proof  afforded  that  the 
language  of  the  Assyro-Babylonian  inscriptions,  as  might 
have  been  expected,  was  a  Semitic  dialect,  allied  to  the 
Chaldee,  Hebrew,  Arab,  and  other  cognate  languages, 
either  still  existins;  or  of  which  written  remains  have 
been  preserved. 

"  While  European  scholars  were  thus  occupied  in  de- 
ciphering the  trilingual  tablets,  the  discoveries  of  Nim- 
roud,  Khorsabad,  and  Kouyunjik,  and  among  other  As- 
syrian ruins,  furnished  a  vast  number  of  inscriptions, 
which  will  afford  materials  for  years  to  come  for  the 
study  of  the  cuneiform  character.  During  the  excava- 
tions in  Assyria,  I  was  too  much  occupied  to  be  able  to 
devote  much  time  to  the  decipherment  of  the  inscrip- 
tions; but,  while  copying  them,  I  w^as  able  to  compare 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  335 

them,  and  to  classify  to  a  certain  extent  the  various  signs 
and  letters  which  they  contain.  One  fact  soon  became 
evident  to  me — that  the  Assyrians,  unlike  the  Persians, 
rarely,  if  ever,  divided  a  word  at  the  end  of  a  line,  pre- 
ferring to  finish  it  by  cutting  letters  on  the  sculpture  it- 
self, or  on  the  side  or  even  back  of  a  slab.  As  the  '  Stand- 
ard inscription'  of  the  north-west  palace  of  Nimroud, 
containing  the  names,  titles,  and  part  of  the  annals  of  the 
founder  of  the  edifice,  was  repeated  upon  almost  every 
slab  discovered  in  the  ruins,  and  in  every  variety  of 
space,  sometimes  only  one  or  two  letters  forming  a  line, 
I  was  able,  by  a  careful  comparison  of  the  endings,  to  de- 
termine and  mark  oif  almost  every  word  in  the  inscrij:)- 
tion.  I  soon,  also,  found,  by  the  relative  position  of  cer- 
tain groups,  the  signs  or  letters  marking  the  names  of 
the  kings,  their  titles,  and  the  names  of  their  fothers,  and, 
in  many  instances,  of  their  grandfathers. 

"  On  my  return  to  England  from  my  first  expedition, 
I  edited,  for  the  trustees  of  the  British  Museum,  a  vol- 
ume containing  transcripts  of  inscriptions  from  Nimroud, 
Kouyunjik,  Kalah-Sherghat,  and  other  Assyrian  ruins. 
Their  publication,  and  that  of  the  cuneiform  inscriptions 
discovered  by  M.  Botta  at  Khorsabad,  afl:brded  fresh  mate- 
rials for  investigation,  and  several  eminent  scholars  took 
up  the  subject;  among  wdiom  were  the  late  Dr.  Hincks, 
Mr.  Norris,  Mr.  Fox  Talbot,  and  M.  Oppert.  Sir  Henry 
Rawlinson,  in  1850,  announced  that  he  had  succeeded  in 
reading  the  inscription  on  the  black  obelisk  discovered 
in  the  centre  palace  of  Nimroud ;  and  shortly  after,  com- 
municated his  version  of  its  contents  at  a  meeting  of  the 
members  of  the  Royal  Institution.  On  my  return  to  En- 
gland in  1851,  after  my  second  expedition,  I  spent  some 
time  with  Dr.  Hincks,  in  Ii'eland,  in  examining  the  cunei- 
form inscriptions  which  I  had  brought  from  Assyria  and 


336  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

Armenia,  and  I  am  indebted  to  him  for  the  translation 
of  these  inscriptions  which  I  published  in  the  work  of 
which  this  book  is  an  abridgment.  Dr.  Hincks  had  al- 
ready deciphered  the  names  of  Sargon,  Sennacherib,  and 
Esar-haddon,  and  had  thus  proved  that  which  I  had  been 
led  to  conjecture,  from  a  comparison  of  the  monuments 
and  from  other  evidence,  that  the  palaces  at  Kouyunjik 
and  Khorsabad,  and  in  the  south-west  corner  of  the 
mound  of  Nimroud,  owed  their  foundation  to  those 
kintrs.  He  also  determined  the  Assyrian  numerals  from 
the  Wan  inscriptions.  He  had  previously  (in  June,  1846) 
discovered  the  names  of  Nebuchadnezzar  and  Babylon 
on  the  well-known  Babylonian  bricks  from  the  ruins  of 
Hilla.  On  August  23d,  1851,  Sir  Henry  Rawliuson  an- 
nounced in  the  Athenceum  that  he  had  found  in  the  in- 
scriptions from  Kouyunjik  notices  of  the  reign  of  Sennach- 
erib, which  placed  beyond  the  reach  of  dispute  his  his- 
toric identity  ;  and  he  gave  a  recapitulation  of  the  princi- 
pal events  recorded  on  the  monuments,  including  the  war 
with  Hezekiah  and  the  siege  and  capture  of  Lachish. 

"  Constant  additions  were  made  to  our  knowledge  of 
the  contents  of  the  cuneiform  inscriptions  in  communica- 
tions from  Dr.  Hincks,  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  Mr.  Fox 
Talbot,  and  Mr.  Norris,  to  the  '  Journals '  of  the  Eoyal 
Asiatic  Society,  to  the  'Transactions'  of  the  Royal  Irish 
Academy,  to  the  Athenceum,  and  to  other  literary  and  sci- 
entific periodicals.  But  scholars  in  this  country,  whose 
learning  was  limited  to  the  classics,  were  little  inclined 
to  accept  these  interpretations,  and  were  rather  disposed 
to  reject  them  altogether  as  ingenious  fictions.  In  the 
year  1857,  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson  had  superintended  for 
the  Trustees  of  the  British  Museum  the  publication  of  a 
transcript  of  the  inscription  upon  the  clay  cylinders  dis- 
covered at  Kalah-Sherghat.     A  copy  of  this  inscription 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  337 

had  been  sent  to  Mr.  Fox  Talbot  before  its  publication, 
and  before  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson  Lad  placed  before  the 
public  any  account  of  its  contents.  In  March,  Mr.  Fox 
Talbot  forwarded  a  sealed  packet  to  the  late  Professor 
Wilson,  then  President  of  the  Royal  Asiatic  Society,  in- 
closing his  translation  of  the  inscription,  with  a  request 
that  it  might  not  be  opened  until  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson, 
with  whom  he  had  had  no  communication  on  the  sub- 
ject, had  published  the  translation  of  the  same  inscrip- 
tion which  he  had  announced,  adding  his  opinion,  that 
'  all  candid  inquirers  must  -acknowledge  that  if  any  sj^e- 
cial  agreement  should  appear  between  such  independent 
versions,  it  must  indicate  that  they  have  truth  for  their 
basis.' 

"  The  Council  of  the  Royal  Asiatic  Society  considered 
that  this  was  a  favorable  occasion  for  testing  the  general 
accuracy  of  the  interpretation  of  the  cuneiform  writing, 
and  they  requested  not  only  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  but 
Dr.  Hincks  and  M.  Oppert  also,  to  furnish  them  with  the 
ti'anslations  of  the  same  inscription,  under  sealed  covers, 
and  without  any  previous  communication  with  each 
other.  A  committee  of  gentlemen  of  the  highest  liter- 
ary attainments,  and  of  entirely  independent  opinions 
upon  such  matters,  including  Dr.  Mihiian  (the  Dean  of 
St.  Paul's),  Dr.  Whewell,  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  Mr. 
Grote,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Curetou,  and  Professor  Wilson,  were 
named  to  open  the  packets,  and  to  examine  and  report 
upon  the  translations.  Mr.  Cureton,  Dr.  Whewell,  and 
Professor  Wilson  were  absent  when  the  packets  M^ere 
opened ;  but  the  other  three  members  of  the  committee, 
after  having  carefully  examined  and  compared  their  con- 
tents, reported  their  opinions  to  the  Council  of  the  Asi- 
atic Society.  Dr.  Milman  and  Mr.  Grote  certiiled  that 
'  the  coincide-nces   between  the  translations,  both  as  to 

99 


338  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

the  general  sense  and  verbal  rendering,  were  very  re- 
markable. In  most  parts  there  was  a  strong  correspond- 
ence, in  the  meaning  assigned,  and  occasionally  a  curious 
identity  of  expression  as  to  particular  words.  Where  the 
versions  differed  very  materially,  each  translator  had,  in 
many  cases,  marked  the  passage  as  one  of  the  doubtful 
or  unascertained  signification.  In  the  interpretation  of 
numbers  there  was  throughout  a  singular  correspond- 
ence.' Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  in  a  separate  report,  ex- 
pressed himself  somewhat  more  strongly  in  favor  of  the 
decipherers,  and  declared  that  '  the  resemblance  (very 
often  exactly  the  same,  word  for  word)  was  so  great  as 
to  render  it  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  the  interpre- 
tation could  be  arbitrary,  or  based  on  uncertain  grounds. 
Professor  Wilson  declares  in  his  report  to  the  society 
that,  '  upon  the  whole,  the  result  of  this  experiment — 
than  which  a  fairer  test  could  scarcely  be  desired — may 
be  considered  as  establishing  almost  definitively  the  cor- 
rectness of  the  valuation  of  the  characters  of  these  in- 
scriptions.' " 

By  the  translations  made  by  these  eminent  cuneiform 
scholars,  we  are  permitted  to  know  more  definitely  much 
of  the  daily  life  of  the  Assyrians.  From  them  we  ob- 
tain a  clearer  and  fuller  idea  of  the  activity  of  trade  and 
business  in  Western  Asia  in  the  seventh  and  eighth  cen- 
turies before  our  own  era.  By  them  we  are  informed 
of  the  religious  belief  of  a  people  who  existed  prior  to 
Moses  and  the  prophets ;  and  they  confirm,  in  a  very  re- 
markable degree,  the  historic  portions  of  the  Biljle. 

From  these  deciphered  tablets  we  learn  that  the  As- 
syrians bought  and  sold  houses  and  slaves  and  other 
kinds  of  property  ;  that  they  drew  the  deeds  of  sale,  the 
leases,  and  promissory  notes  with  a  care  and  detail  not 
unworthy  a  modern  lawyer;  that  they  loaned  money 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  339 

and  goods  at  three  and  four  per  cent. ;  and  that  security 
for  the  loan  was  often  taken  in  houses  or  other  property. 
To  these  transactions  the  names  and  seals  of  competent 
witnesses  were  affixed  ;  and  when  they  were  too  poor  to 
possess  a  seal,  they  made  in  the  soft  clay  their  nail-mark, 
which  was  considered  sufficient.  All  this  appreciation 
and  interchanging  of  property  led  to  testamentary  devo- 
lution, and  to  the  accumulation  of  these  legal  documents. 
Among  the  many  business  contracts  exhumed  and 
translated  are  the  following,  w^hich  relate  to  the  loan  of 
money,  the  sale  of  seven  slaves,  and  the  transfer  of  a 
piece  of  property : 

PROMISSORY    NOTE. 

"  Four  manehs  of  silver  according  to  the  standard  of  Carchemisli,  -wliieh 
Neriglissar,  in  the  presence  of  Nebo-sum-iddin,  son  of  Nebo-rahim-baladhi, 
the  Keeper  of  the  Crown,  from  the  City  of  Dur-Sargon,  lends  out  at  five 
shekels  of  silver  per  month  interest.  The  26th  day  of  the  month  lyyar, 
during  the  eponyni  of  Gabbaru.  The  witnesses  (were):  Nebo-pal-iddin, 
Nebo-atsib,  the  holder  of  the  two  sceptres,  Akhi-ramu,  of  the  same  office, 

Assur-dauin-sarri,  of  the  same  office,  Disi  the  astronomer,  Samas-igur , 

Sinmati-kali  the  executioner,  (and)  Merodach the  astronomer." 

BILL  OF  SALE  FOR  SLAVES. 
"  The  seal  of  Ebed-Istar,  the  master  of  the  men.  The  giving-up  of  Ho- 
shea,  his  two  wives  Mih'sa  (and)  Badia,  'Sigaba,  Bel-kharran-cunucci,  (and) 
his  two  daughters,  in  all  seven  persons,  slaves,  whom  Ebed-Istar  has  sold; 
and  'Simadi  for  three  manehs  of  silver  has  taken.  The  whole  sum  hast 
thou  given.  The  exchange  (and)  the  contract  are  finished :  (there  is)  no 
withdrawal.  The  witnesses  (are)  Bel-nuri  the  priest,  Amyatchu,  'Sangi, 
Kat-i-sa,  (and)  'Sidur.  [The  name  of  the  sixth  witness  is  not  filled  in.]  The 
month  Tisri ;  the  eponym  of  Dananu." 

DEED    OF    SALE. 
"  The  nail-mark  of  Sarru-ludari,  the  nail-mark  of  Atar-'suri,  (and)  the  nail- 
mark  of  the  woman  Amat-'Suhala,  the  wife  of  Bel-duru,  the ,  the  owner 

of  the  house  (which)  is  given  up.  [Tlien  follow  four  nail-marks.]  The 
whole  house,  with  its  wood-work  and  its  doors,  situated  in  the  city  of  Nin- 
eveh, adjoining  the  houses  of  Mannu-ci-akhi  (and)  Ilu-ciya,  (and)  the  proji- 
erty  of 'Sukaki  he  has  sold,  and  Tsillu-Assur  the  astronomer,  an  Egyptian, 
for  one  maneh  of  silver  (according  to)  the  royal  (standard),  in  the  presence 


340  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

of  SuiTU-ludari,  Atar-'suru,  and  Amat-'suhala,  the  wife  of  its  owner,  has  re- 
ceived it.  The  full  sum  thou  hast  given.  This  house  has  been  taken  pos- 
session of  The  exchange  (and)  the  contract  are  concluded.  (There  is)  no 
withdrawal.  Whosoever  (shall  act)  feloniously  among  any  of  these  men 
who  have  sworn  to  the  contract  and  the  agreement,  which  (is)  before  (our) 
prince  Assur,  ten  manehs  of  silver  shall  he  pay.      The  witnesses  (are): 

Su'san-kukhadnanis,  Murmaza   the ,  Ra'suah  the  pilot,  Nebo-dur-sanin 

the  partitioner  of  the  enemy,  Murmaza  the  pilot,  Sinnis-nacarat,  (and)  Zede- 
kiah.  The  16th  day  of  the  month  Sivan,  the  eponym  of  Zaza  of  the  city 
of  Aspad,  before  Samas-itsbat-nacara,  Latturu,  (aud)  Nebo-sum-yut-sur." 

Another  class  of  these  exhumed  tablets  oj)en  to  us  the 
religious  thought  of  the  ancient  Assyrians,  and  illustrate 
the  antiquity  of  some  doctrines  which  are  held  to-day  by 
the  Christian  Church.  The  Assyrians  were  polytheists, 
and  chief  in  their  Pantheon  was  their  "  great  god,"  As- 
shur,  the  son  of  Shera,  the  progenitor  of  their  race,  and 
who,  in  process  of  time,  they  deified.  Out  of  a  man  they 
made  a  god.  He  is  represented  in  the  bass-reliefs  by  a 
"  man  in  a  winged  circle,  holding  a  bow  and  shooting  an 
arrow."  All  this  was  highly  emblematical.  The  circle 
typified  eternity;  the  expanded  wings  were  expressive 
of  omnipresence ;  the  human  form  symbolized  intelli- 
gence. But  while  Asshur  was  deity  supreme,  yet  he 
was  only  one  of  the  "  lords  many  and  gods  many  "  in  the 
Assyrian  Pantheon.  The  first  triad  of  divinities  con- 
sisted of  Anu,  Bel,  and  Hea,  whose  pompous  titles  are 
inscribed  on  tablet,  temple,  and  monument.  Unwilling 
that  only  half  of  the  human  race  should  be  represented 
in  the  list  of  the  gods,  the  Ninevites  had  a  shrine  to  Bel- 
tis,  whom  they  styled  "The  Mother  of  the  Gods,"  "The 
Queen  of  the  Lands,"  "The  Goddess  of  Battle;"  and 
they  also  erected  altars  to  Ishta,  whom  they  called  "  their 
lady,"  and  whose  descent  into  Hades  is  elaborately  de- 
scribed in  cuneiform  inscriptions.  She  was  their  Venus, 
and  her  symbol  was  the  naked  female  form  so  common 
on  the  exhumed  cylinders.     In  the  list  of  the  gods  of  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  341 

sterner  sex  was  Vul,  an  Eastern  Jupiter,  "  the  lord  of  the 
whirlwind  and  the  tempest,  and  the  wielder  of  the  thun- 
der-bolt," whose  emblem  was  a  triple  bolt  gleaming  with 
lightning.  Their  god  of  war  was  Nin,  represented  by 
the  human -headed  bull,  the  impersonation  of  strength 
and  power.  Equally  honored  with  him  was  Nergal, 
"  The  Strong  Begetter,  "  "  The  Ancestor  of  Kings,"  "  The 
God  of  the  Chase,"  who  was  represented  by  the  human- 
headed  lion.  In  their  appreciation  of  learning,  they  paid 
homage  to  Nebo,  "  The  God  who  possesses  Intelligence," 
"  He  who  Hears  from  afar,"  "  The  Inventor  of  Writing 
and  Literature." 

There  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  belief  of  the  Assyri- 
ans in  the  existence  of  evil  spirits,  of  the  necessity  of  sac- 
rifice for  sin,  of  penitence  for  pardon,  of  a  future  judg- 
ment, and  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul.  Here  is  a 
translation  of  a  penitential  prayer : 

0  my  Lord  !  my  sins  are  many,  my  trespasses  are  great;  and  the  wrath  of 
the  gods  has  plagued  me  with  disease,  and  with  sickness  and  sorrow. 

1  fainted ;  but  no  one  stretched  forth  his  hand ! 
I  groaned ;  but  no  one  drew  nigh  ! 

I  cried  aloud ;  but  no  one  heard ! 

O  Lord !  do  not  abandon  thy  servant ! 

In  the  waters  of  the  great  storm,  seize  his  hand  ! 

The  sins  which  he  has  committed,  turn  thou  to  righteousness.* 

Here  is  a  short  prayer  for  the  soul  of  a  dying  man : 

Like  a  bird  may  it  fly  to  a  lofty  place. 

To  the  holy  hands  of  its  god  may  it  ascend. f 

Similar  to  the  above  is  the  following  address  to  the 
Sun : 

The  man  who  is  departing  in  glory,  may  his  soul  shine  radiant  as  brass, 
To  that  man,  may  the  Sun  give  life ! 
And  Marduk,  eldest  Son  of  Heaven, 
Grant  him  an  abode  of  happiness.^ 

*  Records  of  the  Past,"  vol.  iii.,  p.  13G.  t  Ibid.,  p.  134. 

X  Ibid.,  vol.  iii.,  p.  134. 


342  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

On  another  tablet  was  inscribed  this  prayer  for  the 
king: 

Length  of  days — long  lasting  years  —  a  strong  sword  —  a  long  life  —  ex- 
tended years  of  glory — pre-eminence  among  kings — grant  ye  to  the  King 
my  Lord,  who  has  given  such  gifts  to  his  gods  ! 

The  bounds  vast  and  wide  of  his  Empire  and  of  his  Rule,  may  he  en- 
large and  may  he  complete  !  Holding  over  all  kings  supremacy  and  royal- 
ty and  empire,  may  he  attain  to  gray  hairs  and  old  age ! 

And  after  the  gift  of  these  present  days,  in  the  feasts  of  the  land  of  the 
silver  sky  —  the  refulgent  courts  —  the  abode  of  blessedness :  and  in  the 
Light  of  the  Hapjyy  Fields^  may  he  dwell  a  life  eternal — holy — in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  gods  who  inhabit  Assyria  !* 

On  another  tablet  is  the  account  of  the  death  of  a 
righteous  man,  of  which  the  follo^v^ing  is  a  translation  by 
Mr.  H.  F.  Talbot,  F.E.S. : 

Bind  the  sick  man  to  Heaven,  for  from  the  Earth  he  is  being  torn  away ! 
Of  the  brave  man,  who  was  so  strong,  his  strength  has  departed. 
Of  the  righteous  servant,  the  force  does  not  return. 
In  his  bodily  frame  he  lies  dangerously  ill. 

But  Ishtar,  who  in  her  dwelling  is  grieved  concerning  him,  descends  from 
her  mountain,  unvisited  of  men. 

To  the  door  of  the  sick  man  she  comes. 

The  sick  man  listens  ! 

Who  is  there  ?     Who  comes  ? 

It  is  Ishtar,  daughter  of  the  Moon-god  Sin : 

It  is  the  god  ( ),  son  of  Bel : 

It  is  Marduk,  son  of  the  god  ( ). 

They  approach  the  body  of  the  sick  man. 

The  next  line  is  nearly  destroyed. 

They  bring  a  Ihisihtaf  from  the  heavenly  treasury. 

They  bring  a  sishu  from  their  lofty  store-house ;  into  the  precious  Mii&iUa 
they  pour  bi'ight  liquor. 

That  righteous  man,  may  he  now  rise  on  high  ! 

May  he  shine  like  that  Miisibta! 

May  he  be  bright  as  that  sishu  ! 

Like  pure  silver  may  his  garment  be  shining  white ! 

Like  brass  may  he  be  radiant ! 

To  the  Sun,  greatest  of  tfie  gods,  may  he  ascend ! 

And  may  the  Sun,  greatest  of  the  gods,  receive  his  soul  into  his  holy 
hands  !J 

*  "  Transactions  of  Society  of  Biblical  Archaeology,"  vol.  i.,  part  i.,  p,  107. 
t  Probably  a  drinking-cup.         |  "Records  of  the  Past,"  vol.  iii.,  p.  135, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  343 

But  the  greatest  value  of  these  exhumed  tablets  is 
the  remarkable  ao-reement  between  them  and  the  histor- 
ic  portions  of  the  Bible.  They  synchronize  as  to  dates 
and  proper  names  in  a  most  extraordinary  degree.  They 
are  national  records  of  contemporaneous  history,  written 
from  different  stand-points  and  for  different  ol:)jects,  but 
confirmatory  each  of  the  other.  And  although  our  faith 
in  the  integrity  of  the  sacred  historians  is  quite  inde- 
pendent of  any  such  confirmation,  yet  such  proof  from 
the  "  dead  past,"  disentombed  after  a  burial  of  so  many 
centuries,  will  go  far  to  strengthen  the  faith  of  the  weak 
and  to  dissipate  the  doubts  of  others. 

These  Assyrian  records  contain  the  names  of  countries, 
of  cities,  and  of  kings,  with  which  we  have  been  ffuniliar 
from  childhood.  On  cylinder,  on  tablet,  on  monument 
may  be  read,  "  Babel,  and  Erech,  and  Accad,  and  Cal- 
neh,"  the  cities  built  by  "  Nimrod,"  "  Nineveh,  Resin,  and 
Calah,"  the  cities  founded  by  "Asshur ;"  "  Ur  of  the  Chal- 
dees,"  the  birthplace  of  Abraham  and  the  cradle  of  the 
human  race ;  "  Babylon,"  where  the  Jewish  captives  sigh- 
ed, and  Daniel  foretold  the  coming  future;  "Syria  and 
Damascus,"  the  country  and  the  capital  of  "  Benhadad 
and  Hazael ;"  "Ashdod  "  of  the  Philistines,  and  "  Tyre 
and  Sidon  of  the  Phcenicians  ;"  "  Samaria "  of  "  Omri, 
Ahab,  Jehu,  Pekah,  Hoshea,  and  Resin ;"  and  "  Jerusa- 
lem," the  imperial  city  of  "Azariah,Hezekiah,  and  Manas- 
seh."  In  addition  to  these  familiar  names,  others  equal- 
ly familiar  occur  in  the  Assyrian  inscriptions ;  such  as, 
"  Menahem,  Merodacli-baladan,  Pharaoh,  Sargon,  Sennach- 
erib, Esar-haddon,  Dagon,  Nebo,  Judea,  Lachish,  Gaza, 
Askelon,  Lebanon,  Egypt,  Tigris,  Euphrates,  Haran,  and 
Mesopotamia."  And  more  than  the  names  of  countries, 
cities,  and  kings  are  recorded.  The  events  which  took 
place  are  portrayed  in  })ass-reliefs,  such  as  the  capture  of 


344  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Lacliish,  tlie  coming  of  the  tribute-bearers  from  King 
Hezekiab,  and  the  sad  march  of  the  Hebrew  cajDtives 
from  their  native  land. 

While  Biblical  chronology  is  not  uufrequently  pro- 
nounced defective,  and  therefore  unreliable,  yet  it  is  a 
noteworthy  fact  that  the  Assyrians  had  a  chronology 
quite  identical  thereunto,  and  the  coincidence  of  dates 
through  a  given  period  of  years  is  one  of  the  great  facts 
demonstrated  by  the  Assyrian  archaeologists.  On  this 
important  point,  Mr.  George  Smith  remarks  as  follows : 

"  The  close  agreement  between  the  contemporary  As- 
syrian records  and  the  Biblical  chronology,  from  the 
reign  of  Ahaz  downward,  enables  all  the  dates  to  be 
fixed  with  a  fiiir  amount  of  certainty ;  only  one  of  the 
numbers  in  the  Bible  requiring  rectification,  the  date  of 
the  expedition  of  Sennacherib  agaiilst  Hezekiah  king  of 
Judah  (2  Kings  xviii.,  13),  where  I  should  read  "twenty- 
fourth  year"  instead  of  "  fourteenth  year."  And  I  can 
not  quit  this  subject  without  pointing  out  the  curious 
parallel  in  the  order  of  the  subjects  between  the  first 
thirty-seven  chaptei'S  of  Isaiah,  on  one  side,  and  the  As- 
syrian history  of  Tiglath-pileser,  Shalmaneser,  Sargon, 
and  Sennacherib,  on  the  other.  To  exhibit  this  I  })lace 
them  in  opposite  columns  : 


ISAIAH. 

Ch.  i.  to  vi. — During  the  time  of  Uz- 
ziali  king  of  Judah. 

Ch.  vii.  to  X. — Relate  to  the  expedi- 
tion of  Tiglath-pileser  king  of  As- 
syria against  Syria  and  Israel,  iu 
the  reign  of  Ahaz. 

Ch.  xiii.  andfirsthalf  of  xiv. — Against 
Babylon. 

Ch.  xiv.,  vs.  28  to  33.— In  the  year  of 
death  of  Ahaz,  rod  of  smiter  broken. 

Ch,  XV.  and  xvi. — Against  Moab. 


ASSYRIAN    ANNALS. 

B.C.  738.— Tiglath-pileser  mentions 
Azariah  (Uzziah)  king  of  Judah. 

B.C.  734-733.  — Expedition  of  Tig- 
lath-pileser against  Damascus,  Is- 
rael, and  Philistia,  tribute  of  Yau- 
hazi  (Ahaz)  king  of  Judah. 

B.C.  731.  —  Tiglath-pileser  conquers 
Babylon,  and  annexes  it  to  Assyria. 

B.C.  737.— Death  of  Tiglath-pileser. 

B.C.  735. — Bcign  of  Shalmaneser;  de- 
tails unknown. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


345 


ISAIAH. 

Ch.  xvii. — Against  Damascus,  Aroer, 
and  Israel. 


Cb.  xviii.  and  xix. — Against  Egypt. 

Ch.  XX. — In  the  year  of  capture  of 

Ashdod,  prophecy  against  Egypt. 
Ch.  xxi.,  V.  1  to  10. — Against  Babylon. 
Ch.  xxiii. — Against  Tyre. 


Ch.  xxiv.  to  xxix. — Sennacherib's  in 

vasion. 
Ch.  XXX.  and  xxxi. — Against  relying 

on  Egypt. 
Ch.  xxxii.  to  xxxvii.,  v.  36. 

Ch.  xxxvii.,  V.  37  and  38. — Murder  of 
Sennacherib  and  accession  of  Esar- 
haddon. 


ASSYRIAN   ANNALS. 

B.C.  720. — Expedition  of  Sargon  king 

of  Assyria  against  Qarqar  (Aroer), 

Damascus,  and  Samaria. 
B.C.  715. — Egypt  makes  alliance  with 

Assyria. 
B.C.  713. — Egypt  stirs  up  revolt  in 

Palestine  against  Assyria. 
B.C.  711.  —  Sargon    takes    Ashdod; 

king  of  Egypt  abandons  his  allies. 
B.C.  710. — Sargon  conquers  Babylon. 
B.C.  702-1.  —  Phoenicia  attacked  by 

Sennacherib  king  of  Assyria ;  the 

king  flies  from  Tyre  to  Cyprus. 
B.C.   702-1.  —  Sennacherib    marches 

through  Palestine. 
B.C.  702-1.— Sennacherib  defeats  the 

Egyptian  army  at  Eltekeli. 
B.C.  702-1. — Sennacherib  attacks  Ju- 

dah. 
B.C.  681. — Murder  of  Sennacherib, 

and  accession  of  Esar-haddon. 


Other  and  et|ually  interesting  corrohorative  evidence 
has  been  brought  to  light  by  the  painstaking  and  dis- 
tinguished cuneiform  schoLars.  They  have  shown  that 
the  modes  of  punishment  related  in  the  Book  of  Daniel 
were  not  uncommon  among  the  Babylonians  and  As- 
syrians. It  has  been  discovered  that,  in  the  days  of  As- 
shur-bani-pal,  men  who  hatl  fallen  under  his  displeas- 
ure were  cast  into  a  fiery  furnace,  and  others  into  a  den 
of  lions.  It  is  a  matter  of  record  that  Saul-mugina  re- 
belled against  his  brother,  Asshur-bani-pal,  King  of  As- 
syria ;  and  sought  to  make  himself  king  of  the  province 
of  Babylonia.  But  the  rebellious  brother  and  his  asso- 
ciates were  defeated  after  a  severe  battle,  and,  having 
been  captured,  were  condemned  to  death.  Implacable 
and  revengeful,  the  King  of  Assyria  did  not  spare  his 
own  brother,  but  commanded  that  he  should  be  burned 


346  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

alive,  as  appears  from  the  following  words :  "  Saiil-mu- 
giua  my  brother  rebellious,  who  made  war  with  me,  into 
a  furnace  fiery  burning,  they  threw  him,  and  destroyed 
his  life."  And  of  those  engaged  w^ith  him  in  the  rebell- 
ion it  is  said :  "  The  rest  of  the  people,  among  the  bulls 
and  lions,  as  Sennacherib  my  grandfather  used  to  throw 
men  among  them,  so  I  again,  following  in  his  footsteps, 
threw  those  men  in  the  midst  of  them."'^ 

Nor  w^ere  the  ancient  Babylonians  and  Assyrians  des- 
titute of  traditions  and  records  relative  to  the  Creation, 
to  the  Deluge,  and  to  other  great  events  of  which  Moses 
has  left  us  an  inspired  account.  There  is  an  apparent 
difference  as  to  many  details  in  the  two  statements,  but 
as  to  the  general  and  principal  facts  there  is  a'remarka- 
ble  agreement.  For  the  Chaldean  account  of  the  Crea- 
tion and  of  the  Deluge  we  are  indebted  to  Berosus,  a 
Chaldean  priest,  who  lived  in  the  third  century  before 
the  Christian  ei'a,  and  who  translated  the  records  of 
Babylonia  into  the  Greek  language.  His  writings  indi- 
cate that  he  was  well  acquainted  with  the  history  of  his 
country,  and  competent  to  translate  the  inscriptions.  It 
is  supposed  that  his  history  of  the  Creation  was  derived 
from  an  old  Chaldean  tradition,  which  in  its  purer  form 
was  the  basis  of  the  Mosaic  account.  But  whether 
Moses  wrote  his  history  of  the  Creation  from  a  Divine 
vision  of  the  successive  acts  of  the  Creator,  or  from  a  tra- 
dition which  came  from  Adam  to  Noah,  from  Noah  to 
Abraham,  from  Abraham  to  Moses,  and  inspired  therein, 
are  points  on  wdiich  the  Bi]:>le  is  silent.  While  the 
whole  spirit  and  tone  of  the  Mosaic  account  is  incompar- 
ably superior  to  that  by  Berosus,  yet  the  general  outline 


*  "  Transactions  of  the  Society  of  Biblical  Archaeology,"  vol.  ii.,  joart  3, 
p.  361. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  347 

of  the  narrative  in  each  is  nearly  the  same.  In  both  we 
have  the  earth  at  first  "  without  form  and  void,"  and 
"  darkness  upon  the  face  of  the  deep."  In  both  the 
first  step  taken  toward  Creation  is  the  separation  of  the 
mixed  mass,  and  the  formation  of  the  heavens  and  the 
earth  as  the  consequence  of  such  separation.  In  both 
we  have  light  mentioned  before  the  creation  of  the  sun 
and  moon ;  in  both  we  have  the  existence  of  animals  be- 
fore man ;  and  in  both  we  have  a  Divine  element  in- 
fused into  man  at  his  birth,  and  his  formation  "  from  the 
dust  of  the  ground."*  But  the  purity  and  historic  im- 
portance of  the  Chaldean  cosmogony,  as  given  by  Bero- 
sus,  are  marred  by  mythological  additions  and  extrava- 
gance of  language,  which  contrast  most  severely  with  the 
exalted  simplicity  and  historic  dignity  of  the  Hebrew 
cosmogony  as  recorded  by  Moses. 

There  are  two  accounts  of  the  Deluge.  One  is  Chal- 
dean, and  translated  by  Berosus ;  the  other  is  Assyrian, 
recently  discovered  at  Nineveh  by  Mr.  George  Smith,  of 
the  British  Museum,  and  by  him  translated  from  the 
cuneiform  characters.  The  former  is  briefer,  more  j^er- 
tinent,  less  mythological,  and  includes  a  statement  rela- 
tive to  the  confusion  of  tongues  and  the  dispersion  of 
mankind.  The  latter  is  less  simple  and  exact,  but  is  an 
original  document,  the  work  of  some  Assyrian  annalist. 
Both,  however,  are  concurrent  as  to  the  main  facts  of  the 
story,  and  harmonize  therein,  not  only  one  with  the  oth- 
er, but  with  the  Mosaic  account. 

The  agreement  between  Moses  and  Berosus  is  no  less 
curious  than  interesting.  There  is  the  warning  to  a  sin- 
gle man ;  there  is  the  command  to  construct  a  ship ;  there 
is  the  direction  to  take  into  the  ark  a  chosen  few  of 

*  Rawlinson'S  "Ancient  Monarchies,"  vol.  i.,  p.  144. 


348  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

mankind,  and  also  the  winged  fowl  and  the  four-footed 
beasts ;  there  is  the  coming  of  the  storm  that  submerged 
the  earth ;  there  is  the  seuding-forth  of  birds  which  re- 
turned the  first  and  second  time,  but  not  the  third ;  there 
is  the  egress  of  Noah  from  the  ark,  and  his  building  an 
altar  for  sacrifice  immediately  afterward ;  there  is  the 
resting  of  the  ark  upon  a  mountain  in  Armenia;  and 
the  subsequent  building  of  the  Tower  of  Babel.  As  the 
translation  by  Berosus  is  the  Chaldean  version  of  the 
Flood,  I  give  it  entire : 

"  God  ai^peared  to  Xisuthrus  (Noah)  in  a  dream,  and  warned  him  that  on 
the  fifteenth  day  of  the  month  Daesius,  mankind  would  be  destroyed  by  a 
dekige.  He  bade  him  bury  in  Sippara,  the  City  of  the  Sun,  the  extant  writ- 
ings, first  and  last ;  and  build  a  ship  and  enter  therein  with  his  family  and 
his  close  friends ;  and  furnish  it  with  meat  and  drink ;  and  jilace  on  board 
winged  fowl,  and  four-footed  beasts  of  the  earth  ;  and  when  all  was  ready, 
set  sail.  Xisuthrus  asked  '  Whither  he  was  to  sail  V  and  was  told, '  To  the 
gods,  with  a  jjrayer  that  it  might  fire  well  with  mankind.'  Then  Xisuthrus 
was  not  disobedient  to  the  vision,  but  built  a  shij)  five  furlongs  (3125  feet) 
in  length,  and  two  furlongs  (1250  feet)  in  l^readth ;  and  collected  all  that 
had  been  commanded  him,  and  put  his  wife  and  children  and  close  friends 
on  board.  TJie  flood  came ;  and  as  soon  as  it  ceased,  Xisuthrus  let  loose 
some  birds,  which,  finding  neither  food  nor  a  place  where  they  could  rest, 
came  back  to  the  ark.  After  some  days  he  again  sent  out  the  birds,  which 
again  returned  to  the  ark,  but  with  feet  covered  with  mud.  Sent  out  a  third 
time,  the  birds  returned  no  more,  and  Xisuthrus  knew  that  land  had  re-ap- 
peared ;  so  he  removed  some  of  the  covering  of  the  ark,  and  looked,  and  be- 
hold !  the  vessel  had  grounded  on  a  mountain.  Then  Xisuthrus  went  forth 
with  his  wife  and  his  daughter,  and  his  pilot,  and  fell  down  and  worshiped 
the  earth,  and  built  an  altar,  and  oflfered  sacrifice  to  the  gods ;  after  which 
he  disappeared  from  sight,  together  with  those  who  had  accompanied  him. 
They  who  had  remained  in  the  ark  and  not  gone  forth  witli  Xisuthrus,  now 
left  it  and  searched  for  him,  and  shouted  out  liis  name ;  but  Xisuthrus  was 
not  seen  any  more.  Only  his  voice  answered  them  out  of  the  air,  saying, 
'  Worship  God  ;  for  because  I  worshiped  God,  am  I  gone  to  dwell  with  the 
gods ;  and  they  who  were  with  me  have  shared  the  same  honor !'  And  he 
bade  them  return  to  Babylon,  and  recover  the  writings  buried  at  Sipi^ara, 
and  make  them  known  among  men;  and  he  told  them  that  the  land  in 
which  they  then  were  was  Armenia.  So  they,  when  they  had  heard  all, 
sacrificed  to  the  gods,  and  went  their  way  on  foot  to  Babylon,  and,  having 
reached  it,  recovered  the  buried  writings  from  Sippara,  and  built  many  cit- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


349 


ies  and  temples,  and  restored  Babylon.  Some  portion  of  the  ark  still  con- 
tinues in  Armenia,  in  the  Gordiajan  (Kurdish)  Mountains;  and  persons 
scrape  off  the  bitumen  from  it  to  bring  away,  and  this  they  use  as  a  remedy 
to  avert  misfortunes. 

"  The  earth  was  still  of  one  language,  when  the  primitive  men,  Avho  were 
proud  of  their  strength  and  stature,  and  despised  the  gods  as  their  inferiors, 


THE   DELUGE   TABLETS. 


erected  a  tower  of  vast  height,  in  order  that  they  might  mount  to  heaven. 
And  the  tower  was  now  near  to  heaven  when  the  gods  (or  God)  caused  the 
winds  to  blow  and  overturn  the  structure  upon  the  men,  and  made  them 
speak  with  divers  tongues ;  wherefore  the  city  was  called  Baliylon."* 


*  Rawlinson's  "Ancient  Monarchies,"  vol.  i.,  pp.  145-147. 


350  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Of  greater  importance,  because  we  have  the  original, 
is  the  Assyrian  account  of  the  Deluge.  We  are  indebt- 
ed to  Mr.  George  Smith,  of  the  British  Museum,  not 
only  for  the  discovery  of  the  tablets  on  which  the  ac- 
count is  inscribed  in  the  cuneiform  characters,  but  also 
for  the  translation  of  the  record.  He  was  fortunate 
enough  to  find,  amidst  the  ruins  at  Kuyunjik,  twelve  tab- 
lets, which  purport  to  contain  a  record  of  the  adventures 
of  a  hero  called  Izdubar,  supposed  by  him  to  have  been 
the  Nimrod  of  the  Bible.  Associated  with  Izdubar  was 
a  seer,  whose  name  was  Heabani.  The  two  heroes  were 
no  less  distinguished  as  hunters  than  as  conquerors.  In 
one  of  their  hunting  expeditions,  the  seer  Heabani  was 
killed  by  a  wild  animal ;  and  after  this  misfortune  to  his 
companion,  Izdubar  himself  was  smitten  with  some  terri- 
ble disease,  and  went  to  the  sea-shore  in  search  of  health. 
The  place  whither  he  went  was  a  city  on  the  shores  of 
the  Persian  Gulf,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Euphrates,  and 
called  in  the  inscrij^tious  Surippak — "the  City  of  the 
Ark."  In  his  distress  and  trial,  he  sought  advice  of  Hasi- 
sadra,  the  Xisuthrus  of  the  Chaldean  account,  and  the 
Noah  of  the  Bible.  Of  this  eminent  saint,  who  had  es- 
caped the  Flood,  Izdubar  inquired  how  he  could  become 
immortal,  and,  after  a  homily  on  "  life  and  death,"  Hasisa- 
dra  related  to  Izdubar  the  story  of  the  Flood. 

Of  all  the  tablets  discovered  by  Mr.  Smith,  the  "  Elev- 
enth "  is  the  most  perfect  and  important,  as  it  contains 
the  legend  of  the  Flood,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been 
composed  two  thousand  years  before  the  Christian  era. 
This  tablet,  together  with  its  companion  tablets,  may 
now  be  seen  in  the  Assyrian  Department  of  the  British 
Museum,  where  they  are  pi'eserved  as  memorials  of  the 
past,  and  as  monuments  to  the  enterprise  and  success  of 
modern  discovery. 


CHAMBER   WHERE   THE  TABLETS   WERE   FOUND. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  353 

The  harmony  and  the  difference  between  the  Assyrian 
and  Mosaic  accounts  of  the  Flood  are  worthy  of  most 
careful  attention.  The  two  records  agree  that  the  Flood 
was  a  Divine  j^unishment  for  the  wickedness  of  the  an- 
tediluvian world ;  that  God  commanded  a  holy  man  to 
build  an  ark,  wherein  he  and  his  family  were  saved ; 
that  the  ark  was  coated  within  and  without  with  bitu- 
men ;  that,  by  Divine  direction,  the  fowl  of  the  air  and 
the  beasts  of  the  fields  were  gathered  into  the  ark  of 
safety ;  that  the  rain  descended  in  floods  and  submerged 
the  earth ;  that  three  several  times  a  bird  was  sent  out 
to  report  whether  the  waters  had  subsided  ;  that  the  ark 
rested  on  a  mountain ;  and  that  Noah,  having  been  so 
miraculously  delivered,  built  an  altar,  and  offered  thereon 
a  sacrifice  to  God. 

Thus  as  to  all  the  essential  facts  touching  the  Deluge 
there  is  remarkable  agreement;  there  are,  however, points 
of  difference  which  are  interesting  to  observe.  There  is 
a  marked  difference  as  to  the  size  of  the  ark ;  as  to  the 
construction  of  the  vessel ;  as  to  the  number  of  persons 
saved ;  as  to  the  duration  of  the  Flood ;  as  to  the  mount- 
ain on  which  the  ark  rested ;  as  to  the  birds  sent  forth ; 
and  as  to  the  end  of  Noah.  According  to  the  Assyrian 
account,  the  ark  was  much  larger  than  the  one  described 
by  Moses ;  that  the  vessel  was  a  regular  ship,  manned 
by  sailors  and  navigated  by  a  pilot;  that  Noah  smug- 
gled some  of  his  neighbors  on  board,  who  are  called 
"  sons  of  the  people ;"  that  the  duration  of  the  Deluge 
was  much  shorter  than  stated  in  the  Bible ;  that  a  dove, 
a  swallow,  and  a  raven  were  severally  sent  forth ;  that 
the  ark  rested  on  the  mountains  of  Nizir,  which  are  sup- 
posed to  be  south  of  the  Lesser  Zab,  and  near  Altoon 
Kupri ;  and  that  Noah  did  not  die  as  men  die,  but,  like 
Enoch  and  Elijah,  he  was  translated. 

23 


354  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

The  translation  of  the  Deluge  tablet  is  not  perfect. 
The  value  and  meaning  of  some  of  the  cuneiform  charac- 
ters are  not  yet  known ;  the  omissions  are  indicated  by 
stars.  As  the  inscription  is  in  short  lines,  these  lines  are 
reproduced  in  the  translated  copy.  Mr.  Smith  is  frank 
enough  to  say:  "The  following  is  rather  a  free  than  a 
literal  translation :" 

COLUMN    I. 

Izdubar  after  tins  manner  also  said  to  Hasisadra  afar  ofl": 

"  I  consider  the  matter, 
why  thou  repeatest  not  to  me  from  thee, 
and  thou  repeatest  not  to  me  fi-om  thee, 
thy  ceasing  my  heart  to  make  war 
presses  ?  of  the,  I  come  up  after  thee, 

*  *  *  how  thou  hast  done,  and  in  the  assembly  of  the  gods  alive  thou  art 
placed." 

Hasisadra  after  this  manner  also  said  to  Izdubar : 

"  Be  revealed  to  thee  Izdubar  the  concealed  story, 
and  the  judgment  of  the  gods  be  related  to  thee. 

The  city  Surippak  the  city  where  thou  standest  not  *  *  *  *  placed, 
that  city  is  ancient  *  *  *  *  i\^q  gods  within  it 
*******  their  servant,  the  great  gods 
*******  the  god  Ami, 
*****  the  god  Bel, 
*****  the  god  Ninip, 
and  the  god  ******  \oy(\_  of  Hades ; 
their  will  be  revealed  in  the  midst  *  *  *  *  and 
I  his  will  was  hearing  and  he  spake  to  me  : 

"  Surippakite  son  of  Ubaratutu 

*  *  *  *  make  a  ship  after  this  ***** 

*  *  *  *  I  destroy  ?     the  sinner  and  life  *  *  *  * 

*  *  *  cause  to  go  in  ?  the  seed  of  life  all  of  it  to  the  midst  of  the  ship. 
The  ship  which  thou  shalt  make, 

600  ?  cubits  shall  be  the  measure  of  its  length,  and 
60  ?  cubits  the  amount  of  its  breadth  and  its  height 

*  *  *  into  the  deep  launch  it." 

I  perceived  and  said  to  Hea  my  lord  : 

"  The  ship  making  which  thou  commandest  me,  when  I  shall  have 
made, 
young  and  old  will  deride  me." 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVER.  355 

Hea  opened  his  moutli  and  spake  and  said  to  me  his  servant : 
*****=!-•***  thou  shalt  say  unto  them, 
:!:  *  H:  *  *  *  *  *  *  he  has  turned  from  me  and 
*********  fixed  over  me 
*******  Yik.Q  caves  ***** 
*****  above  and  below 

*  *  *  *  closed  the  ship  *  *  *  * 

*  *  *  *  tiie  flood  which  I  will  send  to  you, 
into  it  enter  and  the  door  of  the  ship  turn. 

Into  the  midst  of  it  thy  grain,  thy  furniture,  and  thy  goods, 
thy  wealth,  thy  women  servants^  thy  female  slaves,  and  thy  young  men, 
the  beasts  of  the  field,  the  animals  of  the  field  all,  I  will  gather  and 
I  will  send  to  thee,  and  they  shall  be  inclosed  in  thy  door." 

Adrahasis  his  mouth  opened  and  spake,  and  said  to  Hea  his  lord : 
"  Any  one  the  ship  will  not  make  *  *  *  * 
on  the  earth  fixed  ******* 

*  *  *  *  I  may  see  also  the  ship  *  *  *  * 

*  *  *  *  on  the  ground  the  ship  ***** 

the  ship  making  which  thou  commandest  me  *  *  * 
which  in  *  *  *  *  * 

COLUMN  n. 

strong  ***** 

on  the  fifth  day  *******  it 

in  its  circuit  14  measures  *  *  *  its  frame. 

14  measures  it  measured  *  *  *  over  it. 

I  placed  its  roof,  it  *  *  *  *  I  inclosed  it. 

I  rode  in  it  on  the  sixth  time ;  I  examined  its  exterior  on  the  seventli 
time ; 

its  interior  I  examined  on  the  eighth  time. 
Planks  against  the  waters  within  it  I  placed. 
I  saw  rents  and  the  wanting  parts  I  added. 
3  measures  of  bitumen  I  poured  over  the  outside. 
3  measures  of  bitumen  I  poured  over  the  inside. 
3  *  *  *  men  carrying  its  baskets,  they  constructed  boxes 
I  placed  in  the  boxes  the  offering  they  sacrificed. 
Two  measures  of  boxes  I  had  distributed  to  the  boatmen. 
'jiq  *  *  *  *  *  were  sacrificed  oxen 
**********  (ij^,gt  and 
**********  wine  in  receptacle  of  goats 
I  collected  like  the  waters  of  a  river,  also 
food  like  the  dust  of  the  earth  also 
I  collected  in  boxes  with  my  hand  I  placed. 


356  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

*****  Shamas  *  *  *  *  material  of  the  ship  completed. 
*********  strong  and 

the  reed  oars  of  the  shijD  I  caused  to  bring  above  and  below. 
********  they  went  in  two-thirds  of  it. 

All  I  possessed  the  strength  of  it,  all  I  possessed  the  strength  of  it  silver 
all  I  possessed  the  strength  of  it  gold, 
all  I  possessed  the  strength  of  it  the  seed  of  life,  the  whole 
I  caused  to  go  uj)  into  the  ship ;  all  my  male  servants  and  my  female 

servants, 
the  beast  of  the  field,  the  animal  of  the  field,  the  sons  of  the  people  all  of 
them,  I  caused  to  go  up. 
A  flood  Shamas  made  and 

he  spake  saying  in  the  night :  "  I  will  cause  it  to  rain  heavily, 
enter  to  the  midst  of  the- ship  and  shut  thy  door." 
A  flood  he  raised  and 
he  spake  saying  in  the  night :  "  I  will  cause  it  to  rain  (or  it  will  rainj 

from  heaven  heavily." 
"  In  the  day  I  celebrated  his  festival 
the  day  of  his  appointment  ?  fear  I  had. 
I  entered  into  the  midst  of  the  ship  and  shut  my  door. 
To  close  the  ship  to  Buzur-sadirabi  the  boatman 
the  palace  I  gave  with  its  goods 

The  raging  of  a  storm  in  the  morning 
arose,  from  the  horizon  of  heaven  extended  and  wide. 
Vul  in  the  midst  of  it  thundered,  and 
Nebo  and  SaVu  went  in  front, 

the  throne-bearers  went  over  mountains  and  plains, 
the  destroyer  Nergal  overturned ; 
Ninip  went  in  front  and  cast  down, 
the  spirits  carried  destruction ; 
in  their  glory  they  swept  the  earth ; 
of  Vul  the  flood  reached  to  heaven. 
The  bright  earth  to  a  waste  was  turned, 

COLUMN    III. 

the  surface  of  the  earth  like  =1=  *  *  h--  *  jt  swept, 

it  destroyed  all  life  from  the  face  of  the  earth  *  *  * 

the  strong  deluge  over  the  people,  reached  to  heaven. 

Brother  saw  not  his  brother,  it  did  not  spare  the  people.     In  heaven 

the  gods  feared  the  tempest  and 

sought  refuge ;  they  ascended  to  the  heaven  of  Ann. 

The  gods  like  dogs  fixed  in  droves  prostrate. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  357 

Spake  Ishtar  like  a  child, 

uttered  the  great  goddess  her  speech : 
"  All  to  corruption  are  turned  and 

then  I  in  the  presence  of  the  gods  prophesied  evil. 

As  I  prophesied  in  the  presence  of  the  gods  evil 

to  evil  were  devoted  all  my  people  and  I  prophesied 

thus :  "  I  have  begotten  my  people  and 

like  the  young  of  the  fishes  they  fill  the  sea." 

The  gods  concerning  the  spirits  were  weeping  with  her, 

the  gods  in  seats  seated  in  lamentation, 

covered  were  their  lips  for  the  coming  evil. 

Six  days  and  nights 

passed,  the  wind,  deluge,  and  storm  overwhelmed. 

On  the  seventh  day  in  its  course  was  calmed  the  storm,  and  all  the  del- 
uge 

which  had  destroyed  like  an  earthquake, 

quieted.     The  sea  he  caused  to  dry,  and  the  wind  and  deluge  ended. 

I  perceived  the  sea  making  a  tossing ; 

and  the  whole  of  mankind  turned  to  corruption, 

like  reeds  the  corpses  floated. 

I  opened  the  window,  and  the  light  broke  over  my  face, 

it  passed.     I  sat  down  and  wept, 

over  my  face  flowed  my  tears. 

I  perceived  the  shore  at  the  boundary  of  the  sea, 

for  twelve  measures  the  land  rose. 

To  the  country  of  Nizir  went  the  ship ; 

the  mountain  of  Nizir  stopped  the  ship,  and  to  pass  over  it  it  was  not 
able. 

The  first  day,  and  the  second  day,  the  mountain  of  Nizir  the  same. 

The  third  day,  and  the  fourth  day,  the  mountain  of  Nizir  the  same. 

The  fifth,  and  sixth,  the  mountain  of  Nizir  the  same. 

On  the  seventh  day  in  the  course  of  it 

I  sent  forth  a  dove  and  it  left.     The  dove  went  and  turned  and 
a  resting-place  it  did  not  find,  and  it  returned. 

I  sent  forth  a  swallow  and  it  left.     The  swallow  went  and  turned,  and 
a  resting-place  it  did  not  find  ;  and  it  returned. 
I  sent  forth  a  raven  and  it  left. 

The  raven  went,  and  the  corpses  on  the  water  it  saw,  and 
it  did  eat,  it  swam,  and  wandered  away  and  did  not  return. 
I  sent  the  animals  forth  to  the  four  winds,  I  poured  out  a  libation, 
I  built  an  altar  on  the  peak  of  the  mountain, 
by  seven  herbs  I  cut, 
at  the  bottom  of  them  I  placed  reeds,  pines,  and  simgar. 


358  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

The  gods  collected  at  its  burning, the  gods  collected  at  its  good  burning; 

the  gods  like  flies  over  the  sacrifice  gathered. 

From  of  old  also  the  great  god  in  his  course 

The  great  brightness  of  Anu  had  created. 

When  the  glory 

Of  those  gods  the  charm  round  my  neck  would  not  repel ;  ♦ 

COLUMN    IV. 

in  those  days  I  prayed  for  I  could  never  repel  them. 

May  the  gods  come  to  my  altar, 

may  Bel  not  come  to  my  altar, 

for  he  did  not  consider  and  had  made  a  deHige, 

and  my  people  he  had  consigned  to  the  deep. 

From  of  old  also  Bel  in  his  course 

saw  the  ship,  and  went  Bel  with  anger  tilled  to  the  gods  and  spirits : 

"  Let  not  any  one  come  out  alive,  let  not  a  man  be  saved  from  the  deep." 

Ninip  his  mouth  opened,  and  spake  and  said  to  the  warrior  Bel : 

"Who  then  will  be  saved ?"     Hea  the  words  understood, 

and  Hea  knew  all  things. 

Hea  his  mouth  ojiened  and  spake,  and  said  to  the  warrior  Bel : 

"  Thou  prince  of  the  gods  -warrior, 

when  thou  art  angry  a  deluge  thou  makest ; 

the  doer  of  sin  did  his  sin,  the  doer  of  evil  did  his  evil. 

May  the  exalted  not  be  broken,  may  the  captive  not  be  delivered. 

Instead  of  thee  making  a  deluge,  may  lions  increase  and  men  be  reduced ; 

instead  of  thee  making  a  deluge,  may  leopards  increase  and  men  be  re- 
duced ; 

instead  of  thee  making  a  deluge,  may  a  famine  happen  and  the  country 
be  destroyed ; 

instead  of  thee  making  a  deluge,  may  pestilence  increase  and  men  be  de- 
stroyed. 

I  did  not  peer  into  the  judgment  of  the  gods. 

Adrahasis  a  dream  they  sent,  and  the  judgment  of  the  gods  he  heard. 

When  his  judgment  was  accomplished,  Bel  went  up  to  the  midst  of  the 
ship. 

He  took  my  hand  and  raised  me  up, 

he  caused  to  raise  and  to  bring  my  wife  to  my  side ; 

he  purified  the  country,  he  established  in  a  covenant  and  took  the  people, 

in  the  presence  of  Hasisadra  and  the  people. 

When  Hasisadra,  and  his  wife  and  the  people,  to  be  like  the  gods  were 
carried  away ; 

then  dwelt  Hasisadra  in  a  remote  place  at  the  mouth  of  the  rivers. 

They  took  me  and  in  a  remote  place  at  the  mouth  of  the  rivers  they 
seated  me. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  359 

When  to  thee  whom  the  gods  have  chosen  also, 

for  the  health  which  thou  seekest  and  askest; 

this  do  six  days  and  seven  nights, 

like  in  a  seat  also  in  bonds  bind  him, 

the  way  like  a  storm  shall  be  laid  w^on  him." 

Hasisadra  after  this  manner  also  said  to  his  wife, 

"  I  announce  that  the  chief  who  grasps  at  health 

the  way  like  a  storm  shall  be  laid  upon  him." 

His  wife  after  this  manner  also  said  to  Hasisadra  afar  off: 

"  Purify  him,  and  let  the  man  be  sent  away ; 

the  road  that  he  came  may  he  return  in  peace, 

the  great  gate  open  and  may  he  return  to  his  country." 

Hasisadra  after  this  manner  also  said  to  his  wife : 

"  The  cry  of  a  man  alarms  thee, 

this  do  his  Tcuriimmat  (scarlet  cloth)  place  on  his  head." 

And  the  day  when  he  ascended  the  side  of  the  ship, 

she  did,  his  kurummat  (scarlet  cloth)  she  placed  on  his  head. 

And  the  day  when  he  ascended  the  side  of  the  ship."* 


But  other  and  more  important  results  may  yet  be  ex- 
pected from  the  labors  of  Assyrian  archaeologists.  Much 
has  been  accomplished,  but  much  more  remains  to  be 
done.  Distinguished  success  has  attended  those  who 
have  made  the  cuneiform  language  a  specialty  in  philol- 
ogy. A  grammar  and  a  dictionary  have  been  elimi- 
nated, and  classes  have  been  formed  in  London  for  the 
study  of  the  language  and  the  interpretation  of  the  cune- 
iform inscriptions.  And  sooner  or  later,  the  great  uni- 
versities of  Europe  will  organize  a  department  of  As- 
syrian archaeology,  and  the  primitive  language  of  Bab- 
ylon and  Assyria  will  be  a  recognized  branch  of  philo- 
logical study. 

The  success  which  has  thus  far  attended  the  efforts  of 
the  cuneiform  scholars  is  an  inspiration  to  future  en- 
deavor. Their  achievements  are  among:  the  marvels  of 
this  marvelous  age.     They  have  given  to  us  a  new  histo- 


*  George  Smitli's  "Assyrian  Discoveries,"  pp.  184-194. 


360  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

ry.  They  have  made  clear  what  for  ages  was  obscure. 
They  have  translated  the  records  of  a  civilization  to  be 
ranked  with  that  of  Greece  and  Rome,  and  older  than 
either  by  many  centuries.  None,  more  than  they  them- 
selves, are  conscious  of  the  imperfections  of  their  transla- 
tions of  the  Assyrian  records.  There  are  signs  of  whose 
value  tliey  are  ignorant.  There  are  idioms  whose  mean- 
ing they  have  not  determined.  There  are  chronological 
and  historical  differences  with  well -authenticated  facts 
that  they  have  not  been  able  to  reconcile.  But  all  things 
are  possible  to  him  who  works.  That  which  these  emi 
nent  scholars  have  given  us  is  but  the  beginning  of  the 
end.  There  are  in  the  British  Museum  thousands  of 
tablets  not  translated,  whose  import  may  yet  astonish 
the  world.  There  are  mounds  at  Babylon  and  Nineveh 
unexplored,  whose  buried  treasures  of  art  and  learning 
invite  the  discoverer.  What  seer  shall  foretell  the  de- 
velopments of  future  exploration  ?  Up  to  the  present 
moment,  Babylon  has  not  been  extensively  and  thor- 
oughly explored.  Her  vast  mounds  await  the  coming 
of  those  who  will  bring  to  light  her  too  long  entombed 
monuments.  It  may  be  that  the  library  of  Nebuchad- 
nezzar will  be  recovered,  together  with  the  older  annals 
of  the  Bal)ylonians.  What  light  such  records  might 
throw  upon  the  whole  programme  of  the  ancient  civ- 
ilization of  mankind  !  and,  perhaps,  solve  the  problem 
whether  the  civilization  of  the  East  originated  on  the 
plains  of  Assyria  or  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile.  And  who 
can  tell  how  much  more  remote  such  records  would  car- 
ry us  into  the  past?  The  day  may  not  be  far  distant 
when  Nimrod's  Biography,  Noah's  History  of  the  Flood, 
and  Adam's  Autobiography,  shall  become  standard  works 
among  the  civilized  nations  of  the  earth. 

Hitherto,  the  work  of  exploration  has  been  advanced 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  361 

chiefly  by  France  and  England ;  but  the  time  has  come 
when  the  United  States  should  contribute  to  a  result  of 
such  general  interest.  Ten  thousand  dollars  judiciously 
expended  in  the  work  of  excavation  might  lead  to  the 
most  gratifying  results.  It  would  be  a  national  honor 
were  an  accredited  agent  of  our  country  to  discover  a 
new  palace  with  its  buried  treasures.  The  Sublime  Porte 
would  doubtless  accord  to  the  United  States  the  same 
courtesy  extended  to  England  and  France,  the  right  of 
possession  of  whatever  antiquities  might  be  discovered 
by  an  authorized  representative.  It  is  the  opinion  of 
nearly  all  the  distinguished  Assyrian  explorers  that  new 
and  valuable  discoveries  are  yet  to  be  made,  and  that 
any  properly  directed  effort  of  exploration  would  be 
attended  with  success.  The  mounds  hitherto  explored 
have  been  only  partially  excavated,  and  the  work  pre- 
viously done  is  preparatory  for  future  effort.  But  wheth- 
er new  excavations  shall  be  attempted  or  not,  the  sum 
of  ten  thousand  dollars  would  secure  some  rare  speci- 
mens of  Assyrian  sculpture,  such  as  a  pair  of  the  human- 
headed  lions,  a  royal  statue  in  high-relief,  scenes  of  war, 
of  the  chase,  of  domestic  life,  of  mechanic  art,  of  devotion, 
delineated  in  bass-relief  on  slabs  of  alabaster,  and  a  li- 
brary of  histories,  poems,  and  learned  works  inscribed 
on  terra-cotta  tablets,  on  clay  cylinders,  on  marble  slabs. 
And  the  facilities  for  transportation  are  as  great  as  the 
antiquities  are  numerous.  Even  the  heaviest  specimens 
can  be  floated  on  rafts  down  the  Tigris  to  Busrah  on  the 
Shaat-el-Arab,  where  a  government  vessel  might  receive 
them  and  transport  them  to  the  United  States,  to  be 
added  to  the  splendid  collection  from  Cyprus,  of  which 
New  York  is  justly  proud. 


362  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Christianity  in  the  East. — Origin  of  the  Nestorians. — Their  Great  Learning. 
— Their  Vast  Missions.— Letter  from  Mr.  Hormuzd  Rassam  on  the  Eastern 
Churches. — Syrian  Jacobites. — Syrian  Catholics. — Chaldean  Nestorians. — 
Their  Chaldeau  Origin.  —  Opinions  of  Ancient  and  Modern  Authors. — 
Language  of  the  Chaldeans. — History  and  Creed  of  the  Nestorians.— 
Their  Present  and  Their  Future. 

From  the  Garden  of  Eden  to  the  snows  of  Ararat,  and 
from  the  confines  of  Persia  to  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, Christianity  is  accepted  as  a  Divine  verity.  The 
apostles  were  the  first  to  preach  Christ  to  the  teeming 
millions  of  that  ancient  region,  the  cradle  of  humanity. 
The  churches  they  planted  took  deep  root,  and  bore 
abundant  fruit.  For  three  hundred  years  they  contin- 
ued to  flourish  in  the  unity  of  the  Spirit ;  but,  in  the 
lapse  of  time,  the  union  was  severed,  and  the  separated 
parts  became  sectarian  centres  of  bitter  contention.  The 
rival  sects  strove  for  the  mastery,  and  displayed  a  zeal 
that  knew  no  bounds.  Neither  the  chauij;e  of  o;overn- 
ments,  nor  the  power  of  persecution,  nor  the  lapse  of  cen- 
turies, has  been  sufiacieut  to  extinguish  that  zeal,  or  to- 
tally destroy  those  who  were  inspired  therewith.  A 
remnant  remains,  still  tenacious  of  ecclesiastical  life. 

The  Armenians  are  by  far  the  most  powerful,  and  the 
most  widely  difi^used,  in  the  group  of  purely  Oriental 
churches.  Their  home  is  the  mountain  tract  that  encir- 
cles Ararat,  and  in  wealth,  in  steadiness,  in  quietness, 
they  are  the  "  Quakers "  of  the  East.  Proud  of  their 
founder,  they  trace  their  origin  to  Gregory  the  Illumi- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  363 

nator,  whose  dead  hand  is  still  used  for  continuing  the 
succession  of  their  patriarchs. 

The  "  Church  of  Syria  "  is  the  oldest  of  all  the  Gentile 
churches,  and  ancient  Antioch  is  revered  as  the  place  of 
its  birth.  Its  sacred  annals  are  adorned  with  the  im- 
mortal names  of  Ignatius,  of  Chrysostom,  and  John  of 
Damascus.  Its  two  divided  parts  are  the  Jacobites, 
who  are  Monophysites,  and  the  Maronites,  who  are  Mon- 
othelitic.  The  chief  city  of  the  former  is  Diarbekir; 
the  chief  sanctuary  of  the  latter  is  the  convent  of  Kano- 
bin,  shaded  by  the  cedars  of  Lebanon. 

The  "  Chaldean  Christians,"  called  by  their  opponents 
"  Nestorians,"  live  in  the  secluded  fastnesses  of  Kurdis- 
tan, and  are  the  remnant  of  the  ancient  church  of  Cen- 
tral Asia.  They  trace  their  descent  to  St.  Thomas  the 
Apostle.  They  accept  as  binding,  the  decisions  of  the 
Councils  of  Nicsea  and  Constantinople,  but  reject  those 
of  Ephesus,  which  condemned  Nestorius,  from  whom 
they  are  named  by  those  who  differ  from  them.*  In  the 
day  of  their  power,  Edessa  was  their  sacred  city,  and  the 
city  of  Nisibis  was  their  seat  of  learning  and  the  centre 
of  their  grand  missionary  operations.  From  their  fa- 
mous schools  went  forth  giants  in  literature,  whose  ac- 
quirements excite  our  admiration.  Their  varied  pro- 
ductions were  on  a  magnificent  scale,  and  the  authors 
thereof  continued  to  flourish  till  crushed  by  the  despot- 
ism of  the  Moslems.  Not  less  than  one  hundred  and 
fifty  authors  contributed  to  advance  literature  in  the 
East.  They  were  commentators  on  the  whole  or  parts 
of  the  Bible ;  they  were  sacred  and  profane  historians ; 
they  were  lexicographers,  grammarians,  logicians,  meta- 
physicians, geographers,  astronomers,  writers  on  natural 

*  Stanley's  "  Eastern  Church,"  pp.  91-94. 


364  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

philosophy ;  and  more  than  a  hundred  were  poets.  Some 
of  them  passed  beyond  the  limits  of  their  own  language, 
and  carried  their  investigations  into  the  wide  field  of 
Greek  literature.  They  composed  Greco-Syriac  lexicons, 
and  enriched  the  Syriac  language  by  the  introduction  of 
a  great  variety  of  words  from  the  Greek  classics.  Sev- 
eral of  the  Nestorian  bishops  wrote  learned  treatises  in 
Persian,  and  one  of  the  number  translated  the  works  of 
Aristotle  into  that  language  for  the  Emperor  Chosroes. 
Some  of  these  monuments  of  Nestorian  learning  remain 
to  this  day,  and  can  be  seen  in  the  libraries  at  Mosul, 
Mardeen,  and  Bagdad.  But  not  a  few  have  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  Latin  missionaries,  who  used  every  possi- 
ble artifice  to  exterminate  the  works  of  the  Nestorian  au- 
thors. This  vandalism  is  to  be  deplored,  as  an  irrepara- 
ble loss  to  archaeology.  What  light  such  works  might 
have  thrown  on  the  downfall  of  the  ancient  Assyrian 
dynasties,  and  on  the  fortunes  of  the  successive  king- 
doms which  rose  upon  their  ruins,  and  respecting  which 
our  information  is  so  scanty !  Such  information  might 
have  solved  those  difficulties  that  still  baffle  the  research 
of  the  most  learned  men  in  Europe,  and  might  have  been 
the  key  to  the  remarkable  relics  of  antiquity  which  are 
now  being  exhumed  from  the  mounds  of  Nineveh  and 
Babylon.''* 

Impelled  by  a  Divine  zeal,  the  Nestorian  mission- 
aries went  forth  from  Edessa  and  Nisibis  to  convert  the 
world  to  Christ.  In  the  sixth  century  they  successful- 
ly preached  Christianity  to  the  Bactrians,  the  Huns,  the 
Persians,  the  Indians,  the  Persarmenians,  the  Medes,  and 
the  Elamites.  The  barbaric  churches,  from  the  Persian 
Gulf  to  the  Caspian  Sea,  were  almost  infinite;  and  their 

*  Badger's  "  Nestorians,"  vol.  ii.,  pp.  8-15. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  365 

faith  was  conspicuous  in  the  number  and  sanctity  of. 
their  monks  and  martyrs.  The  pepper-coast  of  Malabar, 
and  the  isles  of  the  ocean,  Socotora  and  Ceylon,  were 
peopled  with  an  increasing  multitude  of  Christians ;  and 
the  bishops  and  clergy  of  those  sequestered  regions  de- 
rived their  ordination  from  the  Catholic  of  Babylon. 
They  pursued  without  fear  the  footsteps  of  the  roving 
Tartar,  and  insinuated  themselves  into  the  camps  of  the 
valleys  of  Imaus  and  the  banks  of  the  Selinga.  They 
exposed  a  metaphysical  creed  to  those  illiterate  shep- 
herds; to  those  sanguinary  warriors  they  recommended 
humanity  and  repose.  In  their  progress  by  sea  and 
land,  they  entered  China  by  the  port  of  Canton  and  the 
Northern  residence  of  Sigan  ;  and  under  the  reign  of  the 
caliphs,  the  Nestorian  Church  was  diffused  from  China 
to  Jerusalem.  Twenty-five  archbishops  composed  their 
hierarchy,  and  the  number  of  communicants  exceeded 
that  of  the  Greek  and  Latin  communions.''' 

It  was  my  good  fortune  while  at  Mosul  to  be  the 
guest  of  Mr.  Hormuzd  Rassam,  who  is  the  most  compe- 
tent living  authority  as  to  the  creed  and  condition  of  the 
native  population  of  the  valley  of  the  Euphrates.  Him- 
self a  native  of  Mosul,  his  parents  were  Chaldean  Chris- 
tians, and  in  their  faith  he  was  baptized.  Educated  in 
Chaldaic  and  Arabic  in  the  place  of  his  birth,  he  received 
his  English  education  at  the  University  of  Oxford.  His 
intellicrence  and  character  attracted  the  attention  of  Mr. 
Layard,  who  employed  Mr.  Rassam  to  assist  him  in  ex- 
cavating and  exploring  the  ruins  of  Nineveh,  and  who 
frequently  and  honorably  mentioned  him  in  his  "  Nin- 
eveh and  its  Remains."  At  a  later  period,  Mr.  Rassam 
was  employed  by  the  British  Museum  to  continue  the 

*  Gibbon,  vol.  iv.,  pp.  544-546. 


366 


THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 


work  of  exploration,  and  he  had  the  honor  to  discover 
the  long-buried  palace  of  Asshiir-bani-pal,  wherein  were 
found  imi^ortant  tablets  inscribed  with  the  cuneiform 
characters.  From  the  labors  and  renown  of  the  explorer, 
he  was  called  to  the  responsible  position  of  "  First  As- 
sistant Political  Resident  at  Aden,"  under  the  British 
Government.  While  in  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of 
this  office,  he  was  chosen  to  bear  the  queen's  letter  to 


HORMUZD  RASSAM. 


Theodore,  King  of  Abyssinia,  a  narrative  of  which  "  mis- 
sion "  he  subsequently  published  in  two  volumes.  Such 
was  the  faithful  manner  in  which  he  performed  the  dif- 
ficult work  of  that  "  mission,"  as  to  merit  the  commenda- 
tion of  the  queen,  and  to  entitle  him  to  a  liberal  pension 
for  life.  He  is  now  a  resident  of  Twickenham,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Thames,  where,  with  his  accomplished  En- 
glish wife,  he  is  engaged  in  literary  pursuits. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  367 

While  at  Mosul,  and  subsequently  at  Twickenbam,  I 
bad  long  and  interesting  conversations  witb  Mr.  Kassam 
on  tbe  present  condition  of  tbe  Cbristian  sects  in  tbe 
valley  of  tbe  Euphrates,  and  at  my  request  be  prepared 
tbe  subjoined  article  on  this  very  important  subject: 

"Twickenham,  January,  1875. 

"  My  dear  Dr.  Newman, — Agreeably  to  your  request, 
I  have  tbe  honor  to  communicate  some  information  as  to 
tbe  Cbristian  communities  now  existing  in  and  around 
Mosul,  and  those  scattered  through  Mesopotamia,  As- 
syria, and  Kurdistan.  I  shall  dwell  at  some  length  on 
tbe  terms  Chaldean  and  A ss]/rian,  because  I  believe  that 
prior  to  tbe  great  schism  which  took  place  in  the  fifth 
century  the  ancestors  of  the  present  Christians  belonged 
to  tbe  same  stock,  and  held  the  same  belief;  and  that 
when  Nestorius  and  Eutychus  were  excommunicated,  all 
those  who  adhered  to  their  doctrine  were  nicknamed  after 
them  by  their  opj^onents. 

"With  tbe  exception  of  a  few  Armenian  families  at 
Bagdad  and  Diarbekir,  and  some  who  are  attached  to 
tbe  Greek  Church  at  tbe  latter  place,  the  whole  of  tbe 
Christian  community  now  inhabiting  the  above-named 
countries,  is  divided  into  four  distinct  sects :  Chaldean 
Nestorians,  Chaldean  Catholics,  Syrian  Jacobites,  and 
Syrian  Catholics.  The  Nestorian  community,  which  is 
estimated  at  fifty  thousand  fiimilies,  occupies  tbe  south- 
ern portion  of  Kurdistan  and  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Oro- 
mia,  in  North-western  Persia.  The  Chaldean  Catholics 
number  about  thirty  thousand  families,  and  reside  at  Mo- 
sul, Bagdad,  Diarbekir,  and  in  Southern  Kurdistan,  bor- 
dering on  ancient  Assyria  and  Northern  Persia.  Tbe 
Syrian  Jacobites  and  tbe  Syrian  Catholics  are  less  than 
thirty  thousand  strong,  and  have  their  chief  centres  at 


368  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Bagdad,  Mosul,  Mardeeii,  Diarbeldr,  and  in  the  Toor 
Mountains  on  the  extreme  south-western  limits  of  Kur- 
distan. 

"  The  patriarch  of  the  Chaldean  Nestorians  is  styled 
'  Patriarch  of  the  East,'  and  resides  at  Kochannis,  in  the 
country  of  the  Kurds.  The  ecclesiastical  head  of  the 
Chaldean  Catholics  is  called  '  Patriarch  of  Babylon,'  and 
has  his  residence  at  Mosul.  The  chief  of  the  Syrian  Jac- 
obites assumes  the  title  of  '  Patriarch  of  the  See  of  An- 
tioch,'  and  adds  thereto  '  Ignatius,'  the  name  of  his  pred- 
ecessors. His  home  is  in  the  monastery  near  Mardeen, 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  all  Mesopotamia. 
And  Mardeen  is  also  the  official  residence  of  the  chief 
bishoj)  of  the  Papal  Syrians,  who  also  claims  the  title  of 
'  Patriarch  of  the  See  of  Antioch.' 

"  Before  I  speak  at  length  of  the  Chaldean  Nestorians, 
I  desire  to  allude  briefly  to  the  other  Christian  sects,  al- 
ready mentioned  in  connection  with  them.  The  Syrian 
Jacobites  are  Monophysites,  who  follow  the  teachings  of 
Eutychus,  who  flourished  in  the  fifth  century,  and  who 
taus^ht  that  the  human  and  divine  natures  in  our  Lord 
were  so  blended  as  to  constitute  one  nature.  The  Mo- 
nophysites are  divided  into  four  branches — the  Jacobites, 
the  Armenians,  the  Copts,  and  the  Abyssinians.  While 
the  last  three  have  retained  the  name  of  their  national- 
ity, the  Jacobites  are  called  after  Jacob  Baradeus,  the 
zealous  defender  of  their  faith  in  the  sixth  century,  when 
it  was  nearly  extinct.  Of  the  belief  of  the  Monophysites 
and  of  the  labors  of  Baradeus,  the  historian  Mosheim 
gives  the  following  account :  '  Many,  while  careful  to 
shun  the  fault  of  Nestorius,  ran  into  the  opposite  ex- 
treme. The  most  noted  of  those  was  Eutychus,  abbot 
of  a  certain  convent  of  monks  at  Constantinople ;  from 
whom  originated  another  sect,  directly  opposite  to  that 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  369 

of  Nestorius,  but  equally  troublesome  and  miscliievous 
to  the  interests  of  Christianity;  and  which,  like  that, 
spread  with  great  rapidity  throughout  the  East,  and  ac- 
quired such  strength  in  its  progress,  that  it  gave  im- 
mense trouble  both  to  the  Nestorians  and  to  the  Greeks, 
and  became  a  great  and  powerful  community.  In  the 
year  448,  Eutychus,  now  far  advanced  in  years,  in  order 
more  effectually  to  put  down  Nestorius,  to  whom  he  was 
a  violent  foe,  explained  the  doctrine  concerning  the  per- 
son of  Christ,  in  the  phraseology  of  the  Egyptians  ;  and 
maintained  that  there  was  only  one  nature  in  Christ, 
namely,  that  of  the  Lord,  who  became  incarnate.  Hence 
he  was  supposed  to  deny  the  humanity  of  Jesus  Christ ; 
and  was  accused  by  Eusebius  of  Doryleum,  before  a  coun- 
cil called  by  Flavianus,  perhaps  in  this  very  year  at  Con- 
stantinople. And  as  Eutychus  refused  to  give  up  his 
opinions  at  the  bidding  of  this  council,  he  was  cast  out 
of  the  Church,  and  deprived  of  his  office ;  and  he,  not  ac- 
(j[uiescing  in  this  decree,  appealed  to  a  general  council  of 
the  whole  Church.'* 

"  In  book  ii.,  part  ii.,  Mosheim  further  remarks : 
'  When  the  Monophysites  were  nearly  in  despair,  and 
very  few  of  their  bishoj^s  remained,  some  of  them  being 
<lead,  and  others  in  captivity,  an  obscure  man.  Jacobus, 
surnamed  Baradeus,  or  Zanzalus,  to  distinguish  him  from 
others  of  the  name,  restored  their  fallen  state.  This  in- 
digent monk,  a  most  indefatigable  and  persevering  man, 
being  ordained  bishop  by  a  few  bishops  who  were  con- 
fined in  prison,  traveled  over  all  the  East,  on  foot,  consti- 
tuted a  vast  number  of  bishops  and  presbyters,  revived 
everywhere  the  depressed  spirits  of  the  Monophysites, 
and  was  so  efficient  by  his  eloquence  and  his  astonish- 

*  Mosheim,  book  ii.,  section  xiii. 

24 


370  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

ing  diligence,  that  when  he  died,  in  the  year  578,  at 
Edessa,  where  he  had  been  bishop,  he  left  his  sect  in  a 
very  flourishing  state  in  Syria,  in  Mesopotamia,  in  Ar- 
menia, in  Eo:ypt,  Nubia,  and  Abyssinia,  and  in  other 
countries.  He  extinguished  nearly  all  the  dissensions 
among  the  Monophysites ;  and  as  their  churches  were  so 
widely  dispersed  in  the  East,  that  the  Bishop  of  Antioch 
could  not  well  govern  them  all,  he  associated  with  him 
a  maphrian,  or  private  of  the  East,  whose  residence  was 
at  Tagritum,  on  the  borders  of  Armenia.  His  efforts 
were  not  a  little  aided  in  Egypt  and  the  neighboring  re- 
gions by  Theodosius  of  Alexandria.  From  this  man,  as 
the  second  father  of  the  sect,  all  the  Monophysites  of  the 
East  are  called  Jacobites.' 

"  It  is  a  fact  worthy  of  note,  that  the  present  Jaco- 
bites still  maintain  the  old  formula,  '  Who  was  cruci- 
fied for  us,'  wdiich  was  introduced  in  the  fifth  century 
by  Peter,  surnamed '  Fuller,  Bishop  of  Antioch  ;'  and  this 
is  used  in  addition  to  the  celebrated  hymn,  '  O  Holy 
God,  O  Holy  Almighty,  O  Holy  Eternal.' 

"  It  is  just  one  hundred  years  ago  since  the  Latin 
Church  succeeded  in  establishing  their  Romish  princi- 
ples among  the  descendants  of  the  ancient' Chaldeans, 
My  family,  both  on  the  side  of  my  father  and  my 
mother,  were  instrumental  in  sowing  the  seed  of  Popery 
at  Mosul  and  the  adjacent  country.  Their  social  posi- 
tion, and  their  ofiicial  relations  with  the  Governor  of  Mo- 
sul gave  them  a  great  influence  with  the  Chaldeans. 

"The  Pomanists  were  very  careful  not  to  introduce 
their  dogmas  in  full  force  upon  them.  At  first  they  got 
them  to  acknowledge  the  Pope  as  the  head  of  their 
Church ;  substituted  the  wafer  for  the  leaven  bread  ; 
abolished  the  pai'taking  of  both  kinds  by  the  people ; 
introduced  purgatory  and  auricular  confession,  with  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  371 

addition  of  the  Ave  Maria  to  the  daily  private  prayer ; 
and  so,  little  by  little,  brought  in  different  superstitious 
practices,  such  as  indulgences,  placing  pictures  and  im- 
ages in  their  churches,  which  the  Nestorians  abhor  above 
all  other  unchristian  innovations.  For  a  long  time  the 
Latin  Church  has  been  trying  to  introduce  celibacy 
among  the  clergy  of  the  Papal  Chaldeans,  and  to  do 
away  with  some  of  their  rites  which  are  obnoxious  to 
the  Papal  taste.  The  present  Pope  has  got  so  far  as  to 
prohibit  the  Patriarch  from  consecrating  any  more  bish- 
ops without  the  special  approval  and  sanction  of  the 
Vatican.  But  the  Patriarch  has  ignored  the  dictates  of 
the  Latin  Church,  and  consecrated  tliree  bishops  contrary 
to  its  orders. 

"  The  Chaldean  community  to  which  I  belonged  is 
rightly  esteemed  the  most  ancient  portion  of  the  popula- 
tion, both  as  to  nationality  and  Christianity.  Our  an- 
cestors were  the  Chaldeans,  or  Assyrians,  mentioned  in 
the  Bible;  and  our  forefathers  professed  the  Christian 
religion  as  early  as  the  first  century.  I  need  scarcely 
tell  you  that  the  origin  of  the  so-called  Chaldeans  is 
disputed  by  those  who  profess  to  know  a  good  deal 
about  the  history  of  the  Old  World,  but  who  can  not 
show  from  what  stock  the  present  Chaldeans  really  came. 
They  can  not  help,  however,  to  extend  to  them  the  an- 
cient name  of  'Assyrians,'  because  the  land  which  they 
now  inhabit  was  formerly  called  by  this  name.  Yet 
they  forget  that  at  one  time,  especially  at  the  latter  end 
of  the  Assyrian  monarchy, '  Chaldean '  and  'Assyrian'  were 
synonymous  words,  and  the  nation  was  sometimes  known 
by  one  name  and  sometimes  by  the  other.  Take,  for  in- 
stance, the  words  '  English'  and  '  British,'  which  are  used 
frequently  one  for  the  other. 

"The  late  Dr.  Grant,  a  member  of  the  American  Board 


372  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

of  Missions,  wLo  is  well  known  for  his  philanthropy  and 
Christian  love  to  the  Nestorians,  published  a  work  en- 
titled '  The  Nestorians ;  or,  The  Lost  Tribes,'  wherein  he 
tries  to  prove  that  the  existing  Nestorians  are  the  de- 
scendants of  '  the  dispersed  of  Israel.'  He  remarks  on 
the  word  '  Chaldean,'  in  the  above-mentioned  work  (page 
170), in  the  following  terms:  'Chaldean  is  a  name  com- 
monly used  to  distinguish  the  Papal,  but  it  is  seldom 
applied  to  the  orthodox,  Nestorians ;  and  when  so  ap- 
plied, it  is  used  to  express  their  relation  to  Abraham, 
who  was  from  "  Ur  of  the  Chaldees." '  This  remark,  in 
my  opinion,  contradicts  itself,  because  if  the  Nestorians 
are  related  to  Abraham,  who  was  a  Chaldean,  surely 
they  themselves  must  also  be  Chaldeans  ! 

"And  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight,  two  American  mis- 
sionaries, in  a  work  entitled  '  Researches  in  Armenia,' 
make  the  following  comment  upon  the  word  '  Chaldean :' 
'The  present  Chaldean  Christians  are  of  recent  origin. 
It  was  in  a.d.  1681  that  the  Nestorian  metropolitan  of 
Diarbekir,  having  quarreled  with  his  patriarch,  was  first 
consecrated  by  the  Pope,  Patriarch  of  the  Chaldeans. 
The  sect  was  as  new  as  the  office,  and  created  for  it. 
Converts  to  Popery  from  the  Nestorian  and  Jacobite 
churches  were  united  in  one  body,  and  dignified  by  the 
name  of  the  "Chaldean  Church."  It  means  no  more  than 
"  Papal  Syrians,"  as  we  have  in  other  parts  "  Papal  Ar- 
menians," and  "  Papal  Greeks."  '  Whether  this  story  is 
a  surmise  on  their  part,  or  they  obtained  the  information 
from  a  reliable  source,  they  do  not  show.  If  the  latter, 
it  is  a  pity  they  did  not  give  their  authority  for  such  an 
extraordinai'y  statement,  because  the  Oriental  records  in 
Rome  will  show  that,  long  before  the  era  they  quote 
(when  they  say  the  Chaldeans  of  Diarbekir  assumed 
this  name),  that  there  are  letters  extant  from  the  Nesto- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  373 

I'ian  patriarchs  and  bishops,  who  style  themselves '  Chal- 
deans;' and,  besides,  it  is  absurd  to  suppose  that  the  Ko- 
man  pontiff  could  or  would  give  the  new  national  name 
of  Chaldean'  to  a  people  who  were  not  living  in  either 
Chaldea  or  Assyria,  to  say  nothing  about  the  converted 
Nestorians  or  Jacobites,  who  have  no  nationality  at  all, 
unless,  indeed,  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight  sujjposed  that 
the  present  Chaldeans  of  Diarbekir  are  descendants  of 
Nestorius  or  Jacob  Baradeus !  To  show  how  fallacious 
are  these  assertions,  I  will  quote  what  Assemani  says  in 
contradiction  thereto.  In  vol.  iv.,  page  75,  he  remarks 
that  'Paul  v.,  the  seventh  Pope  before  Innocent  X.  (to 
whom  I  suppose  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dioight  refer  as  hav- 
ing given  the  name  of  Chaldean  to  the  Nestorians  of  Di- 
arbelch')^\YYotQ  to  Elias,  Patriarch  of  the  Chaldeans  (who 
was  then  a  Nestorian)  thus,  "A  great  part  of  the  East 
was  infected  by  this  heresy  (of  Nestorius)  ;  especially  the 
Chaldeans,,  who  for  this  reason  have  been  called  Nesto- 
rians."' In  the  same  volume,  page  1,  he  also  states  that 
'  the  Chaldeans,  or  Assyrians,  are  called  Orientals,  from 
that  part  of  the  globe  which  they  inhabit,  and  Nesto- 
rians, from  the  heresy  they  profess.' 

"The  Rev.  G.  P.  Badger,  another  writer  about  the 
Chaldeans  and  Nestorians,  touches  also  upon  the  point 
in  dispute,  and  says,  in  his  'Nestorians  and  their  Ritu- 
als' (vol  i.,  page  180):  'When  the  Latin  missionaries  had 
succeeded  in  forming  a  schism  among  the  Nestorians  of 
Diarbekir,  they  wanted  a  name  to  distinguish  the  prose- 
lytes and  their  Assyrian  descent.'  It  is  a  pity  that  Mr. 
Badger  does  not  give  his  authority  for  such  a  supposi- 
tion. He  allow^s  the  Armenians,  the  Greeks,  and  even 
the  Syrians,  to  have  a  name  for  their  nationalities,  and 
yet  the  poor  Nestorians  have  no  nationality  whatever, 
not  even  as  much  as  the  slaves  who  were  imported  from 


374  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Circassia  or  Africa ;  and  the  important  Chaldean  com- 
munity at  Diarbekir  could  only  boast  of  the  name 
'  Sooraye '  and  '  Nestoraye,'  two  Chaldean  words  which 
mean  Christian  and  Nestorian  !  With  regard  to  the 
word  '  Sooraye,'  if  Mr.  Badger  had  examined  the  word 
properly,  he  would  have  found  that  it  was  used  by  peas- 
ants who  spoke  nothing  else  but  Chaldean ;  and  as  the 
natives  of  Diarbekir  speak  merely  Arabic  and  Turkish, 
the  word  '  Sooraye '  would  be  foreign  to  them  as  much 
as  '  Nestoraye.'  All  the  Roman  Catholic  Chaldean  peas- 
antry speak  nothing  else  but  vulgar  Chaldean ;  whereas 
the  respectable  Chaldeans,  wdao  inhabit  the  towns,  speak 
the  language  of  the  place,  Arabic,  Turkish,  or  Persian ; 
and  Chaldean  is  only  used  like  the  Latin  in  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church.  The  peasantry  do  call  themselves 
'  Sooraye,'  and '  Msheehaya ;'  but  they  use  these  words  to 
distinguish  themselves  from  their  Mohammedan  neigh- 
bors, whom  they  style  'Coordan,'  and  'Tayaya.'  The 
meaning  of '  Tayaya '  is  Moliammedan,  nicknamed  after 
an  Arab  tribe  called  Tai,  who  live  at  the  junction  of  the 
Great  Zab  with  the  Tigris. 

"  The  words  '  Msheehaya '  and  '  Sooraye '  are  also  ap- 
plied by  the  Nestorians  to  all  people  who  profess  Chris- 
tianity ;  but  the  peasantry  of  the  Papal  Chaldeans  use 
the  term  '  Sooraye  '  for  all  Christians,  and  limit  the  w^ord 
'Msheehaya' to  Roman  Catholics. 

"When  I  was  at  Faishapoor,  living  at  the  chief's  house, 
my  host  was  conversing  in  Chaldean  with  some  guests 
about  my  family,  and  remarked  that  my  two  surviving 
brothers  were  '  Msheehaya,'  but  that  I  myself  was  'An- 
glaizaia'  (English).  The  poor  man  was  quite  dum- 
founded  when  he  found  that  I  had  understood  what  he 
said,  and  when  I  took  him  to  task  for  saying  that  the 
Ens-lish  are  not  Christians. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  375 

"  If  '  Sooraye '  Dieans  '  Syrian,'  how  can  the  Nestorians 
be  so  named  unless  they  are  made  to  be  descendants  of 
Aram,  or  immigrants  from  Syria  ? 

"In  Chaldean  and  Arabic,  Assyria  is  called  ^Athur,^  as 
it  has  always  been  known  by  this  name  in  that  country; 
but  by  the  Hebrews  it  was  called '  Asshur.'  The  th  has 
been  corrupted  into  6'/  and  in  this  sense,  I  conclude, 
and  not  in  its  meaning  of  Syrian,  the  word  'Sooraye'  has 
been  used  by  the  Chaldean-speaking  people  to  which  Mr. 
Badger  alludes.  It  may  be  also  that  as  the  Fathers  of 
the  Church  were  called  '  Syrians,'  the  Orientals  adopted 
this  name  to  signify  their  Christian  profession. 

"  Three  ancient  Arab  historians,  Yakoot,  Aboo  Alfoda, 
and  Ibn  Saeed,  employ  the  word  'Athur;'  the  first  for 
Mosul  and  Mesopotamia,  the  second  for  Nimroud,  and  the 
third  for  Nineveh  proper.  The  last -mentioned  author 
(vol.  i.,  page  289,  note  11)  says,  'The  city  of  Athur,  which 
is  in  ruins,  is  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament.  There 
dwelt  the  Assyrian  kings  who  destroyed  Jerusalem.' 

"  The  followers  of  Nestorius  did,  and  very  often  do, 
call  themselves  Nestorians;  but  that  is  merely  for  the 
sake  of  distinguishing  themselves  from  the  other  sects. 
Just  as  a  Wesley  an  or  a  Lutheran,  if  waiting  upon  a  re- 
ligious matter,  ^vould  say,  we  are  Wesley  an  s  or  Luther- 
ans. Surely  such  words  could  never  be  misunderstood 
to  mean  nationalities !  Moreover,  as  the  Protestants  are 
not  ashamed  of  the  name  which  was  given  to  them  by 
Rome,  neither  are  the  Nestorians.  But  why  this  doc- 
trinal name  should  be  forced  upon  them  in  the  sense  of 
a  nationality,  when  tlie}^  are  not  connected  with  Nesto- 
rius either  in  his  nationality  or  patriarchate,  is  a  mys- 
tery ! 

"  Now,  let  us  see  what  ancient  historians  say  with  re- 
gard to  the  title  of  Chaldean,  which  has  been  alleged  to 


376  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

have  been  given  by  a  certain  pope  to  the  unfortunate 
obscure  people  who  are  theologically  called  Nestorians. 

"  Bar  Hebraeus,  who  lived  in  the  thirteenth  century, 
in  writing  about  the  Aramean  language  of  the  Chal- 
deans, remarks, '  The  Orientals,  who  are  the  descendants 
of  the  Chaldeans,  are  a  wonderful  people.  In  their 
tongue  there  is  no  difference  between  the  Pthaha  and 
Zkapa.'  These  are  two  vowels  employed  by  the  Chal- 
deans in  their  writing,  and  which  the  so-called  Syrians 
appear  not  to  understand.  Who  can  these  Oriental 
Chaldeans  be,  but  the  people  of  that  name  who  are  the 
oidy  nation  in  the  world  who  have  these  two  vowels  in 
their  alphabet  ? 

"  In  another  place  the  same  author  remarks  with  re- 
gard to  the  Aramean  language  under  the  head  of  the 
first  Syriac  letter 'Alep,'  as  follows:  'There  are  three 
dialects  of  the  Syrian  tongue  ;  1st,  The  Aramean,  or 
Syriac,  properly  so  called,  which  is  the  most  elegant  of 
all,  and  used  in  Mesopotamia  and  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Koha,  or  Edessa,  of  Haran,  and  the  Outer  Syria.  2d, 
The  dialect  of  Palestine,  spoken  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Damascus,  Mount  Libanus,  and  the  Inner  Syria.  3d,  The 
Chaldee  or  Nabathean  dialect,  the  most  unpolished  of 
the  three,  current  in  the  mountainous  23arts  of  Assyria 
and  in  the  villages  of  Kuk  and  Babylonia?' 

"  Here,  again,  no  less  than  five  hundred  years  ago,  a 
Syrian  historian  mentions  the  very  dialect  of  the  Ara- 
mean language  which  is  now  used  by  the  Chaldeans. 
We  do  not  agree,  however,  with  the  Syrians  that  our 
Chaldean  dialect  is  '  unpolished,'  but,  on  the  contrary,  Ave 
consider  it  the  prettiest  of  all  the  Aramean  dialects. 

"Assemani,  another  Syrian  historian  (in  vol.  iii,,  page 
177),  makes  reference  to  the  Chaldean  Nestorians  as  fol- 
lows: 'The  Nestorians  are  not  called  by  this  name  in 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH.  377 

the  East  (for  tliey  regard  their  doctrine  as  apostolic; 
and  they  had  never  any  connection  with  the  person  of 
Nestorius),  but  are  generally  called  Chaldaic  Christians 
(because  their  principal  or  head  church  is  in  ancient 
Chaldea); 

"The  Chaldeans,  Armenians,  and  Kurds  who  inhab- 
ited, and  do  now  inhabit,  the  mountainous  country  to 
the  north  of  Nineveh,  are  mentioned  in  the 'Anabasis' 
of  Xenophon,  which  account  goes  far  to  show  that  the 
very  people  who  existed  then  exist  now. 

"  In  book  iv.,  chap,  iii,,  the  following  account  is  writ- 
ten about  these  tribes:  'At  day -break,  however,  they 
perceived  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  a  body  of  cav- 
alry in  complete  armor,  ready  to  prevent  them  from 
crossing,  and,  on  the  high  banks  above  the  cavalry,  an- 
other body,  of  foot,  prepared  to  hinder  them  from  enter- 
ing Armenia.  These  w^ere  Armenians,  Mardians,  and 
Chaldeans,  mercenary  troops  of  Orontes  and  Artuchas. 
The  Chaldeans  were  said  to  be  a  free  people,  and  war- 
like ;  for  arms  they  had  long  shields  and  spears.  .  The 
high  banks  on  which  these  forces  were  drawn  up  were 
three  or  four  hundred  feet  from  the  river,  and  the  only 
road  that  was  visible  was  one  that  led  upward,  ai:)par- 
ently  a  work  of  art.  Here  the  Greeks  endeavored  to 
cross ;  but  as,  on  making  trial,  the  water  rose  above  their 
breasts,  and  the  bed  of  the  river  was  rough  with  large 
and^slijipery  stones,  and  as  it  was  impossible  for  them  to 
carry  their  arms  in  the  water,  or,  if  they  attempted  to 
do  so,  the  river  sw^ept  them  away  (while  if  any  of  them 
took  their  arms  on  their  heads,  they  became  exposed  to 
the  arrows  and  other  missiles  of  the  enemy);  they,  in 
consequence,  retreated,  and  encamped  at  the  side  of  the 
river. 

'"They   now    perceived    the    Carduchi    assembled    in 


378  THRONES  AND   PALACES   OF 

great  numbers,  under  arms,  on  the  spot  where  they  them- 
selves had  been  on  the  previous  night.  Hence  great  de- 
spondency was  felt  by  the  Greeks,  as  they  knew  the  dif- 
ficulty of  passing  the  river,  and  saw  the  Carduchi  ready 
to  attack  them  if  they  attempted  to  cross.' 

"  Then  in  '  Cyropsedia,'  book  iii.,  chap,  ii.,  Xenophon 
gives  the  following  account  of  the  Chaldeans  and  Ar- 
menians: 'The  next  day,  Cyrus,  taking  Tigranes  with 
him,  and  the  best  of  the  Median  horse,  together  with  as 
many  of  his  own  friends  as  he  thought  proper,  rode 
round  and  surveyed  the  country,  examining  where  he 
should  build  a  fortress.  Going  up  to  a  certain  emi- 
nence, he  asked  Tigranes  what  sort  of  mountains  they 
were  from  which  the  Chaldeans  came  down  to  plunder 
the  country.  Tigranes  pointed  them  out  to  him.  He 
then  inquired  again,  "And  are  these  mountains  now  en- 
tirely deserted  ?"  "  No,  indeed,"  said  he ;  "  but  there  are 
always  scouts  of  the  Chaldeans  there,  who  give  notice  to 
the  rest  of  w^hatever  they  observe."  "And  how  do  they 
act,"  said  he,  "  when  they  receive  this  notice  ?"  "  They 
hasten  wdth  aid  to  the  eminences,  just  as  each  can."  Cy- 
rus gave  attention  to  this  account,  and,  looking  round, 
observed  a  great  part  of  tlie  Armenian  territory  deserted 
and  uncultivated  in  consequence  of  the  war.  They  then 
returned  to  the  camp ;  and,  after  taking  supper,  went  to 
rest.' 

"Again,  'The  Chaldeans  had  each  a  shield  and  two 
javelins.  They  are  said  to  be  the  most  warlike  of  all 
people  in  that  part  of  the  world.  They  serve  as  merce- 
naries, if  any  one  requires  their  services,  being  a  warlike 
people,  and  poor,  for  their  country  is  mountainous,  and 
but  little  of  it  yields  any  thing  profitable.  As  Cyrus's 
men  approached  the  heights,  Tigranes,  who  was  riding 
on  with  Cyrus,  said,  "  Cyrus,  are  you  aware  that  we  our- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  379 

selves  must  very  soou  come  to  action,  as  the  Armenians 
will  not  stand  the  attack  of  the  enemy  ?"  Cyrus,  telling 
him  that  he  knew  it,  immediately  gave  orders  to  the 
Persians  to  hold  themselves  in  readiness,  as  they  w-ould 
have  immediately  to  press  forward  as  soon  as  the  fl3^ing 
Armenians  drew  the  enemy  down  so  as  to  be  near  them. 
The  Armenians  accordingly  led  on  ;  and  such  of  the 
Chaldeans  as  were  on  the  spot  when  the  Armenians  ap- 
proached raised  a  shout,  and,  according  to  their  custom, 
ran  upon  them ;  and  the  Armenians,  according  to  their 
custom,  did  not  stand  their  charge. 

"  'When  the  Chaldeans, j)ursuing, saw"  swordsmen  front- 
ing them  and  pressing  up  the  hill,  some  of  them  coming 
up  close  to  the  enemy  were  at  once  killed,  some  fled,  and 
some  were  taken,  and  the  heights  were  immediately  gained. 
As  soon  as  Cyrus's  men  were  in  occupation  of  the  sum- 
mit, they  looked  down  on  the  habitations  of  the  Chalde- 
ans, and  perceived  them  fleeing  from  the  nearest  houses.' 

"Both  the  Armenians  and  Kurds  (Carduchians)  in- 
habit the  same  country  now,  and  why  not  the  Chaldeans  ? 
The  Armenians  speak  Armenian ;  the  Kurds,  Median, 
or  corrupt  Persian ;  and  the  Chaldeans,  Chaldean.  Why 
are  the  two  former  tribes  acknowledged  without  any 
dispute  to  be  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  Armenians 
and  Carduchians,  and  why  not  the  Chaldeans?  Even  in 
the  present  time  the  Nestorians  are  considered  a  very 
warlike  people,  and  the  Armenians  just  the  opposite — as 
they  were  in  the  time  of  Xenophon.  Why,  then,  should 
the  Armenians  be  called  Armenians,  but  the  Chaldeans 
merely  Nestorians  'I 

"All  the  Armenians  profess  Christianity,  like  the  Chal- 
deans; but  all  the  Kurds  are  Mohammedans,  like  the 
Turks  and  Arabs. 

"  Having  enumerated  some  testimonies  given  by  dif- 


380  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

ferent  historians  with  regard  to  certain  people  inhabit- 
ing Assyria  and  the  mountainous  country  above  it,  who 
were  called  Chaldeans  and  Assyrians,  and  who  are  now 
styled  Chaldeans,  I  must  say  a  few  words  with  regard  to 
certain  facts  which,  in  my  opinion,  are  convincing  proofs 
that  the  present  Chaldeans  are  the  descendants  of  the 
ancient  people  of  that  name. 

"  Firstly,  the  Chaldeans  speak  the  very  same  language 
as  is  used  by  that  remarkable  tribe  of  Sabeans,  or  Chris- 
tians of  St.  John,  as  they  are  vulgarly  called,  who  lived 
near  what  was  considered  to  be  ancient  Chaldea,  and 
who  are  generally  supposed  to  be  descendants  of  the  old 
Babylonians  and  Chaldeans, 

"  Secondly,  the  present  Chaldeans,  with  a  few  varia- 
tions, speak  the  same  dialect  used  in  the  Targum,  and  in 
some  parts  of  Ezra  and  Daniel,  which  is  called  '  Chal- 
dee.'  The  Nestorians  have  no  other  language  but  this, 
and  must  have  inherited  it  from  their  forefathers,  the 
Chaldeans  ;  unless,  indeed,  the  fanciful  critiques  can  show 
that  the  popes  of  Rome  made  the  converted  Nestorians 
adopt  the  Chaldee  when  they  bestowed  upon  them  the 
national  name  of  '  Chaldean.' 

"Thirdly,  the  ten  following  words,  Avhich  are  pure 
Chaldean,  are  understood  and  pronounced  at  the  present 
(lay  by  the  Chaldeans  as  they  were  when  written  in  the 
days  of  yore.  They  are  as  follows :  '  Malchites,' '  Yagar,' 
'Sahadutha,'  '  Rabshakah,'  '  Gabrius,'  '  Nahr,' '  Malka,' 
'Abram,'  '  Naharaina,' '  Sarai.' 

"  '  Yagar-sahadutha '  was  used  by  Laban  when  he  made 
a  league  with  Jacob,  and  means  heap  of  witness.  (Gen. 
xxxi.,  47). 

"  '  Nahr-raalka '  is  the  name  of  a  sfreat  canal  which  is 
mentioned  by  many  ancient  historians  as  having  existed 
in  Babylon,  and  means  7'oyal,  or  hincfs  I'iver^ 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH:  381 

" 'Naharaiua'  is  the  name  of  Mesopotamia  in  Chal- 
dea,  and  is  found  on  the  Egyptian  monuments. 

"  '  Malcbites '  is  the  name  given  by  the  ancient  Orient- 
al Church  to  the  Greek  community,  which  means  Mng- 
crafty  because  their  doctrine  was  supported  by  the  em- 
perors of  Constantinople. 

"'Gabrius'  (Chaldean,  '  Gabria,'  which  means  ma7i  of 
God)^  mentioned  in  Herodotus  as  being  an  Assyrian  fol- 
lower of  Darius. 

"'Rabshakah'  (Chaldean,  '  Rub-husheecka,'  which 
means  the  mighty  lord,  or  the  mighty  prince\  the  As- 
syrian general  who  was  sent  by  Sennacherib,  and  whom 
Eliakim  and  his  companions  asked  to  speak  to  them  in 
the  Syrian  or  Arameau  language.     Vide  Isaiah  xxxvi.,  2. 

"  'Abram'  and  'Sarai'  require  no  explanation,  as  they 
are  pure  Chaldean  words  which  mean,  the  first,  the  exalted 
father;  and  the  second,  my  lady. 

"  I  might  quote  a  hundred  other  words,  besides  the 
names  of  the  months,  days  of  the  week,  and  the  heaven- 
ly host ;  and  find,  with  a  few  exceptions,  the  names  used 
to-day  by  the  Chaldeans  are  the  same  as  they  were  men- 
tioned before  the  Christian  era,  both  by  sacred  and  pro- 
fane writers. 

"  What  greater  proof  can  there  be  of  the  origin  of  a 
people  than  their  language?  And  certainly  the  Chal- 
deans are  as  much  entitled  to  be  called  by  that  name  as 
the  Jews,  Armenians,  Greeks,  and  Arabs,  who  now  speak 
the  language  of  their  forefathers.  As  the  Assyrian  or 
Aramean  language  became  the  vernacular  dialect  of  Mes- 
opotamia, Syria,  and  the  Holy  Land  after  the  Assyrian 
conquest,  so  also,  when  the  Arabians  took  possession  of 
those  countries,  they  established  their  language,  which 
has  been  in  use  up  to  the  present  day.  Then,  again,  all 
the  Chaldeans,  whether  Nestorians  or  Papal,  still  keep 


382  THEONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

strictly  the  three  days'  fast  of  what  is  called  '  Bavvootha- 
dnenway/  or  Supplication  of  Nineveli^  which  the  Chal- 
deaDS  assert  to  have  been  continued  from  the  time  the 
Ninevites  repented  at  the  preaching  of  Jonah.  The  Syr- 
ians, who,  as  I  said  before,  must  have  belonged  to  the 
same  stock  as  the  Chaldeans,  also  keep  the  same  fast,  but 
not  with  the  same  devotional  observances. 

"  Though,  as  previously  said,  Arabic  is  the  vernacular 
language  of  Mesopotamia,  Syria,  and  the  Holy  Land,  yet 
each  ancient  sect  uses  its  national  or  mother  tono;ue  in 
its  rituals  and  other  ecclesiastical  rites ;  but  the  Chal- 
deans in  Upper  Assyria  and  Kurdistan,  as  well  as  the 
Kurds,  can  only  speak  their  own  tongue,  Chaldean  or 
Kurdish ;  whereas  official  work  all  over  the  Ottoman 
dominions  is  carried  on  in  Turkish. 

"  The  language  which  is  used  by  the  Chaldeans  is 
known  in  Europe  by  the  name  of  Syriac;  but  we  our- 
selves call  it  Chaldean.  We  apply  the  word  'Syriac'  to 
the  character  used  by  the  so-called  Syrians  or  Jacobites. 
It  is  true,  there  is  very  little  difference  between  the 
Chaldean  and  Syriac,  but  there  is  some  difference  in  the 
pronunciation  of  certain  letters,  the  vowel-23oints,  and  in 
the  formation  of  the  letters,  as  much  as  there  is  between 
the  Old  Eno;lish  and  the  Koman  characters. 

"  Formerly  all  the  so-called  Syrians  employed  the  same 
writing,  and  pronounced  every  word  the  same  as  the 
Chaldeans  do  now;  but  in  the  thirteenth  century  Bar 
Hebrseus,  a  promoter  of  the  Jacobites,  wishing  to  make  a 
thorouQ-h  distinction  between  the  writino;  of  the  Mo- 
nophysites  and  that  of  the  Nestorians,  changed  the  char- 
acters and  the  vowel-points. 

"  The  Chaldean  p  and  a  are  changed  by  the  Syrians 
into  ^jZ*  and  o;  for  instance,  what  the  former  pronounce 
our  Lord's  word  eppatliaha,  the  latter  would  call  eplio- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  383 

thoho.  Then  such  words  as  '  maranatha,'  our  LonVs  com- 
ing ;  ^  iihhi\^\fathei' ;  '  talitha,' ^/^mst^/;  '  Maria,' Z(9;'(a^;  'Al- 
laha/  God^  the  Syrians  pronounce  '  moronotho,'  '  obbo,' 
'  toletho,' '  Morio;  and  •  Olloho.' 

"  While  every  one  knows  that  the  writing  of  the  pres- 
ent Syriac  was  invented  in  the  thirteenth  ceutur}^,  the 
Syrian  scholars  in  England  disdain  to  call  the  old  writ- 
ing of  the  Chaldeans  by  any  other  name  than  '  Syriac,' 
Indeed,  some  scholars  have  now  gone  so  far  as  to  give 
to  the  old  Chaldean  character,  which  is  said  to  have  ex- 
isted three  hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era,  the 
extraordinary  name  of  '  Syro-Chaldaic,'  which  is,  in  my 
opinion,  a  far-fetched  misnomer. 

"  With  regard  to  the  doctrine  of  the  so-called  Nesto- 
rians,  their  uncharitable  enemies  have  so  much  exagger- 
ated certain  dogmas  which  \rere  promulgated  by  Nesto- 
rius,  that  really  one  would  think  that  the  present  Nesto- 
rians  are  almost  as  great  unbelievers  as  the  Unitarians ; 
whereas  the  only  difference  that  exists  between  them 
and  the  Universal  Catholic  Church,  and  which  has  sep- 
arated them  from  all  other  Christian  sects  for  so  many 
centuries,  is  merely  a  play  upon  words.  They  believe  as 
much  as  any  orthodox  Christian  in  the  Trinity  in  unity, 
and  tlie  unity  in  Trinity,  and  that  the  Word  was  made 
iiesh,  and  dwelt  among  us. 

"The  fact  is,  the  Eatychian  heresy  was  so  obnoxious 
to  the  so-called  ISTestorian  Church  on  account  of  attrib- 
uting to  our  Redeemer  only  one  nature,  and  confounding 
the  human  with  the  Divine,  tending  thereby  to  the 
blasphemous  conclusion  that  the  Godhead  suffered,  that 
those  who  sympathized  with  Nestorius  adopted  such 
Anti-monophysite  views  as  were  construed  by  the  West- 
ern Church  into  creatino;  a  too  wide  distinction  between 
tlie  Divine  and  human  attributes.     They  confess  that  in 


384  THRONES  AND   PALACES  OF 

our  Lord  Jesus  Christ  there  are  two  natures  and  two 
persons,  hut  one  Parsopa ;  and  although  by  attributing 
two  persons  to  our  Saviour  against  one  person,  as  pro- 
fessed by  the  rest  of  the  Christian  world,  yet  they  add 
the  one  Parsopa,  which  really  means  07ie  person,  in  the 
sense  it  is  understood  by  those  who  call  them  heretics.* 

"To  give  you  a  clearer  and  fuller  account  of  the  his- 
tory of  the  Nestorian  Church,  I  do  not  think  I  can  do 
better  than  to  quote  some  apposite  accounts  from  a  few 
ancient  and  modern  authors. 

"I  must  begin  with  Assemani,  who  remarks  {vide 
Rich,  ' Koordistan,'  vol.  ii.,  page  120),  'The  Chaldeans, 
or  Assyrians,  received  Christianity  in  the  time  of  the 
twelve  apostles — Peter,  Thomas  (Thomas,  the  incredu- 
lous, and  the  apostle  of  India),  Bartholomew,  Matthew, 
and  Judas  the  son  of  James,  and  Thaddeus,  also  called 
Lebbeus ;  also  Thaddeus  of  the  seventy,  and  Mark  and 
Alpheus,  are  called  the  apostles  of  the  Syrians  and  Chal- 
deans. Addus,  or  Adi,  one  of  the  seventy  disciples,  was 
sent  into  the  East  by  St.  Thomas,  one  of  the  twelve,  and 
was  martyred  at  Edessa,  under  the  son  of  the  celebrated 
Abgarus,  on  his  return  from  pi'eaching  in  Persia,  Assyria, 
and  BaV)ylonia.  Mark,  a  disciple  of  Addus,  proclaimed 
the  Gospel  in  Babylonia,  Assyria,  and  Persia.  He  fixed 
his  residence  at  Ctesiphon  and  Seleucia,  and  was  called 
the  first  Bishop  of  Seleucia,  and  became  the  head  of  the 
Oriental  Church.  He  died  after  a  ministry  of  thirty- 
three  years  (from  a.d.  48  to  82).  St.  Thomas,  whose 
surname,  according  to  some,  was  Jude,  not  only  was  the 
apostle  of  the  Syrians  and  Chaldeans,  but  also  of  the 

*  The  Nicene  Creed  is  one  of  their  articles  of  faith,  and  I  think  this  is 
sufficient  evidence  of  their  belief  in  the  unity  of  the  two  natures.  With 
regard  to  the  procession  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  however,  they  agree  with  the 
Greek  Church. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  385 

Parthians,  Persians,  Medes,  and  Indians.  It  has  been 
doubted  whether  St.  Thomas  himself  ever  penetrated 
into  India.' 

"Assemani  again  remarks  (vobiii.,  p.  177)  :  'The  Chal- 
deans constitute  a  large  Christian  community,  which  has 
no  connection  with  others.  They  have  their  own  forms 
of  worship),  their  own  bishops,  and  their  own  ecclesias- 
tical councils.  Their  church  extends  through  all  Asia, 
and  exists  partly  in  the  Persian,  partly  in  the  Turkish, 
and  23arty  in  the  Mogul  empire.  The  patriarch  resides 
in  a  monastery  not  far  fi'om  Mosul,  and  has  a  great  many 
bishops  under  him.  The  enmity  of  the  Persians,  and  aft- 
erward of  the  Mohammedans  and  Saracens,  against  the 
Romans,  contributed  much  to  further  the  spread  of  this 
sect ;  for  they  received  refugees  from  the  Koman  empire, 
and  extended  full  protection  to  such  Christians  as  were 
not  tolerated  in  the  Koman  provinces,  and  whom,  of 
course,  they  could  not  suspect  of  any  understanding  wnth 
the  Romans.  Ibas,  Bishop  of  Edessa,  was  one  of  the 
greatest  defenders  of  the  Nestorians  among  the  Orient- 
als ;  and  on  that  account  his  epistle  to  Marin,  the  Persian 
bishop  of  Ardaschir,  was  rejected  by  some  councils.  But 
the  chief  persons  among  them  were  Barsumas  and  his  as- 
sistant, Maanos.  After  the  death  of  Barsumas,  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Seleucia,  Babacus,  became  the  head  of  the 
party;  and  from  this  time  onward  the  patriarchs  re- 
sided at  Seleucia,  until,  under  the  caliphs,  Bagdad  and 
Mosul  were  selected  for  that  purpose.  This  Babacus 
held  a  council  in  the  year  499,  in  which  not  only  the 
\vhole  Persian  Church  professed  itself  to  belong  to  the 
Nestorian  community,  but  regulations  were  also  made 
that  all  bishops  and  priests  must  be  married,  and  that 
second  marriages  of  the  clerg}^  were  not  merely  permit- 
ted, but  declared  to  be  necessary.' 

25 


386  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

"  Mosheim,  in  his  'Ecclesiastical  History,'  cent,  v.,  book 
ii.,  part  ii.,  says:  'To  pass  by  the  minor  errors  which 
were  attributed  to  Nestorius,  he  is  said  to  have  divided 
Christ  into  two  persons,  and  to  have  held  that  the  Di- 
vine nature  joined  itself  to  the  full  form  of  man,  and 
only  aided  him  during  his  life.  But  Nestorius  himself, 
as  long  as  he  lived,  professed  himself  utterly  opposed  to 
such  sentiments.  Nor  were  such  sentiments  ever  di- 
rectly stated  by  him,  but  only  inferred  by  his  adversa- 
ries, from  his  rejection  of  the  epithet,  "  Mother  of  God," 
and  from  some  incautious  and  ambiguous  terms  which 
he  used.  Hence  very  many,  both  among  the  ancients 
and  the  moderns,  think  that  he  held  the  same  senti- 
ments that  the  Ephesian  fathers  did,  though  he  ex- 
pressed himself  in  a  different  manner;  and  they  cast  the 
whole  blame  of  this  most  destructive  contest  upon  the 
restless  spirit  of  Cyril,  and  his  malignant  disposition  to- 
ward Nestorius.  Allowing  these  to  judge  correctly,  still 
Nestorius  must  be  pronounced  guilty  of  two  faults ;  first 
that  he  was  disposed,  rashly,  and  with  offense  to  many, 
to  abolish  the  use  of  a  harmless  term  which  had  long 
been  current;  and,  secondly,  that  he  presumed  to  ex- 
press and  explain,  by  unsuitable  phrases  and  compari- 
sons, a  mystery  which  exceeds  all  human  comprehension. 
If  to  these  faults  be  added  the  excessive  vanity  and  im- 
petuosity of  the  man,  it  will  be  difficult  to  determine 
which  was  the  principal  cause  of  this  great  contest,  Cyril 
or  Nestorius.' 

"Then,  again,  in  cent,  v.,  book  ii.,  part  ii.,  Mosheim 
says:  'The  Nestorian  faith  is  indebted  to  no  one,  of  all 
its  friends,  more  than  it  is  to  Barsumas,  who  was  ejected 
from  the  school  of  Edessa,  with  his  associates,  and  cre- 
ated, in  the  year  435,  Bishop  of  Nisibis.  From  the  year 
440  to  the  year  485,  he  labored  with  incredible  assidu- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  387 

ity  and  dexterity  to  procure  for  Nestorianism  a  perma- 
nent establishment  in  Persia.  Maanos,  Bishop  of  Ardas- 
chir,  was  his  principal  coadjutor.  His  measures  were  so 
successful  that  all  Nestorians  in  Chaldea,  Persia,  Assyria, 
and  the  neighboring  countries,  deservedly  reverence  this 
Barsumas  alone,  to  this  da}^,  as  their  parent  and  founder. 
He  persuaded  the  Persian  monarch,  Pherozes,  to  expel 
the  Christians  who  adhered  to  the  opinions  of  the  Greek 
fathers,  and  not  only  to  admit  Nestorians  in  their  j^lace, 
but  to  allow  them  to  make  the  first  cities  in  Persia,  Se- 
leucia  and  Ctesiphon,  their  primary  seat,  which  their 
patriarchs  occupied  even  down  to  our  times.  He  also 
erected  the  famous  school  at  Nisibis,  from  which  issued 
those  who,  in  this  and  the  following  centuries,  carried 
the  Nestorian  doctrines  into  Egypt,  Syria,  Arabia,  India, 
Tartary,  and  even  to  China.  Before  this  sect  became 
fully  formed  and  established,  there  was  some  difference 
of  opinion  in  it.  Some  said  that  the  manner  in  which 
the  two  natures  in  Christ  were  combined  was  wholly 
unknown ;  but  others  denied  any  other  connection  than 
that  of  will,  operation,  and  dignity.  But  this  disagree- 
ment wholly  disappeared  from  the  time  that  the  Nes- 
torian  community  became  duly  consolidated.  For  it 
was  decreed  by  the  synods  assembled  at  Seleucia  that 
there  were  in  the  Saviour  of  mankind  two  persons,  or 
vTToaTaatig — namely,  a  divine,  that  of  the  Word,  and  a  hu- 
man, that  of  Jesus ;  yet  that  both  persons  constituted 
but  one  aspect,  or,  as  they  (following  Nestorius)  ex- 
pressed it,  one  Barsopa;  that  is,  that  this  union  of  the 
Son  of  God  with  the  Son  of  man  took  place  at  the  mo- 
ment of  conception,  and  would  never  end ;  but  that  it 
was  not  a  union  of  natures  or  persons,  but  only  of  will 
and  affection.  Christ,  therefore,  must  be  carefully  distin- 
guished from  God,  who  dwelt  in  Christ  as  in  his  temple 


388  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

(as  Nestorius  bad  said);  and  that  Mary  should  never  be 
called  the  mother  of  God,  but  only  the  mother  of  Christ. 
They  reverence  Nestorius  as  a  holy  man,  and  worthy 
of  everlasting  remembrance ;  but  they  maintain  that  his 
doctrine  was  much  more  ancient  than  he,  being  derived 
from  the  earliest  ages  of  the  Church  ;  and  therefore  they 
wish  not  to  be  called  Nestorians.  And  it  appears,  in 
fact,  that  Barsumas  and  his  associates  did  not  inculcate 
on  their  followers  precisely  the  doctrines  taught  by  Nes- 
torius,  but  they  in  some  measure  polished  his  imperfect 
system,  enlarged  it,  and  connected  with  it  other  doctrines 
which  Nestorius  never  embraced.' 

"  I  also  quote  the  following  interesting  account  of  the 
origin  of  the  Chaldean  Church  from  the  Rev.  W.  Badger's 
work,  entitled  'Nestorians  and  their  Bituals'  (vol.  i., 
page  136):  'According  to  ecclesiastical  tradition,  Mar 
Addai  and  Mar  Mari  were  the  founders  of  the  Christian 
Church  in  Chaldea  and  Mesopotamia.  The  latter  is  re- 
garded by  the  Nestorians  as  their  first  patriarch.  From 
him  they  derive  the  validity  of  their  present  sacerdotal 
orders  in  an  unbroken  line  of  spiritual  descent;  and  to 
him  and  Mar  Addai,  his  companion  in  the  work  of  evan- 
gelization, they  ascribe  the  authorship  of  one  of  their 
three  liturgies,  or  communion  offices.  The  following  is  a 
summary  of  the  labors  of  Mar  Mari,  taken  from  the  his- 
tory of  Sleewa  Ibn  Yohanna,  a  Nestorian  author,  who 
lived  in  the  early  part  of  the  fourteenth  century.  After 
founding  the  Eastern  see  at  Ctesiphon,  then  the  seat  of 
the  Persian  monarchy,  and  inhabited  chiefly  by  Ma- 
gians.  Mar  Mari  discipled  Doorkan  and  Cashgar,  and 
traveled  on  the  same  mission  through  the  two  Iraks,  Ell- 
Ahr4s,  Yensen,  and  the  islands  of  the  Arabian  and  In- 
dian seas,  converting  many  heathen  to  Christianity  by 
his  preaching,  and  by  the  signs  and  miracles  which  he 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH,  889 

wrought,  and  forming  them  into  churches.  On  his  re- 
turn to  Ctesiphon,  he  ordained  that  that  city  should  be 
raised  into  a  patriarchal  see ;  and  before  his  death,  which 
took  place  a.d.  82,  he  intimated  that  his  successor  was  at 
Jerusalem,  and  should  be  sought  for  there.  According- 
ly, after  the  decease  of  Mar  Mari,  the  company  of  the 
faithful  sent  to  the  Holy  City  to  Simon,  who  succeeded 
James,  the  brother  of  the  Lord,  as  head  over  the  church 
there,  requesting  him  to  send  them  a  patriarch.  The 
person  elected  was  Abrees,  who  was  consecrated  at  Je- 
rusalem, and  sent  to  Ctesiphon,  a.d.  90.  Abrees  died 
during  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Hadrian,  having  filled 
the  Eastern  see  for  the  space  of  seventeen  years. 

"  'After  the  lapse  of  twenty-two  years,  Abraham,  a  kins- 
man of  James,  the  brother  of  our  Lord,  was  appointed  to 
succeed  Abrees,  and  ruled  over  the  church  in  the  East 
from  A.D.  130  to  a.d.  152.  During  his  supremacy,  the 
Christians  were  sorely  persecuted  by  the  Persian  king, 
who  was  instigated  thereto  by  the  Magians.  His  suc- 
cessor was  Yaakoob  (James),  who  also  was  of  the  kin- 
dred of  Mary,  the  Blessed  Virgin.  Previous  to  his  death, 
he  gave  directions  that  two  of  his  disciples,  Kam-Yeshua, 
and  Aha  d'Abhooi,  should  go  to  Antioch,  in  order  that 
one  of  them  might  be  consecrated  patriarch  there.  They 
accordingly  went,  but  were  seized  as  spies  of  the  King 
of  Persia,  who  condemned  them,  together  with  Saleeba, 
the  Patriarch  of  Antioch,  to  be  crucified  before  the  church 
in  that  city.  Aha  d'Abhooi,  however,  escaped  to  Jeru- 
salem, and  was  consecrated  there  by  Mattias,  the  occu- 
pant of  that  see,  in  the  Church  of  the  Resurrection.  He 
reached  Ctesiphon  a.d.  205,  and  presided  over  the  Chris- 
tians of  the  East  for  fifteen  years.  After  another  patri- 
arch had  been  set  over  Antioch,  it  was  agreed  upon  by  the 
patriarchs  of  the  four  great  sees  that  the  Eastern  patri- 


390  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

arch  elect  should  not  again  come  to  Antiocli  to  be  conse- 
crated, but  that  the  metropolitans,  bishops,  elders,  and 
faithful  should  choose  him  who  was  to  fill  the  see,  and 
ordain  him  thereunto,  in  the  church  at  Ctesiphon. 

"  I  can  not  do  better  than  to  conclude  with  the  follow- 
ing true  and  generous  renfiarks  made  by  the  great  eccle- 
siastical historian  regarding  the  purity  and  simplicity  of 
the  primitive  Nestorian  Church  :  'The  Nestorians,  who 
are  also  called  Chaldeans,  reside  principally  in  Mesopo- 
tamia and  the  adjacent  countries.  These  Christians  have 
many  doctrines  and  customs  peculiar  to  themselves ;  but 
they  are  chiefly  distinguished  from  all  other  sects  by 
maintaining  that  Nestorius  was  unjustly  condemned  in 
the  Council  of  Ephesus,  and  by  holding  with  him  that 
there  were  not  only  two  natures  but  also  two  persons  in 
our  Saviour.  In  ancient  times  this  was  regarded  as  a 
capital  error ;  at  this  day,  it  is  considered  by  the  most 
respectable  men,  even  among  the  Roman  Catholics,  as  an 
error  in  words  rather  than  in  thought.  For  these  Chal- 
deans affirm,  indeed,  that  Christ  consists  of  two  persons, 
as  well  as  two  natures;  but  they  add,  that  these  two 
persons  and  natures  are  so  closely  united  as  to  consti- 
tute one  aspect,  or,  as  they  express  it,  one  Barsopa ;  which 
is  the  same  with  the  Greek  -rrpoawwov, person.  From  which 
it  appears  clearly  that  by  aspect  they  mean  the  same  as 
we  do  by  person;  and  that  what  we  call  natures,  they 
call  'persons.  It  is  to  the  honor  of  this  sect,  that,  of  all 
the  Christians  resident  in  the  East,  they  have  preserved 
themselves  the  most  free  from  the  numberless  supersti- 
tions which  have  found  their  way  into  the  Greek  and 
Latin  Churches '  (Mosheim,  cent,  xvi.,  book  iv.,  chap.  ii.). 
"Although  the  unfortunate  Nestorians  have  been  per- 
secuted, harassed,  and  even  massacred  by  the  thousand, 
from  the  time  they  embraced  Christianity,  and  very  often 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  391 

their  bitterest  enemies  were,  what  I  am  ashamed  to  call, 
Christians,  yet  their  former  exploits  in  preaching  the  Gos- 
pel of  salvation  to  the  heathen  far  and  wide,  and  their 
courage  and  fortitude  hitherto  in  keeping  themselves 
from  the  superstitious  practices  of  different  Christian 
sects  around  them,  have  well  earned  for  them  the  title 
of '  Protestants  of  the  East.' 

"  Believe  me,  my  dear  Dr.  Newman,  yours,  most  sin- 
cerely, H.  R  ASS  AM. 

'•  The  Rev.  J.  P.  Newman,  D.D." 


392  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 


CHAPTEK  VIIL 

Departure  from  Mosul.  —  Horseback  Ride  of  Six  Hundred  Miles.  —  Last 
View  of  Nineveh. — First  Day's  Ride. — A  Night  with  the  Devil-worship- 
ers.— Hills  of  Kurdistan. — Tlie  Kurds. — Stuck  in  the  Mud. — Xeuophon's 
Retreat.  —  Sabbath  of  Feshapoor.  —  Crossing  the  Tigris. — Traveling  in 
Mesopotamia. — Girls  of  Uznaoor. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Nisibeen  and  the 
Nestorians. — Roman  Ruins  at  Dara. — The  True  Ararat. — Heights  of  Mar- 
deen. — American  Mission. — Jacobite  Christians. — Missionary  Meeting. — 
Dance  of  the  Devil-worshipers. — Attacked  by  Robbers. — Great  Caravan. 
—No  Water.— Beautiful  Orfah.  —Abraham's  Fishes  and  Birthplace. — Ur 
of  the  Chaldees.  —  Armenian  Christians  and  their  Creed.  —  A  Letter  to 
Christ.  —  American  Church.  —  Roman  Roads  and  Reservoirs. — Milking 
Sheep. — Picturesque  Town  of  Birijik. — Crossing  the  Euphrates.— Travel- 
ing in  Syria. — American  Petroleum. — Three  Hundred  Camels,  and  their 
Habits. — Aleppo  and  its  People. — A  Funeral. — Commerce. — American 
Mission. — A  Beautiful  Lady. — Charming  Scenei-y. — The  Flood. — Roman 
Roads. — Wild  Pass  of  Bey  Ian.  —  First  View  of  the  Sea,  —  End  of  the 
Journey. 

Before  iis  was  a  horseback  ride  of  six  hundred  miles. 
It  was  a  journey  from  Mosul  to  the  sea.  It  was  a  tour 
through  Western  Kurdistan,  through  Central  Mesopo- 
tamia, through  Northern  Syria,  to  Iskenderoon,  on  the 
Mediterranean.  En  route^  we  were  to  pass  through  the 
land  of  the  Yezidis  (the  Devil-worshipers)  ;  through  the 
country  of  the  Nestorians,  whose  missions  had  blessed 
the  East;  and  throuo;h  Christian  villasres  of  the  Greek 
and  Latin  churches.  We  were  to  linger  at  Uz,  where 
Job  suffered  and  triumphed  ;  at  Orfah,  where  Abraham 
was  born ;  and  at  Padan-aram,  where  Jacob  found  his 
beautiful  Rachel. 

There  was  a  shorter  route,  west  of  the  Tigris  and  di- 
rect to  Damascus;  but  the  certainty  of  being  attacked 
l)y  robbers  on  the  desert  was  a  sufficient  reason  why  we 


E  r 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  395 

should  choose  the  longer  way.  We  had  discarded  the 
clumsy  hhajawah,  and  taken  to  the  English  saddle.  For 
our  "  elect  lady  "  we  had  secured  a  ttiJcliteravan,  an  idea 
of  which  is  best  expressed  by  the  accora|)anying  picture, 
which  is  true  to  life.  As  we  had  found  it  necessary  to 
change  dragomans,  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  employ 
Khidthurs,  who  was  a  member  of  the  Protestant  Chris- 
tian community  of  Mosul,  who  had  been  in  the  employ- 
ment of  the  English  consul,  and  who  had  attended  Doc- 
tor Leonard  Bacon  in  his  tour  through  Mesopotamia. 
Khidthurs  was  a  Syrian,  standing  over  six  feet  high,  in- 
telligent and  brave,  an  excellent  cook,  a  polite  and  oblig- 
ing servant,  and  thoroughly  honest. 

Thursday  dawned  without  a  cloud,  and  at  7  a.m.  we 
were  at  the  river,  waiting  for  the  boat.  An  immense 
crowd  gathered  to  witness  the  departure  of  the  Ameri- 
cans. As  usual,  the  Oriental's  love  of  money  was  mani- 
fested, but  with  intensified  greed.  Every  body  expected 
a  present,  not  for  its  intrinsic  value,  but  to  propitiate 
Providence  to  be  kind  to  the  travelers.  We,  however, 
were  willing  to  bestow  a  few  presents  for  their  intrinsic 
value,  and  to  trust  Providence  from  other  considerations, 
A  "  farewell "  to  Mr.  Kassam,  who  had  accompanied  us 
to  the  river,  and  we  were  again  on  the  Tigris,  stemming 
its  tremendous  current.  Safely  over,  we  prepared  for 
our  long  journey.  It  I'equired  an  hour  to  load  the 
mules,  to  put  our  "  elect  lady  "  in  her  tuhhteravan,  and 
to  adjust  our  English  saddles  on  Arabian  horses. 

Our  path  lay  along  the  river,  with  the  mounds  of  Ku- 
yunjik  on  our  right.  It  was  a  temptation  not  easily  re- 
sisted to  mount  the  ancient  walls  of  Nineveh  and  ride 
thereon,  where  war- chariots  were  once  driven  abreast. 
We  lingered  for  a  moment  at  the  old  North-west  Gate, 
and  for  the  last  time  looked  upon  those  mysterious  hu- 


396  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

man-headed  bulls,  whose  vast  proportions  and  admira- 
ble workmanship  nev^er  failed  to  excite  our  wonder  and 
admiration. 

During  the  morning,  we  rode  through  an  undulating 
country  where  shepherds  were  feeding  their  flocks,  and 
native  women  were  workino;  in  the  fields.  On  our  rio-ht 
were  low  mounds,  whose  summits  were  covered  with 
grass,  and  whose  sides  were  stratified  with  white  marble, 
similar  to  that  found  in  the  ruined  palaces  of  Nineveh. 
Above  the  marble  mounds  rose  the  deep-gullied  hills  of 
Kurdistan,  and  far  away  were  the  snow-capped  mount- 
ains of  Media.  At  noon  the  scenery  grew  picturesque, 
and  added  to  the  pleasure  of  the  tour.  The  fields  on 
either  side  were  as  rich  and  well  cultivated  as  any  in 
England  or  America.  At  4  p.m.  we  halted  for  the  night 
at  the  small  town  of  Tel -el -Addis,  pleasantly  located 
among  the  low  hills.  The  villagers  gathered  to  see  us, 
for  our  like  had  never  been  seen  in  their  town  before. 
They  were  tidy  and  welL  dressed,  and  demeaned  them- 
selves in  a  modest  manner.  We  occupied  a  dean  house, 
for  which  we  paid  seven  f)iastres. 

At  five  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  again  in  the 
saddle.  The  weather  was  delightful,  and  the  landscape 
beautiful.  The  soil  was  rich,  and  productive  of  grass 
and  grain ;  but  nowhere  could  be  seen  a  tree  or  a  bush. 
It  is  a  treeless  land.  We  crossed  several  mountain- 
streams,  and  met  one  caravan  bound  for  Mosul.  We 
lunched  at  the  Fountain  of  Feida,  near  which  are  the 
ruins  of  some  unknown  town.  An  hour's  rest,  and  we 
were  again  in  motion.  A  ride  of  three  miles  brought  us 
to  the  village  of  Semail,  to  reach  which  we  had  to  cross 
a  rapid  stream,  and  climb  a  narrow,  steep,  and  rough 
pass  through  red  hills.  Situated  on  a  fertile  plain  near 
the  mountains,  Semail  is  thirty-six  miles  from  Mosul,  and 


^x   ,V 


1 


i  V 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  399 

contains  a  klian,  a  military  station,  and  seventy  dwell- 
ings. But  the  place  bas  a  pecaliar  interest  to  the  trav- 
eler as  being  one  of  the  many  villages  of  the  Yezidis. 
They  constitute  a  community,  and  have  two  principal 
settlements — one  in  the  hills  of  Kurdistan,  and  the  other 
on  the  plains  of  Sinjar.  They  are  a  politico -religious 
body,  and  have  chiefs  temporal  and  chiefs  spiritual. 
The  head-quarters  of  the  Eastern  branch  of  the  tribe  are 
at  Baadir,  in  the  Kurdistan  mountains.  They  were  once 
a  powerful  tribe,  brave  and  thrifty,  but  have  been  much 
reduced  in  numbers  and  resources  by  their  Turkish  mas- 
ters. Of  their  origin  there  is  no  certain  knowledge,  but 
some  regard  them  as  the  descendants  of  the  "  lost  tribes 
of  Israel."  In  their  ordinary  habits  they  are  clean,  quiet, 
and  industrious.  In  their  physiognomy  and  general 
cast  of  appearance  they  resemble  our  American  Indians. 
Their  forms  are  lean  and  lank ;  their  features  are  small, 
sharp,  and  expressive ;  their  color  is  not  the  rich  olive 
of  the  Turk,  nor  the  glowing  sunburned  brown  of  the 
Arab,  but  of  a  deadly  or  sickly  olive  of  the  deepest  hue. 
Their  hair  is  long,  black,  silky,  and  glossy,  and  their 
beard  is  thick  and  full. 

Their  chief  saint  is  Sheikh  Adi,  and  his  tomb  is  their 
most  sacred  shrine.  It  is  in  a  lonely  but  lovely  valley, 
and  thither  the  tribe  goes  once  a  year  to  celebrate  th*^ 
annual  feast.  They  believe  in  one  God,  but  him  tliey 
never  worship.  They  accept  the  Old  Testament  as  di- 
vinely inspired,  and  have  some  knowledge  of  Jesus, 
They  hold  that  Christ  is  a  great  angel,  and  that  he  will 
come  again.  It  is  their  custom  to  baptize  their  children 
seven  days  after  birth,  and  they  also  practice  circumcis- 
ion, which  su2;2:est  their  Jewish  and  Christian  orio-in. 
They  reverence  fire,  into  which  they  never  spit;  and 
through  the  flame  they  pass  their  hands,  and  then  kis? 


d 
> 

n 

^  m 


26 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


403 


his  name  in  vain.  On  their  annual  feast-day,  they  place 
a  bouquet  of  scarlet  anemones  over  the  entrance  to  their 
houses,  and  hope  thereby  to  please  him  whose  name  they 
never  speak.  They  believe  Satan  is  the  chief  of  all  the 
angels,  and  that  Gabriel,  Michael,  and  Eaphael  are  less 
than  he.  Although  he  now  suffers  for  his  disobedience, 
yet  he  is  still  powerful.     He  is  the  prince  of  this  world, 


HIGH-PRIEST   OP   THE   DEVIL- WORSHIPERS. 

and  owns  all  the  kingdoms  thereof;  he  is  the  dispenser 
of  all  evil  which  comes  to  man,  and  is,  therefore,  to  be 
propitiated.  They  believe  that  he  will  be  finally  re- 
stored to  his  former  greatness,  and  they  wish  so  to  de- 
mean themselves  toward  him  that  he  will  remember 
them  when  he  comes  into  his  kingdom.  Their  symbol 
of  the  Evil  One  is  a  bronze  peacock,  around  which  they 


404 


THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 


march  on  their  festal  days,  and  a  duplicate  of  which  their 
priests  carry  when  they  go  on  missions  to  raise  money. 

As  we  had  concluded  to  keep  to  the  plains  and  avoid 
the  mountain-passes,  where  the  snow  was  deep,  and  as 
the  Turkish  soldier  from  Mosul  was  not  allowed  to  leave 
the  post -road,  we  were  compelled  to  take  a  Devil -wor- 
shiper to  escort  us  on  our  way.  He  was  a  young  man, 
of  kind  and  obliging  manners,  and  we  felt  safe  in  his 
company.     A  short  distance  beyond  Semail,  we  met  a 


YEZIDI    WOMEN. 


party  of  gayly  dressed  Kurdish  soldiers,  who  are  the 
sworn  enemies  of  the  native  Christians,  and  for  whom 
we  had  a  more  respectful  fear  than  we  had  for  Satan. 
Toward  evening,  and  after  having  been  in  the  saddle 
eleven  and  a  half  hours,  we  stopped  for  the  night  at  the 
small  village  of  Barsufkee,  where  we  saw  fences  for  the 
first  time  during  all  our  tour.  The  sheikh  was  absent, 
but  his  wife  bade  us  welcome  to  her  new  house,  built  of 
stone.     The  tuhhteravan  was  placed  within  the  entrance, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


405 


in  which  our  "  elect  lady  "  slept,  while  we  spread  our 
blankets  on  the  cemeDt-covered  floor,  surrounded  by  our 
men. 

We  were  now  in  Kurdistan,  and  the  villagers  were 
Kurds,  brave,  fierce,  and  thievish.  They  were  part  of  a 
vast  community  whose  territory  extends  from  near  Mo- 
sul to  the  mountain  fastnesses  of  Diarbekir,  and  from 
the  Desert  of  the  Arabs  on  the  west  to  their  own  mount- 
ain-range on  the  east.  They  are  naturally  mountaineers, 
but  descend  to  the  plains  in  quest  of  pasture.     In  their 


KURDISH   WOMEN. 


pursuits,  they  are  shepherds  and  farmers,  soldiers  and 
robbers.  They  are  all  Moslems,  but  of  the  Persian 
school,  and  therefore  hated  by  the  Turks.  They  love 
independence,  and  are  not  easily  brought  into  subjection. 
Like  all  mountaineers,  they  are  a  free,  brave,  and  happy 
people.  They  delight  in  showy  costumes,  and  in  the 
number  and  brightness  of  their  weapons.  Their  women 
are  agile  as  gazelles,  but  not  half  so  gentle.  They  pride 
themselves  on  their  ornaments  and  the  brio-ht  colors  of 
their  attire.     As  the  men  have  a  jiassion  for  war,  the 


406  THBOXES  AND  PALACES   OF 

women  have  a  passion  for  love.  Their  written  language 
is  Persian,  their  oral  language  is  Arabic;  their  dialects 
are  a  corruj^tion  of  both.  They  are  the  bitter  enemies 
of  the  Chaldean  Christians,  and  in  their  persecutions 
they  are  relentless  and  blood-thirsty  to  the  last  degree. 
No  age,  or  sex,  or  condition  awakens  their  symjiathy  or 
secures  their  mercy.  In  their  Mohammedan  fanaticism, 
they  have  butchered  the  aged,  the  infirm,  nor  spared  the 
helpless  infant ;  they  have  plundered  churches,  murdered 
the  priests,  robbed  and  burned  the  towns,  slaughtered 
the  men,  and  captured  the  women.  They  are  the  ene- 
mies of  all,  the  friends  of  none. 

The  night  passed ;  the  day  dawned ;  the  journey  was 
resumed.  All  promised  well  for  the  day.  But  evil 
lurked  in  the  air.  In  exchanging  soldiers  we  were  com- 
pelled to  take  one  who  was  sickly,  without  animation, 
and  indiiferent  to  our  comfort.  He  was  a  Kurd,  and 
knew  that  we  were  Christians.  In  descending  from  the 
hill  ^vhereon  the  town  stood,  he  should  have  kept  to  the 
left,  and  followed  the  crest  of  the  hills,  and  all  would 
have  been  well ;  but  he  led  us  across  a  meadow  into  the 
thick  mud  of  which  our  mules  and  horses  sunk  to  their 
haunches.  In  their  struggles  to  rise,  the  mules  capsized 
the  tiikhteravan,  broke  the  glass  windows,  and  greatly 
vexed  our  "elect  lady."  But  she  was  soon  extricated 
from  her  embarrassment  by  good  Hadji  Merridj,  who 
carried  her  on  his  back  to  where  the  land  w\is  high 
and  dry.  But  her  companions  were  not  so  fortunate. 
Mr.  Collins  was  thrown  from  his  floundering  horse,  and 
sprained  his  knee,  which  quite  disabled  him  for  several 
days.  I  had  dismounted,  and  was  aiding  my  horse  to 
get  out  of  the  slough,  when,  in  one  of  his  frantic  plunges, 
he  nearly  crushed  my  foot.  The  baggage  mules  wan- 
dered here  and  there,  and  floundered  in  the  mud.     The 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  407 

Kurdish  soldier  contemplated  the  scene  with  evident 
satisfaction.  It  required  two  hours  befoi'e  we  could  re- 
sume our  journey.  The  mules  had  to  be  unloaded,  and 
each  piece  of  baggage  carried  by  hand*  to  the  hill-side. 
The  tukliteravan  had  to  be  detached  and  carried  by  the 
men  to  the  same  place.  Nor  had  our  troubles  ended. 
When  the  men  had  raised  the  tuhhteravan  to  their  shoul- 
ders, they  disagreed  as  to  which  way  to  go,  and  then  fol- 
lowed a  war  of  words.  One  party  pulled  this  way  and 
another  party  pulled  the  other,  and  in  the  struggle  all 
sunk  into  the  mud,  upset  the  tuMtteravan,  and  broke 
a  few  more  panes  of  glass.  Then  all  swore  by  their 
prophet,  and  gesticulated  more  vehemently  than  a  stump 
orator.  But  the  Arabs  rarely  come  to  blows,  if  they 
only  have  time  to  scream  and  room  to  gesture.  I  had 
to  interfere,  and  take  direction  of  affairs,  as  neither  party 
was  disposed  to  yield  his  right  of  judgment. 

Once  out  of  the  "  Slough  of  Despond,"  we  followed 
the  ridge  of  the  hills,  aud  passed  the  first  and  only  tree 
we  had  yet  seen  in  the  open  country.  In  less  than  two 
hours  we  were  opposite  the  Zakoo  Pass,  through  which 
Xenophon  led  his  "  ten  thousand  Greeks."  We  had  fol- 
lowed him  in  his  "  Retreat,"  step  by  step,  from  the  Za- 
bates  to  the  Bumadus,  where  he  defeated  Mithridates ; 
from  the  banks  of  the  Bumadus  to  Larissa;  thence  to 
Mespila,  and  over  the  foot-hills  to  the  Kurdistan  range, 
to  the  Zakoo  Pass,  through  which  he  fought  his  way  to 
the  hio-her  fords  of  the  Tisfris.  We  here  left  the  historic 
path  to  cross  the  Tigris  at  the  Christian  village  of  Fesha-, 
poor. 

As  we  drew  nearer  to  the  hills  of  Kurdistan,  we  could 
observe  their  characteristics  more  distinctly.  Their  sides 
are  deeply  gullied,  and  resemble  the  color  of  ashes.  The 
higher  portions  are  steep  and  rugged,  and  often  covered 


408  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

with  snow.  As  we  advanced,  there  was  a  beautiful  open- 
ing to  the  west,  through  which  we  saw  the  Tigris.  On 
our  right,  and  far  away,  were  the  high  Median  mount- 
ains, whose  snowy  peaks  were  brilliant  in  the  sunlight. 
Here  and  there  were  well-cultivated  fields,  wherein  peas- 
ants w^ere  plowing  with  an  ox  and  a  donkey  yoked  to- 
gether. During  the  succeeding  hours,  we  forded  many 
I'ushing  mountain -streams,  and  for  miles  our  path  was 
a  series  of  ascents  and  descents  among  steep  hills  and 
deep  valleys.  It  was  a  relief  to  dismount  at  Mazareh,  a 
Kurdish  town  with  thatched  roofs,  and  where  the  chil- 
dren came  and  sat  down  on  the  grass  to  observe  the 
stran2:ers  lunch. 

During  the  afternoon  we  passed  many  small  farm  vil- 
lages located  on  the  hill -tops,  around  which,  and  near 
the  streams  that  dashed  down  the  ravines,  many  trees 
were  growing.  Later  in  the  day,  we  rode  through  a  suc- 
cession of  deep  valleys  and  up  rugged  hills,  and  caught 
some  pretty  landscape  views,  whose  beauty  was  height- 
ened by  sparkling  cascades.  At  3  p.m.  the  gray  hills  of 
Kurdistan  abruptly  ended,  the  north-west  end  sloping 
down  to  the  plain.  But  now  appeared  a  grander  range, 
clad  in  wintry  robes,  and  beyond  was  Mount  Ararat,  a 
high,  long,  rounded  ridge,  white  with  snow.  An  hour 
later  we  looked  down  on  the  green  velvet  banks  of  the 
Tigris,  where  stands  the  Christian  town  of  Feshapoor, 
sixty-six  miles  from  Mosul.  We  were  received  by  the 
head-man  of  the  village,  and  invited  to  occupy  the  lower 
-apartments  in  his  two-storied  stone  house.  His  resi- 
dence resembles  a  fort,  and  was  built  for  self-defense.  A 
Kurdish  chief  had  threatened  him  with  swift  destruc- 
tion, and  he  had  to  pay  a  ransom  of  twenty-five  hundred 
(h)llars.  Having  completed  his  stone  house,  with  barred 
windows  and  port-holes,  he  bids  defiance  to  the  Kurds, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  409 

and  intends  to  fight  them  from  his  strong  castle.  The 
village  is  well  located  on  the  bluffs  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Tigris,  and  on  its  western  side  is  a  rushing  mount- 
ain-stream, which  drives  a  flour-mill  and  cherishes  a  mul- 
berry grove.  There  is  a  ferry  here  over  the  Tigris,  which 
is  a  source  of  revenue  to  the  governor  of  the  town. 

Never  was  the  Sabbath  of  rest  more  welcome  to  trav- 
elers, sick  and  weary.  Happily  it  had  dawned  upon  us 
in  a  Christian  town.  The  people  of  Feshapoor  are  Chal- 
dean Christians,  and  their  better  feith  w^as  apparent  in 
their  thrift,  cleanliness,  and  intelligence.  On  the  banks 
of  the  river  they  have  a  large  stone  church,  with  broad 
aisles  and  ornamented  chancel.  On  the  walls  are  pict- 
ures of  Christ,  of  Mary,  and  of  the  apostles.  The  high 
altar  is  plain,  but  was  brilliantly  illuminated.  An  horn- 
after  sunrise  the  early  service  began.  A  hundred  men 
and  as  many  women  were  present ;  the  former  were  well 
dressed,  and  the  latter  were  richly  ornamented.  All  sat 
on  the  floor,  the  men  in  front.  As  the  worshipers  en- 
tered the  church,  they  sprinkled  holy  water  on  the 
brow,  and  made  the  sign  of  the  cross.  A  native  priest 
ofiiciated,  whose  white  beard  contrasted  with  his  brown 
visage.  He  was  robed  in  white,  and  on  the  scapular 
was  embroidered  the  Greek  cross.  Six  assistants  at- 
tended him.  The  services  consisted  of  Scripture  read- 
ings, of  psalms  chanted,  and  responses  by  the  people. 
The  host  was  elevated  amidst  the  sound  of  instrumental 
music.  Priest  and  people  smote  their  breast  three  times, 
and  all  bowed  the  knee  when  the  name  of  Christ  was 
pronounced.  Clouds  of  incense  rose  continually,  and 
surcharged  the  air  with  a  sweet  aroma.  At  the  close  of 
the  service,  the  priest  gave  his  blessing  to  an  attendant, 
who  gave  it  to  a  layman  near  the  altar,  who  in  turn 
gave  it  to  his  nearest  neighbor,  and  so  it  was  passed  to 


410  THEOyES  AND  PALACES  OF 

all  the  congregation.  During  the  celebration  of  mass,  a 
European  23riest  was  in  the  confessional,  but  only  two 
persons  were  confessed.  Originally  this  was  a  Nestorian 
church,  but  through  the  zeal  of  papal  missionaries  it  was 
transferred  to  Rome. 

Nowhere  else  in  the  East  had  I  observed  the  Sabbath 
so  strictly  kept  as  at  Feshapoor.  All  business  was  sus- 
pended, and  no  labor  was  performed.  From  sunrise  till 
noon,  the  people  attended  church.  Toward  evening 
they  gathered  on  the  house-tops  —  the  men  in  groups 
and  the  women  in  circles,  chatting  and  laughing  in  a 
gleeful  manner.  Several  of  the  ladies  of  the  place  called 
on  Mrs.  Newman,  and  gratified  their  curiosity  by  exam- 
ining her  wardrobe.  They  were  excessively  adorned  with 
silver  ornaments  and  with  moth er-of pearl  beads,  which 
the  merchants  had  brouo-ht  from  Bethlehem. 

At  six  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  at  the  river, 
ready  to  cross ;  but  the  religious  boatmen  were  in  church, 
and  could  not  be  induced  to  leave,  notwithstanding  their 
promise  of  the  previous  night.  After  an  hour  and  a 
half  they  came ;  and,  to  make  up  for  their  delay,  pro- 
posed to  crowd  into  one  boat  all  our  mules,  horses,  and 
ourselves.  They,  however,  heeded  our  protest ;  and,  hav- 
ing appropriated  one  boat  to  ourselves,  we  were  soon  in 
the  strong  and  rapid  current  of  the  Tigris.  It  was  ever 
a  subject  of  devout  thanksgiving  to  God  when  we  had 
safely  crossed  to  the  other  side.  The  boat  returned  for 
the  horses  and  mules,  and  it  was  9  a.m.  before  all  was 
ready  for  a  start.  Had  we  been  Catholics,  we  might 
have  had  an  earlier  departure ;  but  Rome  has  made  big- 
ots of  these  simple-minded  people,  and  taught  them  to 
hate  Protestants. 

As  we  were  not  on  the  post-route,  and  as  Turkish  sol- 
diers are  not  allowed  to   escort  travelers  on  any  other 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  411 

road,  we  were  compelled  to  pay  one  liiiiidred  piastres  for 
two  Christian  soldiers  of  Fesbapoor  to  guide  us  on  our 
way.  They  were  father  and  son.  The  former  was  an 
old  man,  who  had  crossed  the  plains  many  times,  but 
was  now  of  little  use  but  as  a  mentor  to  his  son,  who 
was  well  mounted,  and  bore  a  spear  twenty  feet  long. 
The  old  man's  mare  was  as  decrepit  as  himself,  and  it 
was  a  question  whether  either  could  endure  to  the  end. 
We  soon  entered  the  hills,  and  passed  many  small  vil- 
lages and  Arab  encampments  surrounded  with  herds 
and  flocks.  In  an  hour  we  turned  westward,  and  rode 
through  green  valleys  and  over  green  hills.  The  hours 
passed  in  solitude,  during  which  we  met  no  one  on  the 
road,  nor  saw  a  human  abode.  The  silence  of  an  unin- 
habited region  reigned  unbroken.  But  beauty  held 
sway  in  numberless  flowers  of  every  hue,  and  in  mur- 
muring brooks  of  delicious  water.  Occasionally  we  saw 
a  deserted  village,  and  after  a  ride  of  four  hours  we 
lunched  near  a  pretty  stream  not  far  from  a  ruined 
town.  At  5  P.M.  we  reached  Ghoonduck,  on  a  steep 
mound,  containing  two  houses  and  twelve  persons,  who 
lived  amidst  a  deserted  villa2:e.  The  old  man  and  his 
wife  were  venerable  and  pleasant,  and  their  home  was 
extremely  humble.  Declining  to  sleep  in  their  hut,  we 
spread  our  blankets  on  Jacob's  bed,  and  slept  sweetly 
under  the  starry  sky. 

The  sun  rose  on  a  glorious  plain  to  the  south-west,  and 
caused  the  white  crest  of  Ararat  to  blush  in  his  earliest 
light.  Our  path  was  over  rough  hills  and  through  stony 
valleys.  Here  and  there  was  a  cluster  of  huts,  near  rich 
pasture -fields,  wherein  were  large -flocks.  At  noon  we 
halted  at  Deroonah,  a  post-station,  but  a  miserable  town. 
Our  Christian  soldiers  left  us  here,  and  in  their  stead  we 
obtained  one  soldier,  who  proved  to  be  an  excellent  man. 


412  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

He  was  a  Circassian,  and,  with  thousands  of  his  coun- 
trymen, had  been  conscripted  for  the  Turkish  army  for  a 
period  of  four  years.  He  wore  a  long  surtout  and  a  high 
fur  cap.  His  complexion  was  bright  and  his  features 
were  regular.  He  was  a  splendid  horseman  and  an  ex- 
cellent sfuide.  He  informed  us  that  the  Sultan  had 
forced  a  large  number  of  his  people  to  emigrate  to  this 
section  of  Mesopotamia,  to  be  a  barrier  against  the 
Arabs;  but  the  plan  had  failed,  as  many  of  the  emi- 
o-rants  had  died. 

We  were  now  in  Mesopotamia,  vast,  rich,  and  beau- 
tiful. Extending  from  the  fountains  of  the  Khabour 
about  Mardeen  and  Nisibeen  to  Birijik,  on  the  Euphra- 
tes, and  thence  southward,  between  the  Euphrates  and 
Tigris,  to  Bagdad,  it  was  divided  into  Upper  and  Lower 
Mesopotamia.  Since  we  crossed  the  Tigris  at  Feshapoor, 
our  route  lay  through  Upper  Mesopotamia,  whose  fertil- 
ity is  inexhaustible,  and  whose  population  is  dense  and 
thrifty.  From  the  time  we  left  Deroonah,  we  had  passed 
on  an  average  a  town  an  hour,  and  nowhere  else  had  we 
seen  such  apparent  prosperity.  The  pastures  were  rich, 
the  flocks  were  large  and  numerous,  wheat  and  barley 
were  abundant,  the  streams  and  fountains  were  frequent, 
and  the  water  was  clear  and  delicious. 

As  the  shepherds  were  folding  their  flocks,  and  after  a 
ride  of  eleven  hours,  we  entered  the  Christian  village  of 
Uznaoor.  The  inhabitants  are  Jacobite  Christians,  who 
have  not  bowed  the  knee  to  Rome,  and  on  the  hill  in  the 
rear  of  the  town  is  their  little  church.  We  estimated 
the  population  at  five  hundred,  and  were  impressed  with 
the  apparent  difference  between  a  Christian  and  a  Mo- 
hammedan village.  In  their  apparel,  their  intelligence, 
their  cheerfulness,  their  thrift,  their  freedom,  their  archi- 
tecture, and  comfortable  style  of  living,  the  Christians  are 


CHRISTIAN   GIKLS   OF   UZNAOOR. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  415 

« 

the  superiors  of  their  Moslem  neighbors.  The  head-man 
of  Uznaoor  was  a  splendid  specimen  of  physical  man- 
hood, and  was  hospitable  as  he  was  polite.  His  beauti- 
ful daughter,  a  girl  of  fourteen,  was  attractively  attired. 
Her  attire  consisted  of  a  pair  of  shalivcu\  and  a  red  robe 
resembling  a  surplice,  the  long  sleeves  whereof  were  tied 
too-ether  and  thrown  behind  the  shoulders,  and  secured 
to  the  waist  by  a  narrow  girdle  with  two  large  ornament- 
al silver  clasps.  Her  head-dress  was  like  an  archer's  hel- 
met, made  of  a  pointed  cap,  and  covered  with  bright  sil- 
ver coins,  laid  on  like  scales,  and  over  it  was  thrown  a 
veil  of  thin  gauze.  The  helmet  weighed  three  pounds, 
and  was  the  maiden's  dower.  Nearly  all  the  w^omen  of 
the  place  wore  a  similar  head-ornament,  but  not  half  so 
costly. 

At  a  trifling  expense,  we  were  furnished  with  fresh- 
baked  "  barley  loaves,"  with  sweet  and  sour  milk,  with 
poultry  and  eggs,  with  apricots  and  pomegranates.  As 
we  pi'eferred  to  spread  our  blankets  on  the  high  veran- 
da rather  than  to  slee]:)  even  in  a  Christian  Oriental's 
house,  we  passed  the  night  unmolested  either  by  vora- 
cious animals  or  the  smoke  of  the  Eastern  pipe.  During 
the  evening  the  neighbors  gathered  in  the  large  room  to 
smoke  and  talk  and  laugh.  Near  ns  two  women  were 
churning  in  a  very  primitive  style.  They  had  erected 
three  poles,  and  from  the  centre  of  the  triangle  they  had 
suspended  a  goat's  skin  filled  with  milk.  One  woman 
took  hold  of  the  head,  and  the  other  woman  took  hold 
of  the  tail,  and  churned  away  to  the  music  of  some  stir- 
ring chant. 

The  da^vn  was  deliglitful,  and  at  6  a.m.  we  were  in 
the  saddle.  As  we  passed  through  the  thrifty  tow^n, 
women  were  spinning  the  finest  wool,  and  men  were 
weaving  cotton  cloth.      It  was  in  this  same  land  that 


416  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

ft 

Job  wrote  those  plaintive  words :  "  My  days  are  swifter 
than  a  weaver's  shuttle."  Turning  to  the  north-west,  our 
path  lay  over  a  beautiful  j^lain  bounded  on  the  north 
and  south  by  picturesque  mountains.  The  noble  plain 
is  dotted  with  mounds,  which  may  be  artificial,  having 
been  erected  by  the  Persian  Fire- worshipers,  and  where- 
on they  built  their  altars ;  but,  whether  natural  or  artifi- 
cial, these  mounds  are  peculiar  to  this  plain.  Either  at 
the  base  or  on  the  summit  of  each  mound  is  a  village, 
and  during  a  ride  of  a  few  hours  we  counted  not  fewer 
than  twenty  towns,  and  all  within  sight  of  each  other. 
Three  years  ago,  most  of  these  villages  were  destroyed 
by  the  Mohammedan  Arabs,  who  hate  the  Christians; 
but  since  then  the  Turkish  Government  ordered  the  re- 
building of  the  houses,  which  are  again  occupied  by 
those  who  had  been  driven  from  their  homes. 

In  six  hours  from  Uznaoor,  we  entered  the  ancient 
city  of  Nisibeen,  around  which  cluster  so  many  historic 
associations.  In  strength  and  grandeur  it  was  the  fore- 
most city  of  the  Romans  in  all  their  Eastern  empire.  To 
capture  it,  the  Persian  em2:)eror  Shapoor  besieged  it 
thrice  between  a.d.  338  and  a.d.  350 ;  but  each  time  he 
failed  in  the  attempt.  Thirteen  years  later,  and  after  the 
retreat  and  death  of  the  Emperor  Julian,  it  was  surren- 
dered by  the  feeble  Jovian,  and  was  never  retaken  by  the 
Romans.  Around  its  walls  thousands  have  fallen  in  the 
bloody  struggle,  and  its  ruins  of  to-day  are  the  mournful 
memorials  of  defeated  armies.  Two  marble  columns,  an 
ancient  bridge,  a  portion  of  a  noble  church,  are  all  that 
remain  of  its  former  mao;nificence.  Within  the  church  is 
a  marble  sarcophagus,  said  to  have  contained  the  ashes  of 
Saint  James,  one  of  the  Fathers,  who  was  present  at  the 
Council  of  Nice,  and  who  witnessed  the  third  and  mem- 
orable siege  of  the  city  by  the  Emperor  Shapoor.     But 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


417 


GKEKK   A^D    KUMAN    liEMAlAS   AT   NISIBEEN. 

it  is  now  an  empty  tomb.  It  was  ruthlessly  opened  and 
partly  destroyed  by  the  conquerors,  who  had  hoped  to 
find  therein  buried  treasure. 

There  is,  however,  another  and  higher  historic  inter- 
est connected  with  this  once  renowned  city  of  the  East. 
For  centuries  it  was  the  ecclesiastical  metropolis  of  the 
Nestorians,  whose  missions  extended  from  the  Gulf  of 
Persia  to  the  Caspian  Sea,  and  from  Jerusalem  to  the  pal- 
aces of  Ecbatana.  Here  were  their  grandest  churches  ; 
here  flourished  their  schools  of  learning ;  and  from  here 
went  forth  their  missionaries  to  the  pepper-coast  of  Mal- 
abar, to  the  spice- groves  of  Ceylon,  and  to  the  walled 
cities  of  China.  But  all  now  is  changed.  There  is 
neither  church  nor  college  within  the  precincts  of  the 
town.  Of  the  three  hundred  families  of  Nisibeen,  only 
twelve   are  Christian,  of  which   half  are  Jacobites  and 

27 


418  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

half  are  Armenians,  without  a  church  and  without  a 
priest.  But  while  they  have  no  memorial  in  this  their 
former  centre  of  power,  yet  elsewhere  in  the  East  the 
Nestorians  claim  to  have  7  metropolitans,  7  biehops,  188 
priests,  249  churches,  and  11,378  families,  or  a  total  com- 
munity of  70,000  souls. 

Few  cities  in  Mesopotamia  can  boast  a  situation  more 
beautiful  than  that  of  Nisibeen.  The  ancient  Mygdo- 
nius,  now  the  Jaghjagha  of  the  Arabs,  flows  clear  and 
rapidly  between  verdant  banks.  Across  the  river  is  a 
stone  bridge  supported  by  twelve  arches.  Above  the 
town  towers  the  tall  and  graceful  minaret  of  the  mosque, 
and  toward  the  west  is  the  residence  of  the  pasha,  and 
near  it  a  large  structure  used  as  a  military  station.  The 
bazaars  are  considerable,  and  furnished  us  with  all  nec- 
essary supplies.  We  lunched  on  the  grassy  banks  of  the 
running  w^aters,  and,  while  there,  received  a  call  from  the 
military  officer  in  command.  He  was  dressed  like  a  Eu- 
ropean, except  his  red  fez  cap.  He  was  polite  and  frank, 
and  requested  us  to  write  him  from  Iskenderoon  as  to 
the  conduct  of  the  soldiers  who  were  our  escort.  The 
pretty  lawns  along  the  river  are  the  pleasure-grounds  of 
the  villagers,  and  many  richly  attii'ed  ladies  were  linger- 
ing there  with  their  children  and  domestics,  enjoying  the 
music  of  the  running  waters. 

After  a  ride  of  three  hours,  through  a  rich  farming  re- 
gion, we  halted  for  the  night  at  the  miserable  Moham- 
medan village  of  Kasr-el-Buderveel.  It  was  one  of  the 
outposts  of  the  Roman  empire  in  the  East,  and  there 
still  remain  two  square  towers,  strongly  built  of  large 
white  stones,  and  also  sections  of  the  wall  which  inclosed 
the  Roman  barracks.  It  was  a  relief  to  leave  a  place  so 
desolate  as  that,  and  in  the  early  dawn  we  were  again 
on  the  road.     The  tedium  of  the  journey  was  relieved 


BABYLON'  AND  NINEVEH.  419 

by  the  coining  of  the  Turkish  post.  The  mail-bags  were 
thrown  across  the  backs  of  five  mules  which  were  in 
front,  and  behind  them  were  the  mail -agent,  three  sol- 
diers, and  two  attendants,  mounted  on  horses,  and  who 
urged  on  the  mules  to  the  top  of  their  speed. 

During  the  morning  we  passed  the  most  remarkable 
of  all  the  remains  of  the  Roman  empire  in  Mesopota- 
mia. On  our  right  was  the  famous  "  Dara  in  the  Mount- 
ains," which  was  built  by  Anastasius,  but  improved  and 
strengthened  by  the  Emperor  Justinian.  Its  double 
walls,  its  triple  ditches,  its  strong  towers,  its  immense 
reservoirs,  its  palace,  combined  to  make  it  a  monument 
of  strength  and  beauty.  It  was  the  pride  of  the  Romans 
and  the  dread  of  the  Persians.  In  the  year  529,  it  was 
defended  by  twenty-five  thousand  Romans  under  Beli- 
sarius,who  was  attacked  by  forty  thousand  Persians.  The 
Romans  maintained  their  position,  and  the  besiegers  re- 
tired, leaving  eight  thousand  dead  upon  the  field  of  bat- 
tle. At  a  later  period  the  triumphant  Chosroes  suc- 
ceeded in  reducing  this  stronghold  after  it  had  resisted 
the  flower  of  his  army  during  a  siege  of  five  months. 
Although  now  a  ruin,  yet  in  its  ruins  Dara  is  great.  Its 
remains  represent  the  military  architecture  of  the  Ro- 
mans, and  are  a  monument  of  their  wealth  and  power. 
The  broken  arch,  the  prostrate  column,  the  fallen  wall, 
the  empty  tanks,  the  ruined  palace,  the  two  hundred  or- 
namented tombs,  proclaim  a  history  as  eloquent  as  it  is 
sad.  And  where  once  the  Roman  Eagles  triumphed, 
and  the  "standard  of  Persia"  was  raised  on  high,  there 
are  now  fewer  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  native  fami- 
lies, whose  huts  stand  amidst  the  ruins  of  ancient  Dara. 

As  we  advanced,  Jebel  Judi  was  seen  on  our  right — a 
vast,  elongated,  rounded  mountain,  white  with  snow  from 
base  to  summit.     It  is  the  Mesopotamian  Ararat,  the  ri- 


420  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

val  of  the  Ararat  in  Armenia.  Both  Christians  and  Mos- 
lems believe  that  it  is  the  mountain  whereon  the  ark 
rested  after  the  Deluge ;  and  near  it  is  a  village  called 
the  "  Market  of  the  Eight,"  referring  to  the  number  of 
Noah's  family  who  were  preserved  from  the  Flood.  This 
tradition  is  sustained  by  the  local  topography,  by  the 
early  settlement  of  Noah's  descendants  in  Low^er  Meso- 
potamia, and  is  not  contradicted  by  any  historic  fticts  we 
now  possess.  On  our  left  was  the  large  town  of  Ar- 
moodah,  and  a  few  miles  beyond  is  the  most  delicious 
spring  in  Asia.  Around  its  crystal  waters  we  rested, 
and  from  the  bubbling  spring  we  drank,  and  sung,  and 
laughed,  and  thanked  the  Creator  for  "  pure  cold  water." 
Again  in  motion,  we  passed  men  on  donkeys  and  women 
on  camels.  Away  to  the  north-east  was  the  Mardeen  Gap, 
through  which  the  road  passes  to  Diarbekir.  Around 
us  were  large  and  splendid  farms,  and  rich  pasture-lands. 
Just  beyond  the  Mohammedan  town  of  Harreen  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  rivers  in  the  world.  Clear,  deep, 
and  rapid,  it  was  the  image  of  the  "  River  of  Life."  An 
hour  farther  on,  we  came  to  the  Christian  village  of  Goe- 
ley,  which  contains  a  brick- yard,  and  one  hundred  and 
seventy  houses.  The  head-man  of  the  place  gave  us  his 
new  residence,  wherein  we  rested  for  the  night,  and  most 
of  the  next  day. 

'  Mounted  on  a  mule  and  guided  by  a  peasant,  I  started 
at  an  early  hour  for  Mardeen,  the  Mount  Masius  of  tlie 
ancients.  It  required  an  hour  to  reach  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  and  then,  for  half  an  hour,  I  ascended  the  most 
crooked,  rough,  and  intolerable  road  in  Asia.  The  zig- 
zag path  enters  a  narrow  ravine,  and  thence  turns  to  ev- 
ery point  of  the  compass.  Over  ledges  of  sliarp  rocks, 
through  narrow  cuts  in  some  projecting  cliif,  along  the 
very  edge  of  the  precipice,  the  sure-footed  mule  struggled 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


421 


till  we  reached  the  summit,  two  thousand  four  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  By  the  wayside  are 
sweet  and  brackish  fountains,  wdiose  waters  are  con- 
veyed by  a  series  of  conduits  to  the  terraces,  where  the 
almond-tree  was  in  blossom,  and  where  the  vine  and  the 
fig-tree  were  putting  forth  their  tender  leaves.  On  the 
road,  I  passed  an  aged  woman,  loaded  with  fire- wood. 
She  was  small  of  stature ;  her  locks  were  gray ;  but  her 
Grecian  features  were  worthy  the  pencil  of  an  Apelles. 


CITY   OF   MARDEEN. 


As  I  reached  the  summit,  the  American  College  bell  rang 
merrily  in  the  clear  mountain  air,  calling  the  students  to 
their  classes;  and  in  honor  of  my  visit,  the  flag  of  our 
country  was  unfurled  to  the  bi-eeze  on  Mount  Masius. 
The  Rev.  Doctor  Andrus  and  Miss  Parmley  gave  me  a 
cordial  greeting,  and  welcomed  me  to  their  mission.  It 
^vas  refreshing  to  be  in  a  Chi'istian  home  once  more,  and 
again  look  upon  the  faces  of  my  countrymen.     The  mis- 


422  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

sion  property  is  well  located,  and  consists  of  four  large 
buildings,  used  for  residence  and  school  purposes.  Un- 
der the  faithful  labors  of  the  missionaries,  the  mission 
has  proved  a  success.  There  is  a  church  of  fifty  mem- 
bers, and  an  average  congregation  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  persons,  in  charge  of  a  native  pastor.  Through 
the  zeal  of  a  Bible  reader,  one  hundred  and  fifty  native 
women  have  been  induced  to  study  the  Scriptures.  There 
are  two  training  schools — one  for  the  education  of  can- 
didates for  the  ministry,  and  the  other  for  the  educa- 
tion of  their  wives.  There  were  ten  students  in  attend- 
ance, who  seemed  to  be  intelligent  and  earnest  men. 
The  institution  is  furnished  with  a  philosophical  and 
chemical  apparatus  and  a  superior  telescope.  In  the  fe- 
male department  there  were  eleven  girls  and  eight  wom- 
en, who  had  made  commendable  proficiency  under  the 
care  of  Miss  Parmley.  From  the  theological  department 
several  efiicient  native  pastors  have  gone  forth  to  teach 
their  countrymen  the  way  of  life. 

Mardeen  has  a  population  of  twenty  thousand,  of 
whom  one-half  are  Moslems,  and  the  other  half  are  Chal- 
dean, Jacobite,  Papal  Syrian,  and  Papal  Armenian  Chris- 
tians, and  a  few  Jews.  The  principal  streets  are  so  many 
terraces  cut  in  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  rise  one 
above  the  other;  and  the  small  streets  which  run  at 
right  angles  to  the  former  are  a  series  of  steps  in  the 
native  rock.  The  buildings  are  of  stone,  and,  being  the 
color  of  the  gray  rocks,  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  them 
at  any  considerable  distance  from  the  place.  Around 
the  town  is  a  Avail  two  miles  in  circuit.  On  the  highest 
peak  is  the  ruin  of  an  old  Roman  castle,  now  a  military 
station.  The  view  from  the  citadel  is  vast  and  com- 
manding. 

The  Moslems  are  in  power,  and  have  eight  mosques. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  428 

They  are  fanatical  in  the  extreme,  and  have  the  well- 
earned  reputation  of  being  the  greatest  quarrelers  in 
Mesopotamia.  Their  Christian  neighbors  are  more  pa- 
cific, but  not  less  bigoted.  Mardeen  is  a  religious  centre. 
It  is  the  head -quarters  of  the  Syrian  Papal  patriarch; 
the  residence  of  the  Papal  Armenian  bishop;  the  home 
of  the  Chaldean  bishop,  and  the  stronghold  of  the  Jaco- 
bite Christians.  To  the  south  of  the  town,  and  amidst 
scenery  wild  and  grand,  is  the  Yellow  Monastery  of  the 
Jacobites.  The  structure  is  plain  and  roomy,  but  gloomy 
as  a  prison.  The  adjoining  church  is  small  and  filthy, 
and  in  a  side  apartment  are  the  tombs  of  the  patriarchs 
and  bishops.  In  the  library  is  a  Syriac  copy  of  the  Gos- 
pels, as  old  as  the  year  a.d.  1150.  The  supreme  spirit 
of  the  monastery  is  the  patriarch,  who  is  not  allowed  to 
eat  flesh,  drink  wine,  use  tobacco,  nor  have  a  wife.  The 
priests  are  allowed  the  last-named  luxury,  and  their  fam- 
ilies reside  with  them  in  the  dark  monastic  halls. 

That  night  we  slept  at  Tel-Ermine,  twelve  miles  fi'om 
Mardeen.  It  is  a  small  Jacobite  village  near  the  ruins 
of  a  large  Mohammedan  town,  whose  ruined  mosque  and 
two  square  minarets  are  seen  from  afar.  It  is  located 
at  the  base  of  one  of  the  many  mounds  which  dot  this 
great  plain.  Near  it  is  a  stream  of  crystal  water,  wherein 
we  enjoyed  a  delightful  bath.  Although  these  villages 
are  so  near  each  other,  yet  the  people  of  each  speak  a 
different  language,  which  made  it  probable  that  we  were 
near  the  place  where  the  "  Lord  did  confound  the  lan- 
guage of  all  the  earth."  We  were  entertained  by  a  fam- 
ily, superior  in  comforts,  cleanliness,  and  politeness.  In 
the  evening  we  were  joined  by  Doctor  Andrus  and  Miss 
Parmley  from  Mardeen,  and  by  Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bell, 
and  Miss  Sears,  just  from  America,  who  were  to  devote 
themselves  to  the  work  of  missions.     It  was  a  joyous 


424  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

meeting,  and  the  evening  was  passed  in  pleasant  conver- 
sation, in  hymns  of  praise,  and  in  earnest  prayers.  After 
their  long  and  fatiguing  overland  journey,  the  new  mis- 
sionaries were  cheerful  and  hopeful.  The  ladies  espe- 
cially had  endured  much  to  reach  their  field  of  labor, 
and  were  not  unmindful  of  the  toil  and  self  denial  be- 
fore them.  The  Master  had  demanded  much  of  them, 
but  he  had  highly  honored  them  in  calling  them  to  his 
work,  and  their  future  reward  will  be  great. 

In  the  gray  of  the  morning  we  were  in  the  saddle, 
and  for  hours  rode  through  rich  meadow-lauds  without 
a  flock  or  a  herd.  Near  Meshkoke  the  ground  is  cov- 
ered with  volcanic  rocks,  or  perhaps  cinders  from  another 
planet.  At  5  p.m.  we  reached  Hellalu,  and  pitched  our 
tent  on  the  grassy  banks  of  a  flowing  stream.  Near  us 
were  the  tents  of  Kurdish  shepherds,  fj'om  whom  we 
purchased  milk,  eggs,  and  poultry.  They  were  gayly 
dressed,  and  wore  their  hair  long  and  flowing. 

The  rain-clouds,  which  had  threatened  us  all  the 
night,  were  driven  before  a  north-west  wind,  and  the 
Sabbath  dawned  in  beauty  upon  earth  and  sky.  The 
sweet  rest  of  the  holy  day  was  thrice  welcome  to  the 
weary  travelers,  whose  ears  were  banqueted  by  the  mu- 
sic of  running  waters,  whose  senses  were  perfumed  with 
the  odor  of  the  lovely  flowers,  whose  vision  was  en- 
tranced by  the  glorious  landscape  of  snow-capped  mount- 
ains, of  far-extending  valleys,  and  of  a  sky  as  soft  and 
pure  as  that  of  Eden.  The  pleasui'es  of  the  hour  were 
interrupted  by  the  coming  of  a  l)and  of  wandering  mu- 
sicians, who  belonged  to  the  sect  of  Devil -worshipers. 
Each  had  a  donkey,  and  they  traveled  from  place  to 
place  in  quest  of  a  few  piastres.  They  approached  our 
tent,  and  played,  and  danced,  and  begged.  Their  music 
was  as  simple  in  composition  as  it  was  rude  in  execution, 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  425 

and  we  gladly  gave  tbera  a  few  coins  as  the  price  of 
their  departure. 

As  the  sun  was  declining,  we  crossed  the  Hellalu 
River,  and  rode  over  the  hills  to  Deda,  five  miles  be- 
yond. In  passing,  a  peasant  w^oman,  loaded  with  fire- 
wood, looked  inquiringly  upon  our  "  elect  lady,"  and 
tartly  asked,  "  Why  does  she  ride  in  a  tuhliteravan,  and 
I  go  on  foot  with  this  load  on  my  back  V  It  was  in 
substance  the  old  question  which  has  agitated  humanity 
from  the  beginning,  and  which  has  never  been  satisfac- 
torily answered.  On  the  hills  were  many  encampments 
of  shepherds,  and  also  of  muleteers  whose  beasts  were 
bearing  grain  to  the  Mediterranean.  On  our  left  was 
the  small  tent  village  of  Deda,  and  near  it  an  octagonal 
tomb  of  some  Moslem  saint,  much  revered  by  the  faith- 
ful. The  Deda  river  is  broad  and  deep,  and  flows 
through  a  glen  of  limestone  rock,  bold  and  rugged.  The 
steep  sides  of  the  glen  were  as  a  vast  wall,  fringed  with 
a  few  young  pines.  The  shades  of  the  evening  rendered 
the  deep  chasin  more  gloomy,  and  we  paused  to  enjoy 
the  solemnity  of  the  hour.  Our  Circassian  soldier  at- 
tempted to  ford  the  river,  but  found  the  water  above 
his  horse's  neck.  Lower  down  are  the  five  remaining 
piers  of  an  old  Roman  bridge,  and  there  we  successfully 
crossed.  Ascending  the  hill  beyond,  we  encamped  for 
the  night.  It  w^as  a  bold  venture,  and  so  it  proved.  At 
one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  cry  of  "Robber!  Rob- 
ber!" resounded  through  our  camp.  In  that  dread  hour 
of  the  night,  when  weary  men  sleep  most  soundly,  some 
Kurdish  rol)bers  had  forded  the  stream,  and  had  crept 
stealthily  up  the  slope  wdiere  our  animals  were  tethered. 
Jebarah  first  discovered  the  approaching  thief,  and  gave 
the  alarm.  Shots  were  exchanged  in  quick  succession ; 
and  in  the  excitement  our  servant  rushed  into  our  tent, 


426  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

and  shouted,  "Shall  I  shoot  one?"  "No,  you  must  not 
kill  any  one."  "  But  if  I  shoot  one,  all  will  run."  What 
the  honest  fellow  meant  was,  to  discharge  one  barrel  of 
the  revolver.  When  his  meaning  was  cleai'ly  compre- 
hended, permission  was  given,  and  he  blazed  away  in  a 
most  soldierly  manner.  The  robbers  had  failed  to  sur- 
prise us,  and,  having  been  detected,  they  were  content 
to  give  us  a  parting  shot,  which  was  returned  with  in- 
terest. 

We  waited  patiently  for  the  morning,  and,  "  while  it 
was  yet  dark,"  we  started  across  a  vast  and  rich  meadow. 
On  our  left  was  a  solitary  tree,  to  be  known  hereafter  as 
"The  Kobber's  Shrub."  There  were  many  streams  to 
ford,  the  broadest  and  deepest  of  which  was  the  beauti- 
ful Bussameer.  At  night  we  halted  beside  the  deeper, 
broader  waters  of  the  Oslonchi,  or  the  "  Lion  Water." 
Here  is  an  immense  limestone  glen,  the  sides  of  which 
are  alternately  concave  and  convex.  The  deep  chasm 
curves  in  all  directions,  now  almost  in  parallel  lines, 
again  in  a  majestic  sweep.  In  the  sides  of  tlie  glen  are 
immense  caves,  wherein  one  hundred  persons  could  lodge, 
and  wherein  travelers  often  sleep.  This  deep  stream  is 
fed  by  the  rains  and  the  melted  snow  on  the  Taurus 
range. 

On  the  west  bank  of  the  glen  we  encamped,  and  list- 
ened to  the  music  of  the  rapids.  As  I  stood  on  the  verge 
of  this  great  chasm,  one  hundred  horses,  mules,  and  don- 
keys came  down  the  opposite  side,  with  bells  on  their 
nose,  bells  on  their  neck,  bells  on  their  breast,  bells  be- 
hind, and  bells  before,  which  tinkled  on  the  evening  air. 
The  animals  were  loaded  with  wheat  for  the  Mediterra- 
nean, where  it  was  in  great  demand.  It  is  a  slow  method 
of  transportation,  as  they  travel  but  four  hours  a  day,  or 
twelve  miles.     The  custom  is  to  travel  two  hours  and 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH.  427 

rest  four  hours,  so  that  the  whole  distance  is  equally  di- 
vided between  the  mornino;  and  the  afternoon. 

At  5  A.M.  the  tents  were  struck,  the  animals  loaded, 
and  the  caravan  was  in  motion.  Then  came  the  sound 
of  bells,  from  the  smallest  sleigh-bell  to  the  largest  cow- 
bell. Poe  should  have  heard  those  bells  and  added  an- 
other stanza.  Inspired  by  the  music  of  the  bells,  we 
joined  the  caravan.  In  an  hour  we  came  to  a  Roman 
reservoir,  fifteen  feet  wide  and  sixty  feet  long,  and  well 
preserved.  During  four  mortal  hours  thereafter,  we  trav- 
eled through  a  succession  of  interlaced  limestone  hills, 
rocky  and  barren.  In  some  places  the  deep  glen  was 
not  twenty  feet  wide,  while  on  either  side,  like  cyclopean 
walls,  the  rocks  rose  above  us  one  thousand  feet  perpen- 
dicularly. At  times  we  seemed  completely  shut  in,  and 
our  only  outlook  was  up  to  the  clear  blue  sky.  There 
was  a  rugged  grandeur  in  the  scene,  and  the  silence  was 
impressive.  It  was  ours  also  to  know  by  experience 
what  is  meant  by  a  "  dry  and  thirsty  land  where  no 
water  is."  Faint  and  weary,  we  would  have  rested  in 
the  "  shadow  of  a  great  rock :"  but  there  was  no  water 
for  man  or  beast.  We  stopped  from  sheer  exhaustion. 
There  was  but  one  small  jug  of  water,  while  seven  per- 
sons and  seven  animals  were  sorely  athirst.  A  passing 
traveler  informed  us  of  water  half  a  mile  beyond.  All 
hastened  to  the  spot,  where  we  found  a  pond  of  muddy 
rain-water,  but  of  which  all  were  glad  to  drink.  Five 
miles  farther  on  were  the  ruins  of  a  Mohammedan  khan, 
and  near  it  was  another  Roman  reservoir  half  full  of 
impure  rain-water.  Around  it  the  shepherds  gathered 
with  their  scanty  flocks.  As  we  advanced  through  the 
glen,  we  observed  the  remains  of  a  Roman  road  paved 
with  round  stones,  and  flanked  with  well-dressed  blocks 
of  limestone.      Other   reservoirs  were  passed,  some  in 


428  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

ruins,  some  in  good  condition.  In  the  days  of  the  em- 
pire, this  was  one  of  the  military  roads  of  the  Romans, 
who  made  ample  provision  to  supply  their  armies  and 
caravans  with  water. 

At  length  we  emerged  from  the  "  valley  of  the  shadow 
of  death,"  to  traverse  "  wide  extended  plains,"  where  the 
fields  Avei'e  green  with  grass  and  grain,  and  whereon 
murmured  a  hundred  rivulets.  It  was  here  we  witness- 
ed the  sport  of  the  natives.  To  relieve  the  tedium  of 
the  journey,  the  muleteers  of  a  large  caravan  threw  their 
sticks  high  in  the  air,  each  attempting  to  hit  the  first 
one  thrown ;  and  when  done,  it  was  the  signal  of  a  wild 
shout.  After  having  been  in  the  saddle  thirteen  hours, 
we  halted  at  Tel-el-Merdge,  near  a  pretty  stream,  where 
we  pitched  our  tent,  and  were  soon  fast  asleep. 

The  rainless  weather  continued.  The  dawn  was  cloud- 
less. A  ride  of  half  an  hour  brought  us  to  Jellab,  a 
charming  spot.  On  either  bank  of  the  river  are  the 
cottages  of  the  Syrian  Christians,  around  which  the  apri- 
cot was  in  blossom,  and  near  which  were  long  avenues 
of  young  poplars.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the 
land  was  in  a  state  of  cultivation.  An  hour  from  Jellab, 
and  beautiful  Orftih  was  in  view.  The  approach  there- 
to was  singularly  picturesque.  The  intervening  space 
of  twelve  miles  was  rich  in  the  variety  of  its  landscape. 
The  young  grain  of  spring,  the  flowers  of  the  field,  the 
windino;  stream  throuo-h  m-assv  banks,  the  distant  mount- 
ains,  the  city  on  the  hills,  with  dome  and  minaret  and 
castellated  towers  looming  up  from  out  groves  of  the 
apricot,  the  fig,  and  the  pomegranate,  with,  here  and  there, 
the  dark  and  graceful  cypress,  contrasting  with  the  red 
tower  and  white  minaret,  delighted  the  eye  and  anima- 
ted the  soul.  A  broad  mountain-stream  flows  alono;  the 
base  of  the  hills,  and  is  spanned  by  a  well-constructed 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


429 


CITY   OP   ORFAH. 


stone  bridge.  We  preferred  to  ford  the  stream,  and  fol- 
low the  wall  to  the  north-east  gate,  where  we  encamped. 
The  people  gathered  in  crowds  to  see  the  strangers,  nor 
were  tlie  veiled  women  the  least  curious  to  see  us.  We 
were  courteously  received  and  entertained  by  the  Kev. 
Mr.  Hagap  Aboohagatian,  of  the  American  mission.  He 
was  educated  in  Germany,  and  is  reputed  a  good  scholar. 
The  mission  premises  are  admirably  located  on  the  hill- 
side, and  the  church  is  spacious  and  accessible.  There 
is  a  membership  of  one  hundred  and  fifty,  and  a  congre- 
gation of  seven  hundred.  A  large  school  is  supported 
by  the  church  and  community.  We  occupied  the  apart- 
ments wherein  the  American  missionaries  reside,  when 


430  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

ill  town ;  and  here  we  rested  for  a  day  and  a  niglit,  and 
thanked  God  for  a  Christian  bed. 

For  beauty  of  situation  and  for  historical  associations, 
Orfah  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  cities  of  Mesopota- 
mia. It  rivals  Damascus  in  garden  scenes  and  in  archi- 
tectural ornamentation.  From  the  plain  the  town  rises 
in  terraces  up  the  gentle  slope  of  the  mountains  on  the 
west,  surrounded  with  gardens  which  cover  an  area  of 
ten  miles  beyond  the  walls  on  the  east  and  south-east. 
Through  the  city  flows  the  pretty  Kara  Kozoon,  w^hich 
is  spanned  by  three  bridges,  and  which  runs  through  the 
gardens  to  the  open  country  beyond.  The  city  walls 
are  high  and  penetrated  by  three  imposing  gates.  The 
streets  are  narrow  but  clean,  and  paved  on  either  side, 
with  a  causeway  for  pedestrians.  The  buildings  are  con- 
structed of  limestone,  and  not  a  few  are  substantial  and 
ornamental.  The  bazaars  are  tastefully  arranged,  and 
are  well  supplied  with  native  and  foreign  goods.  The 
manufactures  of  India,  Persia,  Cashmere,  and  Europe  are 
displayed  for  sale.  The  domestic  articles  are  cotton  and 
woolen  cloths,  which  are  purchased  by  the  poor.  In  the 
numerous  coflee-houses  the  traveler  is  served  with  iced 
milk,  sherbets  of  honey,  cinnamon-water,  and  a  variety 
of  rich  perfumes.  In  the  markets  may  be  had  the  deli- 
cious white  mulberry,  the  apricot,  the  quince,  the  fig,  the 
grape,  the  pomegranate,  and  the  pistachio-nut,  together 
with  oranges,  lemons,  and  melons. 

The  population  of  Orfah  is  about  equally  divided  into 
Moslems  and  Christians.  Of  the  fifty  thousand  people 
who  reside  within  the  walls,  some  are  Chaldeans,  some 
are  Armenians,  some  are  Aral)ians,  and  not  a  few  are 
Syrians.  They  display  toward  each  other  the  fanaticism 
peculiar  to  the  sects  in  the  East,  and  are  intolerant  one 
toward  the  other.     There  is  a  display  of  wealth  and  re- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  431 

iinement  in  the  street  apparel  of  both  men  and  women 
not  seen  in  towns  to  the  south  and  south-east.  The  av- 
erage thrift  of  the  people  is  greater  than  at  Mosul  or 
Bagdad,  and  the  standard  of  education  is  proportionably 
higher.  The  ladies  excel  in  beauty  and  in  the  richness 
of  their  ornaments,  and  delight  to  display  both  in  the 
lovely  gardens  and  on  the  shaded  terraces. 

As  a  historic  place,  Orfah  presents  many  points  of  in- 
terest. Traditions,  antiquities,  and  names  indicate  its 
great  age.  It  is,  no  doubt,  the  "  Ur  of  the  Chaldees," 
and  a  very  ancient  tradition  makes  it  identical  with  the 
"  Land  of  Uz."  Near  the  Haran  Gate  is  "  Job's  Well," 
from  which  the  patriarch  drank,  and  which  is  a  sacred 
shrine  with  the  people.  The  tradition  seems  to  be  con- 
firmed by  the  fiict  that  Job  dwelt  among  a  people  called 
Sabeans  and  Chaldeans,*  who  plundered  him  of  his  flocks 
and  herds,  and  the  descendants  of  whom  reside  here  now 
in  the  persons  of  the  Yezidis,  some  of  whose  doctrines 
and  rites  are  connected  with  Sabeanism  and  Masrianism. 
But  if  their  religious  tenets  are  not  proof  of  their  de- 
scent, their  thievish  propensities  are,  as  they  are  ready  to 
plunder  Job,  or  any  one  else  they  may  chance  to  meet. 

There  is,  however,  much  stronger  evidence  for  the  tra- 
dition that  Orfah  is  the  birthplace  of  Abraham.  It  is 
recorded  in  Genesis  that  "  Terah  took  Abram  his  son, 
and  Lot  the  son  of  Haran  his  son's  son,  and  Sarai  his 
daughter-in-law,  his  son  Abram's  wife ;  and  they  went 
forth  with  them  from  Ur  of  the  Chaldees,  to  go  into  the 
land  of  Canaan  ;  and  they  came  unto  Haran,  and  dwelt 
there.  And  the  days  of  Terah  were  two  hundred  and 
five  years :  and  Terah  died  in  Haran."f  The  site  of 
Haran  is  less  than  twenty  miles  to  the  south-east,  and 

*  Job  i.,  15-17.  t  Genesis  xi.,  31-32. 


432  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

within  its  now  ruined  walls  is  the  traditional  grave  of 
Terah,  the  father  of  Abraham.     On  the  two  hills  are  the 
remains  of  the  Eoman  castle  where  the  Parthians  de- 
feated the  Eomans,  and  where  occurred  the  death   of 
Marcus  Licinius  Crassus.    Somewhere  between  these  two 
cities  was  the  Padau-aram  where  the  beautiful  Rebekah 
lived  before  she  was  wedded  to  Isaac,  and  where  Jacob 
served  Laban,  and  received  Leah  aud  Kachel  as  his  wives. 
To  the  people  of  Orfah  the  name  of  Abraham  is  a 
household  word.     They  point  to  his  birthplace  with  ev- 
ident pride,  and  have  reared  monuments  to  his  memory. 
To  the  south-east  of  the  town,  aud  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  is  the  cave  w^herein  he  w^as  born,  and  over  it 
is  a  mosque  so  holy  that  only  Moslems  are  allowed  to  en- 
ter therein.     And  not  far  from  the  cave,  and  within  the 
most  lovely  portion  of  the  city,  is  a  pool  of  crystal  water, 
filled  with  Abraham's  fishes.      It  is  called  "  Birket- el- 
Ibrahim  el  Khaleel" — "Abraham  the  Beloved,  oi"  Friend 
of  God."      It  is  one  of  the   most  enchanting  spots  on 
earth.     The  clear  water  is  conducted  from  a  perennial 
spring  into   a    marble  basin,  three   hundred   feet  long, 
twenty  feet  wide,  and  six  feet  deep.    At  the  eastern  end, 
where  the  waters  are  allowed  to  escape,  there  is  a  rus- 
tic bridge ;  at  the  opposite  end  is  a  pretty  marl:)le  kiosk, 
from  beneath  which  the  waters  flow ;  on  the  south  side 
are  green  lawns,  and  gardens  of  flowers,  and  groves  of 
the  white  mulberry,  the   tall  and   sombre    cypress,  the 
drooping   willow,  the   bright   oleander,  the  lofty   syca- 
more, and  the  shady  fig  and  pomegranate.      From  out 
the  grove  rises  a  mosque,  and  above  the  mosque  towers 
a  graceful  minaret.    On  the  opposite  side  is  a  well-paved 
causeway  for  promenades,  whose  very  edge  is  washed  by 
the  watei's  of  the  lake.     Above  this  noble  path  is  the 
grand  facade  of  the  Mosque  of  Abraham,  Avhose  name  it 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


433 


bears.  This  mai'l)le  mosqne  is  crowned  with  three  domes 
of  equal  size,  surmounted  with  gilded  crescents,  and  a 
lofty  minaret,  springing  up  from  amidst  a  cluster  of  tall 
and  solemn  cypress-trees.  Within  the  sacred  inclosure, 
silver  lamps,  filled  with  the  choicest  olive-oil,  burn  night 
and  day  in  honor  of  the  Father  of  the  Faitliful.  The 
sylvan  lake  is  filled  with  fine  carp,  to  the  number  of  not 


Abraham's  mosque  and  pool. 

less  than  twenty  thousand.  They  are  sacredly  called 
"Abraham's  fish,"  the  descendants  of  those  cherished  by 
the  patriarch.  As  the  water  in  which  they  swim  is 
beautifully  transparent,  they  are  seen  to  good  advan- 
tage ;  and,  as  they  are  not  allowed  to  be  caught  or  iii 
any  way  molested,  they  multiply  exceedingly.  It  is 
deemed  an  act  of  piety  to  feed  them ;  it  is  considered  a 

28 


434  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

crime  to  eat  them.  To  prevent  any  person  from  catch- 
ing these  fish,  the  Moslems  have  invented  the  supersti- 
tion that  he  who  purloins  from  the  sacred  waters  will 
be  smitten  with  idiotcy.  But  the  Christians  of  Orfah 
have  such  a  reverence  for  Abraham  that  they  are  never 
so  happy  as  when  they  can  feast  on  a  dish  of  his  fish, 
cooked  with  wine-sauce,  and  eaten  as  a  royal  dainty. 

From  this  enchanted  spot,  where  turbaned  Turks  and 
veiled  women  repose  in  the  music  of  its  waters,  and  be- 
neath the  shade  of  its  trees,  we  passed  to  examine  the 
old  Roman  castle  seated  on  the  summit  of  the  adjacent 
mountain,  and  whose  walls  are  two  thousand  feet  in  ex- 
tent. In  the  outer  wall,  as  if  to  mark  the  entrance  to  a 
palace,  are  two  Corinthian  columns  crowned  with  beau- 
tiful capitals,  and  on  each  the  stork  had  built  its  nest. 
Around  the  walls  is  a  moat,  fifty  feet  deep,  cut  in  the 
solid  rock.  Within  the  walls  reside  a  few  poor  families, 
where  once  Roman  emperors  dwelt.  The  view  from  the 
castle  is  commanding  and  grand.  Far  away  on  the  plains 
were  the  groves  of  the  fig,  the  apricot,  and  the  pomegran- 
ate ;  at  our  feet  were  the  gardens  around  the  Pool  and 
Mosque  of  Abraham ;  and  above  them  rose  the  swelling 
dome,  the  slender  minaret,  the  square  red  tower  of  some 
early  Christian  church,  and  the  tall,  dark  cypress  that 
gave  shade  to  the  beautiful  picture. 

Few  cities  in  Mesopotamia  are  richer  in  Greek,  Roman, 
and  Christian  antiquities  than  Orfah.  It  is  the  Edessa 
of  the  Greeks,  and  the  Antoniopolis  of  the  Romans.  It 
was  here  that  Macrinus  assassinated  Antoninus  Bassia- 
nus  Caracalla,  son  of  the  Emj^eror  Severus.  It  was  en- 
larged and  beautified  by  the  Emperor  Justinian,  who 
may  be  regarded  as  the  great  church-builder  in  the  East. 
It  was  so  highly  esteemed  as  a  military  centre  that, 
around  its  walls,  Greeks  and  Romans,  Persians  and  Par- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  435 

thians,  Saracens  and  Crusaders,  fouglit  for  its  possession. 
But  its  chief  historic  significance  is  in  connection  with 
early  Christianity.  Here  was  the  residence  of  King  Ab- 
garus,  who  wrote  a  letter  to  Christ,  and  requested  there- 
in that  the  artist  who  bore  the  letter  might  be  permitted 
to  paint  a  portrait  of  Our  Lord.  According  to  the  pious 
tradition,  the  Saviour  declined  to  sit  for  his  picture,  but 
condescended  to  make  a  miraculous  impression  of  his 
countenance  upon  a  napkin,  which  he  sent  to  the  King 
of  Edessa.  For  centuries  this  imas-e  was  esteemed  the 
palladium  of  the  city,  and  was  finally  worshiped  by  a 
deluded  people. 

Although  Orfah  early  became  a  Christian  city,  yet  it 
is  notorious  for  its  relio-ious  eiTors  and  factions.  Durino- 
the  time  of  Julian  the  Apostate  it  became  a  stronghold 
of  the  Arians,  whose  disorders  led  to  the  confiscation  of 
their  church  property ;  and  one  hundred  years  later  the 
heresy  of  the  Nestorians  was  accepted  as  Divine  truth, 
notwithstanding  it  had  been  driven  from  Ephesus  and 
Chalcedon.  At  present  the  Christian  community  is  di- 
vided into  Syrian  Jacobites  and  Armenians.  The  former 
are  few  in  numbei'  and  weak  in  influence ;  but  the  latter 
are  strong  in  numbers,  in  wealth,  and  social  position. 
Their  community  is  estimated  at  fourteen  thousand,  and 
annually  increasing.  On  our  return  from  the  castle,  we 
visited  their  large  and  imposing  church.  It  stands  in  a 
spacious  court,  and  connected  therewith  is  the  episcopal 
residence  and  the  parish  school.  The  church  is  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  long  and  seventy-five  feet  wide.  The 
interior  is  divided  into  three  aisles  by  a  double  row  of 
Saracenic  columns,  wdiich  support  graceful  arches.  One 
of  the  aisles  is  partitioned  off  by  a  trellis-work,  to  screen 
the  female  portion  of  the  congregation.  From  the  ceil- 
ing depend  large  lamps,  and  the  floor  is  covered  with 


436  THRONES  AND   PALACES   OF 

Persian  carpets.  The  high  altar  is  exceedingly  impos- 
ing. Fifty  feet  high  and  thirty  feet  broad,  it  is  a  Gothic 
arch,  richly  gilded.  In  the  centre  is  a  representation  of 
the  Holy  Family,  and  on  either  side  are  images  of  the 
apostles,  while  above  them  all  is  Christ  sitting  in  judg- 
ment. On  the  right  of  the  altar  is  an  image  of  Mary 
and  her  Son,  encased  in  silver,  and  said  to  have  been 
painted  by  Thaddeus,  one  of  the  Seventy.  A  lamp  ever 
burns  before  that  image,  and  a  contribution-plate  is  ever 
there  to  receive  the  gifts  of  the  people.  Although  ves- 
pers were  ended,  yet  many  worshipers  were  present.  It 
is  customary  for  the  working  people,  before  they  return 
home,  to  stop  at  the  church  and  offer  their  prayers. 
Some  stood  like  statues,  others  touched  their  foreheads  to 
the  o-round  and  breathed  forth  their  devotions.  Around 
the  church  are  the  graves  of  the  sainted  dead,  and  over 
some  of  the  tombs  are  tasteful  monuments. 

The  Armenians  have  communities  in  nearly  all  the 
principal  towns,  from  Bagdad  to  the  Black  Sea,  and  from 
Kurdistan  to  the  Mediterranean.  They  trace  their  ori- 
gin back  to  apostolic  times.  In  the  fourth  century  of 
our  era  they  accepted  as  truth  the  Nicene  and  Athana- 
sian  creeds,  and  continued  in  this  belief  for  two  hundred 
years.  But  in  the  sixth  centur}^  they  were  induced  to 
change  their  religious  views  by  Jacob  Baradseus,  who 
taught  that  the  human  nature  of  Christ  had  been  ab- 
sorbed by  his  Divine  nature ;  and  that  the  procession  of 
the  Holy  Ghost  was  from  the  Father  alone.  In  these 
false  doctrines  they  still  abide,  and  are  to-day  a  formal 
and  powerless  church.  They  invoke  the  saints  and  wor- 
ship images ;  they  practice  a  triune  immersion  in  the  ad- 
ministration of  baptism;  and  they  believe  in  transub- 
stantiation  in  the  holy  eucharist.  They  have  patriarchs, 
bishops,  and  priests ;  they  have  monasteries  and  convents 


BABYLON  AND  NINE  FEE.  437 

and  parochial  schools.  At  present  their  community  is 
divided  into  Monophysites  and  Roman  Catholics;  but 
the  Papists  have  had  less  success  in  perverting  Arme- 
nians than  in  converting  Nestorians.  The  American  mis- 
sionaries are  now  exerting  a  wholesome  influence  over 
the  Armenian  youths  by  extending  to  them  the  privi- 
leges of  education. 

The  storm  of  the  previous  night  had  been  succeeded 
by  a  charming  morning,  and  at  8  a.m.  we  were  again  in 
motion.  On  the  outskirts  of  the  town  were  extensive 
Mohammedan  cemeteries,  and  beyond  them  were  large 
graperies  and  fig  orchards.  Our  path  lay  up  an  as- 
cent two  thousand  feet  high,  from  the  summit  of  which 
we  obtained  a  glorious  view  of  the  plains  below  and  of 
the  snow-capped  mountains  that  rose  above  us  on  the 
north.  Fragments  of  an  old  Roman  road  appeared  here 
and  there  as  Ave  advanced,  and  now  and  then  we  saw  the 
remains  of  ancient  reservoirs.  After  leaving  the  summit 
of  the  ridge,  and  for  eighteen  miles  beyond,  we  traveled 
through  a  rough  and  hilly  region.  About  5  p.m.  we 
halted  for  the  night  at  Charmelik,  and  encamped  at  the 
base  of  a  mound,  near  which  is  a  Roman  reservoir,  one 
hundred  feet  long,  six  feet  wide,  and  fifty  feet  deep.  The 
huts  of  the  villagers  are  of  mud,  with  roofs  of  sun-dried 
bricks,  which  resemble  bee -hives.  In  the  dusk  of  the 
evening  I  strolled  through  the  town,  and  examined  these 
ingeniously  constructed  dwellings.  The  entrance  is  a 
descent  into  an  under-ground  apartment,  above  which  is 
the  conical  roof  Upon  the  earthen  floor  was  spread 
the  coarse  rug  whereon  the  occupants  sleep,  and  on  the 
walls  were  suspended  the  sword  and  gun  for  protection 
against  the  midnight  thief  There  was  a  hum  of  busy 
life  in  the  little  village.  Youthful  shepherds  were  re- 
turning with  tlieir  flocks ;   the  men  were  feedino;  their 


438  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

camels  and  donkeys ;  and  the  women  were  carrying  wood 
and  water  for  the  night.  One  poor  girl,  who  had  lost 
the  use  of  her  lower  limbs,  moved  over  the  ground  by 
aid  of  her  hands,  and  seemed  to  be  pitied  and  caressed 
by  her  companions. 

The  night  was  severely  cold.  The  thermometer  indi- 
cated a  change  from  seventy-eight  to  forty  degrees  in 
less  than  twelve  hours.  We  were  near  the  Taurus  range, 
which  was  covered  with  snow ;  and  as  the  wind  blew 
from  the  direction  of  the  snowy  mountains,  it  was  in- 
tensely cold.  But  the  sun  came  forth  clear  and  bright, 
and  his  earliest  rays  were  welcomed  by  the  icy  peaks, 
which  blushed  in  the  rosy  light.  Nearly  all  the  morn- 
ing we  followed  the  line  of  the  telegraph,  which  impart- 
ed to  the  soul  a  sense  of  home.  Having  lunched  near  a 
small  stream,  we  resumed  our  tour,  and  rode  over  chalk- 
hills  so  white  as  to  be  exceedingly  painful  to  the  eyes. 
Here  in  this  dry  region  the  Romans  had  constructed  im- 
mense reservoirs  for  the  accommodation  of  their  armies 
and  for  the  comfort  of  caravans ;  and  so  admirably  were 
they  made,  they  have  suffered  but  little  from  the  lapse 
of  the  ages,  and  the  constant  neglect  by  the  subsequent 
occupants  of  the  country.  At.l  p.m.  we  passed  the  wa- 
ter-shed, and  an  hour  thereafter  we  saw  the  Euphrates. 
The  large  town  of  Birijik  was  now  full  in  view,  and  the 
prospect  thereof  was  the  most  picturesque  we  had  seen 
in  Mesopotamia.  The  toil  of  the  journey  was  relieved 
by  the  pleasant  approach  to  the  city  through  extensive 
graperies,  and  fig  and  apricot  orchards.  On  either  side 
of  the  road,  the  clear  water  flowed  rapidly  in  its  descent 
to  the  Euphrates,  In  the  rocks  are  large  caves  where 
travelers  repose  during  the  night,  and  in  the  quarries 
natives  were  at  work  dressing  the  soft  stone  for  l)uild- 
ing  purposes.     Passing  through  the  crowded  bazaar,  we 


BABYLON  AND   NINEVEH. 


439 


reached  the  ferry  with  difficulty.  Large  quantities  of 
grain  in  sacks  were  there  to  be  ferried  over  the  river, 
and  an  immense  throng  of  people  were  waiting  to  cross. 
We  applied  to  the  authorities  for  permission  to  cross, 
but,  after  a  tedious  delay  of  an  hour,  we  were  informed 
that  we  must  wait  till  morning.  This  was  a  disappoint- 
ment, as  we  preferred  tenting  on  the  green  banks  beyond 
to  remaining  in  a  Turkish  town.      We  dispatched  our 


TOWN   OF   BIRIJIK. 


servant  to  the  pasha,  Imt  that  placid  dignitary  consoled 
us  by  affirming  that  there  would  be  less  water  in  the 
river  in  the  morning,  and  that  it  would  then  be  much 
safer  crossing.  This  polite  reply  w\as  to  cover  his  pur- 
pose to  detain  us  till  the  morrow.  Reluctantly  we  re- 
turned through  the  narrow,  crowded  streets,  and  stopped 
for  the  nio:ht  in  a  laro-e  khan,  wdiere  all  manner  of  ani- 
mals  had  their  abode. 

In  the  light  of  the  setting  sun,  and  in  the  light  of 


4-40  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

the  full  moon,  we  viewed  with  delight  the  terraced 
streets,  the  embattled  towers,  the  dome  and  minaret  of 
many  a  mosque,  and  the  white  dwellings,  rising  in  tiers 
to  the  summit  of  the  bluffs,  which  combine  to  make  Biri- 
jik  the  most  picturesque  town  on  the  banks  of  the  Eu- 
phrates. It  is,  no  doubt,  the  Birtha  of  antiquity,  and 
near  it  has  been  a  ferry  across  the  Upper  Euphrates,  be- 
tween Syria  and  Mesopotamia,  from  the  days  of  the  pa- 
triarchs to  the  present  time.  The  town  is  built  upon 
three  white  chalk  bluffs,  which  are  from  five  hundred  to 
one  thousand  feet  high.  The  streets  are  so  many  ter- 
races cut  in  the  rocks,  and  extend  from  the  water's  edge 
to  the  summit  of  the  hills.  The  buildings  are  of  the 
same  materials  as  the  hills,  and  it  is  difficult  to  distin- 
guish them  apart  at  any  considerable  distance  from  the 
place.  The  sight  was  pleasing  as  we  looked  up  from  the 
margin  of  the  river  and  saw  the  people  on  the  flat  roofs 
of  their  dwellings  enjoying  the  beautiful  sunset.  Of  the 
twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  some  are  Turks,  some  are 
Arabs,  some  are  Christians,  and  a  few  are  Jews.  The 
Moslems  have  five  mosques,  the  Armenians  have  one 
church,  and  the  Jews  have  a  synagogue.  The  people 
speak  Turkish  and  Arabic,  and  most  of  them  are  mer- 
chants and  craftsmen.  In  the  fantastically  excavated 
caves,  both  within  and  without  the  city  walls,  the  Arab 
shepherds  live  and  fold  their  flocks.  On  the  summit  of 
the  most  northern  bluff,  whose  base  is  washed  by  the 
river,  is  an  old  castle,  now  shattered,  but  still  imposing. 
Rising  two  hundred  feet  above  the  Euphrates,  the  old 
Roman  tower  is  oblong  in  form,  with  a  double  row  of 
apartments  on  the  eastern  side,  crowned  with  a  parapet, 
and  beneath  them  are  two  tiers  of  galleries  cut  in  the 
solid  rock,  with  loop-holes  for  archery.  The  entrance  is 
through  a  narrow  gate-way,  and  within  is  a  covered  pas- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  441 

sage-way  which  leads  to  the  river.  Some  of  the  larger 
chambers  remain  in  good  condition,  and  in  one  of  the 
arched  apartments  is  a  bass-relief.  A  few  Corinthian 
columns  and  a  broken  frieze  indicate  the  former  elegance 
of  the  j)lace. 

At  six  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  at  the  ferry. 
At  our  feet  rushed  and  foamed  the  ancient  Euphrates. 
Having  its  source  in  the  mountains  of  Armenia,  its  vol- 
ume is  increased  in  the  sj)ring  by  numberless  tributaries, 
and  swollen  by  the  melting  snows  on  Mount  Tanrus. 
Larger  than  the  Orontes  and  the  Jordan,  about  equal  in 
breadth  to  the  Thames  at  Blackfriars  Bridge,  it  is  not 
wider  than  the  Hudson  opposite  West  Point.  It  is  of 
the  color  of  the  Nile,  and  the  dull  yellowish  earth  which 
discolors  its  waters  is  borne  southward,  to  form  alluvial 
plains  around  the  ruins  of  Babylon.  Where  the  banks 
are  steep,  they  are  here  composed  of  a  chalky  soil ;  and 
where  they  are  flat,  they  are  covered  with  trees  and  verd- 
ure. Both  to  the  north  and  south  of  the  town  there  are 
woods  and  green  fields  and  extensive  groves.  Looking 
northward,  it  was  a  pleasing  sight  to  watch  the  classic 
river  as  it  flowed  toward  ns,  meandering  as  it  does  among 
the  distant  hills.  It  is  one  of  the  few  rivers  mentioned 
in  the  Bible  which  still  retain  the  Scriptural  name.  It 
was  familiar  to  the  patriarchs,  for  it  is  said,  "  In  that 
same  day  the  Lord  made  a  covenant  with  Abram,  say- 
ing, Unto  thy  seed  have  I  given  this  land,  from  the  river 
of  Egypt  unto  the  great  river,  the  river  Euphrates."'^' 

Where  we  stood,  the  eastern  bank  was  steep,  and  the 
opposite  one  was  flat,  covered  with  dark  sand  and  peb- 
bles of  white  quartz.  As  the  recent  rains  had  melted  the 
snows  on  the  Taurus  Mountains,  the  river  w\as  swollen 

*  Genesis  xv.,  18. 


442  THEONi:S  AND  PALACES  OF 

beyond  the  memory  of  man.  The  current  was  strong, 
not  less  than  twenty  feet  deep,  and  rushed  by  with  a  I'a- 
pidity  equal  to  six  miles  an  hour.  The  boats  in  which 
we  were  to  cross  were  rude  and  unwieldy.  Each  one 
was  forty  feet  long,  ten  feet  broad,  fifteen  feet  high  at 
the  bow,  and  only  two  feet  high  at  the  stern.  These 
boats  have  neither  keel,  stem-piece,  nor  stern-post ;  the 
bottoms  are  formed  by  planks  nailed  beneath  the  cross- 
timbers  of  the  flooring;  and  the  stern  gradually  rises 
from  the  bottom  till  above  the  level  of  the  water.  On 
the  high  bow  is  a  long  oar,  formed  of  a  trunk  of  a  young 
tree,  with  its  thickest  end  inboard,  and  so  fastened  as  to 
nearly  balance.  By  this  Oriental  arrangement  the  rud- 
der is  in  the  bow  of  the  boat.  At  the  stern  and  on 
either  side  were  immense  oars,  each  pulled  by  three  men. 
When  ready  to  cross,  the  boat  is  pushed  upon  the  beach, 
stern  on,  and  then  loaded. 

During  the  night  many  caravans  had  arrived,  and  the 
excitement  at  the  ferry  was  intense.  Thousands  of  sacks 
of  grain  had  been  brought  there  for  transportation,  and 
the  impatient  merchant  was  furious  at  the  delay.  Horses, 
mules,  camels,  donkeys,  cattle,  sheep,  men,  women,  and 
children,  were  there  to  be  ferried  across,  and  the  neigh- 
ing of  the  horse,  the  groaning  of  the  camel,  the  braying 
of  the  ass,  the  bleating  of  the  sheep,  mingled  with  the  cry 
of  the  child,  the  scream  of  the  women,  and  the  harsh  gut- 
tural of  the  men.  We  were  detained  in  this  noise  and 
crowd  for  more  than  an  hour ;  not  from  necessity,  but 
from  sheer  love  of  money.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary 
ferriage,  we  were  required  to  pay  fifty  piastres  for  the 
privilege  to  cross  at  once,  or  otherwise  we  must  wait  the 
pleasure  of  the  ferry-masters.  We  paid  it,  and  thought 
"  What  thieves  these  Turkish  officials  are  !" 

The  amount  was  given,  and  we  were  soon  out  in  the 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  443 

powerful  current,  which  swept  ns  down  the  river,  despite 
the  efforts  of  the  boatmen.  It  was  an  anxious  moment. 
The  men  lost  control  of  the  boat ;  our  horses  became 
restive ;  the  Arabs  grew  pale ;  and  the  boatmen  shouted 
and  screamed,  as  if  blowing  were  better  than  rowing. 
We  had  been  carried  half  a  mile  below  the  proper  land- 
ing, but  thanked  God  that  the  crossing  was  over. 

We  were  now  in  Syria,  which  extends  from  the  Eu- 
phrates to  the  Mediterranean,  and  from  Armenia  to  Pal- 
estine and  Araljia.  We  were  to  cross  its  rusfsred  mount- 
ains  and  follow  its  narrow,  tortuous  valleys.  We  w^ei'e 
to  scale  the  heights  of  its  Libanus  and  Antilibanus,  and 
look  upon  the  icy  crown  of  Hermon.  We  were  to  visit 
Aleppo,  its  chief  commercial  inland  city,  and  embark  at 
Iskenderoon,  one  of  its  largest  sea-port  towns.  Our  tour 
through  Mesopotamia  had  been  completed  ;  we  had  look- 
ed upon  the  Euphrates  for  the  last  time;  and  we  were 
now  to  traverse  Northern  Syria,  through  which  had  so 
often  mai'ched  the  proud  armies  of  the  Assyrians,  of  the 
Greeks  and  Romans,  of  the  Persians  and  Parthians,  and 
over  which  Solomon  had  swayed  his  mighty  sceptre. 

All  were  ready  for  a  start  at  9  a.m.  ;  but,  at  the  mo- 
ment of  starting,'  our  Turkish  soldier  proved  himself  a 
rogue.  He  pretended  that  the  pasha  had  commanded 
him  to  take  us  by  the  longer  route  to  Aleppo ;  this, 
however,  was  but  a  pretense  to  get  a  present  to  go  the 
shorter  road.  We  dismissed  him  at  once,  and  an  hour 
beyond  we  saw  him  lying  by  the  wayside  awaiting  our 
coming,  and  still  hoping  that  we  would  employ  him. 
Having  acquainted  the  pasha  with  the  facts,  he  sent  us 
an  excellent  guide,  and  also  his  apology  for  what  had 
occurred.  Our  path  was  among  the  dark  hills,  and  in 
three  hours  we  crossed  a  new  bridge  that  spans  a  pretty- 
stream,  near  which  is  a  beautiful  cascade. 


444  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

On  tlie  way  we  met  three  hundred  camels,  loaded 
with  English  dry-goods  and  with  American  petroleum, 
bound  for  the  inland  towns  as  far  south  as  Mosul.  We 
halted  to  see  them  pass.  It  was  a  grand  sight.  There 
was  majesty  in  the  slow,  measured  movement  of  the 
three  hundred,  as  each  waved  its  head  on  high  as  if 
conscious  of  the  review.  Each  was  a  noble  specimen  of 
its  kind  ;  each  had  a  bell  suspended  around  its  long 
and  curving  neck ;  each  had  its  name,  and  knew  the 
voice  of  its  driver.  They  recalled  the  patriarchal  past, 
for  "Job  had  six  thousand  camels,"*  and  they  formed  in 
part  the  great  wealth  of  Abraham.  As  beasts  of  bur- 
den they  are  indispensable  in  a  country  like  this,  and  are 
here  esteemed  of  great  value.  They  are  domestic  ani- 
mals, and  are  never  found  wild.  In  their  structure,  they 
are  adapted  to  the  climate,  to  the  soil,  and  to  the  condi- 
tion of  society  in  the  East.  Their  feet  are  adapted  to 
the  sands  of  the  desert,  and  to  the  plains  of  Syria  and 
Mesopotamia.  Consisting  of  two  long  toes,  a  hard^  elas- 
tic cushion,  and  a  tough,  bony  sole,  the  camel's  foot  be- 
speaks the  wisdom  that  formed  it  for  a  purpose.  Where 
they  are  compelled  to  make  long  journeys,  and  often 
through  dry  and  barren  regions,  their  power  of  endur- 
ance is  wonderful.  They  can  travel  for  twenty  days,  a 
distance  of  six  hundred  miles,  without  food ;  and  al- 
though they  require  ordinarily  as  much  water  as  other 
animals,  yet  they  are  furnished  with  a  series  of  cells 
into  which  the  water  runs,  and  wherein  it  is  preserved 
for  future  use.  Sometimes  the  camel  is  killed  to  supply 
the  famishing  owner  or  driver  with  water.  When  first 
taken  from  the  cells  it  is  of  a  greenish  color,  but  soon 
becomes  fresh   again.     A  camel  can  drink  as   much   as 

*  Job  xlii.,  12. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  445 

twenty  gallons  at  one  time.  They  are  so  endowed  that 
they  can  scent  water  a  great  way  off,  and  many  a  thirsty 
traveler  has  been  encouraged  to  hope  by  the  motion  of 
his  camel.  As  beasts  of  burden  their  streno-th  is  ixreat. 
They  can  carry  from  five  to  six  hundred  pounds,  and 
travel  on  for  many  days.  Although  they  are  revengeful 
and  never  playful,  yet  they  become  attached  to  their 
driver,  and  seem  charmed  with  his  song,  of  which  this  is 
a  specimen : 

"Dear  unto  me  as  the  sight  of  mine  eyes 
Art  thou,  O  my  camel. 
Precious  to  me  as  the  health  of  my  life 
Art  thou,  O  my  camel. 
Sweet  to  my  ears  is  the  sound 
Of  thy  tinkling  bells,  O  my  camel; 
And  sweet  to  thy  listening  ears 
Is  the  sound  of  my  eveuiug  song." 

While  the  ordinary  camel  is  slow  of  pace,  yet  the 
deloul  is  exceedingly  swift.  In  appearance,  the  deloul  is 
lank,  gaunt,  and  ungainly,  but  it  can  go  ten  miles  an 
hour,  and  can  endure  a  continuous  journey  of  five  hun- 
dred miles.  The  color  is  light  brown  and  white,  and  the 
limbs  seem  formed  for  rapid  motion.  Delouls  are  em- 
ployed by  Turkish  and  European  ofiicials  in  the  East, 
to  carry  a  special  messenger  when  business  requires  dis-' 
patch.  To  this  the  prophets  allude :  "  Thou  art  a  swift 
dromedary  traversing  her  ways  ;"^*  and,  "  The  multitude 
of  camels  shall  cover  thee,  the  dromedaries  of  Midian 
and  Ephah ;  all  they  from  Sheba  shall  come :  they  shall 
bring  gold  and  incense;  and  they  shall  show  forth  the 
praises  of  the  Lord."f 

There  is  a  very  marked  difference  between  the  camels 
of  Mesopotamia  and  those  of  Bactria.    The  Bactrian  cam- 


*  Jeremiah  ii.,  23.  f  Isaiah  Ix.,  6. 


446 


THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 


el  is  adapted  to  a  colder  climate  by  the  thickness  of  its 
hair,  and  to  a  mountain  region,  by  a  long,  projecting  toe, 
which  enables  it  to  climb  the  rocky  passes.  Those  of 
Bactria  are  draught-camels,  employed  to  draw  huge  carts 
and  lighter  vehicles.  To  these  Isaiah  refers :  "And  he 
saw  a  chariot  of  camels.'*'"^'  Some  suppose  that  the  dis- 
tinction between  the  camel  and  the  dromedary  is  in  tlie 


THE  DROMEDARY. 


su23position  that  the  former  has  one  hump,  and  the  latter 
has  two  humps.  But  such  is  not  the  case.  The  double- 
humped  camel  is  found  only  in  Bactria,  and  in  countries 
north  and  east  of  Persia ;  and  is  shorter,  thicker,  more 
muscular,  covered  with  a  dark  and  shaggy  hair,  and  is 
heavier  and  stronger  than  the  single-humped  camel  found 


*  Isaiah  xxi.,  7. 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


447 


in  Mesopotamia,  Arabia,  Syria,  Egypt,  and  Africa.  The 
latter  are  taller,  more  slender,  of  a  paler  color,  lighter  in 
form  and  in  flesh,  and  are  covered  with  a  short,  sleek 
hair.  From  the  single-humped  camel  comes  the  drome- 
dary, which  is  trained  for  speed,  and  holds  the  same  re- 
lation to  other  camels  that  the  race-horse  holds  to  other 
horses. 

Having  passed  the   great   caravan,  we  rode  on,  and 
lunched  at  Saracosh.     During  the  afternoon   our  path 


ARAB   CAMELS. 


lay  through  a  beautiful  section  of  country,  where  the  soil 
was  red,  rich,  and  well  cultivated.  Crossing  the  charm- 
ing Sarjure,  we  halted  for  the  night  at  the  small  village 
of  Karaguz.  From  the  peasants  we  replenished  our  ex- 
hausted larder,  and  after  a  good  supper  on  what  the 
dairy,  the  hennery,  and  the  flock  could  furnish,  we  rested 
for  the  night. 

The  mornino;  was  brio-ht,  but  a  stronsj  north-west  wind 
blew  hard  all  day,  which  detracted  from  the  pleasure  of 


448  THRONES  AND  PALACES   OF 

traveling.  At  noon  we  rested  for  two  hours  at  Cliobora- 
l>eojee,  where  is  a  small  mosque  shaded  by  three  young 
trees.  The  pretty  maidens  of  the  place  were  milking  the 
sheep,  which  their  youthful  brothers  had  driven  in  from 
the  fields.  Both  men  and  women  were  engaged  in  brick- 
making,  and  the  bricks  produced  resembled  in  size  and 
color  those  I  had  seen  at  ancient  Babylon  and  Nineveh. 
After  our  too  brief  rest,  we  were  again  in  the  saddle, 
and,  during  the  afternoon,  rode  through  a  rich  country, 
and  more  thickly  settled  than  any  other  portion  of  Syria 
we  had  yet  seen.  As  the  sun  declined,  we  pitched  our 
tents  for  the  night  at  the  village  of  Barazur. 

Cheered  by  the  prospect  of  reaching  Aleppo  l^y  noon, 
we  started  the  next  morninsi:  ^^  f^^i^n'  o'clock.  At  6  a.m. 
we  forded  a  stream  whose  waters  flow  to  the  sea,  which 
clearly  indicated  that  we  had  commenced  our  descent  to 
the  Mediterranean.  The  road  was  stony,  and  rougher 
than  on  any  previous  day.  While  resting  for  an  hour 
near  a  half- ruined  town,  a  caravan  of  Persian  pilgrims 
passed  us,  who  were  returning  from  Mecca  to  their  dis- 
tant homes.  In  an  hour  beyond,  the  Castle  of  Aleppo 
was  seen  to  the  south-east,  and  the  sight  thereof  filled 
our  hearts  with  gladness. 

The  approach  to  the  city  was  through  extensive  sub- 
urban gardens,  wherein  the  vine,  the  fig,  the  pomegran- 
ate, the  apricot,  the  lemon,  and  the  orange  blended  their 
foliage  and  their  blossoms,  producing  a  pleasing  scene. 
Above  the  groves  rose  the  domes  and  minarets,  the  walls 
and  towers,  of  the  most  elegant  city  in  inland  Syria.  On 
our  left  was  the  old  Roman  castle,  crowning  the  highest 
of  the  surrounding  hills,  and  which  has  been  the  scene 
of  many  bloody  struggles  for  the  conquest  of  the  place. 
From  its  geographical  position,  Aleppo  represents  the 
older  civilization  of  the  East  and  the  better  civilization 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH. 


449 


of  the  West.  A  fortified  town,  its  walls  are  forty  feet 
high,  penetrated  by  seven  gates,  and  defended  by  towers 
ten  feet  higher  than  the  pai'apet.  The  buildings  within 
are  of  stone,  and  many  of  them  are  superior  in  construc- 
tion and  ornamentation.  The  city  contains  two  hun- 
dred fountains,  sixty  baths,  one  hundred  coffee-houses, 
one  hundred  mosques,  and  many  schools  and  churches. 


HALT   OP   A    CARAVAN. 


Of  the  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  three-fourths 
are  Moslems,  and  the  remainder  are  Syrian,  Greek,  Chal- 
dean, Armenian,  Catholic,  and  Protestant  Christians,  to- 
gether with  nativ^e  and  foreign  Jews.  The  Catholics 
have  divided  the  Greeks,  the  Armenians,  and  Syrians, 
and  greatly  outnumber  those  who  have  remained  stead- 
fast in  the  faith  of  their  fathers.  In  commercial  impor- 
tance and  wealth  Aleppo  is  second  to  Damascus.     Being 

29 


450  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

but  three  days  from  tlie  sea-port  town  of  Iskeiiderooii, 
the  trade  of  Europe  passes  through  its  gates  to  all  in- 
land towns  as  far  soutli  as  Mosul ;  and  through  it  flows 
the  return  commerce  of  Mesopotamia,  Kurdistan,  and 
North-eastern  Syria,  for  shipment  at  Iskenderoon  for 
Egypt,  the  Levant,  Europe,  and  America.  In  refinement 
of  manners,  in  style  of  living,  in  social  intercourse,  the 
citizens  of  Aleppo  are  the  most  polished  people  in  the 
East.  Those  who  are  rich  reside  in  spacious  dwellings, 
which  are  furnished  in  a  manner  representing  the  ele- 
gance of  the  West  and  the  luxury  of  the  East ;  and 
around  such  dwellings  are  gardens  wherein  flowers 
bloom,  fountains  sparkle  in  the  sunlight,  and  orchards 
yield  the  most  luscious  fruits. 

During  our  stay  of  three  days  in  Aleppo,  we  were  en- 
tertained at  the  American  mission.  The  property  is 
well  located,  and  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  purposes 
for  which  it  was  purchased.  Within  is  a  paved  court 
with  fountain,  vines,  and  flowers.  On  one  side  of  the 
quadrangle  is  the  church,  capable  of  seating  four  hun- 
dred persons;  adjoining  it  is  the  school-room,  wherein 
were  thirty  boys  and  girls  under  the  care  of  a  native 
Christian  lady ;  on  the  other  sides  of  the  square  are  the 
residences  of  the  missionaries,  for  the  accommodation  of 
two  families.  The  membership  of  the  mission  is  fifty, 
and  the  congregation  averages  one  hundred.  Some  of 
the  most  enterprising  young  men  of  Aleppo  are  mem- 
bers of  this  community,  whose  influence  is  a  power  for 
good.  The  pastor  in  charge  is  a  native,  and  is  highly 
esteemed  for  his  piety  and  learning. 

While  a  guest  at  the  mission,  I  was  invited  to  attend 
the  funeral  of  one  of  the  most  wealthy  and  influential 
members  of  the  congregation.  A  walk  of  twenty  min- 
utes brought  me  to  the  residence  of  the  departed,  where 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  451 

a  large  concourse  of  people  bad  assembled.  The  coffin 
was  placed  on  the  floor,  and  around  it  sat  the  relatives 
and  friends  of  the  dead,  singing  hymns  appropriate  to  the 
sad  occasion.  The  deceased  was  wrapped  in  a  winding- 
sheet,  and  about  his  head  was  a  napkin.  In  the  al)sence 
of  the  pastor,  one  of  the  elders  of  the  church  offered 
prayer,  and  then  invited  the  mourners  to  take  a  fare^vell 
look  of  the  beloved  dead.  The  voice  of  weeping  and 
lamentation  touched  all  hearts  present  with  deep  sympa- 
thy for  the  afflicted  fiimily.  At  the  head  of  the  proces- 
sion w^ere  four  swordsmen,  who  were  followed  by  four 
hired  pall-bearers,  dressed  in  red.  The  coffin  Avas  borne 
by  four  coolies,  who  were  alternately  relieved  by  four 
others.  The  officers  of  the  church  marched  in  fi-ont  of 
the  coffin,  and  sung  hymns  full  of  Christian  hope,  which 
seemed  a  cheei-ful  way  to  bury  the  pious  dead.  The 
procession  increased  in  niunbers  as  it  advanced  to  the 
tomb,  and  all  joined  in  the  funeral  song.  Women  in 
white  thronged  the  streets,  and  preceded  the  solemn  cor- 
tege to  the  grave.  The  cemetery  is  near  the  English 
consulate,  and  covers  an  area  of  many  miles.  When  the 
coffin  was  lowered  into  the  grave,  a  human  skull  and 
arm-bones  were  placed  on  the  casket  as  the  ghastly  em- 
blems of  death.  Then  the  great  congregation  sung  a 
hymn,  the  officiating  elder  offered  an  affecting  prayer, 
and  the  dead  was  left  in  peace. 

In  company  with  Mr.  Frederic  Poche,  the  American 
consular  agent,  and  Doctor  Hagopian,  the  consular  drago- 
man, we  strolled  through  the  large  bazaars,  which  were 
filled  with  English,  French,  Swiss,  American,  and  native 
goods.  Among  the  latter  were  elegant  silk  and  gold- 
embroidered  robes,  such  as  are  worn  l)y  the  Syrian  la- 
dies, and  which  would  be  highly  prized  by  the  ladies  of 
our  own  country.     During  our  stroll  we  passed  several 


452  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

places  where  American  petroleum  was  sold,  and  which 
is  in  irreat  demand  throuo;hout  the  East.  In  the  even- 
insT  we  were  the  o;uests  of  Mr.  Poche  at  dinner.  He  and 
his  brother  are  the  most  extensive  and  successful  Euro- 
pean merchants  in  Aleppo.  His  style  of  living  indicates 
his  wealth  and  the  refinement  of  his  taste.  Madam 
Poche  is  a  lady  of  great  personal  beauty,  in  whose  com- 
plexion blend  the  lily  and  the  rose,  and  whose  large, 
black,  lustrous  eyes  shone  like  resplendent  diamonds. 

At  2  P.M.  the  next  day,  we  resumed  our  journey  to  the 
sea.  According  to  a  beautiful  Oriental  custom,  Messrs. 
Poche  and  Hagopian  accompanied  us  to  the  gardens  to 
the  north-west  of  the  city,  from  which  point  is  obtained 
the  most  imposing  view  of  elegant  Aleppo.  After  a  ride 
of  four  hours  through  a  hilly  region  nnd  over  a  rough 
road,  we  halted  for  the  night  at  Auwaggeal,  a  village 
that  had  seen  better  days. 

The  rainless  weather  continued.  The  sun  rose  in  a 
cloudless  sky.  The  balmy  breath  of  spring  was  laden 
with  the  odor  of  wild  flowers.  The  birds  carroled  the 
melody  of  their  song  from  their  sylvan  coverts.  The 
sparkling  waters  of  the  cascade  leaped  with  delight,  and 
the  murmuring  brook  flowed  nmsically  by.  The  fresh 
grain  imparted  beauty  to  the  hills,  and  the  rich  mead- 
ows were  teeming  with  herds  and  flocks.  Amidst  such 
pleasures  of  nature  we  rode  on,  hour  after  hour.  We 
had  passed  Tarkot  on  the  left,  and  at  noon  we  lunched 
in  a  charming  valley  near  a  well  of  delicious  water. 
Late  in  the  afternoon  we  entered  a  glorious  valley, 
bounded  by  lofty  mountains  and  smaller  hills,  dotted 
with  towns  and  encampments,  rich  in  grain  and  grasses. 
In  the  meadows,  hundreds  of  camels  were  browsing,  and 
near  them  wei-e  their  l)urdens  of  foreign  goods  en  route 
for  Aleppo.    On  our  left  were  hot  sulphur-springs,  where 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  453 

bath-houses  had  been  erected  for  invalids.  Here  we  met 
the  only  European  traveler  in  all  our  journey  of  forty 
days.  He  was  bound  southward,  and  had  a  military  es- 
cort. In  the  stillness  of  the  evening  hour,  we  stopj^ed 
for  the  night  at  the  little  village  of  Inonabarsh,  in  the 
north-west  end  of  the  valley.  We  had  been  in  the  sad- 
dle eleven  hours,  and  rest  was  sweet.  The  peasants  re- 
ceived us  kindly,  and  supplied  us  with  fruits  and  eggs, 
with  milk  and  poultry.  The  cottages  are  constructed  of 
reeds,  and  are  cool  in  summer,  but  cold  in  winter.  They 
were  furnished  with  more  comforts  than  any  we  had  yet 
seen.  The  family  of  our  host  was  large  and  interesting. 
The  mother  and  daughters  were  gayly  attired,  and  their 
head-dress  was  high  and  ornamental.  Our  comfort  was 
increased  by  clean  beds  and  mosquito-bai's,  rare  luxuries 
in  the  East. 

As  the  rosy  light  of  the  dawn  appeared,  we  were  de- 
scending the  foot-hills,  and  soon  entered  the  north-w^est 
branch  of  the  magnificent  valley  we  had  crossed  yester- 
day. On  our  right,  and  far  away,  appeared  gray  mount- 
ains capped  with  white  clouds ;  on  our  left,  and  before 
us,  w^ere  meadows,  rich  and  vast.  Across  the  head  of 
the  valley  extended  a  stone  causeway  built  by  the  Ro- 
mans, and  repaired  by  the  Turks ;  but  the  recent  rains 
and  the  melting  of  the  snows  had  rendered  it  useless. 
The  whole  meadow  was  submerged  to  the  depth  of  three 
feet.  Our  soldiers  led  the  way,  and  we  rode  for  miles 
through  the  water  to  reach  the  high  ground  on  the  east. 
During  the  morning  we  regained  the  broad  and  well- 
made  road,  constructed  of  blocks  of  limestone ;  and,  as 
part  of  the  same,  we  crossed  four  bridges,  the  lai'gest 
of  which  is  twelve  hundred  feet  long,  twenty  feet  wide, 
and  is  supported  by  twelve  arches.  We  subsequently 
traced  this  road  as  far  as  Beylan.     But  it  is  now  a  ruin. 


454  THRONES  AND  PALACES  OF 

Under  the  present  snltan,  there  is  neither  public  spirit 
iu  the  people  nor  official  honesty  enough  in  the  countiy 
to  keep  such  a  road  in  good  condition. 

Once  out  of  the  ^vet  meadowdands,  we  were  again  on 
tl)e  highway  to  the  sea.  As  we  approached  the  coast, 
caravans  were  larger  and  more  frequent.  We  passed  not 
fewer  than  one  thousand  camels ;  some  were  at  rest,  oth- 
ers were  in  motion.  In  one  caravan  were  three  Syrian 
ladies,  who  rode  with  graceful  ease,  and  whose  beautiful 
faces  could  be  seen  through  their  light  gauze  veils. 

At  noon  we  entered  the  grand  pass  of  Iskenderoon, 
and  halted  at  Khan  Diarbekir,  where  a  Teuton  and 
his  Syrian  wife  provided  us  with  luncheon.  Here  the 
mountain -streams  met,  and  our  ears  were  banqueted 
with  the  music  of  running  waters.  We  now  began  the 
ascent  of  the  magnificent  but  difficult  pass.  In  two 
hours  we  reached  a  broad  plateau  covered  with  the  fig, 
the  olive,  and  the  oleander.  Another  ascent  w^as  before 
us,  but  neither  so  rough  nor  dangerous.  Here  and  there 
could  be  traced  the  old  Roman  road,  that  answered  well 
enough  for  the  valley,  but  not  for  this  steep  pass.  Up 
the  Avinding  way  w^e  toiled,  the  wind  sighing  softly 
through  the  mountain  pines.  In  three  and  a  half  hours 
we  had  gained  the  summit,  and  had  therefrom  a  noble 
view  of  the  near  ravines,  the  distant  mountains,  the  val- 
ley we  had  left  behind.  Here  the  telegraph  crosses  the 
ridge;  here  a  new  khan  has  been  erected  for  travelers; 
here  a  broad  macadamized  road  was  in  process  of  con- 
struction. As  the  sun  went  down,  we  halted  for  the 
night  at  Beylan.  Like  a  Swiss  village,  Beylan  is  in  the 
mountains,  whei-e  the  valleys  are  deep  and  the  peaks  are 
high.  The  nine  hundred  houses  are  of  stone,  with  flat, 
thatched  roofs,  and  are  built  on  the  side  of  the  mountains 
fi-om  base  to  summit.     The  streets  are  narrow  and  tort- 


BABYLON  AND  NINEVEH.  455 

uoiis.  Tlie  six  thousand  inhabitants  are  Moslems,  Jews, 
and  Armenian  Christians.  Down  the  mountains  rush 
cascades  whose  united  waters  form  in  the  deep  gorge  a 
stream  of  much  power,  but  which  the  vilhigers  fail  to 
utilize  from  lack  of  mechanical  skill.  Our  stopping- 
place  was  a  coliee- house  overhanging  the  deep  valley, 
and  therein  we  spent  the  last  night  of  our  memorable 
journe}'. 

Amidst  the  charms  of  another  briirht  morning;  w^e 
commenced  the  descent  of  the  Beylan  Pass.  A  train  of 
camels  loaded  with  Syrian  wool  blockaded  the  narrow 
path,  and  compelled  us  to  halt.  Patience  conquers  all 
things,  camels  and  Arabs  included.  Permitted  at  length 
to  pass,  we  were  soon  beyond  the  limits  of  the  town. 
An  hour's  ride,  and  we  saw  the  sea,  a  sight  long  antici- 
pated, and  now  realized  with  gratitude  to  Him  "■  who 
is  over  all,  and  God  blessed  foi-ever."  All  nature  sym- 
pathized with  the  joyfulness  of  the  moment.  The  w^ild 
scenery ;  the  deep  gorges ;  the  high  mountains ;  the  tu- 
multuous rush  of  the  waters  ;  the  fresh  foliage  of  the 
pine,  the  cedar,  the  oak,  and  oleander;  the  scream  of  the 
eao-le,  and  the  sons:  of  birds,  deliohted  the  senses,  and 
enhanced  the  joy  of  the  soul.  Having  accomplished  the 
descent  in  two  hours,  in  less  than  an  hour  thereafter  we 
were  at  Iskenderoon,  in  whose  placid  bay  lay  the  steamer 
that  w^as  to  bear  us  on  our  homeward  voyage. 


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NEW  ENGLAND  COAST.  By  Sa.mikl 
A'.)AM8  DitAKE,  Author  of  "Old  Laiid- 
mai-ks  of  Boston,"  "  Historic  Fields  and 
Mansions  of  Middlesex,"  &c.  With 
numerous  Ilhistraliuus.  Square  Svo, 
Cloth,  $3  50. 

CALIFORNIA:  for  Health,  Pleasure,  and 

Residence.     A  Book  for  Travellers  and 

Settlers.      Illustrations.      By    Ciiaki.kb 

NoiinuoFF.     Svo,  Paper,  $2  00;  Cloth, 

■  $2  50. 

NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA,  OREGON, 
AND  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 
By  Chaules  NoBDnoFi'.  Profusely  Il- 
lustrated.    Svo,  Clolh,  $2  50. 

THE  COMMUNISTIC  SOCIETIES  OF 
THE  UNITED  STATES;  includiu;;  De- 
tailed Accounts,  from  Personal  Visit  and 
Ol)servatiou,oftlie  Economists,  Zoarites, 
Shakers,  the  Aniana,  Oneida,  Bethel, 
Aurora,  Icarian,  and  otlier  exisiinp:  So- 
cieties. Wiih  Particulars  of  their  Reli- 
gious Creeds  and  Practices,  their  Social 
Theories  and  Life,  Numbers,  Industries, 
and  Present  Condition.  By  Chari.fs 
NoKKHoFF.  Illustratious.  8vo,  Cloth, 
$4  00. 

PRATRIE  AND  FOREST:  a  Description 
of  the  Game  of  North  America,  with 
Personal  Adventures  in  their  Pursuit. 
By  Paukkr  Gii.lmop.e.  Illustrated. 
12mo,  Cloth,  St  50. 

NORTH  AMERICA.  Bv  Anthony  Tkoi,- 
i.OPK.     12rao,  Cloth,  $l'50. 

THRILLING  ADVENTURES  OF  DAN- 
IEL ELLIS,  the  great  Union  Guide  of 
East  Tennessee,  for  a  Period  of  nearly 
Four  Y'ears,  during  the  gieat  Southern 
Rebellion.  Written  by  Himself.  Con- 
taining a  short  Biography  of  the  Author. 
Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth,  Beveled 
Edges,  $2  50. 

LIFE  AND  LIBERTY  IN  AMERICA; 
or,  Sketches  of  a  Tour  in  the  ITnited 
States  aud  Canada  in  1S57-5S,  Bv  Cuar. 
Maokay,  LL.D.,  F.S.A.  With  Ten  Il- 
lustrations.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

LIFE  IN  THE  FAR  WEST.  ByGEOKGH 
F.  RuxTON.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

LIFE  IN  THE  PRAIRIE  LAND.  By 
Mrs.  Faknuam.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  00. 

MOUNTAINS  AND  MOLEHILLS;  or, 
Recollections  of  California,  Mexico,  &c. 
By  FuANK  Makuyat.  With  numerous 
Illustrations  by  the  Author.  12mo, 
Cloth,  $1  25. 


FORTS  SUMTER  AND  MOULTRIE. 
Reminiscences  of  Forls  Sumter  and 
Moultrie,  S.  C,  in  lS(iO-'Gl.  By  Aunke 
Douui.kday,  Brevet  Major-Geueral,  U. 
S.A.     12ni(),  Cloth.     {InPress.) 

TRAVELS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 
By    Lady    EMELI^E   Woutley.     12mo, 

Cloth,  $1  50. 

ALASKA.  Travel  and  Adventure  in  the 
Territory  of  Alaska,  formerly  Russian 
America— now  Ceded  to  the  United 
States— and  in  various  Other  Parts  of 
the  North  Pacitic.  By  FiiKinuticK  WnvM- 
I'Kit.  With  Maps  and  Illustratious. 
Crown  Svo,  Cloth, $2  50. 

ADVENTURES  IN  THE  APACHE 
COUNTRY:  a  Tour  through  Arizona 
and  Sonora,  with  Notes  on  the  Silver 
Regions  of  Nevada.  By  J.  Ross  Browne. 
Illustratious.     12mo,  Cloth,  $:!  00. 

CRUSOE'S  ISLAND,  CALIFORNIA, 
&c. :  a  Ramble  in  the  Footsteps  of  Alex- 
anderSelkiik.  With  Sketches  of  Advent- 
ure in  California  aud  Washoe.  Bv  J.  Ross 
Browne.     Ill's.     12mo,  Cloth,  f'l  75. 

A  SECOND  VISIT  TO  THE  UNITED 
STATES.  By  Sir  Ciiaeleb  Lyell.  2 
vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

THE  CITY  OF  THE  SAINTS;  and 
Across  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  Califor- 
nia. By  Captain  Riouarti  F.  Burton, 
Maps  aud  numerous  Illustratious.  Svo, 
Cloth,  $3  50. 

THE  NORTHWEST  COAST ;  or.  Three 
Years'  Residence  in  Washington  Terri- 
tory. By  Jamfs  G.  Swan.  With  numer- 
ous" Illustrations.     12mo,  Cloth,  $t  50. 

THE  CONQUEST  OF  CANADA.  By 
Emot  WAUisrRTON.  2  vols.,  12mo, 
Cloth,  $3  00  ;  Half  Calf,  $6  50. 

JOURNAL  OF  A  RESIDENCE  ON  A 
GEORGIA  PLANTATION.  By  Fran- 
ces .Ann  KkjMhi.k.     12n)o,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

PARTISAN  LIFE  WITH  MOSBY.  By 
INIa.inr  John  Soott,  of  Fauquier,  Va.,  late 
C.  S.  A.  With  a  Portrait  of  Colonel 
Mosby  on  Steel  engraved  by  Halpin, 
also  one  by  Jewett,  and  nearly  50  Illus- 
trations, embracing  Portraits  of  Field 
Officers  and  Captains  of  the  Battalion, 
a  Map  of  Mosby's  Confederacy,  and  nu- 
merous spirited  Illustrations  of  Fights, 
Raids,  and  Humorous  Incidents.  Svo, 
Cloth,  Beveled  Edges,  $3  50. 

OLD  HICKS  THE  GUIDE  ;  or,  Advent- 
ures in  the  Camanche  Counlrv  in 
Search  of  a  Gold  Mine.  By  C.  W.  Wkb- 
BKR.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 


Valuable  Books  of  .Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure.      3 


THIRTY  YEARS  OF  ARMY  LlPli:  ON 
TliE  BOKDEH.  Compii^^iiiji;  Uesciip- 
tions  of  the  Indian  Nomads  of  the 
Plains:  Explorations  of  New  'i'erri lo- 
ry;  a  Trip  across  the  Rocky  Mountains 
in  the  winter:  Descriptions  of  the  Hab- 
its of  Diflerent  Animals  found  in  the 
West,  and  the  Methods  of  Hunting 
them  ;  with  Incidents  in  the  Life  of  dif- 
ferent Frontier  j\Ien,  &c.,  &c.  By  Bre- 
vet ISrig.-tJeneral  R.  B.  ISIauoy,  U.S.A. 
Svo,  Cloth,  Beveled  Edges,  %'i  Ot). 

THE  PRAIRIE  TRAVELER.  A  Hand- 
Book  for  Overland  Emigrants.  With 
Ma|)s,  Illustrations, and  Itineraries  of  tfie 
Principal  Routes  between  the  Jlissis- 
sippi  and  the  Pacific.  Bv  Brevet  Brig.- 
General  R.  B.  Mauoy,  U.  S.  A.  Piib- 
lished  by  Authority  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment.    lOino,  Cloth,  $1  00. 

BORDER  REMINISCENCES.  Bv  Brevet 
Brig.-Genieral  R.  B.  Maiiov,  U.  S.  A.  Il- 
lustrations.    I'imo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

FOREST  LIFE  AND  FOREST  TREES. 
Coinpi'ising  Winter  Camp-Life  among 
the  Loggers,  and  Wild-wood  Adventure". 
With  Descriptions  ofLuinbering  Opera- 
tions on  the  various  Rivers  of  Maine 
and  New  Brunswick.  By  J.  S.  Spuing- 
EU.     Illustrations.     12mo,  Cloth,  $15  0. 

THE  EXPEDITION  OF  CAPTAINS 
LEWIS  AND  CLARKE  ACROSS  THE 
ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  and  to  the 
Mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  Illustra- 
tions.   2  vols.,  ISmo,  Cloth,  f  1  50. 

MARCO  PAUL'S  VOYAGES  AND 
TRAVELS  IN  THE  PURSUIT  OF 
KNOWLEDGE.  By  Jaooh  Aiiiiorr. 
Illustrations.  Complete  in  6  vols., 
]6mo.  Cloth,  90  cents  each. 

In  New  York.— On  the  Erie  Canal. 
— In  the  Forests  of  JNIaine.— lu  Ver- 
mont.—In  Boston.— At  the  Springfield 
A  rmory. 

PICTORIAL  FIELD-BOOK  OF  THE 
REVOLUTION;  or,  Illustrations  by 
Pen  and  Pencil  of  the  History,  Biogra- 
phy, Scenery,  Relics,  and  Traditions  of 
the  War  for  Independence.  By  Bknson 
J.  LossiNG.  2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $14  00  ; 
Sheep,  $15  00;  Half  Calf,  $18  00 ;  Full 
Turkey  Morocco,  Gilt  Edges,  $22  00. 

PICTORIAL  FIELD-BOOK  OF  THE 
WAR  OF  1S12;  or,  Illustrations  by  Pen 
and  Pencil  of  the  History,  Biography, 
Scenery,  Relics,  and  Traditions  of  tlie 
last  War  for  American  Independence. 
By  BivNSON  J.  LosfiiNO.  With  8S2  Illus- 
trations, engraved  on  Wood  by  Lossing 
&  Barritt,  chiefly  from  Ori'j-iual  Sketch- 
es by  the  Author.  Complete  in  One 
Volume,  10S4  pages,  lartre  Svo.  Price, 
in  Cloth.  $7  00;  Sheep,  $8  ."iO;  Full  Roan, 
$9  00;  Half  Calf  or  Half  Morocco  ex- 
tra, SIOOO;  Full  Morocco,  Gilt  Edges, 
$12  on. 


OREGON  AND  CALIFORNIA  IN  1S48. 
With  an  Appendix,  including  Recent 
and  Aulheniic  Infoiinatioii  on  the  Sub- 
ject of  the  Gold  Mines  of  Califiifnia, 
and  other  Valuable  Matter  of  Interest 
to  the  Emigiaiit.  By  Judge  J.  Qdinn 
Tiiou.N'toN.  Willi  Illu.-tratidns  and  a 
Map.     2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $D  00. 

THE  LIFE  AND  ADVENTURES  OF 
JAMES  P.  BECKWOURTII,  Mount- 
aineer, Soldier,  and  Pioneer,  and  Chief 
of  the  Crow  Indians.  Written  from  his 
own  Dictation  by  T.  D.  Bonnkr.  With 
Illustrations.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

FOUR  YEARS  IN  THE  SADDLE.  By 
Hakry  Gii.mok.     12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

MY  DIARY  NORTH  AND  SOUTH.  By 
Wii.i.iAM  IlowAiU)  Uussii.i,,  LL.D.  Svo, 

Cloth,  $1  00. 

BRITISH  AMERICA.  Historical  and 
Descriptive  Account  of  British  Amer- 
ica ;  compreliending  the  Canadas,  No- 
va Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  Newfound- 
land, Prince  Edward  Island,  the  Bermu- 
das, and  the  Fur  Countries:  iheir  His- 
tory from  the  Earliest  Settlement— their 
Statistics,  Topography,  Commerce, 
Fisheiies,  Social  and  Political  Condi- 
tion ;  also  au  Account  of  the  Manners 
and  Present  State  of  the  Aboriginal 
Tribes.  Bv  Hugh  MimuAY.  Illustra- 
tions.   2  vols.,  ISmo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

AMERICAN  ADVENTURE  BY  LAND 
AND  SEA:  being  remarkable  Instan- 
ces of  Enterprise  and  Fortitude  among 
Americans;  Indian  Captures,  Ship- 
wrecks, Adventures  at  Home  and 
Abroad,  &c.  By  Ei'iis  Sargent.  2  vols., 
ISmo,  Cloth,  $1 50. 

EL  GRINGO ;  or.  New  Mexico  and  her 
People.  By  W.  W.  H.  Davis,  late  Unit- 
ed States  Attorney.  ]2mo,  Cloth, 
$1  50. 

MEXICO.  Adventuies  in  Mexico  and  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  By  Gkouge  F.  Rcx- 
■lON.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

MEXICO:  our  Next-Door  Neighbor.  Re- 
cent Sketches  of  Mexico.  By  the  Rev. 
Gii.hkrt  Haven,  D.  D.,  Bishop  in  the 
M.  E.  Church.  With  Maps  and  Illustra- 
tions.    Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

VAGABOND    LIFE    IN    MEXICO.     By 

Gauriki.  Fjcrry,  for  Seven  Years  resident 
ill  that  Country.     :2mo.  Cloth,  $1  50. 

MEXICO :  its  Peasants  and  its  Priests :  or, 
Adventures  and  Historical  Researches  in 
Mexico  and  its  SilverMines  during  Parts 
of  the  Years  1S51,  '5-J,  '53,  '54,  with  an  Ex- 
pose of  the  Fabulous  Character  of  the 
Story  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico  by 
Corlez.  By  Roisicet  A.  Wilson,  late 
judge  of  Sacramento  District,  Califor- 
nia. With  Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth, 
$1  50. 


4      Valuable  Books  of  Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure. 


CENTRAL     AMERICA. 


ADVENTURES  OP  A  YOUNG  NATU- 
KALIST.  By  Liioien  Biabt.  Edited  and 
Adapted  by  Pakkek  Gillmobe.  With 
IIT  lUustralions.    12mo,  Cloth,  |1  75. 

EXPLOKATIONS  AND  ADVENTURES 
IN  HONDURAS:  comi)nsiug  Sl^etches 
of  Travel  in  theGold  RegionsofOlaucho, 
and  a  Review  of  the  History  and  Gen- 
eral Resources  of  Central  America. 
With  Maps  and  Illustrations.  By  Will- 
iam V.Wells.    8vo,  Cloth,  |3  50. 

NICARAGUA:  its  People,  Scenery,  Mon- 
uments, Resources,  Condition,  and  Pro- 
posed Canal.  With  One  Hundred  Maps 
and  Illustrations.  By  E.  G.  Squieb. 
8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00  :  Half  Calf,  $0  25. 

WAIKNA  ;  or.  Adventures  on  the  Mos- 
quito Shore.  By  E.  G.  Squiek.  With 
a  Map  of  the  Mosquito  Shore,  and  up- 
ward of  Sixty  Original  Illustrations. 
12ino,  Cloth,  $1 50. 


THE  STATES  OF  CENTRAL  AMER- 
ICA :  their  Geography,  Topography, 
Climate,  Population,  Resources,  Produc- 
tions, Commerce,  Political  Organiza- 
tion, Aborigines,  &c.,  &c.  Comprising 
Chapters  on  Honduras,  San  Salvador, 
Nicaragua,  Costa  Rica,  Guatemala,  Be- 
lize, the  Baylslauds,  the  Mosquito  Shore, 
and  the  Honduras  Inter-Oceanic  Rail- 
way. By  E.  G.  Squieu,  formerly  Charg6 
d'Affaires  of  the  United  States  to  the 
Republics  of  Central  America.  With  nu- 
merous Original  Maps  and  Illustratious. 
Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00. 

TRAVELS  IN  CENTRAL  AMERICA, 
CHIAPAS,  AND  YUCATAN.  By  J.  L. 
Stephens.  With  a  Map  and  83  Illustra- 
tions.    2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $6  00. 

TRAVELS  IN  YUCATAN.  By  J.  L. 
Stephens.  1'2(i  Illustrations,  from  Di-a\v- 
ings  by  P.  Catiierwood.  2  vols.,  Svo, 
Cloth,  $G  GO. 


SOUTH     AMERICA. 


THE  ANDES  AND  THE  AMAZON ;  or. 
Across  the  Continent  of  South  Amer- 
ica. By  James  Orton,  M.  A.  Third 
Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged,  contain- 
ing Notes  of  a  Second  Journey  across 
the  Continent  from  Para  to  Lima  and 
Lake  Titicaca.  With  two  Maps  and 
numerous  Illustratious.  Crown  8vo, 
Cloth,  $3  00. 

LIFE  IN  BRAZIL;  or,  A  Journal  of  a 
Visit  to  the  Land  of  the  Cocoa  and  the 
Palm.  With  an  Appendix,  containing 
Illustrations  of  Ancient  and  South 
American  Arts,  in  recently  discovered 
Implements  and  Products  of  Domestic 
Industry,  and  Works  in  Stone,  Pottery, 
Gold,  Silver,  Bronze,  &c.  By  Thomas 
EwiiANK.  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$3  00 ;  Half  Calf,  $5  25. 

PANAMA  IN  1S55:  an  Account  of  the 
Panama  Railroad,  of  the  Cities  of  Pan- 
ama and  Aspinwall,  with  Sketches  of 
Life  and  Character  on  the  Isthmus.  By 
RoisEBT  Tomes,  M.D.  Illustratious. 
IGmo,  Cloth,  75  cents. 


NEW  GRANADA  :  Twenty  Months  in 
the  Andes.  By  I.  F.  Holton.  Illustra- 
tions. Maps,  and  a  copious  Index.  Svo, 
Cloth,  $3  00  ;  Half  Calf,  $5  25. 

LA  PLATA,  the  Argentine  Confederation, 
and  Paraguay.  Being  a  Narrative  of 
the  Exploration  of  the  Tributaries  of 
the  River  La  Plata  and  adjacent  Coun- 
tries during  the  Years  1853,  '54,  '55,  and 
'50,  under  the  Orders  of  the  United  States 
Government.  New  Edition,  containing 
Fartlier  Explorations  in  La  Plata,  made 
during  the  years  1  "^59  and  18C0,  under  the 
Orders  of  "the  Iniied  States  Govern- 
ment. By  TnoM4s  J.  Page,  U.  S.  N., 
Commander  of  the  Expedition.  With 
Map  and  numerous  Illustratious.  Svo, 
Cloth,  $5  00. 

CHILI:  the  Araucaniaus;  or.  Notes  of  a 
Tour  among  the  Indian  Tribes  of  South- 
ern Chili.  By  Edmund  Reuel  Smith,  of 
the  U.S.N.  Astronomical  Expedition  in 
Chili.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 


EUROPE. 


OLD  ROME  AND  NEW  ITALY.  By 
Emii.io  Castei.ab.  Translated  by  Mrs. 
Artuuk  Arnold.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

THE  OLD  WORLD  IN  ITS  NEW  PACE: 
Impressions  of  Europe  in  1807-1S6S.  By 
Henry  W.  Bellows.  2  vols.,  12mo, 
Cloth,  $3.50. 

A  SUMMER  IN  SCOTLAND.  By  Jacoi! 
Auhott.  Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth, 
$1  75. 


SWEDEN  AND  NORWAY:  THE  LAND 
OP  THE  MIDNIGHT  SUN.  By  Paul 
B.  Du  Chaillu.  Magniticently  illustra- 
ted with  Maps  and  Engravings  by  Mr. 
W^hymper,  from  the  Author's  Photo- 
graphs and  Sketches.  {In  Preparation.) 

THE  KNOUT  AND  THE  RUSSIANS :  or. 
The  Muscovite  Empire.the  Czar,  and  his 
People.  Bv  (tkrmain  de  Laqnt.  Illus- 
trations.    i2mo,  Cloth,  $1  25. 


Valuable  Books  of  Exploratmi,  Travel,  and  Adventure.      5 


TRAVELS  IN  EUROPE.  Raudom  Sketch- 
es aud  Notes  of  Europeau  Travel  in 
1S56.  By  Rev.  John  E.  Edwards,  A.M. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

THE  AMERICAN  IN  ENGLAND.  By 
Alexander  Slidei.i.  Mackenzie,  U.S.N. 
2  vols.,  l'2mo,  Cloth,  $'2  50. 

OUEEN  VICTORIA'S  JOURNAL  OF 
LIFE  IN  THE  HIGHLANDS,  FROM 
1S43  TO  1861.  To  which  are  prefixed 
and  added  Extracts  froru  the  same 
Journal  giving  an  Account  of  Earlier 
Visits  to  Scothuul,  and  Tours  in  Eng- 
land and  Ireland,  and  Yatching  Excur- 
sions. Edited  by  Abtuub  Heli-b. 
l'2mo,  Morocco  Cloth,  Beveled  Edges, 
$1T5. 

FRED  MARKHAM  IN  RUSSIA;  or. 
The  Boy  Travelers  in  the  Laud  of  the 
Czar.  By  W.  H.  G.  Kingsion.  Illus- 
trations.   Small  4to,  Cloth,  75  cents. 

FREE  RUSSIA.  By  W.  Hepworth  Dixon, 
Author  of  "Her  Majesty's  Tower," &c. 
With  Two  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo, 
Cloth,  $2  00. 

GLIMPSES  OF  SPAIN  ;  or.  Notes  of  an 
Unlinished  Tour  in  lS-t7.  By  S.  T. 
'Wai.lis.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50  ;  Half  Calf, 
$3  -25. 

A  YEAR  IN  SPAIN.  By  Alexander 
Si-iuELi,  Mackenzie,  U.  S.  N.  Illus- 
trations.    Svols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  75. 

SPAIN  REVISITED.  By  Alexander 
Si.iDicLL  Mackenzie,  U.  S.  N.  Illus- 
trations.    2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

LIFE  IN  SPAIN  :  Past  and  Present.  By 
Wai.tkrThobnuury.  12mo,Cloth,  $1  50. 

PILLARS  OF  HERCULES  ;  or,  A  Narra- 
tive of  Travels  in  Spain  and  Morocco 
in  "184S.  By  David  UuCjiuiARr,  M.  P.  2 
vols.,"l2mo.  Cloth,  $3  00. 

MADEIRA,  PORTUGAL,  AND  THE 
ANDA.LUSIAS.  Sketches  and  Advent- 
ures in  Madeira,  Portugal,  and  the  An- 
dalusias  of  Spain.  By  the  Author  of 
"Daniel  Webster"  and  his  Contempo- 
raries.  Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

AN  AMERICAN  FAMILY  IN  GER- 
MANY: By  J.Ross  Browne.  Illus- 
trations.    12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00 


THE  LAND  OP  THOR.  By  J.  Ross 
Browne.  Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth, 
$2  00. 

ENGLISH  TRAVELERS  AND  ITALIAN 
BRIGANDS.  A  Narrative  of  Capture 
and  Captivity.  ByW.JCMoENS.  II- 
lustraticnis.    12mo,  Cloth,  %\  i5. 

MODERN  GREECE ;  a  Narrative  of  a 
Residence  and  Travels  in  that  Country. 
With  Observations  on  its  Antiquities, 
Literature,  Language,  Politics  and  Re- 
ligion By  Henry  M.  Baird,  M.  A.  Nu- 
merous Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth,  |1  50. 


THE  HUGUENOTS  IN  FRANCE  AFT- 
ER THE  REVOCATION  of  the  Edict 
of  Names;  with  a  Visit  to  the  Country 
of  the  Vaudois.  By  Samuel  Smiles,  Au- 
thor of  "Tlie  Hugueuots:  their  Settle- 
ments, Churches,  and  Industries  in  Eng- 
land aud  Ireland,"  "  Self-Help,"  "  Char- 
acter," "Life  of  the  Stephensons,"  i&e. 
CrownSvo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

FRANCE,  Social,  Literary,  and  Political. 
By  Sir  Henry  Lvtton  Bulweb.  12mo, 
Cloth,  II  50. 

TRAVELS  IN  GREECE,  Turkey,  Russia, 
aud  Poland.  By  J.  L.  Stei-uens.  Illus- 
trations.   2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

ATHENS,  ITS  RISE  AND  FALL:  with 
Views  of  the  Literature,  Philosophy,  and 
Social  Life  of  the  Athenian  People. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

SIGHTS  &  SENSATIONS  IN  FRANCE, 
GERMANY,  AND  SWITZERLAND: 
or,  Experiences  of  an  American  Jourual- 
ist  in  Europe.  By  Edward  Gould  Buf- 
FUM.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

TRI-COLORED  SKETCHES  IN  PARIS. 
duriii"-  the  Years  1851-2-3.  With  numer- 
ous IlTustrations.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

OX  THE  TRAIL  OF  THE  GERMAN 
AND  FRENCH  WAR.  By  Alexander 
Innes  Suand,  Occasional  Corresponent 
of  the  Z/OMdo/i  Times.  With  illustrations. 
8vo,  Paper,  35  cents. 

ITALIAN  SIGHTS  AND  PAPAL  PRIN- 
CIPLES SEEN  THROUGH  AMERI- 
CAN SPECTACLES.  By  James  Jack- 
son Jabves.  Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth, 
$1  50. 

PARISIAN  SIGHTS  AND  FRENCH 
PRINCIPLES  seen  through  American 
Spectacles.  By  James  0  aokson  Jarves. 
Illustrations.    r2mo,  Chjth,  $1  50. 

PARISIAN  SIGHTS  AND  FRENCH 
PRINCIPLES  seen  through  American 
Spectacles.  Second  Series.  By  James 
Jackson  Jarves.  Illustrations.  12mo, 
Cloth,  $1  50. 

MEN  AND  THINGS  AS  I  SAW  THEM 
IN  EUROPE.  By  Kibwan.  12mo,  Cloth, 
$150. 

EUROPEAN  ACQUAINTANCE :  being 
Sketches  of  People  in  Europe.  By  J. 
W.  1)e  Forest.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 


DORg.  Bv  a  Stroller  in  Europe.  12mo, 
Cloth,  $1  50. 

LETTERS  FROM  ABROAD  TO  KIN- 
DRED AT  HOME.  By  Miss  Catharine 
M.  Sedcuvick.  2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth, 
$3  00. 

THE  PRIVATE  JOURNAL  OF  AARON 
BURR,  during  his  Residence  of  Four 
Years  in  Europe;  with  Selections  trom 
his  Correspondence.  Edited  by  M.  L. 
Davib.     2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  ^  00. 


6       Valuable  Books  of  Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure. 


ASIA. 


THE  LAND  OF  THE  WHITE  ELE- 
PHANT: Sights  and  Scenes  in  S'liith- 
easieiii  Asia.  A  Personal  Narrative  of 
Travel  and  Aclveutuie  in  Farther  India, 
embraciiii;-  tlie  Countries  of  Burma, 
Siam,  Cambodia,  and  Cocliin  -  China 
(18V1-5).  By  Fkank  Vincent,  Jr.  Mag- 
niticeuMy  Illustrated  with  Maps,  Plans, 
and  numerous  Woodcuts.  Crown  Svo, 
Clotli,  13  50. 

THE  STRAITS  OF  MALACCA,  INDO- 
CHINA, AND  CHINA;  or,  Ten  Years' 
Travels,  Adventures,  and  Residence 
Abroad.  By  J.  Thomson,  F.R.G.S.,.Au- 
thor  of  "Ilhistralions  of  Cliina  and  its 
People."  With  over  60  Illustrations 
from  the  Author's  own  Photographs  and 
Sketches.    Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00. 

THE  MIKADO'S  EMPIRE.  By  W.  E. 
GiuiFiB.    (la  Press.) 

CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE:  a  Gen- 
eral Description  of  the  Country  and 
its  Inhal)itants ;  its  Civilization  and 
Form  of  Government ;  its  Religious  and 
Social  Institutions  :  its  Intercourse  with 
other  Nations;  and  its  Present  Con- 
dition and  Prospects.  By  the  Rev. 
John  L.  Nkvids,  Ten  Years  a  Missiou- 
aiy  in  China.  With  a  Map  and  Illus- 
trations.    12nio,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

SOCIAL  LIFE  OF  THE  CHINESE  :  witit 
some  Account  of  their  Religions,  Gov- 
ernmental. Educational,  and  Business 
Customs  and  Opini(Uis.  With  Special 
but  not  exclusive  Reference  to  Fnhchau. 
By  Rev.  Jisriis  Dooi.ittt.i-.,  Fourteen 
Years  Member  of  the  Fnhchau  Mission 
of  the  .'\nierican  Board.  Illustrations. 
2  vols.,V2mo,Cloth,  $5  00 ;  Half  Calf,  $S  50. 

HISTORY  OF  CHINA.  A  General  De- 
scription of  the  Empire  of  China  and  its 
Inhabitants.  By  John  F.  D.vvis,  F.R.S. 
Mai)  'W(\  Illustrations.  2  vols.,  ISmo, 
Cloth,  $1  50. 

THE  CONSULAR  CITIES  OF  CHINA. 
A  Narrative  of  an  Exploratory  Visit 
to  each  of  the  Consular  Cities  of  China, 
and  to  the  Islands  of  Hong-Kong  and 
Chusan,in  Behalf  of  the  Churih  Mis- 
sionary Society,  in  the  Years  1544-46. 
By  Rev.  G.  Smith.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

A  JOURNEY  THROUGH  TUK  CIII- 
NE.SE  EMPIRE.  Bv  M.  Ht.o.  With 
Map.     2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $a  dO. 

ARMENIA  AND  ERZEROOM.  Arme- 
nia: A  Year  at  Erzeroom,  and  on  the 
Frontiers  of  Rn.ssia,  Turkey,  and  Persia. 
Bv  the  Hon.  Roju.rt Chr/.on.     INIapand 

IUustrati(nis.      12mo,  Cloth,  $1  25. 

YU^EF:  or.  The  Journey  of  the  Fiangi. 
Bv  J.  RoRs  BiiowNE.  Illustrations.  12nio, 
Cloth,  $1  75. 


CAMPAIGNING  ON  THE  OXUS,  and 
tlie  Fall  of  Khiva.  By  J.  A.  MacGahan. 
With  Map  and  Illustratious.  Crown 
Svo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

THE  CAPITAL  OF  THE  TYCOON  :  a 
Narrative  of  a  Three  Years'  Residence 
in  Japan.  By  Sir  Rltukkfoki)  Ai.oooic, 
K.C.B.,  Her  Majesty's  Envoy  Extraor- 
dinary and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  iu 
Japan.  With  Maps  and  Illustrations. 
2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  OP  THE 
JAPANESE  IN  THE  NINETEENTH 
CENTURY.  Frcun  the  Accounts  of 
Recent  Dutch  Residence  in  Japan, 
and  from  the  German  Work  of  Dr. 
Ph.  Fii.  Von  Sieuold.  18mo,  Cloth,  75 
cents. 

NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EARL  OF  EL- 
(^IN'S  MISSION  TO  CHINA  AND 
JAPAN,  in  the  Years  1S57,  '.'58,  '50.  By 
Lauisinoe  Olii'hant,  Private  Secretary 
to  Lord  Elgin.  Illustratious.  Svo, 
Cloth,  $3  50. 

FANKWEI;  or.  The  San  Jacinto  iu  the 
Seas  of  India,  China,  and  Japan.  By 
Wii.i.tAM  Maxvvi.;i,i.Wooi),M.D.,  U.S.N., 
late  Surgeon  of  the  Fleet  to  the  United 
States  East  India  Squadron.  12mo, 
Cloth,  fl  .'.O. 

TRAVELS  IN  CENTRAL  ASIA:  being 
the  Account  of  a  Journey  from  Teheran 
across  the  Turkoman  Desert,  on  the 
Eastern  Shore  of  the  Caspian,  to  Kliiva, 
Bokhara,  and  Samaicand,  performed  in 
the  Year  1863.  By  AitMiNius  VXMiiiiiiv, 
Member  of  the  Hungai-ian  Academy  of 
Pesth,  by  whom  he  was  sent  on  this 
Scieutilic  Mission.  With  Map  and  Wood- 
cuts. Svo,  Cloth,  14  50 ;  Half  Calf, 
$6  75. 

MEMOIR  OF  THE  REV.  JOHN  SCUD- 
DER,  M.D.,  Thirty-six  Years  Mission- 
ary in  India.  By  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Wateu- 
nuKv,  D.D.  Portrait.  12rno,  Cloth, 
II  75. 

HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  AC- 
COUNT OF  BRITISH  INDIA.  By 
Hugh  Murray,  James  Wii.son.  R.  K. 
Grevii.i.e,  LL.D.,W.  Ai?<8i.ie,  M.D.,Wm. 
Rhini),  Prof.  Jameson,  Prof.  Wallace, 
and  Captain  Clarence  Dalkvmi-lic. 
Illustratious.  3  vols.,  18mo,  Cloth, 
$2  25. 

ORIENTAL  AND  WESTERN  SIBE- 
RIA: a  Narrative  of  Seven  Y'ears'  Ex- 
plorations and  Adventures  in  Siberia, 
Mongolia,  the  Kirghis  Steppes,  Chinese 
Tartliry,  :ind  Part  of  Central  Asia.  By 
Thomas  Witi.am  Atkinson.  With  a 
Map  and  numerous  Illustratious.  Svo, 
Cloth,  13  50. 


Valuable  Books  of  Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure. 


TRAVELS  IN  THE  REGIONS  OF  THE 
UFPKlt  AND  LOWER  AMoOR,  iiud  the 
Russian  Acquisitions  on  tlie  Contiues 
of  India  and  Oliiiia.  With  Adveuluies 
amou'j;  the  Mountain  Kirjjliis,  and  the 
Manjoui's,  Manyarys,  Toun^ous,  Tmi- 
zenits,  Goldi,  and  Galyaks,  the  Huntin;; 
and  Pastoral  Tribes.  "  By  Thomas  Wit- 
I.AM  A  rKiNSoN,  F.G.S.,  F.R.G.S.  With  a 
Map  and  numerous  Ill's.  Svo,Cloth,$3  50. 

MARCO  POLO'S  TRAVELS:  S'eatly 
amended  and  enlarged  from  valuable 
early  Manus('ripts  i)i\blished  by  the 
French  Society  of  Geoi;raphy,  and  in 
Italy  bv  Count  Baldelli  Boni.  Wilh 
coi)ious"  Notes,  Illustrating  the  Routes 
and  01)servatioua  oi  the  Author,  and 
coniparinL?  them  with  those  of  more 
recent  Travelers.  By  Huen  Muiirav. 
F.R.S.E.  Maps  and  a  Vignette.  ISmo, 
Cloth,  15  cents. 


HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  AC- 
COUNT OP  PERSIA,  with  a  Detailed 
View  of  its  Resources,  Government, 
Poi'.ulation,  Natural  History,  and  the 
Character  of  its  Inhabitants,  partic- 
ularly of  the  WanderingTribes  :  includ- 
ing a  Description  of  Afghanistan  and 
Beloocliistan.  By  J.  Baii.hu  Fuabf.u. 
ISino,  Cloth,  75  cents. 

HISTORY  OF  MES0P0TA:\IIA  AND 
ASSYRIA,  from  the  Earliest  Ages  to  the 
Present  Time.  By  J.  Bailme  Fraseu. 
ISuio,  Cloth,  75  cents. 

REINDEER,  DOGS,  AND  SNOW- 
SHOES:  a  Journal  of  Silierian  Travel 
and  Explorations  made  in  the  Years 
1S65-'G7.  By  Rioiiaud  J.  Busii,  late  of 
the  Russo-American  Telegra|)h  Expedi- 
tion. Illustrations.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth, 
$3  00. 


AFRICA. 


THE  LAST  JOURNALS  OF  DAVID 
LIVINGSTONE,  in  Central  Africa,  from 
18(j6  to  his  Death.  Continued  by  a 
Narrative  of  his  Last  Moments  and 
Sufteriugs,  obtained  from  his  Faithful 
Servants  Chumah  and  Susi.  By  Hor- 
kaoe  Wai.i.kk,  F.R.G.S.,  Rector  ofTwy- 
well,  Northampton.  With  ,AIaps  and 
Illustrations.  Library  Edition, Svo,Cloth, 
$5  00;  Slieep,  $(5  00;  Half  Calf,  $7  25. 
Cheap,  Popular  Edition,  Crown  Svo, 
Cloth, with  Map  and  Illustrations,  $2  50. 

MISSIONARY  TRAVELS  AND  RE- 
SEARCHES IN  SOUTH  AFRICA;  in- 
cluding a  Sketch  of  Sixteen  Years'  Kesi- 
dence  in  the  Interior  of  Africa,  and  a 
Journey  from  the 'Cape  of  Good  Hope 
to  Loando  on  the  West  Coast;  thence 
across  the  Continent,  down  the  River 
Zambesi,  to  the  Eastern  Ocean.  By 
Daviii  Livingstone,  LL.D.,  D.C.L.  With 
Portrait,  Maps  by  Arrowsniith,  and  nu- 
merous Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth,  %i  50  ; 
Sheep,  fo  00  ;  Half  Calf,  10  75. 

NARRATIVE  OF  AN  EXPEDITION  TO 
THE  ZAMBESI  AND  ITS  TRIBUTA- 
RIES ;  and  of  the  Discovery  of  the 
Lakes  Shirwa  and  Nyassa.  1858-1SG4. 
By  David  and  Chakles  Livingsto.ne. 
With  Map  and  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$5  00  ;  Sheep,  $5  50  ;  Half  Calf,  $7  25. 

THE  LAKE  REGIONS  OF  CENTRAL 
AFRICA.  A  Picture  of  E.xploration. 
By  Captain  IiIOUarh  P.  BrinoN.  Fellow 
and  Gold  Meil.ilist  of  the  Royal  Geo- 
graphical Societies  of  France  and  Eng- 
land. Maps  and  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$3  50. 

WESTERN  AFRICA:  its  Historj',  Con- 
dition, and  Prospect.a.  By  the  Rev.  J. 
LEiGinoN  Wii.soM,  Eighteen  Years  a 
Missionary  in  Africa,  Jind  now  one  of 
the  Secret.-iries  of  the  Presbyterian 
Board  of  Foi-eign  Missions,  with  nu- 
merous Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 


ISMAILIA:  a  Narrative  of  the  Expedi- 
tion to  Central  Africa  for  the  Suppres- 
sion of  the  Slave-Trade,  organized  by 
Ismail,  Khedive  of  Egvi't.  By  Sir 
Samcki,  White  Baker,  Pasiia,  F.R.S., 
F.R.G.S.  With  Maps,  Portraits,  and 
upward  of  50  lull-page  Illustrations  by 
Zwecker  and  Duiand.    Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

THE  HEART  OF  AFRICA;  or,  Three 
Years'  Travels  and  Adventures  in  the 
Unexplored  Regions  of  the  Centre  of 
Africa.  Fom  1S08  to  IS71.  By  Dr. 
Geoicg  SonwEiNFURTH.  Tiauslated  by 
Ellen  E.  Fkewer.  With  an  Introduc- 
tion by  WiNvvooD  Rkadi:.  Illustrated 
bv  about  130  Woodcuts  from  Drawings 
inade  bv  the  Author,  and  with  Two 
Maps.     2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  SS  00. 

WESTERN  AFRICA  :  being  the  Narr.v 
tive  of  a  Tour  in  Equatorial,  Southwest- 
ern, and  Northwestern  Africa;  wilh 
Notes  on  the  Habits  of  the  Gorilla;  on 
the  Existence  of  Unicorns  and  Tailed 
Men;  on  the  Slave-Trade;  on  tlieOri^Hn, 
Character,  and  Capabilities  of  the  Ne- 
gro, and  on  the  Future  Civili/alion  of 
Western  Africa.  By  W.  Winwood 
Reade,  Fellow  of  the  Geographical  and 
Anthropological  Society  of  London,  and 
Correspoudinsr  Member  of  the  Geograph- 
ical Society  of  Paris.  With  Illustrations 
and  a  Map.  Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00  ;  Sheep, 
$4  50;  Half  Calf,  $0  25. 

TRAVELS  IN  EGYPT,  ARABIA  PE- 
TR^A.  AND  ,THE  HOLY  LAND.  By 
J.  L.  Stf.phens.  Illustrations.  2  vols., 
12mo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

COOMASSIB  AND  MAGDALA  :  a  Story 
of  Two  British  Campaiirns  in  Africa.  By 
Hi'.^RV  M.Stanley.  With  Maps  and 
Illustrations.    Svo,  Cloth,  *3  .-io. 

DISCOVERY  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 
AFRICA.  By  Professor  Jameson,  James 
Wilson,  and  HuQii  Morrav.  ISino, 
Cloth,  75  cents. 


8      Valuable  Books  of  Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure. 


EXPLORATIONS  AND  ADVENTURES 
IN  EQUATORIAL  AFRICA  :  with  ac- 
counts of  tlie  Mauiiers  and  Customs  of 
the  People,  and  of  the  Chase  of  the 
Gorilhi,  the  Crocodile,  Leopard,  Ele- 
phant, Hippotamns,  and  other  Animals. 
By  Pahi,  B.  D0  CuAiLi,tj,  Corresponding 
Member  of  the  American  Ethnological 
Society;  of  the  Geographical  and  Stat- 
istical Society  of  New  Yoik ;  and  of  the 
Boston  Society  of  Natural  History.  Il- 
lustrations.    Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

A  JOURNEY  TO  ASHANGO  LAND,  and 

Further  Penetration  into  Equatorial  Af- 
rica. By  Padl  B.  Du  Cii.wllu.  New  Edi- 
tion,   illustrations.    Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

STORIES  OF  THE  GORILLA  COUN- 
TRY. By  Paul  B.  Du  CitAii.LU.  Illus- 
trations.    I'inio,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

WILD  LIFE  UNDER  THE  EQUATOR. 
By  Paul  B.  Dir  Cuaillu.  Illustrations. 
l'2mo.  Cloth,  $1  50. 

LOST  IN  THE  JUNGLE.  By  Paul  B. 
Du  Chaillu.     Ill's.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

MY  APINGI  KINGDOM:  with  Life  in 
the  Great  Sahara,  and  Sketches  of  the 
Chase  of  the  Ostrich,  Hyena,  &c.  By 
Paul  B.  Du  Chaillu.  Illustratious. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

THE  COUNTRY  OF  THE  DWARFS.  By 
Paul  B.  Du  Chaillu.  Illustratious. 
l'2nio,  Cloth,  SI  50. 

SUB -TROPICAL  RAMBLES  IN  THE 
LAND  OP  THE   APHANAPTERYX : 

Personal  Experiences,  Adventures,  and 
Wanderings  in  and  about  the  Island  of 
Mauritius.  By  Nicholas  Pike.  Hand- 
somely Illustrated.  Grown  Svo,  Clolh, 
$3  50. 

AFRICAN  HUNTING,  from  Natal  to  the 
Zambesi,  including  Lake  Ngami,  the 
Kalahari  Desert,  &c.,  from  1852  to  1800. 
By  William  Chas.  Baldwin,  F.R.G.S. 
With  Map,  50  Illustrations  by  Wolf  and 
Zwecker,  and  a  Portrait  of  the  Great 
Sportsman.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

FIVE  YEARS  OF  A  HUNTER'S  LIFE 
IN  THE  FAR  INTERIOR  OF  SOUTH 
AFRICA.  With  Notices  of  the  Native 
Tribes  and  Anecdotes  of  the  Chase  of 
the  Lion,  Elejjhant,  Hippopotamus,  Gi- 
raffe, Rhinoceros,  &c.  Illustrations.  By 
R.  Gordon  Cu.mming.  2  vols.,  12nio, 
Cloth,  $3  no. 

BOAT-LIFE  IN  EGYPT  AND  NUBIA. 
Bv  William  C.  Prime.  Illustrations. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00  ;  Half  Morocco,  $3  75. 

TRAVELS  AND  DISCOVERIES  IN 
NORTH  AND  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 
Being  a  Journal  of  an  Expedition  un- 
dertaken under  the  Auspices  of  H.B.M.'s 
Government  in  the  Years  1849-1855.  By 
Hi-.NRv  Bap.th,  Ph.D.,  D.C.L.  Profusely 
and  Elegantly  Illustrated.  Complete  iii 
3  vols.,  Svo, Cloth,  $12  00 ;  Sheep,  $13  50 : 
Half  Calf,  $18  T5. 


LAKE  NGAMI ;  or.  Explorations  and  Dis- 
coveries during  Four  Years'  Wanderings 
in  the  Wilds  of  Southwestern  Africa.  By 
CiiAULES  John  Andeksbon.  With  numer- 
ous Illustrations  representing  Sporting 
Adventures,  Subjects  of  Natural  History, 
Devices  for  Destroying  Wild  Animals, 
&c.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  76. 

THE  OKAVANGO  RIVER  :  a  Narrative 
of  Travel,  Exploration,  and  Adventure. 
By  CiiAKLKS  JouN  Andeusson.  With 
Steel  Portrait  of  the  Author,  numerous 
Illustrations,  and  a  Map  showing  the 
Regions  explored  by  Andersson,  Cuin- 
ming,  Livingstone,  and  Du  Chaillu.  Svo, 
Cloth,  $3  25. 

CARTHAGE  AND  HER  REMAINS  : 
being  an  Account  of  the  Excavations 
and  Researches  on  the  Site  of  the  Phoe- 
nician Metropolis,  in  Africa  and  other 
Adjacent  Places.  Conducted  under  the 
Auspices  of  Her  Majesty's  Government. 
By  Dr.  N.  Davis,  F.R.G.S.  Profusely 
Illustrated  with  Maps,  Woodcuts,  Chro- 
mo- Lithographs,  &c.,  &c.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$4  00  ;  Haif  Calf,  $6  25. 

THREE  VISITS  TO  MADAGASCAR, 
during  the  Years  1853,  1S54,  1850.  In- 
cluding a  Journey  to  the  Capital,  with 
Notices  of  the  Natural  History  of  the 
Country,  and  of  the  Present  Civili/ation 
of  the  People.  By  the  Rev.  William 
Ellis,  P.H.S.  Illus'trated  by  a  Map  and 
Woodcuts  from  Photographs,  &c.  Svo, 
Cloth,  $3  50;  Half  Calfr$5  75. 

NILE  NOTES  OF  A  HOWADJL  By 
Georoe  Wm.  Curtis.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

JOURNAL  OF  A  VISIT  TO  EGYPT, 
Constantinople,  the  Crimea,  Greece,  &c., 
in  the  Suite  of  the  Prince  and  Princess 
of  Wales.  By  the  Hon.  Mrs.  William 
Grey.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

SANDWICH  ISLAND  NOTES.  By  a 
Hiiole.  With  Illustratious.  12mo,  Cloth, 
$150. 

JOURNAL  OF  AN  EXPEDITION  to  Ex- 
plore the  Course  and  Termination  of  the 
Niger.  With  a  Narrative  of  a  Voyage 
down  that  River  to  its  Termination. 
By  R.  and  J.  Lander.  Illustratious.  2 
vols.,  ISmo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

TRAVELS  OP  MUNGO  PARK.  With 
the  Account  of  his  Death,  from  the  Jour- 
nal of  Isaaco,  and  later  Discoveries  rela- 
tive to  his  lamented  Fate,  and  the  Ter- 
mination of  the  Niger.  ISmo,  Cloth, 
75  cents. 

LIFE  OF  BRUCE,  the  African  Traveler. 
By  Sir  F.  B.  Head.     ISmo,  Cloth,  75  cts. 

JOURNAL  OF  THE  DISCOVERY  OF 
THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  By 
John  IIanning  Speke,  Captain  H.  M. 
Indian  Army,  Fellow  and  Gold  Medalist 
of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  &c. 
With  Maps  and  Portraits  and  numerous 
Illustrations,  chiefly  from  Drawings  by 
Captain  Grant.  Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00  ; 
Sheep,  $4  50 ;  Half  Calf,  $6  25. 


Valuable  Books  of  Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure.      9 


WEST    INDIES. 


SANTO  DOMINGO,  Past  and  Present ; 
with  a  Glance  at  llayti.  By  Samuel 
Hazaud.  Map;?  and  Illustrations.  Crown 

Svo,  Cloth,  $8  50. 

AT  LAST:  a  Christmas  in  the  West  In- 
dies. By  CuAULEs  KiNGsi.Ev.  Illustra- 
tions.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

CAPTAIN  BRAND,  of  the  Centipede.  A 
Pirate  of  Eminence  in  the  West  Indies; 
his  Loves  and  Exploits,  together  with 
some  Account  of  the  Singular  Manner 
by  which  he  Departed  this  Life.  By 
Habuy  Gkingo  (H.  A.  Wise,  U.  S.  N.). 
With  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  00; 
Paper,  |1  50. 


THE  WEST  INDIES  AND  THE  SPAN- 
ISII  MAIN.  Bv  Antuony  Teollope. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

THE  ORDEAL  OP  FREE  LABOR  IN 
THE  BKITISH  WEST  INDIES.  By 
William  G.  Sewell.    r2nio,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

SHIPWRECK  OF  SIR  EDWARD  SEA- 
WARD, and  consequent  Discovery  of 
certain  Islands  in  the  Caribbean  Sea, 
with  Details  of  his  Residence  there,  and 
of  various  extraordinary  and  highly  in- 
teresting Events  of  his  Life.  Edited  by 
Miss  Jane  Portek.  ISmo,  Cloth,  lo 
cents. 


PACIFIC     OCEAN. 


THE  MALAY  ARCHIPELAGO :  the  Land 
of  the  Orang-Utan  and  the  Bird  of  Para- 
dise. A  Narrative  of  Travel,  1S54-G-2. 
With  Studies  of  man  and  Nature.  By 
Alfrkd  Klssel  Wallace.  With  Maps 
and  numerous  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo, 
Cloth,  $2  50. 

SOME  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  MUTINEERS 
OP  THE  BOUNTY  and  their  Descend- 
ants in  Pitcairn  and  Norfolk  Islands. 
By  Lady  Belcher.  IlUistratious.  12mo, 
Cloth,  $1  50. 

THE  EXPEDITION  TO  BORNEO  OP 
H.  M.  S.  Dido,  for  the  Suppression  of  Pir- 
acy; with  Extracts  from  the  Journal  of 
James  Brooke,  Esq.,  of  Sarawak,  Agent 
for  the  British  Government  in  Borneo. 
By  Captain  Uenp.y  Keppel,  R.N.  12mo, 
Cloth,  U  00. 

TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  PHILIP- 
PINKS.  By  Paul  de  la  Gironiere. 
Revised  and  Extended  by  the  Author 
expressly  for  this  Translation.  Illustra- 
tions.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

TYPEE;  a  Peep  at  Polynesian  Life,during 
a  Four  Months*  Residence  in  the  Marque- 
sas. Bv  Herman  Melville.  The  Revised 
Edition,  with  a  Sequel.  12nio,  Cloth, 
$150. 

LIFE  AND  ADVENTURES  IN  THE 
SOUTH  PACIFIC.  By  Jones.  Illus- 
trations.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 


NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA,  OREGON. 
AND  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 
By  CuARLKS  NoRTiiioFF,Author  of  "Cali- 
fornia: for  Health,  Pleasure,  and  Resi- 
dence," &c.  Profusely  Illustrated.  Svo, 
Cloth,  $2  50. 

THE  ISLAND  WORLD  OF  THE  PA- 
CIFIC: being  the  Personal  Narrative 
and  Results  of  Travel  through  the  Sand- 
wich or  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  other 
parts  of  Polynesia.  By  Rev.  H.  T.Ciiicev- 
ER.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

MARDI,anda  Voyage  thither.  By  Herman 
Melville.     2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

MOBY-DICK  ;  or.  The  Whale.  By  Her- 
man Melville.     12mo,  Cloth, $1  75. 

OMOO  :  a  Narrative  of  Adventures  in  the 
South  Seas.  By  Heemam  Melville. 
Vlmo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

PIERRE  ;  or.  The  Ambiguities.  By  Her- 
man Melville.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

REDBURN  ;  his  First  Voyage.  Being  the 
Reminiscences  of  the  Son-of-a-Geutle- 
man  in  the  Merchant  Service.  By  Her- 
man Melville.     12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

PITCAIRN'S  ISLAND  AND  ITS  IN- 
HABITANTS. With  an  Authentic  Ac- 
count of  the  Mutiny  of  the  Ship  Bounty, 
and  of  the  Subsequent  Fortunes  of  the 
Mutineers.  By  Sir  John  Bakkow,  F.R.S. 
ISmo,  Cloth,  75  cents. 


POLAR    SEAS    AND     REGIONS. 


ARCTIC  EXPERIENCES  :  containing 
Captain  George  E.  Tyson's  Wonder- 
ful Drift  on  the  Ice-Floe,  a  History  of 
the  Polaris  Expedition,  the  Cruise  of 
the  Tigris,  and  Rescue  of  the  Polaris 
Survivors.  To  which  is  added  a  Gen- 
eral Arctic  Chronology.  Edited  by  E. 
Vale  Blake.  With  Map  and  numerous 
Illustrations.    Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00. 


THE  ARCTIC  SEARCHING  EXPEDI- 
TION :  a  Journal  of  a  Boat  -  Voyage 
through  Rupert's  Land  and  the  Arctic 
Sea,  in  Search  of  the  Discovery  Ships 
under  Command  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 
With  an  Appendix  on  the  Physical  Ge- 
ography of  North  America.  By  Sir  Joun 
Riohautson,  C.B.,  F.R.S.  Illustrations. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  ."iO. 


lo    Valuable  Books  of  Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure. 


ARCTIC  RESEARCHES  and  Life  among 
the  Esquimaux:  Ijeiiig  the  Nan-ative 
of  ail  ExpediliDU  in  Searcli  of  Sir  Joiiii 
Franklin,  in  tlie  Years  ISOO,  ISGl,  and 
]SG2.  By  CiiABi.EB  Franois  Hall.  With 
Maps  and  Ilinstratious.  A  New  Edi- 
tion, beaiuifiilly  printed.  8vo,  Cloth, 
Beveled,  $5  00  ;  Half  Calf,  $T  25. 

VOYAGES  OP  DISCOVERY  AND  RE- 
SEARCH within  tlie  Arctic  Regions, 
from  tlie  Year  1S18  to  the  Present  Time 
(1840) ;  under  the  Command  of  the  sev- 
eral Naval  Officers  employed  by  Sea  and 
Land  in  Search  of  a  Northwest  Passage 
from  the  Athinlic  to  the  Pacific;  with 
two  Attempts  to  reach  the  North  Pole. 
Abridged  and  arranged  from  the  Official 
Narrative,  with  Occasional  Remarks. 
By  Sir  John  Baurow,  F.  U.  S.  Map. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  00. 

SEASONS  WITH  THE  SEA-HORSES; 
or,  Sporting  Adventures  in  the  Northern 
Seas.  By  James  Lamont,  F.G.S.  With 
Map  and  Illnstralions.   Svo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

THE  WHALE  FISHERY';  or.  Conversa- 
tions with  the  Children  about  the  Whale 
Fishery  and  the  Polar  Seas.  2  vols., 
18mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 


THE  LAND  OF  DESOLATION:  bein? 
a  Personal  Narrative  of  Observation  and 
Adventure  in  Greenland.  By  Isaac  I. 
Hayes,  M.D.,  Author  of  "The  Opeu 
Polar  Sea,"  .fee.  With  Illusiratious. 
I'iino,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

NARRATIVE  OP  AN  EXPEDITION 
TO  THE  POLAR  SEA,  in  tlie  Years 
1S20,  '21,  '22,  and  '23.  By  Admiral  Fi:b- 
DiNAND WnANGiiLL,RussiaD  Navy.  ISmo, 
Cloth,  75  cents.  i 

THREE  VOYAGES  for  the  Discovery  of 
a  Northwest  Passage  from  the  Atlantic 
to  the  Pacitic,  and'Nairative  of  an  At- 
tempt to  reach  the  North  Pole.  Bv  Sir 
W.  E.  Pakky,  R.N.  2  vols.,  ISmo,  Cloth, 
$1  50. 

LIVES  AND  VOYAGES  OP  DRAKE, 
CAVENDISH,  AND  DAMPIER  ;  in- 
cluding an  Introductory  View  of  the 
Earlier  Discoveries  in  the  South  Seas, 
and  the  History  of  the  Buccaneers. 
ISino,  Cloth,  75  cents. 

DISCOVERY  AND  ADVENTURE  IN 
THE  POLAR  SEAS  AND  REGIONS. 
By  Professors  Leslie  and  Jameson,  and 
Ht.GU  Murray.  Illustrations.  18mo, 
Cloth,  75  cents. 


AROUND    THE    WORL! 


AROUND  THE  WORLD.  By  Eihvart) 
D.  G.  Prime,  D.D.  With  numerous  Il- 
lustrations.    Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

VOYAGES  ROUND  THE  WORLD.  From 
the  Death  of  Captain  Cook  to  the  Pres- 
ent Time:  including  Remarks  on  the 
Social  Condition  of  the  Inhabitants  in 
the  Recently  Discovered  Countries,  their 
Progress  in  the  Arts,  &c.  ISmo,  Cloth, 
75  cents. 

AN  HISTORICAL  ACCOUNT  OF  THE 
CIRCUMNAVIGATION  OF  THE 
GLOBE,  and  of  the  Progress  of  Dis- 
covery in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  from  the 
Voyage  of  Magellan  to  the  Death  of 
Cook.  'Illustrations.  18mo,  Cloth,  75 
cents. 

WILD   SPORTS    OF   THE   WORLD:    a 

Jiook  of  Natural  History  and  Adventure. 
By  James  Gueenwood.  Illustrations. 
Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

ROUND  THE  WORLD:  inclitding  a  Resi- 
dence ill  Victoria,  and  a  Journey  by  Rail 
across  North  America.  By  a  Boy.  Ed- 
ited by  Samitel  Smiles.  Illustrations. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

STORIES  OF  THE  ISLAND  WORLD. 
By  Charles  Nordiioit.  Illustrations. 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  00. 

THE  LAST  TRAVELS  OP  IDA  PFEIF- 
FER:  inclusive  of  a  Visit  to  Madagascar. 
With  an  Autobiographical  MemoiV  of  the 
Author.  Translated  bv  H.  W.  Dploken. 
Steel  Portrait.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 


NARUATIVrC  OF  A  JOURNEY  ROUND 
THE  WOULD.  Comprising  a  Winter 
Passage  across  the  Andes  to  Chili ;  with 
a  Visit  to  the  Gold  Regions  of  California 
and  Australia,  the  South  Sea  Islands, 
Java,  &c.  By  P.  Gekbtaeckee.  12mo, 
Cloth,  fl  .50. 

A  LADY'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  ROUND 
THE  WORLD :  from  London  to  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  Borneo,  Java,  Sumatra, 
Celebes,  Ccram,the  Moluccas,  &c.,  Cali- 
fornia, Panama,  Peru,  Ecuador,  and  the 
United  States.  By  Ida  Pfeiffer.  12mo, 
Cloth,  $1  50. 

NIMROD  OP  THE  SEA  ;  or,  The  Ameri- 
can Whaleman.  By  William  j\I.  Davis. 
With  many  Illustrations.  r2mo,  Cloth, 
$2  00. 

VOY'AGE  OF  A  NATURALIST.  Jour- 
nal of  Researches  into  the  Natural  His- 
tory and  Geology  of  the  Countries  vis- 
ited during  the  Voyage  of  H.M.S.  Beagle 
round  the  World,  under  the  Cbnimand 
of  Captain  Fitzroy,  R.N.  Bv  Charles 
Darwin,  M.A.,  F.R.S.  2  vols.,  12mo, 
Cloth,  S2  00. 

THE  WHALE  AND  HIS  CAPTORS: 
or.  The  Whaleman's  Adventures  and 
the  Whale's  Biograjihy,  as  gathered  on 
the  Homeward  Cruise  of  the  Commodore 
Preble.  By  Rev.  H.  T.  Cheevee.  Illus- 
trations.    18mo,  Cloth,  $1  00. 

FORECASTLE  TOM;  or.  The  Landsman 
turned  Sailor.  By  Mrs. Mary  S.B.Dana. 
18mo,  Cloth,  75  cents. 


Valuable  Books  of  Exploration,  Iravel,  and  Adventure. 


II 


GREATER  BRITAIN:  a  Record  of  Travel 
in  English  speaking  Countries  during 
186G  and  ISOT.  ByCiiARt,i:ti  VVentwoktii 
Dii.KE.  Alaps  and  lilustratious.  12mo, 
Cloth,  $1  UU. 

PERILOUS  ADVENTURES;  or, Remark- 
able Instances  of  Courage,  Perseverance, 
and  Sufi'ering.  By  i{.  A.  Daveni-out. 
ISuu),  Cloth,  75  cents. 

TIIHOrGII  AND  THROUGH  THE 
TROPICS.  Thirty  Thousand  Miles  of 
Travel  in  Oceanica,  Australasia,  and  In- 
dia.  By  FitANK  Vince:<  r,  Jr.   (irt  I'rexs.) 

SEA-KINGS  AND  NAVAL  HEROES. 
A  Book  for  Boys.  By  Joun  G.  Eugau. 
Illustrations  by  C.  Keeiie  and  E.  C. 
Johnson.     lUmo,  Cloth,  $1  20. 

TRAVELS  IN  EUROPE  AND  THE 
EAST.  A  Year  in  England,  Scotland, 
Ireland,  Wales,  France,  Belgium,  Hol- 
land, Germany,  Audtria,  Italy,  Gieeco, 
Turkey,  Syria,  Palestine,  and  Egypt. 
By  Rev.  Samuel  IuE\/t;Lti  Pkime,  1).D. 
Illustrations.  2  vols.,  Large  12mo,  Cloth, 
$3  00;  Half  Calf,  $G  50. 

TRAVELS  AND  RESEARCHES:  being 
a  Condensed  Narrative  of  his  Journeys 
in  the  Eqniiu)clial  Regions  of  America, 
and  in  Asiatic  Russia;  together  wilii 
Analyses  of  liis  more  Important  In- 
vestigations, by  W.Macgili.ivrav,  A.M. 
Illustrations.     I'^mo,  Cloth,  To  cents. 


VOYAGES  OP  C A  PTAIN  COOK  ROUND 
THE  WORLD.  With  an  Account  of  his 
Life  during  the  Pievious  and  Interven- 
ing Periods,  by  Dr.  Kii'i>is,  F.R.S.  ISnio, 
Half  Roan,  tiO  cents. 

ODD  PEOPLIi::  being  a  Popular  Descrip- 
tion of  Singuiar  Races  of  Man.  By 
Captain  Mavisk  Reid.  Willi  lilustra- 
tious.   IGiuo,  Cloth,  75  cents. 

PERILS  OF  THE  SEA.  Being  Authentic 
Narratives  of  remarkable  aiul  affecting 
Disasters  upon  the  Deep.  Iluislratious. 
ISmo,  Cloth,  75  cents. 

LIVES  OP  CELEBRATED  TRAVEL- 
LERS. Containing  Memoirs  of  William 
de  Rubruquis,  Marco  Polo,  Il)n  Batiita, 
Leo  Alricanus,  Pietro  Delia  Valle,  Jeau 
Baptiste  Tavernier,  Francoise  Bernier, 
Sir  Jolin  Chardin,  Englebert  Kasmiifer, 
Heiiry  Maundrell,  Josejih  Pit  ton  de 
Tournefort,  Dv.  Thomas  Shaw,  Frederick 
Hasselquist,  Lady  Wortley  Alontague, 
Richard  Pococke,  John  Bell,  John  Led- 
yard,  George  Forster,  James  Bruce,  Jonas 
Hanway,  A'ntiniio  de  Ulloa,  Mungn  Park, 
Peter  Simon  Pallas,  Carsten,  Niebuhr, 
Choisseul-Gouftier,  John  Lewis  Burck- 
bardt,  Volney,  Edward  Daniel  Clark, 
Francoise  le  Vaillant,Belzoni, Dominique 
Vivant  Denon,  Reginald  Heber.  By 
Jajmes  A.  St.  John.  3  vols.,  ISmo,  Cloth, 
$2  25. 


Harper's  Magazii^e  axd  Weekly 

Contain  the  most  interesting  and  valuable  articles  of 
Exploration,  Travel,  and  Adventure. 

HARPER'S  MAOAZTNE,  HARPEH'S  WEEKLY,  or  HARPER'S  BAZAR  will  he 
tietit  for  oiie  year  to  ami  Subscriber  in  the  United  States  or  Canada,  POSTAGE 
PRI'IPAID  by  the  2)ublisher-",  on  receipt  »f  Fuur  hollars. 

HARPER'S    MAGAZINE,   HARPER'S   WEEKLY,   and    HARPER'S   BAZAR,  for 

one  year,  $10  00;   or  any  two  for  $7  00:    postage  free. 

A  Complete  Analytical  Index  to  tlie  first  Fifty  Vohimes  of  Harper's  Magazine  has 
just  been  ])iiblished,  rendering  available  for  reference  the  vast  and  varied 
wealth  of  infin-mation  which  constitutes  this  jieriodical  a  perfect  illustrated  lit- 
erary cyclopedia.    Svo,  Cloth,  $3  00;  Half  Calf,  $f>  25.    Sent  postage  prepaid. 

m)rSPENSABLiriK)0ls"1^0'TRA^^^^^^^ 


HARPER'S  HAND-BOOK  FOR  TR.^VELLERS  IN  EUROPE  AND  THE  EAST: 
being  a  Guide  tbrough  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  Prance,  Belgium,  Holland, 
Germany,  Italy,  Egyjit,  Syria,  Turkey,  Greece,  Switzerland,  Tyrol.'  Spain,  Russia, 
Denmark,  Norway,  and  Sweden.  By  W.  Pemhuoke  Fetripge.  \\"\\\\  Maps  and 
Plans  of  Cities,  "in  Three  Volumes.  12mo,  Leatlier,  Pockct-Bonk  form,  $3  00 
per  Vol.  ;  or,  the  Three  Volumes  in  One,  with  similar  binding,  ^7  00. 

HARPER'S  PHRASE-BOOK  ;  oi-,  Hand-Book  of  Travel-Talk  for  Travellers  and 
Schools.  Being  a  Guide  to  Conversation  in  English,  French,  German,  and  Italian, 
on  a  New  and  Imjiroved  Method.  Intended  to  accompany  "  Harper's  Hand-Book 
for  Travellers."  Bv  W.  Pemukoke  Fetuiugf.  assisted  liy  Professors  of  IloidRl- 
berg  University.  With  concise  and  explicit  Rules  fir  the  Pronounciatiou  of  the 
different  Languages.    Square  4to,  Flexible  Cloth,  |1  50. 


HARPER'S  CATALOGUE. 


Harper's  Catalogue  comprises  a  large  proportion  of  the  standard  and 
most  esteemed  works  in  English  and  Classical  Literature — comprehend- 
ing OVER  THREE  THOUSAND  VOLUMES — which  are  offered,  in  most  in- 
stances, at  less  than  one  half  the  cost  of  similar  productions  in  England. 

To  Librarians  and  others  connected  with  Colleges,  Schools,  &c.,  who 
may  not  have  access  to  a  trustworthy  guide  in  forming  the  true  estimate  of 
literary  productions,  it  is  believed  this  Catalogue,  with  its  classified  and 
analytical  Index,  will  prove  especially  valuable  for  reference. 

To  prevent  disappointment,  it  is  suggested  that,  whenever  books  can 
not  be  obtained  through  a  bookseller  or  local  agent,  applications  with 
remittance  should  be  addressed  direct  to  Harper  &  Brothers,  which  will 
receive  prompt  attention. 


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